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PRACTICAL TANNING 



PRACTICAL TANNING: 



A HANDBOOK 

OF 

MODERN PROCESSES, RECEIPTS, AND 
SUGGESTIONS 



TREATMENT OF HIDES, SKINS, AND PELTS 
OF EVERY DESCRIPTION. 



BY 

LOUIS A. FLEMMING, 

AMERICAN TANNER. 



PHILADELPHIA : 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., 

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS, 

810 Walnut Street. 

LONDON : 

CROSBY LOCKWOOD AND SON, 

7 Stationers' Hall Court, Ludoate Hill. 

1903 



^ 



THE LIBRARY GF 
CONGRESS, 


Two Copies 


Received 


APR 23 1903 


Copyright 


Entry 


cuss a/ 


XXe. No. 


COPY 


B, 



Copyright, by 

HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO., 

,1903. 



Printed by the 

WICKERSHAM PRINTING CO. 

53 and 55 North Queen Street, 

Lancaster, Pa., U. S. A, 








/3? 



PREFACE. 



Practical Tanning, here presented for the consideration and 
guidance of the Leather Industrials of the United States and 
foreign countries is distinctively an American up-to-date treatise; 
no English, French or German book having been consulted in its 
preparation. Furthermore, in it will be found nothing what- 
ever copied from any previously printed American book. It is 
what its title imports, "A Hand-Book of Modern Processes, 
Receipts and Suggestions for the Treatment of Hides, Skins and 
Pelts of Every Description." It is the result of the experience 
and study of the author and of those of many other practical 
men with whom it has been his good fortune to come into 
association and consultation. 

One special feature of the volume to which he would call 
attention is that of the chapters on the Patented Processes of 
Tanning, Tawing, Depilating and Bating. These patents, which 
are given with sufficient detail to be clearly understood, serve to 
indicate the aims and ends of the most progressive and most 
intelligent investigators among tanners and chemists in the 
direction of placing this great industry upon a scientific basis, 
and what has been accomplished in that direction. The 
patents, the author has in most cases given with proper reserve, 
and without actual endorsement; but they are all suggestive, 
and therefore worthy of examination and investigation. 

In writing this book the author has aimed to put before his 
readers information relating to the manufacture of many kinds 
of leather at once valuable and interesting. He makes no 
claim to infallibility nor to be above criticism. The book does 
not cover the entire field of leather manufacture; it does, how- 
ever, contain a large amount of practical information so pre- 
sented that the leather worker can readily understand it, and 
having made it a part of his mental capital can utilize it with 
benefit to himself and to the product of his skill. 

(v) 



Vi * V PREFACE. 

J 

Leather making as a trade cannot be wholly learned from a 
book; but a good book is an important aid to that end. Its 
value comes out only when the information in its pages is 
thoroughly assimilated and applied in practice. The author 
hopes that this one will be appreciated for its good qualities 
rather than be criticised for its short-comings. 

In conclusion he would only add, that as is the uniform 
practice of the publishers, they have provided the work with a 
copious table of contents as well as a very full index, which will 
render reference to any subject in it at once prompt, easy and 
satisfactory. Louis A. Flemming 

Hillsdale, Michigan, April 5, 1903. 



CONTENTS. 



CHAPTER I. 

SH"EEPSKINS. 



PAGE 

Wool-pulling — Pickled skins ; The first operation to which sheepskins 
are subjected; Close relations between the soaking process and the sub- 
sequent processes ; Time required for soaking ; Effects of too much 
soaking ............ 1 

How the best results are attained; Treatment of the pelts after soaking; 
Effect of heating; Wool-pulling with sulphide of sodium; Common 
method of using sulphide of sodium ....... 2 

Strength of the sulphide of sodium liquor; Applying the sulphide of 
sodium and lime ........... 3 

Length of time required for the action of the depilatory solution; Treat- 
ment of the skins after pulling ........ 4 

The liming process; Action of lime; Swelling property of a lime; Re- 
newal of the first lime; Mode of making a new lime; Length of time 
the skins should be left in the lime ....... 5 

Time required to lime sheepskins of average thickness; Addition of fresh 
lime; Sensitiveness of the skins whilst being passed through the pro- 
cesses preparatory to the actual process of tanning .... 6 

Effects of low liming and of over-liming; Use of sulphide of sodium in 
connection with lime; Cause of many of the imperfections met with in 
finished leather 7 

Removal of grease found in sheepskins; Object of the drenching process; 
The bran drench ........... 8 

Use of sour tan liquor; What the action of the bran drench is due to; 
Souring the drench ......... 9 

Another method of preparing and using the bran drench; Amount of 
drenching required by sheepskins ....... 10 

Drenching sheepskins by the use of animal and bird dung; Drenching 
with lactic acid ; Mode of using lactic acid ...... 11 

The pickling process; Composition of the liquor in which the skins are 
pickled, and length of time they should remain in it . . . .12 

Wool-pulling with the new XXX depilatory, patented . . . .13 

Advantages gained by the use of this patented depilatory; The sweating 
process ............ 14 

(vii) 



yiii CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CHAPTER II. 

The Manufacture of Chrome-tanned Sheep Leather. 

Preparation of sheepskins for chrome tanning; Removal of grease from 
sheepskins; Removing the acid from pickled skins; A very satisfactory 
method of tanning pickled sheepskins with one bath chrome liquors . 15 

Common method of drenching pickled sheepskins; Temperature of the 
drench; Effect of the whiting and salt 16 

Drenching in a solution of coal tar bate and sal-soda; A common method 
of chrome tanning sheepskins 17 

Principal use of sulphate of alumina; Preparation of a solution of tanning 
material; Test for ascertaining whether the skins are tanned through. 18 

Washing the skins; Tanning pickled skins without drenching; Mode of 
tanning pickled sheepskins without having the acid removed from 
them 19 

Another method of tanning pickled sheepskins . . . • . 20 

A new one-bath process of acid tanning and mode of carrying out this 



process. 



22 



Preparation of S. Z. solution and of S. K. solution; Tanning of sheep- 
skins with one-bath chrome liquors in paddle vats . . . .23 

Mode of handling the liquors; Necessity of using soft water; Quantity of 
tanning material required 24 

Test for ascertaining whether the skins are tanned; Tanning sheepskins 
in two-bath processes; Removal of the acids in the skins; Manner of 
carrying out the most commonly used process of two-bath tanning . 25 

Quantity of chromic acid required; Essential point in the first bath; 
Treatment of the skins after removal from the drum . . . .26 

Composition of the second bath; A process of two-bath tanning . . 27 

Finishing chrome-tanned sheepskins into glove leather; Coloring; Mor- 
dants used ............ 28 

Ox-blood is a very popular shade and how a good color can be obtained; 
A good shade of ox-blood ........* 29 

The various shades of brown and tan; Yellow glove leather; Mahogany 
shade 30 

A good fat-liquor; Another very good fat-liquor; A very practical method 
of preparing chrome-tanned sheepskins with sumac . . . .31 

Aniline dves on this leather ......... 32 

Economy to use only the best dyes; Difficulties encountered in coloring 
chrome-tanned leather; Method of dissolving aniline dyes; Preferred 
method of dyeing; Brand of aniline colors referred to . . . .33 

Ox-blood shade; Very desirable tan shades ...... 34 

Sulfamine-dyed sheepskins; Yellow chrome-tanned glove leather; Rich 
dark ox-blood; Glazing chrome-tanned sheepskins — colored; Clearing 
the grain of grease .......... 35 

Liquor for a clear, bright finish; Finishing the skins into black shoe 
leather 36 



CONTENTS. IX 

PAGE 

Increasing the solidity and firmness of the leather; Coloring the flesh blue 
or purple; Blacking the grain; Preparation of a good striker to develop 
the color 37 

Application of glycerin; Clearing the grain of greasy matter; A good 
glazing liquor for sheepskins 38 

Trouble with chrome-tanned sheep leather, and prevention; Cause of 
defect in leather; Good method of preventing the trouble; Bath of 
sumac or palmetto extract; Decoction of sumac leaves . . . .39 

Mordanting chrome-tanned sheepskins .40 

CHAPTER III. 

SHEEPSKINS. 
ALTJM, OIL AND NAPA PROCESSES. 

Processes of alum tawing; Removal of the animal grease; Removing the 
acid used as a pickle; Mode of obtaining an ordinary quality of leather . 41 

Preparation of an extra fine quality of alum leather . . . . .42 

A process of white tawing, recently patented in Germany; Preparation of 
very soft and tough white leather ....... 43 

Method of tawing for making sheepskins and lambskins into very soft, 
strong glove leather 44 

Use of Turkey -red oil in the tanning of sheep and lambskins into glove 
leather; Combination process of alum and chrome . . . .45 

Preparation of a very good fat-liquor for this class of stock; Sheep and 
lambskins oil-tanned; Good method of washing out the lime . . 46 

Process of oil-tanning; Process of heating the leather; Removal of sur- 
plus oil 47 

Preparation of very soft, tough glove leather; Mode of oil-tanning sheep 
and lambskins ... . . . . . . . . .48 

Tanning the skins by a combination of the oil with the salts of alumina; 
The making of Napa leather; Origin of the Napa tannage; Classes of 
leather made ........... 49 

Original process of making Napa leather, and modifications of it . . 50 

Coloring black Napa; Manner of using direct blue paste; Preparation of a 
good blacking for this class of leather; Dampening the skins down for 
staking; Buffing the skins; Finishing black Napa leather . . .51 

Process for the production of very soft, tough leather . . . .52 

Another process of preparing sheepskins for linings, bindings and similar 
purposes; To produce quickly and cheaply a soft, tough leather from 
sheepskins suitable for gloves and mittens; Preparation of the mixture 
for this purpose ........... 53 

Process especially adapted to sheepskin fleshers to be used in the manu- 
facture of gloves, for bindings, etc. ; Preparation of the fluid for this 
purpose 54 

Handling the skins in the early processes of the beamhouse . . .55 

Tanning of sheepskin fleshers by any of the chrome processes . . .56 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTEK IV. 

Wool Skins. 

the tanning of shearlings, sheep pelts for mittens. rugs and 
similar purposes. 

PAGE 

A good method of tanning the skins ....... 57 

To color the skins; Another method; Preparation of a tanning solution . 58 

Method of tanning sheep pelts with the wool on 59 

Cheap and simple method of preparing sheep pelts with the wool on .60 
Effect of salt and alum used in tanning sheep pelts; Handling the pelts 
during tanning; Scouring the wool after tanning . . . . .61 

Treatment of greasy skins; Tanning the skins in bark extract . . .62 
Draining and oiling the skins; Mode of obtaining a desirable shade of 
brown; Production of a light golden color ...... 63 

To bleach the wool on alum-tanned sheepskins; A very simple and effec- 
tive method of removing the grease from sheep pelts; Manner of very 
cheaply tanning wool-skins ......... 64 

Another method somewhat speedier; Wool -washing soap and its prepara- 
tion ... . . . . . . . . . . .65 

A very satisfactory method of tanning sheepskins with wool on, shearlings, 
etc. ............. 66 

Most important requisite in dyeing the wool; Best way to scour the 
alumed pelts; Mode of obtaining a seal brown . . . . .67 

Method for accomplishing the bleaching of sheep pelts, lambskins and 
goatskins tanned with the wool and hair on ..... 68 

CHAPTER V. 

Sheepskins. 

bark, extract, and chamois tanning. 

Use of various tannages; A good method of using palmetto extract; 
Tanning of pickled skins ......... 69 

Mode of obtaining a dull finish; A combination tannage; Preparation of 
very excellent leather by combining a chrome and a vegetable tannage; 
Use of palmetto extract to supplement the chrome tannage . . .70 

Removing the acid from pickled skins; Use of palmetto extract in com- 
bination with quebracho; The coloring and finishing of vegetable 
tanned skins; Preparation of sheepskins for coloring . . . .71 

Effect of the use of hard water: Cleanliness a very important element . 72 

Skins that have acquired a dark shade from the tannage should be given 
the dark shades of dye; Lactic acid a very good article to use in color- 
ing sheepskins 73 

Sorting the skins; Applying the dye and finishing the leather; Various 
methods employed .......... 74 



CONTENTS. XI 

PAGE 

Drumming the leather in warm sumac liquor before coloring it with ani- 
line dyes; Preparation of the coloring bath 75 

Desirable shades; Ox-blood; Desirable chocolate shade; Desirable shade 
of green .......••••• 76 

Use of logwood in dyeing bark tanned leather black; A good black on 
bark and extract tanned sheepskins 77 

Skivers and mode of making this class of leather; Preparation of a good 
drench for this class of goods . . . •■ . • • .78 

Various materials used in tanning skivers; Necessity of careful handling 

of the stock during tanning 79 

Tannage for a common grade of leather; Coloring of sumac-tanned skins. 80 

Numerous ways of finishing skivers; Use of embossing machines; Special 
value of aniline colors for the maker of this class of leather; A good 
process of tanning ' 81 

Chamois leather and its production; Kemoving the lime; Treatment of 
the skins; Eemoval of surplus water; Application of oil . • .82 

Process of heating; Effect of insufficient and of overheating; Eemoval of 
the oil; Finishing processes • .83 

Varying methods of treating the skins; Preparation of chamois leather 
by passing the prepared skins through a twenty-five per cent. Turkey- 
red oil solution . . . . . . . . . .84 

CHAPTER VI. 

Goatskins, 
beamhotjse work. pbeparing the skins for tanning. 

Object of the soaking and softening process; Freeing dry-salted skins from 
salt; Softening dried skins; Use of solutions of chemicals to hasten the 
soaking and softening . . 86 

Serious danger in connection with the soaking process; Good rule to be 
observed in soaking; Damage resulting from heating; Importance of 
guarding against heating ......... 87 

The liming process; Office of any material used upon raw skins in prepar- 
ing them for tanning into leather; Use of red arsenic in connection 
with lime; Preparation of a new lime with red arsenic. . . .88 

Preparation of a good lime; Use of red arsenic and sulphide of sodium in 
conjunction with lime . . . . • • , ■ .89 

Very good results obtained from the use of sulphide of sodium and lime; 
Various methods of using sulphide of sodium; Practice when it is de- 
sirable to save the hair .......•• 90 

Mixing lime with the sulphide of sodium; Slacking the lime . . .91 

Application of the mixture of lime and sulphide of sodium; Further 
plumping of the skins ......•■•• 92 

Gathering limes; Placing the skins in the first lime; Treatment of the 
skins in the lime; Process with the use of paddle vats. . .93 



Xll CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Bating or puring of goatskins ......... 94 

Essential qualities of goat leather at the present time; Production of 
these qualities; Distinct actions of lime upon raw skins; Effect of the 
use of lime alone upon goatskins ........ 95 

Effect of red arsenic upon the grain; Bates and bating; Materials used 
for this purpose; Pigeon and dog dung; On what the efficacy of manure 
bate depends ........... 96 

Preparation of manure bate; Avoidance of stains and burns; Some dis- 
turbing influences in bating ........ 97 

Necessity of thoroughly cleansing goatskins; Further treatment after the 
skins have been pured in the manure bate ...... 98 

The bran drench as applied to goatskins; On what the efficacy of this 
process depends; Preparation of the drench 99 



CHAPTER VII. 
The Chrome-Tanning of Goatskins. 

The original and most commonly used two-bath process, and practical 
method of carrying out this process ; Preliminary pickle . . . 101 

Composition of the first bath of this process; Another method of giving 
the skins the chrome liquor .... .... . 102 

Composition of the second bath of the process; A new process of two-bath 
chrome-tanning ........... 103 

A common process of tanning goatskins with the one-bath chrome liquors 104 

Tanning of goatskins directly after the drenching and washing with the 
one-bath chrome liquors, without the use of the sulphate of alumina 
and salt 105 

Preparation of good leather by tawing the skins in the solution of sulphate 
of alumina and salt; Another good method of tanning the skins . . 106 

A method of tanning goatskins with the one-bath process . . . 107 

Another satisfactory method of tanning the pickled goatskins; A new pro- 
cess of acid tanning .......... 109 

S. Z. solution and the S. K. solution, and their composition . . . 110' 

Chrome-tanning alum-tanned goatskins; Preparation of very fine kid 
leather; The chrome part of this process Ill 

Suggestions and precautions in the making of light leather by any chrome 
process of tanning; Advantage gained by sorting the skins; Advisability 
of the use of a liberal quantity of salt in the tanning liquor . . . 112 

Great nicety of proportions required for two-bath processes; Manipulation 
of one-bath liquors when used in paddle vats; Strength of liquor used . 113 

Use of tanning material that is left in the bath; Length of time required 
for tanning skins in drums; Fat-liquoring ...... 114 

Sorting the tanned skins before being fat-liquored; Certain defects and 
their correction; Cause and prevention of an open porous grain; Pre- 
vention of a gray bottom on black leather . . . . . .115 



CONTENTS. xnl 



PAGE 



Flanky goatskins; Cause of a faulty condition of the flanks; Injury to the 
skins by prolonged drumming • ' 

Coarse, rough grain along the necks and shoulders of goatskins and how 
this defect may be overcome; Necessity of very carefully handling the 
cheaper grades of goatskins 

Treatment of goatskins in a hot bath of sumac; Effect of the use of exces- 
sive quantities of salt in chrome-tanning 



CHAPTER VIII. 

The Finishing of Chrome-Tanned Goatskins into Colored and Black, 
Geazed and Dull Leather. 

A number of processes involved in the finishing of goatskins into colored 
or black leather; Dyeing the grain side of the leather black . . .119 

Manner of grain blacking; Dyes used _ 

Method of getting a blue flesh with nigrosine; Preparation of a good liquor 
or striker; Accomplishment of fat-liquoring and grain-blacking in one 

.. , 121 

operation ...-•••• . , . 

Dyeing in dye boxes; The use of permanganate of potash m coloring 
leather; Methods of applying the permanganate of potash . . .122 

Advantages resulting from this process 

Methods of coloring skins after they have been treated with permanganate 
of potash; Process patented by W. N. Norris. Princeton, N. J.; Color- 
ing chrome-tanned goatskins with aniline dyes . . • . . 124 

Washing the skins; Use of sumac as a tanning material in coloring 
chrome-tanned goatskins; Another method of preparing the skins for 

, . . 125 

coloring . 

Necessity of coloring chrome-tanned skins before they become dry; Use 
of fustic as a mordant or base for aniline dyes upon chrome-tanned 

goatskins 

Palmetto extract as a mordant; Clearing the grain of grease . . • 1^' 

Practical working directions for dyeing chrome-tanned goatskins; Mor- 
danting the skins; Necessity of knowing the quantity of dye required. 128 

Experiments on a small scale; Ox-blood shade; A dark rich ox-blood 
shade; A correct shade of ox-blood 

Production of a good ox-blood shade; Browns; Desirable chocolate 

brown 

Various shades of brown; Tan shades; Increase of the solidity and firm- 
ness of the skins . . • ' 

Results obtained in the coloring process to a great extent influenced and 
determined by the methods employed in the processes through which 
the skins have been worked previous to coloring; Necessity of thor- 
oughly soaking and softening goatskins before they are depilated or 
limed 



XIV CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Necessity of exercising care in handling the skins during the processes of 

the beam house; Cleansing of lime ....... 133 

Sorting the skins according to texture and quality; Results obtained in 

the coloring process largely dependent on the quality of the water used; 

Effect of very hard water; Softening of hard water . . . . 1 34 
Dissolving aniline dyes;Coloring chrome-tanned goatskins with sulfamine 

dyes; Practical working directions for getting several very desirable 

shades with sulfamine dyes; Browns and dark tans .... 135 
Dark chocolate; Chocolate shade; Formulas useful in getting light shades 

of tan; Ox-blood shade . . . . . . . ... 136 

Various shades of green; Fat-liquoring; The process of fat-liquoring . 137 
Treatment of the skins after the coloring operations are completed; 

Preparation of a very good fat-liquor . . . . . . . 1 38 

Striking out; Working the skins soft . . . . . . .139 

Glazing and finishing; Seasonings used; Clearing the grain of greasy 

matter and solution for this purpose; Seasoning on black leather . 140 

Seasoning for glazing colored leather; Application of a light coat of oil; 

A process for kid-glove leather . . . . . . .141 

Preparation of kid-glove leather by tawing; Preparation for tanning of 

skins from which the grain has been removed after liming . . . 142 
Essential qualities of glove leather . . . . . . . .143 

CHAPTER IX. 

DONGOLA AND TnDIA-TaNNED GoAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 
DONGOLA TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 

Purposes to which dongola tannage is especially applicable; Composition 
of dongola tannage; Soaking; Sheep pelts and their treatment . . 144 

Soaking goatskins; Preparing the skins for tanning; Process of liming . 145 

Drenching the skins; Preparation of the bran drench .... 146 

Use of lactic acid in the preparation of both classes of skins; Pickling the 
skins; Preparation of a good pickle; The tanning process; Composition 
of the tanning liquor ......... 147 

Another dongola liquor for both goat and sheepskins; Peculiar and dis- 
tinctive qualities of palmetto extract ....... 148 

Production of a leather possessing some of the qualities of both chrome 
and vegetable-tanned stock; Fat-liquoring and currying goatskins . 149 

Preparation of a very good fat -liquor for combination-tanned skins; Fat- 
liquoring sheepskins; Moistening back the leather before dyeing . 150 

Clearing the grain of grease; Coloring the flesh ..... 151 

Blacking the grain; Composition of the grain blacking; Application of 
the blacking; Application of the striker, and its composition . . 152 

Coloring the flesh blue; Clearing the grain for colors; Finishing the 
leather 153 

The coloring and finishing of India-tanned skins; Betanning with sumac. 154 



CONTENTS. XV 

PAGE 

Alum, salt and gambier liquor; Treatment of the skins for black leather. 155 

Use of logwood and borax; Treatment for very light and fancy shades; 
Clearing the grain of the leather when greasy; Use of Turkey-red or 
alazarine oils * 

Another process for finishing India goat and sheepskins; Application of 
a solution of formic aldehyde . . • • ■ 

Method for the improvement of imperfectly tanned skins . . .158 

CHAPTEE X. 
Patented Processes of Tanning and Tawing. 
Patented "method of tawing" (by Messrs. Dolly and Crank) for the 
final finishing of East India kips, goatskins, basils, and white leather, 

and the improvement of imperfectly tanned skins 159 

A particular case which serves to illustrate the steps involved. . . 160 
Variation in the amount of solution employed; Time required. . . 161 
Temperature of the bath; Improvement of tanned or imperfectly tanned 

skins and hides 

Effects produced on these skins; Hastening of the action of the natural 
tannins as introduced into the skin; Effect of the peculiar action of 

formic aldehyde upon the fibres of the skin 163 

Special advantage afforded by this process; Property of formic aldehyde 
of fixing the collogen and other gelatinous constituents of the skin; 
Sulpho-compounds or their mixture with fats and oils; Investigations 

of Armand Miiller, of New York i64 

Benefit derived from the use of these oils; Production of the oils or sul- 
pholeates; Examples of the methods of using the sulpholeates for tan- 
ning leather 

Alum tawing with Turkey-red oils 1D ° 

Oil-tanning or chamoising; Object of this process of alum tawing . . 167 
Preparation of the solution; First step in the process; Preparation of the 
second bath . . . • • • • • • * ' ' 

The use of formic aldehyde as a tanning agent; Preparation of the skins 
for the process; Treatment of the skins with the formic aldehyde in the 

form of a solution 

Use of the formic aldehyde in a gaseous state 17 ° 

A French process by the use of which, it is claimed, that the cohesion of 

the fibres is destroyed and putrefaction is prevented . . . .171 
Process, patented by Chas. Knees, Oshawa, Canada, for which it is 
claimed that it makes leather that is waterproof, elastic, pliable, heat 

and frost -proof ' ' 

New method for belt, shoe and leather laces, patented by James C. Mc- 

Connell '174 

Preparation of the stuffing mixture ■ 

Process with bark liquor, saltpetre, alum and glauber salt, patented by 
J. W Hitt, Lisle, N. Y 17b 



XVI CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Process of tanning which consists of the use of an antiseptic tanning com- 
position, patented by Julius Engelke, Cincinnati, O. . . . . 176 
Process of rapid tanning, patented by John Hoelck, Chicago, Ills. . . 179 
Another process of tanning hides somewhat similar to the foregoing . 181 
A composition of matter with processes of tanning ..... 182 
A process of tanning which has for its object the treating of hides and 

skins in such a manner as to prevent them from becoming hard . . 183 
A process which has for its object the providing of a method of tanning 
leather whereby the hides are rendered soft and pliable, patented by 

G. W. Hersey, Empire, Wis 184 

Process of manufacturing and finishing leather which is adapted for the 
use of vamps and tops of shoes, patented by C. E. and H. A. Lappe, 

Pittsburg, Pa 185 

Rapid process of drum tanning, patented by Jacques Durio, Turin, Italy. 187 
Another rapid process of drum tanning, invented by S. and G. Durio, 

Turin, Italy 191 

Practical application of the original Schultz two-bath process . . . 193 
Description of another process discovered and patented by Schultz . . 196 
Tanning of skins according to the Zahn process ..... 197 
Treatment if the leather is to be colored fancy shades .... 198 
Description of an improved process [of chrome-tanning, patented by W. 

M. Norris, Princeton, N. J 199 

Advantage of this method of tanning ....... 201 

Reducing with hydrogen dioxide when skins are saturated with a chro- 
mate, patented by Samuel P. Sadtler, Philadelphia, Pa. . . . 202 

One of the various processes used to accomplish the changing of the 
chromic acid in skins into chromic oxide, patented by S. Chadwick, 

Philadelphia, Pa 205 

Method of tawing for the making of chrome leather, patented by H. Ende- 

mann, Brooklyn, N. Y 206 

One-bath process of chrome tanning ....... 208 

Tanolin ( the Martin Dennis process) . . . . . . . 210 

Process of chrome tanning which produces leather that possesses the good 
qualities of both alum and chrome leather, patented by Geo. W. Adler, 

Philadelphia, Pa 213 

Tanning of skin? with a liquor composed of whiting, salt, chrome, alum, 
saltpetre and muriatic acid; Another one-bath process for which water- 
proof qualities are claimed, patented by Joseph W. Smith, Girard, Ohio. 216 
A simple one-bath liquor; Another interesting one-bath tanning liquor 
known as chromine, manufactured under patents by The Eureka Tan- 
nage Co., Philadelphia, Pa 218 

A liquor useful in one-bath chrome-tanning called Progress Tan Liquor . 221 
Vacrome, a single-bath mineral-tanning agent, made by the Vacuum Oil 

Co., Rochester, N. Y 223 

Preparation of liquors with the use of chrome-alum that have given good 
results when used upon light skins; Preparation of liquor for tanning 
skins ............. 225 



CONTENTS. XV11 

CHAPTER XI. 
Deerskins. 



PAGE 



Removing the hair from deerskins; Mixture used for the purpose . .227 
Object of liming the skins; Removing the grain of the skins; Various 
ways of tanning the skins; A process which produces good results upon 

deerskins 228 

Another process that results in soft, tough leather . . . . . 229 
Manner of tanning the skins; Composition of a liquor in which deerskins 

may be satisfactorily tanned 230 

Tawing with sulphate of alumina 231 

An old-fashioned and very simple method of tanning deerskins . .232 
Special adaptability of the chrome methods of tanning to deerskins; Pick- 
ling the skins; Tanning without pickling 233 

A good method of chrome-tanning the skins " 234 

Two-bath processes for tanning deerskins .235 

A somewhat crude process of tanning deerskins in use among the Indians 236 
Oil or chamois-tanning deerskins; Removing the lime from the skins; 

Oiling and beating the skins 237 

Process of heating; Effects of too high and of insufficient heating; Bleach- 
ing the skins; Various methods of handling the skins .... 238 
Process for making very soft, tough leather of deerskins . . . .239 

CHAPTER XII. 

Patented Methods of Depilating. 
Methods of using new XXX Depilatory, patented; Strength of the solu- 
tion used ^ 41 

Preparation of the second lime; Handling the slats while liming . .242 

Treatment of light hair skins when the hair is not to be saved, and when 
it is to be saved 243 

Use of new XXX Depilatory upon hides intended for sole leather; 
Methods of unhairing 244 

Treatment of skins intended for various kinds of leather .... 245 

Plumping or swelling of hides intended for splitting after unhairing with 
depilatory water ■ 246 

Treatment of skins intended for tough upper leather if no value is placed 
upon the hair; Treatment of horse hides; An interesting process for 
preparing hides and skins for tanning invented and patented by John 
and Edward Pullman, London, England 247 

Mixture of sulphide of sodium and chalk, or whiting, proposed for use in 

, . . 94Q 

unhairing 

Process known as the Pierson and Moor process, patented . . .250 



XV111 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XIII. 

Patented Processes of Bating. 

PAGE 

German patented process of bating hides and skins and swelling them; 
Use of the sulfonic acids of the cresols as a bate; Employment of a 
mixture of the cresol sulfonic acid with varying quantities of free sul- 
phuric acid 252 

Mode of obtaining cresol sulfonic acids; Preparation of the bate; Anti- 
septic property of cresol sulfonic acid ....... 253 

Process of bating by the use of a compound solution of sulphuric acid, 
borax and glauber salt, patented by N. Wilson, Becket, Mass. . . 254 

Bating with potatoes and yeast, process patented by William Oetlinger, 
Philadelphia, Pa 255 

The Norris new solid bate, patented by W. N. Norris, Princeton, N. J. 256 

Bating with naphthaline sulphuric acids, patented by C. S. Hull and 
P. S. Burns, Boston, Mass 257 

Advantages resulting from the use of the naphthaline sulphuric acids; 
The use of coal-tar bate . . ..... . 258 

Preparation of the bating solution ........ 259 

An interesting patented process of bating, invented by Chas. W. Koch, 
Milwaukee, Wis 260 

Patented process for the purpose of neutralizing lime in hides, skins and 
glue stock by means of carbonic acid gas, invented by Chas. W. Cooper, 
Brooklyn, N. Y 261 

Process of bating in which bichromate of potash is used, patented by 
Henry Schlegel, Lapeer, Mich 262 

CHAPTER XIV. 

The Manufacture of Calfskin Leather. 

Beam-house processes; Various ways of tanning and finishing calfskins. 264 
Grading and classification of green calfskins; Grading as to qualities; Sub- 
division to weights .......... 265 

Soaking process ........... 266 

Effects of soaking for a long time; Injurious effect of salt upon becoming 
dissolved in the water; Putrefaction in old soaks. .... 267 

A good method of soaking salted skins; Use of borax in the soaking pro- 
cess ...... 268 

The essential thing to be accomplished in the preparation of calfskins for 
any chrome process; A popular process of preparing calfskins for tan- 
ning by chrome methods . . ■ . . . . . . . 269 

Various rules for preparing the limes ....... 270 

Various ways of using sulphide of sodium 271 

Bating processes as applied to calfskins; The bran drench . . . 273 



CONTENTS. XIX 

PAGE 

Very good results obtained by the use of lactic acid; Preparation of the 

drench 275 

Drenching in a pin-mill drum; Advantages of lactic acid. . . . 276 

Another method of using bran for deliming the skins; Manure bating . 277 

CHAPTER XV. 

Calfskins and Chrome Processes. 

Different ways of tanning calfskins with the two-bath acid process; Solu- 
tion for the first bath in which the skins may be tanned by being 
drummed ............ 279 

Application of the various methods of tanning goatskins with one-bath 
processes in the same manner to calfskins . ..... 280 

Striking out, pressing and shaving the skins; Black chrome-tanned calf- 
skins; Dyeing the flesh side of black chrome leather .... 281 

Advantage of using the powdered products of logwood; Use of logwood 
paste, and of hemolin .......... 282 

Use of blue nigrosine for obtaining a very desirable blue flesh ; Prepara- 
tion of a good staining liquor; Most simple and easily -prepared stain . 283 

Practice in staining, fat-liquoring and dyeing calfskins; Preferred method 
of operation; Application of the grease ...... 284 

Emulsion for fat-liquoring light calfskins intended for glazed, dull or 
boarded finish; Emulsion for heavy calfskins 285 

Manipulation of the leather at the end of fat-liquoring .... 286 

Grain blacking; Logwood for blacking the grain; Preparation of a good 
striker 287 

Preparation of a good iron striker ........ 288 

Manipulation of the leather after the oiling operation ; Preparation of a 
seasoning suitable for calfskins ........ 289 

Another formula; Colored chrome-tanned calfskins; Eetanning with pal- 
metto extract ........... 290 

Use of sumac in place of palmetto; Preparation of the skins with sumac. 291 

Use of extract of fustic as a mordant ....... 292 

Directions which will be found of practical use to any one attempting to 
color chrome-tanned calfskins; Formulas for obtaining very satisfactory 
shades of dark wine color, commonly called ox-blood upon skins re- 
tanned or mordanted with tanning extracts ...... 293 

Light tan shades; Use of sulfamine dyes upon chrome-tanned calfskins . 294 

Fat-liquoring ............ 295 

CHAPTER XVI. 

Calfskins— Vegetable and Combination Tanned. 
Palmetto extract and its use for tanning . . . . . . 297 

Fat-liquor for this tannage; Hemlock, quebracho, gambier and other 
tannages ............ 298 



XX CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Qualities of leather made with gambier; Combination of gambier with a 
chrome or mineral process; Retanning calfskins with palmetto extract. 299 

Tanning skins in liquors made up of palmetto and hemlock or other ex- 
tracts; Retanning chrome leather with gambier or palmetto . . 300 

Handling of one-bath chrome liquors; Hemlock or combination liquors 
for calfskins and kips; A good dongola liquor ..... 301 

To fat-liquor combination and vegetable-tanned calfskins . . . 303 

Other fat liquors; Coloring and finishing of vegetable and combination 
tanned calfskins ........... 304 

Solution for a blue flesh; Modes of obtaining a good blue flesh, and a 
yellow flesh ........... 305 

Dyeing leather black upon the grain ....... 306 

Recipes for strikers which are used to develop the color , 307 

Dull finish and glazed finish; Gambier, palmetto and combination-tanned 
calfskins 308 

Preparation of the skins for any shade of color; Preparing the skins by 
the use of tartar emetic and antimonine ...... 309 

Aniline dyes on vegetable-tanned stock ....... 310 



CHAPTER XVII. 

Calfskins Tanned fob Glove and Mitten Purposes. 

Alum process; Preparation of the skins; Preparation of the tanning liquor. 311 
Process for making good leather ........ 312 

Preparation of soft and glove leather from calfskins .... 313 

Making glove leather of calfskin fleshers 314 

A simple method of tanning calfskins; Essential qualities of glove leather. 315 
Limes and their preparation ......... 316 

Advantages of using sulphide of sodium and red arsenic; Pickling calfskins. 317 
Making calfskin glove leather by a one-bath chrome process . . . 318 
Other processes of chrome tanning; Coloring chrome-tanned calfskins for 

glove leather 319 

Preparation of very soft and nearly white glove leather by treating the 

6kins to a warm bath of sumac; Process of oil-tanning calfskins to make 

exceedingly soft and durable leather 320 

Oils used and method of oil-tanning 321 

Bleaching the skins; Use of yellow ochre; Other processes for soft and 

tough leather ........... 322 

Other oil processes; Yellow calfskin oil leather 323 

Good fat-liquor for this class of leather 324 



CONTENTS. XXI 

CHAPTEE XVIII. 

Tanning Furs and Hair Skins. 

PAGE 

Soaking and softening the raw skins; Modes of tanning the skins . . 325 

A process for hair skins and hides for robes 327 

The tanning of hides for robes, coats, etc. ...... 329 

Alum and salt process ... . . . . . . . . 330 

Dressing or cutting down to a light substance ...... 331 

A good method of retanning the hides; A combination liquor of quebracho 

and hemlock extract 332 

Softening the stock; Dyeing with ursol dyes ...... 333 

Proportions of the mordanting materials 334 

CHAPTER XIX. 

Kangaroo Leather. 

Characteristics of the skin of the kangaroo; Softening the skins . . 335 
Depilating the skins; Process for this purpose if the hair is not to be 

saved 336 

Liming kangaroo skins in arsenic limes ....... 337 

Bating the skins and various methods of bating and drenching . . 338 
Gambier process for kangaroo skins ........ 339 

Combination process .......... 340 

Preparation of kangaroo leather of remarkably fine texture; Combination 

of alum and chrome processes ........ 341 

One-bath chrome process; Other one-bath processes .... 342 

Use of the two-bath process ......... 343 

Blacking chrome-tanned kangaroo ........ 344 

Preparation of a good striker to develop the black on the grain . . 345 
Preliminary preparation of chrome-tanned kangaroo leather to receive 

any shade of color or black; Sumac treatment; Palmetto treatment . 347 
Treatment of gambier, palmetto and combination -tanned kangaroo leather 

after tanning; Application of fat-liquors ...... 348 

Treatment of the leather when it is to be colored yellow on the flesh side . 349 
Mode of obtaining a blue or purple back; Treatment of the leather for a 

dull finish 350 

On what a great deal of the success attained in coloring the tanned leather 

depends; Preparation of the leather for coloring when the grain is 

greasy as well as cloudy ......... 351 

Seasonings upon both chrome and vegetable-tanned leather . . . 352 



XX11 CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XX. 

Methods of Bleaching Leather. 

PAGE 

Retanning the skins in sumac before bleaching ; Various methods of 
bleaching . . . . . . . . . . . . 353 

Mode of lightening the color of dark tanned leather . . . 354 

Bleaching hemlock-tanned sole-leather ....... 357 

Advantages of this mode of bleaching over the ordinary process . . 358 

CHAPTER XXI. 
Preparing Heavy Hides for Tanning. 

Condition in which the hides are received ; Soaking process . . . 360 
Object of changing the water; Time required for soaking .... 361 

Effects of careless soaking ; Soaking green-salted hides ; Injury to the 
stock by heating ........... 362 

Soaking dry or flint hides ......... 363 

Agents employed for hastening tbe soaking; Danger of putrefaction. . 364 
Various methods of soaking dry hides ....... 365 

Methods of preparing dry hides for tanning after they have been soaked; 
Use of sulphide of sodium and red arsenic to overcome the objection- 
able features of lime; Preparation of the hides for soft and pliable 
leather. ............ 366 

Preparation of a good lime . ........ 367 

A good method to follow in liming the hides ...... 368 

Strengthening the lime with sulphide of sodium; Best method of liming. 369 
Importance of the bating process; Use of manures for bating; Lactic acid 

for bating 370 

Cause of dark and brittle spots upon the grain of leather made by a vege- 
table process ........... 371 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Side Leathers for Shoe Purposes and Methods of Tanning Them. 

Various processes of tanning; Tanning with gambier .... 372 
Running the leather in a drum with a solution of alum and salt . . 373 
Palmetto extract, and a good method of tanning the sides in palmetto 

liquor 374 

Quebracho, its qualities and its use . . '. . ... 375 

Derivation of the name quebracho; Extract from the wood of the quebracho 

tree 376 

Important point to be observed in using quebracho extract; The use of 

the barkometer ........... 377 



CONTENTS. XX111 

PAGE 

Color of leather produced by quebracho; Best results obtained with que- 
bracho extract; Ketanning with gambier or palmetto .... 378 

Composition of the dongola tannage; Combination process of gambier and 
quebracho ............ 380 

Preparation of a good dongola liquor ....... 381 

Strength of tanning liquors; Chrome-tanned side leather. . . . 382 

Bating process; Use of manures and of lactic acid for bating . . . 383 
Tanning the grains; Good process of one-bath tanning .... 384 

Making chrome upper from cowhides ....... 385 



CHAPTEB XXIII. 

The Coloring, Fat- Liquoring and Finishing of Hemlock, Gambier, 

Palmetto, Quebracho and Combination-tanned Sides 

into Shoe Leather. 

Washing the sides; Process of fat-liquoring 387 

Fat-liquor formulas . ......... 388 

Coloring the flesh of side leathers . . . . . . . . 389 

Practical formulas for the making of fat-liquors suitable to side leathers; 

Effects of different oils and greases on leathers . . . ... 390 

Best oils to use; Use of glycerine; Fat-liquoring with mulsine . . 391 

Nature of mulsine and its effect on leather; Preparation of fat-liquor with 

mulsine ............ 392 

Application of the fat-liquor ......... 393 

Fat-liquoring chrome leather with mulsine ...... 394 

Chrome-tanned side glove leather; Preparation of pickling solution . 395 

Drumming in the,, tanning liquor ........ 396 

CHAPTER XXIV. 

HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 

Methods used in working horsehides and coltskins; Softening . . 397 

Use of sulphide of sodium upon horsehides; Use of lactic acid . . 398 

Whip and base-ball cover leather ........ 399 

Preparation of tough leather of a light color 400 

Preparation of very soft and tough leather by the use of a form of the old 
calf-kid process; Horsehide shoe leather; Tanning of Russia coltskins; 
Use of palmetto extract ......... 401 

Mode of coloring the flesh yellow for dongola, combination and gambier- 
tanned Russia coltskins and horsehide leather for shoe purposes; Color- 
ing the flesh blue; Solution for a bright glazed finish .... 403 

Seasoning liquor for a glazed finish; Treatment of horsehides intended for 
glove leather ........... 404 

Process for glove and mitten leather ....... 405 



XXIV CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

Chrome methods of tanning for making horsehides into glove material . 406 
Horsehides tanned in oil ......... 408 

Oil-tanning with Turkey-red oil 410 



CHAPTER XXV. 

Hakness, Line, Strap, Belt, Bag, Case, Lace and Russet Leathers. 

Liming and bating the hides; Tanning with a combination of quebracho 
and hemlock extracts . . . . . . . . . 411 

Testing the liquors for tanning strength 412 

Toning down the harshness of leather tanned with hemlock liquors; 

Palmetto-tanned leather 413 

Preparation of lace leather 414 

Composition for tanning hides intended for lace leather; Composition for 
lace and whip leather 415 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

Miscellaneous Infoemation. 

Methods of degreasing leather; Use of hydraulic presses for removing the 
natural grease from skins; Appearance of white grease spots upon the 

leather 416 

Treatment of greasy leather with lactic acid before it is colored; Treat- 
ment of leather with naphtha; Removal of gummy or resinous matters 
from an impure or low grade of oil . . . . . . 417 

A patented process of coloring 418 

Soap receipts; To prepare a soap useful in making fat-liquors . . . 420 
Potash soft soap; Formula for a good soap ...... 422 

Aqueous solutions of soap; Blacking and softening compositions; Compo- 
sition for cleaning, blacking and oiling leather ..... 423 

Acme soap, patented by Henry Parker, Wilmington, Del. ; Composition 
useful in softening and adding to the durability of tanned leather, pat- 
ented by E. Z. Coffee, Philadelphia, Pa .424 

Leather dressing possessing waterproof qualities, patented by J. J. Baulch 
and others, St. Louis, Mo. ......... 425 

To put weight into sole leather; Process for the use of lactic acid in 

plumping and tanning leather, patented by Sigmond Saxe, New York. 426 
Logwood liquor; Clearing leather with alum and salt; Use of borax and 
lactic acid ............ 428 

Bleaching leather with sulphuric acid and sumac ..... 429 

Use of oxalic acid as a bleaching agent . ... . . . . 430 

Appendix. Beamit, one-bath beam-house process, patented by the 
American Hide Process Co., Chicago, Ills. ... . . . . 431 

Index 433 



PEACTICAL TANNING. 



CHAPTER I. 

SHEEPSKINS. 
WOOL-PULLING PICKLED SKINS. 

The first operation to which sheepskins are subjected by 
the tanner or the wool-puller is soaking. By means of this 
process the skins are softened, and cleaned by the salt and 
dirt becoming dissolved and removed from them. 

The relations between the soaking process and the sub- 
sequent processes of the beamhouse or pullery, and the 
tannery are close ; and unless the first process is properly 
carried out, the skins are liable, to show various defects 
during the processes that follow. Sheep and lambskins are 
usually received by the tanner or the wool-puller in what 
is known as green-salted condition. Unless they are very 
heavily salted, a few hours' soaking is generally sufficient 
to soften them, and to dissolve the salt and remove the dirt. 

In warm weather, when the water is warm, a soaking for 
ten hours is enough, while in cold weather the skins may 
be soaked without injury for from twelve to twenty-four 
hours, although no exact rule needs to be followed. The 
most essential thing to be accomplished is the removal of 
the salt, which when it is left in the skins causes cloudy 
grain, sometimes very difficult to overcome in coloring the 
tanned leather fancy shades. 

The effects of too much soaking are loose, soft skins and 
a pitted or marked grain. These are not liable to occur 



Z PRACTICAL TANNING. 

unless the skins or pelts are left in water for an unreason- 
able length of time. 

The best results follow the use of clean, fresh water for 
the soaking. After the soaking is completed, the pelts 
should be removed from the water, and thrown over horses 
and allowed to drain for some time, or they may be passed 
through an extractor or wringer, by means of which the 
surplus water is taken from them. It is a matter of some 
importance that the salty and dirty water be gotten rid of 
before the pelts are depilated, as an imperfect grain fre- 
quently results when this is not done. 

Before the process of removing the wool is begun, the 
pelts are often piled in heaps, and in warm weather heating 
sets in and the pelts are injured more or less, according to 
the degree of heat developed. When heating occurs, the 
skins rapidly decompose and the loss of the stock can be 
prevented only by exposure to the air at once or by immer- 
sion in cold water. The best course to be followed is for 
no delay to be allowed to take place, but to pass the pelts 
at once into the following process : 

WOOL-PULLING WITH SULPHIDE OF SODIUM. 

To accomplish the removal of the wool, there are several 
methods that may be used. The method in most common 
use is by the use of sulphide of sodium. This material is 
used in solution alone, or in conjunction with slacked lime. 
Patented depilatories are also in general use and produce 
very good results. They are used without lime, being sim- 
ply reduced to a liquor and applied to the flesh sides of the 
pelts. 

A common method of using sulphide of sodium is carried 
out as follows : After soaking, draining or extracting, the 
pelts are painted with a mixture of lime and sulphide of 
sodium. A solution of sulphide of sodium is also used 
without the lime. Very good results are obtained by com- 
bining the two articles. 



SHEEPSKINS. 6 

The strength of the sulphide of sodium liquor should be 
slightly varied according to the character of the skins to be 
treated. For heavy bucks and merinos, the strength should 
be from twenty to twenty-four degrees, Baume test ; for thin, 
open and coarse wool skins, from fourteen to eighteen de- 
grees. Upon young lambs the strength of the liquor should 
be from eighteen to twenty-four degrees. 

There are no hard nor fast rules to be followed, nor is it 
necessary that such a rule should be observed, as the skins 
are not readily injured by the use of strong liquor ; the 
material is merely wasted. In all cases the strength does 
not need to be greater than just sufficient to swell the skins 
and to start the wool. 

The lime should be thoroughly slacked and reduced to 
milk of lime, before it is used, by the use of hot water and 
by being constantly stirred from the time the water is added 
to the lime until the latter is completely dissolved. About 
one-half of a barrel of lime may be used to fifty gallons of 
water. It is important that every particle of lime be thor- 
oughly dissolved, since unslacked lime will injure the skins. 
The solution should be cool when used, and used at the 
consistency of thin paste. Five or six pailfuls of lime may 
be used in a barrel of sulphide of sodium solution. In 
place of the sulphide of sodium, red arsenic is sometimes 
used. 

APPLYING THE SULPHIDE OF SODIUM AND LIME. 

The pelts are spread upon a smooth surface, and the 
mixture of lime and sulphide of sodium applied to the flesh 
side. The liquor is best put on by means of vegetable-fibre 
brushes, and only enough liquor is put on to cover the skin 
without running off. While using the sulphide of sodium, 
the workman must wear rubber gloves to prevent his hands 
from becoming sore. 

The pelts are next rolled or folded up with the wool upon 
the outside and placed in piles. If any of the sulphide 



4 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

liquor comes in contact with' the wool it dissolves and 
destroys it at once. When the weather is cold from eight 
to ten skins may be put in a pile together, but in warm 
weather not more than four or five, and if they are to lie 
twenty-four hours or longer they should be singled out so 
that one may lie over the next and so on. The painting 
should be done in a cool, moist room. During the summer 
care must be taken that the skins do not heat, and during 
the winter that they do not get frozen. 

The wool becomes loosened in a few hours, but it is best 
not to remove or " pull " it until the following day, as it 
will then come off cleaner and easier. The length of time 
required, however, depends upon the strength of the depil- 
atory solution, temperature of the room, and the season of 
the year. Very young lamb skins, upon which the liquor 
is often used full strength, should be " pulled " as soon as 
the wool can be removed, and then put at once into clean, 
cold water. It is best to " pull " the pelts double as they 
come from the painters, for in this way the wool onty is 
exposed, and there is less danger of injuring it. 

TREATMENT OF THE SKINS AFTER " PULLING." 

After the wool has been removed from the pelts the slat 
should be opened flesh side out and at once put into clean, 
cold water to which some sulphide of sodium may be 
added. In this they will be safe for some time from heat- 
ing or spoiling. No injury can come to skins that have 
been treated with sulphide of sodium so long as the grain 
is kept moist and not allowed to dry out and harden. For 
this reason the skins should not be exposed to the air any 
more than is absolutely necessary. The sulphide of sodium 
thoroughly softens the skins and removes all scruff and dirt, 
also the short, fine hairs. The stronger the depilatory 
solution is, and the longer the skins remain Avith the solu- 
tion upon and in them, and the less the solution is washed 
out before liming, the weaker and less liming is required. 



SHEEPSKINS. O 

THE LIMING PROCESS. 

While sulphide of sodium and the arsenicated depila- 
tories are excellent agents for removing the wool, the mere 
removal of the wool is not all that must be accomplished 
before good leather can be made from the skins. The slats 
after being depilated, must be further swollen or plumped 
in order to accomplish the necessary dissolution of the 
animal matter in them. Lime not only does this, but it 
also unites with the fatty matter of the- skins and saponifies 
it so that it can be readily removed by drenching before 
the skins are tanned. 

Limes known as gathering limes are commonly used by 
many wool-pullers and tanners. It is good practice to use 
such limes only so long as they are kept clean and fresh. 
When they are used over and over, new lime is required to 
strengthen the old lime liquor, and unless the liquor is kept 
fresh and clean the leather will not look so clean and bright 
as is generally desired. The swelling property of a lime 
liquor decreases with age, while the dissolving property of 
an old and a fresh lime is about the same. 

The first lime in which the skins are placed may be half 
renewed for each lot of skins by allowing one-half of the old 
liquor to run out and by being replaced with water. This 
applies to limes that have been used before, and when it is 
done, the second lime should be new and fresh. When it 
is necessary to make a new lime to start with, about two 
buckets of lime should be slacked in about one-third of a 
barrel of water. This is poured into the lime vat, and will 
answer for from three hundred to four hundred skins, ac- 
cording to their size. This first lime should be kept clean 
and fresh and not used too long. In summer, to get the 
best results, it should not be used more than for four times, 
or for four lots of skins, but in winter it may be used again 
as long. The skins should be left in this lime from one 
day until the next, then hauled out and more lime added, 
or the skins may be put into another and stronger lime. 



6 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Upon the third day the skins are again pulled out and the 
liquor again strengthened, and each time the skins are 
hauled out the lime should be thoroughly stirred up from 
the bottom of the vat. 

From four to six days are generally required to lime 
sheepskins of average thickness. Very heavy skins may 
be limed one or two days longer. When paddle vats are 
used for liming, the skins are kept in constant motion, and 
the objects of the liming process will be accomplished in 
less time than when still limes are used. When the latter 
are used the skins should be stirred about occasionally and 
hauled out daily. When vat room is scarce, it is good prac- 
tice to haul the skins out after they have been in the lime 
a few days, and to let them lie in piles for a few days. 
They should be protected and not allowed to dry out upon 
the grain. 

The length of time required to thoroughly lime the skins 
depends upon the thickness of the skins, time of the year 
and temperature of the liquor. More time is required in 
winter than in summer. 

Fresh lime should be added to the liquor and skins every 
day, in order to keep the former clean and sweet. When 
the limes are kept clean and fresh there is not the danger 
of injuring the skins that there is when the limes are allowed 
to become stale. In such limes a few days overtime will 
not cause any injury, but if a stronger depilitant is used in 
connection with the lime, some care is necessary according 
to the quantity of such material used and the condition of 
the lime liquor, whether it is old or comparatively new. 

While the skins are being passed through the processes 
preparator}^ to the actual process of tanning, they are in a 
very sensitive condition, and if they are exposed to the air 
for a length of time the grain is liable to show up clouds 
and streaks later on. When skins crack and break during 
the finishing processes, it is generally because the precau- 
tion to keep them moist was not heeded. Another point of 



shep:pskins. 



some importance is that the best results accrue when only 
skins of like nature and size are limed and processed 
together. The leather will be of much more uniform qual- 
ity when this is done, than when large and heavy and 
small and light skins are worked through together. Some 
classes of skins absorb more lime in less time than others, 
and the lime takes effect upon such skins more readily than 
upon others, hence it is apparent that in a mixed lot of 
skins some get more lime than others and more than they 
need, while others do not get enough lime. This results in 
an uneven quality of leather. Sheepskins are sometimes 
burned by particles of unslacked lime and also by the use 
of some unreliable brand of sulphide of sodium containing 
iron and other impurities. 

Low-liming results in close, firm leather. Over-liming 
in soft, spongy leather. Nothing can be done to remedy 
the defect caused by over-liming, while skins that are insuf- 
ficiently limed are difficult to tan and do not carry oil and 
grease well. 

Sulphide of sodium used in connection with lime renders 
the lime more soluble and, therefore, more easily removed 
by washing. When great softness and elasticity are desired 
in the leather, the skins require to be limed from eight to 
ten days and then very thoroughly drenched and washed 
before they are pickled or tanned. Some of the substance 
of the skins is dissolved and the resulting leather will be 
soft and stretchy. This condition is desired upon glove 
leather but very undesirable in shoe leather. Sheepskins 
are naturally soft and open and require careful treatment 
to get them just right. When the liming is carried too far, 
the fibres are weakened to such an extent as to impair the 
strength of the leather. 

A great many of the imperfections met with in finished 
leather are caused by improper and careless methods of 
liming and drenching the skins. Some of the most serious 
defects are coarseness and roughness of the grain, looseness 



O PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and sponginess, or the opposite of this condition, that is, 
close, hard skins. If the leather, after being properly 
tanned, is hard and tinny, it can be usually relied upon 
that the skins were not limed enough, or if the grain is 
drawn, they were limed too much. Sometimes skins after 
tanning have hard black or brown spots, also spots from 
which the grain has been removed. These defects are gen- 
erally caused by improper soaking and preparation of the 
skins before painting, or the skins while being treated with 
sulphide of sodium came in contact with rusty iron. When 
dissolving the sulphide of sodium, copper or composition 
pipe should be used. All iron should be kept away from it. 
Much of the grease found in sheepskins may be gotten 
rid of by pressing them between hydraulic presses after 
liming. To prevent the slipping of skins, they should be 
sprinkled with sawdust. After the liming process is com- 
pleted the skins are washed in clean, warm water in order 
to remove from them as much lime as possible, then 
trimmed and short-haired, and they are then ready for the 
drench. The ends and objects to be achieved by this pro- 
cess are the entire removal of all the lime and sulphide of 
sodium in the skins, neutralizing them and causing them 
to lose their firm swollen condition acquired during liming 
and to become clean and soft. Soft, pliable leather cannot 
be made until these things are accomplished. Several 
methods may be used to accomplish the desired objects. 

THE BRAN DRENCH. 

This method of drenching and preparing sheepskins is 
one of the two oldest methods in use. While it is not the 
best process that can be used, it produces very good results 
upon sheepskins when the work is properly done. No hard 
nor fixed rule can be followed in the manipulation of this 
drench. The operator must use judgment and this can 
only be acquired by experience. It goes further toward 
getting the right results than any fixed rule. 



SHEEPSKINS. 9 

The bran known as "middlings" is usually considered 
the best to use, because it is liner and contains more flour 
than the coarse grades. Some wool-pullers and tanners in 
preparing their skins use old sour tan liquor that has been 
used for previous lots of skins. When such liquor is used, 
one pailful of bran is ample for each one hundred skins, 
in enough of the liquor to enable the skins to process 
nicely. The bran is allowed xo ferment and become sour 
before it is used. The liquor should be always warm, at a 
temperature of 90 degrees, and maintained at this tempera- 
ture during the operation. The skins may be left in the 
first drench over night, and in the morning a new drench 
prepared. For this warm clean water is used in place of 
the sour liquor, and one and one-half buckets of bran is 
enough for each one hundred skins. The skins may safely 
be left in this liquor for twelve hours in warm weather, 
and a few hours longer in cold weather. After the skins 
are taken from this drench they are worked upon the grain, 
washed off in warm water, and are then ready for the 
pickling process. 

The action of the bran drench is due to the fermentation 
which takes place, by w r hich acids are formed. In order to 
have the drench become sour as soon as it is made up and 
the fermentation fully developed, it is necessary to cook the 
bran before it is used. The tub should be about one-half 
full of water, then the bran put in and a pailful of old sour 
liquor added, and the whole thoroughly cooked by the use 
of steam. When no sour liquor is to be had, a cake of 
yeast or a gill of sulphuric acid may be used to start the 
bran working. One method is to use about two hundred 
pounds of bran for each six hundred skins of medium size. 
After the bran has fermented, the drenching tub should be 
filled with the necessary quantity of water, heated to about 
ninety degrees. One-half of the bran is put in, and the 
drench well stirred. Then one-half of the skins are placed 
in the liquor, which is again thoroughly stirred, then the 



10 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

balance of the bran is added and the remaining skins. 
The skins should be put in as quickly as possible so that 
they will get an equal and uniform degree of heat. This 
is best accomplished by having the skins placed in piles 
along the sides of the tub and several men employed to do 
the work. The stirring of the drench liquor is a matter of 
some importance, in order that all lumps of dough may be 
broken up. The bran sometimes forms lumps which retain 
the heat, and when these open up upon coming in contact 
with the skins, the latter are burned and small holes and 
hard spots appear. 

Another method of preparing and using the bran drench 
is as follows : For a pack of skins ranging in number from 
four hundred to five hundred, one-half of a barrel of bran 
is added to or mixed with enough water to make a mushy 
mass. This is allowed to stand forty-eight hours to sour, 
and is then emptied into the water in the drenching vat. 
Then are added three pints of oil of vitriol and three pecks 
of common salt, and the entire liquor mixed together and 
heated to ninety degrees. A paddling of four or five hours 
will generally suffice for medium-weight skins ; heavy 
skins requiring about six hours. At the end of such 
lengths of time the skins will be ver} r soft and clean, and if 
they are intended to be colored fancy shades may be given 
a slight working upon the grain. For black or dark-colored 
leather the drenching alone will suffice, the skins going at 
once into the pickle by which they are further cleaned and 
bleached. 

The grain of the skins sometimes becomes rough and 
clouded in the bran drench, and the leather thus affected 
cannot be colored fancy shades. Frequently, too, when the 
fermentation of the bran is not fully developed, or the 
drench is used too hot, too strong or for too great a length 
of time, the leather cracks in the finishing. The amount 
of drenching required by sheepskins depends upon the 
amount of lime in them and the degree of development of 



SHEEPSKINS. 11 

the drench. Less time is also required in summer than in 
winter. When the skins become soft and slippery and be- 
gin to settle to the bottom of the vat, they should be re- 
moved at once, given a working on the grain, washed off 
in warm water and are then ready for the pickling process. 
A method of drenching sheepskins, that has nothing to 
recommend it but age and long use, is by the use of animal 
and bird dung. This method, at one time used almost ex- 
clusively, is being rapidly displaced by cleaner and safer 
and more scientific methods. The use of manure is very 
risky and uncertain. Constant attention must be given the 
stock, and even when this is done no one can tell whether 
a lot of skins will come out right or not, owing to the dis- 
turbing influences over which the workman has no control. 

DRENCHING WITH LACTIC ACID. 

Because of its simplicity, safety and cleanliness, having 
none of the unpleasant features of the bran drench, lactic 
acid is a very satisfactory article to use in deliming sheep- 
skins. During the fermentation of the bran drench organic 
acids are formed, chief and most important of which is lactic 
acid. In fact it is this agent that neutralizes and dissolves 
the lime in the skins. It is not strange, therefore, that pure 
lactic acid should be used for the purpose of deliming skins. 
Its use is very simple and safe. It has no objectionable 
smell and more than is actually required may be used with- 
out injuring the skins. For sheepskins intended for both 
glove and shoe leather, it is used in the following manner : 
After the skins are taken from the lime they are washed in 
warm water, in order to remove from them as much of the 
lime as possible. The quantity of water necessary to drench 
the lot of skins is run into a vat and heated to about ninety 
degrees. To each one hundred gallons of water one gallon 
of lactic acid is added. This quantit}^ of acid is not always 
required. Sometimes three quarts is a full plenty, de- 
pending upon the amount of lime in the skins. The warm 



12 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

drench serves not only to dissolve the lime in a short time, 
but also to bring down the skins, making them soft and 
thin, while a cold bath neutralizes the lime and leaves the 
skins full and plump. The skins are placed in the pre- 
pared drench and constantly stirred about. A vat with 
paddles is best for this process. After being in the liquor 
from one to two hours the skins will be found, in the majo- 
rity of instances, sufficiently drenched to be removed from 
the liquor. In some cases it is necessary to work the skins 
through the slating machine, or upon the beams. For 
black leather, and in most instances for colored leather and 
when the skins are to be sold in pickled condition, they 
may be drained after drenching and passed into the pick- 
ling process without further washing or working. 

When the skins have been heavily limed a more thorough 
drenching is necessary, and the skins need to be washed be- 
fore they are pickled. The drenching with lactic acid may 
also be done in drums. From one to two pounds of acid 
are used in twenty-five gallons of warm water for every 
hundred pounds of skins, and the stock milled in this 
liquor in the drum for thirty minutes. In the majority of 
cases no further washing is required. The next and last 
process to which the wool-puller treats his sheepskins is 
the pickling process. 

THE PICKLING PROCESS. 

The liquor in which the skins are pickled is composed of 
water, sulphuric acid and salt. It should have a sharp, 
sour taste, with some flavor of salt. About two quarts of 
acid and fifty pounds of salt for one hundred medium and 
large skins, makes a good liquor. Enough water should be 
used to cover the skins well and to enable them to be stirred 
about without being crowded. After the drenching process 
the skins should be allowed to press and drain for an hour or 
two, and be then placed in the pickle. They should remain 
in this liquor from two to four hours, and should be stirred 



SHEEPSKINS. 13 

about. The effects of this process are to cleanse and bleach 
the skins and to put them into such condition that they 
may be kept for an indefinite length of time without spoil- 
ing. The pickling liquor may be used over and over by 
being strengthened up with acid and salt for each lot of 
skins. After one lot of skins has been pickled, about one- 
half of the quantities of acid and salt used in the first 
instance should be added to keep the liquor up to a satis- 
factory strength. 

When used continually, about once in two months the 
old liquor should be run out and new prepared. After 
pickling the skins should be drained thoroughly or pressed, 
and are then ready for shipment or tanning. 

The pickled skins are sorted or graded according to 
quality, size and substance. 

WOOL-PULLING WITH NEW XXX DEPILATORY ; PATENTED. 

Very good results are obtained from the use of the pat- 
ented new XXX depilatory. Many wool pullers prefer this 
article to the regular sulphide of sodium. The methods of 
using this article are very similar to those that have been 
described for sulphide of sodium, except that the depilatory 
is dissolved in hot water and used alone and not in com- 
bination with lime. The sheep-pelts are soaked and run 
through wool-cleaning machines and extracted, or they are 
allowed to drain for some hours, then the solution of depil- 
atory is applied with a vegetable-fibre brush to the flesh 
side of the pelts, at a strength ranging from eighteen to 
twenty-four degrees Baume. The pelts are folded with the 
wool on the outside and left in piles until the depilatory 
has taken effect, then the wool is removed and the slats are 
limed in weak limes from one to seven days, being stirred 
about during this time, then worked out on the beam, 
drenched, washed, pickled and tanned. The lime may be 
dispensed with and the skins prepared for tanning in a 
weak solution of the depilatory or of sulphide of sodium 



14 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

from four to ten degrees strength from three to six days, 
after which they are drenched and pickled, and good tough 
leather obtained. 

The advantages gained by the use of this patented depil- 
atory, or by the use of sulphide of sodium for wool pulling 
over the old methods in which the wool is removed by 
sweating it off, or by the use of lime and red arsenic, are 
that in the sweating procees the skin must be decomposed 
to quite an extent before the wool can be removed, and un- 
less very carefully watched the skins often lie too long, or 
the heat becomes too great, and the skins are spoiled or 
seriously damaged for leather purposes. When lime is used 
alone, and years ago it was the only depilatant in general 
use, the damage is mostly to the wool, by reason of its con- 
tact with the lime. When lime and red arsenic are used 
the wool becomes harsh to the touch, and when it is kept 
for a long time it becomes dry and brittle, and it also as- 
sumes a yellowish cast, and will never scour out perfectly 
white nor take certain aniline dj^es. 

The lime process and the lime and red arsenic method, 
depend largely upon the condition of the weather for the 
length of time required to start the wool. In extremely 
cold weather it is almost impossible to work at all, and 
consequent^ the number of skins that can be pulled is 
very uncertain. By the use of sulphide of sodium and new 
XXX depilatory these objectionable features are overcome. 
The results are always certain and uniform, less labor and 
handling are required to accomplish the work and the 
products of wool and skins are of a superior quality, the 
resulting leather also being of finer, closer grain and 
tougher fibre, with no loss of substance or weight. The 
sweating process, at one time largely used by wool pullers, 
has become obsolete and is never used at the present time. 



CHAPTER II. 

THE MANUFACTURE OF CHROME-TANNED SHEEP 
LEATHERS. 

PREPARATION OF SHEEPSKINS FOR CHROME TANNING. 

Sheepskins are naturally full of grease, and before they 
are tanned with chrome liquors it is necessary that as much 
of the grease as possible be removed from them. This is 
accomplished by wringing them, also by the use of a 
hydraulic press, the latter method being generally preferred 
to the former, as it is more effectual. Skins that are in- 
tended for shoe leather require a very thorough pressing in 
order that very little grease may be left in them, as grease 
left in the grain prevents a clear, bright finish. Grease left 
in the skins is also a great barrier in the way of the dyer's 
getting clear and uniform shades of color. 

A number of dozens of skins to the limit of the capacity 
of the press, are spread out smoothly between the plates of 
the press. To prevent slipping, the skins are sprinkled 
with sawdust. As much pressure as the skins can stand 
without injury is applied, and large quantities of grease 
flow from them. The pressure is so great that the skins 
are made to look like pieces of tin, and require a drumming 
in salt water to soften them. The skins are also sometimes 
treated with naphtha. Other methods might be used, but 
they not only remove the grease but take out much of the 
life of the skins as well. 

REMOVING THE ACID FROM PICKLED SKINS. 

A very satisfactory method of tanning pickled sheepskins 
with one bath chrome liquors, and one that is in common 
use, consists of the skins being first tawed with sulphate 

(15) 



1G PRACTICAL TANNING. 

of alumina and salt, before the chrome liquor is applied to 
them. In this way a leather is made that is of plump 
body and smooth fine grain. When this method of tanning- 
is used, it is necessary to remove the acid from the skins be- 
fore the sulphate of alumina and salt are applied. When 
the acid is not removed or neutralized, the leather dries out 
hard and tinny and lacking in strength. To accomplish 
the removal of the acid several methods may be used. One 
bath chrome liquors are not all alike and on account of their 
differences the methods of preparing the skins for one liquor 
do not always work right when other liquors are used. 

A very common method of drenching pickled sheep skins 
consists of a solution of whiting and salt, followed by a light 
drenching in a bath of bran and salt. Before the skins 
are drenched they should be pressed and then drummed up 
in salt water, so as to open up and soften the fibres. 

The temperature of the drench should be about ninety 
degrees Fah. For five dozen skins five per cent, of their 
weight of salt and two pounds of bolted whiting should be 
used in twelve gallons of water. The skins are run in the 
drum in the liquor for thirty minutes and are then allowed 
to rest in the liquor for some time. A few ounces of sal 
soda may be added to the liquor. After the drench of 
whiting and salt the skins may be thrown into a light sour 
bran drench for one-half hour, to. which enough salt has 
been added to keep the skins from smelling, after which 
they may be washed in warm salt water and are then ready 
for tanning. The skins require to be freed of all the whit- 
ing or they will be brittle after tanning. After the washing 
the skins should be allowed to drain for some time before 
they are tanned. 

The whiting and salt give the skins an alkaline character 
which sometimes causes them to tan too rapidly upon the 
surface, causing the grain to become rough and coarse. The 
object of the second drench of bran and salt is to overcome 
this tendency and produce a smooth grain. A drenching 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 17 

in bran and salt also answers the purpose of removing the 
acid without the use of the whiting. The salt is absolutely 
necessary in the drench to hold the skins from swelling. 

A drenching in a solution of coal-tar bate and sal soda 
not only serves to remove the acid pickle, but to remove 
some of the surface grease, which is a desirable thing to be 
accomplished, especial^ if the leather is to receive a glazed 
finish. When the coal-tar bate is used the procedure is as 
follows: For five dozen medium-size skins about twenty- 
five gallons of water heated to ninety degrees are used. In 
one pail of warm water is dissolved one pound of sal soda, 
and in another pail two pounds of the bate are dissolved. 
One-half of the bate solution and all of the soda solution are 
added to the water. The liquor is stirred a few minutes 
and then the other half of the bate solution is added, and 
the drench is then ready for use. The skins, after being- 
pressed and run in salt water, are placed in the prepared 
drench, one at a time and opened out. After being stirred 
about for about ten minutes it will be found that the pickle 
has been removed and the skins may then be taken from 
the drench and allowed to press and drain for some time 
before they are tanned. 

A COMMON METHOD OP CHROME TANNING SHEEPSKINS. 

Very good leather is made by applying chrome tanning 
liquors to a previously alum tanned skin. After the 
drenching and draining the skins are pickled in a solution 
of sulphate of alumina and salt. The usual formula is, for 
each one hundred pounds of skins, weighed after draining, 
three pounds of sulphate of alumina and six to eight 
pounds of salt. Glauber salt may also be used in quantity, 
about four pounds to each one hundred pounds of skins. 
These articles are dissolved in warm water before they are 
used, and the solution is placed in the drum along with the 
skins and the drum run for three-quarters of an hour, until 
the skins have acquired the requisite degree of softness and 
2 



18 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

smoothness of the grain. Although the sulphate of alumina 
is a tanning agent, it really does not act as one in this way 
of using it, as it is all washed out before the leather is dried 
out. Its principal use is to plump the skins and to prevent 
contraction of the fibres and drawing of the grain. When 
there is no hurry for the leather, the skins may be taken 
after the drumming in sulphate of alumina and salt, and 
thrown over horses and allowed to press and drain for as 
long a time as possible. They will improve in quality when 
this is done and eventually grow into much better leather. 
Or they may be taken, hung up and dried, and after drying 
be allowed to lie some time before they are chrome tanned. 
The longer they are left in this dry state the better will be 
the finished leather. When they are to be tanned they are 
washed back in the drum until every spot is softened, then 
they are given the chrome liquor. 

When a continuous procedure is wanted, after the drum- 
ming in alumina and salt, and without the skins being 
taken from the drum, the concentrated tanning fluid is ap- 
plied to the skins and the process is completed in two to 
three hours' time. After the skins have been drumming in 
the solution of sulphate of alumina and salt for three- 
quarters of an hour and have acquired the desired degree 
of softness and smoothness of grain, a solution of tanning 
material is prepared, consisting of, for each one hundred 
pounds of skin in the drum, three gallons of the concen- 
trated tanning material mixed with three gallons of water. 
This solution is divided into three portions, one of which 
is added to the contents of the drum, skins, alumina and 
salt, and the drum run for thirty minutes ; then a second 
portion is added and the stock milled for one hour ; then 
the third portion is added and the drum run for another 
hour, at the end of which time the skins will be found to 
be tanned through. This can be ascertained by the tanner 
by cutting into the thickest part of the heaviest skin, and 
if the green liquor has penetrated ever} 7 fibre, the stock is 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 19 

tanned. The skins should be allowed to lie in the liquor 
over night, in order to give the chrome salts taken up by 
the skins sufficient time to act, or to take effect upon the 
fibres and thus to completely convert them into leather. 
The following morning the tanned skins are removed from 
the drum, and are, preferably, allowed to drain for some 
hours, although this is not really necessary. Before the 
processes of coloring and finishing the leather are begun, 
the skins require to be thoroughly washed in a drum or 
paddle vat in water, in which borax has been dissolved and 
added, in the proportions of one-half pound borax for each 
one hundred pounds of leather. In this borax water the 
leather requires to be washed for at least fifteen minutes, 
after which it is necessary to again wash it for another 
fifteen minutes in clean, cold water. The washing of the 
leather is a very important part of the process, and under 
no circumstances can it be slighted or dispensed with and 
good results obtained from the treatment. 

TANNING PICKLED SKINS WITHOUT DRENCHING. 

Pickled sheepskins may be also tanned without having 
the acid removed from them in the following manner : The 
pickled skins are weighed and for each one hundred pounds 
two solutions are prepared, one consisting of three pounds 
of sulphate of alumina in five gallons of water, and the 
other of three pounds of sal soda also in five gallons of water. 
Both materials are boiled with steam until dissolved. The 
solution of sal soda is then slowly stirred into the solution 
of sulphate of alumina, a small portion at a time, and short 
intervals allowed for the foaming to subside. The two so- 
lutions combined form a milk-white liquor. This should 
be allowed to become cool before it is used, or enough cold 
water may be added to reduce the temperature to eighty- 
five degrees. 

The drained, pickled skins after pressing are thrown into 
the drum, with a solution of salt, consisting of ten pounds 



20 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

of common salt in five gallons of water for each one hun- 
dred pounds of skins. The skins are drummed in this solu- 
tion for ten minutes, until they are softened and opened out, 
then the solution of sulphate of alumina and sal soda is 
given to the skins. This should be given a portion at a 
time, and after all has been put in the skins should be 
drummed therein for at least thirty minutes. Then for 
each one hundred pounds of skins, one gallon of tanning 
liquor is added and the skins drummed for thirty minutes, 
then another gallon is added and the skins drummed for 
one hour, then another gallon for each one hundred pounds 
of skins is added and the skins allowed to drum for another 
hour or longer, until they are well struck through with the 
tanning liquor. Then for each one hundred pounds of 
skins in the drum, one-half pound of salts of tartar is dis- 
solved in as little water as possible and this is added to the 
contents of the drum, and the drum run for one-half hour. 
If at the end of this length of time the liquor in the drum 
still shows a deep green color, another one-half pound of 
salts of tartar may be dissolved and given to the skins and 
the drum allowed to run another half hour. The tanning 
will at the end of this time be complete,- but it is good prac- 
tice to allow the skins to lie in the tanning liquor over night, 
and then to be removed from the drum and allowed to press 
and drain for some hours, the longer the better. After the 
draining the tanned skins require to be washed in a solution 
of borax, consisting of one pound of borax for each one 
hundred pounds of stock, and washed in this for thirty 
minutes and then in clean water for at least one hour, or 
until the stock is perfectly neutral to the taste, after which 
the skins are struck out or pressed, shaved, colored and 
dried out. 

Another method of tanning pickled sheepskins, 
Without removing the pickle from them, is carried out as 
follows : For each one hundred pounds of skins a solution 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 21 

is prepared consisting of one pound of glauber salt, dis- 
solved in eight gallons of warm water. This solution is 
placed in the drum along with the skins, and the drum run 
for ten or fifteen minutes. The skins are then thrown back 
upon each side of the drum on the pins of the drum, the 
plug pulled out and the solution of glauber salt allowed to 
drain off. The plug is then replaced in the drum, and for 
each one hundred pounds of skins ten pounds of salt and 
eight gallons of water are thrown into the drum and the 
skins milled therein for five minutes. Next is added to the 
contents of the drum, salt water and skins, one gallon of 
tanning liquor for each one hundred pounds of skins, and 
the drum run for one-half hour, then another gallon of 
tanning material is added for each one hundred pounds of 
skins and the stock drummed another hour, then another 
gallon of tanning material is poured into the drum and the 
skins milled for from one to two hours or until the}' are 
completely struck through, making three gallons of tan- 
ning liquor used for every one hundred pounds of leather. 
In as little water as possible is now dissolved one-half 
pound of bicarbonate of soda for each one hundred pounds 
of skins, and this is added to the contents of the drum and 
milled for one-half hour. If at the end of this time the 
liquor in the drum still shows a deep green color, another 
one-half pound of bicarbonate of soda may be dissolved and 
added to the contents of the drum and the skins milled for 
another half hour. The tanning should now be completed, 
but if any doubt exists in the mind of the tanner, the skins 
may be drummed for a longer time, or they may be allowed 
to rest in the liquor over night, enough water being added 
to the contents of the drum so that the skins are covered. 
When thoroughly tanned, the skins may be removed from 
the drum and allowed to press and drain for at least 
twenty-four hours. After pressing and draining the re- 
quired length of time, the skins are thrown into a drum 
with a solution of borax or bicarbonate of soda, about two 



22 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

pounds of either of these articles being used for each one 
hundred pounds of skins, and milled in this solution for 
one-half hour. On removing the skins from the borax or 
soda solution they are washed off for a few minutes in clean 
water. It is not necessary to wash them for any length of 
time, as is the case when sulphate of alumina has been used 
in tanning. The leather is then ready to be stained or 
colored, fat-liquored, put out on the grain and treated in 
the finishing operations the same as any chrome-tanned 
skins. 

A NEW ONE-BATH PROCESS OF ACID TANNING. 

A process of one-bath tanning that partakes somewhat of 
the nature of the two-bath process has been recently 
brought out, and while it is especially adapted for calf and 
kid leather, it also gives very good results when it is applied 
to sheepskins. This process is carried out as follows : For 
each one hundred pounds of skins ready for tanning, four 
pounds of bichromate of potash are dissolved. To this so- 
lution are added three pounds of muriatic acid of a strength 
of twenty degrees Be. The skins are treated to this solution 
in a drum or a vat, preferably the latter, and should be 
paddled until the thickest part of the heaviest skin shows 
that the yellow liquor has penetrated through it. The skins 
should be allowed to remain in the liquor until thoroughly 
seasoned with the chrome liquor. Two solutions, known as 
S. Z. solution and S. K. solution, are used in the proportion 
of twenty per cent, of the former and thirty-five per cent, of 
the latter, are then mixed together and added to the bath 
of yellow chrome liquor. Then five per cent, of the weight 
of the skins of sulphuric acid is mixed in about thirty times 
its weight of water and added to the bath. To guard against 
the acid coming on the skins directly, it should be added to 
the bath through a lead-lined wooden funnel long enough 
to reach the bottom of the vat at one corner of the same. 
While these liquors are being added the skins should be 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 23 

kept in constant motion. The skins are paddled for about 
one and one-half days and are then done. They may be 
left for a longer time in the liquor without injury. A 
peculiarity of this process is the fineness and smoothness of 
the grain, there being no contraction of the fibres, as often 
occurs with one-bath liquor. 

To prepare S. Z. solution, eighty pounds of nitrite of soda 
are dissolved in eighty-four pounds of hot water. The S. K 
solution consists of forty-eight pounds of fresh chloride of 
lime forty-eight pounds of soda ash and three hundred and 
eighty-four pounds of hot water. The soda ash is first dis- 
solved in the hot water and when it is all dissolved, the 
chloride of lime is added through a sieve, the liquor being 
constantlv stirred. When all the lime has been stirred m, 
the liquor is left at rest for from one to two days until it 
becomes clear, then the clear liquor is used for tanning and 
the sediment is thrown away. Both liquors, S. Z. and S. K, 
may be kept in one vessel, carboy, vat or hogshead, pro- 
vided the proportions are kept up, and when wanted for 
use the required quantity of the liquor is taken out. A 
wooden tank, tub or hogshead should be used for making 
the solutions. This process is a patented one, 

WHEN SHEEPSKINS ARE TANNED IN PADDLE-VATS. 

Sheepskins are also very satisfactorily tanned with one- 
bath chrome liquors in paddle-vats. When the skins are 
tanned in this way they may be pickled in a solution of 
sulphate of alumina and salt before they are tanned, or 
they may be tanned directly after being drenched from the 
pickle. When the sulphate of alumina is used, it may be 
drummed into the skins in a pin-mill drum. To each one 
hundred pounds of skins three pounds of sulphate of 
alumina and eight pounds of salt may be used. They are 
dissolved in warm water, placed in the drum with the 
skins and the whole milled for at least one-half hour. 
Then the skins are taken from the drum and entered into 



24 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the tanning liquor in the vat. Or a solution of sulphate of 
alumina and salt may be made up in a vat and the skins 
left therein and occesionally stirred about for a few hours, 
after which they are drained and are then ready for tan- 
ning. Whether he uses sulphate of alumina and salt before 
the chrome liquor or not is optional with the tanner. Very 
good leather can be made without them. 

When skins are tanned in paddle-vats the liquors are 
handled in much the same manner as a gambier or sumac 
liquor is handled. The skins are started in a weak liquor, 
and after the}' begin to tan the liquor is from time to time 
strengthened until it is fairly strong. 

Soft water should always be used, as hard water contain- 
ing lime and magnesia often causes a precipitation of the 
tanning material, rendering the liquor unfit for use. To 
every one hundred pounds of skins three gallons of tanning- 
material may be used. One gallon is added to the water at 
the start, and the balance after the skins begin to tan. Or 
to each one hundred gallons of water two gallons of concen- 
trated tanning material may be added, thus making a two 
per cent, liquor at the start. This is increased in strength 
by the addition of more tanning material until it becomes 
a four or six per cent, solution, i. e., four or six gallons of 
tanning material in one hundred gallons of water. Some 
salt may also be used. It keeps the skins open and plump 
and receptive to the tanning material, thus hastening the 
process. Enough water should always be used to enable 
the skins to float about and turn in the liquor by the action 
of the paddles. 

When the skins have been properly prepared for tanning 
they begin at once to absorb the tanning material in the 
liquor, and as they do this they gradually assume a green 
or blue color, and the tan bath, of course, slowly loses its 
strength and becomes lighter in color. After the skins 
have begun to absorb the tanning material the bath should 
be strengthened, in order that from the moment the tanning 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 25 

commences no halt nor backward movement should be 
allowed to take place, but the skins tanned steadily until 
the process is completed. The skins gradually assume a 
greenish blue color, and when the color has penetrated 
every fibre of the thickest skin the tanning is done. This 
usually takes from one to two days, according to the 
strength of the liquor and the thickness of the skin. 
Enough tanning material should always be used to enable 
the skins to grow into plump and well-tanned leather. 
No harm can come to the skins by remaining in the tan- 
ning liquor longer than is necessary. It is important that 
every skin be thoroughly tanned before being taken from 
the liquor. If a thin sheet of rawhide substance is left in 
the center of the skins, the leather will be hard and tinny 
when it is dried out. Too strong solutions of the tanning 
material tend to weaken the leather and to make it tender. 
When one lot of skins has been taken from the liquor, 
some tanning strength still remains, and this can be 
utilized by another lot of skins being put into the liquor. 
The remaining tanning material is then readily exhausted, 
leaving nothing but water behind. The tanner can tell 
when the skins are tanned by cutting into the thickest 
skin, and if the skin has assumed a greenish blue color 
clear through, and if when scraped with a knife, a dry 
fibre shows the skins are tanned. After the skins are 
tanned they should be washed for twenty minutes in borax 
water and for twenty minutes in clear water. 

TANNING SHEEPSKINS IN TWO-BATH PROCESSES. 

When pickled sheepskins are to be tanned by any two- 
bath acid process, the best results will follow if the skins 
are drenched before they are tanned, and put into perfectly 
neutral condition. The removal of the acids in the skins 
is best accomplished by the use of whiting and salt, followed 
by a drench in a light sour-bran drench. The most com- 
monly used process of two-bath tanning is carried out in 



26 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the following manner : After the pickle has been removed, 
from the skins and they are in perfectly neutral condition, 
they are placed in a pin-mill drum, and for each one hun- 
dred pounds of skins a bath is prepared consisting of five 
pounds of bichromate of potash and two and one-half 
pounds of muriatic acid in sufficient water to enable the 
skins to work nicely. This solution, to which some salt 
may be added, is given gradually to the skins in the drum 
until all is in, and the skins are then milled until the 
yellow liquor has penetrated through the thickest part of 
the heaviest skin. This is usually accomplished in less- 
than one hour, depending upon the thickness of the skins. 
When too much acid is used and the proper proportions are- 
not kept up, the skins swell very rapidly until they look 
like pieces of india rubber. The salt in the liquor prevents 
undue swelling. The quantities of bichromate of potash 
and acid may be somewhat varied. Sometimes four per 
cent, of the former and two per cent, of the latter are suf- 
ficient. 

When chromic acid is used, from four to five pounds of it 
are required for each one hundred pounds of skins, without 
any muriatic acid. The essential point in the first bath is 
that the skins are thoroughly penetrated with the yellow 
chrome liquor before they are taken from the drum. Care- 
lessness in this respect results in poor leather. After the 
skins are removed from the drum they should be laid in 
piles or thrown over horses until the next day. They 
should not be exposed to the air nor allowed to dry out 
upon the edges. The chromic acid taken up by the skins ; 
will continue doing its work while the skins are draining, 
and much better leather results than when the skins are 
entered at once into the second bath. The surplus liquor 
should be removed from the skins by striking them out or 
by pressing them. The former method is the best to use- 
upon sheepskins, as it serves to remove the wrinkles, which 
if left in the skins would become fixed in the second bath 
and not readily removed later. 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 27 

For the second bath a paddle vat is undoubtedly the 
best. This bath consists of a solution of hyposulphite of 
soda and muriatic acid and water. Before the skins are 
put into this liquor they should be dipped singly into a 
weak solution of hyposulphite of soda and acid, as by this 
means a slight surface reduction is accomplished. Enough 
water to enable the skins to float and turn in the liquor is 
run into the vat, and for each one hundred pounds of skins 
from twelve to fifteen pounds of hyposulphite of soda are 
dissolved and poured into the vat. To this are added three 
pounds of muriatic acid. The addition of the acid causes 
sulphurous acid to be evolved, which is the active agent in 
this second bath. By means of the paddles on the vat, the 
liquor is stirred and the skins kept in motion. It usually 
requires from ten to eighteen hours to complete the process, 
thick skins, of course, requiring more time than thin ones. 
The color of the skins changes from yellow to greenish-blue. 
Chemically considered a reduction takes place ; the chromic 
acid of the first bath is reduced by the sulphurous acid of 
the second bath to the oxide of chromium. By this method 
the chromic oxide becomes fixed on and in the fibres of the 
skins and the result is leather. The skins should be left in 
the second bath until the yellow liquor has entirely disap- 
peared and the skins have assumed a uniform greenish- 
blue color. This change of color should be through the 
thickest skins before they are taken from the liquor. This 
completes the tanning. 

A process of two-bath tanning, 

The second part of which is materially different from the 
one just described, is carried out as follows : The first bath 
consists of four per cent, of the weight of the skins of bi- 
chromate of potash, that is, four pounds of the potash are 
used for each one hundred pounds of skins, and to this are 
added three pounds of muriatic acid of a strength of 20° Be. 
The skins are given this liquor, diluted of course with 



28 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

water, in a drum, or a paddle vat, and sufficient time 
given for the chrome liquor to penetrate every fibre. The 
second bath consists of: In one hundred gallons of water of 
a temperature of about ninety degrees, five pounds and five 
ounces of sulphuric acid are added. Into this are stirred 
four pounds of peroxide of sodium. This requires to be 
sifted in in small quantities at a time and the liquor to be 
constantly stirred. After the bath is ready the previously 
chromed skins, after draining or pressing, are placed in it 
and paddled until they are tanned, which can readily be 
ascertained by the tanner. This process gives the skins a 
fine, smooth grain. 

FINISHING CHROME-TANNED SHEEPSKINS INTO GLOVE 
LEATHER. 

After washing from the tanning liquors, sheepskins in- 
tended for glove purposes are struck out or pressed to 
remove from them the surplus water, and are then shaved, 
if they require it. After shaving they are colored. This 
is usually done in drums. Aniline dyes are very generally 
used. By their use a large number of shades can be pro- 
duced. Very desirable effects are also produced by comr 
billing two or more dyes. In the making of colored chrome- 
tanned sheep glove leather, the best results are secured only 
when the grain of the leather is clear and free from grease 
and spots. Cleanliness in the processes previous to coloring 
is absolutely necessary. Extracts of sumac and fustic are 
commonly used as mordants. Sumac is generally used for 
light colors and fustic for dark shades. For some dark 
shades other materials may be used, and by the dyer taking 
advantage of the coloring matter in the mordant, a saving 
in the quantity of dyestuff used can be made. Only such 
a quantity of mordant should be used as will result in 
fixing of the dye upon the leather. When more than this 
is used the coloring will be imperfect. 






CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 29 

Ox-blood is a very popular shade, 
And a good color can be obtained in the following 
manner: For each dozen skins use about four ounces of 
extract of fustic. Dissolve this in sufficient water to cover 
the skins, at a temperature of one hundred and ten degrees, 
and drum the skins in the liquor for about fifteen minutes. 
Then add to the same bath two ounces of antimonme or 
of tartar emetic for each dozen skins and drum the skins 
for another fifteen minutes. The skins are next washed 
off in warm water and the color bath prepared at a tempera- 
ture of one hundred and twenty degrees Fah. From two 
to three ounces of amaranth aniline are required for each 
dozen skins, according to their size. The aniline is dissolved 
in boiling water and the skins are drummed in the color 
solution for twenty minutes. Then the leather is washed 
off and fat-liquored. The shade can be darkened by using a 
color solution composed of two ounces of amaranth aniline 
and one ounce chocolate-brown for each dozen skins. When 
the tartar emetic or the antimonme is used, nothing more 
is needed to set the colors, but when they are not used, one 
ounce of bichromate of potash should be dissolved and 
added to the color solutions after the skins have been 
drumming fifteen or twenty minutes, and the drumming 
continued for ten minutes longer. This will fasten the dye 
firmly upon the leather. 

A good shade of ox-blood 
Can also be obtained in the following manner: As a 
mordant either sumac or fustic may be used, or a liquor 
made up of fustic and peachwood extracts. In this the 
skins are drummed for twenty minutes. Then dissolve 
the amaranth aniline, and to the solution add one-eighth 
of an ounce of malachite green aniline. After the skins 
have been drummed in the color solution for twenty 
minutes, dissolve and add one ounce of bichromate of pot- 
ash for each dozen skins, and run the drum for a few 



SO PRACTICAL TANNING. 

minutes longer. A good method of preparing the skins for 
the aniline dye bath is to wash them thoroughly after tan- 
ning, and then let them lie for a few hours in a warm 
sumac liquor. This serves to mordant the leather as well 
as to soften it. After the sumac bath the skins are colored. 

The various shades of brown and tan 

Are very popular. A chocolate brown upon chrome tanned 
sheepskins for glove purposes can readity be obtained by 
the use of chocolate brown anilines, or a combination of 
colors may be used as follows : Three ounces of phos- 
phine for leather, one-fourth of an ounce of green, and 
one-half of an ounce of purple aniline for each dozen skins. 
For a more yellow shade, such as is often wanted, phos- 
phines and orange anilines may be combined, using about 
one-half as much of the latter as of the former. Bismarck 
brown and a violet aniline produce another shade of yellow 
brown, as do also yellow anilines saddened with blue or 
purple. 

Yellow glove leather 

Is made by first mordanting the leather with extract of 
sumac or fustic and then applying a yellow aniline, which, 
if used alone, is too bright or fiery, may be subdued by 
the addition of blue or purple aniline until the right shade 
is obtained. 

For a mahogany shade, 

Use as a mordant a liquor made of either fustic or of fustic 
and logwood. Drum the skins in this liquor for fifteen 
minutes, then add the aniline solution (mahogany brown) 
and drum skins twenty minutes longer, after which add a 
solution of bichromate of potash and continue the drum- 
ming for ten minutes longer. Olive brown K is a very 
pretty shade. Seal browns are also in favor, also the var- 
ious shades of tan, readily obtainable by the use of anilines. 
After the coloring process is completed the skins may be 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 31 

pressed and fat-liquored by the use of one pint of egg yolk 
and one-half pint of olive oil for each dozen skins. 

A good fat-liquor 
Is also made by boiling twenty pounds of alkaline soft 
soap in fifteen gallons of water. To the soap solution are 
added forty pounds of sod oil and the two ingredients 
completely saponified by boiling and stirring. Enough 
water is then added to bring the volume up to fifty gallons. 
Of this fat-liquor about one pailful is used upon each dozen 
skins. 

Another very good fat-liquor. 
Is made as follows : Ten pounds of soap, four gallons of 
neatsfoot oil and five or six pounds of degras saponified 
in fifty gallons of water. Two gallons of this fat-liquor 
is the quantity usually required by each dozen skins. 
The soap is first boiled in water until it is dissolved, then 
the oil is added, and finally the degras. Then enough 
water is run into the tub or barrel to make fifty gallons 
of fat-liquor. In place of the degras, egg yolk may be 
used. This is added after the solution has been cooled by 
the addition of cold water. The fullness of the leather 
may be increased by adding a solution of flour and water 
to the fat-liquor and drumming the skins in the mixture. 
The water should be struck or pressed out of the leather 
before it is fat-liquored. It is good practice to drum the 
leather in a warm drum for a few minutes so as to warm it 
up before the fat-liquor is added. The softness and 
strength of the leather are increased by applying to the 
grain before the skins are dried out, some neatsfoot or 
sod oil. This is put on after the water has been struck 
out, and by penetrating into the leather adds strength and 
softness to the fibres. 

A very practical method of preparing chrome-tanned 

sheepskins with sumac, 

Previous to the application of aniline d3 r es, is carried 



32 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

out in the following manner : For each one hundred 
pounds of leather, weighed after being well washed and 
drained, three and one-half pounds of sumac extract are 
scalded in a closed vessel with three gallons of hot water. 
Sufficient time should be allowed to get the tannin extracted 
from the sumac. This usually takes two hours. The pre- 
pared sumac liquor is then commingled with ten gallons of 
water at a temperature of one hundred degrees Fah. In- 
stead of the extract of sumac a fresh infusion of sumac 
leaves may be employed ; and when dark shades are to be 
dyed the sumac may be replaced up to one-half, by cube 
gambier or terra japonica. The skins are thrown into the 
drum with one-third of the sumac liquor, and are drummed 
therein for five minutes. Then another one-third is added 
and the leather drummed for another five minutes, and 
then the last portion is added to the contents of the drum 
and the drumming continued for fifteen or twenty minutes 
longer. At the end of this time the leather will have ab- 
sorbed all the tannin and the spent liquor may be run off. 
Before doing this, however, it is well to add to the liquor 
and skins ten ounces of tartar emetic or the same quantity 
of antimonine, dissolved in two or three gallons of water, 
for each hundred pounds of leather, and to continue the 
drumming for fifteen minutes, after which the liquor may 
be run off and the skins dyed at once with the aniline dye, 
or they may be rinsed off in luke-warm water and then 
colored. This method of coloring carefully carried out re- 
sults in full, clear, even and fast shades. The use of the 
tartar emetic or antimonine is not always necessary. The 
objects of using either of these articles are to overcome any 
uncombined tannin on the leather, to clear the grain and to 
fix or fasten the aniline dye evenly and permanently upon 
the leather. 

Aniline dyes on this leather. 
Upon leather treated in this manner the aniline dyes 
have a special value because of the many varied, brilliant 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 33 

and beautiful shades that can be obtained with them. It 
is economy for the leather dyer to use only the best dyes, as 
good leather can be seriously reduced in value by the use 
of dyes of poor quality. The leather made by chrome pro- 
cess possesses none of the coloring properties of vegetable- 
tanned stock, and a great many difficulties are usually 
encountered by the dyer who undertakes to color chrome 
tanned leather without guidance or instruction. When 
aniline dyes are being dissolved, care should be taken to 
dissolve the dye thoroughly and in such manner that no 
sediment remains in the vessel. It is well to have the 
water heated to a temperature of one hundred and sixty 
degrees, then to add the color and allow it to go into solu- 
tion, after which, unless a complete solution results, the 
liquor may be boiled for a few minutes. To get the best 
results the solution should be strained before it is used, and 
cleanliness observed in all the operations, both as regards 
the preparation of the leather and the preparing of the color- 
ing materials. It is best to use only the dyes that are 
soluble in water, as they are generally more readily 
absorbed by the leather and produce more uniform shades 
than dyes that are soluble only in alcohol. 

When the dyeing is done in drums, which is the pre- 
ferred method, it is good practice to start with about one- 
third of the color solution and to add the remainder at 
intervals of five minutes through the hollow gudgeon of the 
drum. The drumming is then continued for thirty min- 
utes, or until the bath is as far as possible exhausted. It is 
best to keep the temperature of the liquors above one hun- 
dred degrees Fah. After dyeing, the skins are rinsed in cold 
water and struck out, and dried out and finished as soon as 
possible so as to avoid faded spots and streaks. The skins 
may be stretched in frames or on boards and dried in a 
moderately warm room. 

The aniline dyes referred to in the following instructions 
are the Cassella & Co. brand, made in Frankfort-on-the- 
3 



34 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Main, Germany. The quantities of dyestuffs mentioned are 
for one dozen medium size skins. For small skins less dye 
is required and for large ones more is needed. When a 
large number of skins are to be colored it is a good plan for 
the dyer to try the proportions on two or three skins in a 
tub, and then to increase or diminish the quantity by the 
proper ratio, and to color the lot of leather in pin-mill 
drums. 

Ox-blood shade. 
To get a desirable shade of ox-blood use one ounce of 
Bismarck brown P. S. and three ounces of Russian red B. 
Carry out the operations in the manner described and a 
full, clean ox-blood shade will result. When either tartar 
emetic or antimonine is used nothing else is needed to fix 
the colors upon the leather. 

Very desirable tan shades 

May be obtained by using two and one-half ounces of 
phosphine 11a and one ounce of Bismarck brown in combi- 
nation, also a combination of one and one-half ounces of 
new phosphine G and two and one-half ounces of Bismarck 
brown. A dark tan results from the use of three ounces of 
new phosphine G and one ounce leather brown A and two 
ounces of Bismarck brown P. S. For a very light tan use 
one-half ounce Bismarck brown, mixed in solution with 
four and one-half ounces new phosphine G, saddened or 
subdued with a very little neutral blue. A very pretty 
brown : Three-fourths of an ounce leather brown B. and 
three ounces of new phosphine G. In some cases the quan- 
tities of dyestuff mentioned may prove more than enough 
to produce the desired shade. This must be determined by 
an experiment on two or three skins colored in a tub. The 
proportions may vary slightly and still produce satisfactory 
colors. These dyes may also be too expensive for the 
average case. They are recommended, however, when extra 
fine leather is being made and when superior colorings are 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 35 

wanted and appreciated. The cost in such instances is 
more than repaid by the even and rich colors that result 
from their use. 

SULFAMINE-DYED SHEEPSKINS. 

Chrome-tanned sheepskins intended for coloring with sul- 
famine dyes must be as free from grease as possible. The 
coloring is best done in drums, and the temperature of the 
dyeing solution should be 130 degrees Fah. In order to get 
thorough penetration with these dyes a small quantity of 
carbonate of ammonia should be added to the dye liquor, 
but this may afterwards be neutralized with a little acetic 
acid. 

Yellow chrome-tanned glove leather may be produced 
by coloring the skins with three ounces of sulfamine yellow 
D, for each dozen skins, measuring from eighty to ninety 
feet. A light greenish-yellow is obtained by the use of 
three and one-half ounces sulfamine yellow A. 

A rich, dark ox-blood is produced by the combination of 
the following dyes : one and a half ounces sulfon brown B, 
five ounces sulfon carmine B, one and one-half ounces 
haematine powder. No alkali or acid is required for this 
combination. 

After the dyeing is completed the skins are fat-liquored 
for about one-half hour at a temperature of 100 degrees Fah. 
A good neutral fat-liquor is made of egg yolk and neatsfoot 
or olive oil — one pint of egg yolk and one-half pint of oil 
being used upon each dozen skins. 

GLAZING CHROME-TANNED SHEEPSKINS COLORED. 

Fine grained sheepskins, when skillfully tanned and 
properly colored, may be finished in imitatiou of genuine 
kid leather. It is necessary for the finisher to get rid of as 
much of the grease in the grain of the leather, as possible 
before he can get a bright clear finish. This in many in- 
stances is exceedingly difficult to do. To assist in clearing 



36 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the grain of grease a solution of vinegar, water and bichro- 
mate of potash may be used. To one gallon of strong vine- 
gar a few ounces of bichromate of potash dissolved in hot 
water are added, and the solution of vinegar and potash 
commingled with ten gallons of water. This solution is 
applied to the dried skins with a soft sponge, and must be 
rubbed well down into the grain. Then the leather is dried 
and seasoned. A clear bright finish may be obtained by the 
use of a liquor composed of egg albumen solution, acetic 
acid, bichromate of potash and water. Proportions : Four 
gallons of egg albumen liquor, one ounce bichromate of 
potash, two quarts acetic acid, and twenty gallons of water. 
The ingredients should be thoroughly mixed together. A 
light coat is applied to the leather and thoroughly rubbed 
in, and the leather dried in a warm room and then glazed. 
A second coat of the glazing liquor is usually required, and 
sometimes a third. The less seasoning liquor that is used 
to get a clear bright finish the better will be the finish, as 
the leather will stand handling better, and the grain will 
show plainly through the finish, which is usually considered 
desirable. There are very good seasoning or glazing liquors 
on the market that the leather worker can buy ready for 
use and thus dispense with the trouble of making his own 
liquors. This course is pursued by many and is to be 
recommended. 

Sheepskins require very little, and in many instances, 
no fat-liquor at all to impart to them the degree of softness 
required in shoe leather. Neither do they need a great 
deal of staking and working, but on the contrary, the less 
they are worked and handled after drying out, the firmer 
will be the finished leather. 

FINISHING THE SKINS INTO BLACK SHOE LEATHER. 

Chrome tanned sheepskins, for black shoe leather, glazed 
and dull, are finished after tanning in the following man- 
ner : After the washing is finished they are struck out or 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 37 

pressed and then shaved to make them of uniform thick- 
ness and the flesh smooth and clean. The solidity and 
firmness of the leather may be slightly increased by wash- 
ing the skins from the tanning liquors in a solution of 
whiting and salt, using about ten pounds of salt and five 
pounds of whiting in fifty gallons of warm water. The 
skins should be drummed in this liquor for thirty minutes, 
then washed in water until the whiting is entirely removed, 
then struck out and shaved. During the shaving the 
leather should he kept from all stain and grease, which 
being acquired at this stage of the work interfere in the 
latter processes of finishing. If the leather is to be black 
the flesh is first colored blue or purple. This is accom- 
plished by the use of logwood and sal soda or borax, or by 
the use of blue nigrosine. When logwood liquor is used 
enough sal soda or borax is added to make the color blue or 
purple. Some purple aniline may be used, but is not neces- 
sary. When powdered logwood dyes are used one pound 
of the same boiled in ten gallons of water is sufficient 
for one hundred pounds of leather. The skins may be 
drummed in this liquor for fifteen minutes, and then spread 
on a table and grain blacked by hand or passed through 
dye boxes, or the striker may be applied to the skins in the 
drum before they are removed from the logwood liquor. 
Blue nigrosine produces very satisfactory results when it is 
used for flesh coloring. For each dozen of medium size 
skins, from two to three ounces of the nigrosine are boiled 
until dissolved in three gallons of water. This is added to 
the skins in a drum at a temperature of one hundred and 
twenty degrees, and the skins drummed for fifteen minutes 
or until the color is well taken up. Unless the leather has 
been thoroughly washed after tanning, the blue color will 
not penetrate as it should. 

After flesh coloring the water is drained off, and then the 
grain is blacked with logwood and iron liquor. A good 
striker to develop the color is made of five pounds of cop- 



38 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

peras and one and a half pounds of blue vitriol boiled in 
twenty gallons of water. After the boiling, the barrel is filled 
to a total of fifty gallons. When coloring on a table add a 
small quantity of ammonia to each pailful of dye. After 
blacking, wash off the leather and proceed to finish it. In 
many instances sheepskins require no fat-liquor to make 
them soft. This depends upon how they were treated in 
the beamhouse and also upon the tannage used. Before the 
skins are dried out, they should be well struck out, and a 
coat of glycerine and water applied to the grain. This 
gives a smooth, soft feel to the leather and helps in the final 
finishing. The glycerine may be half water. It should be 
put on with a rag or sponge and applied evenly over the 
grain. After this the skins are laid out flat in a pile or 
placed over horses, covered up and allowed to draw for two 
or three hours. The skins are then again struck out, all 
the wrinkles removed and the grain laid down flat. A light 
coat of oil is then applied evenly over the grain, or no oil 
is used, according to the condition of the leather. The skins 
are then dried out, and finished up by glazing or ironing. 
The best finish is secured when the glazing liquor is used 
in dilute form and well rubbed down into the grain. The 
grain of the leather must be cleared of greasy matter before 
a good, bright finish can be obtained. For this purpose a 
dilute solution of lactic acid may be used, also a liquor 
composed of vinegar, bichromate of potash and water. 

Two or three applications of the seasoning liquor are 
given as the skins require. 

A good glazing liquor for sheepskins 

May be made of the following ingredients : Five gallons 
of logwood are blacked with a few ounces of copperas. 
In place of this a solution of nigrosine may be used. Then 
add one and one-half pints of blood, fresh or defibrined, 
five ounces of glycerine and eight ounces of ammonia. 



CHROME-TANNED SHEEP LEATHER. 39 

Trouble with black chrome tanned sheep, leather and 
prevention. 

Trouble is often encountered in the finishing of chrome 
tanned sheepskins into black shoe leather by the color fad- 
ing away during the time the leather is drying out, leaving 
the grain a decided blue color. Very frequently the black 
returns during the process of glazing and finishing, but not 
always ; and sometimes when it does come back it is not a 
perfect black, but a black with a blue bottom that can be 
readily seen by pulling the grain of the leather apart. 

This defect in the leather is sometimes caused by the 
leather having been insufficiently washed before it was 
colored ; but this is not always the cause, as it occurs with 
the best dyers when the greatest care has been observed in 
washing the skins, and when the best coloring materials are 
used. A good method of preventing the trouble, and this 
is what the practical workman is interested in, is to prepare 
the skins for coloring by giving them a bath of sumac or 
palmetto extract after washing and just previous to apply- 
ing the dye. For one hundred pounds of leather washed 
and ready for coloring, a sumac liquor may be used com- 
posed of four pounds of sumac extract and three gallons of 
hot water, mixed with about thirty gallons of lukewarm 
water. In a solution prepared in this manner the skins are 
drummed for thirty minutes, or until they have absorbed 
all of the tannin from the liquor. After this they should 
be lightly washed in water before being colored. 

A decoction of sumac leaves may be used instead of the 
extract, and a combination of sumac and gambier may be 
employed, one-third of the former and two-thirds of the 
latter, Also a palmetto extract liquor made up in about 
the same manner as above suggested for sumac. By this 
treatment the skins are prepared to receive any coloring 
material that may be used, the same becoming firmly fixed 
upon the leather in such manner that it will not fade nor 
disappear into the leather. Upon skins treated in this 



40 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

manner a very desirable blue flesh may be obtained by the 
use of a purple aniline, such as methyl violet, after which 
the grain may be blackened with a solution of logwood fol- 
lowed by an iron or other striker liquor, and for a final dye 
a fast black aniline may be used. This produces a dark 
blue flesh and jet black grain, but is somewhat expensive. 
The aniline dyes may be omitted entirely and the blue 
flesh and black grain obtained in the manner that has 
been described. 

Chrome-tanned sheepskins may also be mordanted 
By being dipped into a solution of permanganate of potash, 
described in the chapter devoted to goatskins ; also by 
treatment with a liquor composed of bichromate of potash 
and salts of tartar. These methods serve as foundations for 
the logwood, and the coloring is made comparatively easy. 
The skins may be blue-backed and grain blacked in the 
following manner : Mordant them with extract of sumac, 
then dye with violet aniline for the back ; then pass the 
skins through logwood liquor and bluestone, and finally 
dye with fast aniline black upon the grain, wash off, strike 
out and finish. 



CHAPTER III. 

SHEEPSKINS. 

Alum, Oil and Napa Processes, 
processes op alum tawing. 

The animal grease should as far as possible be removed 
from pickled sheep and lambskins before they are alum 
tawed. This is accomplished by pressure, wringing or by 
treatment with naphtha. After the degreasing operation is 
completed, the skins require a drumming up in salt water 
in order to soften them and to open them out. Then it is 
necessary to remove the acid used as a pickle. This is 
accomplished by drenching the skins in a bath of whiting 
and salt or of bran and salt. When whiting and salt are 
used two pounds of bolted whiting and five pounds of com- 
mon salt are used for every one hundred pounds of skins. 
The whiting and salt are dissolved in about ten gallons of 
warm water and placed in the drum with the skins, and 
the skins drummed in the liquor for twenty minutes and 
then allowed to lie in the liquor for thirty minutes. After 
this they are washed in two baths of warm salt water in 
order to rid them of every trace of the whiting, or the skins 
may be taken from the drench of whiting and salt and 
washed for a few minutes in a light sour bran drench, then 
drained and they are ready for tanning. An ordinary 
quality of leather is obtained by tawing the skins in a 
solution composed of three pounds sulphate of alumina, four 
pounds glauber salt, and five pounds common salt dissolved 
in ten gallons of water. The glauber salt may be omitted 
and the quantity of common salt increased to eight or ten 
pounds. The skins are drummed in this solution for one 

(41) 



42 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

hour, and should then be allowed to lie in the liquor some 
hours or placed in piles to press and drain for about twenty- 
four hours, then hung up and dried out. The skins tawed 
in this way require very little or no grease or oil at all, as 
they work out very soft and white. 

An extra fine quality of alum leather. 

When ^n extra fine quality of alum leather is wanted, 
possessed of good, plump body and fine, smooth grain, the 
skins, after drenching, may be tawed in the following man- 
mer : For each one hundred pounds of skins three pounds 
of sulphate of alumina and six pounds of salt are dissolved 
in six gallons of water. This liquid is put in the drum 
with the skins and the skins drummed for thirty minutes. 
Then a second solution is prepared, consisting of ten pounds 
of hyposulphite of soda dissolved in five gallons of warm 
water. This solution is poured into the drum and the skins 
milled in the combined solution of sulphate of alumina, 
salt and hyposulphite of soda for twenty minutes. The 
hypo solution fixes the tannage upon the skin fibres, mak- 
ing it permanent. It also thins the skins. In order to 
overcome the thinning of the skins, which is an objection- 
able feature, another solution of sulphate of alumina and 
salt is added. This may consist of two pounds of sulphate 
of alumina and three or four pounds of salt dissolved in 
three gallons of water and is added to the skins and the taw- 
ing materials alread}^ in the drum. The skins are drummed 
in the liquor for thirty or forty minutes, or until they have 
acquired the desired degree of plumpness. The skins are 
then taken from the drum and are preferably rinsed off by 
a single dipping of them separately in clean water; and are 
then horsed up for several hours to drain. Thoroughly 
tawed skins are produced by this method that are insoluble 
in cold water and even in warm water and that make mer- 
chantable leather of superior quality and fine grain. After 
the final bath of sulphate of alumina and salt, the skins 



SHEEPSKINS : ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 



43 



may be dried out and treated in the finishing operations in 
the same manner that chrome-tanned skins are treated. 
The skins may also be tawed in vats. This method is mor 
economical than drum tawing but requires more time. The 
liquors can be used over and over for succeeding lots of 
skins. The quantities of tawing materials required at the 
start are the same as in drum tawing. Enough water is 
required to enable the skins to float and turn in the liquor, 
and the process can be hastened by the use of warm water, 
at a temperature of ninety degrees. The skins may be 
stirred about in the first liquor for some hours, then re- 
moved and placed in a weak solution of hyposulphite of 
soda, and from this solution placed in another liquor of 
sulphate of alumina and salt, and left therein some hours, 
then drained off and dried out. In this process sulphate of 
alumina should always be used and not alum, as alum does 
not produce so good results as. the former article. 

A process of white tawing, recently patented in Germany, 
Is carried out in the following manner : After the usual 
processes of dehairing and drenching, the skins are placed 
in a bath, consisting of one part of sulphate of alumina to 
ten parts of water. A small quantity of muriatic acid is 
added to hasten the development of sulphuric acid in gas 
form. The liberation of sulphuric acid forms chloride of 
aluminum. The skins are swollen and bleached in this 
liquor, being left therein for forty minutes. After removal 
from the liquor, the skins are allowed to drain or drip and 
are then placed in an ammonia bath. This neutralizes the 
free acid, while the precipitated hydroxide of aluminum 
taws the skins and also forms a mordant for any color that 
may be applied to the leather. 

Very soft and tough white leather 
May be made by a modified form of calf-kid tawing applied 
to sheep and lambskins. For this process the skins require 
to be drenched in a light drench of sour bran and salt to 



44 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

rid them of the acid used in pickling them. After they 
have drained, the skins are tawed in a tawing solution com- 
posed of five pounds of alum, eight pounds of salt, five 
pounds of flour, five pints egg yolk, and two and one- 
half pints of neatsfoot oil for each one hundred pounds 
of skins to be tawed. The alum and salt are dissolved and 
mixed, then the flour is added and then the egg yolk and 
oil. The skins should be warm when they are put into 
the drum, the tawing mixture added and the skins 
drummed therein for at least one hour, after which they 
should go into a cold alum and salt solution for several 
days. Taken from the liquor the skins should be dried 
in a warm room and left in the dry state for some time. 
They are then dampened and staked by hand or on a 
machine. For first-class skins the stock should be laid 
away after the first staking for several weeks, in order that 
they may retain all the tawing properties and make soft 
plump leather. After the first staking and while they are 
in damp Condition the skins are shaved, dried, staked 
again, and are then finished up either in white or are 
colored any shade or dyed black. 

Sheepskins and lambskins can be made into very soft, strong, 
glove leather by 

The following method of tawing : For each one hundred 
pounds of skins ready for tanning, five pounds of alum, 
ten pounds of salt, twenty pounds of flour and ten pounds 
of egg yolk are made into a liquid paste, by mixing with 
ten gallons of warm water, and applied to the skins in a 
pin mill drum at a temperature of ninety degrees Fah. 
The skins are milled in the liquor-paste for forty minutes, 
or until they have absorbed the same. They are then 
dried out and stored away to become cured. The longer 
they are stored before they are finished the better will be 
the finished leather. Skins treated in this way may be 
finished up into a ver}' fine glove leather. They may also 



SHEEPSKINS : ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 45 

be uniformly moistened and washed with warm water, 
and given a retannage with one-bath chrome liquors, 
colored and finished up as chrome leather with very good 
results. No fat-liquoring after the retanning in chrome 
is required. 

In the tanning of sheep and lambskins into glove leather, 

The soluble oil known as Turkey-red oil may be used in 
place of egg yolk, and in the same manner ; or the skins 
may be treated first in a fifteen per cent, solution of the oil, 
dried, and the treatment with oil repeated, and the skins 
then tanned in the usual way. To the oil solution some 
carbolic acid should be added to prevent the heating of 
skins while they are stored to cure. Salicylic acid aud tar 
oil may also be used in place of carbolic acid. 

When pickled skins are to be tanned in the above pro- 
cesses, the acid should be removed by a thorough drenching 
in sour bran and salt, or first drenched in whiting and salt 
and then left for a few minutes in a light drench of sour 
bran and salt. Getting rid of the animal grease is also an 
item of much importance. 

COMBINATION PROCESS OF ALUM AND CHROME. 

Pickled sheep and lambskins may be worked into fine, 
soft leather, possessing the good qualities of both alum and 
chrome leather by being first tawed in a solution of sul- 
phate of alumina and salt, composed of three pounds of the 
former and six pounds of the latter, in ten gallons of water 
for every one hundred pounds of skins. After being drummed 
in this solution for one hour the skins are dried out and 
left in the dry state for two or three weeks, the longer the 
better ; after which they are moistened in a drum or vat until 
all parts are uniformly soft and moist. Then they are tanned 
in one-bath chrome liquors, washed, fat-liquored with a 
light emulsion of oil and soap, dried out and finished in 
the manner usually employed upon chrome leather. When 



46 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

they come from the chrome process, in order to remove the 
green or blue tinge, they may be washed in warm borax 
water for twenty minutes and then left for some hours in a 
hot bath of sumac. This process not only bleaches the 
skins, but makes them soft and elastic. After the sumac 
bath they may be colored any shade of color, the sumac 
serving as a mordant, or they may be finished up without 
coloring and make a very soft white leather especially 
adapted for any purpose where such leather is wanted. 

A very good fat-liquor 

For this class of stock that gives nourishment to the leather 
is made of ten pounds of potash soap, four gallons of neats- 
foot oil and ten pounds of egg yolk in forty gallons of water. 
The egg yolk should not' be added until the soap and oil 
have been thoroughly emulsified and the temperature 01 
the emulsion reduced to about seventy-five degrees Fah. 
Two gallons of this fat-liquor are enough for each dozen 
skins intended for glove leather. For shoe leather less 
fat-liquor is required. Before the skins are dried out they 
should be well struck out or pressed, and the surplus water 
removed from them. Then a light coat of oil may be 
given the grain, and if the oil is warm when it is put on it 
will penetrate readily into the leather and add strength to 
the fibres. 

SHEEP AND LAMBSKINS OIL-TANNED. 

Sheepskins and lambskins when tanned in oil make very 
soft, elastic leather, very useful in making gloves and mit- 
tens. 

For this method of tanning, the skins should be very 
thoroughly limed, and then freed of all lime before they are 
tanned. A good method of washing out the lime without 
injury to the skins is to wash them in a warm bath of lactic 
acid in a drum. This may consist of one gallon of the 
acid mixed with one hundred gallons of water at' a temper- 



SHEEPSKINS : ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 47 

ature of 90 degrees F. A washing in a drum for thirty 
minutes serves to wash out all the lime, after which the 
skin may be tanned without further treatment. 

When pickled skins are to be oil tanned they should be 
drummed up in salt water, and then drenched in a light 
sour-bran drench in order to get them perfectly clean and 
free from acid. 

Before any oil is applied the skins should be allowed to 
drain well and then pressed and as much as possible of the 
surplus water removed from them. The process of oil tan- 
ning is carried out best with appliances and machinery 
especially designed for the purpose. Newfoundland cod oil 
of the best quality produces excellent results. The skins 
are heavily sprinkled with the oil, and then subjected to 
machinery, by means of which the oil is forced into the 
skins. The work of oiling and treating the skins is re- 
peated two or three times, or until they have assumed a de- 
cided yellow or mustard color. 

After this part of the work is completed the leather is 
made to undergo a process of heating, by which the oxida- 
tion of the oil begun during the previous process is com- 
pleted by the fermentation that takes place in the skins. 
The skins are laid in a moderately warm room in heaps and 
allowed to heat. The heat is generated spontaneously, and 
the piles of skins must be closely watched and frequently 
turned over. The highest temperature allowable is 140° 
Fah.; a temperature higher than this seriously damages 
the skins. All organic matter in the skins is destroyed. 
This process of heating is a very delicate one and upon its 
being properly done depends the success of the leather. 

Unless sufficient heat is generated the skins will rot; and 
when too much heat is produced they become dissolved. 
When the fermentation ceases and the skins are no longer 
capable of heating they are treated to remove surplus oil. 
This may be done by washing them in hot water, and then 
subjecting them to pressure by means of a hydraulic press. 



48 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

A great deal of grease is squeezed out in this way. The 
finishing process consists of drying out the skins and work- 
ing them soft, and removing all roughness and unevenness 
from the flesh. In some instances the skins are hung up 
in a warm closed room, instead of being placed in piles to 
ferment. 

Very soft tough glove leather 
May be made by treating sheep and lambskins with a 
mixture composed of four pounds of alum, six pounds of 
salt, twenty pounds of wheat flour, and five pints of egg 
yolk and two and one-half pints of olive oil. These 
articles are thoroughly mixed together in twelve gallons 
of warm water, and are used for each one hundred pounds 
of skins. The skins are drummed in this mixture for 
thirty minutes, and then hung up and dried out. They 
should be left in the dry state for some months to cure, 
and may then be worked out and finished. It may be 
interesting for the tanner to know that the soluble oils 
known as Turkey-red oils or alizarine oils may be used in 
place of egg yolk. They may also be used upon chrome 
tanned skins in place of emulsions of soap and oil. 

Sheep and lambskins may be oil-tanned 
By being passed through a warm twenty-five per cent, solu- 
tion of the oils, or they may be treated with the same in a 
drum. After the treatment with oil, the skins are placed 
in piles and allowed to heat, by being covered up in a mod- 
erately warm room. They are then hung in the air and 
dried slowly, after which they are again treated with the 
oil, being first washed in an alkaline solution and then 
having oil applied in the same manner as at first. They 
are again allowed to heat, dried again and washed in a weak 
solution of borax or other alkali. The drying and treating 
with oil may be repeated from two to four times, after which 
the skins are dried and worked out soft. The results may 
be changed by greater or less concentration of the oil solu- 



SHEEPSKINS : ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 



49 



tion, by higher temperatures in drying and by being passed 
more often through the oil solution. As has been suggested, 
the skins may be tanned by a combination of the oil with 
the salts of alumina. One method of doing this is to steep 
the prepared skins in an oil solution and then dry them 
out. The operation may be repeated and then the skins 
tanned with alum and salt in the usual way. Or the sol- 
uble oil may be used in place of egg yolk in any process 
where such article is used, and after drying out the skins 
they may be finished into alum leather of a superior 
quality, or they may be uniformly moistened with warm 
borax water and tanned in a one-bath chrome process. 
Very desirable glove leather is made in this way. 

To the oil solution some carbolic acid may be added to 
counteract the too strong heating of the skins while they 
are stored to cure. In place of carbolic acid, other suitable 
substances having a similar effect, such as salicylic acid 
and tar oil, may be used. The advantages of using Turkey- 
red oils in tanning are great softness and toughness and 
uniform diffusion of the oil throughout the leather. 

THE MAKING OF NAPA LEATHER. 

The cheapest tannage by which sheepskins are tanned is 
the Napa tannage, so called because it originated in Napa, 
Cal. The process is. more of a curing than a tanning 
one, as it really only cures the skins. The process may 
justly be considered a soap and oil tannage. The leather it 
produces is possessed of considerable strength and softness, 
and is used for linings, bindings, gloves and suspender 
work. For this tannage light-weight skins are used. Three 
classes of leather are made, white, dull and black in dull 
and glazed finishes. For the white leather the poorer skins 
are used. As they are finished upon the flesh side, the 
quality of the grain is of no importance. For black, Napa 
skins of medium quality are used. The ones of fine grain 
are glazed, while the poorer quality skins go into dull finish. 
4 



50 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The original process of making Napa leather consisted of 
removing the wool by sweating, and then treating the skins 
to the tanning process. No lime was used at any stage of 
the process, and the skins were thus left flat and the strength 
of the fibres was not weakened. As the process of preparing 
the raw skins has changed considerably, various modifica- 
tions have crept in. At the present time the wool is re- 
moved by the use of sulphide of sodium and lime. The 
skins are given very little or no lime at all, but of course 
need to be thoroughly washed before they are tanned or 
pickled. Large quantities of skins are received by the 
tanners in pickled condition, having been pickled in sul- 
phuric acid, salt and water. These skins are first pressed 
in a hydraulic press to remove the grease and are then 
drummed up in a solution of salt and water to get them in 
suitable condition to be tanned. The original Napa process 
consisted of the following method of tanning : For about 
two hundred skins, twenty pounds of salt, thirty pounds of 
white rock potash and three hundred gallons of water con- 
stituted the first part of the process. The skins were left in 
the liquor for two or three hours, then wrung out very dry 
and immersed in the second solution. This consisted of 
twelve pounds of hard soap, two gallons of neatsfoot oil and 
one hundred and fifty gallons of water. The skins were 
left in this liquor until the liquor had thoroughly pene- 
trated them, then they were dried out and passed through 
the process a second and even a third time, as they seemed 
to require. After the last drying the skins were washed in 
clean water to make them clean and soft and were then 
colored any desired shade, or blacked or left white, as was 
desired by the tanner. 

Pickled skins are really partly cured when received at 
the tannery, and in some instances it suffices to merely 
neutralize the acid in them. For this purpose soda and oil 
are sometimes used, also borax and oil. For white leather 
the skins receive no further treatment, but are dried in a 
warm room and as rapidly as possible. 



SHEEPSKINS : ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 51 

Coloring black Napa. 

Black Napa leather is generally colored blue on the flesh 
side. This may be done by the use of Direct Blue Paste, a 
paste specially prepared for the purpose. It produces a full, 
dark blue shade, and penetrates the skins from flesh to 
grain. This is the method of using it : For ten dozen skins 
direct from the press, two gallons of the blue paste are dis- 
solved in ten gallons of water, and the skins are drummed 
in this liquor for three-quarters of an hour, then allowed to 
lie over night and are tanned the next day. A good black- 
ing for this class of leather is made as follows : Five pounds 
of nitric acid, five pounds of muriatic acid and one pint of 
water. Enough wrought iron chips are used to kill the 
acid, then seven pounds of copperas are dissolved in five 
gallons of water and added to the above. A good " sig " is 
made of forty gallons of water, twelve pounds of salts of 
tartar, five pounds of bichromate of potash and one quart 
of ammonia. These formulae are in practical use and giv- 
ing good results. 

The skins, after becoming dry are moistened and then 
dampened down for staking. This is usually accomplished 
by dipping the skins in water and then letting them lie in 
piles until they become uniformly moistened. When in 
just the right condition, the skins are knee-staked for the 
purpose of softening them and to get rid of all stretch. 
After this work is completed, the skins are tacked or 
stretched upon boards in moist condition and left until 
thoroughly dry. When they are dry they are buffed on 
emery wheels. Upon the white Napas this is a very import- 
ant part of the work. The buffing is done to remove the 
surplus flesh and to make the skins clean and smooth upon 
the flesh side. The black napa leather is finished upon the 
grain in dull and glazed finishes. The dull finish is ob- 
tained by ironing the skins while they are slightly moist 
with seasoning, and for the glazed finish the skins are 
glazed upon machines. 



52 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The following process produces very soft, tough leather, 

Especially adapted for cheap gloves, button fly linings and 
similar purposes. The leather is very similar to Napa 
leather, in fact it is a Napa process. The skins are treated 
in the beamhouse in the usual way. Very little or no lime 
at all is required, the skins being merely depilated either 
by the use of sulphide of sodium or by a mixture of sul- 
phide of sodium and lime. For ten dozen sheepskins of 
average size, prepared for tanning, a solution is prepared 
composed of two pounds of caustic soda and one pound of 
borax in sufficient water to cover the skins. This solution 
and the skins are placed in the drum and milled for thirty 
minutes, after which the skins are removed from the liquor, 
hung up and dried out. They are next immersed in a 
liquor composed of five pounds of hard soap, one gallon of 
straits or neatsfoot oil, one-half pound caustic soda and 
seventy-five pounds of water. In this solution the skins 
should remain until they have become thoroughly softened, 
after which they are put into a drum with a part of the 
second composition and run for about thirty minutes, being 
then removed and dried as before. In many instances this 
process thoroughly tans the skins. When not considered 
quite satisfactory after drying out the second time, they 
may be soaked soft in the second liquor or drummed in 
drums and worked through the process a second time. 
Some skins require longer treatment than others. After 
they have been treated in this manner and have become 
leather, they are put into a very weak solution of soap, oil 
and caustic soda, thoroughly mixed with water, in order to 
soften them, and in this moist condition they may be col- 
ored any desired shade, or for white leather they are dried 
without further treatment and then worked soft. By this 
process leather is made that never cracks nor does it pull 
apart after being sewed. 

The less lime that is used in preparing the skins the 



SHEEPSKINS : ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 53 

better, and as no acids are used in the process, the fibres of 
the skins are left in their natural state and strength. 

Another process of preparing sheepskins for linings, bindings 

and similar purposes, 
Is carried out as follows : The pelts are depilated in the 
usual manner and then limed for a few days in weak limes. 
For tanning six dozen sheepskins the following composition 
is used : Eighteen pounds of salt, two pounds of sulphuric 
acid, thirty-six pounds of sumac or quercitron bark, two 
ounces hydrochloric acid and one hundred gallons of water. 
The strength of the sumac or bark is extracted with hot 
water, then the salt is added, and finally the acids, and the 
whole mixture is thoroughly incorporated by stirring. The 
skins are treated to this solution in a paddle-vat, although 
a drum may also be used, and after tanning they are hung 
up and dried out, then moistened back and either blacked 
or colored or left white and finished by working and 
ironing. 

1o produce quickly and cheaply a soft, tough leather from 
sheepskins, 
Suitable for gloves and mittens, or any other purpose where 
a soft, tough leather is required, the following mixture may 
be used : Seven pounds of either alum or sulphate of alu- 
mina, three pounds of glauber salt, four pounds of common 
salt, ten gallons of soft water, five pounds of ground sumac, 
three pounds of oak bark, one pound of nutgalls and four 
ounces of sulphuric acid. In preparing the mixture, the 
alum, glauber salt and common salt are dissolved in the 
water, then the sumac, oak bark and nutgalls are added 
and boiled briskly for twenty minutes, then such mixture, 
while hot, is strained, and the four ounces of acid are added 
and the mixture thoroughly stirred. The liquor is prefer- 
ably used warm, at blood heat, and the skins treated therein 
for a period of twenty-four hours, being stirred about for 
one hour, and then allowed to rest in the liquor for the 



54 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

remainder of the time, being stirred about occasionally. 
The process can also be carried out in drums and the skins 
drummed in the liquor for one hour and then allowed to 
drain for a few hours. 

Upon coming from the liquor the skins are given a thor- 
ough striking out upon both the flesh and the grain sides 
with a glass slicker. This is followed by a moderately heavy 
coat of lard or neatsfoot oil applied to both sides. Then the 
skins are hung up in a warm room and allowed to dry, thus 
completing the process. By the use of the mixture de- 
scribed, skins can be tanned very quickly and cheaply and 
the resulting leather can be colored any shade. The leather 
is, to quite a degree, impervious to moisture. Before apply- 
ing the oil, which should be warm, the water should be 
thoroughly struck out of the skins. The leather should be 
worked as it dries, the working and drying continued until 
the skins are thoroughly dry and soft. 

The following process is especially adapted to sheepskin 
fleshers, 

To be used in the manufacture of gloves, for bindings, etc. 
The quantities of tanning materials mentioned are sufficient 
for two dozen fleshers of ordinary size. The fleshers are 
immersed, stirred about and pounded for about thirty min- 
utes in a fluid prepared as follows : One pound of alum is 
dissolved in one and one-half gallons of water which is 
readily done by boiling. Then in another vessel are mixed 
one-half pound of flour and one-half pound of oatmeal or 
one pound of either alone, with one gill of oil and one and 
one-half gallons of water, and this mixture is mixed with 
the alum solution. The tanning materials may be applied 
to the skins in a drum, and at the end of thirty minutes the 
skins are taken out of the drum. They are then immersed 
for thirty minutes, either in a vat, tub or drum, in a fluid 
mixture composed of one gill of ammonia, one-half of a bar 
of soap, one -half ounce of soda, one-half pound of salt and 



SHEEPSKINS I ALUM, OIL AND NAPA. 55 

about two ounces of whiting or ochre, all boiled in one and 
a half gallons of water. To this solution is added either one 
pound of flour or one pound of oatmeal mixed in one and 
one-half gallons of water, and the fleshers drummed in the 
mixture for thirty minutes, after which they are dried, 
worked soft and finished upon either the grain or the flesh 
side. The skins dressed in this manner are very soft and 
pliable, with much elasticity, and strength of fibre without 
roughness. 

After the skins have been treated to the first part of the 
process they may be dried, staked and finished on either or 
both sides without being subjected to the second part of the 
process, and when this is done they are of very good quality 
and susceptible of taking a very nice finish. Yet it is pre- 
ferable to use the entire process in dressing the skins, as 
they are thus given a superior quality and a capacity for a 
better finish than when only the first part is used, and when 
finished they bear a close resemblance to castor or mocha 
glove leather. 

In order to get the skins soft and elastic, and at the same 
time tough and strong, it is necessary that they be handled 
in such a way in the early processes of the beamhouse as to 
prevent any loss of substance or strength. The use of sul- 
phide of sodium in removing the wool shortens the time 
consumed in the preparation of the skins and at the same 
time helps to make tough and soft leather. A liming of 
from six to eight days is generally sufficient for heavy skins, 
and after the liming is completed the drenching should be 
carefully done. The bran drench produces a very soft skin, 
as does also lactic acid, the latter article being very simple 
and safe to use. 

The drenching may be done in a drum, about three 
quarts of acid being used in one hundred gallons of warm 
water and the skins drummed or milled for not longer than 
thirty minutes. 



56 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Sheepskin fieshers may also be tanned by any of the chrome 

processes, 
And after tanning should be well fat-liquored. A good 
practice is to add a solution of flour and water to the fat- 
liquor. This increases the fullness of the leather as well as 
its strength and softness. Very good leather can also be 
made from the fieshers by tanning them in a mixture of 
alum, salt, oil and flour, then drying them out and working 
them soft by staking. The softness of alum-tanned skins is 
produced by a mixture of egg yolk and olive oil mixed with 
the alum and salt or applied after tanning. The longer the 
tanned skins lie in dry condition before being worked out 
and finished, the softer and finer will be the texture of the 
finished stock. 

When the fieshers are received by the tanner in pickled 
condition they require a drenching in sour bran and salt 
in order to remove from them the acid before they are 
treated with the alum and salt process. 



CHAPTER IV. 

WOOLSKINS. 

THE TANNING OF SHEARLINGS, SHEEP PELTS FOR MITTENS, 
RUGS AND SIMILAR PURPOSES. 

The tanning of sheepskins with the wool on, for rugs, 
mittens, linings and similar purposes, is not a very compli- 
cated process. Yet in order to get the best results at low 
cost, some attention, of course, must be given to the details 
of the work. All useless parts of the skins should be cut 
off and the skins soaked for a few hours in water and then 
fleshed. One good method of tanning the skins is carried 
out as follows : Mix to a paste with a little water, and dis- 
solve half an ounce each of borax, saltpeter and glauber 
salts for each skin. Spread this with a brush over the flesh 
of the skins, using it more freely on the thicker portions. 
Double or fold the skin together with the wool on the out- 
side, and leave it in a cool place for twenty-four hours. Wash 
each skin very clean and apply in the same manner a mix- 
ture of half an ounce each of borax or sal soda, two ounces 
of hard white soap, melted together but not allowed to boil. 
Fold the skin wool side out and leave it in a warm place 
twenty-four hours. Dissolve a quarter of a pound of alum, 
half a pound of salt and two ounces of soda in enough hot 
water to saturate each skin. When the hands can be borne 
in the solution, put in the skins and leave them in twenty- 
four hours, then wring them out and hang them up to dry. 
Work the skins as they dry until they become at once dry 
and soft. Finish up the skins upon an emery wheel and 
then rub them with pumice stone. 

(57) 



58 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

To color the skins 
Stretch them tightly, skin side down, upon a smooth board, 
and tack firmly, then lower the board into the bath of pre- 
pared dyestuff so that the wool only is exposed to the dye. 
Before coloring the skins wash the wool thoroughly with 
soapsuds and then rinse out the suds with clear water. 
After coloring rinse the skins with water and dry them out. 
When white wool is wanted, it may be bleached with brim- 
stone, as will be described later on. 

Another process, 
Somewhat different from the foregoing, but equally as good, 
is the following : Soak the fresh skins in soft water for 
twenty-four hours, then flesh thoroughly to remove grease, 
flesh and blood. Then work the skins in warm soapsuds 
and rinse in clean water until the wool is clean. Spread 
the skins, flesh side up, and apply to them a mixture of 
salt, alum, saltpetre and bran. This may consist of one 
pound of salt, half a pound of pulverized alum, half pound 
saltpeter and twice the bulk of the whole of bran. Fold 
the skins up tightly and let them lie in a cool place for a 
number of days, the longer the better, then scrape off the 
mixture, dry out the skins and work them soft. The skins 
are made very soft and white, by being tanned in a mixture 
of bran, salt and alum in this manner : Mix bran and soft 
water sufficient to cover the skins. Immerse the skins and 
keep them covered for twenty-four hours, then remove, wash 
clean and carefully remove all flesh. To one gallon of hot 
water add one pound of alum and one- quarter pound of 
salt. When dissolved and cool enough to admit entrance 
of the hand, immerse the skins for twenty-four hours, then 
dry them out. Stir the liquor again, immerse the skins and 
leave them for twenty-four hours, then dry them again and 
work them soft. 

A tanning solution may also be prepared 
Of ten gallons water, one-half bushel wheat bran, seven 



WOOLSKINS. 59 

pounds salt, four pounds alum and two pounds of sulphuric 
acid. Dissolve and mix these ingredients together and then 
place the washed skins in the liquor. Allow them to re- 
main in the liquor from twelve to twenty-four hours ; the 
longer they are left in, the better tanned they will be. Then 
let them drain well, and then dry them out and work them 
soft. Usually alum-tanned sheepskins dry out soft without 
any oil being required. The softness may be increased by 
applying to the flesh side a coat of oil before the skins are 
dried out. A paste may be made of the ingredients men- 
tioned above and this spread evenly over the flesh side, and 
then the skins allowed to lie some hours, and then dried 
and worked soft. When a liquor is used it is necessary to 
wash the wool before the skins are colored and finished. 

Sheep pelts with the wool on may also be tanned 

In the following manner : The pelts should be thoroughly 
washed in warm soapsuds, and fleshed, and well rinsed in 
clear water before they are tanned. When the pelts are 
well cleaned and scoured make a brine of common salt at 
blood heat until no more will dissolve. Then prepare a 
quantity of mucilage by passing hot water through a fine 
sack filled with clean wheat bran. Also dissolve a small 
quantity of starch in warm water. Let the brine, mucilage 
and starch water settle until quite clear, then pour them 
carefully together into a wooden or earthen vessel of suffi- 
cient dimensions to give free motion to the pelts when 
they are stirred. When a large number of skins are being 
handled vats or tubs should be used. Prepare a strong alum 
solution, and dip the pelts in this several times or let them 
lie therein for two hours. The liquor should be warm. 
Then rinse the pelts free from the alum water and wring 
or press them as dry as possible. When all is ready pour 
into the vat the mixture of brine and mucilage, at blood heat ; 
add a small quantity of sulphuric acid, (two pounds of acid 
to ten gallons of water or mixture,) and put the pelts in 



GO PRACTICAL TANNING. 

quickly, stirring them as briskly as possible for a few 
minutes. Then take the pelts out, let them drain, and 
then scrape the flesh as dry as possible, and then put them 
back in process for one hour. Be careful to have the mix- 
ture touch every part of the skins. Hang the pelts in a 
dry room until they become dry enough to pull out white 
when they are pulled or stretched in any direction. Con- 
tinue the pulling and working while the pelts are drying, 
as a great deal depends upon the skins being worked when 
they are just dry enough to pull out white when stretched, 
and by continuing the stretching and pulling until the 
skins are thoroughly dry and soft. When the pelts are 
dry they should be beamed with a dull knife and finished 
upon the flesh side by being polished with coarse sand- 
paper. 

The following is a cheap and simple method of preparing sheep- 
pelts with the wool on. 

Make a strong lather of soap and hot water. Let it stand 
until it becomes cool. If the pelts are saltj^, soak them be- 
fore washing, for a few hours in water until the salt is dis- 
solved. Then wash them in the soapsuds, picking from 
the wool all the dirt and burrs that will come off. A little 
paraffine, or turpentine — a teaspoonful of either — to three 
gallons of water will help in removing the impurities. 
Wash the pelts thoroughly in the soapsuds and squeeze the 
wool until it is quite clean. Then wash them in clean, 
warm water until all the soap is removed. Dissolve for 
each skin one pound of salt and one pound of alum in two 
gallons of hot water, and mix the liquor with sufficient 
water to cover the skins in a tub or vat. Let the skins 
soak in the liquor for twenty-four hours and stir them 
about occasionally. Then remove them from the liquor 
and allow them to drain thoroughly. When they are well 
drained they should be stretched on boards or hung up 
until dried out. Before they become quite dry they should 



WOOLSKINS. 61 

be sprinkled on the flesh side with a mixture of pulverized 
alum and saltpetre well rubbed into the skin. These 
articles may also be dissolved and applied to the skin in 
liquid form. Try the wool to see if it is firm upon the 
grain ; if not, let the pelts remain a day or two longer in 
the alum and salt liquor and then dry them out again. 
Dry them in a warm room, and work and stretch them 
occasionally as they dry until they become thoroughly soft 
and dry. To remove the salt and alum from the wool, the 
pelt should be stretched out and the wool washed with a 
solution of soap and water, after which it may be bleached 
with sulphur. The pelts may also be tanned, after washing 
and rinsing, in a solution composed of glauber salt, borax 
and salt. Leave skins in this mixture for twenty-four 
hours, then dry them out as above suggested. 

The salt and alum used in tanning sheep pelts have the 
effect upon the dirt and grease in the wool to set them and 
thus to make it very difficult to remove them after tanning. 
For this reason the pelts require to be thoroughly washed 
before they are tanned, and at the same time they must be 
watched and washed carefully so that the wool will not start 
or become loosened. 

During a process of alum and salt tanning the pelts should 
be handled about in the liquid so that all spots will become 
uniformly tanned. When tanned they should be allowed 
to drain, and may then be painted upon the flesh with a 
paste made of flour, salt, alum and water. The ingredients 
should be boiled until the paste thickens, and after it be- 
comes cool the paste is spread on, and well rubbed into 
the flesh. The skins are next folded up and placed in piles 
for a day or longer until thoroughly tanned. The entire 
process may be carried out without tubs or vats, the skins 
being painted every day for three days until they are com- 
pletely tanned. The scouring of the wool after tanning 
should be done on a table built for the purpose. The pelts 
are laid on the table flesh side down and struck out smooth 



62 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

with a copper slicker, to prevent the washing out of any 
of the tannage. For scouring the wool, suds made of 
water, soft soap, soda-ash and salt are used. The strength 
of the suds must be determined by the condition of the wool 
as regards grease and dirt. Too strong suds not only 
darken the wool but render it rough and harsh. In the 
washing of the pelts before tanning soft water should be 
used. Borax added to the water not only helps in the 
cleansing but gives a soft feel to the wool. 

For white woolskins the alum and salt tannage is used, 
as this does not color the wool ; but when the wool is to 
be colored fancy shades or black, other processes may be 
used. When bark is used as a tannage the wool becomes 
darkened, and turns into a golden brown when it is scoured. 

Some sheepskins are very greasy, much more so than 
others, and these greasy skins sometimes take the tawing 
materials very slowly. A great deal of trouble is met with 
because of the grease in the pelts. Very often the grease 
comes through upon the wool after the pelts are cut up into 
finished articles ; at other times the grease causes trouble by 
staining the lining and making a bad odor. The greasy 
skins should be ver}^ thoroughly washed and beamed be- 
fore they are tanned. A weak alkali liquor helps to remove 
the grease. In the case of very heavy and greasy skins 
it is sometimes necessary to treat them with naphtha. 
Usually tanners have not the facilities for doing this work, 
and the skins are sent to men who make a business of re- 
moving grease from skins tanned with the hair or wool on. 

To tan the skins in bark extract they should be soaked 
and washed in warm soapsuds and then rinsed in clear 
water in order to get them as clean as possible. The tan- 
ning liquor is made up of salt, alum and extract. Hemlock 
is largely used, although others give just as good results. 
The pelts are left in the liquor one day, then hauled out 
and drained, and the liquor in the vat strengthened by the 
addition of a few pailfuls of dissolved extract. It is good 



WOOLSKINS. 63 

practice, as it helps in the tanning, and to give the skins a 
velvety feel to add to the liquor a pailful of dissolved soft 
soap or potash soap. The complaint most commonly made 
against skins tanned in alum and salt is that they become 
moist and heavy on a wet day. For this reason bark 
tanned skins are often preferred to alum tanned as they are 
not readily affected by moisture. 

The skins should be hauled out of the liquor every day 
until the liquor has struck through from flesh to grain. 
Thorough tanning is necessary if soft tough skins are 
wanted. When the tanning is completed the pelts should 
be well drained and then oiled. Neatsfoot oil is good, but 
somewhat costly for the work, and cheap mineral oil is al- 
most as good as neatsfoot. In place of the hemlock extract 
any other extract may be used, also combinations of differ- 
ent extracts. Gambier is a good tanning material for this 
class of goods. The process may be used as a two-bath 
process, by first applying the alum and salt, and then the 
tan liquor. Skins tanned by any of these processes are 
readily colored any dark shade or black. To get the wool 
clean and free from grease so that it will readily take the 
color,' requires a thorough washing and cleansing. A de- 
sirable shade of brown results when the wool is thoroughly 
washed and dried and finished without coloring. 

The first step is to rinse the skins to get rid of particles 
of dirt and dust. The scouring suds may be very strong 
and well and evenly rubbed into the wool to get even re- 
sults. The effect of this scouring is to leave the wool a dark 
brown color. When this is considered too dark and a light 
golden color is wanted, the pelts after scouring, are thor- 
oughly washed with clean water to get rid of suds, and 
then treated to a sour liquor made of water and sulphuric 
acid. Enough acid is required to give the liquor a sharp, 
sour taste. This liquor is spread evenly over the skin until 
all parts of the wool come in contact with it, after which the 
wool is again rinsed off and wrung or pressed and the pelts 
hung up and dried again. 



64 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

To bleach the wool on alum-tanned sheepskins. 
For this purpose nothing is better than brimstone. The 
pelts to be bleached must be uniformly moist, wool and skin, 
and hung on sticks in a large vat or hogshead. In the 
bottom of the vat or hogshead, the brimstone is placed in a 
kettle. Live coals are required to start the burning of the 
brimstone. The vat or hogshead should be kept covered 
during the operation to keep the smoke in. If the first 
operation does not bleach sufficiently white, the work may 
be done a second time. A caution to be observed is not to 
allow the skins to come too close to the fire. 

A very simple and effective method of removing the grease from 

sheep pelts 
Is carried out as follows : When the pelts are taken from 
the tanning liquor of alum and salt and before they have 
been dried out, they are tacked out upon boards and plas- 
tered upon the flesh side with a paste of whiting. The 
whiting is simply mixed with water until a thick paste 
results and this is spread evenly over the skin. As the 
skin dries the whiting draws out the grease, which 
shows a dark leaden color through the paste. The coat of 
plaster should be scraped off and removed again and again 
until all the grease is fully absorbed. It is sometimes nec- 
essary to give five and even six applications of the paste 
before the grease is entirely removed. After becoming free 
from the grease, wash off the paste and apply to the flesh a 
mixture of two parts alum and three parts common salt. 
This may be in strong liquid form and should be applied 
two or three times. Then dry the pelts out and work them 
soft. 

Woolshins are also very cheaply tanned in the following 

manner : 

First the sheep pelt should be washed or soaked for a few 

hours in clean water, preferably warm, and then fleshed, 

by which all fleshy particles are removed from the inner or 



WOOLSKINS. 65 

flesh side and the loose dirt removed from the wool side. 
Next the pelt should be washed in warm soapsuds. For 
this the old-fashioned soft soap made from wood ashes is 
best, although any soap may be used. Rub the pelt either 
by hand in the soap suds or on a washboard. As soon as 
the pelt is clean rinse it in clean water, and press out as 
much of the water as possible. Then the following mixture 
should be prepared and applied to the flesh side. One- 
fourth ounce each of common salt and ground alum, and 
one-half ounce of borax dissolved in one quart of hot water. 
When sufficiently cool to work with the hands, add enough 
rye meal to make a thick paste. Spread the mixture on 
the flesh side, fold the pelt and let it lie for two weeks in a 
cool, moist place. Then wash the pelt in warm water so as 
to remove the paste. The pelt may now be dyed any shade 
or left the natural color, and when nearly dry the flesh side 
should be scraped with a dull knife and the skin worked 
until soft and pliable. Comb the wool when it is dry. 

Another method somewhat speedier 
And just as reliable as the foregoing is the following : For 
one sheepskin one pound of salt, half pound of alum, two 
tablespoonfuls of saltpetre. Soak the skin in clean water 
and then spread it out on a smooth surface. Rub the mix- 
ture well into the flesh side, turn the head to the tail, leav- 
ing the wool side out, roll smoothly and let it lie for four or 
five days. Then scrape the flesh and make it clean and 
wash the wool carefully with soapsuds so as to remove all 
grease and fatty matter. Work the pelt thoroughly while 
it is drying and it will finish up soft and pliable. The 
solution of salt and alum may also be made up in a tub or 
vat and the pelts left therein with occasional stirring for 
about two days, then dried out. 

WOOL-WASHING SOAP. 

A good soap, useful in washing wool and freeing it 
5 



66 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

of grease, can be best prepared from olive and cochin 
cocoanut oils. Seventeen hundred and sixty pounds of 
olive oil are boiled to a grain with caustic soda lye. After 
the soap has separated and the lye has been drawn off, nine- 
teen hundred and sixty pounds of potash solution of 20° Be\ 
are added and allowed to boil a little. Now four hundred 
and forty pounds of cochin oil are added, and when well 
taken up the same quantity of potash solution of 20° Be. is 
gradually added as the soap can take it up. 

A cheaper and less valuable soap commonly used for 
washing wool is also easy to prepare. Seventeen hundred 
and sixty pounds of elaine and four hundred and forty 
pounds of tallow are boiled to a grain, the precise method 
of boiling being immaterial provided a good firm grain is 
obtained. In another kettle a soda solution is prepared 
of 30° Be. Now take 220 pounds of this soda solution, 
place it in a shallow kettle with 440 pounds of the grain 
soap, stir well and then add, with constant stirring, 220 
pounds of dry soda. In this way a thick paste is obtained, 
which is allowed to cool in the pan and is removed after 
forty-eight hours with a chisel. This is broken up into 
small pieces of the size of an egg and is ready for use. 

This is also a very satisfactory method of tanning sheepskins 
with wool on, shearlings, etc. 

The skins should be well soaked in water and then 
fleshed. They are then laid on a table, flesh side down, 
and the wool washed thoroughly with a strong solution 
of soap and soda. When the wool is free from grease it is 
rinsed in pure warm water until it is perfectly clean. The 
tanning is then proceeded with by putting the skins into a 
tub and covering them with alum liquor, keeping them 
well stirred about so that the alum can penetrate every 
portion. For this from one to two days are required, the 
strength of the liquor being increased each ten or twelve 
hours. For this liquor a stock solution is first prepared by 



WOOLSKINS. 67 

dissolving thirty-three pounds of alum in sixty-five gallons 
of water and then adding about twenty pounds of salt. 
For the bath, as much of the alum and salt solution is 
used as will give the liquor a sharp salty taste. The exact 
quantity is a matter of small importance. The skins 
should be given plenty of room and not be crowded into 
the tub. When fully tanned they are laid over a beam 
and allowed to drain for some hours. When sufficiently 
dry they are laid in piles on a table, flesh side up, and are 
brushed over lightly with a fat-liquor, consisting of soap 
and oil, or soap and grease. If the skins are to be white 
they are hung in a tight chamber, or hogshead, and 
bleached with sulphur, and are then hung up and dried 
out. If they are to be dyed, aniline colors should be used, 
but the dye must be applied before the fat-liquoring. The 
most important requisite in dyeing the wool is that it 
should be free from grease. This may be accomplished by 
scouring the wool in a mixture of soft soap and water, to 
which a little soda has been added. The soda ash has a 
tendency of making the wool somewhat harsh, but the 
addition of a little salt will obviate this and also save the 
workman's hands from becoming sore in the liquor. Some 
bleaching effect is also obtained from the use of the salt. 
The wool must be thoroughly washed free from all the 
soap. 

The best way to scour the alumed pelts 

Is on a table. In this way the flesh side is protected some- 
what from the water, and none of the alum is washed out. 
The wool is well scoured with the soap solution until every 
part is thoroughly cleansed, then it is thoroughly washed 
in clear water. When the wool is to be dyed black or dark 
colors it is not necessary that it should be perfectly clean. 
When light colors are wanted the wool should be bleached 
with sulphur fumes. A seal brown may be obtained with 
gambier, the skins being left in the liquor until they acquire 



68 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the desired shade. Then they are passed through a solu- 
tion of bichromate of potash and then rinsed in cold water. 
They are then dried out, worked soft, and if it is required 
the flesh side is smoothed off on an emery wheel. 

To accomplish the bleaching of sheep pelts, lambskins and goat- 
skins tanned with the wool and hair on, 
The following method may be used : The tanned skins are 
first thoroughly washed in warm soapsuds, and then rinsed 
off in clear water. Four and one-half pounds of chloride of 
lime mixed with thorough stirring into twenty-one quarts 
of water. The mixture should be allowed to stand until it 
has settled. The clear liquor is then drawn off into a solu- 
tion of ten and one-half quarts of water, in which have 
been dissolved five and one-half pounds of glauber salt. A 
precipitation results which leaves hypochlorite of soda in 
solution. The clear liquor, which should be quite free 
from lime, is then drawn off, and the skins immersed 
therein until they are thoroughly bleached, which takes 
about two days. When they are sufficiently bleached the 
skins should be washed out, and then washed in a solution 
of white oil soap in order to give them the necessary soft 
feel. 

Permanganate of potash and bisulphite of soda may also 
be used for bleaching. The skins are washed and cleaned 
and then immersed in a bath of permanganate of potash 
made up in the proportions of one and one-tenth pounds of 
the potash in one hundred and thirty gallons of water 
heated to 95° F. In this solution the skins are worked for 
one hour, and at the end of this time they are removed and 
placed without rinsing in a bath of bisulphite of soda, made 
up of one-hundred and thirty gallons of warm water, seven 
and one-third quarts of bisulphite of soda, and six and five- 
eighths pounds of hydrochloric acid. In this liquor they 
are worked until they are sufficiently bleached. 



CHAPTER V. 

SHEEPSKINS. 

BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS TANNING. 

Large numbers of sheepskins are tanned in bark and 
extract liquors, and used as lining material. Various tan- 
nages are used in making this class of leather. Hemlock 
is largely used, also combinations of hemlock and other 
tans. When a combination liquor is used, one extract 
supplements the other. Palmetto extract makes soft, 
tough leather, well filled, and of good color. Being a rapid 
tanner it works well with slow tannages. A good method 
of using palmetto extract is in drums, sheepskins becoming 
thoroughly tanned with it inside of three hours. The 
coloring of the skins with the tannage may be begun in a 
paddle vat, and the tanning completed in a drum. A 
running for one hour in a paddle vat suffices to color the 
skins and to begin the tanning. After the tanning is com- 
pleted the skins are washed, pressed, shaved and finished 
either with or without coloring. This tannage also works 
well with a chrome process. 

When pickled skins are being tanned in bark or extract 
liquors, fairly weak liquors are used. The skins are left in 
the liquors simply long enough to become well colored and 
struck through, and are then dried out and finished. In 
the drying of this class of leather the skins are usually 
tacked on boards in moist condition and left thereon until 
they are dry. 

The softness of the leather is generally produced by the 
nature of the tannage, and the smoothness and quality of 
the grain by the methods used in preparing the skins for 
tanning. 

(69) 



70 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

A dull finish is obtained by ironing or rolling the leather 
before it is quite dry, and in this way the grain is laid down 
smooth. Hot irons are used, and unless the workman is 
careful the iron may be too hot and burn the leather. 
Vegetable tanned skins cannot stand much heat ;' the grain 
becoming very brittle when too much is used and they 
readily crack and break in handling. 

A combination tannage 

Two-thirds of which is quebracho liquor and one-third hem- 
lock liquor produces very good leather. The length of time 
consumed in tanning skins in this tannage is very short. 
The leather is well filled, soft and of good texture, while 
the color is light and uniform, and more satisfactory than 
the color of hemlock tanned leather after it is bleached. 
When colored leather is desired the tanned skins can be 
easily colored any shade by the use of aniline dyes. 

Very excellent leather is made by combining a chrome and a 
vegetable tannage. 

Gambier is often used to supplement the chrome tannage, 
but palmetto extract is better. The skins may be milled 
in a drum in palmetto liquor and then finished up in 
chrome, or they may be retanned in palmetto liquor after 
the chrome process is completed. The palmetto liquor 
serves to neutralize any acid in the leather, and also to 
serve as a mordant for any color or for black. In applying 
this process to a lot of chrome-tanned sheepskins the follow- 
ing proportions may be used : For one thousand pounds of 
chrome tanned skins one gallon of palmetto extract and a 
gill of glycerine in sufficient warm water at a temperature of 
90° F., to either paddle the skins in or to drum them in a pin- 
mill drum. This method of tanning makes the leather 
more solid than the pure chrome tannage, and the grain 
does not peel. 

For light colored leather it is alwaj^s best for the tanner 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 71 

to remove the acid from pickled skins before tanning them. 
While the skins tan readily in some liquors when they are 
full of acid, for leather of superior quality, fine clear grain 
and good color, the acid should be removed from the skins 
before they are tanned. A drench of whiting and salt may 
be used for the purpose, also a drench of sour bran and 
salt. The pickled skins after being softened in salt water 
may also be given the bath of whiting and salt, and then 
left for a few minutes in the liquor of bran and salt. 

Palmetto extract may be used in combination with que- 
bracho, also with hemlock ; in fact it works well with any 
tannage. However, the combination of quebracho and 
hemlock is, of all processes, really the most desirable. For 
lining purposes the skins may be left in the natural color 
of the tannage, and when colored leather is wanted they 
may readily be colored any shade. Sheepskins tanned by 
any vegetable process or combination process may be 
bleached by the methods described in another part of this 
book. 

THE COLORING AND FINISHING OF VEGETABLE TANNED SKINS. 

Sheepskins that have been tanned in a vegetable tannage 
such as bark, sumac, gambier and similar tannages are 
usually dried out after tanning and before they are colored. 
When they are to be colored they require a moistening and 
washing before they are colored in order to remove from 
them all dirt, dust, and particles of tannin that have not 
combined with the leather. At the same time the washing 
serves to moisten and soften the skins and thus to put them 
in the right condition to receive the mordants and dyes. 
When the washing is properly done the shades are made 
clear, full and deep. When the dried skins are immersed 
in the dye bath without sufficient washing many defects 
will be noticed in the finished leather. The color cannot 
penetrate nor combine with the fibres and the result in color- 
ing is decidedly unsatisfactory. 



72 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The dry skins may be moistened in a tub and left in 
piles for some hours until they have become sufficiently 
soft, or they may be moistened in pin-mill drums. The 
water used for this work should be soft and warm, as 
such water has much greater softening and cleansing powers 
than cold or hard water. A safe temperature is from eighty- 
five to ninety-five degrees. To some extent the amount of 
treatment required by a lot of skins to bring them into the 
required condition depends upon the character of the skins 
and the nature of the tannage. Very light skins that have 
been tanned in a soft tannage require very little treat- 
ment, but very careful handling, while heavy and firmer 
tanned skins demand a much more thorough preparation. 

The use of hard water 

Has the effect of causing a faded and dingy appearance to 
the shades of color, and when such water is used in dis- 
solving aniline dyes it often happens that a portion of the 
dyestuff settles to the bottom of the vessel in the form of a 
soft mass. This causes imperfect coloring. It is also im- 
perative that the water be clean and free from dirt and 
other foreign substances. The evil effects of hard water 
may be prevented and such water rendered suitable for 
coloring purposes by adding to it a small quantity of acetic 
acid. Borax is also used and helps in giving a soft feel to 
the leather. The quantity of borax required depends upon 
the condition of the water, but as a general thing one-half 
pound is enough for one hundred gallons of water, dissolved 
in a separate vessel and poured into the water to be used 
for coloring. 

A very important element that is often overlooked is 
cleanliness. Every vessel or utensil used should be per- 
fectly clean and free from foreign matter. A very small 
quantity of foreign matter causes a change in the dyestuff, 
especially when aniline colors are used. When brushes 
are used they should be kept clean and a separate brush 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 73 

used for each liquor used. Too much care cannot be taken 
in this particular. All tables and cloths used by the dyer 
should be kept clean. 

Skins that have acquired a dark shade 
From the tannage should be given the dark shades of dye. 
When lighter shades are wanted the leather must be toned 
down or bleached. One of the most common methods is 
to draw the leather several times through a warm sumac 
liquor, or they may be left in such liquor several hours or 
drummed in it in a drum. Some of the tannins in general 
use contain quantities of coloring matter, and these exert 
an influence upon the colors. Sumac contains very little 
coloring matter, and is, therefore, commonly used in tan- 
ning skins intended for light shades. In some instances 
when the color of the leather is dark to begin with, advan- 
tage may be taken of the color and less dye materials used. 

Lactic acid is a very good article to use in coloring sheepskins. 
It not only serves the purpose of cleaning the leather of 
grease, but. also acts as a mordant when used in connection 
with bichromate of potash. In fifty gallons of warm water 
dissolve two pounds of bichromate of potash and one-half 
gallon of lactic acid. The liquor is used as a mordant and 
as a striker. On light colors it is preferable to use it at the 
end of the dyeing operation as a striker and evener. In the 
case of dark colors such as chocolates, browns, dark tans, 
etc., it may be used in preparing the leather for the colors. 
The skins should be uniformly moistened and softened with 
water, and then milled in a solution of lactic acid, about 
one gallon to fifty gallons of warm water, for thirty minutes. 
It is generally necessary to wash the skins off in warm 
water before coloring when the basic or sweet aniline dyes 
are used, but when sour anilines are used no washing is re- 
quired, the skins receiving the dye immediately after the 
acid treatment. By first milling the skins in an acid 
liquor, dyers are enabled to get clearer and more uniform 



74 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

colors, as this operation not only clears the grain of greasy 
matter, but also opens it up, thus allowing deeper penetra- 
tion of the dyestuff. For some dark colors it is wise to use 
a solution of the acid solution, then to follow it with the 
color solution and to strike with copperas. 

Sorting the skins. 

Before the work of coloring is begun, the skins should be 
sorted according to texture and weight. All skins of firm 
and dense substance should be sorted out from the loose, 
light and open-grained skins, and each class colored separ- 
ately. The clear and fine-grained skins should be given 
the fancy shades, and the skins that show any defects or 
imperfections given the dark shades. Some small defects 
that might not appear on dark-colored leather are often 
plainly seen on light shades. The more serious the defect 
the darker should be the shade given. 

Applying the dye and finishing the leather. 
It is a good plan to have a sufficient number of skins 
tanned and dried ahead, so that they can lie in the dry 
state some time before they are colored. The longer they 
lie in the dry state the better will be the final result. After 
the coloring process is finished, the skins should be finished 
as soon as possible. The finishing processes frequently 
change the shade of the leather, and it is therefore very im- 
portant that the dyer knows just how much dye a lot of 
skins need in order for them to come through the right 
shade. Various methods may be employed. The leather 
may be brush-dyed on tables, passed through dye-boxes or 
treated in drums. When the coloring is done on tables, 
the skins are spread out grain side up and struck out with 
a slicker so that they lie perfectly smooth. After the right 
shade is obtained the leather is washed off and dried out. 
Soft sponges fastened to handles may be used instead of 
brushes. When the coloring is done in paddle-vats the 
skins are paddled for twenty minutes in each of the liquors 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 75 

used, enough of each being used to enable the skins to float 
and turn in the liquor. More water is of course required, and 
more time consumed by this method than when drums are 
used. When the leather is dyed in drums the skins should 
first be drummed in the clearing or mordanting liquor and 
then for the same length of time in the color and striking 
liquors, after which they are washed off and finished. The 
leather should be dried out in a darkened room. When it 
is hung in a strong light the color frequently fades. The 
temperature of the room should be maintained at a uniform 
degree, and the leather dried rapidly, but not so rapidly as 
to parch it. Many of the troubles encountered by dyers in 
coloring leathers are the result of improper methods of 
handling the skins in the processes that come before the 
coloring. Much can be gained by giving these processes 
close and careful attention. 

Before coloring the leather with aniline dyes 

It is good practice, after it has been moistened and washed, 
to drum it in a warm sumac liquor. This serves to freshen 
up the stock and for it readily to receive the dye liquor. For 
medium and large sheepskins it usually requires about four 
ounces of the liquid extract of sumac in sufficient water to 
cover the skins. In this liquor the skins are drummed for 
twenty minutes. Then is applied to the same bath two 
ounces per dozen of antimonine and the drumming con- 
tinued for fifteen or twenty minutes longer. After this the 
skins are rinsed off in warm water and the coloring bath 
prepared. From two to three ounces of aniline dye are 
usually required for each dozen skins at a temperature of 
one hundred degrees. After coloring the leather is washed 
off and dried out. The use of the antimonine is for the 
purpose of cleaning the grain of the leather, overcoming 
the uncombined tannin and fixing the dye upon the fibre, 
so that nothing further is needed to set the colors. In place 
of sumac, fustic may be used when it is considered necessary 



76 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

to use a mordant. Usually, however, this class of leather, 
that is to say bark and extract tanned sheepskins, 
requires no mordant, as the tannic acid in the tannage 
serves the purpose of a mordant. Vegetable-tanned skins 
are colored a large variety of shades. 

Desirable shades. 
Some of the most desirable of the shades are ox-blood or 
wine color, chocolate, tans, browns and greens. For the 
ox -blood shade about three ounces of the aniline amaranth, 
3/R, for each dozen skins are used. For a desirable choco- 
late shade, for each dozen skins from two and one-half to 
three ounces of aniline chocolate brown 270, produces the 
right results. The leather is first cleared of grease and 
then the dye applied. The drum method is usually pre- 
ferred as it produces the most uniform coloring. By mix- 
ing an amaranth or ox-blood shade with a chocolate- 
brown, a dark and very desirable shade of ox-blood is 
produced. The temperature of the drum should be main- 
tained during the process of coloring at ninety to one 
hundred degrees Fah. The dyes should be thoroughly 
boiled and then cooled down to the right temperature 
before they are used. To insure even coloring the skins 
must be kept in motion while the color solution is being 
added to them. 

For a desirable shade of green 
Apply to the skins, after they have been washed and soft- 
ened, two ounces of antimonine for each dozen skins, and 
follow this with three ounces of leather green, or of dark 
green, M, and one ounce of amaranth. Bark and gambier- 
tanned skins should be freshened up in sumac before the 
antimonine is added. The skins may also be colored by 
being drummed in a solution of bichromate of potash, made 
up of one ounce of potash in three gallons of warm water 
for each dozen skins, and this is followed by the aniline 
dye. Finally, there are added to the skins one ounce 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 77 

of bichromate of potash and one-half ounce copperas, and 
the skins are drummed fifteen minutes longer. 
In dyeing bark tanned leather black 
Logwood is generally used in connection with an iron 
liquor or striker. To fifty gallons of water about five 
pounds of logwood product in powder form and one pound 
of sal soda are added and boiled. The moistened skins 
may be drummed in this liquor until the color is well taken 
up, then they are spread upon a table and the striker ap- 
plied to the grain. A good striker may be made of fifteen 
pounds of copperas and five pounds of blue vitriol boiled in 
fifty gallons of water. It is not usually necessary to clear 
the grain of vegetable-tanned sheepskins before they are 
blacked, as the sal soda serves to carry the dye into the 
leather. A good method to employ in drying out the skins 
is to tack them upon boards in the moist condition and to 
leave them until "they have become dry. As much as pos- 
sible of the natural grease should be gotten rid of. This is 
usually accomplished by pressing the raw skins in a 
hydraulic press or by treatment with naphtha after liming. 
Sometimes it is necessary to again degrease the skins after 
they have been tanned in a process of naphtha. 

A good black 
On bark and extract tanned sheepskins can be obtained by 
the use of a liquor composed of logwood and fustic extracts, 
a very small quantity of the latter being sufficient to inten- 
sify the logwood black. The leather is first moistened with 
water until it is uniformly soft and moist ; then it is treated 
to the logwood and fustic liquor, which should be applied 
warm and well brushed into the grain. This is followed 
by an application of copperas and blue vitriol liquor, or an 
iron or vinegar striker. The leather is given two coats 
of the liquors and is then washed off. To increase the 
softness of the leather the skins, after dyeing, are rubbed 
over with oil, or with a mixture of egg-yolk and glycerine. 



78 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

SKIVERS. 

A skiver is the grain side of a split sheepskin. In mak- 
ing this class of leather, the skins are split in the beam 
house, and the flesh or inner side is worked into glove or 
chamois leather, and the grain side is tanned in bark, ex- 
tract or alum processes and used for a large variety of pur- 
poses — principally in the manufacture of leather goods such 
as pocket books, belts and suspenders, as trimmings and 
linings. Skivers are also used in large quantities as hat or 
sweat bands. Being of very light Substance, and possessing 
very little strength of fibre, a great deal of care is required 
in handling this class of goods during the processes of tan- 
ning, coloring and finishing. 

The splitting is usually done after the skins have been 
limed. On account of the fact that skivers are often finished 
in very light and fancy colors, it is highly important that 
the liming, drenching and other beam house processes are 
done in a ver}^ thorough and cleanly manner, in order to 
keep the stock clean and free from shaded or mottled grain. 

After the splitting has been done the grains receive a 
thorough drenching in a bran drench. This, of course, is 
for the purpose of washing out the lime and bringing the 
grains into the right condition for pickling and tanning. 

A good drench 
Suitable for this class of goods may be made of bran as fol- 
lows : One-half of a barrel of bran is mixed into enough 
water to make a thick mush. This is covered up and let 
stand for forty-eight hours, until it has become thoroughly 
sour. Then it is poured into the tub or vat to be used for 
the work and mixed with enough warm water to cover the 
number of skins. This quantity of bran will answer for 
six hundred skivers. To the drench should be added three 
pints of sulphuric acid and three pecks of common salt, and 
the prepared drench heated to about ninety degrees. The 
skivers are stirred carefully about in this drench for a 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 79 

sufficient length of time to thoroughly cleanse them of the 
lime. Two or three hours is usually sufficient. After 
drenching for this length of time the grains will be found 
to be clean and free from dirt and lime. For light colors 
it is usually a good plan to wash them again before pickling 
them, in order to still further cleanse them ; but in many 
instances this is not necessary, the pickling process serving 
to clean and bleach them. The bran should be carefully 
selected, as bran that has been once damp is unsuited 
for the purpose. Another method of using the bran drench 
is to allow the fermentation to take place while the 
skins are in the liquor. The same quantity of bran is used 
as when the fermentation takes place before it is used. 
About one-half of the bran is added to the warm water in 
the vat, and while it is being well stirred, one-half of the 
grains are put in, then the balance of the bran is added, 
and then the remaining skins. It takes some time for the 
fermentation to commence; and as the drench sours the 
skivers are forced up on the top of the liquor. They need 
to be kept down until they have become perfectly soft and 
clean, after which they may be washed in warm water and 
pickled. A good pickle for two hundred grains may be 
made of two and one-half quarts of acid, fifty or sixty 
pounds of salt in one hundred gallons of water. The 
grains should be stirred carefully in this liquor for about 
one hour, and then removed, and can then be kept indefi- 
nitely without spoiling. They may also be tanned without 
pickling. 

Various materials are used in tanning skivers. 

Any tannage that works well upon sheepskins may be 
used. Sumac is, perhaps, the most frequently used. Bark 
tannages are also employed, also alum and chrome processes, 
the last two methods imparting more strength to the fibres 
than either bark or sumac. During the tanning the stock 
must be handled carefully to prevent tearing. By suspend- 



80 PEACTICAL TANNING. 

ing the skivers in the liquor, all danger of tearing is obvi- 
ated, a smooth colored grain is assured and a very uniform 
tannage results. 

For a common grade o/" leather 

Pickled skins may be tanned in hemlock liquors. Very 
little tanning is necessary, getting the stock well colored 
and struck through is all that is required. Sumac liquors 
are usually made up warm and either the extract of sumac 
or the sumac leaves may be used. The tanning consumes 
but a few hours, and when completed, the skins are washed 
off in water to remove surplus sumac, pressed and dried 
out. Sumac is so liable to ferment that a new liquor should 
be used for each lot of grains. When alum and salt are 
used, or a chrome process, the tanning is completed in less 
than one hour, when a drum is used, this method of tanning 
being very liable to tear the stock seriously, tanning in 
vats is better. Chrome-tanned skins must be colored before 
they are dried out. Upon coming from the tanning liquors 
they should be washed and prepared for coloring by being 
given a sumac bath. A white soft leather is made by tak- 
ing the skins from the sumac bath and drying them out 
without coloring. The sumac makes an excellent mordant 
for any shade of color. 

Sumac-tanned skins, after drying out, are moistened and 
colored. They are usually box-colored, that is, dyed in 
trays or dye boxes. They are folded lengthwise through 
the center and dipped in the color solution until the de- 
sired shade is obtained, then the color is set by the applica- 
tion of a weak solution of bichromate of potash, the skins 
washed off and dried out again. Chrome-tanned skins are 
colored in the same way, the only difference being that 
they are not dried out at all until they have been colored.- 
In the working of the stock after drying great care is nec- 
essary to prevent tearing. The skins being hard and hav- 
ing shrunk in dyeing, must be moistened and left in piles 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 81 

for a few hours. Then they are crutched, and as much of 
the pulling and working as can be done by hand should be 
done in this way, as the skins stand very little rough usage. 

Skivers are finished in numerous ways. 

They are glazed smooth, finished in dull, and also glazed 
and by use of embossing machines are finished into imita- 
tions of alligator, seal and pigskin. The rolls used for em- 
bossing are made of steel, upon which the desired figures 
are cut ; the skins are passed through the "machine and 
come through with the figure wanted upon them. By the 
use of aniline and sulfamine dyes and the embossing 
machine many beautiful and novel effects are produced. 
Aniline dyes have a special value for the maker of this class 
of leather, because of their brilliancy and beauty and be- 
cause of the almost unlimited number and variety of shades 
that can be produced with them. Many new shades can 
be obtained by a combination of two or more dyes. Upon 
sumac tanned skins, and upon skins treated with sumac as 
a mordant, aniline dyes produce splendid results, being 
rapidly absorbed by the leather. What has been written 
about aniline dyes applies equally well to sulfamine dyes. 

A good process of tanning. 

Perhaps as good a process of tanning as the tanner of 
skins can use is a mixture of quebracho and hemlock ex- 
tracts, made up of two-thirds quebracho and one-third hem- 
lock. This tannage produces a very light color that is 
uniform and clear. The skins tanned in this way may be 
colored any fancy shade desired, and they may also be 
bleached by the methods of bleaching described further on. 
For most purposes, however, skins tanned in the combina- 
tion of quebracho and hemlock require no bleaching, as the 
color produced \>y the tannage is sufficiently light and 
uniform. 
6 



82 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

CHAMOIS LEATHER. 

Chamois leather at the present time is made almost ex- 
clusively from sheepskins. The leather is produced by the 
action of oil upon the raw skins, and is distinguished from 
all other classes of leather by remarkable softness and open 
texture. In the making of this leather the wool is removed 
from the pelts in the usual way, then the skins are limed 
long and thoroughly in order to make them very soft and 
elastic. The skins are then split on a machine adapted to 
the work, the grain being tanned and finished into fancy 
leather, while the flesh side is oil-tanned into chamois 
leather. After splitting, the fleshes receive a further liming 
in order to increase their softness and porosity. Old lime 
liquors, provided they are kept clean, produce the best re- 
sults, as they make the fibres of the skins very soft and 
silky without the hardness that comes from the use of new, 
fresh limes. 

Removing the lime. 

To remove the lime from the skins they are subjected to 
different processes. In some instances they are bated with 
manures and then given a bran drench, which leaves them 
perfectly clean and very soft. Some manufacturers remove 
the lime by thorough washing and without subjecting the 
skins to a fermented bate at all. This method makes the 
leather more durable than when a bating process is used. 
It is very important that all the lime be gotten rid of before 
the skins are treated with oil. 

Treatment of the skins. 

Before the skins are tanned they are pressed in a hy- 
draulic press in order to get rid of all surplus water and to 
make the skins as dry as possible. They are then given a 
thorough beating in machine^ especially constructed for 
the purpose, in order to soften them, after which they are 
sprinkled with cod-liver oil and are again beaten in order 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 83 

to force the oil into the leather. The best grade of New- 
foundland cod oil is considered the best for the purpose. 
The process of oiling the skins and beating them is repeated 
two or three times, or until they have lost their original 
smell of lime and have acquired a mustard color. After 
the oiling and beating process is completed the skins are 
made to undergo a process of heating. By this process the 
oxidation of the oil which commenced during the previous 
process is completed by the fermentation that results, in the 
skins. The heat is generated spontaneously. The skins 
must be watched very closely and frequently turned over. 
When the heat rises to a high temperature the leather is 
seriously damaged. The heat that is generated destroys all 
organic matter in the skins. The highest temperature 
allowable is 140 degrees F. This heating process is a most 
delicate operation, and upon its being properly done de- 
pends the success of the leather. When insufficient heat is 
generated the leather rots, when too much heat is produced 
it becomes dissolved. When the fermentation ceases, and 
the skins are no longer susceptible to heating, they are 
treated in order to remove the oil. This is done by wash- 
ing the skins in hot water and then pressing them under 
a hydraulic press. The grease that is squeezed out in this 
way is degras, an article largely used by tanners. The oil 
may also be removed by washing the skins in a solution 
of soda ash, which causes the grease remaining to saponify. 
This saponified oil is then neutralized with sulphuric acid 
and forms the oil known as sod oil. A certain percentage 
of the oil should be allowed to remain in the skins so as to 
give them softness. 

The finishing processes consist of drying, staking, and 
smoothing down all unevenness on the surface. The skins 
may be bleached by being sprinkled with water and exposed 
to the sun, or by treatment with a weak solution of perman- 
ganate of potash, followed by a treatment with diluted sul- 
phuric acid, or the leather may be treated with sulphurous 



84 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

acid in the form of gas. Methods of treating the skins 
vary. In some instances the skins, instead of being laid in 
piles to ferment, are hung up in warm ovens, which is less 
dangerous and produces a better color. Very soft, tough 
leather having many of the characteristics of chamois 
leather is made from fleshers in chrome tanning. The 
skins may be tanned in the usual way and then very 
heavily fat-liquored with emulsions of oil, egg-yolk and 
soap, or of oil and degras. By first treating the fleshers to 
a tawing paste of alum, salt, flour and egg-yolk, made up 
in the proportions of nine pounds of alum, four pounds 
of salt, twenty pounds of wheat flour, and twelve pounds 
of egg-yolk, for one hundred pounds of skins, and drum- 
ming the skins in this liquor in a drum at a temperature 
of ninety degrees for twenty minutes, and then drying them 
out, and after lying in the dry state for some weeks working 
them soft, a very soft and elastic leather is produced. They 
may be finished up with no further treatment other than 
working and smoothing, or they may be subsequently 
tanned in a chrome process and then finished. 

Chamois leather may also be made 
By passing the prepared skins (washed and pressed) through 
a twenty -five per cent. Turkey -red oil solution. After this 
they are dried and laid in a moderately warmed room in a 
heap and covered up. They are then hung up in the air 
and allowed to dry slowly, when they are again oiled in the 
same solution and again laid in a heap, again dried, and 
then washed in a weak solution of alkali. 

By drying and working, the leather is made soft and 
completely oil-tanned. The results may be variously modi- 
fied by greater or less concentration of the oil solution, by 
higher temperature in drying and by more frequent appli- 
cations or treatments with the oil. Combinations with the 
salts of alumina may also be emplo}^ed here. The preferred 
method is as follows : The prepared skins are steeped in a 



SHEEPSKINS : BARK, EXTRACT AND CHAMOIS. 85 

solution containing preferably fifteen per cent, of the soluble 
Turkey-red oil, then they are dried and the operation re- 
peated, then the usual method of tanning is proceeded with 
in the usual way. 



CHAPTER VI. 

GOATSKINS. 
BEAMHOUSE WORK. PREPARING THE SKINS FOR TANNING. 

Goatskins in the hair are received by the tanner either 
in dry or d^-salted condition. The ends and objects to be 
accomplished during the soaking and softening process, the 
first through which the skins are worked, are thorough 
softening and freshening up of the skins and the removal 
from them of dried blood, dirt, dust and salt. Good results 
cannot be obtained in . the liming process unless the skins 
are thoroughly softened and cleansed at the beginning. 

Dry -salted skins need to be freed of all the salt upon and 
in them before they are limed. Such skins should be 
soaked for a few hours in clean, fresh water, then worked 
mechanically and put back into clean water for some hours 
longer. The water should be frequently changed and not 
allowed to become foul nor full of salt. Dried skins are 
somewhat difficult to soften, and require a more thorough 
soaking than salted skins, because having been dried in the 
raw state they are almost waterproof and resist the penetra- 
tion of the water. Such skins are softened with clean water 
with considerable difficulty, and are sometimes affected in 
quality by injudicious soaking. 

In order to hasten the soaking and softening, solutions 
of chemicals are used to good advantage. Borax, sulphide 
of sodium and sal soda are frequently used. Borax is the most 
expensive of the three articles. When it is employed, from 
two to five pounds are used for each one thousand gallons 
of water. It should be dissolved in a separate vessel and 
poured into the soak-water and well stirred throughout the 

(86) 



GOATSKINS. 87 

same. Sulphide of sodium may be used in the same 
manner. This article thoroughly softens the dry skins and 
brings the withered grain and fibres back to a soft, fresh 
condition in a short time. 

Boracic acid is also used in the soaking process, as it 
assists in the softening, and being an antiseptic, prevents, to 
some extent, any injury to the skins caused by decom- 
position. 

The serious danger in connection with the soaking pro- 
cess is the liability to putrefaction. This may be guarded 
against by the use of the articles mentioned and by keeping 
the soak vats clean by frequent changes of water. Some 
tanners of dried skins use old stale soaks in which they 
soften their skins. Such soaks certainly soften the skin in 
a short time, but often at the expense of the stock. The 
putrefaction that is constantly going on in such soaks fre- 
quently causes the grain of the leather to become shaded 
and clouded. This defect is especially undesirable when 
the leather is dyed fancy, light shades. Improper methods 
of soaking also frequently cause a pricked or pitted grain. 
A good rule to observe is to leave the skins for about twenty- 
four hours in the first soak, then to pull them out, and after 
the dirty, salty water has drained off to put them back into 
another clean, fresh soak to which some borax or sulphide 
of sodium has been added, in which the softening is com- 
pleted. 

When the softened skins have been removed from the 
soak vats and before they are passed into the depilating 
process, they are frequently piled in heaps. Heating fre- 
quently sets in, especially in warm weather, and in a short 
time serious damage will result. When this occurs it is 
necessary to expose the skins to the air at once or they will 
be completely destroyed. Heating always injures the skins 
more or less according to the degree of heat developed, and 
it is therefore very important that it be guarded against as 
much as possible. The skin piles should be frequently 



Ob PRACTICAL TANNINE. 

handled, or better still, no delay should take place, but the 
skins passed at once into the following process. In all 
beam-house processes it is good practice to handle the stock 
promptly. Goatskins require a soaking of about forty-eight 
hours, depending upon their condition and thickness and 
the temperature of the water. Good judgment must be used 
as in all other tanning processes and will go further towards 
getting good results than any set rule. It is certainly im- 
portant that the skins are thoroughly softened before they 
go into the liming process. The cleaner and softer a skin 
is when it goes into the unhairing process the clearer and 
brighter will be the grain of the finished leather. 

THE LIMING PROCESS. 

The office of any material used upon raw skins in pre- 
paring them for tanning into leather is to swell and distend 
the fibres of the skins, thus loosening the hair roots and en- 
abling the tanner to readily remove the hair ; then to dis- 
solve the perishable animal matter in the skins so that it can 
be readily removed before tanning. When this has been 
done, soft, pliable leather can be made, and not before. Var- 
ious materials are used and different methods are followed 
in the manner of using them according to the kind of skins 
being worked and the class of leather to be made from them. 
For many years the only depilitant in general use was 
lime. Its use, however, unless combined with some other 
article, has many objections. Red arsenic has long been 
used in connection with lime, and is used at the present 
time very extensively in the tanning or making of goat 
leathers. When combined with lime it produces leather 
with a very fine, elastic grain and of soft, tine texture. 

In preparing a new lime with red arsenic, one hundred 
pounds of lime are slacked with about twelve pails of hot 
water. To this quantity of lime are added about five pounds 
of the arsenic. It may be dissolved separately and then 
mixed with the lime. Both materials should be thoroughly 



GOATSKINS. 89 

dissolved before they come in contact with the skins. A 
common practice is to lime twelve hundred skins at one 
time. No exact rule is generally followed in regard to the 
quantity of lime used nor to the length of time consumed 
by the unhairing process. The quantities of lime and red 
arsenic mentioned are enough for six hundred goatskins to 
begin with. After they have been in the liquor for one day 
they are drawn out of the lime and the liquor well stirred 
up in the vat. If the skins are allowed to drain before they 
are put back they will absorb the lime again more readily. 
When paddle-vats are used it is not necessary to pull the 
skins out, although the lime should be stirred up from the 
bottom daily. On the third day the liquor should be 
strengthened by the addition of two pails of lime. The 
strength at the beginning should be about three degrees 
Twaddle, and by the daily addition of lime and arsenic it 
should be gradually increased to about six degrees. These 
points are not arbitral, although safe to work by. When 
too much lime is used towards the end of the process the 
grain sometimes becomes rough. This needs to be over- 
come during the process of drenching or puring. The best 
results usually follow the use of limes that have been used 
before. A good lime may be prepared in this w T ay by 
using about two-thirds old liquor and one-third new — that 
is, of six feet of liming liquor in the vat four feet may be 
old and two feet may be new and fresh. 

After the hair becomes loosened it is best to leave the 
skins in the lime for a day or two longer, as this not only 
enables the hair to come off more readily, but makes the 
leather more supple. The use of red arsenic and sulphide 
of sodium in conjunction with lime not only shortens the 
time required to prepare the skins for tanning, but also 
keeps the grain from becoming rough, makes a softer, more 
durable leather, as well as makes the lime more soluble, and 
therefore more easily removed before tanning. 



90 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Very good results are obtained from the use of sulphide of 
sodium and lime. 

There are various methods of using sulphide of sodium. 
It can be used alone and applied to the flesh side of the 
skins, and the skins may be left for a few days in a solution 
of sulphide of sodium, or the sulphide of sodium may be 
mixed with lime. When sulphide of sodium is used alone 
and no lime whatever used, the resulting leather is some- 
what hard and close, showing that something more than 
removal of the hair must be accomplished before good 
leather can be made. Sulphide of sodium is very simple to 
use, besides producing far better leather than the older 
methods of unhairing. No great harm comes to the stock 
by using the sulphide too strong ; the material is merely 
wasted. It is important that the sulphide of sodium be of 
good quality and free from dirt, iron or sediment. The 
material should be dissolved with boiling water slowly, and 
well stirred up and not allowed to settle. It should not be 
used warm but should be dissolved long enough beforehand 
to enable it to become cool before it is used. The strength 
at which it is used varies slightly according to the kind of 
skins to be treated. In all cases the strength need never be 
greater than just sufficient to start the hair. 

When it is desirable to save the hair, it is good practice 
to paint the skins upon the flesh side with either a clear 
solution of sulphide of sodium or a mixture of sulphide of 
sodium and lime. When this is done the skins require to 
be thoroughly softened and freed of all salt and dirt, either 
by draining or extracting before they are treated. The 
skins are spread upon a smooth table and the depilatory 
solution or mixture is applied to the flesh side. The liquor 
is put on by means of a vegetable fibre brush or swab of 
burlap, and only enough liquor is put on to cover the skin 
without running off. To prevent sore hands, the workman 
must wear rubber gloves. After painting, the skins are 
folded up and placed in piles. If any of the sulphide 01 



GOATSKINS. 91 

sodium comes in contact with the hair it dissolves and de- 
stroys it at once. In cold weather eight to ten skins may 
be placed in a pile together, but in warm weather not more 
than four or five to prevent heating, and if they are to lie 
for twenty-four hours or longer they should be singled out 
so that one may lie on the next. The painting should be 
done in a cool, moist room. In summer care must be taken 
that the skins do not get warm, and in winter that they do 
not get frozen. The hair will be loosened in a few hours 
but it is best not to unhair the skins until the next day as 
the hair will then come off more readily and cleanly. Very 
young and tender skins should be unhaired as soon as the 
hair starts and immediately put into clean, cold water. 
After the hair has been removed the skins should be opened 
flesh side out and immediately put into clean, cold water 
in which they will be safe from heating or spoiling for some 
time. No skin treated with sulphide of sodium will be in- 
jured so long as the grain is kept moist and not allowed to 
dry out and harden. 

When lime is mixed with the sulphide of sodium 

It should be thoroughly reduced to milk of lime by complete 
slacking before it is used. Hot water is best to use for 
slacking, and the lime should be stirred from the time the 
lime and water are brought together until all is dissolved. 
Too much care cannot be taken in this particular. Very 
often injury is done to skins by particles of unslacked lime. 
About one-third of a barrel of lime should be slacked in 
twenty-five gallons of hot water, and after the solution be- 
comes cool it should be used at the consistency of thin paste. 
Several pails of this lime may be mixed with a barrel of 
sulphide of sodium liquor of a strength of about eighteen 
degrees. When it is mixed with lime the sulphide of 
sodium enters into chemical combination with the lime, 
forming various mixed sulphides that have a very energetic 
action upon the skins. The mixture does not swell the 



92 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

skins to the same extent that lime alone does. At the same 
time it toughens the grain and fibre and helps in making a 
fme-textured leather. The mixture of lime and sulphide 
of sodium is applied to the skins in the same manner as 
the liquor made from the latter alone. When no value is 
placed upon the hair, the skins may be satisfactorily depi- 
lated by being left for a few days in a solution of sulphide 
of sodium in a vat. 

To each one hundred gallons of water from ten to fifteen 
pounds of the sulphide of sodium are dissolved and poured 
into the vat and the solution thoroughly stirred. The 
skins are placed in this liquor and left therein for from 
twelve to twenty-four hours, or until the hair is reduced to 
pulp and can be readily washed off. They are then re- 
moved, washed off and limed. When this method is used 
it is not so important that the skins are thorough^ softened 
before going into the solution, as they may be left in the 
liquor for forty-eight hours if necessary until they are 
thoroughly softened and plumped. These methods of pre- 
paring goatskins are not in general use, the. arsenic-lime 
process being the most commonly used. They produce 
good results, however, and are used when it is not consid- 
ered desirable to save the hair. No matter which method 
of using sulphide of sodium is used, it should be borne in 
mind that the stronger the solution is and the longer the 
skins remain in the solution, and the less the depilatory is 
washed out after depilating and before liming, the weaker 
and less liming is necessary. The sulphide of sodium 
softens the skins and removes all scurf and filth, also the 
short, fine hair commonly called the undergrowth. By its 
use, too, the time of liming is considerably shortened. 

While sulphide of sodium is an excellent unhairing 
agent, the mere removal of the hair is not all that must be 
accomplished before soft, elastic leather can be made. The 
skins, after the hair has been removed from them, must be 
further plumped in order to accomplish the dissolution 



GOATSKINS. 



93 



of the animal matter in them. Lime not only does this, 
but it unites with the fatty matter in the skins and saponi- 
fies it so that it can be readily removed from the skins 
before they are tanned. Many good tanners use what are 
sometimes called gathering limes. These are good only so 
long as they are kept clean and sweet. When limes are 
used over and over, they should be strengthened and re- 
newed with fresh lime daily. When this is not done, and 
the lime liquors are allowed to become stale and dirty, the 
grain of the finished leather will never be bright and clear. 
The swelling property of a lime liquor decreases as it grows 
old, while the solvent action of an old and a fresh lime is 
about the same. 

After the sulphide of sodium has been used upon the 
skins and the hair has been removed they go into the first 
lime. This may be half renewed for each pack of skins by 
running out about one-half of the liquor and replacing it 
with new, fresh liquor. When it is necessary to make a 
new lime, about two pailfuls of lime are slacked in one-third 
of a barrel of hot water. This is poured into the water in 
the vat and will answer for three to four hundred skins, 
according to their size and thickness. This first lime 
should always be kept clean and fresh, and should not be 
used too long. In summer it should not be used more 
than three times ; in winter it may be used twice as long. 
The skins or slats may remain in this. lime for one day, 
then be hauled out and more lime, in quantity the same as 
first put in, may be added, or the skins may be put into 
another and stronger lime. Upon the third day the skins 
are again hauled out and more lime added, and the lime- 
grounds thoroughly stirred up from the bottom of the vat. 
From four to six days liming, after treatment with sulphide 
of sodium, is enough for goatskins. If they are to be 
tanned without pickling, a little more lime may be used 
and will do no harm. 

When paddle-vats are used for the liming process, the 



94 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

skins are kept in motion and it is not necessary to pull 
them out each day. The liming will also be accomplished 
in less time than when still limes are used. Very light 
skins need to be limed not longer than three or four days. 
In all cases the best results are gotten when the skins are 
entered into a weak lime at first and the lime gradually 
strengthened. When vat room is scarce, it is good practice 
to haul the skins out of the lime at the end of about four 
days and to let them lie in piles for a few days. They 
should be protected from the air and not allowed to become 
dry or hard upon the edges. Some tannages, principally 
the chrome tannages, produce little or no plumpness in the 
leather, and for this reason the skins need to be handled in 
the beam-house in such a manner as to guard against loss 
of fullness and substance as much as possible. This is 
done by short, quick liming. 

When sulphide of sodium is mixed with the lime in the 
vats and the unhairing and preparing of the skins are done at 
the same time, about one-third as much sulphide of sodium 
as lime is used. Both are slacked together and poured into 
the water in the vat. The strength of the first lime may 
be about three degrees, and by the addition of fresh lime 
each day the strength is raised to about six degrees. When 
this method is used, from six to eight days is long enough 
to lime light skins and from eight to ten days for heavy 
skins. After liming, the skins are washed in clean water 
in order to remove from them as much of the lime as 
possible, then trimmed, short-haired, and are then ready for 
the pure or drench. The fleshing is generally done imme- 
diately after liming. This work is generally done upon 
machines, although some hand labor is still employed. 

THE BATING OR PURING OP GOATSKINS. 

The next step in the manufacture of goat leathers is the 
process commonly called bating or puring, by means 
of which the skins are put into a neutral condition — that 



GOATSKINS. 95 

is, freed from all lime and alkaline sulphides used in the 
previous process of depilating, and are put into a clean and 
pure condition to receive the tanning materials, vegetable 
or mineral. No lime should be left in the skins when a soft, 
fine-grained leather is wanted. When skins containing 
lime, even in a small quantity, are tanned by the chrome 
process, the lime is changed to sulphate of lime, which 
closes the pores of the skins, shrinking them and producing 
a rough, harsh grain and a close, hard leather. 

The essential qualities of goat leather at the present time 

Are softness, some elasticity, and a smooth, strong and silky 
grain. These qualities are produced by the methods used 
in unhairing the skins, as well as by the methods used in 
puring and drenching them. The quality and texture 
of finished leather are largely influenced by the methods 
employed in this part of the work ; and for these reasons 
this process has always been an interesting and important 
one to tanners. The number of materials used to accom- 
plish the objects of this process is limited and there is 
opportunity for improvement. 

When it is desirable to have the leather very soft and 
elastic, the skins are given a long and thorough liming and 
a bating in such a manner that not only the lime is entirely 
removed, but also a portion of the substance of the skins, 
thus causing the fibres to work readily over each other and 
the leather to be soft and stretchy. The longer the skins 
are limed the more thoroughly will the substance be dis- 
solved, and when the dissolved substance is removed before 
tanning very soft leather results. Lime has two distinct 
actions upon raw skins. Not only does it swell and split 
up the fibres so that the roots of the hair become loosened 
and easily removed, but it also reduces to liquid form por- 
tions of the skin substance that are removed by the process 
of bating. 

In the preparation of goatskins the use of lime alone 



96 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

makes the skins hard and lacking in those important qual- 
ities that have made goat leather so popular. By the use 
of red arsenic the grain is made soft and fine and the leather 
supple and elastic. When the proper proportions are not 
kept up the leather finishes up hard and tinny. The bat- 
ing or puring process serves to remove not only the lime 
but also the dissolved substance, albumen, etc. During 
this process, too, the skins lose their plump and swollen con- 
dition acquired during the liming process and become soft 
and thin, and readily receptive to the tanning materials. 

BATES AND BATING. 

To accomplish these results upon goatskins, hen, pigeon 
and dog dung have been used for many years. While their 
use is unpleasant in the extreme and attended by many 
dangers and uncertainties, they produce upon the hard goat- 
skin results that no other materials seem capable of produc- 
ing, and they continue in use despite all attemps to displace 
them with other articles. Upon calf, sheep and kangaroo 
skins and hides and kips other simpler, cheaper and safer 
articles are being used, that produce the right results, but 
upon goatskins nothing has yet been practically employed, 
to any extent, to act as a substitute for manures. Both 
bird and dog dung are used. The bird dung is very rapid 
in its action and makes the skins very soft and silky, and 
tough but somewhat lacking in elasticity. On the other 
hand dog dung has a very great softening effect upon the 
skins and unless carefully used the leather becomes hollow 
and flat with a great deal of spring to it. Chicken manure, 
to which some dog manure has been added, is largely used, 
being of greater strength than either when used alone. 
Chicken manure varies greatly according to what the fowls 
have been fed upon. The best results are obtained when 
the material is gathered while it is fresh and dried for 
future use. It should be kept spread out upon a dry floor 
to prevent its heating. The efficacy of the manure bate 



GOATSKINS. 97 



depends upon the fermentive action developed. For this 
reason the material needs to be allowed to thoroughly fer- 
ment before it is used. The material may be prepared by 
using one and one-half bushels of dung in one-half of a 
barrel of water. By the aid of steam the temperature is 
raised to boiling point. The mixture is then thoroughly 
stirred until all lumps are broken up, then the barrel is 
covered up and the material allowed to ferment. It is im- 
portant that the fermentation be fully developed before the 
skins are left for any length of time in the liquor. The 
water used should be clean, soft water. A paddle-wheel or 
vat is filled with the necessary quantity of water heated to 
a temperature of 90 degrees Fah. In order to avoid stains 
and burns caused by masses of undissolved excrement rest- 
ing upon the grain or lying between the skins, the material 
should be strained through a piece of burlap or coarse cloth. 
The fermented bate is mixed throughout the water and the 
skins are entered into the liquor. By the action of the pad- 
dles the skins are kept in constant motion and the results 
are thus uniform. The stock requires to be left in this liquor 
until such time as the lime has become thoroughly neu- 
tralized and the skins reduced from their firm, swollen con- 
dition to one of softness and the grain has acquired a 
smooth and silky feeling. By drawing the thumb and fore- 
finger across the body portion of a skin the condition of the 
stock can be ascertained, and it can also be plainly noticed 
when the indentation of the finger remains upon the grain. 
No exact length of time can be followed. The skins require 
to be bated in this way until they have become soft and 
white, and this must and can only be decided by the 
operator. 

Some disturbing influences in bating. 
For this reason, and for many other disturbing influ- 
ences over which the operator has no control, the use of the 
dung bate is decidedly dangerous and uncertain. Constant 
7 



98 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

attention must be given to the stock, and even when this is 
done the results are beyond control. No one can tell for a 
certainty whether a pack of skins will come out right or 
not, and many skins are seriously damaged during the pro- 
cess. The liquor often putrefies and when this happens the 
leather is made flat and lifeless, owing to the fact that the 
interlocking fibres have been attacked and the depletion or 
bringing down carried too far. Sometimes in a very few 
moments after the stock is reduced to the right condition 
putrefaction sets in. It first shows upon the flesh side, 
which commences to peel off by gentle pressure of the finger. 
The skins change color, turning first blue and then grad- 
ually darkening. The grain becomes afflicted with minute 
holes known as bate pricks. These are readily seen and 
although they are very small they destroy the value of the 
leather for grain-finishing purposes. 

By carefully watching and giving close attention to the 
work the faults are less liable to occur, and the skins safely 
prepared for tanning. It is upon the swollen skin sub- 
stance that the bate works. It liquefies a portion of the 
skin substance, and this together with the lime washes out 
in the form of a colorless liquid and the skins become soft 
and silky. The slimy liquid is readily removed after pur- 
ing by slight mechanical work or by a washing in warm 
water. 

Goatskins are of close, hard grain 

And will stand and in fact require a much more thorough 
cleansing than any other skins. It is customary, after the 
skins have been pured in the manure bate, to give them a 
further treatment, by which they are still further cleansed 
and any tendency to decay arrested. The skins are taken 
from the bate and given a thorough working upon the 
grain, by means of which the slime is forced out of the pores. 
When this has been done the skins are placed in a weak 
lactic acid bath made up in proportion of one-half gallon of 



GOATSKINS. 99 

lactic acid in one hundred gallons of warm water. After a 
drenching in this liquor for thirty minutes the skins are 
removed therefrom, washed off in clean water and are then 
ready for tanning. The cleaner the skins are the more 
readily will they tan and the better will be the results of 
coloring and finishing. A point to be observed during this 
part of the work is that the temperature of the liquor should 
not be higher than ninety degrees. The use of warmer 
liquors than this burns the sensitive skins, shrinking them 
and causing the grain to be harsh and coarse. 

THE BRAN DRENCH AS APPLIED TO GOATSKINS. 

A method of drenching goatskins that has been in com- 
mon use for many years is the bran drench. Many tanners 
consider this method and manure drenching the only 
methods of cleansing skins. 

In the manipulation of the bran drench the operator 
must use judgment, as no hard nor fast rule can be fol- 
lowed. The efficacy of this process also depends upon the 
fermentive action developed, and for this reason it is neces- 
sary that the bran be fully fermented. In some tanneries 
where old sour tan liquors are to be had, a pailful of bran 
is used for each one hundred skins in enough sour liquor 
to enable the skins to process nicely. The drench is used at 
a temperature of ninety degrees, and the skins left therein 
over night. In the morning a new drench is prepared. 
One and one-half buckets of bran are used for each one 
hundred skins in sufficient warm water, and the skins are 
left in this drench until they have become thoroughly soft 
and clean. Another method is to use two hundred pounds 
of bran for every six hundred skins. The bran is mixed 
with sufficient warm water to make a thick mush, covered 
up and allowed to ferment. About one-half of the bran is 
put into the water in the vat and well stirred. Then about 
one-half of the skins are put in. Before putting them into 
the drench it is good practice to let them lie for an hour or 



100 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

two in warm water. After the skins are put in the drench, 
the liquor should be thoroughly stirred, then the balance 
of the bran is put in and the remaining skins. 

It usually requires, including the time consumed in de- 
veloping the drench, from twelve to twenty-four hours to 
get the skins thoroughly worked down. In summer less 
time is required than in winter. After the skins are 
drenched to the proper condition they are removed from 
the liquor and well washed in warm water for a few min- 
utes, after which they are ready for the tanning process. 



CHAPTER VII. 

THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. 

Nearly all goatskins are tanned at the present time in 
chrome processes, both one-bath and two-bath processes being 
used. Several methods will be described. The original and 
most commonly used two-bath process consists of two acid 
baths, the first consisting of chromic acid, formed by the com- 
bination of bichromate of potash and muriatic acid, and the 
second consisting of sulphurous acid evolved from the 
union of hyposulphite of soda and muriatic acid. A 
practical method of carrying out this process is as follows : 
After the skins are reduced and cleansed in the bating 
liquor, they are washed for a few minutes in a weak lactic 
acid bath and then for another few minutes in warm borax 
water, prepared by adding five pounds of borax dissolved 
in hot water, to one thousand gallons of water. This wash- 
ing is not always necessary, and is only needed when the 
skins have been very dirty. In many instances it may be 
dispensed with. The skins are next drained well, and then 
weighed. 

A preliminary pickling in a solution of salt water and 
hydrochloric acid is an advantage, as it serves to plump up 
the skins and to keep them open during the process of tan- 
ning, and in such condition that they can be readily struck 
out after tanning. The pickle consists of ten pounds of salt 
for each one hundred pounds of drained skins dissolved in 
fifteen gallons of warm water. This solution is placed in 
the drum with the skins and the drum run for about fifteen 
minutes. Then the acid is added. For every one hundred 
pounds of skins in the drum, two pounds of muriatic or 

(101) 



102 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

hydrochloric acid are mixed with about one pail full of 
boiling water. The acid solution is then cooled by the ad- 
dition of two pails of cold water. This diluted acid bath is 
poured into the drum and the skins milled in the salt and 
acid for another fifteen minutes. Upon coming from the 
acid treatment the skins are ready for the chrome process. 
The first bath of this process consists of bichromate of 
potash, added to the acid pickled skins. For each One 
hundred pounds of skins two pounds of bichromate of pot- 
ash are dissolved in hot water, which is then reduced with 
cold water until the temperature is about seventy de- 
grees. For every one hundred pounds of skins about fifteen 
gallons of water should be used. The solution of bichro- 
mate of potash is added to the skins in the drum and 
drummed for at least thirty minutes, when the strength of 
the liquor is increased by the addition of four pounds of 
bichromate of potash for every one hundred pounds of 
skins, and two and one-half pounds of salt. This is given 
to the skins while the drum is in motion and the skins 
drummed therein until the thickest part of the heaviest 
skin shows thorough penetration of the yellow liquor. 
When this has been accomplished the skins are taken out 
of the liquor and allowed to drain for some hours or over 
night, being covered with damp sacks to keep out the light. 
In the morning they are struck out upon the machine or 
are pressed and the surplus liquor removed from them. 

Another method of giving the skins the chrome liquor 

Is to prepare a solution of bichromate of potash, water and 
muriatic acid, in the proportions of six pounds of the pot- 
ash and three pounds of the acid in fifteen or twenty gallons 
of water. A few pounds of salt are also added. The skins 
are drummed in this liquor until they are thoroughly pen- 
etrated with it, then they are treated as mentioned above. 
The important point to be observed is that the skins are not 
done until the thickest skin is thoroughly penetrated with 



THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. 103 

the yellow liquor. When this is neglected the raw material 
left through the center of the skin causes the leather to dry- 
out hard and stiff. 

The second bath of the process, in which the chromic 
acid of the first bath is reduced to chromic oxide, is com- 
posed of hyposulphite of soda, water and muriatic acid. 
Before the skins are entered into the main reducing bath 
they should be dipped into a weak solution of hyposulphite 
of soda and acid, by means of which a slight surface reduc- 
tion is accomplished. For every one hundred pounds of 
skins about four pounds of hyposulphite of soda are dis- 
solved and added to fifteen gallons of water. The skins are 
dipped singly in this solution and then thrown over a horse 
for a short time to drain. The main reducing bath is 
carried out in paddle vats. For every one hundred pounds 
of skins weighed before the first bath, ten pounds of hypo- 
sulphite of soda are dissolved by boiling in about twenty 
gallons of water. This solution is added to the necessary 
quantity of water in the vat and the liquor is well stirred. 
Then five per cent, of the weight of the skins of hydro- 
chloric acid is added to the liquor. The addition of the 
acid changes the color of the liquor to a white or milky 
color. The skins should be thrown in at once, and paddled 
about in the liquor until no trace of the yellow liquor is 
left. A good rule to follow is to enter the skins in the 
liquor in the morning and leave them in during the day, 
then to let them lie quiet during the night and be again 
stirred about for another hour in the morning. This com- 
pletes the tanning. The skins gradually assume a pale 
bluish-white color and slowly lose the raw-hide feeling and 
become leather. 

A new process of two-bath chrome tanning, 

Upon which a patent has been granted, is v . carried out as 
follows : For each one hundred pounds of skins drained 
after the final washing, four pounds of bichromate of potash 



104 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and three pounds of muriatic acid of a strength of 20° Be., 
mingled with the requisite quantity of water, constitute the 
first bath. In this the skins are drummed until the yellow 
liquor has entirely penetrated them, then they are removed 
from the drum and drained for some hours, struck out or 
pressed, and are then ready for the second bath. Into one 
hundred gallons of warm water are poured five pounds and 
five ounces of sulphuric acid 66° Be. This is well mixed 
through the water and then are added by being slowly 
sifted in, four pounds of peroxide of sodium. While this is 
being done the liquor should be constantly stirred. When 
the powder has been added the previously chromed skins 
are entered into the bath and paddled until they are 
tanned. 

Another Method. 

There are several methods of tanning goatskins with the 
one-bath chrome liquors in practical use. A common pro- 
cess consists of first tawing the skins in a solution of sulphate 
of alumina and salt, and then giving them the chrome 
liquor. This may be done in various ways. A process in 
common use is carried out as follows : The skins are taken 
after the washing in warm borax water, drained and 
weighed. For every one hundred pounds in the pack, 
three pounds of sulphate of alumina, four pounds of glauber 
salt and five pounds of common salt are dissolved in six 
gallons of water. The glauber salt may be omitted and the 
quantity of common salt increased to eight or nine pounds. 
This solution is put into a drum with the skins, and the 
latter milled in the liquor for three-quarters of an hour, or 
until the tawing materials have been taken up by the skins 
and the grain has become smooth and free from stringiness. 
At the end of this time the skins may be removed from the 
drum, thrown over horses and allowed to drain for a few 
days, the longer the better, or they may be tanned with the 
chrome liquor without being removed from the drum. The 



THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. 105 

usual quantity of chrome liquor required by one hundred 
pounds of skins is three gallons. This is diluted with three 
gallons soft water, and the six gallons of liquor divided into 
three portions. The first portion is given to the skins 
at the end of three-quarters of an hour, and the skins 
drummed therein for thirty minutes ; then the second por- 
tion is added and the skins drummed for another thirty 
minutes, then the last portion is given to the skins and the 
whole drummed for from one to two hours, or until the 
skins are thoroughly tanned. The skins are allowed to lie 
in the liquor over night and are then drained for twenty- 
four hours, after which they are washed for thirty minutes 
in warm borax water and for twenty minutes in clear, cold 

water. 

Goatskins may also be tanned 

Directly after the drenching and washing with the one- 
bath chrome liquor without the use of the sulphate of 
alumina and salt. The advantages of the last two articles 
are that the skins are plumped and filled somewhat, the 
fibres are kept from being drawn and the skins are kept 
in such condition that they can be struck out after tanning 
without springing back, which is sometimes a great annoy- 
ance in currying chrome leather. 

When the sulphate of alumina and salt are not used, the 
washed and drained skins are drammed in a salt solution, 
ten pounds of salt in five gallons of water for every one 
hundred pounds, for twenty minutes. Then the chrome 
liquor is added in portions of one or two gallons at a time 
until three gallons have been used for every one hundred 
pounds, and the skins drummed in this until they are 
tanned through. This usually requires three hours, 
although the skins should be left in the liquor for twenty- 
four hours so as to give the salts taken up by them time to 
act upon the fibres. A washing in warm borax water for 
fifteen minutes and in clear water for thirty minutes com- 
pletes the tanning. 



106 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Good leather is also made by tawing 

The skins in the solution of sulphate of alumina and salt, 
and then drying them out. The longer the skins lie in the 
dry or crust state the better will be the resulting leather. 
When they are to be tanned with the chrome liquor they 
are placed in a drum with warm water and washed therein 
until every spot is uniformly moistened. Then the chrome 
liquor is given to them. The calf-kid tannage of salt, alum, 
flour and oil may be applied previous to the chrome process, 
and when this is done very little fat-liquor is needed to 
impart to the leather the requisite degree of softness. Soft 
water should be used with one-bath chrome liquors, as hard 
water contains lime, which sometimes produces undesirable 
effects. 

Another good method 

Of tanning the skins is by giving them the sulphate of 
alumina and salt in the drum, then removing the skins 
from the drum to tan them in the chrome liquors in vats. 
In carrying out this process the skins are treated in much 
the same manner as when they are being tanned in bark or 
sumac liquors. The tannage is begun in a weak liquor, 
and after they begin to absorb the tanning material, the 
liquor is strengthened until it is fairly strong. For every 
one hundred pounds of skins three gallons of tanning liquor 
are used. One gallon is added to the water at the beginning 
and the balance after the skins have begun to tan. Or for 
each one hundred gallons of water two gallons of the con- 
centrated tanning liquor are added, thus making a two 
per cent, liquor. This is a good strength to begin with. 
As the skins tan the bath should be strengthened by the 
addition of more tanning material until it becomes a four 
or six per cent, solution. Some salt is also required. It 
keeps the skins open and plump, and receptive to the 
tanning liquor, thus hastening the process. Enough water 
should always be used to enable the skins to float and turn 



THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. 107 

in the liquor by the action of the paddles. - The skins 
gradually assume a greenish-blue color, and when this color 
has penetrated the thickest skin the tanning is done. The 
process usually takes from one to two days, according to 
the strength of the liquor and the thickness of the skins. 
No harm can come to the skins by remaining longer in the 
liquor than is necessary. It is important that every skin 
be thoroughly tanned, as a thin sheet of raw substance 
through the center causes them to be hard and tinny when 
dried out. 

The vat method of tanning is cheaper than the drum 
method, as much strength is left in the liquor after a pack 
of skins is tanned and this can be exhausted by a fresh 
pack. The suggestions that have been given in regard to 
the washing after drum tanning apply also to skins that 
have been tanned in vats. 

A method of tanning goatskins with the one-bath 'process, 

That results in the production of plump leather, is carried 
out as follows : After the bating and washing the skins are 
pickled in a solution of sulphuric acid, salt and water. 
This liquor may be made of two and one-half quarts of 
sulphuric acid, and fifty pounds of salt in a sufficient 
volume of w r ater to enable the skins to be stirred about. 
While the skins are in this liquor they should be constantly 
stirred about ; and taken out at the end of six hours. This 
pickling liquor thoroughly cleanses the skins and bleaches 
them. After they are taken out of the liquor they should 
be allowed to drain for a short time, and after draining 
they are weighed. The first part of the process consists of 
applying to the pickled skins a solution of sulphate of 
alumina and sal soda. For every one hundred pounds of 
skins to be tanned three pounds sulphate of alumina are 
dissolved in five gallons of water, by boiling for a few 
minutes, also three pounds of sal soda in five gallons of 
water. The solution of sal soda is slowly poured into the 



108 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

alumina solution, a portion at a time, and short intervals 
allowed for the foaming to subside. The combination of 
the two solutions forms a milky-white liquor. If this is to 
be used at once, enough cold water should be added to 
reduce its temperature to 85 degrees. The pickled skins, 
after draining, are placed in the drum with ten pounds of 
salt and five gallons of water for every one hundred pounds 
of skins. The skins are drummed in this solution for five 
minutes until the salt has penetrated them. Then the 
solution of sulphate of alumina and sal soda is poured into 
the drum, and the skins drummed for thirty minutes. 
For each hundred-weight of skins in the drum one gallon of 
tanning liquor is next given to the skins, and the whole 
drummed for one-half hour, then another gallon for every 
hundred weight of skins is poured into the drum, and the 
skins drummed for one hour, then another gallon of tanning 
material for each hundred w T eight of skins is added and the 
skins drummed for from one to two hours, according to their 
thickness, until they are well struck through with the tan- 
ning liquor. To complete the process one-half pound of salts 
of tartar is dissolved in a little water and poured into the 
drum, and the drumming continued for one-half hour. At 
the end of this length of time, the tanning should be com- 
plete ; but if any doubt exists in the mind of the tanner, the 
skins may be drummed for another hour, and then allowed 
to remain in the liquor over night. The tanned skins may 
now be removed from the drum and thrown over horses 
and allowed to drain for at least twenty-four hours, thus 
giving the tanning material taken up by them time to 
take thorough effect. This is followed by a washing in 
borax water, preferably warm (one pound of borax for each 
one hundred pounds of skins) for thirty minutes, and then 
in clean water for one hour or until the leather is perfectly 
neutral to the taste, after which it is ready for the work of 
striking out, shaving, coloring and finishing. 



THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. 109 

Another satisfactory method 
Of tanning the pickled goatskins consists of drumming the 
skins for fifteen minutes in a solution of glauber salt con- 
sisting of one pound of the salt dissolved in eight gallons 
of water. At the end of this time the chrome liquor is 
applied to the skins, in quantities of one gallon at a time 
at intervals of one half-hour until three gallons have been 
used for every hundred weight of skins. The drumming 
in the chrome liquor usually requires about two and a 
half hours. By the end of this time the skins are usually 
well struck with the chrome liquor. In a small quantity 
of water one-half pound of bicarbonate of soda for each one 
hundred pounds of skins is dissolved and poured into the 
drum and the skins milled for another thirty minutes. 
Enough water should now be added to the contents of the 
drum to cover the skins, and the skins left in the liquor 
over night. After draining for twenty-four hours the 
tanned skins are washed for thirty minutes in warm water. 
Prolonged washing is not necessary in this instance, as is 
the case when sulphate of alumina is used in tanning. 

The one-bath methods of tanning that have been de- 
scribed are very simple and safe. Unless serious mistakes 
are made, which is not likely, good saleable leather results 
from their use. The simplicity of the one-bath process is 
its greatest recommendation. Tanolin is the chrome liquor 
referred to in the above directions. 

A Neiu Process of Acid Tanning. 

One of the most essential qualities of goatskin leather is 
a smooth, fine grain. A new process of acid tanning that 
produces this desired result has recently been introduced. 
It is applied practically in the following manner : While it 
partakes to some extent of the nature of the original two- 
bath process, it is really a one-bath process. Four pounds 
of bichromate of potash are used for each hundred pounds 
of skins. This quantity of potash is mixed with three 
pounds of muriatic acid of a strength of twenty degrees Be. 



110 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The skins are treated to this solution in a vat for a period 
of time long enough to enable the yellow liquor to pene- 
trate the thickest skin. Without removing the skins from 
this chrome liquor two solutions — called the S. Z. solution 
and the S. K. solution — are added, in the proportion of 
twenty per cent, of the former and thirty-five per cent, 
of the latter. These two solutions should be well mixed 
together before being given to the skins. After the two 
solutions have been mixed and added to the chrome liquor, 
five per cent, of the weight of the skins of sulphuric acid is 
mixed with about thirty times its weight of water and 
added to the bath. To prevent the acid from coming in 
direct contact with the skins, it should be added to the bath 
through a lead-lined funnel long enough to reach the 
bottom of the vat. While these liquors are being added 
the skins should be kept in constant motion. At the end 
of one and one-half days the tanning is done, although the 
skins may be left for a longer time in the liquor without 
injury. No contraction of the fibres results when this pro- 
cess is used, and no sulphur is present as in the older 
chrome process. 

The S. Z. solution consists of eighty pounds of nitrite of 
soda dissolved in eighty-four pounds of hot water. The 
S. K. solution is composed of forty-eight pounds of fresh 
chloride of lime, forty-eight pounds of soda-ash and three 
hundred and eighty-four pounds of hot water. The soda 
ash is first dissolved in the hot water, and when it is all 
dissolved the chloride of lime is added through a sieve. 
While this is being done the liquor should be constantly 
stirred. When all the lime has been stirred in, the liquor 
is allowed to rest for two days, until all the sediment has 
settled to the bottom of the vessel. The clear liquor is 
drawn off and used in the process, while the sediment is 
thrown away. Both liquors S. Z. and S. K. may be kept 
in one vessel, carboy, vat or hogshead, provided the proper 
proportions are kept up, and when it is wanted the required 



THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. Ill 

quantity is taken out and used. A wooden tank, tub or 
hogshead should be used for making the solutions. Goat- 
skins intended for glazed kid or patent or enameled stock 
are tanned in this process without pickling, being taken 
direct from the drenches and treated to the chrome liquor 
of the first part of the process. 

CHROME TANNING ALUM-TANNED GOATSKINS. 

Very fine kid leather is made by subjecting goatskins to 
a process combining alum and chrome tanning. Leather 
made by this process is full and plump, soft, and of fine 
grain and texture. For one hundred pounds of skins thor- 
oughly bated and washed, and weighed after draining, an 
alum process is prepared consisting of nine pounds of alum, 
three pounds of salt and thirty pounds of wheat flour, thor- 
oughly mixed together in fifteen gallons of water at a tem- 
perature of ninety degrees. To this liquor are. added twelve 
pounds of egg yolk, which must be thoroughly incorporated 
with the other ingredients by vigorous stirring. In place 
°f G gg yolk alone being used, a mixture of egg yolk and oil 
may be used, about two-thirds egg yolk and one-third olive 
oil combined together. The skins and the solution are 
placed in a drum, which is set in motion and the skins 
drummed in the liquor for an hour, or until they have ab- 
sorbed the contents of the drum. This completes the first 
step in the process, and is commonly called tawing. The 
tawed skins are next hung up and dried out; and after 
drying they should be allowed to lie in the dry condition 
before being finished. 

The chrome part of the process consists in submitting the 
skins to a one-bath chrome liquor. When this is to be 
done the dry skins are uniformly moistened with warm soft 
water, and are then tanned in a drum in a chrome liquor. 
It usually requires three gallons of liquor and three hours 
drumming to complete the process, after which the skins 
are washed and finished the same as any other chrome 



112 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

leather, with the exception that no fat-liquoring is required. 
The skins can also be tanned by this process by omitting 
the egg yolk and oil from the alum process and using only 
alum, salt and flour ; and then after the skins have been 
chrome tanned to fat-liquor them with a fat-liquor of soap 
and oil, or of egg yolk and oil, then drying the leather out 
and finishing it in the usual way. 

SUGGESTIONS AND PRECAUTIONS. 

A very good rule to follow in the making of light leather 
by any chrome process of tanning is to sort the skins at the 
beginning of the work in the beam-house into three grades, 
according to weight or thickness : light, medium and heavy. 
When each class is treated by itself, the advantages gained 
by sorting are noticed in the much more uniform quality 
of the leather that results when a mixed lot of skins is 
treated without sorting. Home skins are open and porous, 
while others are close and tight-grained, and if both kinds 
are worked through together, the finished leather is liable 
to be very uneven in quality and texture. The open por- 
ous skins absorb more lime than others and absorb it in 
less time, while the close, hard skins will stand, and gen- 
erally require, more thorough drenching and washing than 
the open porous skins. 

The advantage gained by sorting the skins is especially 
apparent when a one-bath process of tanning is used. When 
the skins are nearly all of the same thickness, after being in 
the liquor a certain length of time they will be uniformly 
tanned, whereas if some of the skins are thick and heavy 
and others are thin and light, the thin ones will be tanned 
through in a much shorter time than the heavy ones. A 
saving of time, labor and tanning materials is accom- 
plished by judicious sorting of the skins before they are 
tanned. A liberal quantity of salt should be used in the 
tanning liquor. It not only keeps the skins open and 
plump and receptive to the tanning liquor, thus hastening 



THE CHROME TANNING OP GOATSKINS. 113 

the process somewhat, but also helps in making a light, soft 
leather. When chrome-tanned skins finish up hard and 
tinny, it may be taken for granted that either the stock 
was not limed enough before tanning, not thoroughly leath- 
ered, or not sufficiently lubricated with fat-liquor. Thor- 
ough liming and drenching are necessary for a good tan- 
nage that will carry the grease well. It is also highly 
important that the skins be entirely tanned and no thin 
sheet of raw material be left through the center thus caus- 
ing the skins to be hard and papery. 

Two-bath processes require great nicety of proportions in 
order to get satisfactory results, and it is much easier to go 
wrong and suffer failure than to get the process right and 
achieve success. When a two-bath process is used and the 
chromic acid of the first bath does not penetrate through 
every fibre and the reducing agent of the second bath does 
not completely reduce the chromic acid to chromic oxide, 
the leather, being not fully tanned, dries out hard and stiff. 
If a one-bath process is used and the tanning material does 
not penetrate every fibre, the skins do not get completely 
tanned and the same trouble occurs. There is no economy 
in saving a few cents' worth of tanning material and losing 
dollars because of faulty leather. One-bath liquors, when 
used in paddle vats, are handled in much the same manner 
as bark or sumac liquors ; that is, the skins are started in a 
weak liquor and this is gradually strengthened until the 
tanning is finished. The object of using a weak liquor at 
the start is to prevent the astringent liquor drawing or 
puckering the grain. A two per cent, liquor is usually 
used at the start, that is, two gallons of concentrated tan- 
ning liquors used in one hundred gallons of water, and this 
is gradually strengthened by additions of chrome liquor 
until it becomes a four to six per cent, solution. Soft water 
is required by most one-bath processes, as hard water con- 
tains quantities of lime and magnesia salts. 

When the skins are perfectly free from dirt and lime they 



114 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

begin to absorb the tanning material at once and thus grad- 
ually assume a greenish-blue color and the bath loses its 
strength. In order that the skins may grow into plump 
and well-tanned leather, it is necessary that more tanning 
fluid be added at short intervals in order to feed the leather 
and keep the strength of the liquor at the proper point. 
Skins left too long in a weak liquor tan out thin and lifeless. 

When the tanning is completed and the skins are taken 
out of the liquor, considerable tanning material is left in 
the bath. This should not be thrown away, but another 
lot of skins started in it, and the fresh skins will completely 
exhaust the strength of the bath. A new liquor can be 
prepared and the skins from the old liquor tanned out in 
the new by strengthening it from time to time. In this 
way great economy in the cost of tanning can be achieved. 

When skins are tanned in drums the length of time re- 
quired to tan them can be easily regulated when the skins 
are of uniform thickness. When a mixed lot of skins are 
tanned, by the time the heavy ones are tanned through, 
the thin ones will be tanned more than enough. Prolonged 
drumming is not beneficial to the skins ; on the contrary, 
the less drumming and pounding the skins are subjected to 
the better will be the leather as regards fullness and plump- 
ness. The tight nature of goatskins enables them to stand 
prolonged drumming without injury, while calfskins are 
easily damaged bj^ being drummed too long. 

PAT-LIQUORING. 

One of the most important stages in the whole process of 
making chrome leather is the fat-liquoring, by means of 
which the leather is nourished and lubricated, thus increas- 
ing its strength and softness. When proper lubrication is 
lacking, the fibers, being harsh and dry, grate on each 
other, and the constant friction causes the leather soon to 
become worn out. Only the best materials should be used 
as fat-liquors. Good oils certainly cost more than poor 



THE CHROME TANNING OF GOATSKINS. 115 

oils, yet the better quality of the leather resulting from the 
use of good materials will more than repay the extra cost. 
The tanned skins should be sorted before being fat-liquored. 
When a mixed lot of skins is fat-liquored together the 
light ones absorb more grease than they require, while the 
heavy ones do not get grease enough. An unpleasant odor 
and white grease spots often occur when low-grade animal 
oils are used in finishing leather. These oils are prone to 
decomposition and fermentation, and when these things 
occur the bad smell results, and the oil by spewing out 
upon the surface not only injures the finish, but also the 
appearance of the leather. Olive oil is the best of all oils 
to use. Its high cost, however, stands in the way of its 
general use. 

Certain defects and their correction. 

An open, porous grain is sometimes caused by liming the 
skins too long and by very low bating or drenching. This 
fault may be partly overcome if not entirely eradicated by 
the application of a weak solution of lactic acid before the 
leather is finished. This seems to tighten the grain some- 
what as well as to dry up the surface grease, and this assists 
in getting a clear, bright finish. A grey bottom on black 
leather is sometimes the result of the dye not having been 
gotten down into the grain. By first staining the skins a blue 
or purple the final color of the leather is much improved, the 
blue or purple color serving as a foundation for the black. 
It is generally desirable to have the flesh colored through, 
and to accomplish this the dye must be used warm and 
thoroughly milled into the leather by means of a drum. 
Considerable difference is often noticed between different 
lines of skins as regards fullness and plumpness along the 
sides and in the flanks. Some skins are well filled and 
plump in these parts, while others are very loose and flabby, 
sometimes to such an extent as to impair the value of the 
leather and to cause annoyance and loss to the cutter. The 



116 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

higher-priced skins are not often afflicted in this way, since 
in the grading of the skins the condition of the sides and 
flanks is one of the chief things taken into consideration in 
determining into what grade a skin should go. Some 
classes of skins are naturally more flanky than others. 
Among goatskins the Patna and Brazilian skins are the 
least flanky of any, while the cheaper skins, such as the 
Chinas and some European and African skins, are not only 
coarse-grained but coarse and loose along the sides and in 
the flanks. When this condition is natural in a skin it is 
impossible to be overcome, although it can be somewhat 
diminished by judicious handling by the tanner. When 
the sides and flanks are naturally full and plump before 
tanning, and then are loose and flabby after tanning, it is 
generally the result of improper methods of working the 
skins, especially in the beam-house. A faulty condition 
of the flanks is often caused by the skins having been limed 
too long. Prolonged liming causes the skins to become 
loose and open by reason of skin substance being dissolved 
by the lime. The flanks being naturally thin and open 
are the most liable to show up the damage done by over 
liming. Nothing that the tanner can do will overcome the 
injury done in this way. Chrome tannages do not fill the 
leather nor produce plumpness as other tannages do, and 
for these reasons the skins must be handled during the pro- 
cesses of the beam-house in such a manner as to gilard 
against loss of substance and plumpness as much as pos- 
sible. A short, quick liming in a clean mixture of either 
lime and sulphide of sodium or lime and red arsenic results 
in preparing the skins in a short time without the loss 
of substance which always causes the leather to be thin and 
soft. Some plumpness can be acquired by tawing the skins 
in a solution of alum and salt before chrome-tanning them, 
but this is not always practicable. The skins are also some- 
times injured by the prolonged drumming to which they 
are subjected when drums are used. When they are tanned 



THE CHROME TANNING OP GOATSKINS. 117 

in paddle-vats they are not pounded, and by being allowed 
to absorb the tanning material slowly they grow into fairly 
plump leather. 

Goatskins are generally afflicted with coarse, rough grain along 
the necks and shoulders. 

By skillful handling by the tanner this defect may be to 
some extent overcome. It must be done before the skins 
are tanned, during the process of bating or drenching. 
Some bates give a smoother and more elastic grain than 
others, but they are also liable, unless carefully manipu- 
lated, to reduce the skins to the condition of rags, and 
when skins so completely reduced are tanned, the leather 
is very loose and lifeless. Manures produce good results on 
goatskins provided the skins are not reduced too much, and 
after the manure bating the skins should be given a wash- 
ing off in a warm lactic acid bath for a few minutes. A 
coarse, rough grain is also sometimes caused by fresh white 
lime used towards the end of the liming process. A manure 
bate is the best to use to accomplish the reduction of the 
rough grain and give the grain the smoothness and softness 
so much desired, but it must be carefully handled. Some 
materials used as bates remove or neutralize the lime with- 
out reducing the skin ; that is, they do not attack the sub- 
stance of the skins, but leave them full and plump, and 
skins so prepared always work out with considerable plump- 
ness and life. The cheaper grades of goatskins are all rough 
and coarse in grain and fibre. Unless such skins are very 
carefully handled, they will not result in very desirable 
leather, as the faulty grain and texture prevent their beiug 
used for any except second-class purposes. The coarseness 
can be somewhat lessened by careful beam-house work, but 
of course never completely eliminated. Much depends, too, 
upon how the skins are tanned and the articles used in 
tanning and coloring them. The quality of leather is pro- 
duced more by the methods of working the skins during 



118 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the early process of the beam-house than by the actual pro- 
cess of tanning. Skins that have been mistreated in the 
beam-house will never make good leather, no matter what 
tannage is used. Unless the materials used in tanning the 
skins are thoroughly removed from them, they will ferment 
in the leather, and not only make it greasy, but will cause 
white spots to appear upon the grain, resembling mildew. 
The alkaline fat-liquors tend to counteract acidity in the 
skins to some extent, but they never entirely remove it 
until the cause is removed. 

Some tanners of goatskins after washing them thoroughly 
in borax water place them for a few hours in a hot bath of 
sumac. This serves to bleach the skins, to fill them some- 
what, and to soften them, giving them a soft, smooth feel. 
The treatment of chrome leather with any substance con- 
taining tannin tends to open the grain somewhat, and when 
the tannin solution is too strong, to roughen the grain. 

While salt serves a very useful purpose in chrome tan- 
ning, its use in excessive quantities makes the leather too 
soft and open. Instead of using large quantities of salt, it 
is better to use not more than six pounds of salt for each 
hundred pounds of skins, and to start the skins in a weak 
chrome liquor and to gradually strengthen it. This pro- 
cedure prevents the drawing of the grain and avoids mak- 
ing the leather soft and open. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

THE FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS 

INTO COLORED AND BLACK, GLAZED 

AND DULL LEATHER. 

The finishing of goatskins that have been tanned by a 
chrome process into colored or black leather involves a 
number of processes, the objects of which are to give to the 
skins the desired color, degree of softness and pliability, 
uniformity of thickness, and, in the case of glazed leather, 
the smooth and bright face surface. 

After the washing of the skins is completed, the skins 
should be well struck out by hand or on machine, or they 
may be pressed or wrung, in order to remove from them as 
much of the surplus water as possible. 

When struck out or pressed the skins should be shaved, 
and during the shaving kept from all stain and grease, be- 
cause at this stage of the process the skins absorb stain and 
grease readily, and these interfere with the coloring and 
finishing. By the shaving the skins are made of uniform 
thickness, and the flesh side is made clean and smooth, a 
necessary condition when the leather is to receive a glazed 

finish. 

Black. 

When the grain side of the leather is to be dyed black, it 
is customary to first color the skins blue or purple upon the 
flesh side. To accomplish this various methods may be 
used. The following method is a very practical one, and 
produces a very satisfactory result. The skins are drummed 
in a sumac liquor, consisting of three or four ounces of liquid 
extract of sumac in five gallons of warm water for each 
dozen skins. The sumac serves as a mordant. Then the 

(119) 



120 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

skins are dyed with a purple aniline, about three ounces 
of the same being required by each dozen skins. After the 
purple aniline has been applied, the skins are passed through 
logwood, hemolin or hsematine liquor and then blacked 
with a striker, and finally dyed with a fast black aniline at 
a temperature of 130 degrees. The black aniline may be 
omitted and the grain blacking done with logwood and 
striker. This procedure leaves the skins blue upon the 
flesh and black upon the grain. 

The grain blacking may be done by passing the skins 
through a coloring machine, or by folding them through 
the centre, grain side out, and working them through the 
dye in trays or dye-boxes. Palmetto extract may be used 
in place of the sumac and in the same manner. It pre- 
pares the skins to receive any dye material, and makes the 
grain smooth and solid and less liable to peel. The flesh 
side of the skins can also be dyed blue or purple by the use 
of solutions of logwood and borax ; blue nigrosine and blue 
anilines are also used. Logwood in the extract or powdered 
form produces good results. The results obtained from the 
use of the powdered logwood are better than those obtained 
from the use of chips, since the powders are alwa}'S uniform 
in quality and strength. When paste extract is once frozen 
the color produced is not at all satisfactory, being a muddy 
gray black. The powder as it cannot be frozen always pro- 
duces good results. About six pounds of logwood powder 
dissolved in warm water with one pound of borax or sal 
soda, and brought to the boiling point, give a liquor of 
sufficient strength. If this proves too strong it is an easy 
matter to reduce the quantity of dye used. This solution 
may be used for coloring the flesh blue. A good color can 
also be obtained by adding to it a small quantity of methyl 
violet aniline. In about thirty gallons of logwood, three 
ounces of the aniline, and two ounces of nigrosine may be 
used. The skins should be drummed in this liquor until 
the color is well taken up and developed and then placed 



FINISHING OF CHKOME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 121 

on a table and a striker of iron liquor applied to the grain. 
This gives a blue flesh and black grain. Ten gallons of 
liquor prepared as above are enough for one hundred pounds 
of leather. The skins may also be passed through the 
striker in dye boxes or run through a machine. 

The method of getting a blue flesh with nigrosine 
Is as follows : For each dozen skins, medium size, from two 
to three ounces of blue nigrosine are boiled for a few 
minutes in two gallons of water. This is added to the 
skins in the drum at a temperature of one hundred and 
twenty degrees and the skins drummed in the color for 
thirty minutes, or until the color has been well taken up. 
Unless the leather is thoroughly washed after tanning, the 
blue color will not penetrate as it ought to. The water is 
next drained off, the leather pressed or struck out and is 
then ready for the fat-liquor. When logwood is used a 
black on the grain is obtained by the use of an iron liquor 
or a liquor made of copperas. A good liquor or striker for 
the purpose is made of four and one-half pounds of copperas, 
one and one-half pounds of blue vitriol dissolved by boiling 
in forty gallons of water. A stronger liquor is generally 
used in machine dyeing — twelve pounds of copperas and 
four pounds of blue vitriol to forty gallons of water. To 
the first formula add one and one-half pounds of ground 
nutgalls and one pound of epsom salts to each six pounds 
of copperas and blue vitriol combined. When the skins 
are dyed upon tables a small quantity of ammonia should 
be added to each pailful of logwood dye. This is applied 
to the skin and well rubbed in, then the striker is applied, 
the skin struck out again, more dye applied and more 
striker. The skins are next washed off in warm water and 
again struck out. 

The fat-liquoring and grain-blacking may be accom- 
plished in one operation. The black is composed of warm 
logwood liquor in which are dissolved five pounds gum 



122 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

arabic. In another vessel are dissolved eight pounds of 
copperas. Into twenty-five gallons of strong logwood liquor 
are mixed the gum and copperas solution. After the fat- 
liquoring has been accomplished this black liquor is added 
to the skins in the drum, and the skins drummed therein 
for five minutes, after which they are washed in cold water, 
and struck out either by hand or on the machine. 

The leather can also be blacked by dyeing on a machine, 
by brushing as has been suggested, or it may be folded 
and dyed in dye boxes as follows : The skins are folded 
through the center and smoothed out with a glass slicker, 
so that no blacking will reach the blue flesh and mar its 
appearance. The skins are passed first through warm log- 
wood liquor and then through the striker in dilute form, 
washed off and finished in the usual way. A few fustic 
chips boiled with logwood liquor intensify the black. 

THE USE OF PERMANGANATE OF POTASH IN COLORING 
LEATHER. 

One important advantage gained from the use of per- 
manganate of potash is that about one-half the quantity of 
logwood liquor usually employed will be found sufficient. 
This effects a considerable saving. 

The beneficial effects of permanganate of potash to 
chrome-tanned goatskins intended for glazed kid must be 
apparent to those who have given it a careful trial. The 
question is how to apply it to the leather with the least 
trouble and labor to produce the best results. Either of two 
methods may be followed. 

1st. In a reel containing 650 gallons of water add five 
pounds of permanganate of potash, which has been pre- 
viously dissolved in a little hot water. The temperature of 
the bath should be about one hundred and ten degrees Fah. 
The skins upon coming from the tanning liquors are thor- 
oughly washed and are then entered into the above bath. 
After remaining in the bath with the paddles revolving for 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 123 

abtfut thirty minutes, the stock is removed, horsed up for 
twenty or thirty minutes, and the usual operations of stain- 
ing, fat-liquoring and coloring may now be proceeded with 
in the ordinary manner. This treatment with permanga- 
nate of potash kills all traces of sulphurous acid in the 
skins, therefore it is not necessary to use alkalies such as 
soda or borax in the water in which skins are washed from 
the reducing bath, as is generally the practice. Or the per- 
manganate may be applied to the stock in this manner. 

2nd. After tanning, wash the skins, stain and fat-liquor 
them in the usual manner. The skins are then smoothed 
out with a slicker, and, after being folded, grain side out, 
each skin is dipped into a bath consisting of a solution of 
permanganate of potash, which is prepared in the following 
manner : Five pounds of permanganate of potash are dis- 
solved in thirty gallons of water to form a stock solution. 
Of this stock solution one gallon is mixed with twelve gal- 
lons of water, which forms a bath capable of treating one 
hundred pounds of skins. In preparing the bath in the 
first instance the percentage of permanganate solution may 
be increased to about two gallons ; but after treating the 
first batch of skins, an addition of one gallon of the solu- 
tion for each subsequent batch of one hundred pounds of 
skins will be sufficient to maintain the bath at the proper 
strength. After allowing the stock to be drained well, the 
final coloring may then be proceeded with in the ordinary 
manner, except that one-half the usual quantity of logwood 
liquor will be sufficient. If the permanganate does not ap- 
pear to strike evenly and the stock shows any indications 
of spots, streaks or teeth, a little salts of tartar should be 
added to the bath, or the stock solution may be prepared 
by dissolving five pounds of permanganate and two and 
one-half pounds of salts of tartar in thirty gallons of water. 
The workmen who dip the stock in the permanganate 
liquor should wear rubber gloves. 

The advantages resulting from this process are that a fine 



124 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

base or foundation for the color is formed ; the grain of the 
leather appears smoothed down ; all roughness, stringiness, 
beardiness lessened, and presenting when glazed a smooth, 
fine, unctuous feel, a brilliant, lustrous color and a high 
clear finish. 

The methods employed in coloring the skins, after they 
have been treated with permanganate of potash, vary, de- 
pending upon the color or the shade that is desired. Skins 
treated with permanganate of potash may be colored any 
shade of color. For tan shades, the preliminary treatment 
of the skins may be with a solution of tanning material 
such as sumac or gambier, and after this has been applied 
to the skins, the permanganate of potash is applied, and 
this is followed by an application of aniline dye of the de- 
desired shade. By subjecting skins to this treatment, more 
permanent and uniform results are obtained. The process 
is applicable to skins tanned by the use of alum, bark or 
other materials as well as to chrome-tanned skins. It has 
been used in practice, however, mostly upon goatskins in- 
tended for glazed kid. 

This process is patented by W. N. Morris, Princeton, N. J. 

COLORING CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS "WITH ANILINE DYES. 

Chrome-tanned goatskins are readily colored any shade 
with aniline dyes, provided they are first properly prepared 
to receive the dye, and the right materials and methods are 
used in the coloring operations. There are numerous 
methods used by practical leather dyers in their work. 
These methods, of course, vary according to the experience 
of the operator, each dyer having learned by personal ex- 
perience the best method adapted to his particular needs. 
The most common method of preparing this class of leather 
for the reception of aniline dyes, is by the use of tanning 
extracts, such as sumac, hemlock, palmetto and gambier, 
applied as mordants. 

Before any attempt is made at coloring the skins, how- 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 125 

ever, it is very essential that they be thoroughly washed in 
order to rid them of all acids and salts acquired during the 
process of tanning. This washing needs to be very thor- 
ough ; and before the skins are colored they are generally 
shaved and made of uniform thickness and smooth and 
clean upon the flesh. During the processes of washing, 
pressing or striking out, and shaving the skins should be 
kept from contact with stain and grease, which are readily 
absorbed by them at this stage of the work and interfere 
with the subsequent coloring and finishing. 

The tanning materials used as mordants frequently con- 
tain gummy matter which causes spots to appear upon the 
leather. To avoid this, the solution should be carefully 
strained before it is used. Perhaps the most commonly 
used tanning material in coloring chrome-tanned goat- 
skins is sumac. This article by reason of the small amount 
of coloring matter that it contains is naturally adapted to 
the production of light and fancy shades. It is used in 
various ways. Upon small and medium size skins, about 
four ounces of liquid extract of sumac may be used, for 
each dozen skins. The sumac is mixed with water at a 
temperature of 110 degrees Fah., and the skins may be 
drummed in the liquor so prepared for twenty minutes. 
Dry powdered sumac is also used. After the skins have 
been washed and shaved they are run in a pin mill drum 
in a bath of warm water at a temperature of 110 degrees, 
to which about two pounds of the sumac have been added. 
The particles of sumac serve the very useful purpose of 
taking up any free grease upon the grain of the skins, as 
well as acting as a mordant by giving up tannic acid. 

The skins may also be prepared for coloring in the following 

manner : 
Two hundred pounds of well-washed and shaved leather 
are placed in a drum containing about sixty gallons of 
water at a temperature of 95 degrees F., and a solution 



126 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

of sumac extract prepared of six to eight pounds of ex- 
tract and four to six gallons of hot water. After the 
drum has been set in motion, about one-third of the above 
solution is added, and the remainder when all the tannin 
has been extracted. After thirty or forty minutes' drum- 
ming, the skins will have absorbed all the tannin, and the 
exhausted liquor may then be run off. After this the skins 
are washed for about fifteen minutes with cold or lukewarm 
water, then struck out or pressed without being allowed to 
dry out. 

Chrome-tanned skins must in every instance be colored before 

they become dry, 
As no method has yet been discovered by which the dried 
skins can be colored. Instead of sumac extract, a fresh 
infusion of sumac leaves may be employed ; and when 
dark- shades are to be dyed, the sumac may partly, up to 
two-thirds, be replaced advantageously by cube gambier or 
terra japonica. The skins may also be treated with sumac 
in tubs or vats, by being left for some hours in a warm 
bath of the same. The quantity of sumac used may be the 
same as above suggested, the material being mingled with 
warm water in a tub or vat, instead of a drum. From the 
sumac bath the skins are washed off. This procedure gives 
the skins a very light color, in fact, when skins are treated 
in this way and are dried and finished without coloring, they 
make nearly white leather. The sumac tends to soften the 
skins, besides serving as a mordant. After skins have been 
treated with sumac, they should be given a solution of 
either tartar emetic or antimonine, by which all uncom- 
bined tannin is overcome, the grain of the skin is cleared, 
and the aniline dye is fastened evenly and firmly upon the 
leather. 

Fustic. 
A material very frequently used as a mordant or base 
for aniline dyes upon chrome-tanned goat-skins is fustic. 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 127 

This is used in extract form in much the same manner as 
sumac is used. Five ounces of the liquid extract of fustic 
used for each dozen skins of medium size, produce good re- 
sults. It may be used for either light or dark shades. For 
very dark shades, such as chocolate, dark tans, etc., it may 
be used in equal parts, with a pure logwood extract liquor. 
The skins may be drummed in the liquor at a temperature 
of 110 degrees F. for fifteen minutes, or they may be pad- 
dled or stirred about in the same for thirty minutes. 

Gambier and hemlock extract are sometimes used in 
coloring chrome leather, but not so frequently as sumac or 
fustic. 

Palmetto extract as a mordant. 
Very good results are obtained from palmetto extract 
used as a mordant. This material is a good fastener 
of aniline dyes, and by its use the grain is made solid and 
less liable to peel than when some other extracts are used. 
The grain also remains smooth and does not roughen or 
get loose. About five ounces of the extract may be used 
for each dozen skins at a temperature of 110 degrees, and 
the skins drummed therein for twenty minutes. Or the 
material may be applied to the skins in a reel or vat. For 
one hundred pounds of skins weighed after shaving, 
slightly less than one pint of the extract is required, and 
may be applied to the skins either by drumming in a pin- 
mill for fifteen minutes or by paddling in a reel for thirty 
minutes. Palmetto extract also neutralizes any acid in the 
skins ; and the leather treated with it takes even cooling 
and carries the fat-liquor well. 

Clearing the grain of grease. 
Goatskins that are greasy upon the grain may be cleared 
of such grease by being drummed or paddled in a solution 
of lactic acid, made up of one gallon of the acid mixed with 
fifty gallons of warm water, about 100 degrees F. In this 
solution the skins may be either drummed or paddled for 



128 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

thirty minutes, then washed thoroughly with water before 
being treated with the mordant or coloring materials. The 
use of the acid solution not only removes surface grease but 
also serves to open up the grain a little, thus allowing the 
dyeing materials to go on evenly. 

The following instructions are practical working directions for 
dyeing chrome-tanned goatskins 

Many of the most desirable shades with aniline dyes. These 
instructions will in every instance produce satisfactory re- 
sults when they are carefully and intelligently carried out. 
The skins, previous to the application of the aniline dye, 
may be mordanted with the tanning extracts and in the 
manner that has been described. This work is best done 
in drums. After drumming in the tannin for fifteen or 
twenty minutes, a solution of tartar emetic or of antimonine 
may be added. This may consist of about two ounces of 
either of these materials dissolved in hot water for each 
dozen skins, and added to the tannin bath. The drumming 
is then continued for another fifteen minutes, then the skins 
are washed off in clean warm water and are ready for the 
color bath. The objects of using tartar emetic or antimo- 
nine are that the uncombined tannin resting upon the grain 
of the skins is overcome, the grain is cleared and the aniline 
dye will be firmly fastened upon the leather. The two 
articles are very similar in effect, the antimonine being the 
cheaper article of the two. When they are used it is not 
necessary to use any other article, as for instance bichromate 
of potash to set the colors. Drum coloring is, in almost 
every instance, the preferred method. It is always done 
before the skins are fat- liquored. 

As the skins are always colored before they are dried out 
and finished, and as the drying-out and finishing of the 
leather frequently change the shade, it is very important 
that the dyer knows just the quantity of dye to use in 
order that the skins will come out the required color. The 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 129 

quantity of dye-stuff required for a given lot of skins de- 
pends, of course, upon the size of the skins, large skins re- 
quiring more dye than small ones. Before proceeding to 
carry on coloring operations on any extensive scale at all, 
it is good practice for the dyer to make a few experiments 
on a small scale, say, with one or two dozen skins, and in 
this way learn the exact quantity of material to use. 

Particular care must be taken to have the anilines thor- 
oughly dissolved before they are used. To insure even 
coloring, the color solution should be added to the skins, a 
portion at a time, through the hollow gudgeon of the drum, 
and after all the dye is in, the skins should be drummed 
for at least fifteen minutes. 

Ox-blood shades. 

A dark rich ox-blood shade is obtained on chrome-tanned 
goatskins by mordanting them with tannin extract at a 
temperature of 110 degrees, followed by tartar emetic or 
antimonine. The dye solution may consist of from three to 
six ounces of aniline amaranth, 3 R, according to the size 
of the skins, and from one-eighth to one- fourth of an ounce 
of malachite green. When tartar emetic or antimonine is 
not used to set the color, it is necessary to apply to the 
skins after they have been drummed in the color, one ounce 
of bichromate of potash, dissolved in hot water for each 
dozen skins in the drum. 

Another ox-blood shade is obtained by applying to the 
prepared skins, in a solution at a temperature of 120 de- 
grees, three ounces of amaranth 3 R for one dozen skins of 
average size. This produces a lighter shade of ox-blood 
than the foregoing, the green aniline in that formula being 
used for the purpose of darkening the shade. 

A correct shade of ox-blood may be obtained on two 
dozen skins, measuring sixty feet to the dozen, by mor- 
danting them with a solution of hypernic extract, prepared 
by boiling thoroughly ten pounds of hypernic chips, and 
9 



130 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

straining the solution, and adding the same in portions to 
the skins in the drum. In place of hypernic chips, solutions 
of fustic, sumac or palmetto extract may be used with good 
results. The skins should be drummed in the extract 
liquor for at least twenty minutes, and longer will do no 
harm. Then for the two dozen skins, seven ounces of 
amaranth 3 R are dissolved by boiling and strained and 
applied to the skins at a temperature of 120 degrees. After 
the dye is in, the skins may be drummed for twenty min- 
utes, then three ounces of bichromate of potash may be 
dissolved in two gallons of hot water, and this solution 
added to the contents of the drum and the drumming con-/ 
tinued for ten minutes longer. 

By a combination of Bismarck brown and Russian red, 
another good ox-blood shade is produced. For one dozen 
skins of medium size, about three ounces of Russian red 
are dissolved, and to this solution is added one ounce of 
Bismarck brown. The color solution is applied to the 
skins in the usual way, after they have been mordanted 
with extract. Russian red, used alone, produces a very 
pretty shade of wine color. A combination solution of two 
and one-half ounces of amaranth 1 R in place of the 
amaranth 3 R, and one ounce of chocolate brown also pro- 
duces a full, clear ox -blood shade. 

BROWNS. 

A desirable chocolate brown may be secured by the use 
of three ounces of Chocolate Brown 270, applied after the 
tannin bath. Leather brown F, also produces a desirable 
chocolate shade when saddened with a little green or blue. 
Another chocolate is obtained in the following manner : 
For one dozen skins, five ounces of liquid extract of fustic 
are used. In this the skins are drummed for fifteen min- 
utes, then the tartar emetic or the antimonine is added, and 
the drumming continued for another fifteen minutes, after 
which the skins are washed off and colored with a solution 



FINISHING OP CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 131 

composed of the following dyes : Four ounces of phos- 
phine for leather ; one-fourth of an ounce of leather 
green, M ; one-half ounce of methyl violet, 2 B. The dyes 
must be thoroughly dissolved and well mixed together 
before they are used. Various shades of brown result from 
solutions of phosphine for leather saddened with varying 
quantities of blue, green and purple aniline. Also by a 
combination of phosphine for leather and leather brown, 
in the proportions of one-third as much of the latter as 
the former. 

TAN SHADES. 

The number of tan shades that can be obtained with 
aniline dyes is almost unlimited. Tobacco Brown produces 
a good shade, as does also Bismarck Brown when combined 
with Phosphine and saddened with Neutral Blue. Bismarck 
Brown and a violet aniline also produce a yellow brown. 
New Phosphine G. when used alone and not in combina- 
tion with other dyes, gives a very light, clear yellow tan 
shade. This dye material is of great value to the leather 
dyer. A great number of light and dark shades result 
from its use in conjunction with other dyes in varying pro- 
portions. It is exceedingly fast to light. Combined with 
Methylene Blue, Phosphine G produces a greenish tan 
shade, veiy prettj^ and well developed. 

The solidity and firmness of the skins may be slightly increased 
By washing the skins as they come from the tanning 
bath in a solution of whiting and salt, using about ten 
pounds of salt, and five pounds of whiting in fifty gallons 
of water, one-half of this quantity being sufficient for one- 
hundred pounds of leather. The skins may be drummed 
in this for one-half hour, then washed in clean water until 
the whiting has been entirely washed off, then the skins 
may be shaved and colored. By shaving the skins before 
they are colored a saving in the amount of dyestuff is 
effected. A solution of lactic acid and bichromate of potash 



132 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

in warm water is sometimes made use of in mordanting the 
skins. It may consist of two pounds of the potash and one- 
half gallon of the acid in fifty gallons of water. The skins 
are drummed in this for twenty minutes, washed off and 
colored. 

To a great extent the results obtained in the coloring process are 

influenced and determined by the methods employed in the 

processes through which the shins have been worked 

previous to coloring, 

As well as by the nature and quality of the materials 
used in these processes and the care and skill exercised in 
using them. In other words, the relations between the pro- 
cesses of the beamhouse and tannery to the coloring process 
are very close, and unless the former processes are carried 
out properly, the results obtained in the coloring process 
will not be satisfactory. A great deal, too, naturally, de- 
pends upon the quality of the coloring material used. 
While many of the defects frequently met with on colored 
leather are caused by improper and careless methods of 
dyeing, they are also frequently the results of carelessness 
or ignorance in the earlier processes. 

Goatskins, being usually hard and dry and salty when they are 
received at the tannery, need to be very thoroughly soaked 

and softened before they are depilated or limed. 
Not only is this precaution necessary but they must be freed 
of all salt and dirt, as the removal of these materials has much 
to do with the production of bright and clear-grained leather. 
At the same time the skins should not be soaked too long, 
as this sometimes results in loose and lifeless leather. Foul 
soaks cannot be recommended for skins intended for fancy 
colors, as the grain is often injured in such soaks in such a 
way that later on no one can tell what caused it and the 
blame is laid upon some other portion of the work. A 
shaded and spotted grain often results when foul soaks are 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 133 

used. Fresh clean water is the only safeguard against such 
defects. All salt in the skins should be gotten rid of as 
quickly as possible during soaking, because when it is left 
in the skins when they go into the limes it is liable to cause 
spotted and cloudy grain. 

Chrome tannages do not fill the leather as vegetable tannages do, 

And for this reason some care must be exercised in handling 
the skins during the processes of the beam-house in order 
to prevent loss of plumpness. Sulphide of sodium used 
with lime does not give so much softness to the skins 
as red arsenic, and therefore is not so good for goat leather. 
Red arsenic used in combination with the lime brings the 
skins into good condition for unhairing, and also dissolves 
the amount of substance required to make the leather elastic 
and soft before the strength of the fibres has been weakened. 
The grain is also made soft and smooth. The limes should 
be kept perfectly sweet and clean, and the skins during the 
work of liming and unhairing should not be exposed to the 
air any more than is absolutely necessary, nor be allowed to 
become dry and hard in spots and around the edges. 

Cleansing of lime. 

Another necessary element in the making of fancy colored 
leather is the thorough cleansing of the stock of all lime. 
Lime is the great enemy of the colorman, and leather con- 
taining it, even in very small quantity, never colors satisfac- 
torily. The methods employed in ridding the skins of lime 
are always of much importance, and when the latter are to be 
colored fancy shades the methods take on additional signifi- 
cance. After the skins have been thoroughly cleansed of 
lime by the processes of bating and washing, they should 
be thoroughly slated or worked upon the grain, as the 
cleaner and purer the grain is before tanning, the brighter 
and clearer it will be after coloring and finishing. The 
skins must be thoroughly tanned and no raw substance 



134 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

left through the center. Nothing but the best quality of 
dyeing materials should be used, as the best leather can be 
readily injured by poor dyes. Since among goatskins there 
are marked differences and peculiarities of grain and fibre 
it is good practice, in order that the leather may color uni- 
formly, to sort the skins according to texture and quality 
before any attempt at coloring is made. In order to classify 
the skins to the best advantage the sorter must use judg- 
ment and experience, since the sorting is largely done by 
the feel and appearance of the skins ; the quality of the 
grain, whether it is soft and smooth or rough and hard, 
determines to some extent into which class and color a skin 
should go. The skins that are loose and open in grain and 
fibre should be separated out from those that are close and 
firm and colored separately from them. The lighest-colored 
and clearest-grained skins should be colored the fancy light 
shades, and the spotted or dark-colored skins be worked 
into black or dark shades of color. Many small defects 
that might appear very plainly on light-colored leather and 
reduce its value, are scarcely discernible in dark shades or 
black. 

The quality of the water used in the coloring process 

Has much to do with results obtained. Very hard water 
sometimes causes a faded and dingy appearance of the colors, 
and when such water is used in dissolving aniline dyes it not 
infrequently happens that a portion of the dye settles to the 
bottom of the vessel in the form of a soft mass. This natur- 
ally causes imperfect coloring. It is also imperative that 
the water be clean and free from dirt and foreign substances. 
The undesirable effects of hard water may be prevented and 
such water better adapted for coloring purposes by being 
softened by the addition to it of a small quantity of borax, 
which being a gentle alkali assists somewhat in giving a 
soft feel to the leather. The amount of borax to be used 
depends upon the condition of the water. As a general 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 135 

rule one-half pound is enough for one hundred gallons of 
water, dissolved in a separate vessel and poured into the 
water to be used in coloring. The best water that can be 
used is condensed steam, which can be easily collected for 
use by placing barrels under exhaust steam pipes. This 
water is very soft, pure and clean. When aniline dyes are 
being dissolved care should be taken to dissolve them 
thoroughly and to leave no sediment in the vessel. It is 
well to have the water heated to a temperature of 160 
degrees, then to add the color and to allow it to go into 
solution, after which the liquor may be boiled for a few 
minutes. It is also good practice to strain the dye solution 
before applying it to the skin. 

COLORING CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS WITH SULFAMINE DYES. 

Chrome-tanned goatskins are very satisfactorily colored 
with sulfamine dyes. These dyes, when they are properly 
used, produce full, clear and uniform shades of color. 
They are not used in the same manner that aniline dyes 
are used. No mordanting with tannic acid is required. It 
is merely necessary to thoroughly wash the skins after they 
are tanned, in order to rid them of all salts and acids and 
to get them in perfectly neutral condition before applying 
the dye. The skins should also be free from grease. "The 
dyeing may be done in drums or reels, such as are in com- 
mon use. In order that the color may penetrate readily, a 
small quantity of carbonate of ammonia may be added to 
the dye liquor, but this must be neutralized afterwards by 
a little acetic acid. 

Tlie following instructions are practical working . directions for 

getting several very desirable shades with sulfamine dyes. 

Browns and dark tans : A very desirable dark shade of 

tan is obtained by using for each dozen skins of medium 

size, 2J ozs. of Sulfon Brown B., | oz. Sulfon Carmine B, 

These dyes are dissolved in boiling 



136 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

water, a small quantity of carbonate of ammonia is added, 
and the color solution is ready for use. The temperature 
of the dye liquor should be 130 degrees, and the skins 
may be drummed for fifteen minutes or paddled in a reel 
for thirty minutes. 

A shade of tan somewhat similar to the above, differing 
only by being a shade lighter, is obtained on one dozen 
medium-size skins by the use of \ oz. Urania Blue, \\ 
ozs. Sulfamine Orange P, 2 ozs. Sulfon Brown B, used in 
the same manner as above suggested. A brownish-tan 
shade is obtained by the use of If ozs. Sulfon Brown B, 
\ oz. Urania Blue K, Used alone, the Sulfon Brown is 
a little too fiery. The Urania Blue serves to sadden, subdue 
and darken the shade. 

A dark chocolate is obtained by the combination of the 
following dyes : 3 ozs. Sulfon Brown B, | oz. Sulfon Car- 
mine B, J oz. Urania Blue. The penetration of the dj^e 
liquor is hastened by adding to it a small quantity of 
Carbonate of Ammonia. 

A chocolate shade is also secured by the use of 2 ozs. 
Sulfon Brown B, f oz. Urania Blue B, I oz. Sulfon Car- 
mine B. The quantities of dyes mentioned are usually re- 
quired for each dozen skins of medium size. Very large 
goatskins, of course, require more dye. 

The following formulas are useful in getting light shades of 
tan, such as are often wanted for shoe and slipper pur- 
poses. 2J ozs. Sulfon Brown G, J oz. Urania Blue B. 
Slightly different is the following : I oz. Urania Blue B, f 
oz. Sulfamine Orange P, 1 oz. Sulfon Brown B. A yellow 
tan results from the use of 1| ozs. Sulfon Brown B, | oz. 
Urania Blue R. This shade is slightly darker than the 
foregoing : f oz. Sulfon Brown B, f oz. Sulfamine Orange 
NO, | oz. Hsematine Powder. No Carbonate of Ammonia 
is required in this last formula. 

For an ox-blood shade, deep, rich and well developed, 5J 
ozs. Sulfon Carmine B, I oz. Sulfamine Yellow D, and 1J 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 137 

ozs. Hsematine Powder may be used. A small quantity of 
Carbonate of Ammonia may be added to good advantage. 
Another ox-blood formula = 1| ozs. Sulfon Brown B, 4f 
ozs. Sulfon Carmine B, 1£ ozs. Hsematine Powder. 

Various shades of green. 
By the use of the following combination of dyes a very 
prett}^ bright green is obtained on one dozen skins : 3f ozs. 
Paranil Yellow, If ozs. Blue J E, J oz. Green P. For a 
darker shade of green may be used, 1 J ozs. Blue J E, 2£ ozs. 
Paranil Yellow. Very light grass greens, 2 ozs. Yellow 
C Y, | oz. Green P. Also for a slightly darker grass green, 
1£ ozs. Green G A, J oz. Sulfamine Yellow D. A dark 
olive green results from the use of 1 oz. Sulfon Brown B, 
1 oz. Blue J E, or, 1 oz. Sulfon Brown B, 1 oz. Green P. 

Fat-liquoring. 

The skins, after being colored, should be fat-liquored at 
once, the surplus water being, of course, struck or pressed 
out before fat-liquoring. The fat-liquor should be used at 
a temperature of 120 degrees F., and the skins drummed 
therein for at least thirty minutes. Care must be taken 
that the fat-liquor is neutral, that is, containing no ex- 
cessive amount of alkali. Some dyes are readily injured by 
an excess of alkali in the fat-liquor. A very good neutral 
fat-liquor capable of imparting great softness and smooth- 
ness to chrome-tanned goatskins may be made by emulsi- 
fying egg-yolk and neatsfoot oil. 

After the fat-liquoring is completed, the skins are struck 
out, given a light application of glycerine and water upon 
the grain, followed by a light coat of oil, and then dried 
out, staked, softened and finished. 

The process of fat-liquoring. 
In order that the skins after being colored may be 
finished into soft, and saleable leather, it is necessary that 
they be suitably treated with grease in order that they may 



138 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

acquire the required qualities of softness and strength. 
This is accomplished by the process of fat-liquoring. To a 
great extent the character and quality of the finished 
leather depends upon how this part of the work is done. 
Nothing can be used that will even in a small degree affect 
the color, or cause the skins to be streaked or spotted. 
Before the skins are fat-liquored it is good practice to sort 
them according to texture and weight, and not to process 
heavy and light skins together. 

After the coloring operations are completed the skins are 
washed off, and struck out or pressed as dry as possible, 
and yet retaining some moisture. A suitable pin mill 
drum is heated with live steam to about 140 degrees, the 
condensed steam drained off and the leather thrown into 
the drum. The drum is set in motion and the skins 
drummed therein for five minutes so as to warm them up. 
Then the fat-liquor is added, a gallon or two at a time, until 
the necessar}^ quantity has been given to the skins. The 
drum should be supplied with a funnel attached to the 
hollow gudgeon, so that the fat-liquor may be added with- 
out stopping the drum. A fat-liquor that imparts great 
softness to the skins, may be made of twenty pounds of 
alkali soft soap and forty pounds of English sod oil in fifty 
gallons of water, thoroughly emulsified. The soap should 
always be boiled first in a few gallons of water, then the oil 
added, and finally enough water run in to make the fifty 
gallons. The fat-liquor should be used hot, at a tempera- 
ture of from 120 to 160 degrees, and about two gallons used 
for each dozen small skins. 

A very good fat-liquor is made as follows: 
Ten pounds of soap, four gallons of neatsfoot oil and 
six pounds of egg-yolk in fifty gallons of water. Be- 
fore the egg-yolk is added the temperature of the soap and 
oil emulsion should be reduced to about ninety degrees, in 
order to prevent coagulation of the albumin of the egg-yolk. 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 139 

From two to three gallons of this fat-liquor are also required 
for each dozen skins, and sometimes more. Fine light 
skins may also be fat-liquored by the use of one pint of egg 
yolk and one-half pint of olive oil for each dozen skins. 
Any excess of water should be guarded against in the 
leather, as too much moisture prevents the uniform absorp- 
tion of the fat-liquor. After the fat-liquor has been applied 
to the skins, they should be drummed therein for twenty 
to thirty minutes, after which they should be laid in piles 
or thrown smoothly over horses for twenty-four hours, so 
that the fat-liquor taken up will have an opportunity to 
combine with the leather fibres. 

Striking out. 
The skins should next be struck out upon the grain and 
given a light coat of glycerine and water, equal parts of 
each. This is put on with a rag or sponge and applied 
evenly over the grain. This gives a smooth, soft feel to the 
leather, and helps in the final finishing. The next step is 
to again strike the skins out, and to apply to the grain a 
light coat of oil. The skins should be very thoroughly 
struck out, all wrinkles and marks of the machine or tool 
removed and the grain laid down flat and smooth. The 
oil that is applied is the last of the subsequent finishing, 
and should be of good quality, free from any tendency to 
gum or spew. The water should be well pressed out of the 
leather before the oil is applied, so that the latter can 
readily penetrate into the body of the skin, where it will 
remain and add strength to the fibres. The next operation 
is the drying out of the leather. After this the skins are 
dampened and worked soft by staking, and the staking and 
drying are repeated until the leather is sufficiently soft and 
perfectly dry. It is generally best to dry colored leather in 
a darkened room, as strong light frequently causes the 
colors to fade. The skins should be dried out rapidly in a 
moderately warm room. After drying and staking the 
leather is ready for the operations of glazing or ironing. 



140 PRACTICAL TANNING. 



GLAZING AND FINISHING. 



A great many leather finishers buy their seasonings in- 
stead of making them. Levant inks are a very superior 
class of finishes, and may be obtained in great variety suit- 
able for all the various kinds of leather. They are not 
injured by frost, and produce excellent results. In finish- 
ing skins into dull finish, they are given a coat of the sea- 
soning, and this is well rubbed into the leather. While 
slightly moist, the skins are rolled or ironed. Sometimes 
the seasoning and ironing are repeated. The grain is thus 
made soft and smooth. For light-colored leather, a color- 
less seasoning is used, while upon black leather black 
seasonings are used, and by reason of the logwood and 
nigrosine they contain, the color of the leather is deepened 
and improved. In many instances the grain must be 
cleared of greasy matter. For this purpose, a solution of 
vinegar and bichromate of potash is used ; also a dilute 
solution of lactic acid. To ten gallons of water, two or 
three gallons of vinegar and a few ounces of the potash 
may be added. Or, to four gallons of water, one gallon of 
lactic acid. Either of these solutions produces good results, 
applied before seasoning, and well rubbed into the grain 
of the leather. After drying, the leather is seasoned either 
with the prepared seasoning or with the liquor that the 
finisher prepares himself. On black leather, a seasoning 
made of the following ingredients and in the proportions 
named, produces a bright, clear, glazed finish : Prepared 
blood, one gallon ; strong nigrosine liquor, one-half gallon ; 
blue-stone, one-half gallon ; iron, one ounce ; logwood, one- 
half gallon. 

This liquor may be diluted or used without dilution, as 
circumstances require. Two or three coats of the liquor are 
usually required to get a perfect finish, thoroughly rubbed 
into the leather, dried and glazed between each applica- 
tion. It is important that the seasoning be well rubbed 



FINISHING OF CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 141 

into the leather, the contrary of this often causing a gray 
bottom to the finish. Another seasoning liquor may be 
prepared by blacking five gallons of logwood liquor with a 
few ounces of copperas. To this are added one and one- 
half pints of blood, five ounces of glycerine and eight 
ounces of ammonia. 

To glaze colored leather, the following seasoning may be 
used : Ten gallons of water, one-half ounce bichromate of 
potash, two pints of acetic acid, and two gallons of egg albu- 
men solution. This is good for the first seasoning. For the 
second seasoning, ten gallons of water, six gallons of blood 
and four pints of vinette produce good results. 

The skins should be perfectly dry before any attempt is 
made at glazing them, and if they are warm as well as dry, 
the finish will come up very bright and clear with little 
machine work. The less seasoning or glazing liquor is 
used to make a bright, clear finish, the better it is, as the 
leather stands handling and wetting better than when large 
quantities of seasoning are applied. After the glazing is 
completed, the leather may receive a light coat of oil, the 
quantity used depending upon the condition of the leather. 
Very little oil is used, the skins being merely wiped over 
with an oily sponge or rag. The results of this light oiling 
are that the finish will stand moisture better than when no 
oil is used. The oil should be of good quality ; low grade 
oils frequently cause injury to the leather by reason of de- 
composing in the leather and spewing out upon the surface 
in the form of white greasy spots that damage the finish. 
This light oiling completes the process, and the leather is 
ready for the market. 

A PROCESS FOR KID GLOVE LEATHER. 

Kid-glove leather of very fine quality and strength may 
be made by applying the following formula to the prepared 
skins: Five pounds of alum, two pounds of salt, twenty 



142 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

pounds of wheat flour and twelve pounds of egg yolk, for 
each one hundred pounds of skins drained and weighed 
after the final washing. The ingredients are made into a 
paste-like liquor with twelve gallons of lukewarm water, and 
applied to 'the skins in a drum. The skins are drummed 
in the same for one hour, or until they have absorbed all 
the ingredients of the paste. They are then hung up and 
dried out and left in the dry condition for some months 
before they are worked out and finished. By being stored 
away, the skins become thoroughly tanned and eventually 
work out into very superior leather. In the place of the 
egg yolk, the soluble oil known as Turkey-red oil may be 
used with good results. Some carbolic acid, salicylic acid 
or tar oil may be added to the oil solution to prevent the 
heating of the oil-stuffed skins while they are stored to cure. 
Skins treated as above may be finally worked out and fin- 
ished into glove material without further tanning. They 
may also be moistened and washed in warm soft water and 
re-tanned in a drum with a one-bath chrome liquor, then 
colored and finished as chrome leather. No fat-liquoring 
is required after the chrome tanning, as the leather works 
out very soft and strong. 

Kid-glove leather may also be made by tawing 

The skins with alum and salt, or sulphate of alumina and salt, 
in a drum, and then, without removing the skins from the 
drum, applying to them the chrome liquor. After chrome 
tanning, the skins should be thoroughly washed, colored 
and then fat-liquored with a mixture of olive oil and egg 
yolk and flour. A fat-liquor of soap, oil and flour may 
also be used. The Turkey-red oil may be used as a fat- 
liquor upon chrome-tanned skins also. 

Skins from which the grain has been removed after liming, 

Such as mochas, etc., may be readily prepared for tan- 
ning into leather by being drenched in a drum, in a solu- 



FINISHING OP CHROME-TANNED GOATSKINS. 143 

tion of lactic acid, one gallon of the same mixed into one 
hundred gallons of warm water, 90 degrees F. The 
drenching consumes from twenty minutes to one-half hour, 
and the skins may then be washed and are ready for tan- 
ning. The methods of tanning that have been* described 
for tanning skins with the grain on may be applied in the 
same manner upon skins from which the grain has been 
removed. 

The essential qualities of glove leather are softness, fine- 
ness of texture and strength. These are largely obtained 
by the methods employed in preparing the skins for tan- 
ning, liming, drenching, etc. The liming should be long 
and thorough, and the bating or drenching also. 



CHAPTER IX. 

DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 
DONGOLA TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 

Very desirable leather is made by what is commonly 
called the Dongola process, or tannage. This tannage is 
especially applicable to sheep and goatskins, and produces 
from the former a leather that very closely resembles gen- 
uine goatskin, although of course sheepskin leather, no 
matter how skillfully it is tanned, never possesses the quali- 
ties that distinguish goatskin leather. The dongola tan- 
nage usually consists of salt, alum and gambier, although 
other tanning materials are sometimes used in place of the 
gambier. Palmetto extract, one of the newer tannins, is a 
good substitute for gambier, as it produces soft, tough and 
well filled leather at less cost than when gambier is used. 
Owing to the fullness and firmness of dongola leather, this 
leather has always been and is now a desirable one to be 
used in the tops of shoes, where a stand-up quality is espe- 
cially desired. Only the better grades of sheepskins are 
used for this class of leather, that is, skins of considerable 
size and good substance, and with a fine, smooth grain. 

Soaking. 

As in all other processes of tanning pelts or skins, the 
first operation is soaking. Sheep pelts are generally not 
heavily salted, and consequently do not need long soaking, 
from ten to fifteen hours being usually sufficient. After 
the pelts have been soaking for a few hours in the water, a 
good practice is to haul them out and let the dirty and 
saltv water drain off, then to soak them for a few hours 

(144) 



D0NG0LA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 145 

longer in clean water. This procedure thoroughly softens 
and cleanses the skins. Before the pelts are depilated the 
water should be well gotten rid of either by draining or by 
extraction. 

Goatskins are usually received by the tanner in dry and 
dry-salted condition, and require longer and more thorough 
soaking than fresh-salted skins. The dry-salted skins are 
readily softened in about twenty-four hours. The pro- 
cedure described above of soaking the skins for a few hours 
in clean water, then changing the water and soaking the 
skins for a few hours longer is a good practice to follow in 
preparing salted goatskins. The flint-dried skins are some- 
what more difficult to soften unless some article is used in 
the water to assist in the soaking. For this purpose a small 
quantity of sulphide of sodium is an advantage, as by its 
use the dried and withered skins are soon brought back to 
the natural soft condition and freed from salt and dirt and 
the grain made bright and clear. The importance of the 
soaking process is often overlooked, and yet it is really a 
process of much importance, coming as it does at the very 
beginning of the work, when neglect or wrong treatment 
will cause trouble later "on. The soak-vats should be fre- 
quently cleaned out and fresh water run in, as this has 
much to do with getting leather with bright clear grain 
and with plumpness and fullness intact. 

Preparing the Skins for Tanning. 

To get the softness and smoothness of grain that are so 
desirable in this class of leather, the processes of liming and 
preparing the skins for tanning need to be well understood, 
as much of the quality of the leather depends upon how 
these processes are carried out. Red arsenic limes are very 
satisfactory to use in preparing goatskins, as they produce 
just the results desired. Sulphide of sodium mixed with 
the lime also produces good results, increasing the tough- 
ness of the grain and fibre, and giving plump, firm skins. 
10 



146 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Tough, firm stock can be obtained by letting the skins lie 
for two or three days in a clear solution of sulphide of 
sodium. The strength of the liquor should be about three 
degrees Baume', and the skins should be left in the liquor 
until the hair can be readily washed off. By this process 
the hair is lost, but the quality and the texture of the 
leather are very satisfactory. After the hair has been re- 
moved the skins may be limed for three or four days in 
weak, clean limes, or a mixture of lime and sulphide of 
sodium may be made up in a vat. About one-third as 
much sulphide of sodium as lime should be used. The 
liquor should be weak at the start, and gradually strength- 
ened each day. In this instance six days liming will be 
sufficient. The red arsenic limes are used in much the 
same manner as the foregoing. The liming is hastened by 
the paddles, as they keep the skins in constant motion. 

The method of depilating sheepskins has been fully 
described. The pelts are generally painted with either a 
clear solution of sulphide of sodium or a mixture of sul- 
phide of sodium and lime, and after the wool has been 
removed the slats are limed for a few days in weak clean 

limes. 

Drenching the Skins. 

The bran drench is well adapted for goat and sheepskins 
to be tanned by the dongola or the combination process, 
as it rids them thoroughly of all lime and softens the grain 
and fibres. For about four hundred skins of average size 
about one-half of a barrel of bran is required. To this is 
added enough water to make a thick mush. This is 
allowed to stand for forty-eight hours, or until it becomes 
sour. This sour bran is poured into a vat holding sufficient 
water to cover the pack of skins. One and one-half quarts 
of sulphuric acid and three pecks of common salt are added 
and the whole mixed together, and heated to about ninety 
degrees. A paddling in a drench prepared in this way will 
delime the skins in from four to six hours, thick skins, of 



DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 147 

course, requiring longer time than thin ones. At the end of 
this time the skins will be found to be thoroughly delimed 
and in splendid condition for pickling or tanning without 
further washing. If the leather is to be finally colored 
light and fancy shades, the skins will be improved by wash- 
ing after drenching for a few minutes in warm water. 

Lactic Acid. 

Lactic acid is a very satisfactory article to use in the pre- 
paration of both classes of skins. After the skins come from 
the lime they should be washed for a few minutes in warm 
water and then drenched in a lactic acid bath. The 
quantity of acid usually required is seldom more than three 
quarts for each one hundred gallons of water in the paddle 
vat. The temperature of the liquor should be about ninety 
degrees. After the acid has been poured into the vat it 
should be thoroughly stirred throughout the water and the 
skins entered. This drench readily dissolves the lime in 
from one to two hours. At the end of this time the skins 
may be taken out of the drench and worked on the grain, 
then washed for a few minutes in warm water and are then 
ready to be pickled. 

Pickling the skins. 

A good pickle or skin preserver is made of one hundred 
and fifty pounds of salt and fifty pounds of sulphuric acid 
in two hundred gallons of water. When the skins are being 
placed in this liquor care should be taken to open each skin 
out and after the skins are all in they should be thoroughly 
stirred. The length of time required by this process is 
about six hours, although the skins may be left in longer 
without injury. 

The tanning process. 

The tanning may be done in a liquor composed of salt 
alum and gambier. A gambier liquor of about four degrees 



148 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

strength is prepared and to this are added ten pounds of salt 
and six pounds of alum for each one hundred gallons of 
liquor. This liquor should be strengthened each day until 
the skins are well tanned, which can readily be discovered 
by the tanner and depends upon the thickness of the skins. 
The process may also be used as a two-bath process by 
applying first the alum and salt and then placing the skins 
in the gambier liquor. This may be done by using three 
pounds of sulphate of alumina and eight pounds of salt for 
every one hundred pounds of skins and drumming the stock 
in this solution for thirty minutes, following this with the 
gambier tannage carried on for a few days until the skins 
are well tanned. The alumina and salt liquor does not 
work well upon acid-pickled skins, and hence it is not 
necessary to pickle the skins when this method is used. If 
pickled sheepskins are to be tanned, the pickle should be 
removed from them by a drench of sour bran and salt. 

Another dongola liquor for both goat and sheepskins 

Is made of thirty pounds of salt and forty pounds of alum, 
dissolved by boiling in about one hundred gallons of water. 
One hundred and eighty pounds of gambier are boiled in 
three hundred gallons of water and the resulting liquor is 
then mixed with the salt and alum solution. To this are 
added one hundred and fifty gallons more of water and to 
this is added one quart of sulphuric acid. These are the 
proportions for making five hundred gallons of good, strong 
dongola liquor. 

Palmetto extract has peculiar and distinctive qualities. 
It belongs to the same class of tannages as gambier, and 
hence is especially adapted to the manufacture of light and 
soft leathers. It tans very rapidly and produces tough 
leather, light in color and clear grain. It produces very 
good results when it is used in connection with the chrome 
process. Light skins may be tanned with Palmetto in three 
hours. 



DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 149 

A leather possessing some of the qualities of both chrome 
and vegetable-tanned stock 
Is produced by first tanning the skins (both sheep and goat) 
in chrome liquors and following this with a tannage of gam- 
bier or palmetto. When this is done, the skins are taken, 
after the final drenching or washing, and entered into a 
weak chrome liquor. To one hundred gallons of water, two 
gallons of concentrated tanning liquor are added and some 
salt, and the skins left in this solution until they become well 
struck with the tanning material. If a drum is used, about 
two gallons of chrome liquor are given for every one hundred 
pounds of skins and the skins drummed therein for two 
hours, then laid in a pile for twenty-four hours. In a 
paddle-vat, after the skins absorb the tanning material, more 
liquor is added until the bath contains about four gallons 
of tanning fluid to each one hundred gallons of water. 
After being tanned in the chrome liquor, the skins should 
be washed and then entered into a weak gambier bath and 
left therein until well tanned with the gambier. The gam- 
bier completes the tanning and fills the leather, giving it 
fullness and plumpness. The skins require to be kept in 
motion during the tanning, and as soon as the process is 
completed they should be removed from the liquor, pressed 
out and left lying in piles for some hours. 

Fat-liquoring and currying goatskins. 

A suitable drum should be heated with steam to a temper- 
ature of 100 deg. and one gallon of oil added for each one 
hundred and fifty pounds of leather, weighed after pressing 
and draining. The leather should be drummed in the oil 
until all the oil is taken up and absorbed by the leather, 
then removed from the drum and hung up and dried out. 
After drying, the leather should be again weighed and then 
wet down in a tub or vat, and placed in piles to become soft 
and moist. At this point the skins may be shaved if they 
require it, and then put into the drum with just enough 



150 PEACTICAL TANNING. 

warm water to soften all parts alike. All excess of water 
should be drained off and from fifteen to twenty gallons of 
fat-liquor for each one hundred pounds of dry-weight stock 
applied to the leather. The temperature of the drum and 
fat-liquor should not exceed one hundred and ten degrees. 
Some tannages carry more fat-liquor than others. A much 
smaller quantity than mentioned above will, in many in- 
stances, produce the necessary softness. The drumming of 
the leather in the fat-liquor should be continued until all 
the grease has been absorbed by the leather, then the stock 
should be hung up and dried out again. 

A very good fat-liquor for combination-tanned skins is prepared 

as follows : 
Twenty -five gallons of water are put into a barrel. To this 
are added twenty-five pounds of suitable potash soap, which 
is boiled until it is thoroughly dissolved. Then about fifty 
pounds of English sod oil and one and one-half gallons of 
neatsfoot oil are added to the soap solution and the mixture 
of soap and oil thoroughly stirred until all the ingredients 
are mixed well together. Enough water should be added 
to bring the volume of fat-liquor up to fifty gallons. An 
emulsion of castor oil and castor-oil soap may also be used ; 
the quantity of each about the same as in the above for- 
mula. 

Sheepskins. 
Very little fat-liquor is required by sheepskins, less than 
half the quantity given to goatskins being generally suffi- 
cient to make them soft and pliable. With the exception 
of the difference in fat-liquoring, sheepskins are treated the 
same as goatskins. 

After fat-liquoring, the leather is dried out, and the 
longer it is left in the dry condition the better will be the 
quality of the leather when it is finally finished. Before it 
can be dyed black or colored fancy shades the leather must 
be moistened back. This is best accomplished by the use of 



DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 151 

warm borax water. By the use of such water the leather 
is readily made soft and pliable, and much of the uncom- 
bined tannin removed. 

Clearing the grain of grease. 
When the grain of the leather is greasy, as it often is, the 
grease can be removed by drumming the skins in a weak 
warm bath of lactic acid for thirty minutes, after having 
been moistened with water. About one gallon of lactic acid 
is used in fifty gallons of water. This operation not only 
clears the grain of greasy matter, but also opens the pores 
of the leather so that the dye can the more readily pene- 
rate. When lactic acid is combined with bichromate of 
potash it makes an excellent mordant and striker for fancy 
colors, The proportions to be used are two pounds of the 
potash and one-half gallon of acid to a barrel of warm water. 
No mordant is really required on gambier or combination- 
tanned skins, but a striker is sometimes a help in develop- 
ing and fixing the color upon the skins. The solution of 
chrome and acid is good for this purpose, as it gives the 
color a fuller and more even appearance. The drumming 
in the weak solution of lactic acid also serves the useful 
purpose of removing all clouds and marks from the grain. 
For this purpose oxalic acid is also used ; three pounds of 
the acid in ten gallons of water being enough for two hun- 
dred pounds of skins. 

Coloring the flesh. 
When the grain of this class of leather is dyed black the 
flesh is generally colored yellow. This is done by moisten- 
ing the dry leather and allowing it to lie for twenty-four 
hours to become sufficiently soft. Then one-half pailful of 
sumac is scalded in a closed vessel for two hours. For one 
hundred and twenty average size kins (either sheep or goat,) 
the prepared sumac is diluted with four pails of water, and 
to this is added one gallon of Lactracine. 

The liquor should be warm, about one hundred degrees, 



152 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and the leather drummed in it for twenty-five minutes. 
The stock should then be thrown back upon the pins on 
either side of the drum and the color bath prepared. One 
pound of yellow S is dissolved in one-half barrel of water, 
and after the skins have been drummed in the sumac three 
or four pailfuls of the color are added for each one hundred 
pounds of dry weight stock. The leather should be 
drummed in this for ten minutes. At the end of this time 
it will be found to be colored through with the j^ellow and 
in suitable condition to receive the black upon the grain. 

Blacking the grain. 

The grain blacking may consist of five pounds of powdered 
or liquid logwood extract boiled thoroughly in one-half 
barrel of water. In another vessel are dissolved three 
pounds of sal soda in five gallons of water, and this solution 
is added to the logwood liquor, boiled again, and enough 
water run in to make a total of forty gallons. When this 
solution is used in this concentrated form it is only neces- 
sary to run the skins once through the blacking machine 
before the striker is applied. When the coloring is done 
on a table a small quantity of ammonia should be added 
to each pail of logwood dye. The dye is then brushed 
into the grain of the leather. Then the striker is applied, 
the skin struck out and another coat of dye applied, and 
thoroughly brushed in and the leather then washed off in 
warm water, struck out and a light coat of oil applied 
evenly over the grain. A striker is made of four and one- 
half pounds of copperas, one and one-half pounds of blue 
vitriol in half a barrel of water. Then the barrel is filled 
to a total of fifty gallons. When this is used upon a 
machine twelve pounds of copperas and four pounds of 
blue vitriol are used to a barrel of water. To the first 
formula are added one pound of nutgalls and one pound of 
Epsom salts to each six pounds of copperas and blue vitriol 
combined. 



DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 153 

Coloring the flesh blue. 
When a blue flesh is wanted, instead of dyeing the 
moistened skin in yellow liquor as described, they may be 
drummed in a solution of logwood and drummed until 
the color is well taken up and has evenly penetrated the 
leather. When the color is fully developed upon the grain 
the skins are spread upon the table and the striker applied 
to the grain side only. This procedure leaves a blue flesh 
and black grain. 

Clearing the grain for colors. 
The sumac which is used as a mordant for the yellow 
flesh color may also serve the purpose of a mordant for any 
shade that may be desired. There is always more or less 
uncombined tannin upon leather that has been tanned in 
any vegetable process, and this frequently causes spots and 
streaks upon the leather. To overcome this the skins after 
the drumming in the sumac liquor should be given two 
ounces of antimonine for each dozen skins and drummed 
fifteen minutes longer, then washed off and colored with the 
aniline dye. The use of the antimonine overcomes the 
uncombined tannin and also clears the grain, as well as acts 
as a fixing agent for the dye. 

Finishing the Leather. 
After the leather has been colored or blackened it should 
be washed off with warm water and given a thorough 
setting out with a glass slicker. A light coat of glycerine 
and water should be applied evenly over the grain, and this 
should be followed by a light coat of neatsfoot oil, after 
which the leather is again dried out. The final finishing 
processes consist of dampening, staking and drying, after 
which if the leather is to be given a dull finish it is ironed, 
and if it is to be glazed it is polished on a machine. The 
final oiling off which protects the finish from moisture may 
be a mixture of neatsfoot and olive oil, one-half of each, or 
olive oil foots may be used alone. 



154 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

THE COLORING AND FINISHING OF INDIA-TANNED SKINS. 

In the preparation of India-tanned goat and sheepskins 
for any process of coloring and finishing, it is of great 
advantage to thoroughly wash the skins. This is done to 
soften them, and to remove from them all loose particles or 
excess of tannin, particles of dirt and dust. Before the 
actual process of washing is begun the skins may be soft- 
ened in warm water, by being dipped into the same, and 
then left in piles for a number of hours to soften. They 
are then transferred to the drum and washed. The water 
should be at a temperature of ninety degrees ; and its 
efficacy is increased by the addition to it of some alkali 
such as borax or washing soda, in quantity about two 
pounds for one hundred gallons of water. In water thus 
prepared the skins are washed for twenty minutes, then the 
water is run off and a fresh supply run into the drum and 
the drumming and washing continued for another twenty 
minutes. 

Retanning with sumac. 

A great many of this class of skins are imperfectly tanned, 
of a dark color and very hard. In order to complete the 
tanning and to improve the quality of the leather by mak- 
ing it fuller, softer and more readily adapted for fancy 
colors, it is necessar} T to take from them part of the original 
tanning material and to replace it with some other tannage. 
Sumac is frequently used for the retanning. A good 
method to pursue is to wash the skins thoroughly as above 
directed in warm borax water for thirty minutes or longer, 
then to wash them off in clear warm water, and to pass 
them through a weak bath of sulphuric acid and water. 
The borax or soda used in washing darkens the color of the 
leather ; the acid treatment brightens up the color. After 
the acid treatment, the skins should be washed with an 
abundance of water and then retanned with sumac. 

The retanning with sumac is done preferably in a drum. 



DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 155 

The liquor should be warm, at a temperature of about one 
hundred degrees ; and from one to two pounds of sumac 
used for each dozen skins. The skins may be run in the 
sumac liquor for two or three hours, washed off in water to 
remove surplus sumac liquor, and set out on the table with 
a slicker, and may be either dyed at once or hung up and 
dried out before being colored. 

Alum, salt and gambier liquor. 

Instead of a retannage in sumac, very good leather may 
be made by applying to the skins an alum, salt and gambier 
liquor, thus producing leather that very closely resembles 
dongola leather. Palmetto extract may also be used as a 
retannage, and produces results similar to gambier. The 
leather is very much improved by the retanning. Other 
tannages may be used in place of those mentioned. Queb- 
racho makes very soft leather, and also works well com- 
bined with hemlock and other extracts. 

For black leather. 

For black leather the skins may be lightly washed in 
clear water, pressed and fat-liquored with a light emulsion 
of oil and soap, then hung up and dried out. Or they may 
be dried out after tanning and then moistened back, blue 
or yellow backed, fat-liquored and then grain blacked. A 
drumming in oil immediately after retanning and pressing, 
before the leather is dried out, one gallon of oil for every 
one hundred and fifty pounds of pressed leather, will keep 
the grain soft and prevent its cracking or becoming rough 
during the time it is drying out. Moistened back and 
ready for flesh coloring, the leather may be colored blue 
upon the flesh by the use of logwood and borax, purple 
aniline, or a solution of blue nigrosine. The last named 
article is used in the following manner : For each dozen 
skins two ounces of the nigrosine are dissolved in hot 
water and applied to the skins at a temperature of one 



156 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

hundred degrees. The leather is drummed in the color 
solution for twenty minutes, after which it is blacked on 
the grain, struck out, oiled lightly, and dried out. 

When logwood and borax are used 

The skins are drummed in a solution of the same until the 
color is well taken up and absorbed, then spread upon a 
table or run through a machine, or folded and dipped into 
a striker liquor in trays or boxes, and the grain by this pro- 
cedure is made black and the flesh remains blue or purple. 

For very light and fancy shades. 
When very light and fancy shades are wanted it is 
oftimes a great advantage to first bleach the leather as light 
a color as possible. This may be done by the methods de- 
scribed in the part of this book devoted to bleaching processes. 

When the gvain of the leather is greasy 

It may be cleared by milling the skins in a dilute solution 
of lactic acid, one gallon of the same mixed with fifty 
gallons of warm water, previous to coloring. The use of 
the acid solution opens up the pores of the grain, clears the 
grain of greasy matter, and thus aids in getting more uni- 
form coloring. After the acid treatment the leather should 
be washed in water before it is colored. 

Practical instructions for the getting of many of the 
shades of color at the present time in most favor are given 
in various parts of this book. Aniline and sulphamine 
dyes are most generally used. 

Turkey-red or alizarine oils. 

The finisher of India-tanned goatskins may be interested 
to know that good results are said to be obtained upon such 
skins, and in fact upon all classes of bark and vegetable 
tanned leather, from the use of the so-called Turkey-red or 
alizarine oils, used in place of emulsions of oil and soap to 
impart flexibility and fineness to the leather. The use of 



DONGOLA AND INDIA-TANNED GOAT AND SHEEPSKINS. 157 

the oils mentioned has been made the subject of a patent, a 
full description of which will be found in another part of 
this book. No reference is made there, however, to this 
particular class of leather. No doubt good results may be 
obtained by subjecting the skins after washing and retai- 
ning to a bath of the soluble oil, made up in solution about 
ten per cent, of the oil in warm water — that is, presumably 
ten gallons of the oil mixed into one hundred gallons of 
warm water. The skins are passed once or twice through 
such an oil bath, allowed to drip or drain, and are then 
slowly dried out, Very fine effects are claimed to be pro- 
duced by this method of lubricating the leather, whether 
the same is dyed black with logwood or colored fancy 
shades. 

Another process for finishing India goat and sheepskins. 

Another process, also patented, and fully described in 
another part of this book, is of interest to finishers of India 
goat and sheepskins, because by its use a superior quality 
of leather is said to be produced. Upon raw skins the pro- 
cess consists of treating them in a vat or drum to a bath of 
tanning material in the usual manner, gambier or any 
other vegetable tannage being used, and then applying to 
the tanned skins a solution of formic aldehyde. This may 
consist of three pounds of the commercial formic aldehyde, 
40 per cent, to each one hundred pounds of skins, dissolved 
in about fifteen gallons of warm water. The skins are sub- 
jected to the action of this solution until they are permeated 
through and through with the same and respond to the 
usual tests of good leather. Upon light skins this is said 
to consume three hours. The temperature of the liquor 
should be maintained at from 80 degrees to 120 degrees 
Fah. The use of the formic aldehyde solution fixes the 
tannage upon the skins, and after this has been accom- 
plished the leather may be washed and finished in the 
usual way. 



158 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Imperfectly tanned skins may be greatly improved 
By the following method of tanning : They are thoroughly 
washed, and when they require it they are retanned with 
any suitable tanning extract. They are then given a 
treatment with formic aldehyde in the same manner as de- 
scribed for raw skins. This thoroughly plumps and fills 
the leather. In case the skins are well tanned and full 
and plump to begin with, the retanning is not necessary. 
The solution of formic aldehyde may be applied directly 
to the moistened and washed skins in a drum. This treat- 
ment is said to securely fix the tanning material upon and 
in the leather fibres, and results in making a superior 
quality of plump and well-filled leather. Another ad- 
vantage afforded by this process is that it overcomes the 
obstacles hitherto encountered in the use of materials like 
divi-divi, which add to the leather substances extremely 
susceptible to fermentation, and which lead to loss of 
leather in damp weather. The use of formic aldehyde pre- 
vents this fermentation and the subsequent softening of the 
leather. It also prevents the moulding of the leather dur- 
ing the time it is drying out. 

The letters patent issued on this process cover the use of 
formic aldehyde in the making of all kinds of leather, 
heavy and light, and made by any process or combination 
of processes of tanning. 



CHAPTER X. 

PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 

In this chapter a number of very interesting tanning and 
tawing processes are described. The intelligent tanner, 
eager to broaden his knowledge of tanning, can do no 
better than to study carefully these descriptions. A great 
deal of valuable information can be acquired by such study. 

The folloiving process is a patented " Method of Tawing," 
designed for the final finishing of East India kips, goat- 
skins, basils and white leather, and the improvement of 
hides and skins imperfectly tanned by cutch, tena japonica, 
divi-divi, etc., so that the required plumpness, weight, 
•color, softness, and moisture-resisting qualities are obtained. 

The process consists, essentially, of two steps, the first of 
which is concerned with the introduction of materials 
which will render the skin sensitive to the fixing or tanning 
agent employed in the second step. This results in a full- 
ing or plumping effect, clearing the grain, and at the same 
time feeding the leather. The first step has the same pur- 
pose as that commonly attained by the employment of old 
and sour liquors and weak solutions of extracts which pre- 
cede the actual process of tanning. 

The second step consists of treating the hide or skin to 
"the action of formic aldehyde, a material possessing the 
property of fixing the connective tissue and fibers in the 
swelled and plumped, tawed or partially tanned condition, 
produced by the first treatment, and at the same time of 
fixing in, upon or between the fibers materials previously 
supplied by the first step of the process to contribute 
special qualities, such as body, color, suppleness, weight, 
etc., essential to a solid and well nourished leather. 

(159) 



160 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The use of the formic aldehyde in the second step is not 
a mere aggregation of elements or materials, as it is in its 
nature and effects entirely different from the materials 
employed in the first step, and could not be substituted for 
them to produce the effects of the first step, while it pos- 
sesses distinctive and positive characters by which it acts 
upon both the skin and the materials with which it has 
been impregnated by the first step in a manner peculiar to 
itself. The formic aldehyde is used in the second part of 
this process strictly as a tanning agent to render the skin 
non-putrescible and insoluble. 

Advantage is taken of the property possessed by various 
tanning and tawing agents such as alum, salt, argol, eggs, 
flour, vegetable extracts, gambier, cutch, and the artificial 
and natural tannins used in making leather, many of 
which have none or only feeble tanning properties — of caus- 
ing a curling up or separation of the fibres, and the deposi- 
tion therein and upon of materials which prevent them 
from becoming agglutinated, thereby allowing the inter- 
lacing fibres to move readily upon each other, and which 
at the same time add material to the skin which is of 
advantage in respect to weight, body, color, etc., whereby a 
plump, soft, pliable, tough and elastic leather may be pro- 
duced. 

Leather is of so many varied qualities and varieties that 
it is impossible to specify any one of the agents, such as 
alum, eggs, flour, extracts, gambier, tannins, etc., as being 
capable of meeting all requirements which will produce the 
effect or effects desired. 

The following particular case will serve to illustrate the 
steps involved. Sheepskins, goatskins or hides, having 
been previously prepared for treatment by softening, un- 
hairing and other necessary steps, usually referred to as 
"beam-house treatment" are placed in a drum or reel, in 
which they may be agitated by the revolving of the drum, 
or the action of the paddles, or by any other suitable means. 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 161 

In the drum, for instance, is placed a solution of gambier 
extract sufficiently diluted to present the extract to the 
entire mass of skins, containing approximately four pounds 
of gambier to each one hundred pounds of wet hides or 
skins, the exact quantity of gambier being based upon the 
weight of the skins or hides to be treated, also upon their 
acidity or alkalinity, according to the well-known gambier 
process. The hides or skins are then drummed in the 
gambier bath until they are permeated through and 
through by the solution. When the gambier has struck 
through or thoroughly permeated the skins, which may be 
ascertained by cutting into the thickest skin and examining 
the exposed interior, the skins are cleansed in clear water ; 
but this washing may be dispensed with and the second 
step proceeded with at once. 

The second step consists in subjecting the skins to the 
action of formic aldehyde, preferably in solution, although 
it may be employed in the state of gas, either in the same 
drum or vat in which they were given the first treatment, 
or another drum or vat may be used. 

The amount of the solution employed varies somewhat, 
but is based upon the weight of the skins to be treated, and 
it has been found in practice that three pounds of commer- 
cial forty per cent, formic aldehyde solution to each one 
hundred pounds of wet hides or skins is sufficient for ordi- 
nary sheep or goatskins. The amount of water with which 
the formic aldehyde is diluted is based upon the bulk of the 
skins, being just sufficient to keep them well wetted and to 
present the formic aldehyde to the entire mass of skins, but 
not so much as to prevent the pounding action of the skins 
when revolving in the drum. 

The skins are subjected to the action of the formic alde- 
hyde until permeated through and through and until they 
respond to the usual tests of good leather. In this partic- 
ular case the time required is three hours, depending to a 
very considerable extent, as in the treatment by the first 
11 



162 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

step of the process, upon the number of skins in the drum 
and the rate and mode of agitation to which they have 
been subjected. 

It is advisable to maintain the bath in the second step at 
a temperature of not less than 80° Fah. and not above 
120° Fah. in order to secure the greatest efficiency from the 
formic aldehyde. After the skins are found to have been 
thoroughly fixed by the formic aldehyde, they are washed 
and are then ready for the usual treatment employed in 
finishing. In case the formic aldehyde is employed in the 
state of a gas, the following method is advisable : The 
skins, having been brought to the desired state by the first 
step, as has been described, an amount of commercial formic 
aldehyde solution, representing three pounds to each one 
hundred pounds of wet hides or skins to be treated, is 
placed in a suitable generator, and the gas generated is 
allowed to pass, by suitable connections, into the chamber 
containing the skins. The temperature of this chamber is 
preferably maintained at from 110° to 120° Fah., and the 
atmosphere of the chamber should also be kept moist, both 
of which conditions are readily secured by the admission 
from time to time of a small quantity of aqueous vapor by 
means of a suitable steam connection. The chamber em- 
ployed should be a closed one, and no larger than neces- 
sary to allow the skins to be fully exposed to the action of 
the gas. 

If desired, the gas may be admitted to the drum in 
which the preliminary treatment took place or into a simi- 
lar drum, and the skins agitated therein, or the skins may 
be stretched on suitable frames and enclosed within a sta- 
tionary chamber, in either case being exposed to the action 
of the gas until they respond to the usual tests for good 
leather, say for a period of six hours, the time depending, 
however, on the thickness and character of the skins under 
treatment. 

The market supplies certain tanned or imperfectly tanned 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 163 

skins and hides, which have been subjected to the action of 
salt, alum, flour, eggs, vegetable extracts, gambier, cutch, 
tannins or other materials, and which do not constitute 
high-grade leather, but which may be greatly improved. 
The effects produced on these skins are analogous to those 
produced by the first step of the process, and it is advan- 
tageous to take such skins, and after softening them in 
water to proceed to treat them as described in the example 
cited for treating raw skins, whereby the results of the first 
step are secured with less time and material than is required 
in the treatment of raw hides or skins. In certain cases 
where the tawed or imperfectly tanned skins or hides have 
the plumpness, color, weight, etc., desired, and which would 
be in other instances secured by means of the first step of 
this process, the second step may be at once proceeded with, 
which consists essentially in the fixation of the natural or 
added constituents of the skins. 

It has been found by a large number of practical tests that 
the action of the natural tannins as introduced into the skin 
by the first step of this process may be greatly hastened and 
augmented by the employment of formic aldehyde in con- 
junction therewith, as accomplished in the second step. 
Thus with the pyrogallol tannins, a considerable portion of 
which possess little or no tanning power, a compound is 
formed whereby all the tannin is rendered available, and 
consequently a greater action secured from a given amount 
of extract, a matter of importance in point of economy. 
Again it has been found that by means of formic aldehyde 
used in conjunction with, but subsequent to the use of those 
natural tannins containing " reds," as introduced into the 
hides by the first step of this process, these substances, which 
in many instances are insoluble and not directly available 
for tanning, can be fixed in the leather ; and again with 
other tannins the deposit of " whites " or " bloom " is pre- 
vented. The peculiar action of formic aldehyde upon the 
fibres of the skin results in filling the skins — plumping 



164 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

them, thereby effecting what is commonly known as feed- 
ing the leather. 

A special advantage afforded by this process is that it 
overcomes the obstacles hitherto encountered in the use of 
material like divi-divi, which add to the leather substances 
extremely susceptible to fermentation and which lead to 
loss of leather in damp weather. The superior bactericidal 
and anti-fermentative properties of formic aldehyde prevent 
this fermentation and the subsequent softening of the 
leather. It also prevents molding during the drying of the 
finished leather. 

Formic aldehyde has the property of fixing the collogen 
and other gelatinous constituents of the skin in the condi- 
tion in which they are when subjected to its action ; and it 
has been found to be highly advantageous in using formic 
aldehyde in the manufacture of leather to prepare the hides 
or skins by some preliminary treatment of tawing or tan- 
ning. The skins may be alum, oil, chamois, chrome or 
vegetable tanned in the first part of the process, and then 
taken ready prepared and submitted to the fixing action of 
formic aldehyde. 

Patented by Messrs. Dolley & Crank, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Sulpho- Compounds or Their Mixture with Fats and Oils. 

In tanning leather of the various kinds and by the vari- 
ous processes the use of oil plays an important part, and the 
same has been applied in various ways, though principally 
as an emulsion with alkalies or their carbonates, or as an 
emulsion containing a free fatty acid. It has been found 
by Armand Miiller, of New York City, that the whole tan- 
ning process may be greatly improved, shortened and sim- 
plified by the use of sulpho-compounds, or mixtures of the 
sulpho-compounds of the various fats and oils with fats or 
oils or free fatty acids — that is, by the use of the so-called 
" Turkey-red oils " or " alizarine oils." These oils are used 
in this process of tanning in place of fats or oils, or emul- 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 165 

sions of oils or fats, whether in bark-tanning, alum-tanning 
or tawing, oil-tanning or chamoising, chrome-tanning, or 
any other in which oil or its equivalent is used. 

The materials present ready means of effecting the proper 
absorption of oils and fats, in the shortest possible time, in 
the most rational manner and with a considerable saving 
of material. This refers as well to the manufacture of com- 
mon tanned leather — that is, to ordinary bark-tanning, as 
to tawing and chamoising. Furthermore, the great advan- 
tages are presented that combinations may be effected that 
insure the tanning materials being more firmly fixed upon 
the fibre, resulting in much tougher leather. The benefit 
derived from the use of these oils is due to the fact that they 
are soluble in water, contain large quantities of undecom- 
posed or unchanged oil, or free fats, or fatty acids, and pre- 
sent these in a manner and condition to permeate the skins 
with great ease and uniformity, thereby also effecting great 
saving in material and labor. 

The oils or sulpholeates are to be produced in the well- 
known way, by the gradual action of twenty-five to fifty 
per cent, sulphuric acid upon triglycerides, oil-seeds, etc., as 
well as upon semi-liquid and fixed fats, with neutralization 
of the resulting acid sulpho-mixture by means of potassium 
or sodium hydrate, or ammonia. 

A few examples of the methods of using the sulpholeates 
in tanning leather are given. First proceeding, upon hides 
to be bark tanned. The well cleaned and properly swelled 
hides are placed in a neutral, five to seven per cent, sulph- 
oleate solution. After the expiration of a few hours they 
are to be taken out, allowed to drip and to dry in the air or 
in a damp heated chamber, whereupon after complete dry- 
ing they are washed, and the operation is repeated to com- 
pletion. The remaining oil preparation can always be 
employed anew, without particular addition thereto. The 
hide thus prepared and nearly tanned is next placed in the 
tan vat in the usual manner, or may be subjected to any 
other process, as to a process of quick tanning. 



166 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The hide with the usual quantity of tan stuff absorbed is 
tanned in half the time, is much better in quality and 
never brittle. The leather is now treated as usual, and 
fatted or oiled, though again in place of oil, fat or degras a 
six (greater or less) per cent, sulpholeate solution may be 
employed, and finally the hide is dried and washed. The 
washing, however, may be omitted. Second proceeding : 
The raw hides are softened, cleaned, swelled and tanned in 
the usual manner, and then instead of being smeared or 
stuffed with fats, oils or degras they are passed through a 
seven to ten per cent, solution of the oils in lukewarm 
water, whereupon they are allowed to dip and are then 
slowly dried. The leather is then at once bark-tanned and 
may be colored with logwood with much finer effect than 
ordinary leather. 

Alum-tawing with Turkey-red Oils. 

The skins tanned by the usual process of tawing have 
the disadvantage that by water a part of the alum clay or 
argillaceous earth is withdrawn from them, whereby their 
strength is much reduced. This evil can best be overcome 
by the application of the sulpholeates, either before or after 
the actual tanning with alum and salt. The leather 
acquires by this treatment increased solidity, coupled with 
flexibility and softness and a finer appearance. The sulph- 
oleate solutions are admirably adapted to replace the egg- 
yolk used in the manufacture of kid gloves. To the oil 
solution, according to the French method, some phenol 
(carbolic acid) is added, although many other suitable 
soluble substance, such as salicylic acid, tar oil, etc., may 
be employed to counteract the too strong heating of the 
stuffed skins when laid or spread or stored to cure. The 
sulpholeates may also be used in the chrome process, result- 
ing in increased solidity and toughness, together with 
softness and pliability, than results from the application 
of soap solutions. 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 167 

Oil-tanning or Chamoising. 

The skins prepared in the usual manner are passed 
through a twenty-five per cent. Turkey-red oil solution, 
whereupon they are allowed to dry, are laid in a moderately 
warm room in a heap and are carefully covered up. They 
are then hung up in the air and allowed to dry slowly, 
when they are again oiled in the same solution after they 
have been laid in lukewarm water to rid them of any ad- 
hering unchanged alkaline sulpholeate, are filled, again 
laid in a heap, again dried, and then treated with a weak 
solution of alkali. The dried leather is then stretched and 
rubbed to give it flexibility, which has been somewhat lost 
in drying, and is then completely oil-tanned. 

The results may be variously modified, by greater or less 
concentration of the Turkey-red oil solution, by higher 
temperature in drying, as also by more frequent passes or 
dippings. In all cases the absorption of the fats and fatty 
acids takes place sooner, more evenly and with greater cer- 
tainty than in the ordinary procedure ; and there is no loss 
of fat, because the remainder of the solution may be applied 
with equal effect upon a fresh lot of skins. Combinations 
with the salts of alumina may also be employed here. 

The method preferred is as follows : Steep the prepared 
skins in a solution containing preferably fifteen per cent, 
of the soluble oil ; dry, and if necessary repeat the opera- 
tion, and then proceed in the usual manner of tanning, 
according to the kind of leather wanted. 

This process of alum tawing 
Has for its object the facilitating of the process of tanning 
by reducing the time consumed, and to leave a salt in the 
skins that will form a basic mordant for the coloring 
matter, and at the same time, when the skins are finished, 
they will be soft, flexible and waterproof. 

The skins are treated in the usual manner to remove the 
hair or wool, limed, bated and washed, and thus made soft 



168 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and flexible. A solution is then made of from twelve to 
fifteen gallons of water, to which have been added nine 
pounds of alum, two pounds of salt, and thirty pounds of 
wheat-flour, the whole being thoroughly agitated while 
subjected to a heat of about 82.4° to 86° Fah. for fifteen 
minutes. To the solution are added about twelve pounds 
of the yolks of eggs, and the solution is agitated for another 
five minutes. 

The mixture is then placed in a suitable drum capable of 
holding about one hundred pounds of skins, and the whole 
allowed to revolve for from thirty to sixty minutes, or until 
the skins have absorbed the contents of the drum. This 
completes the first step in the process, and is what is com- 
monly known as " tawing." The skins are next removed 
from the drum, and hung up and dried out. Next a solu- 
tion of sal soda is made, composed of one pound of soda to a 
gallon of water. In a sal soda solution made up in these 
proportions, and in quantity sufficient to treat the lot of 
skins, the skins are placed until they are thoroughly soft 
and flexible, and have assumed a neutral condition. They 
are then washed in lukewarm water to remove all foreign 
matter and traces of soda, and are then placed in the follow- 
ing bath : This bath is made by adding sulphuric acid to 
water until the mixture assumes a density of one to two 
degrees Baume. To this solution is added as much of 
hydrated sesquioxide of chromium or chromic hydrate as 
will dissolve, and no harm is done when there is a surplus 
of chromic hydrate remaining in the vessel. Should the 
solution not be neutral, it may be made so by the addition 
of sal soda until this result has been accomplished. The 
skins having been neutralized as above mentioned, and 
afterwards washed, are placed in the chromium solution, 
and the whole agitated for from five to fifteen hours. They 
are then removed, washed, colored and finished in the usual 
way. 

The mordant in the skins when combined with the sub- 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 169 

sequent coloring matter permeates the entire fibre of the 
skins, and greatly adds to the lasting quality of the color 
and durability of the leather. This process has been 
patented by Messrs. A. Warter and H. C. Koegel, of 
Newark, N. J., who claim as new a tawed or alum tanned 
skin subsequently impregnated with the sesquioxide of 
chromium. 

The use of formic aldehyd as a tanning agent 

Is not generally known among tanners ; and yet leather 
is made with this material, the use of which is not compli- 
cated or uncertain, but on the contrary very simple and 
safe. This process of tanning with formic aldehyd relates 
particularly to goat-skins, but there is no reason why the 
process cannot be applied with equally good results to other 
classes of skins, and even to hides. The skins are subjected 
to the treatment with formic aldehyd in such a manner that 
they become thoroughly permeated with it, the result being 
that the gelatinous constituents of the skins are rendered 
insoluble and otherwise chemically changed from raw skin 
into leather. 

The skins are prepared for the process of tanning in the 
usual manner of soaking, liming and bating or drenching, 
and are then subjected to the action of formic aldehyd in 
its natural gaseous condition or in aqueous solution ; the 
strength of the solution and the degree of concentration of 
the gas and the length of time consumed by the treatment 
varying according to the character and thickness of the 
skin. 

When the formic aldehyd is used in the form of a solu- 
tion, the skins are treated at the beginning of the process to 
a three per cent, solution of the material, and in this solu- 
tion the skins are treated in a closed drum for about ten 
minutes. At intervals of ten minutes formic aldehyd is 
added to the skins in the drum until at the end of one hour 
enough of the material should have been added to have 



170 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

brought up the strength to ten per cent. In this way the 
skins are treated to a liquor of gradually increasing 
strength. For ordinary goat-skins a period of one hour is 
sufficient to tan them thoroughly. During the process the 
skins can be subjected to the ordinary tests made by tan- 
ners, and should always be left in the solution and 
drummed until the thickest portions indicate thorough 
conversion into leather, by losing their raw feel and ap- 
pearance and becoming colorless and leathery to the touch. 

When the formic aldehyd is used in a gaseous state the 
skins are suspended in a chamber that can be hermetically 
sealed, and that can be connected with any suitable form 
of apparatus for generating formic aldehyd gas. The 
skins being suspended within this chamber, and the door 
closed, the gas is introduced, and the skins subjected to the 
action of the gases or mixed gas and vapor, until the 
ordinary tests indicate that the skins have been thoroughly 
permeated with the tanning agent. As many ordinary 
prepared goatskins as can be suspended in a tight chamber 
having a capacity of about two thousand cubic feet may be 
thoroughly tanned within a period of from six to ten hours, 
by the action of the quantity of formic aldehyd gas gen- 
erated by the ordinary process from one pint of wood alco- 
hol. The formic aldehyd may also be employed in the 
gaseous state by the vaporization of an aqueous or alcoholic 
solution, and when used in this way it is deemed desirable 
to add a proportion of chloride of calcium to the formic 
aldehyd solution. For this purpose two hundred parts of 
chlorid of calcium for each fifteen hundred parts of formic 
aldehyde solution suffice. In case the gas is employed in 
connection with aqueous vapor, live or heated steam is not 
employed, but rather a cool vapor or moisture charged 
atmosphere. 

It sometimes occurs that a pack of skins by reason of 
their unusual thickness, or from any other cause may re- 
quire a strength of the tanning solution differing somewhat 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 171 

from that employed in tanning ordinary skins, and it is at 
once evident that in such case the tanner may by selecting 
a fair specimen of the lot and using the same as a test, more 
readily determine the strength of the solution. Leather 
that is made by this process of tanning is distinguished 
from all other leathers by any of the following tests : By 
coming from the tanning bath free from any discoloration 
caused by the tanning agent ; by its freedom from mineral 
deposits such as are deposited in the skins in both vegetable 
and mineral tannages, and by the readily discernible pres- 
ence of the formic aldehyd in the skin. 

The following described process is a French one, 
And by its use it is claimed that the cohesion of the fibres 
is destroyed and putrefaction is prevented without the help 
or the formation of any crystallizable salt, which would 
have the effect of reducing the strength of the skins. The 
result is that skins remain permanently flexible and lose 
none of the strength they possessed before being treated, 
nor has water, whether hot or cold, any action whatever on 
a skin thus prepared. This method makes the skins as 
firm, as supple and as elastic as may be required. It also 
leaves the skins white, and when dyed, the colors become 
rapidly and completely fixed. 

After the usual processes of preparing the skins are fin- 
ished, the skins are immersed in a bath containing one part 
of sulphite of aluminium to ten parts of water, and they are 
allowed to remain in this bath from twenty to forty min- 
utes, according to their nature and thickness. Sulphite of 
aluminium possesses, among other essential properties, those 
of being both unstable and reducing. On that account the 
organic compounds contained in the skins are sufficient to 
determine the decomposition of the said sulphite, thus caus- 
ing sulphurous acid gas to be given off in the bath or tank. 
In reducing the organic compounds contained in the fibres, 
the said sulphurous acid gas becomes transformed, through 



172 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the presence of the water, into sulphuric acid, which com- 
bines with the alumina resulting from the decomposition of 
the sulphite to constitute sulphate of aluminium. The 
action of the bath is rendered more vigorous by a small 
addition of hydrochloric acid, intended to facilitate the lib- 
eration of the sulphurous acid. 

When removed from the bath the skins are allowed to 
drain for a few minutes. They are then immersed in an 
ammoniacal bath. The ammonia being a stronger base 
than alumina, separates the latter from the sulphate and 
chloride, which thoroughly impregnate the skins. The 
skins thus receive the alumina in the form of gelatinous 
precipitate of hydrated alumina. The skins are taken out 
after a few moments and left to drain. The proportions of 
the second bath necessary to produce the precipitation are, 
twelve parts of water to one part of ammonia solution. Upon 
the completion of these operations, in order to dress the 
skins, they are caused to absorb within fulling mills a firm 
paste, constituted of eight parts of wheat flour to one part of 
glycerine, to which latter is added a small quantity of the 
precipitate of the ammonia bath in order to obtain a suffici- 
ently firm paste. The paste should be completely absorbed 
before the skins are removed from the fulling mills and 
before they are dried out, if they are intended to be used in 
a white condition or before drying them, which operation 
may be undertaken at once without further preparation. 
The skins are then finished in the usual manner. 

The inventor of this process claims for it that it makes leather 
that is waterproof, elastic, pliable, heat and frost proof , 

That is to say not readily affected by heat or cold. It 
consists simply of a two-bath process of chrome tanning, in 
which neatsfoot oil is used both in the first and second bath. 
The first bath to which the prepared hides or skins are 
subjected is a solution of bichromate of potash — five pounds 
for every hundred pounds of hides or skins, and two and 



PATENTED PKOCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 173 

one-half pounds of sulphuric acid. To these ingredients 
mixed with the quantity of water required, is added five 
per cent, of the weight of the hides or skins of neatsfoot 
oil. In the solution prepared of the above ingredients the 
hides or skins are treated in a drum until the liquor has 
entirely penetrated them. 

The second part of the process is a bath of hyposulphite 
of soda mixed with sulphuric acid and neatsfoot oil in the 
proportions of ten pounds of the hyposulphite of soda, 
seven and one-half pounds of sulphuric acid and five 
pounds of neatsfoot oil for one-hundred pounds of hides or 
skins. Upon coming from the first bath the skins are sub- 
jected to the second bath either in a dram or a paddle-vat, 
after which they are washed and dried out. The hides or 
skins may also be treated with the liquor of hyposulphite 
of soda, acid and oil as a first bath, and then afterwards to 
the solution of chromic acid and oil. 

In using the named articles in connection with neatsfoot 
oil, it causes the chromic acid to be reduced to chromic 
oxide, as the oil becomes oxidized by mixture with the 
chrome compounds, and forms in this way a new insoluble 
compound that penetrates the fibres of the skins to com- 
plete the tanning or tawing effect, and makes the leather 
more pliant and waterproof. 

Patented by Chas. Knees, Oshawa, Canada. 

Neiv Method for Belt, Shoe and Leather Laces. 

The description that follows relates to a new method 
of making leather, especially adapted for belt, shoe and 
leather laces, by the chrome process. This is a patented 
process, the patentee being one James C. McConnell. 

The hides are treated in the preparatory process of lim- 
ing, unhairing and bating the same as any hides are treated 
for a chrome process. The first step in the making of the 
leather consists of drumming the hides in a drum, or pad- 
dling them in a vat in a solution of alum and salt. This 



174 ■ PRACTICAL TANNING. 

is made up of two pounds of alum and four pounds of salt 
for each one hundred pounds of hides. In this liquor the 
hides are treated until they have absorbed the same. The 
hides carry sufficient water as they come from the washing 
process to absorb the alum and salt. After this treatment 
the hides are allowed to press, drain and partly dry, when 
they are split and shaved. The tanning is then completed 
by drumming the hides, or paddling them in a vat, in a 
chrome or mineral tannage of any kind, after which they 
are washed and again partly dried to get them in proper 
condition for fat-liquoring or stuffing. 

The stuffing mixture is prepared as follows : Four ounces 
of common potash, or other alkali, are boiled in one-half 
gallon of water until dissolved. Then two pounds of any 
good degras and four pounds of tallow are added, and the 
whole brought to a quick boil. The compound requires to 
be thoroughly cooked. Then one-quarter gallon of neats- 
foot oil is added, and the compound stirred until the tem- 
perature reaches a little below boiling-point. Then the 
compound while hot is applied to the leather, the quantity 
named being used for one hundred pounds of leather, at a 
temperature of 150 degrees F. 

After the leather is stuffed it is set out and oiled off on 
the grain side with a light coat of neatsfoot oil, then 
stretched in frames until thoroughly dry. After this it is 
moistened and staked and softened, and the staking, work- 
ing and drying are continued until the leather is soft and 
dry. Then it is coated on both sides with a light coat 
of paste made with tallow, starch-flour, soap and water 
boiled together. Then the leather is dried out again and 
finished in the usual way. As is the case when alum and 
salt are used before the chrome process is applied, the object 
of using them is to pickle the hides so that they will not 
draw or pucker when put into the tan liquor, and to pre- 
serve them so that they can be kept some time before they 
are chrome-tanned. By first tawing the hides in alum and 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 175 

salt, and splitting them before they are chrome-tanned, a 
saving of chrome materials is effected. An interesting 
feature of this process is in the fact that the salt and alum 
treatment permits the leather to be stuffed at a high tem- 
perature, thus insuring a more thorough penetration of the 
stuffing greases than is usually the case, and the leather is 
made very elastic and durable, and peculiarly suitable for 
lace leather. 

Lace leather, made by a chrome process in this way, does 
not harden, but remains strong, soft and pliable until it is 
worn out. The stuffing is done in a warm drum, and all 
the ingredients must be completely incorporated with each 
other and thoroughly taken up by the leather before it is 
dried out. 

Process with bark liquor, saltpetre, alum and glauber salt. 

Among the various processes that have been brought 
forward for the purpose of tanning leather with bark 
liquors in less time than is commonly consumed, is one by 
which the bark liquor is supplemented by a solution of 
saltpetre, alum and glauber salt. 

It is well known that by the older methods of tanning 
the hides, after the hair has been removed, are placed in 
weak liquor, and for a period of from three to four months, 
are left in the same, with more or less frequent handling 
and changing of the liquor, until finally they are tanned. 
Much care has to be exercised lest too strong liquor be 
used, in which case the tannic acid of the same will act 
upon the grain of the hides, rendering it crisp and brittle, 
materially impairing the value of the leather. By combin- 
ing the above-named chemicals with bark liquor, they 
unite with the liquor in such a way as to render the action 
on the gelatine and fiber of the hide harmless, and at the 
same time admits of the hides remaining in the vats in 
which they are first placed until they are completely 
tanned. 



176 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The tanning liquor is prepared in sufficient quantity, 
either from oak or hemlock bark, of 18° or 20° strength of 
the barkometer to cover fifty skins, this being the usual 
number placed in each vat. To the liquor is added a 
solution made as follows : Four pounds of saltpetre, four 
pounds of alum, and five pounds of glauber salt, dissolved 
in hot water. After this solution has been added to the 
bark liquor, the skins are placed in the mixture, the skins 
and the mixture being agitated once an hour for the first 
twelve hours. After this has been done, the skins may 
remain in the liquor six days, unless they are very heavy, 
in which case they may remain eight days in the vat, at the 
end of which time they will be found to be thoroughly 
tanned. They are then to be washed, dried and finished 
in the usual manner, unless they are to be sold in the 
rough or made into sole leather, in which case they should 
be rinsed in a vat containing 'sufficient water, to which are 
added three pounds of cream of tartar. This does not en- 
hance the value of the leather more than to give it a nice, 
clean, bright appearance. 

Patented by J. W. Hitt, Lisle, N. Y. 

This process of tanning consists of the use of an antiseptic 
tanning composition 

For leather intended to be used as a lining for horse collars, 
all kinds of harness pads, and similar appliances. To make 
such hides more appropriate for this particular purpose, 
the hair is not removed from the hides, because resting next 
to the skin of the animal they form a soft bolster, are cool 
because this hairy layer permits free evaporation and 
escape of the perspiration, keep as a consequence the 
harness dry, and protect it against mold aud rot, and 
finally, by their softness prevent the growth of sores on the 
animal. 

To tan and prepare hides for such linings, so as to keep 
them from rotting from constant contact with the moist 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 177 

perspiration ; to make them soft and tough ; to preserve the 
roots of the hair in a manner to prevent the same from 
falling out ; to render them harmless and salubrious by 
proper medical and antiseptic treatment, and to keep moths 
and other insects out, has been fraught with many diffi- 
culties. 

In the first place all fatty substances which might tend 
to cause fermentation and rot must be eradicated ; secondly, 
to make and keep the leather pliable and to prevent the 
perspiration of the animal from entering and saturating the 
same, setting up fermentation and causing rot, its pores 
must be filled with an unctuous and preserving substance ; 
thirdly, the pores of the hide should be contracted to 
toughen the leather, and also to guard against all possi- 
bilities of any of the hair falling out, and, lastly, the odor 
caused and remaining from the tanning piocess should be 
eliminated. The means selected to comply with all these 
conditions must be of such a character as to be not only 
harmless to the skin of the animal, but in addition should 
have such medical and antiseptic qualities as to prevent 
sores, to heal them and prevent their spread in cases where 
they exist, and finally they should harden the skin in 
places where the pads are in constant contact and bear 
on it. 

To fulfill the first condition, corrosive sublimate is the 
most suitable means. It acts as an antiseptic and germicide 
by killing or neutralizing all such matter which might 
cause decomposition. For the second requirement phenol 
(carbolic acid) or the preparations derived therefrom are 
used. It or they fill the pores of the hide, and by unctuous 
properties keep the same soft and pliable. The third condi- 
tion is best complied with by the application of salicylic 
acid, which contracts the pores of the hide and toughens it. 
The fourth condition is satisfied by menthol, which by its 
penetrating odor eliminates the scent of the tanning process 
adhering to the hide. 
12 



178 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Iii cases where pads lined with leather so prepared come 
in contact with sores on the animal, the corrosive sublimate, 
in combination with the phenol contained in the pores of 
the lining, will stop the spread of the sores, and by virtue 
of the antiseptical and germicidal properties of these drugs 
will heal the sores and prevent their recurrence. In addi- 
tion to the named effects on the skin of the animal, these 
drugs in combination with the salicylic acid will also 
harden the same. Hides so saturated are fully germ and 
moth proof, because the drugs used in their treatment are 
inimical to insect life. 

The chemicals named may be applied by adding them to 
the ordinary tanning liquor prepared from sumac or bark 
in which the hides are immersed, and in which case the 
procedure is the same as the usual tanning process, or they 
may be applied as a dressing by means of a brush after the 
ordinary tanning process has been gone through with. The 
temperature of the composition is preferably from 60° to 70° 
Fah. The menthol in a solution of five parts dissolved in 
ninety-five parts of alcohol is best applied separately and 
lastly in the form of a spray. As regards the proportion of 
said chemicals, one part of corrosive sublimate, eight parts 
of phenol, and one part of salicylic acid, all dissolved in 
sixty parts of water, produce the best results. The quantity 
of water may be varied, however, in order to produce a 
more or less concentrated solution, by the strength of which 
the duration of the tanning process may be lengthened or 
shortened. Equivalents may of course be substituted where 
they produce the same results. For instance, boracic acid 
may be used in place of the corrosive sublimate, and also 
instead of the salicylic acid. For the phenol any of its 
species may be used. 

Hides or leather so prepared preserve remarkably well, 
and are rendered exceedingly tough and tenacious without 
losing their pliability and softness. 

The preparation, if mixed with the ordinary tanning 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 179 

liquor, will hasten the whole tanning process and keep said 
liquor from getting sour or spoiled. 

Patented by Julius Engelke, Cincinnati, O. 

The following process of rapid tanning 

Is a patented one, the patentee being one John Hoelck, of 
Chicago. The object of this process is to accelerate the 
operation and to reduce the cost of manufacture, and at the 
same time produce a leather the quality of which is superior 
to any tanned leather on the market. The usual results of 
any attempts to hasten the process of tanning are that the 
quality of the leather is injured more or less. The hides to 
be treated by this process are handled as follows : They are 
soaked in clean fresh water over night. Then they are 
fleshed and washed in the wash-wheel in order to remove 
from them the salt and dirt, and are then again put into 
clean water, and left therein over night. The hides are 
then tied together head to butt, though when intended for 
belting, the heads and bellies may be cut off and prepared 
for sole leather, and are then put into a lime vat and by 
means of chains and reels handled from one lime vat to 
another for about eight hours. The hides are then trans- 
ferred to warm water vats and treated for six or eight hours 
with water at a temperature of about eighty degrees, and 
are passed from one vat to another. 

The hides are then allowed to remain in warm water of 
about eighty degrees for a time, say one night, after which 
the hair can be readily removed. After the unhairing, 
which may be done in the usual manner, the hides are 
washed in clean water and freed from lime, by the working 
incident to unhairing or short-hairing. Being thus freed 
of lime by working on the grain side and short hairing, they 
are worked on the flesh side, fleshed or shaved. When 
cleaned and shaved, the hides are put into clean cold water 
for a time, say over night, to swell them, although this is 
not absolutely necessary, and then into a coloring wheel, 



180 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

with a liquor of about twenty per cent, cutch or catechu. 
Enough of this liquor is required to cover the hides and to 
produce an even color. To this liquor are next added about 
thirty pounds of common salt for every thirty hides under 
treatment, and the wheel kept in operation for about four 
hours to insure the hides being evenly colored. To the 
liquor are then mixed three pounds of alum, one pound of 
salt, one twenty-fourth pound of borax and one-half pound 
of flour (preferably rye flour) to each hide under treatment, 
and enough of this liquor is used to keep the hides covered ; 
and they are left in this liquor from two to four days, being 
handled with the wheel for two to three hours each day. 
The strength of the liquor is then renewed two or three 
times, according to the weight of the hides, and the hides 
handled therein until they are sufficiently tanned. The 
hides are then hung up in a drying loft and when thor- 
oughly dry, they are dampened in a vat of catechu, at a 
temperature of about sixty degrees, containing from twenty 
to thirty per cent, of catechu. The hides may now be put 
into a stuffing wheel for about one hour, then taken out and 
oiled with neatsfoot oil on the grain side, and then put back 
into the stuffing wheel for about an hour. 

The hides are now in suitable condition for glove leather 
and similar uses; or they may be stuffed with a stuffing 
made from tallow and wood tar, composed of one hundred 
pounds of tallow and twenty pounds of wood tar boiled and 
skimmed until they unite, and kept working in the wheel 
until dry. They may then be „ worked in any suitable 
manner until they are well stretched out. The leather 
treated in this way may be finished for either belting or 
lacing. It may be cut up, dampened and shaved, stuffed 
again with tallow and tar, and also neatsfoot oil, when 
desired, in a stuffing wheel while still damp for about an 
hour, and then dried for lace leather ; or it may be damp- 
ened, if too dry, in liquor, same as before, stuffed again and 
set out on a table and cut up and stretched for belting ; or 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 181 

it may be treated to make harness leather, being blackened 
before oiling and otherwise treated the same as for lace 
leather. Other kinds of leather may be finished in the 
usual way. Instead of stuffing the hides, they may, after 
being dampened with catechu to fill them with tannin, be 
treated with a tanning liquor to set the catechu, as in the 
ordinary process of tanning to make sole and similar 
leathers. When finished in this way, it is preferable to use 
a somewhat stronger liquor for filling, say one containing 
sixty per cent, of catechu. Of course modifications may be 
made in the use of this process according to the kind of 
hides being treated and the kind of leather desired. 

Another process of tanning hides, somewhat similar to the 
foregoing, 
Is carried out as follows : The hides are soaked, fleshed and 
unhaired and bated in the usual manner or in any manner 
desired. They are then handled two or three times a day 
for three or four days in a solution of alum, salt and cutch. 
Good results have been obtained by the use of three pounds 
of alum, one pound of salt, and a half pound of cutch to a 
sixty pound hide. These proportions may be varied. 
Other articles may be substituted for the said chemicals, as 
for instance saltpetre for salt, and japonica for cutch. After 
treating the hides as above, they are hung for two or three 
days in bark liquor formed of tan bark or bark extract and 
water, after which they are dried, dampened and stuffed, 
and finished by any well-known method of finishing leather 
according to the purpose for which the leather is to be used. 
The best way to use the bark liquor is to make it weak at 
first when the hides are first placed in it, say ten degrees 
strong, and to gradually increase the strength of the liquor 
until it is about thirty degrees. This process results in 
making a soft, pliable, well-filled leather, that may be fin- 
ished in various ways. A short quick liming for three or 
four days in lime and sulphide of sodium prepares the 
hides in a very satisfactory manner for the tannage. 



182 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

A composition of matter in connection with processes of tanning, 
And consisting of gambier, ten pounds ; sulphuric acid, one 
pound ; golden seal, in powder, one-half pound ; sweet fern 
extract, two pounds ; water, fifteen gallons, has been made 
the subject of a patent. The objects of this compound are 
to provide a tanning solution that will act speedily and 
effectively in tanning and dressing hides, and one that 
combines economy of ingredients with superiority over other 
compounds by reason of its penetrating properties and 
beauty of finish. 

In preparing the mixture used as a tanning compound* 
the gambier is dissolved independently in water, and then 
put in mixture with the other ingredients by ordinary 
mechanical means, the sulphuric acid being the last in- 
gredient. 

The compound having the function of dressing the hides 
after passing through the tanning process is composed of 
the following ingredients : soft water, six gallons ; sulphuric 
acid, one-half pound ; alum, one pound ; corn starch, one 
pound. The first step in the process of treating the hides 
or skins is to immerse the same in the tanning mixture, and 
letting them remain for one-half hour, then exposing them 
to the air for fifteen minutes. Being again returned to the 
mixture, they are allowed to remain for about twelve hours 
longer, when they are again exposed to the air for a short 
period of time. This work is repeated three times in the 
next twelve hours, then once a day for about eight days, 
when the hides or skins will be sufficiently tanned to be 
subjected to the next part of the process. This is the dress- 
ing mixture, and in this the hides or skins are allowed to 
remain about one hour, then washed in clean water, and 
hung up until they have become about half dry. Then 
the hides or skins are pulled and washed until thoroughly 
dry, when they will be sufficiently dressed, and will come 
out white, soft and pliable. A slight change in the dressing 
process is adhered to in the treatment of furs or skins with 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 183 

the hair on. In such cases the skins are immersed in the 
dressing compound, and let remain twelve hours ; are then 
taken out, washed in clear water, and hung up until half 
dry. They are then worked soft and pliable, and the fur 
or hair cleaned, and a fine finish is said to be obtained in 
this way. 

This process of tanning has for its object the treating of hides 

and skins in such a manner as to prevent them 

from becoming hard, 

And thus to produce leather having the qualities of soft- 
ness, pliability and strength to an unusual degree. In ap- 
plying the process, the hides or skins are taken, after having 
been cleaned of all impurities, such as blood, salt and lime, 
and spread out smooth. A coating of powdered crystal 
glauber salt is applied to the hides or skins. For a ten- 
pound skin as brought from a slaughter-house in its green 
and wet condition, one and one-half pounds of the salt will 
be found sufficient ; while at least six pounds should be 
used for a hide weighing from forty to sixty pounds. 
About one-half of the salt is spread over the hide in the 
first instance, after which the hide is permitted to lie for 
about twelve hours, in order to have the salt absorb all the 
moisture, and when this time has expired the balance of 
the glauber salt is applied. The skins or hides are then 
again exposed for from twelve to twenty-four hours. The 
next step is to smooth the hide out upon a table and to 
treat the same to a composition composed of one-fourth 
aqua ammonia to three-fourths of oil or grease, preferably 
unadulterated cod-fish oil. This is coated upon both sides 
of the hide by means of a brush. In the case of oils and 
grease of poor quality, the quantity of aqua ammonia 
should be less than above, while in the case of richer oil and 
grease, the quantity should be increased. The hide is now 
exposed for drying purposes. After drying, the hide is 
placed in clean water to dissolve any sulphate of ammonia 



184 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

or any of the parts of the glauber salt that may remain. 
The hide is then ready for the work of setting or stuffing, 
and after drying out again there is no staking necessary, as 
the leather will remain soft. The insoluble fatty com- 
pound will remain in the hide and adhere to the fibres 
severally, and not in a mass, leaving the fibres independent 
of each other, thus securing a perfect tanning, and putting 
the hide or skin in condition to reject water to a great 
extent. 

Instead of pulverizing the crystals of glauber salt and 
applying the same in dry powdered condition, the skins or 
hides may be placed into a solution of common salt and 
sulphuric acid, commonly called the " pickle." After the 
skins or hides are through this pickling process, the mixture 
of aqua ammonia and codfish oil is applied in the manner 
that has been described. 

This process has for its object the providing of a method of 

tanning leather whereby the hides are rendered 

soft and pliable, 

Their pores are opened to permit of the thorough and effect- 
ive penetration of the tanning liquor, which pores are then 
closed, the leather or hides are prevented from cracking, all 
the glue and gelatine therein being retained, consequently 
the leather is water-proof, and the liquor is prevented from 
souring, which foregoing objects are among the chief ad- 
vantages of this process. 

In apptying this process, the first step is to place the hides 
in a vat containing lye and salt, in the proportion of ten 
pounds of the latter to one pint of the former for each hide 
of light weight. After soaking of the hides a specified time, 
as well understood by those familiar with the work, there is 
added from time to time a small quantity of lye, until the 
hair of the hides begins to loosen. Should at this stage of 
the procedure a deodorizer be required, about one hundred 
drops of carbolic acid may be added. The second step is 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 185 

the liming of the hides, for which purpose, instead of lime 
as commonly used, lye or ashes is employed, one quart of 
either of which with water being added daily until the hair 
has become loosened. With a small amount of lye left in 
the hides, the latter will not crack, as has been experienced 
in the use of lime, in passing the hides through the tanning 
process proper ; also in the bating of the hides, the lye that 
remains in the same will prevent the liquor from becoming 
sour, which bating of the hides is the next step. The same 
is carried out by adding to the liquor bran to the extent of 
a peck at the beginning. The final or last step consists of 
subjecting the hides to the tanning process, the liquor of 
which is made of the following ingredients, in the quanti- 
ties named for a single hide : Ten pounds of salt, one pound 
of saccharine matter (sugar), to which is added one pound 
of French ochre for coloring purposes and one ounce of 
borax to impart softness to the hide, and water sufficient to 
cover the hide. The said ingredients with water, of course, 
are added in the same proportion for each additional hide 
placed in the vat. 

The liquor thus produced may also be used with all 
astringents, and with it, and with previous treatment of the 
hides, the latter are possessed of the following qualities, in 
addition to those already mentioned : The resultant leather 
can be exposed to the action of water for days, and it will 
be perfectly impervious thereto, and the tanning is effected 
in a minimum space of time, while the best color is ob- 
tained for the leather. 

Patented by G. W. Hersey, Empire, Wis. 

The following description relates to a patented process of man- 
ufacturing and finishing leather, which is adapted 
for use for vamps and tops of shoes, 

And may also be employed in the manufacture of other 
articles. The leather produced by this process possesses 
decided advantages as regards cheapness, durability, utility 



186 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and general appearance, and particular attention is directed 
to the inner or flesh side of the leather, which is colored a 
dull blue-black, giving it a distinctive appearance, which is- 
so desirable, and furthermore assisting materially to lessen 
the cost of its manufacture. 

The process used for the finishing of a calf or kangaroo 
skin or hide into leather adapted for the above uses is as 
follows : An unstuffed calf or kangaroo skin or hide, tanned 
by a gambier, quebracho or other vegetable tanning pro- 
cess, is stuffed to its proper constituency by the use of fat- 
liquor, and then dried in the usual manner. The inner 
or flesh side of the calf or kangaroo skin or hide is colored 
a blue-black by any desirable composition. After the flesh 
or inner side of the skin or hide is blue-blacked, the outer 
or grain side thereof is colored a jet-black by any desirable 
composition. After the inner and outer face of the skin or 
hide has been colored as desired, the same is then slicked 
out smooth to set out the grain on its outer or grained face. 
It is then dried in the usual manner. The skin or hide 
is then staked and trimmed in the ordinary way. 

The skin or hide is then seasoned by the use of blue- 
stone, iron, logwood, ammonia, blood and nigrosine, the 
proportions being as follows : Blue-stone, one-half pint * 
iron, one-eighth ounce ; logwood, one-half pint ; blood, one 
pint ; nigrosine, one-half pint. The skin or hide after it 
has been seasoned, is then dried at a temperature of 120° to 
180° Fah. After it is dried it is glazed in any desirable 
manner. 

The skin or hide after it has passed through the glazing 
process is again staked. After it has been staked it is 
seasoned again by the use of blue-stone, iron, logwood, 
ammonia, blood and nigrosine in quantities and proportions 
the same as in the first instance. After the seasoning the 
skin or hide is dried at a temperature of 120° to 180° Fah., 
and is then glazed in any desirable manner. 

After the glazing process is finished, the hide or skin is 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 187 

again staked, seasoned again by the use of blue-stone, one- 
half pint ; iron, one-eighth ounce ; logwood, one-half pint ; 
blood, one pint ; nigrosine, one-half pint. The hide or skin 
is then dried again and glazed, and is then ready for the 
market. 

The leather produced by the foregoing process has an 
unusually high-polished, grained surface, and possesses all 
the qualities of the ordinary leathers now on the market. 
It has the appearance of patent or enameled leather to a 
great extent, as well as glazed kids and other glazed 
leathers. At the same time, when in use the leather will 
be free from excessive cracking or breaking, which is usual 
in patent and enameled leathers. A patent has been taken 
out on the above process by Messrs. C. E. and H. A. Lappe, 
of Pittsburg, Pa. 

Rapid process of drum tanning. 

In the tanning of hides as generally conducted, the 
necessity of allowing the hides to remain for long periods of 
time in the tan pit has, when operations are conducted 
upon a large scale, involved the investment of a great 
amount of money, in that a large plant has been required 
to afford the space necessary for the number of pits it has 
been essential to use, and in that during the many months 
elapsing between the purchase of the hides and the comple- 
tion of the tanning operation, the capital invested in the 
hides is practically idle. In the following-described pro- 
cess, patented by Jacques Durio, of Turin, Italy, the time 
of converting raw hides into tanned leather is greatly 
shortened. 

The hides to be tanned are first unhaired and fleshed in 
any usual manner. Immediately after the completion of 
the unhairing and fleshing operations, the hides are placed 
in a bath of hydrate of soda, or soda ash, consisting of water 
four times the weight of the hides, and of the hydrate one 
to four per cent, of the weight of the hides, and the hides 



188 PKACTICAL TANNING. 

are allowed to remain in this bath for from three to six 
hours. The hides are given this hydrate of soda bath for 
the double purpose of removing as much as possible of the 
lime which has adhered to them, and at the same time of 
dissolving out from them as much as possible of the fatty 
matters naturally in or adhering to the same. The hides 
are then washed by an energetic fulling or drumming 
operation with pure water, in the same vessel if desired, the 
result of which is that by the action of the water and by 
the manipulation of the hides the latter are caused to expel 
from their pores a large proportion of the lime and the fatty 
and other foreign matters. After the fulling or drumming 
operation, the work of removing the lime, fatty matters and 
hydrate of soda, or other foreign matters or impurities, is 
continued by subjecting said hides to a very careful purg- 
ing or scudding. After allowing the hides to remain in a 
bath of water for about twelve hours, they may be placed 
in piles and allowed to drain for ten hours. Then, to free 
the hides from grease, they are subjected to the action of 
benzine, turpentine or other solvent, preferably by placing 
the hides in a drum with the solvent and rotating the 
drum to effect a fulling action upon the hides. This opera- 
tion lasts about two hours. The solvent, being of extreme 
fluidity, rapidly permeates the interior of the hides, and 
displaces, forces or draws out by physical or chemical 
action, a further amount of grease or other impure sub- 
stances, which float, so to speak, on the surface of the 
hides and form a deposit in the nature of a coating thereon. 
After the formation of this deposit or coating, and while 
the drum is still rotating, the final step of the preparatory 
stage of the process is performed, which consists in the 
addition to the mass within the drum of a quantity from 
one-tenth to one-fifth of the weight of the hides, of pure 
tannic acid, the drumming or rotation of the drum being 
continued for a period of time ranging from one-half hour 
to one hour. The tannic acid introduced to the mass 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 189 

within the drum effects an incipient or preparatory tanning 
of the hides. 

By the last operation the impurities are separated from 
the hides, and then removed from the drum, the hides 
being left free from grease, lime and foreign matters, with 
their pores well dilated, and the texture and fibre of the 
hide well prepared for the final tanning stage of the 
process. 

The hides are left in the drum, and there is introduced 
to them a quantity of pure tannic extract proportionate to 
the area of the drum and the quantity of hides contained 
therein, and the drum is rotated and the hides subjected to 
a fulling operation, this operation being continued until 
the hides are completely tanned, the time ranging from 
two to eighteen hours, according to the thickness of the 
hides. 

Instead of subjecting the hides to a preferred preparatory 
treatment with tannic extract and then to a final treatment 
with the extract, as has been described, the process may be 
performed by treating the hides with tannic extract intro- 
duced thereto at intervals, from time to time, or it may be 
performed by subjecting the hides to tannic extract applied 
in one operation. The results generally obtained, how- 
ever, by the last-named mode of operation are less satisfac- 
tory than the results obtained by the others. When the 
hides are removed from the drum, they will be found, not- 
withstanding the brevity of their exposure to the tanning 
extract, thoroughly and uniformly tanned, and the product, 
even in the case of the heaviest hides, will be of fine, 
salable and durable quality of leather. 

In the ordinary tanning operations it is customary to 
employ a tanning material known as tannic solution or 
liquor, made by adding water to commercially pure tannic 
extract. By this rapid process of tanning, the results of 
the process are obtained by the use of tannic extract in 
contra-distinction to tannic solutions. By the term " tannic 



190 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

extract " is meant the well known article of commerce, the 
same being an infusion or leach of a suitable vegetable sub- 
stance such as chestnut wood, oak bark, etc., concentrated 
by evaporation. 

The addition of water to tannic extract results in the 
chemical or physical disintegration of the extract and the 
precipitation of certain constituent elements thereof, so that 
the decreased fluidity of the extract and the diminished 
active tannin or other astringent tanning principle thereof, 
render it a much less effective tanning agent than the 
tannic extract from which it has been made. The inventor 
of this process claims that in the process of tanning by the 
use of tannic solutions there is a loss, which is due on the 
one hand to the precipitation by the addition of water to 
the tanning extract of substances which by precipitation 
become inert and inactive in the tanning operation, and on 
the other hand to a decreased weight in leather by reason 
of the diminished quantity of astringent or tannic principle 
remaining in the solution as compared to that contained in 
the original extract from which it was prepared. The 
advantages, therefore, that he claims are incident to the 
use of tannic extract as opposed to tannic solutions, are a 
decrease in the time necessary for the tanning operation ; 
an improvement in the quality of the leather produced ; a 
material saving in the quantity of tanning extract or agent 
necessary to be employed, and an increased weight of 
leather produced. Another advantage claimed for the use 
of the tannic extract as opposed to the use of tannic solu- 
tion is that in the tanning operation with the use of solu- 
tions it is usually necessary to throw away and lose a great 
portion of the tannic solution remaining at the end of the 
tanning operation, not only because of the fact that it con- 
tains precipitates and impurities incident to the admixture 
of water with extract to form the solution, but also because 
the water in said solution, and the impurities contained in 
it, occasion the further deterioration of the solution, so as 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 191 

to render it unfit for use in a tanning operation subsequent 
to the first few operations in which it is employed. In the 
use of tannic extract in this process, the extract remaining 
at the end of a tanning operation is sufficiently clean, pure 
and strong to be well suited for use in subsequent tanning 
operations, from which it results that the tannic extract at 
the end of the tanning operation need not be thrown away 
and become waste material, but may be further repeatedly 
utilized, and thus offers a large saving of expense. 

Another rapid process of drum tanning 

is the invention of S. and G. Durio, of Turin, Italy, and 
has for its object the provision of means whereby the time 
required in tanning hides is not only reduced, and a final 
product of superior quality obtained, but the operation of 
tanning is simplified and the labor and expense connected 
with the same materially reduced. In this process abnor- 
mally strong solutions of tannin or tannic extract are 
employed, and the leather prevented from becoming case- 
hardened, burned or otherwise injured by being kept in 
more or less violent motion. By this process the largest 
and heaviest hides can be tanned in about thirty hours, 
hides of less size and weight can be tanned in about twenty 
hours, while such skins as sheep, lamb, and goatskins, 
can be tanned in about four hours. By the term abnor- 
mally strong tannin or tannic acid solutions is meant solu- 
tions of a strength not less than 6J degrees Beaume, equal 
to 48| degrees barkometer, although it is preferable to use 
a solution of a strength of from about 8 degrees Be., equal 
to 60 degrees barkometer, to 20 degrees Be\, equal to 150 
degrees barkometer, the strength of the solution being 
kept uniform during the entire process by the addition of 
tannin or tannic acid. In carrying out this process, a solu- 
tion of tannin or tannic acid of the strength above referred to 
is prepared and poured into any suitable vessel to which 
motion may be imparted, as, for instance, a pin-mill drum, 



192 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

after which the hides are introduced, and the drum is set 
in motion, and the motion is continued until the hides are 
tanned, except for such brief periods as are necessary to test 
the strength of the solution and reconstitute the same to its 
original strength, or to a strength slightly above its original 
strength. If the hides are large and heavy, the strength of 
the solution may vary from 8 degrees Beaume, equal to 60 
degrees barkometer, to 20 degrees Be., equal to 150 degrees 
barkometer, the quantity of solution being sufficient to 
nearly half fill the vessel before the hides are put in. Dur- 
ing the milling of the hides in the drum, the liquor is 
tested from time to time and reconstituted to its original 
strength, or slightly above its original strength, so that 
when the operation of tanning is completed, which for large 
and heavy hides does not exceed thirty hours, the liquor in 
the drum will be of the strength required for a fresh lot of 
hides. For small skins, such as sheep, goat, and the like, 
the strength of the liquor may be reduced to about 6| 
degrees Beaume, equal to 48f degrees barkometer if desired, 
but it is preferable to use liquor of about 8 degrees Beaume, 
equal to 60 degrees barkometer, though this may be in- 
creased to 20 degrees Beaume, equal to 150 degrees barko- 
meter, without the least injury to the stock, the time 
required for tanning being from two to four hours. For 
hides of medium weight, the time required is about twenty 
hours or less, according to the weight of the hides, the 
strength of the liquor being as above stated, or from 8 
degrees to 20 degrees Beaume. In this process of tanning 
the hides do not undergo any special preparation, except 
depilation, swelling or raising, removal of flesh and fat, and 
washing, i. e., the usual preparations necessary to place 
the hides in proper condition to be acted upon by the 
tannic acid. Neither grease, dubbing, nor chemicals of 
any kind are employed either before or during the process 
of tanning. For the purpose of tanning, any suitable 
tannic acid may be used, preferably as pure a tannic acid 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 193 

as can be obtained. The hides are introduced into the 
drum, and not again handled until the operation of tanning 
is completed, after which the leather is treated in the usual 
manner. 

If it is desired, the hides may at the start be subjected to 
the action of a weak liquor, as, for instance, a liquor of 
about 3 degrees to 4 degrees Beaume, the strength or 
density of the liquor being gradually increased to from 8 
degrees to 20 degrees Beaume. There is, . however, no 
special advantage in doing this, and although the results 
are the same, yet the time required for tanning a lot of 
hides or skins is increased, and for this reason it is prefer- 
able to start the operation with what is considered an abnor- 
mally strong solution, the strength of which is uniformly 
maintained from the beginning to the end of the opera- 
tion, so as to leave the liquor in a condition for use with a 
fresh lot of hides. After the liquor has been used for about 
six times it should be filtered to remove foreign matter 
therefrom. 

Any suitable apparatus may be employed, yet such 
apparatus should be provided with special devices for 
facilitating the strengthening up of the tanning liquor from 
time to time, and particularly for discharging the gases 
evolved during the operation of tanning. The time of 
tanning is shortened from days to a few hours. 

In the practical application of the original Schultz tivo-bath 

process, 
The skins are tanned in the following manner : The first 
bath consists of four pounds of bichromate of potash and 
two pounds of muriatic acid in sufficient water to enable 
the skins to process nicely. The quantities of bichromate 
of potash and acid mentioned are for every one hundred 
pounds of skins, weighed as they come from the preparatory 
processes. The bichromate of potash is first dissolved in 
hot water, and then the muriatic acid is added. This first 
13 



194 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

bath may be applied to the skins in a drum or in a vat. 
When a drum is used, from ten to fifteen gallons of water 
are required for every hundred pounds of skins, and the 
skins drummed in the yellow chrome liquor until they are 
thoroughly impregnated with it, when the first bath is com- 
pleted. When a paddle vat is used, enough water is re- 
quired to cover the skins, so that they are allowed to float 
and turn in the liquor by the action of the paddles. Both 
methods are used. The drum method is, however, usually 
preferred, as the results are accomplished in shorter time 
than when vats are used. It is highly important that the 
skins are thoroughly impregnated with the chrome liquor, 
in order that they may be completely tanned in the second 
bath. The length of time consumed by the first bath de- 
pends upon the thickness of the skins. Very light sheep 
and goat-skins require only a short time, sometimes less 
than an hour, while heavier skins need longer time. 

When the skins are removed from the liquor, the strength 
is not usually exhausted, and the liquor may be used for 
another lot of skins by strengthening it up with bichromate 
of potash and acid. When bichromate of potash is acted 
upon by muriatic acid, there result chromic acid and 
chloride of potash. The latter does not assist at all the 
tanning, neither does it do any harm. While the skins are 
saturated with chromic acid, they are in a very sensitive 
condition, and require careful and intelligent handling. 
They should not be exposed to the air or strong sunlight, 
but kept protected until they are placed in the second 
bath. The practical object of soaking or drumming the 
skins in the chromic acid liquor is to have the chromic 
acid in the skins when they go into the second bath, in 
which the actual tanning takes place. After the first 
bath is completed and the skins are removed from the 
liquor, they should be left in piles for a few hours, in order 
that the surplus liquor may drain off, or they may be 
pressed or struck out, and are then ready for the second bath. 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 195 

The original formula for this part of the process was ten 
pounds of hyposulphite of soda and two and one-half 
pounds of muriatic acid for every one hundred pounds of 
skins. The hyposulphite of soda is dissolved in hot water 
and then the muriatic acid is poured in and the solution 
is well stirred, and then incorporated in the required 
quantity of water. This part of the process is usually 
done in paddle vats. The skins are left in the liquor until 
the yellow color has entirely disappeared and the skins 
have assumed a pale bluish color through the thickest part 
of the heaviest skin, which is perceived by cutting. By the 
time this has been accomplished the skins are tanned and 
may then be removed from the liquor and washed thor- 
oughly and then finished. For the second bath it is 
good practice to make up a liquor by using only half of 
the quantities named, and after the sulphur smell has be- 
come faint and the skins seem to have absorbed all the sul- 
phurous acid, to add the other half of the materials used 
and leaving the skins in until they are entirely leathered. 
Good results are also obtained by dipping the skins as they 
come from the press or the striking machine after the first 
bath in a weak solution of hyposulphite of soda and acid. 
By this method the skins are not subjected to the strong 
solution at the start, which sometimes causes a rough grain 
and closes the pores of the skins, which are especially un- 
desirable on grain-finished leather. 

The quantities of hyposulphite of soda and muriatic acid 
required by a lot of skins depend somewhat upon their 
condition when they go into the second bath. Usually it 
requires two and one-half times as much hyposulphite of 
soda as of bichromate of potash used. The work of the 
second liquor can be accomplished in a few hours, although 
the best results are obtained when the skins are left in the 
liquor over night. They may go into the liquor, say at 
four o'clock, and be paddled until six o'clock, and after lying 
in the liquor over night, may be paddled a short time in 



196 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the morning, and will then be thoroughly tanned. It is 
never productive of the best results to hurry the skins. 
The longer time they are given in both the first and the 
second bath, the better will be the final result. 

The muriatic acid acting upon the hyposulphite of soda 
causes the formation of sulphurous acid, sulphur, and 
chloride of sodium. The sulphurous acid thus formed is 
the active agent of the bath, and by its action upon the 
chromic acid of the first bath with which the skins are 
impregnated, causes the formation of chromic oxide through- 
out the skins, and this results in leather. Skins can also 
be tanned by reversing the usual order, and first soaking 
the skins in the liquor of hyphosulphite of soda and acid, 
and then applying to them the chrome liquor. The time 
consumed is considerably shortened when the liquors are 
used at a temperature of about ninety degrees. For chemi- 
cal reasons it is necessary when tanning with this process 
to use enough muriatic acid in the first bath to liberate all 
the chromic oxide. In consequence of this, and because 
the tanner does not always understand the process and fails 
to properly adjust the proportions, there is an excess of 
muriatic acid used which remains as such in the liquor not 
in combination with the bichromate of potash. This re- 
sults in injury to the leather. Chromic acid is frequently 
used by tanners in the first bath. When it is used, no 
muriatic acid is required ; only so much chromic acid is 
used as the tanner would use of bichromate of potash ; i. e., 
if a tanner would use four pounds of potash and two 
pounds of acid he would require to accomplish the same re- 
sults four pounds of chromic acid and no muriatic acidat all. 

The inventor of the process that has just been described is also 
the discoverer of the following process, 

Upon which he has been granted a patent : For each hun : 
dred pounds of skins as they come from the beam-house, 
drained after the final washing, four pounds of bichromate 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 197 

of potash and three pounds of muriatic acid of a strength 
of 20 degrees Be. are mingled with the quantity of water 
necessary to drum the skins in. In this liquor the skins 
are drummed until they are thoroughly impregnated with 
the liquor ; then they are removed from the drum, drained 
or pressed or struck out, and are then ready for the second 
bath. One hundred gallons of water are heated to a tem- 
perature of about ninety degrees. Into this are poured five 
pounds and five ounces of sulphuric acid of a strength of 
66 degrees Be. This is well mixed through the water, and 
then are added, by being slowly sifted in, four pounds of 
peroxide of sodium. While this is being done, the liquor 
should be constantly stirred. When all the peroxides of 
sodium have been added, the previously-chromed skins are 
entered into the liquor and paddled until they are tanned, 
which can be readily seen by the tanner. In this process 
no sulphurous acid is evolved. The grain of the skins is 
left smooth and readily adapted to receive a glazed or 
enameled finish. 

Skins to be tanned according to the Zahn process 

Are taken after the final washing or drenching and treated 
to a bath composed of, for every one hundred pounds of 
skins, five pounds of bichromate of potash, two pounds of 
salt and two and one-half pounds of muriatic acid. This 
may be applied to the skins in a drum or in a paddle-vat. 
When a drum is used, the volume of liquor should be about 
ten gallons, while in a vat it is, of course, much more, the 
dissolved chrome and acids being mingled with at least 
fifty gallons of water. The skins are exposed to the action 
of this solution for a sufficient length of time to enable 
them to become thoroughly impregnated with it, after 
which they should be allowed to remain in the liquor for 
a number of hours and then drained and pressed for Some 
hours. They are then transferred to the second bath, 
which consists, for every hundred pounds of skins, of eight 



198 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

pounds of hyposulphite of soda and one and one-half 
pounds of sulphuric acid of a strength of sixty-six degrees 
Baume, dissolved in ten gallons of water. This solution is 
mixed with sufficient water in a tub or vat, and the skins 
placed therein and stirred about for thirty minutes. After 
an intermission of half an hour they are again stirred about 
for thirty minutes, and then allowed to remain in the 
liquor with occasional stirring for ten or twelve hours, ac- 
cording to their thickness. From this bath they are washed 
and then placed in the third bath, by which the leather is 
made strong and suppleness and softness imparted to it. 
This third bath is composed of a mixture of saponified 
neatsfoot oil and two ounces of caustic soda, which are dis- 
solved in one gallon of water and heated by steam until 
the oil is thoroughly saponified. Then an extract of five 
pounds of quercitron bark, or any other solution containing 
tannic acid may be used. This last liquor is given to the 
skins in a pin-mill drum, and the skins drummed in the 
solution for about thirty minutes, then they are removed 
and dried in the usual manner. 

If the leather is to be colored fancy shades, 

The dyeing may be done while the stock is in the drum, it 
being finally washed off and allowed to dry. For black, 
the leather should be removed from the drum and dyed 
either on tables or in trays or boxes. After coloring or 
blacking, a light coat of oil is applied to the grain of the 
leather, which is afterwards dried in a warm room, staked 
or worked soft, glazed or ironed in the usual way. For 
preparing the skins for this process of tanning, and to get 
soft, smooth-grained leather, the skins are prepared in a 
solution of sodium for three or four days, after which they 
may be limed for a day or two, then bated in the process 
usually employed, washed, and are then ready for tanning. 
The difference between this process in which three baths 
are used, and the regular two-bath chrome process, is that 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 199 

in the latter case the first bath consists of four pounds of 
bichromate of potash and two pounds of muriatic acid for 
every one hundred pounds of skins, while in this process 
the first bath is composed of five pounds of bichromate of 
potash, two pounds of salt, and two and one-half pounds of 
muriatic acid. For the second bath the Schultz process 
calls for ten pounds of hyposoda and two and one-half 
pounds of muriatic acid, while in the Zahn process eight 
pounds of hyposoda and one and one-half pounds of sul- 
phuric acid are used. Then the skins are given the last 
bath, which in the Schultz process is not used at all. 

The following description relates to an improved process of 

chrome tanning, 
By which some economy and other advantages are ob- 
tained. The beam-house work for this process is the same 
as for any other process of chrome tanning. The tanning 
is also practically the same, with the exception that in this 
process a continuous evolution of nascent hydrogen is pro- 
vided for in the second or reducing bath. The nascent 
hydrogen operates to change the sulphurous acid present in 
the second bath into hyposulphurous acid, which is a very 
powerful reducing agent, and also possessed of other advan- 
tages that will be mentioned and described later on. In 
this process of chrome tanning the hides or skins are first 
subjected, in the usual manner, to bichromate of potash or 
of soda, dissolved in water to which an acid, such as hydro- 
chloric acid, is added. The first bath of the process is 
usually made up, for each one hundred pounds of skins, of 
about five pounds of bichromate of potash or of soda, and 
two and one-half pounds of hydrochloric acid of 21 degrees 
Be., or an equivalent amount of sulphuric acid, the quan- 
tity of water used being sufficient to properly cover the 
skins. The hides or skins are treated to this liquor until 
they are thoroughly impregnated with the chrome com- 
pound, and are then removed, pressed or struck out, to 



200 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

remove surplus liquor, and are ready for the second or 
reducing bath. 

The difference between this process of tanning and the 
regular chrome process, is in the manner of reducing the 
chromic acid in the skins to chromic oxide in the second 
bath. This second bath usually consists of hyposulphite of 
soda, muriatic acid and water. The action of the acid 
upon the hyposulphite of soda is to cause the generation of 
sulphurous acid and sulphur. The active agent in this 
bath is the sulphurous acid which quickly penetrates the 
hides or skins, while sulphur is also deposited in the fibres 
of the grain and flesh sides of the skins. The sulphurous 
acid is ver}' corrosive, and together with the sulphur clings 
most tenaciously to the leather, so that after the tanning is 
completed the leather requires a very thorough washing to 
rid it of these objectionable materials, which, left in the 
stock, cause serious damage to it. The use of the ordinary 
reducing bath of sulphurous acid has therefore some very 
unpleasant features. It is the object of this improvement 
to overcome the unpleasant features by causing a continu- 
ous liberation of nascent hydrogen in the bath, the effects 
of which are to convert the sulphurous acid into hyposul- 
phurous acid. This result is accomplished by the employ- 
ment of metallic zinc in the bath. This is very simply and 
economically achieved by placing a number of pieces of 
zinc in the paddle or reel containing the bath, these pieces 
being sufficiently large and heavy to remain at the bottom 
of the reel. The action of the acid bath is to liberate 
nascent hydrogen from the metallic zinc. Other methods 
of accomplishing the objects of this process may be em- 
ployed. 

For the treatment of one thousand pounds of skins, the 
inventor recommends a bath of one hundred and twenty- 
five pounds of hyposulphite of soda and fifty pounds of 
muriatic acid in six hundred and fifty gallons of water, 
and to this bath are added sixty pounds of metallic zinc. 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 201 

The zinc should be allowed to remain when the liquor is 
drawn off after the bath is exhausted and a new bath is 
prepared, and about five pounds of zinc should be added 
once a week. Instead of pieces of zinc being used in the 
liquor, the vat or reel may be lined with sheet zinc and 
thus a large surface be exposed to the action of the acid 
liquor. In place of hyposulphite of soda and acid, a solu- 
tion of bisulphite of soda is sometimes used to accomplish 
the work of the second bath. When this material is used, 
no muriatic acid is required, as the bisulphite of soda is 
charged with sulphurous acid gas. The quantity of this 
material used may be the same as of hyposulphite of soda, 
and the metallic zinc may be used in a bath prepared in 
this way in the same manner as has been described. No 
sulphur is evolved in such a solution, but the nascent 
hydrogen is none the less an advantage, as it lessens the 
quantity of bisulphite of soda that is required by changing 
the sulphurous acid into hyposulphurous acid. It is cus- 
tomary, after the skins are taken from the first chrome bath 
and pressed or struck out, to dip each one singly into a 
dilute solution of hyposulphite of soda and muriatic acid, 
this treatment being for the purpose of accomplishing a 
slight surface reduction, and thus bringing the stock into 
the best condition for the reducing bath. A vessel lined 
with zinc may be advantageously used to contain the liquor 
into which the skins are dipped, or pieces of zinc may be 
added to the solution, as the nascent hydrogen which will 
thus be developed will increase the efficacy of the solution. 
Less hyposulphite of soda will be required and less sulphur 
will be developed. 

The advantages of this method of tanning are that a 
comparatively small amount of sulphur is liberated, and 
little or no sulphurous acid brought into contact with the 
skins or hides, so that when the latter are taken from the 
reducing bath, very little washing is necessary to perfectly 
cleanse them and make them quite neutral and in good 



202 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

condition for the subsequent finishing operations, and in 
this way material economies of time, labor and apparatus 
are gained. By this method of evolving hyposulphurous 
acid in the bath, which is a more powerful reducing agent 
than sulphurous acid, less hyposulphite of soda is required 
than in the regular acid process. The quantity of hypo- 
sulphite of soda used may be reduced one-half, that is to 
say, where twenty per cent, of the weight of the skins of 
hyposulphite of soda have been used, and five per cent, of 
muriatic acid, ten per cent, of hyposulphite of soda and five 
per cent, of muriatic acid will suffice in this method of 
tanning. On a large scale this means a considerable 
saving. 

Patented by W. M. Norris, Princeton, N. J. 

Reducing with Hydrogen Dioxide. 

When skins are saturated with a chromate such as 
bichromate of potash and an acid such as muriatic acid, 
and then submitted to the action of a reducing agent suffi- 
ciently strong and rapid in its action, chromic oxide is 
separated out through the body of the skins, and leather 
results. This is the principle of the two-bath chrome pro- 
cess. To accomplish the reduction of the chromic acid 
with which skins are impregnated when they come from 
the first bath, a number of agents have been proposed and 
used. 

In the foregoing processes, hyposulphite of soda in the 
presence of muriatic or sulphuric acid has been the reduc- 
ing agent. Other reducing agents that have been proposed 
are hydrogen sulphide, either as gas or evolved from a 
metallic sulphide in conjunction with an acid, such as 
ferrous sulphate, cuprous sulphate or chloride, oxalic acid 
of greater or less activity. A two-bath process in which the 
skins are saturated with bichromate of potash and muriatic 
acid, and the chromic oxide in them reduced to chromic 
oxide by the use of hydrogen dioxide, is carried out in the 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 203 

following manner. The hides or skins are prepared for 
tanning in the usual way, that is, they are limed, unhaired, 
bated and washed, or pickled skins may be tanned in the 
pickled state. The first part of this process, as with all 
two-bath processes, consists of a liquor composed of bichro- 
mate of potash and muriatic acid in the proportions of five 
pounds of the former, and two and one-half pounds of 
muriatic acid of 21 degrees Be\ for each hundred pounds of 
hides or skins. This is applied to the hides or skins in a 
drum and the drumming continued until the yellow liquor 
has penetrated every fibre of the thickest skin. The second 
part of the process consists of a dilute solution of hydrogen 
dioxide. In this bath the color of the skins is changed as 
the reduction proceeds, from yellow to greenish-blue, some- 
thing of a slate color. For this method of reducing the 
chromic acid to chromic oxide, the claims are made that 
there is nothing foreign or injurious added to the stock dur- 
ing tanning to seriously affect the finished product. 

This is an important advantage over all other reducing 
agents. There is no separated sulphur that requires pro- 
longed washing out, as with the use of hyposulphite of soda 
and acid ; no sulphuric acid is formed by the oxidation of 
the reducing agent, and no oxides of iron or copper formed 
to affect the character of the leather. In this process the 
reduction is very rapid, much more so than when other 
agents are used, and the bichromate is changed in the hides 
before it can bleed or diffuse out as sometimes takes place 
with reducing agents of slow power. It is not necessary to 
have the hydrogen dioxide ready prepared in solution, but 
the same results are obtained by the use of such peroxides 
as will produce hydrogen dioxide with dilute acids, as 
barium peroxide, sodium peroxide, and others of similar 
properties. The bath of hydrogen dioxide is kept slightly 
acid with muriatic or sulphuric acid, and the hydrogen 
dioxide or metallic peroxide for its generation is added in 
small successive portions, so the mutual decomposing action 



204 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

with the chromic acid in the skins goes on steadily, but 
without loss of oxygen from the decomposition of the 
dioxide in the bath. During this part of the process the 
hides or skins should be kept in motion so that not only 
will they be uniformly exposed to the liquor, but will be 
freed from the oxygen gas which escapes from the surface of 
the hides or skins in minute bubbles. A point of import- 
ance to be noticed in connection with the second bath is 
that no metallic surfaces be exposed to the action of the 
solution. Vats made onfy of wood should be used, as other- 
wise considerable hydrogen dioxide will be decomposed and 
lost without doing its work upon the skins. At first the 
yellow chromed skins turn a decided blue color in the 
reduction bath, but this does not affect the result, as it soon 
disappears when the green color of the reduction shows 
itself. The color gradually changes from yellow to green- 
ish-blue, as is the case in all chrome processes of tanning. 

The reducing bath for this method of tanning may be 
prepared with sodium peroxide instead of hydrogen di- 
oxide, as has been already suggested. In practice this is 
accomplished by heating one hundred gallons of water 
to a temperature of ninety degrees. This water is acidified 
by the addition of five pounds and five ounces of sulphuric 
acid of a strength of 66 degrees Beaume\ The acid should 
be well stirred throughout the water, and then are added 
by being slowly sifted in four pounds of sodium peroxide, 
the liquor being constantly stirred. When all the sodium 
peroxide has been added, the bichromated skins, after drain- 
ing or pressing, are entered into the liquor and stirred 
about until the reduction of the chromic acid is complete 
and the skins are tanned, which can be readily seen by the 
tanner. The skins may be paddled for an hour or two, 
then left still in the liquor over night and paddled again 
for a short time the next morning, The process may also 
be completed in less time than this, according to the 
necessity of hurry and thickness of the skins. Before 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 205 

coloring and drying out the leather, it should be very 
thoroughly washed. 

Patented by Samuel P. Sadtler, Philadelphia. 

Among the various processes used to accomplish the changing 

of the chromic acid in skins into chromic oxide 
Is one by which the work is accomplished by the use of 
sulphate of iron in combination with acetic acid. In carry- 
ing out this process, the skins are prepared for tanning in 
the usual manner, and are then immersed or treated in a 
drum with a solution of chromic acid. This may be com- 
posed of bichromate of potash and muriatic acid in the 
regular way, or of chromic acid in powder form dissolved 
in water without the muriatic acid. Some acetic acid is 
added to the liquor. This liquor is composed of the usual 
proportions, and the skins are saturated with it until they 
are thoroughly impregnated with it, the length of time de- 
pending upon the thickness of the skins. When the chrome 
liquor has thoroughly penetrated the skins they are pressed 
or are drained until they are freed of the surplus liquor. 
Then they are ready for the reducing bath. This is a 
solution of sulphate of iron, in proportion of one part iron 
to nine parts of water, in which the skins must remain un- 
til the tannage is complete. After this the skins are 
washed and dried in the usual manner. With either or 
both of the solutions is combined acetic acid in the pro- 
portions of one part of acid to sixteen parts of solution. 
In place of acetic acid, any chemical equivalent may be 
employed. Instead of pure acetic acid, either vinegar or 
pyroligneous acid may be used.* The proportions of in- 
gredients used in this method of tanning may be changed; 
the order of solutions may also be reversed. In place of 
chromic acid or bichromate of potash in the first bath, 
other chrome salts may be used, as for example, bichromate 
of soda, also bichromate of ammonia. While the sulphate of 
iron is considered the best article to use in the second bath, 
other iron salts may be substituted. 



206 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The acetic acid used may be in the pure form, or as con- 
tained in vinegar or pyroligneous acid. The use of the 
acetic acid is very essential in getting a thoroughly and 
uniformly tanned leather. The acid may be used in con- 
nection with either of the alternative baths. When it is 
not used, and the skins are immersed simply in the chromic 
acid bath and then in the sulphate of iron liquor, to which 
no acetic acid has been added, the iron salts do not pene- 
trate properly, and the result is a crusty deposit on the 
skins, and the grain is brittle and hard and the interior of 
the skins is hard, owing to its being improperly tanned. 
When acetic acid is used, the penetration of both the 
chromic and iron salts is uniform throughout the skins, the 
leather is thoroughly tanned and finished up soft, tough 
and with a fine smooth grain. Pickled skins, such as 
pickled sheep, lamb and goat-skins, alo pickled hides may 
be tanned in this process in the pickled condition, no 
drenching being necessary, simply a drumming or soaking 
in salt water to soften and open them out. 

Patented by S. Chadwick, Philadelphia, Pa. 

This method of tawing, is a process for the making of chrome 

leather, 

And consists of subjecting the hides or skins to a liquor 
containing a chrome salt, and then treating the same with 
a solution containing a cuprous salt. One hundred pounds 
of hides or skins are prepared for the process in the usual 
way. Then they are immersed in a solution of five pounds 
of bichromate of potash and two pounds of salt, which are 
dissolved in five gallons of water, to which two and a-half 
pounds of hydrochloric acid are added. The hides or skins 
remain in this solution until they are thoroughly penetrated 
with the liquor, which usually takes from three to five 
hours, but in the case of thin skins less than three hours 
are required. Either drums or paddle vats may be used, 
the same as for any process of chrome tanning. The sur- 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 207 

plus liquor is then removed by pressure or by striking out 
on a machine. The second bath of this process differs from 
all other two-bath processes by reason of its being made up 
of sulphate of copper, salt and alum. For every two hun- 
dred pounds of hides or skins to be treated, five and one- 
half pounds of sulphate of copper, thirty pounds of common 
salt, and six pounds of alum, dissolved in twenty-five 
gallons of water are used. This solution is run into a 
closed vat containing copper cuttings, and is left to stand 
upon them until the solution has become almost colorless, 
which indicates that the cupric salt is reduced to cuprous 
salt, which is kept in solution by the presence of the com- 
mon salt. This solution is now ready for use, and the 
hides or skins are immersed therein. As soon as they are 
immersed in this solution their previous yellow color is 
rapidly changed into a greenish-blue color, as the hides or 
skins contain chrome as well as copper, after which they 
are ready for further treatment. 

In preparing the copper solution, cupric chloride may be 
used in place of cupric sulphate ; also in place of common 
salt, any other neutral substance which is known to be a 
solvent of cuprous chloride may be used. The solution 
once used may be reinforced from time to time by the addi- 
tion of such substances as have disappeared from it partly 
or wholly by being taken up by the skins. The solution 
may, after being treated with metal copper, be again used 
for another quantity of hides or skins. The solution that 
cannot be used any more, can be freed from copper by run- 
ning it into tanks containing scrap-iron, on which the cop- 
per is precipitated. 

In place of treating the skins first with a chrome solu- 
tion, the copper solution can be first applied to the skins 
prepared for the process, after which they may be treated 
with the acidified bichromate of potash solution. 

Patented by H. Endemann, Brooklyn, N. Y. 



208 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ONE-BATH PROCESSES OF CHROME TANNING. 

Owing to the many unpleasant features of two-bath tan- 
ning, and the difficulties and perplexities and failures met 
with by inexperienced tanners in using the two-bath liquors, 
without sufficient knowledge or experience, the one-bath 
processes of chrome tanning have become very popular. 
They deserve their popularity, by reason of the simplicity 
and ease with which leather can be made. There are 
several one-bath processes that have been introduced, all 
possessing some merit. The tanning material is sold to the 
tanner in concentrated form, all ready for use. In a gen- 
eral way these liquors are used in much the same manner 
as sumac, bark and gambier liquors are used. When 
they are used in paddle vats the skins are entered into a 
weak liquor at the start, and as they absorb the tanning 
material contained in the liquor, the strength of the bath is 
increased until it becomes a fairly strong solution. Any 
tanner who has had experience with two-bath processes 
finds the one-bath method exceedingly simple, while any 
tanner not familiar with chrome tanning, but experienced 
in bark or sumac tanning, ought to be able to readily under- 
stand the new process and to meet with little difficulty in 
making chrome leather by a one-bath process. While a 
great deal of the quality of the finished leather depends 
upon how the skins are tanned, much more depends upon 
how the skins are prepared for tanning, and how they are 
treated after they are tanned, during the processes of curry- 
ing and finishing. One-bath liquors do not change char- 
acter with age, and are not injured by frost nor exposure. 
They are clean and free from smell and stain, and can be 
regulated by the tanner to tan slowly or quickly as he may 
desire. When they are used in vats, the liquors can be 
used over and over for successive lots of skins, by being 
strengthened up, and great economy can thus be attained. 
In two-bath processes the skins are subjected to the action 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 209 

of corrosive materials which often produce damage to the 
leather. 

This is all avoided when one-bath liquors are used, as 
they are neutral, or nearly so, and free from uncombined 
acids. The results that follow their use can be easily 
regulated, and are as a usual thing very uniform and 
reliable. The mere tanning with these concentrated liquors 
is a very simple and straightforward process, and little ex- 
perience is required by the tanner, provided the skins or 
hides have been properly prepared in the beam-house. 
Thorough liming and bating or drenching is necessary in 
order that the skins may be soft and pliable to begin with. 
As chrome leather is usually finished upon the grain, the 
skins require to be handled in such a manner that the grain 
is left smooth and strong, and not allowed to become rough, 
coarse or weak. In order that the skins may be thoroughly 
tanned, and no thin strip of raw material left through the 
center, which would cause the leather to be hard and tinny 
when dried out, the tanner must use plenty of the tanning 
material. No harm can come to the skins when they are 
left in the liquor for a long time, as it is absolutely neces- 
sary that they are thoroughly tanned, which can not be de- 
pended upon when they are rushed through the process in 
the shortest possible time. Some of the one-bath tannages 
are more astringent than others, and their effect upon the 
skins is to draw or contract the fibres. When this is 
liable to occur, common salt should be added to the liquor 
in the same manner and for the same reason that it is used 
in conjunction with bark, sumac or gambier liquors, — to 
hasten the tanning, to keep the skins open and plump, and 
to prevent the contraction of the fibres. One-bath liquors 
are used successfully in drums, paddle vats or vats with 
rockers. They are applicable to hides and skins of all 
kinds, and for making every kind of leather from kid-glove 
leather to sole leather. The two-bath processes are some- 
times preferred to the one-bath processes in the tanning of 
14 



210 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

goatskins for glazed kid, as they seem to split up the fibres 
and to produce a finer grain than the single-bath liquors. 
Yet very good kid leather is made with one-bath processes, 
with one point in their favor, that the leather so made is 
plumper than that produced by acid processes, which have 
no plumping nor filling properties whatever, but leave the 
skins thin and without plumpness. 

Tanolin (The Martin Dennis Process.) 

The best known of all one-bath chrome processes is the 
Dennis process, called Tanolin. This material is manu- 
factured under patents and sold to tanners outright in 
barrels, no licenses being required, and no royalties asked 
for. The use of Tanolin is very general among tanners. 
It is especially adapted to the making of soft, tough 
leather used in the manufacture of shoes and gloves. Its 
field of usefulness is not, however, restricted to these 
branches of the leather trade, but extends to heavy leather 
for harness, belts, and for any purpose where tough supple 
leather is required. It must prove interesting to practical 
tanners to know how this popular tanning material is pre- 
pared. The manufacture of the liquor is covered by patents. 
According to the patent specifications, a solution of common 
chloride of chromium is first prepared. This may be done by 
dissolving the pigment known as chrome green, or the com- 
mercial chrome oxide, in commercial hydrochloric acid 
which has been diluted with an equal bulk of water, care 
being taken to use more chromic oxide than the acid will take 
up, in order that the resulting liquor may be as nearly neutral 
as possible. About eight ounces of the commercial acid are 
sufficient to dissolve a pound of commercial oxide of chro- 
mium. To this solution of chloride of chromium is next 
added slowly and carefully a solution of a more powerful 
base, and for this purpose carbonate of sodium, or as it is com- 
monly called, sal soda, is preferred. This is added until 
rapid effervescence ceases. It usually takes about one-half 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 211 

pound of sal soda crystals to each pound of chrome oxide, 
dissolved as above. The liquor which results is a solution of 
basic chloride of chromium. It may be considered as con- 
sisting of the normal chloride of chromium and chromic 
oxide in soluble combination, and a quantity of chloride of 
sodium or salt formed by the union of a part of the acid, 
which was in combination with the chromium, with the 
sodium base of the carbonate of sodium. This sodium 
chloride in the liquor serves the very useful purpose of pre- 
venting the drawing or contracting of the fibres of the hides 
or skins that would result were it not present in the solu- 
tion. To the solution are also added a few pounds of com- 
mon salt to still further counteract the astringent effects of 
the chrome liquor. In the two-bath processes of tanning, 
the chromic acid is presented to the skins in the liquor of 
the first bath, which usually consists of a solution of bi- 
chromate of potash and muriatic acid. The chromic acid 
in the skins is reduced to chromic oxide by the action of 
some reducing agent, such as sulphurous acid or sulphur- 
etted hydrogen. Chromic acid is a very powerful oxidizing 
agent and does more or less injury to the hides or skins. It 
requires great care and caution to produce with these 
methods of tanning, leather that does not crack or break 
nor become hard and brittle after it is dried out. The 
principle of the Dennis process is to impregnate the hides 
or skins with the liquor in which the chromic oxide is held 
as an already reduced salt and not in combination with 
acids. In practice, the prepared hides or skins are treated 
to the tanning liquor in drums or paddle-vats ; and it is 
necessary that during the process they be frequently moved 
about in order that the action of the chromic salt may be 
uniformly distributed. The length of time consumed in 
making leather by this process varies according to the 
thickness of the hides or skins, and ranges from two hours 
up, depending also upon the method of tanning used, drum 
tanning being accomplished in much less time than when 



212 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

paddle-vats are used. The tanning of the hides or skins is 
accomplished in one bath ; thus considerable labor is saved. 
The skins are not exposed to the destructive action of 
chromic acid as in two-bath tanning, and this results in 
making the leather stronger and not , so liable to become 
papery or weak after it is dried out. There are no offensive 
or suffocating smells evolved ; and there is no danger of 
allowing the skins to remain in the liquors longer than is 
really necessary to tan them. The neutrality of the tan- 
ning liquor is of great assistance in the currying and fin- 
ishing of the leather after it is tanned. The hides or skins 
are prepared for this method of tanning in the manner em- 
ployed upon skins intended for any tannage, of which 
softness and smoothness of grain are important qualities. 
When the stock is tanned and is removed from the tanning 
bath, there is usually left in the liquor considerable tanning 
material. This should not be thrown away, but the skins 
may be put in and they will readily absorb the tanning 
material from the liquor. A new liquor can then be made 
and strengthened from time to time. In this way not a 
drop of the tanning material need be wasted, and the cost 
of tanning kept at the lowest point. When heavy hides 
are being tanned, it is good practice to suspend them on 
rockers in the vats so that the liquor may be gently agi- 
tated. If the hides are split after tanning, it is better to 
scour them with brush and slicker, or else mill them in a 
drum, and then return them to the liquor for at least 
twenty-four hours longer. Light skins, such as goat, 
sheep, calf and kangaroo skins, are preferably tanned in 
pin-mill drums, as less time is thus consumed than when 
vats are used. Such skins are tanned in drums in two or 
three hours. The plumpness of the leather may be in- 
creased by first treating the skins to a bath of alum or of 
sulphate of alumina and salt previous to the tanning in the 
chrome liquor. The solidity and firmness of the leather 
may be increased by treating the skins as they come from 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 213 

the tanning bath to a bath of whiting and salt, made up in 
the proportions of ten pounds of common salt and five 
pounds of bottled whiting, mixed up in fifty gallons of 
water. This liquor is put in a drum along with the skins, 
and the skins drummed for about half an hour, then the 
whiting and salt are entirely removed by washing with 
clear water. All traces of the whiting must be removed. 
Fairly soft water should always be used in making up the 
tanning bath. Hard water contains lime and magnesia, 
and these cause the tanning material to be precipitated 
from the solution and render it unfit for use. When a 
quantity of the liquor is used in vats for different packs of 
skins, it is advantageous to correct the liquor by adding to 
it slowly and carefully a solution of sal soda, one pound of 
sal soda to three gallons of water. This soda solution 
should be added until the tan liquor appears cloudy, and 
its effect is to render the tan liquor so sensitive that it will 
yield to the skins the whole of the tanning material. Tan- 
olin is made and sold by the Martin Dennis Chrome Tan- 
nage Co., Newark, N. J. 

The following process of chrome tanning produces leather that 
possesses the good qualities of both alum and chrome leather. 

In appearance, plumpness, fine grain, softness and feel it 
resembles the former, and in softness and because of its 
insoluble nature it resembles the latter class of leather. 
The process consists of three consecutive steps or stages. 
The first step in the process consists of tawing the skins in 
a solution of sulphate of alumina and salt. In the second 
step the sulphate of alumina is fixed upon the fibres of the 
skins by means of a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and 
after this has been accomplished another solution of sul- 
phate of alumina and salt is given to the skins, by means 
of which they are plumped, and the thinness that follows 
the use of hyposulphite of soda is overcome. When these 
things have been done, the skins are thoroughly alum 



214 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

tawed, and if desired, they may be taken after the last treat- 
ment with alumina and salt, and finished without further 
tanning. To complete the process and to chrome tan the 
skins, they are taken after the final application of alumina 
and salt and given the chrome liquor. In practice the 
process is carried out as follows : The skins, after drenching 
and washing, are drained and weighed. For every hun- 
dred pounds of skins a solution is prepared, consisting of 
three pounds of sulphate of alumina, and six pounds of salt 
in three gallons of water, boiled and allowed to cool. In 
this solution the skins are drummed for twenty minutes. 
Then for each hundred pounds of skins in the drum ten 
pounds of hyposulphite of soda are dissolved in three 
gallons of water and this liquor is poured into the drum, 
and the skins drummed therein for fifteen minutes. To 
finish the first part of the process a third solution is pre- 
pared by dissolving in three gallons of water two pounds of 
sulphate of alumina and three pounds of salt. This is 
added to the contents of the drum, and the skins again 
drummed for thirty minutes or longer, or until they have 
acquired the requisite degree of plumpness and fullness. 
They are then taken from the drum and washed lightly by 
being dipped in clear water, and are then thrown over 
horses and allowed to press and drain for some hours. The 
old liquor being drawn off from the drum, the skins washed 
off in clear water to remove from them any excess of tawing 
materials, are ready to receive the chrome liquor. This is 
used without the addition of water or acid of any kind. 
For the chrome tanning of the skins from three to six 
gallons of the concentrated chrome liquor are required, 
according to the weight of the skins, for each hundred 
pounds of skins. The chrome liquor is prepared as follows : 
From five to six pounds of chrome alum are dissolved in 
five gallons of water, without heat. To the solution of 
chrome alum are added from two and one-half to three 
pounds of sodium sulphate, and from twelve ounces to one 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 215 

pound of potassium or sodium acetate or its chemical 
equivalent. In a liquor thus prepared the skins are 
drummed for from thirty minutes to one hour, or until they 
have taken up all, or nearly all, of the liquor, and show 
thorough penetration of the same. At this point they will 
be found to be chrome tanned and insoluble in boiling 
water. The leather may next be taken from the drum and 
washed and finished in any manner desired in either colors 
or black, glazed or dull. When thick, heavy skins are 
being tanned, the quantity of chrome liquor used may be 
increased to six or seven gallons for each hundred pounds 
of skins. The sodium sulphate is the active agent in the 
solution, the sodium chloride or common salt being added 
to prevent merely the tightening or contracting of the fibres. 
The chloride may be omitted if the quantity of sulphate of 
sodium is increased by an amount equal to one-half the 
weight of the chloride as given in the above formula. In 
this process no free acids whatever are used. The skins are 
first tawed with alum and later it is treated with chromic 
oxide presented as an already reduced salt. Free acid in 
the solution added as an element, that is, other than as pro- 
duced by the decomposition of the chemicals employed in 
the presence of the skins, will retard, if not prevent, the re- 
action necessary to produce leather. For this reason the 
skins must be entirely free from acid and perfectly neutral 
when the process is begun. Pickled skins, such as sheep 
and lamb skins, must be freed from the acid used as a 
pickle, by being drenched in a sour bran and salt drench 
before they are treated. After the tanning is completed the 
skins should be allowed to lie in the liquor for some hours, 
or over night, and then either thrown over horses or laid 
out flat in piles for twenty -four hours in order to give the 
tanning material taken up by them time to thoroughly act 
upon the fibres. After this the leather is washed for twenty 
minutes in warm borax water and then in clear water for 
twenty minutes, then shaved, colored and finished. This 
process is patented by Geo. W. Adler, Philadelphia, Pa. 



216 PRACTICAL TANNING.' 

Skins may be tanned with a liquor composed of whiting, salt, 

chrome alum., saltpetre and muriatic acid, 
Either in drums or paddle vats. For this process they are 
prepared in the usual manner, and when tanned are very 
tough and flexible. In the preferred method of carrying 
out this process ten pounds of chrome alum, three pounds 
of saltpetre, six pounds of muriatic acid, fifteen pounds of 
salt and ten pounds of whiting are mixed with fifteen 
gallons of water. The whiting and salt are first mixed 
together at a temperature of about seventy degrees Fah., 
after which the other ingredients are added, and the mix- 
ture is then commingled with fifteen gallons of water. The 
skins are treated with this liquor in the usual manner. 
While the proportions of ingredients given above are the 
preferred ones, they may be changed considerably without 
changing the nature of the liquor or of the result. 

Another one-bath chrome process 
For which waterproof qualities are claimed is compounded 
in the following manner : Twelve pounds of chromic acid 
are dissolved in about six gallons of hydrochloric acid, the 
latter having a specific gravity of 1.146 and a hydrometer 
strength of 28.61. Fifty pounds of crystallized chrome 
alum are dissolved in about twenty gallons of water, with- 
out heat ; and seventy-five pounds of crystallized carbonate 
of soda are dissolved in about ten gallons of water. Those 
solutions being obtained, the solution of soda is added 
slowly to the chrome alum solution, the latter being con- 
stantly agitated by stirring. When the compound assumes 
a cloudy appearance, and a fine sparkling mist is seen rising 
to the top, the addition of the soda solution should be dis- 
continued and sufficient water added to bring the volume 
up to forty-four gallons. The next step is to thoroughly 
mix this compound of chrome alum and soda with the dis- 
solved chromic acid before described, gently stirring the 
mixture while the mixing is going on. Then the combined 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 217 

mixture should be allowed to stand and settle for twenty- 
four hours. The water in which the tanning is to take 
place should be heated to a temperature of eighty degrees 
Fah., and to every one hundred gallons of water one and 
one-half gallons of the concentrated tanning liquor are 
added, thus making a one and one-half per cent, liquor. 
The strength of the bath needs to be gradually increased 
during the treatment of the hides by the regular addition 
of more chrome liquor, in one-half gallon quantities, until 
the bath has had from four to five gallons of the concen- 
trated liquor added for every one hundred gallons of water. 
The heat and strength of the bath should be maintained 
during the operation, and the hides or skins constantly 
stirred about. An experienced tanner will have no trouble 
in telling when the stock is tanned, but a good rule is to 
watch the hides or skins carefully, and when the thickest part 
of the heaviest skin shows a deep greenish-blue appearance all 
through, the tanning is completed. When it has been seen 
that the hides or skins are sufficiently tanned, they are re- 
moved from the bath and washed in water to which borax 
has been added, in proportion of one ounce to twenty 
gallons of water. The time required to tan with this pro- 
cess varies considerably. Sheep-skins usually require about 
one hour, and goat-skins about one and one-half hours. 
Calf-skins are tanned in from two to four hours, and hides 
in about ten hours. Skins tanned by this process are 
adapted for a great variety of purposes, and especially 
where waterproof stock is desired, as the skins are not de- 
teriorated in any way by the treatment, but are left strong 
and pliable and susceptible of taking a high polish. The 
skins may also be tanned in drums. It usually requires 
about three gallons of liquor, prepared as described, to tan 
one hundred pounds of skins, weighed after drenching. 
After tanning, the skins are treated during the finishing 
process in the same manner as any chrome-tanned skins. 
This process is patented by Joseph W. Smith, Girard, Ohio. . 



218 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

A simple one-bath liquor 
May be prepared by the following recipe : Three pounds of 
bichromate of potash are dissolved in hot water, and half a 
gallon of strong hydrochloric acid is added, and then 
glucose little by little, heating if necessary, until the yellow 
liquor changes to a deep blue-green. About one and one- 
half pounds of glucose are generally required. The solution 
is made up with water to two gallons. The goods are 
started in a two per cent, solution of the above liquor and 
gradually strengthened up to a six or eight per cent, solu- 
tion. This liquor may also be used in drums and pene- 
trates light skins in a short time, after which they should 
lie for twenty hours in a pile and then be washed in warm 
borax water, followed by clear water. 

Another interesting one-bath tanning liquor is known as 
Chromine. 
This liquor is also made under patents, and sold outright to 
tanners, in concentrated form ready for use. The principle 
involved in this process is the tanning of the skins with a 
liquid compound containing normal chloride of chromium 
and sulphate of sodium with an organic acid, such as formic 
acid or acetic acid. These are the principal active agents in 
the liquor, and are held in such relation to each other in the 
solution that the chromium and sodium salts are each sever- 
ally capable of exerting its full tawing effects upon the skins. 
In carrying out the principle of the process a concentrated 
solution of the tawing liquor is prepared. This is done by 
first forming a compound of sulphate of potassium or of 
sodium with chromic acid by dissolving a given quantity of 
bichromate of potash or of soda in one and a half times its 
quantity by weight of sulphuric acid, mixed with double its 
volume of water. The chromic acid compound therein is 
then to be reduced to a sesqui-oxide by an organic reducing 
agent, and for this purpose sugar or alcohol may be used. 
To the resulting solution is then to be added a solution of 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 219 

carbonate of soda, whereby it is neutralized and sodium com- 
bined with it, the result being sodium sulphate and formate 
or acetate, chromic hydrate and chromium oxy carbonate, the 
last two forming a precipitate, and this precipitate is then 
to be dissolved in the presence of hydrochloric acid. 

The following are the proportions and method used in 
producing the results desired. Taking a given quantity of 
bichromate of potash or of soda, say five pounds, it is dis- 
solved in fully one and a half times that quantity by 
weight, (seven and one-half to eight pounds of sulphuric 
acid,) diluted with double the quantity by volume of water 
that there is of acid used ; and this chromic acid compound 
so admixed with sodium or potassium sulphate is then to 
be completely reduced to a chromic oxide. The formation 
of this can be readily perceived by the liquid assuming a 
dark green color. The quantities named require about one 
pound of white sugar or one and one-half pints of alcohol, 
added slowly to keep the temperature below the point of 
ebullition and until effervescence ceases. The solution is 
then to be rendered neutral and sodium sulphate formed 
therein by adding to the quantity named about twenty 
pounds of carbonate of soda dissolved in about seven and 
one-half gallons of water. This sodium carbonate solution 
must be added slowly until the liquor ceases to effervesce. 
The mixture is then allowed to stand several hours until 
precipitation of the chromium oxycarbonate contained 
therein is complete. The last step in the preparation of the 
solution consists of adding hydrochloric acid, in quantity 
enough only to split up or decompose and completely dis- 
solve all the precipitated chromium compound. For this 
purpose about six to seven pounds by weight of such acid 
will be sufficient for the quantities named, and twelve to 
twenty-four hours required for the purpose. Care must be 
taken that no more hydrochloric acid is used than is re- 
quired to accomplish the desired object. When prepared 
as described, and the quantities are equally proportioned 



220 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the liquor obtained will be of about twenty to twenty-three 
degrees Beaume', in density, and about sixty degrees Fah. 
of temperature, and from ten to twelve gallons of liquor in 
quantity. 

The skins to be tanned are submitted to a bath of this 
liquor diluted to an extent varying according to the char- 
acter of the skins, the length of time also varying for the 
same reason. Ordinarily the concentrated liquor should be 
diluted to an extent of three or four times its volume of 
water in order to reduce it to a hydrometric strength of five 
or six degrees. The skins take up the tanning material 
contained in the liquor in a very short time, the refuse 
liquor showing that all the salts have been absorbed. The 
tanner can readily determine when the process ts com- 
pleted by cutting into the thickest skin and noting the 
penetration of the liquor. The skins treated with this 
liquor become insoluble and perfectly tawed with a very 
fine and smooth grain surface. Pickled skins may be 
milled in salt water as usual, to remove the pickle from 
them, or they may be subjected in the pickled condition to 
this process. It is really immaterial whether the skins are 
milled in salt water or used in the pickled condition. The 
active salts in this liquor are the salts of chromium and 
sodium. These are in such relation to each other and to 
the organic acid combined with them that they are each 
severally capable of exerting their full effect as tawing 
agents, and each seems to modify the undesirable action of 
the other; i. e., the sodium sulphate qualifies the usual 
astringent effect of the chromium salts, and the chloride of 
chromium qualifies or reduces the usual opening or swell- 
ing effect of the sodium salt, while at the same time the 
normal chromium salt in the compound will, on contact 
with the skin substance, give up the hydrochloric acid with 
which it is combined and be precipitated as an oxide, the 
reaction taking place in the fibre of the skin, which results 
in the skins becoming tawed and insoluble and finishing 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP TANNING AND TAWING. 221 

into very soft and fine leather. A practical method of 
tanning light skins, such as goat, sheep and calf, with this 
one-bath process is carried out in the following manner : 
The skins as they come from the beam-house, washed and 
ready for tanning, are weighed, and for each hundred 
pounds a solution of sulphate of alumina and common salt 
is prepared, consisting of three pounds of the former and 
six pounds of the latter, dissolved in six gallons of water. 
In this liquor the skins are drummed for thirty minutes, 
or until they are full and plump. The skins can also be 
tanned direct from the washing, without the preliminary 
treatment with alumina and salt, if so desired. After the 
drumming in the solution of sulphate of alumina and salt, 
the concentrated tawing liquor is given to the skins, in 
quantity about six gallons for each hundred pounds of 
skins in the drum. The drumming in the liquor should 
be continued for two to three hours until the skins are com- 
pletely tanned, then they may be removed from the drum, 
washed in the usual way and finished. The process may 
also be carried out in vats, the quantity of liquor used be- 
ing about the same, and the skins paddled until they are 
tanned. This process is not all astringent, the grain of the 
skins remaining smooth and without any contraction what- 
ever. Chromine is manufactured under patents by The 
Eureka Tannage Co., Philadelphia, Pa. 

A liquor useful in one-bath chrome tanning that has been used 
to some extent is called Progress Tan Liquor. 

This is used in tanning skins in the following manner. 
After slating, wash the skins in a weak solution of muriatic 
acid, using about two pounds of acid in three hundred and 
fifty gallons of water for twelve hundred pounds of skins, 
weighed after slating. Process the skins in this acid liquor 
in a paddle-wheel for about thirty minutes. The tempera- 
ture of the liquor should be lukewarm. From this washing, 
the skins are placed in a drum, and to every hundred 



222 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

pounds of skins add from two and one-half to three and 
one-half pounds of sulphate of alumina, and from six to 
twelve pounds of salt. For soft skins use the smaller 
quantity, for hard skins the larger quantity of alumina 
and salt. The quantities of alum and salt may be varied 
between the lowest and the highest proportion, according 
to the nature of the skins. The sulphate of alumina 
and salt may be dissolved before using or they may be 
put into the drum in dry state. The skins should be 
drummed in this for from thirty minutes to one hour, 
and they should be free from stringiness when they are 
pulled out in the flank after drumming in the alumina and 
salt. When in this condition pour five gallons of the tan 
liquor to every hundred pounds of skins into the drum 
through the gudgeon while the drum is running. Then 
drum the skins in this liquor for three hours, or until they 
are tanned. 

When the skins have been drummed enough, the liquor 
runs from them colorless. Now take them from the drum, 
stretch them on horses and allow them to remain there and 
press until the next morning. Then strike them out and 
shave them. For very heavy skins, they should be taken 
after shaving, put back into the drum with the spent liquor 
from the first tanning. Allow one gallon of tan liquor for 
every hundred pounds of skins as they weighed originally, 
and drum them in this liquor for one and one-half hours. 
This completes tanning. A thorough washing is required, 
and this may continue for one hour, using running water ; 
then strike out the leather and proceed to stain, color and 
finish. The leather made in this way is tough and has a 
fine smooth grain, there being no contraction. Another 
method of using this liquor that produces salable leather, 
is to tan the skins direct from the drenches without the use 
of alum and salt, nor of muriatic acid. For one hundred 
pounds of pelt, weight to be determined after drenching 
and washing, from six to eight gallons of the tan liquor are 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 223 

used. The exact quantity best adapted for the stock must 
be determined by the tanner. The tan liquor may be 
mixed with twenty-four gallons of water. Of this, put six- 
teen gallons in the drum and run the skins for one-half 
hour, then put in a few more gallons and run the drum 
another half hour, then put in the remaining liquor and 
drum the skins long enough to thoroughly tan them, which 
ranges from two to five hours, according to the thickness 
of the skins. The whole of the prepared liquor may be 
put into the drum at once, and also less water may be used. 
After tanning, the leather should be washed until all traces 
of tan liquor have disappeared. Progress Tan Liquor is 
one of the specialties of the Wolffe Chemical Co., Philadel- 
phia, Pa. 

Vacrome 

Is the name given to a single-bath mineral tanning agent, 
by the use of which chrome leather is made in one-third of 
the time and with one-half the labor required in any two- 
bath process. This liquor is not astringent, and therefore 
it does not contract nor damage the grain and fibre of the 
skins. When any one-bath process is used, if after the 
stock is shaved it proves to be not uniformly tanned, it can 
be returned to the liquor and re-tanned in the same manner 
as with the use of vegetable tanning agents. Vacrome is 
made by the Vacuum Oil Co., Rochester, N. Y. 

In practice, this tanning material is used as follows : 
After the stock comes from the drench or wash-wheels, it 
should be placed in a drum with water at a temperature of 
sixty-five degrees, adding four pounds of salt for each one 
hundred pounds of stock, weighed as it comes from the 
beam-house. In this the stock is run for not more than 
five minutes. Then is added one gallon of the Vacrome for 
each hundred pounds of skins in the drum, and the drum 
run for thirty minutes. Then another gallon of tanning 
liquor is added and the stock drummed for thirty minutes 



224 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

then another gallon is added and the drumming continued 
for from one to two hours longer or until the stock is thor- 
oughly tanned. 

The stock should be left in the tanning solution after 
being tanned through for twenty-four hours, or it may be 
placed in a pile for the same length of time, thus permitting 
the salts held in solution to act upon the pelt, at the end of 
which time stock should be washed for thirty minutes in 
warm water at a temperature of one hundred degrees, and 
for thirty minutes in cold water, and it is then ready for 
the color bath. While there is no pickling before tanning 
nor washing in soda solutions after, yet washing for one 
hour preparatory to coloring will not remove any of the 
tanning matter. All tanning matter taken up by the stock 
is retained. Pickled sheep and lamb-skins are prepared 
for tanning by first wringing or pressing them to rid them 
of animal grease, then they are washed in warm salt water 
to soften them and to free them from surface grease. The 
pickle is next removed. For ten dozen medium-size sheep- 
skins use twenty-four quarts of salt and four pounds of 
whiting in water at a temperature of ninetj 7 - degrees. Run 
twenty minutes in a pin-wheel and then let skins remain 
in the bath without milling for one-half hour, after which 
take skins from the bath and throw them into a light sour- 
bran drench for half an hour, adding sufficient water to keep 
skins from swelling, after which wash them in clean salt 
water to remove all traces of the whiting. Precaution 
must be taken to remove all the whiting from the skins, 
otherwise they will be harsh and brittle after drying out, 
also plenty of salt must be used in washing to keep the 
skins from swelling. It is also necessary that all acid used 
in pickling should be removed from the skins before they 
are placed in the tanning liquor. Sheep-skins are tanned 
through in two and one-half hours, if all the grease and 
acid have been previously extracted. For three hundred 
pounds of skins, fifty gallons of water should be used for 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF TANNING AND TAWING. 225 

the bath, and two and one-half gallons tanning fluid for 
each hundred pounds of skins. When the tanning is 
done in paddle-vats, the liquor is fed more slowly, although 
the quantity is about the same. Twenty-four hours is the 
maximum time required with this process in paddle-wheel 
tanning. 

By the use of chrome-alum, liquors can be made that have 
given good results when used upon light skins. 

One formula calls for sixteen pounds of chrome-alum, 
one and one-half pounds of ordinary alum, and one-half 
pound of iron-alum dissolved in eighteen gallons of cold 
water. This requires considerable time, as the water must 
be cold No heat can be employed. Five pounds of com- 
mon washing-soda are separately dissolved in two gallons 
of water. After the alums have gone into solution, the 
soda-liquor is gradually added to the alum liquor, the latter 
being contantly stirred. Prepared in this way, about 
twenty-two gallons of stock liquor will result. This will 
tan from one hundred to one hundred and fifty pounds of 
skins The tannage is best accomplished in a drum. The 
prepared skins are entered, and to every one hundred 
pounds of skins five gallons of water are added and ten 
pounds of salt. About two pounds of alum may also be 
used In this solution the skins are drummed for thirty 
minutes, after which the tanning liquor as above prepared 
is added Two or three gallons may be added at a time at 
intervals of fifteen minutes, and the drumming continued 
for several hours until the skins are tanned. Then they 
are washed in the usual way, first with borax and water, 
and then with clear water for three-quarters of an hour, 
and are then struck out or pressed and are ready for fat- 
liquoring. 

Skins may also be tanned with a liquor prepared as follows : 
Ten pounds of chrome-alum are dissolved in ten gallons 
15 



226 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

of cold water. This requires some time, and the alum 
needs to be stirred about occasionally, or it may be hung in 
a basket in the water and dissolved in this way. Two and 
one-half pounds of ordinary washing-soda are separately 
dissolved in one gallon of water. The soda solution is then 
slowly stirred into the chrome-alum liquor. The tannage 
may be carried out in vats by adding three gallons of the 
liquor to eighty gallons of water, with seven pounds of salt. 
At intervals of one hour three gallons of the liquor are 
added, and the skins paddled until the strength is ex- 
hausted and the skins are tanned. In a drum, from two to 
three hours are required, and the ten gallons of liquor will 
tan one hundred pounds of skins. 



CHAPTER XI. 

DEER-SKINS. 

A very good method of removing the hair from deer- 
skins is to paint the skins on the flesh side with either a 
mixture of lime and sulphide of sodium or a clear solution 
of the latter article. The skins require a thorough soaking 
and softening in water before they are painted, in order to 
rid them of salt, dirt and blood. The strength of the sul- 
phide of sodium liquor is not arbitrary, but may vary from 
twelve to twenty-four degrees, tested by the hydrometer. A 
good liquor is one of about eighteen degrees. Before the 
lime is used it should be reduced to milk of lime by the 
use of hot water, and it should be, as well as the sulphide 
of sodium liquor, perfectly cold before being applied to the 
skins. When preparing a new depilating liquor, about 
one-half of a barrel of lime may be used in fifty gallons of 
hot water. After the lime becomes thoroughly dissolved 
and reduced to milk of lime, several pailfuls may be mixed 
with a barrel of the sulphide of sodium liquor. The deer- 
skins are spread out upon a smooth surface, and the mixture 
of lime and sulphide of sodium applied to the flesh side. 
It should be put on with a vegetable fibre brush or a swab 
of burlap and spread on evenly without running off. 

The skins are then folded up and placed in piles for 
some hours, or until the next day, when the hair will come 
readily off, and the skins can then be limed for a number 
of days in order to get the desired softness at the start. The 
painting of the skins and the removal of the hair should 
be done in a cool moist room, so that the skins will neither 
dry nor heat. After the hair has been removed from the 

( 227 ) 



228 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

skins, they should at once be put into clean cold water and 
left therein until they are to go into the liming process. 
In this way they will be safe from heating, drying out or 
spoiling. The object of liming the skins is to increase 
their softness and elasticity, qualities that are so much de- 
sired in glove leather. In making a new lime, two buckets 
of lime are slaked in about ten gallons of hot water. This 
quantity of lime will answer for from three hundred to four 
hundred skins. The skins should remain in the first lime 
for one day, then hauled out and the same quantity of 
lime added as was used in the first instance. This may be 
repeated for six or eight days and results in making the 
skins exceedingly soft and stretchy. 

The grain of the skins may be removed after the liming, 
either by shaving it off or by frizzing it off on a machine. 
After this is done, or if the grain is left on the skins, they 
are thoroughly drenched to rid them of the lime and to 
make them soft and clean. Any of the usual methods of 
drenching skins may be used. As the skins have been 
heavily limed, it is necessary to drench them thoroughly. 
The skins may be tanned in various ways. Oil tannages 
and the chrome processes make very good leather, also alum 
and napa tannages. 

The following process, although originally applied only to 
sheep-skins, produces good results upon deer-skins, 

As the leather it makes combines the qualities of softness 
and toughness, which allow the leather to be sewed into 
gloves without allowing the stitches to tear out. As the 
skins come from the beam -house, ready for tanning, they 
are treated with a solution composed, for two hundred skins, 
of the following ingredients : Twenty pounds of salt, 
thirty pounds of white rock potash and three hundred 
gallons of water. The skins may be left in the solution for 
about two hours, or they may be processed in a drum for 
twenty to thirty minutes, and are then wrung out dry and 



DEER-SKINS. 



229 



immersed in a solution composed as follows: Twelve 
pounds of hard soap and two gallons of neatsfoot oil in one 
hundred and fifty gallons of water. The skins require to 
be left in this solution long enough to become wet through, 
and are then removed and hung up and dried out. They 
are treated in this way, wetting in the liquor and drying 
out two or three times. After being thus treated and 
properly tawed, they are put, in the dry state, into clear 
water and washed in a thorough manner to remove all 
foreign matter from them, and in this moist condition are 
dried to produce leather of various colors, or they may be 
dried out without further treatment and will make a white 
leather. 

Another process that results in soft tough leather consists 
in subjecting the skins, as they come from the drenching 
and washing, to a liquor composed of two pounds of caustic 
soda, one pound of borax and sufficient water to cover the 
skins, say one hundred gallons. The quantities named 
are sufficient for one hundred and twenty average size 
skins. The skins are drummed in this liquor for one- 
half hour, and are then removed and hung up and dried 
out. The dried skins are next placed in a solution com- 
posed of five pounds of hard soap, one gallon of straits oil, 
one-half pound of caustic soda and seventy-five gallons of 
water. The skins require to be left in this solution until 
they have become wet through and soft, after which they 
are placed in a drum with some of the liquor and drummed 
therein for one-half hour, being then removed and dried 
out as before. The skins are next drummed again in part 
of the second solution and then hung up and dried out 
again. Sometimes this process needs to be repeated two or 
three times until satisfactory leather results. When they 
are dried out without further coloring, the skins are nearly 
white. They may be colored any shade or smoked, and 
will be found to be very soft, tough and strong. 

When the grain has been removed from the skins in 



230 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the beam-house, the skins may be satisfactorily tanned in 
the following manner : For two dozen skins of average size, 
a solution is prepared of one pound of alum, one and one- 
half gallons of water, one-half pound each of flour and 
oatmeal or one pound of either alone, with one gill of oil 
and enough water to make a total of three gallons of liquor 
for each two dozen skins. In this liquor the skins are 
drummed for about thirty minutes, after which they are 
allowed to drain and are then drummed in a liquor com- 
posed of one gill of ammonia, one-half bar of soap, one- 
half ounce of soda, one-half pound of salt and about two 
ounces of ochre, all boiled in two gallons of w 7 ater, until 
they are thoroughly dissolved, to which are added one-half 
pound of flour and one-half pound of oatmeal or one pound 
of either alone, mixed in one and one-half gallons of water. 
In this liquor the skins are drummed for thirty minutes, 
then dried out, staked and finished upon either side in the 
usual manner. 

The skins may be treated in the first liquor and then 
dried out and worked soft without the use of the second 
liquor. Still, in the majority of cases it is best to use the 
entire process, and when finished they bear a close resem- 
blance to castor glove leather. 

Deer-skins may also be satisfactorily tanned in a liquor 

Composed of the following articles in the proportions 
named : Seven pounds of alum, three pounds of glauber 
salt, four pounds of common salt, ten gallons of soft water, 
five pounds of ground sumac, three pounds of oak bark, 
one pound of ground nutgalls and four ounces of oil of 
vitriol. The alum, glauber and common salt, in the quan- 
tities named, are reduced to a fine powder by any suitable 
means and then dissolved by boiling in the ten gallons of 
water. The sumac, oak bark and nutgalls are then mixed 
together and boiled briskly for twenty minutes, more or 
less, then the mixture while hot is strained over the alum 



DEER-SKINS. 231 

and salts mixed together as has been stated ; the four 
ounces of oil of vitriol are then added and the liquor 
thoroughly stirred. In the liquor thus compounded the 
prepared skins are placed, the liquor being lukewarm, and 
the skins left therein for at least twenty-four hours. 
During the first few hours the skins may be stirred about, 
or they may be drummed in the liquor in the drum for one 
hour and then allowed to rest in the liquor for some hours. 
When the tanning is completed, the skins are removed from 
the liquor, and after being allowed to drip they are set out 
on both sides, a glass slicker being used for the grain side. 
A heavy coat of lard oil is then applied to both sides ; then 
the skins ure hung in a warm place until they become dry. 
This process in a short time produces very soft leather and 
at small expense. 

Tawing with sulphate of alumina. 

If a superior quality of alum-tawed leather is wanted, of 
full plump body and of fine texture, the skins may be 
tawed in the following manner : As they come from the 
beam-house and without pickling, they are weighed, and 
for each one hundred pounds of skins ready for tawing, 
three pounds of sulphate of alumina and six pounds of salt 
are dissolved in six gallons of water. This liquor is placed 
in a drum with the skins and the skins drummed for thirty 
minutes. Then to fix the tawing materials upon the fibres 
of the skins about ten pounds of hyposulphite of soda are 
dissolved in five gallons of water, and this solution poured 
into the drum and the drumming continued for another 
thirty minutes. Then to overcome the thinness of the 
skins caused by the hyposulphite of soda, another solution 
of sulphate of alumina and salt is added. This may 
consist of two pounds of alumina and three pounds of salt 
dissolved in four gallons of water. This solution plumps 
the skins and completes the process. The skins, after 
being taken from the drum, are thrown over horses and 



232 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

allowed to press and drain for some hours, after which 
they are rinsed off by being dipped into water, and dried 
out and finished the same as chrome-tanned skins. Egg 
yolk and neatsfoot oil may be used to soften the leather, 
a heavy coat of the oil being applied to the flesh side. 
The softness of the skins is largely produced by the tannage 
and the nature of the articles used in nourishing the leather 
after it is tanned. Olive oil produces good results when 
used with egg yolk, but it is too expensive for general 
common use. The greases should be thoroughly absorbed 
by the skins before they are dried out. Fat-liquors com- 
posed of soap, oil and egg-yolk give great softness and 
strength to the leather and do not streak or spot the whitest 
or most delicately-tinted leather. When the skins are 
colored in drums, the fat-liquoring should not be done 
until after the coloring. A mixture of flour and water 
is sometimes added to the fat-liquor for the purpose of in- 
creasing the fullness and plumpness of the leather. A 
tannage of salt, alum, flour and oil produces very soft and 
elastic leather. The tawing is done the best in drums, and 
the skins drummed in the paste of salt, alum, flour and 
oil until all the ingredients are absorbed, then they are 
dried out, dumped back and finished in the usual manner. 
All excess of tawing materials should be removed before 
the leather is colored, as this has much to do with getting 
clear and uniform shades. 

An old-fashioned and very simple method of tanning deer-skins 

Consists of washing the skins in the usual way, and after 
they have been well and heavily limed, they are drenched 
in a sour-bran drench. After liming, and before drenching, 
the grain is shaved off, and after washing and drenching, 
the skins are well drained; they are given heavy coats of 
oil on both the grain and flesh sides, rolled up for a few 
days and then hung up and dried out. After the skins 
become dry they should be washed in warm soap-suds and 



DEER-SKINS. 233 

the soap-suds left in the skins, and the leather dried out 
again. During the drying, the skins should be worked 
until they become thoroughly soft and dry. Treated in this 
way, the skins become as soft as chamois. The oil may be 
driven into the skins by means of mills, and the work thus 
hastened and better results secured. 

The drying of the leather should take place in a moder- 
ately warm room, so as not to parch the skins, and while 
drying they should be worked occasionally, so that the 
drying and softening will be accomplished at the same 
time. 

The chrome methods of tanning seem especially adapted to 

deer-skins, 

As they produce good, tough and yet very soft leather. 
Before being chrome-tanned, the skins require a very thor- 
ough liming and drenching, and after tanning they are 
given more fat-liquor than skins intended for shoe purposes. 
Dirty limes and dirty soaks are fatal to the best results 
in the leather. It is essential that all the lime be gotten 
rid of before the skins are tanned ; the more thoroughly the 
skins are reduced, the softer will be the finished leather. 
After drenching, the skins may be pickled in a solution of 
sulphuric acid, salt and water, or they may be tanned with- 
out pickling, by being tanned at once in the chrome liquor. 
When they are tanned without pickling, it is good practice 
to drum them in a solution of sulphate of alumina and 
salt, using about three pounds of the former and six pounds 
of the latter, dissolved in six gallons of water, for every one 
hundred pounds of skins. The skins may be drummed in 
this liquor for three-quarters of an hour and then given 
the chrome liquor. When convenient to do so, the skins 
should be thrown over horses, after the drumming in 
alumina and salt, for twenty-four hours before they are 
tanned in the chrome liquor. In drum tanning, three 
gallons of concentrated tanning liquor are usually required 



234 PKACTICAL TANNING. 

for every one hundred pounds of skins, although the quan- 
tity varies. Some liquors must be used in quantity, five 
or six gallons for every hundred weight of stock. A drum- 
ming for three hours in the chrome liquor will cause the 
skins to be well struck with the liquor, and after this they 
should lie in the liquor one day, in order that the salt& 
taken up by them may have time to exert their full tawing 
powers upon the skins. After this the skins should be 
washed for about twenty minutes in borax water and then 
for twenty minutes in clean water. This washes out all 
the salt, alum and tanning liquor and leaves the skins in 
right condition for coloring and finishing. 

A good method of chrome-tanning the skins 

Consists of pickling the skins as they come from the process 
of drenching in a solution of salt, sulphuric acid and water, 
made up of two and one-half quarts of the acid and sixty 
pounds of salt for one hundred skins. In this pickle the 
skins may remain six hours, and are then removed and 
allowed to drain well before tanning. Then the pickled 
skins are placed in a drum with a solution of glauber salt> 
composed of one pound of the salt dissolved in eight gallons 
of warm water for every one hundred pounds of skins. 
The skins are drummed in this liquor for fifteen minutes. 
Then the liquor is drained out of the drum arid replaced by 
a solution of common salt, ten pounds of salt in eight 
gallons of water for each one hundred pounds of skins. In 
this the skins are drummed for five minutes, after which 
the chrome liquor is added in quantity about three gallons 
for each one hundred pounds of skins. It should be added, 
a gallon at a time, at intervals of one-half hour, and the 
skins drummed therein for three hours. One-half pound 
of bicarbonate of soda is next dissolved in one gallon water 
and added to the contents of the drum and the drum run for 
one-half hour longer, after which the tanning should be 
complete, although the skins should be allowed to lie in the 



DEER-SKINS. 235 

liquor over night, and be then thoroughly washed for at 
least thirty minutes. 

In order that the skins may take the colors right, the 
skins must be perfectly neutral and clean. This is accom- 
plished by the washing ; and borax is a good article to use 
to accomplish the object, as it not only removes the acids, 
but leaves the skins soft and smooth. When acid is left in 
the leather, especially when a two-bath process of tanning 
is used, it works upon the oils and fat-liquors and causes a 
mouldy and sticky appearance in the leather ; also causes 
the leather to become hard and papery after being finished 
for a time. In addition it weakens the strength of the 
fibers and causes the leather soon to wear out. 

Deer-skins may also be very nicely tanned by any of the two- 
bath processes 

That have been already described. The important point 
to be observed in using the two-bath processes is to be sum 
that the chrome liquor of the first bath has penetrated 
every fibre of the thickest skin before the stock is placed in 
the second bath. The first bath may be applied to the 
skins in a drum, and the second bath in a paddle vat. 
After the skins are tanned in either one-bath or two-bath 
processes, they may be washed thoroughly and left for a 
few hours in a warm bath of sumac. This leaves the skins 
almost white, and if they are to be colored fancy shades, the 
sumac acts as a mordant. 

The skins, as they come from the tanning liquor, should 
be very thoroughly washed and then the surplus water 
struck or pressed out of them before they are colored and 
dried out. After coloring, the skins should be again washed 
off and pressed and then fat-liquored. The quality of the 
leather largely depends upon the materials used in greasing 
the leather after it is tanned. Emulsions of soap and oil 
are generally used and impart great strength, softness and 
fineness to the leather. A point of importance is that the 



236 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ingredients of the fat-liquor must be thoroughly combined 
with each other to get the best results. A very good fat- 
liquor for glove leather is made of ten pounds of Palermo 
fig soap or another suitable potash one, four gallons of neats- 
foot oil and ten pounds of egg-yolk in fifty gallons of water. 
The soap is first boiled in about ten gallons of water, then 
the oil is cut with a few ounces of sal soda or borax and 
mixed with the boiled soap. Cold water is next run in 
until the temperature is about seventy-five degrees, then the 
egg-yolk is added and the mixture applied to the skins in a 
drum at a temperature not less than ninety degrees Fah. 
The fat-liquor should be added, a gallon or two at a time, 
until it is all in, and then the leather drummed in it for not 
less than thirty minutes or until the grease has been all ab- 
sorbed by the leather and nothing but water is left behind. 
After the fat-liquoring, the skins should be laid in piles or 
thrown over horses for some hours to enable the grease to 
become thoroughly incorporated with the leather before it 
is dried out. 

The best results follow when the skins are colored before 
being fat-liquored. The drum method of coloring is gen- 
erally preferred, as it produces more uniform results and 
takes up less time than other methods. For mordants, 
sumac and fustic are generally used. 

A somewhat crude process of tanning deer-skins, 

In use among the Indians, who are noted for making buck- 
skins as soft and strong as velvet, is carried out as follows : 
Take a skin, either green or well soaked, and flesh it clean, 
then unhair in any suitable manner. Then remove the 
grain and prepare the skin for tanning by drenching and 
washing. Take the brains of the animal, dry them gently 
by the fire, put them into a cloth and boil them until they 
are soft, cool off the liquid until bloodwarm with water 
sufficient to soak the skin in, and soak the skin until it is 
soaked thoroughly with the liquor, and then wring it out 



DEER-SKINS. 237 

as dry as possible ; wash in strong soap-suds, rub dry and 
smoke with wood smoke. Instead of brains, oil or lard may 
be used, and the skin soaked therein for six hours, then 
dried out. 

When deer-skins are to be oil or chamois tanned, 

They should be very thoroughly limed from eight to ten 
days, and after unhairing, the grain should be removed by 
any suitable machine or means. A further liming for a 
few days after the graining is an advantage, as it makes the 
skins more elastic and porous. Old lime liquors produce 
the best results, provided they are kept clean, as they make 
the fibres of the skin very soft and fine and free from the 
harshness that new fresh lime produces. 

To remove the lime from the skins, a manure bate may 
be used, followed by a bran drench or a drench of lactic 
acid. The manure process of bating makes the skins very 
soft and stretchy, but it is best to combine it with some 
other drench, so that the skins may be entirely freed of all 
lime without injury. The manure bate, however, is not 
necessary, as good leather can be made by merely washing 
the skins in a warm lactic acid bath in a drum, made up 
of one gallon of acid in one hundred gallons of warm water 
90° F. After bating and drenching, the skins should be 
washed off and are then ready for tanning in oil. 

Before the skins are treated with oil, they should be 
pressed in a hydraulic press, in order to rid them of all 
surplus and unnecessary water, thus making them as dry 
as possible and still retaining moisture. They should then 
be given a thorough beating with machinery especially 
constructed for the purpose, in order to soften them, after 
which they are sprinkled with cod-liver oil and are again 
beaten, in order to force the oil into the leather. The best 
grade of New Foundland cod oil is considered the best for 
the purpose. The process of oiling and beating the skins 
is repeated two or three times, or until they have lost their 



238 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

original odor and have acquired a mustard color. After 
the oiling and beating process is completed, the skins are 
made to undergo a process of heating. By this process, the 
oxidation of the oil, which was commenced during the pre- 
vious process, is completed by the fermentation that takes 
place in the skins. The heat is generated spontaneously. 
The skins must be watched very closely and frequently 
turned over. When the heat is allowed to rise to a high 
temperature, the leather is seriously damaged. The heat 
as generated destroys all organic matter in the skins. The 
highest temperature allowable is 140 degrees F. This pro- 
cess of heating is a most delicate operation, and upon its 
being properly done depends the success of the leather. 

When insufficient heat is generated, the leather rots ; 
when too much heat is produced, it becomes dissolved. 
When the fermentation ceases and the skins are no longer 
susceptible to heating, they are treated to remove the oil. 
This is done by washing the leather in hot water and then 
subjecting it to a hydraulic press. The grease that is 
squeezed out in this way is degras, largely used by curriers 
of leather. The surplus oil may also be removed by wash- 
ing the skins in a solution of soda ash, which causes the 
grease remaining to saponify. The saponified oil removed 
by pressure is neutralized with sulphuric acid and becomes 
the oil known as sod oil. A certain proportion of the oil 
is, of course, allowed to remain in the skins, so as to give 
them softness. The finishing process consists of drying, 
working out and smoothing down all unevenness on the 
surface. 

The skins may be bleached by being sprinkled with 
water and exposed to the sun, or by treatment with a weak 
solution of permanganate of potash, followed by a treat- 
ment with diluted sulphuric acid, or the leather may be 
treated with sulphurous acid in the form of gas. 

Methods of handling the skins vary. In some instances 
the skins, instead of being laid in piles to ferment, are 



DEER-SKINS. 239 

hung up in warm closed rooms or ovens, which is less dan- 
gerous and produces a better color. 

Very soft tough leather may be made of deer-skins 
By first treating them to a solution made up of nine pounds 
of alum, six pounds of salt, twenty pounds of wheat flour 
■and twelve pounds of egg yolk, thoroughly mingled to- 
gether in twelve gallons of warm water, and used for each 
one hundred pounds of skins at a temperature of 90 degrees. 
The skins are drummed in this liquor for thirty minutes, 
■and then hung up and dried out. Instead of twelve 
pounds of egg yolk, six pounds of the same and six pounds 
of olive oil may be used. After being left in the dry state 
for some weeks to cure, the skins may be worked out soft 
and finished without further treatment, or they may be 
washed in warm water and then tanned in a one-bath 
chrome process. Oil-tanned or chamois leather may also be 
made by passing the prepared skins (after bating, washing 
and pressing) through a twenty-five per cent, solution of 
Turkey-red oil. This may be accomplished by having the 
solution warm and passing the skins through the same, or 
by treating them with the solution in a drum. After the 
-treatment with oil, the skins are dried out and placed in a 
heap in a moderately warm room and covered up for a day 
or two. They are then hung up in the air and allowed to 
dry slowly, after which they are again treated with the 
soluble oil in the same manner as at first, again laid in a 
heap, dried out again, and then washed in a weak solution 
of borax or other alkali. By drying and working, the 
skins are made very soft and completely oil tanned. 

The results may be changed and modified by greater or 
less concentration of the oil solution ; by higher temper- 
ature in drying and by a greater number of applications of 
the oil. The skins may also be tanned by combining the 
oil with the salts of alumina. The preferred method of 
doing this is to steep the prepared skins in a solution con- 



240 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

taining preferably fifteen per cent, of the Turkey-red oil, 
and then drying them out. The operation may be repeated, 
and then the regular method of tanning with the alumina 
salts proceeded with in the usual way. 



CHAPTER XII. 

PATENTED METHODS OF DEPILATING. 
* 

METHODS OF USING NEW XXX DEPILATORY, PATENTED. 

In addition to sulphide of sodium, used for the purpose 
of removing hair and wool from the hides and skins and 
preparing them for tanning, there is on the market a pat- 
ented depilatory, known as New XXX Depilatory. This 
material is a very satisfactory article for both wool-pullers 
and tanners to use, and leather that has been treated with 
it is characterized by great toughness, pliability and fine 
close grain. New XXX Depilatory is used upon the 
various classes of hides and skins in the following manners : 
The depilatory crystals should first be dissolved into a 
liquid with boiling water or steam ; being a compound, the 
material is simply reduced with hot water and not allowed 
to settle, but the whole liquor is used, as the settlings are a 
most valuable part of the preparation, forming a slight 
carrying body, which adheres to the skins and will not gum 
or injure the wool, but on the contrary makes it clean, soft 
and silky, equal to sweated wool. The strength of the 
solution should be for salted skins, 12 to 24 degrees Beaume"; 
thin open wool skins, 14 to 18 degrees ; thick heavy merino 
and bucks, 18 to 24 degrees ; milk lambs, 18 to 24 degrees ; 
used upon goat and kid skins at the same strengths as upon 
sheep and lamb-skins. The strength, however, need never 
be greater than just sufficient to start the wool or hair ; if 
applied stronger than this, no injury results to the skins, 
the material is merely wasted. 

The skin should never be allowed to heat before or after 
treatment, nor in any stage of the process. Salted or dried 
16 ( 241 ) 



242 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

skins should be soaked from twenty. four to sixty hours, and 
after washing and breaking thoroughly, should be well 
drained of water or extracted before painting with depila- 
tory. The wool or hair usually starts in a few hours after 
painting, and it is well to pull or unhair promptly, say 
the next day. Milk or young lamb and kid-skins on which 
the depilatory is used full strength, shpuld be pulled as 
soon as the wool or hair starts, aud immediately put into 
clean, cold water and then limed very lightly from six to 
eighteen hours. All slats, after pulling and unhairing, 
should be immediately put into cold water, to which some 
depilatory has been added ; in this the skins are safe for a 
good while, and in no danger of heating, pricking or spoil- 
ing. No depilatory-treated skin can be injured so long as 
the skin is kept moist and not allowed to dry out or be- 
come hard. The first lime can be half renewed for each 
batch of skins by adding one bucketful of lime for every 
four hundred skins, and should always be kept clean and 
sweet, and only used once ; and the slats may remain in 
this lime over night or from twelve to fifteen hours in 
warm weather, and from twelve to thirty-six hours in cold 
weather. 

The second lime should be made entirely fresh, using 
about two buckets of lime to every four hundred skins. 
The slats can remain in this lime from one to two days in 
hot weather, and two to four days in cold weather, then 
they will be sufficiently limed for ordinary purposes. If 
they are to be tanned without pickling, a little more lime 
may be necessary and will do no harm ; if high-limed 
stock is desired, a third, and even a fourth lime may be 
used. It will be found advantageous to pull the slats out 
daily while liming in case still limes are used, and it should 
always be borne in mind that the stronger the solution of 
depilatory is, and the less it is washed out before liming, 
the weaker and less liming are required. After the skins 
are taken out of the lime vats, they should be washed in 



PATENTED METHODS OF DEPILATING. 243 

clean cold water and are then ready for fleshing or the 
drench, out of which, work on the grain side and trim, put- 
ting them again into clean water as fast as worked, and 
from this water flesh them well on the beams or machine. 

In the treatment of light hair skins, such as goat and 
kangaroo-skins, when it is not desired to save the hair, the 
skins can be soaked and softened, and then put into a 
liquor made up of from ten to fifteen pounds of depilatory 
to every one hundred gallons of water in the vat. The 
depilatory should all be dissolved and the liquor well 
stirred up before the skins are put in. To keep the skins 
in a solution prepared in this manner for twenty-four 
hours, with occasional stirring about, results in reducing the 
hair to pulp, which can be easily removed from the skins 
by washing them for a few minutes in clean cold water. 
The mixing of lime with the depilatory is not recom- 
mended, as the stock is not quite so soft as when the depil- 
atory is used alone. In case dry skins do not get thor- 
oughly soaked and softened before they are put into the 
solution of depilatory, they may remain in the liquor from 
twenty-four to forty-eight hours, according to strength of 
the liquor and condition of the skins until they are thor- 
ough^ soft and plump. No lime should be applied until 
the skins are completely softened. After the skins are 
washed to remove the dissolved hair, they may be lightly 
limed for a few days and then fleshed and drenched. 

If it is desired to save the hair, the skins should be 
soaked in the usual way and then the water extracted by 
means of a hydro-extractor, or by the skins draining thor- 
oughly. Then they may be painted with the solution of 
depilatory, at a strength of eighteen degrees, each skin 
then folded up, flesh side in, and allowed to lie until the 
next day, then the hair may be easily rubbed off, the skins 
washed and limed for a few days. Any one of the well- 
known methods of drenching skins after liming may be 
used. Manures are disagreeable and somewhat risky. 



244 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Lactic acid and some of the chemical bates are safe and 
cheap. Bran m&j also be used with good results when it is 
properly applied. For the finer grades of skins it is some- 
times necessary to work them thoroughly upon the grain 
after drenching to remove all lime and impurities and then 
to wash them in warm water, when they will be ready for 
pickling or tanning. It is always good practice to handle 
the skins promptly and to allow no delay to take place be- 
tween the operations, especially in hot weather. The limes 
should be kept sweet and clean and the skins handled fre- 
quently and carefully drenched, as it is during these pro- 
cesses that the character of the leather is made. 

When New XXX Depilatory is used upon hides intended 
for sole leather, the unhairing should take place as 
promptly as possible and in such a manner as not to affect 
the weight of the hides, nor to remove substance and impair 
the strength of the leather. The usual method employed 
is, after the hide is soaked, it is spread out on a smooth 
surface, hair uppermost. If no value is placed on the hair, 
the hair side is painted with depilatory, used either clear or 
mixed with lime, well-slaked lime, three parts, depilatory 
liquor about eighteen degrees strength, one part. The 
lime should be well slaked, and the depilatory crystals 
dissolved before being mixed. To apply the same, a vege- 
table fibre or tampico brush or swab made of burlap or 
bagging may be used. 

After the mixture has been applied evenly over the hide, 
the leather should be doubled up carefully and covered up 
so as to exclude the air and prevent the drying of the 
paste. If the hair is to be saved, the hides should be 
painted on the flesh side and the hair kept clean. The 
hides should be kept in a cool damp place until the hair 
starts, then opened out, washed in clean cold water and un- 
haired ; then fleshed and the grain worked and washed 
when the hides are ready for tanning. 

The unhairing can be done another way. A vat is filled 



PATENTED METHODS OF DEPILATING. 245 

with water, and from one-half to threerfourths lime, and 
one-fourth to one-half dissolved depilatory liquor, eighteen 
or twenty degrees strength, added thereto and well mixed. 
Then the hides are thrown in and left in the liquor over 
night or from one day until the next. The use of lime is 
not necessary ; a liquor of nothing but depilatory crystals 
of a strength of from five to ten degrees may be used. In 
this the hides may remain until they are thoroughly soft 
and the hair comes off readily. All tanning operations are 
the same as sweated or limed hides, except that slightly 
stronger liquors are required. It must be mentioned here 
that only hides intended for heavy leather should be treated 
in the above manner. The hair is lost, but this loss is more 
than made up by the extra quality and increased weight 
gained in the leather, the superior fine close grain, exceed- 
ing toughness and pliability and great saving of time and 
labor. 

For upper, belting, harness, enameled and patent leather, 
also calf-skins, the hides or skins may be painted on the 
grain or flesh side and washed or unhaired as soon as the 
hair becomes loosened, which will be in from twelve to 
twenty-four hours, depending upon the thickness and con- 
dition of the hides or skins, and the temperature and 
strength of the depilatory liquor. If no value is placed 
upon the hair, the vat method may be used. When it is 
desired to save the hair it should be promptly and well 
washed and spread out to dry as soon as convenient after 
being taken off. Dry foreign hides, kips, etc., must be 
brought to natural condition of softness by thorough soak- 
ing in water, fulling and stretching. This work can be 
greatly hastened and facilitated by dissolving and adding 
to the soaks about one-eighth of an ounce of depilatory for 
each hide or skin to be soaked. 

By painting the hides or skins as has been described, 
and after unhairing, a further liming or swelling may be 
considered necessary for easier fleshing, scraping, beaming 



246 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

or splitting. This can be done by means of depilatory- 
water alone, which can be made new, or the water the 
painted hides have been washed in after unhairing can be 
saved for the purpose, or weak clean limes, as for goat 
and sheep-skins, can be used. But in any case the liquor 
should be well stirred and mixed before the hides are put 
in. The strength of the liquor can be reduced or increased 
as circumstances require. The proportion of depilatory 
necessary for liming and swelling purposes is about one to 
one and one-half ounces for each hide ; one-half to three- 
fourths of an ounce for each kip ; and one-fourth to three- 
eighths of an ounce for each calf-skin. If the water is 
hard, a little more may be used. The swelling and liming 
are usually completed in from one to four days, depending 
upon the nature and condition of the hides or skins, the 
strength of the liquor and the weather and temperature 
of the limes. 

All hides intended for splitting after unhairing, can be 
plumped or swelled much better with depilatory water, or 
with clean well slaked lime with depilatory water added, 
from one-fourth to three ounces of depilatory for each hide, 
depending on size and thickness. It will require from one 
to five days. The tanner must use his judgment as to 
these matters, and if the right results are not obtained on 
first trial, something has been done wrong. It is also 
important that the hides or skins be opened out, examined 
and handled daily ; the scraping, fleshing and shaving can 
be done immediately after unhairing or after swelling. 
Any stray hairs that may remain can easily be removed 
when cleaning the grain after swelling. A thorough clean- 
ing of the grain is generally superfluous, it being usually 
smooth and clean, as nothing touches it to make it un- 
clean. A slight washing in warm water is sufficient to 
cause the stray hairs to come off. For some kinds of stock 
an oat straw or bran drench will tend to soften and improve 
the grain. 



PATENTED METHODS OF DEPILATING. 247 

If no value is placed on the hair, the painting of hides, 
kips, calf-skins and other skins intended for tough upper 
leather may be dispensed with, and no lime need be used. 
From twelve to forty-eight ounces of depilatory dissolved 
and added to every fifteen gallons of water in the vat, 
may be used. According to strength of this liquor the 
hides or skins will unhair in two or three days and will be 
sufficiently swelled to be fleshed, beamed and split. The 
time can be increased or shortened by using more or less 
depilatory in the water. The glue stock obtained is just 
as valuable as from limed or sweated hides, but should be 
limed before it is used. 

The unequal thickness of horse-hides makes them par- 
ticularly difficult to unhair and swell sufficiently for splitting, 
and to overcome this a depilatory liquor of eighteen degrees 
Be\ may be used on the fore part, and a liquor of twenty-four 
degrees upon the hind part, used either clear or mixed 
with lime. After unhairing, the hides may be limed for 
a few days in weak clean limes, the length of time of liming 
being reduced fully one-half. The subsequent treatment 
is the same as usually employed. Hog and alligator-skins 
are limed and treated in the same manner as horse and 
other hides. Patented depilatories are made and sold by 
Messrs. Stone, Timlow & Co., of New York City. 

An interesting process for preparing hides and skins 
for tanning, 
Invented and patented by the Messrs. John and Edward 
Pullman, of London, England, is based upon the use of 
solutions of caustic soda and calcium chloride, in place of 
lime. This process is intended to do away with the old 
liming process. It consists of two baths. In the first bath 
the hides or skins are saturated with caustic soda. This is 
acted upon by calcium chloride of the second bath, and the 
union of the two chemicals forms calcium hydrate or lime, 
and salt in the interior of the hides or skins. The time of 



248 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

preparing the hides or skins is greatly shortened, it being 
possible to accomplish in four hours what by the old 
method required ten days. More exact liming is obtained 
because definite weights of raw skins may be acted upon by 
previously-determined quantities of caustic soda and cal- 
cium chloride. The salts formed in the skins are very 
soluble and readily removed ; and as a consequence less 
bating and drenching are required than in the older method 
of liming. The process may be reversed by first using the 
bath of calcium chloride and then applying to the skins 
saturated with the same, the caustic soda solution. 

The hides or skins to be treated by this process must first 
be soaked in a putrid or foul soak. The object of this is 
to introduce a sort of bacterial action necessary to loosen 
the hair. After the skins or hides become thoroughly soft- 
ened in the soak water, they are placed in a drum with a 
solution of caustic soda, from one to one and one-fourth per 
cent, of the soda being used. In this solution the stock is 
treated in the drum for three hours, more or less, according 
to thickness, and then taken from the drum and allowed to 
drain for some time, after which it is replaced in the drum 
with a one and a half per cent, solution of calcium chloride, 
in which it is drummed for from one-half to one hour. 

When vats are used, more time is consumed than when 
drums are employed. The first bath usually requires forty- 
eight hours, and the hides or skins are handled two or three 
times. In the second bath they remain a similar length of 
time and are also handled once or twice. The unhairing is 
done in the usual way. The addition of a small quantity 
of sulphide of sodium to the caustic soda solution causes 
quicker loosening of the hair, in the case of skins upon 
which the lime or caustic alkali in solution possesses a 
deleterious action, the skins may be submitted to the action 
of a sufficiently strong solution of the calcium chloride 
until they are saturated with it, and they may then be 
painted upon the flesh side with the caustic solution, so that 



PATENTED METHODS OF DEPILATING. 249 

by penetration into the skins a perfect and intimate liming 
results without contact with or injury to the fur, hair or 
wool. This method is necessary in preparing sheep pelts 
for pulling. When this form of treatment is employed, 
the strength of the calcium chloride may be about two per 
cent, and the strength of the caustic soda solution from 
three-fourths to one per cent. 

A mixture of sulphide of sodium and chalk or whiting has 
been proposed for use in unhairing 

Skins and preparing them fortanning. The composition may 
consist of sulphide of sodium, three parts by weight ; chalk 
or whiting, one part ; and water in quantity of eight gallons, 
more or less. The sulphide of sodium, in quantity about 
three ordinary bucketfuls, is first dissolved in water to ob- 
tain a solution of a strength varying from two to six degrees, 
Baume test, the strength varying according to to the nature 
of the hides or skins being treated. The demulcent, chalk 
or whiting is mixed with water, in quantity about eight 
gallons to one bucketful of chalk. This mixture is then 
added to the previously-prepared sodium sulphide solution. 
The solution with the demulcent in suspension is then 
introduced into an open vat or vessel provided with means 
for agitating the same, as for instance a paddle vat. 

The hides or skins are introduced into the solution, which 
is thoroughly agitated for two or three hours. The hides 
•or skins are then permitted to remain at rest in the solu- 
tion for a comparatively long period, say ten to twelve 
hours, when the solution is again agitated. During the 
second agitation the solution is gradually diluted by the 
addition of fresh water until it contains no matter in solu- 
tion or suspension, but is substantially free from the same. 

By mixing with the sulphide of sodium a demulcent such 
as chalk or whiting, a liquid compound is provided, in the 
use of which the caustic nature of the sulphide is diminished 
and made far less energetic in its action upon the raw 



250 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

hides or skins. By reason of its mild chemical action, the 
liquor readily softens the gristle, swells the fibre, as well as 
effects speedy dissolution of such animal matter as it is desir- 
able to remove. Skins treated according to this process are 
said to be ready for tanning without further manipulation 
or treatment, and when tanned have fine, smooth grain and 
firm, plump and mellow feel. Patented by H. Holmes,. 
Philadelphia, Pa. 

The following described process is known as the Pierson and 
Moor process, 

And is also a patented one. As will be seen by the descrip- 
tion, it is new and useful for the purpose of treating skins 
and preparing them for leather. By this method of treat- 
ment, which is simple, expeditious and comparatively inex- 
pensive, the skins of goats and kangaroos, and those of 
sheep from which the wool has been pulled, pelts and other 
skins and hides in the hair or raw condition, may be pre- 
pared for and delivered to the tanner in a few hours after 
the proccess has been commenced. In carrying out the 
process, a hot solution of sulphide of sodium is prepared. 
For example, twenty-five pounds of sulphide of sodium 
are placed in a tank or other suitable vessel and water in- 
troduced at a temperature of one hundred degrees. The 
resulting hot solution of sulphide of sodium is put into a 
drum that may be closely sealed and rotated and more 
water added, say twenty ordinary pailfuls or forty to fifty 
gallons. Into this solution in the drum the hides or skins, 
just as they come from the soaking process, or in the case of 
sheep-skins after the wool has been removed, are placed. 
The proportions of sulphide of sodium and water mentioned 
are enough for twenty dozen skins. This number of skins 
are placed in a drum with the solution of sulphide of 
sodium, the drum securely closed and the skins drummed 
therein for two hours. The drum, still closed, may now be 
permitted to remain at rest for ten or twelve hours, or over 



PATENTED METHODS OF DEPILATING, 251 

night. During this time the skins are excluded from the 
air and are exposed to the solution of sulphide of sodium 
and to such fumes as arise therefrom. At the end of the 
stated time the drum is opened and the skins are washed 
with water, after which they are in condition for the tanner 
to receive and to tan them by any method of tanning. 
The skins treated in this manner will be found to be of 
close firm body, plump and with a fine smooth grain. In 
some tannages they do not tan so readily as skins prepared 
in the regular manner, but this can be overcome by the use 
of strong tanning liquors. The caustic nature of the sul- 
phide of sodium has a more energetic effect upon some 
skins than upon others. Calf-skins are readily drawn or 
contracted upon the grain Avhen they are treated to strong 
solutions of sulphide of sodium. A small quantity of lime 
mixed with the sulphide liquor assists in getting a smooth 
fine grain, and to overcome to some extent the drawing 
tendency of the sulphide of sodium liquor. When this 
method of preparing skins is used the hair is lost, but this 
loss of hair is made up by the firm solid leather that re- 
sults. When a soft leather is wanted, the treatment with 
sulphide of sodium must be followed with a short liming. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

PATENTED PROCESSES OF BATING. 

The following process of bating hides and skins and 
swelling them is of German origin, and has been patented 
in all the countries of Europe, as well as in the United 
States. According to the specifications, it would seem that 
the rational method of neutralizing lime in hides and skins 
would be by the use of a cids, sulphuric acid and others. 
Yet in practice it has been found that free sulphuric acid 
is not a suitable means of liberating the lime from hides 
and skins on account of its caustic properties. It has 
been found, however, that the sulfonic acids of the cresols, 
all of which form soluble lime salts, may be employed in 
tanning as a bate for freeing the hides and skins from lime, 
first because in these acids the caustic properties of the free 
sulphuric acid are neutralized, and also because they 
possess more or less antiseptic and albumen coagulating 
properties, thus preserving the skins before and during 
tanning. A solution of cresol sulfonic acid with water in 
the proportions of one to five hundred is advantageously 
employed. Into this solution the skins are placed at a 
temperature of about ninety degrees Fah. and allowed to 
remain from one to two hours, according to their weight, 
the solution being agitated by suitable means during this 
time. After this operation all lime will be found to have 
been extracted from the skins. When freeing skins from 
lime which possess their full amount of it, a mixture of 
the cresol sulfonic acid with varying quantities of free sul- 
phuric acid can be advantageously employed. The free 
sulphuric acid will act first upon the lime upon the surface 
or upper layer of the skin so as to form gypsum ; and this 

( 252 ) 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF BATING. 253 

is afterwards rinsed off the skin by the subsequent treat- 
ment. Not until this neutralization of the free sulphuric 
acid has taken place will the sulfonic acid be able to act on 
the lime in the lower layer of the skins so as to entirely 
dissolve the same. After the skin or hide has been freed 
from the lime, the swelling process may take place in a 
fresh solution of sulfonic acid and water in the proportions 
of one to five hundred, which is necessary for the purpose 
of preparing sole-leather. As the sulfonic acids, on account 
of their marked properties of coagulating albumen, exert 
no dissolving effect on the substance of the hides or skins 
themselves, this treatment gives a very favorable result in 
respect of weight. Owing to the entire removal of the lime 
from the body of the skins, and owing to the sterilizing and 
hardening of the tissues which take place during the opera- 
tion, the leather obtained attains great strength and has a 
soft grain and light color. 

The cresol sulfonic acids are obtained in great quantities 
as by-products in the manufacture of carbolic acid. By 
treating them with sulphuric acid they are readily changed 
into acids that have proven themselves excellent materials 
for neutralizing lime in hides and skins. 

The bate is obtained directly from crude cresol by mix- 
ing a given quantity of the same with two or three times 
the quantity of sulphuric acid and heating the mixture for 
several days in the water-bath and then adding sufficient 
water and allowing it to stand until the gummy impurities 
are separated and the pure solution obtained. The anti- 
septic property of cresol sulfonic acid is so considerable that 
the bating liquor may be permitted to stand for several 
weeks without deteriorating in quality or decomposing. For 
this reason the same liquor can be used by addition of new 
quantities of cresol sulfonic acid for a number of operations. 
The bating liquor has only then to be replaced by an en- 
tirely new liquor when impurities in considerable quanti- 
ties are collected in the same. 



254 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

With the same results the waste products of the manu- 
facture of carbolic acid can be used, as these consist mainly 
of cresols, and the so-called crude carbolic acid can also be 
used. 

After the removal of the lime and cleaning the hides, it 
is necessary to produce the swelling of the same, which is 
obtained by placing the hides in a liquor formed in the 
proportion of one to one thousand of a cresol sulfonic acid 
in water and leaving the hides for about twenty-four hours 
in this liquor ; but even if the hides remained longer in 
the swelling liquor they would not be injured. The 
swelling of the hides can be accomplished with a solu- 
tion of sulfonic acid which is entirely free from or which is 
mixed with a small quantity of free sulphuric acid. 

Generally speaking, the proportion of free sulphuric acid 
to the sulfonic acid solution has to be adapted to the nature 
of the skins, and to the purpose for which they are to be used. 

Patented by W. Dieterle, Feuerbach, Germany. 

A process of bating 

By which the objects aimed at are accomplished by the use 
of a compound solution of sulphuric acid, borax and glauber 
salt has also been made the subject of a patent. In apply- 
ing this process, the hides or skins, after liming, are placed 
in a vat or other suitable apparatus containing a solution of 
three pounds of sulphuric acid, three pounds of borax and 
three pounds of glauber salt, these ingredients being thor- 
oughly mixed with about five or six barrels of water, or 
sufficient water to cover one hundred and fifty hides or 
skins. After being placed in this solution, if they are not 
agitated in any manner, the hides or skins should remain 
in the solution about thirty-six hours, but if the solution 
and the hides or skins are in a tank provided with a wheel 
for stirring, then about five hours will be sufficient for the 
action of the solution. 

After the treatment of the hides in the solution above 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP BATING. 255 

described, they are then placed for a second treatment in 
an ordinary bark liquor, to which are added about three 
pounds of muriatic acid, and about fifty pounds of common 
salt. The quantity of bark liquor to which the above in- 
gredients are added is about one thousand gallons of six 
degrees Be. The addition of the muriatic acid and salt 
to the bark liquor serves to precipitate all foreign sub- 
stances in the liquor, and to prevent any fermentation 
thereof, and the action of the ingredients in the solution so 
formed is to soften and render the hides soaked therein 
more plump. 

This method of treatment of the hides in a solution of 
water, sulphuric acid, borax and glauber salt for neutralizing 
the lime in the hides may be practiced without treating 
them to the solution of bark liquor, muriatic acid and salt ; 
and also the hides may be treated to the action of the latter 
solution without submitting them to the action of the first 
named liquor for the purpose of neutralizing the lime. 
N. Wilson, Becket, Mass., has patented the above process. 

Bating with potatoes and yeast. 

Among the various methods recommended by those who 
riave made the process of bating and preparing the skins 
for tanning a special study is a process by which the bating, 
drenching and cleansing of the stock are accomplished by 
the use of a bath of potatoes and yeast. This method of 
bating depends also for its efficacy upon the fermentation 
that is developed. It is very cleanly and free from all 
obnoxious odor. In using this method of bating and 
drenching the skins are removed from the liming process 
and unhaired, fleshed and washed in warm water in the 
usual way. The bath to which they are subjected is made 
up of potatoes and yeast. A sufficient quantity of potatoes 
are boiled until they are soft, and are then mashed fine, 
after which they are stirred into warm water. The skins 
are placed in the mixture and as much yeast as may be 



256 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

necessary is added, the proper ratio being about one quart 
of yeast and one bushel of potatoes in two hundred and 
fifty gallons of water to five hundred skins. The fermenta- 
tion is allowed to take place while the skins are being- 
treated. The length of time consumed by the process is 
about twelve hours, and at the end of this time the skins 
will be ready for slating. After being slated, the skins are 
placed in the same bath and kept therein for another twelve 
hours, being thus brought into proper condition for tanning. 
By this method of treatment the skins are made soft, tough 
and elastic and are free from all odor. This treatment also 
renders the usual treatment with bran unnecessary ; the 
fine hairs are readily removed and all the lime is drawn 
from the pores, leaving the skins clean and soft. Patented 
by William Oetlingler, Philadelphia, Pa. 

Another prepared bate 

That has been used successfully in practice is the Norris 
New Solid Bate. This bate depends for its efficacy upon 
the fermentation developed. One pound of this bate is 
sufficient for a pack of hides, forty-two seventy pound hides, 
seventy thirty-five pound hides or thirty ninety pound 
hides, one hundred nine pound calf-skins or two hundred 
and forty sheep-skins. It is used in this maimer : Take a 
clean barrel, remove the head and place in close proximity 
to bate vats. From the package shave with a knife the 
desired quantity into a pailful of warm water. Stir until 
dissolved. Pour this into the barrel, which has been filled 
about half full of warm water, stir well and allow it to 
stand at least twenty-four hours. Dip out nearly all the 
contents of the barrel and pour into the warm water of the 
bating vat, stir well and put in the hides or skins which 
have been washed after unhairing. When the hides or 
skins are removed from the bating vat, nearly all but not 
quite all of the old liquor should be run off. For the first 
pack use double the regular quantity of bate. All bates 



PATENTED PROCESSES OP BATING. 257 

work best in pools or tubs in which there is a wheel. 
Many puresmen do not run off the liquor, but freshen it up 
from day to day with new bate. If this is done, the con- 
tents of the bating vat should be well stirred up and about 
one-third drawn off every day and warm water and fresh 
bate added. In this way the same solution can be used for 
several weeks. 

As it is sometimes difficult to obtain the best results with 
the first pack, it is well to dissolve a package of bate in a 
half barrel of water (90°) and let it stand in a warm place 
about a week before using. Stock which has been unhaired 
by sulphide of sodium or red arsenic, used in connection 
with lime, should be very thoroughly washed before going 
into the bate. A small quantity of sal ammoniac, one-half 
pound for one hundred pounds of stock, can be advantage- 
ously added to the water in which such stock is washed 
previous to bating. New Solid Bate is made and sold by 
W. N. Norris, Princeton, N. J. 

Bating with naphthaline sulphuric acids. 

In this process of bating, there are employed in the treat- 
ment of hides or skins, as a means of accomplishing the 
neutralization of the lime and alkali sulphides used in 
depilating, the sulphonic acids of naphthaline. The hides 
or skins are immersed in a warm or cold solution of the 
acid of sufficient strength or of more than sufficient strength 
for the conversion of the alkali into its salts. The length 
of time the hides or skins are subjected to the action of the 
acid varies with different kinds of stock. For best results 
it is desirable to use the acid as pure as possible ; but good 
results may be obtained even if the acid contains some of 
the impurities incident to its manufacture, such as free sul- 
phuric or muriatic acid and salts of both, together with 
traces of the naphthaline sulphuric acid salts or traces of 
metals arising from the apparatus in which the acid is made. 

The naphthaline sulphuric acids are best employed in a 
17 



258 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

solution varying from two to five per cent, in strength, 
although it may be used very much weaker or stronger. If 
weaker, its action is much slower, and there is very little 
necessity for making it any stronger, the object being to use 
an excess of from two to four per cent, over the amount 
necessary to convert the alkali used as a depilatory and 
contained in the hides or skins at the time of treatment, 
with its naphthaline sulphonic acid salts. 

The advantages resulting from the use of the naphthaline 
sulfonic acids may be briefly stated as follows : Their 
marked antiseptic qualities which preserve the hides or 
skins from dissolution or loss daring the bating process ; 
the avoidance of the introduction of bacteria into the tan 
solution or liquors which is attendant upon common 
methods and upon the use of acids that induce decomposi- 
tion ; their lack of action upon the hide structure itself, 
except as a preservative ; the extreme solubility of their 
salts ; their lack of action with iron salts to produce a dis- 
coloration of the solution ; by the complete removal of the 
alkali or alkaline salts used as a depilatory ; its action upon 
the hides or skins fitting them for rapid combination with 
the tanning agent and effecting in the leather the lightest 
color of which the hides or skins are capable of assuming 
with the tanning agent used, and the prdouction of the 
greatest weight of leather of which the hides or skins are 
capable through the avoidance of loss of gelatine. This 
process was patented in 1891 by Messrs. C. S. Hull and P. 
S. Burns, of Boston, Mass. 

The use of a coal tar bate 

Preserves the natural enamel on the grain of the hides and 
skins, so often destroyed by fermenting bates, and has, be- 
sides, a bleaching effect on bark tannages, imparting a much 
lighter color than would be otherwise obtained. It is very 
simple and economical to use. The skins are removed from 
the limes and unhaired and fleshed and thoroughly washed 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF BATING. 259 

with water at a temperature of ninety degrees or there- 
abouts, so as to remove as much of the lime as possible. 
If, during the process of liming, sulphide of sodium is used 
in combination with the lime, it renders the lime more 
soluble and therefore more easily removed with water. 
The object of washing the skins is to cleanse them and to 
partially bate them, thereby effecting a saving in the quan- 
tity of bate required. After washing, the skins should be 
thoroughly worked on the beam, especially on the grain. 

The bating solution is prepared in the proportion of from 
one-half to one pound of bate in one hundred gallons of 
warm water. The bate should be dissolved in a pail of 
hot water of a temperature of one hundred and forty de- 
grees. Under no circumstances should it be boiled. If 
the hides or skins have been treated as above suggested, one 
pound of bate should be sufficient for four hundred pounds 
of wet hide, washed from the limes. The hides or skins are 
placed in the bating solution and stirred about for an 
hour. They are then allowed to rest in the liquor with 
occasional stirring for some hours or over night. 

The length of time that the bating should continue de- 
pends upon the degree of softness wanted in the leather. 
For example, for sole leather fifteen minutes is sufficient ; 
for satin leather thirty minutes ; for glove leather four to 
six hours, or even longer. 

On removing the skins from the bating solution it is 
sometimes desirable for the finer grades of leather to wash 
them in water and again work them over the beam. They 
are then ready to be placed in the tanning liquors. In 
preparing the bating solution for the second pack, one-third 
of the old liquor should be drawn off and replaced with 
fresh water ; then one-half the quantity of bate used at 
first should be added, and this repeated for each succeeding 
pack. 

When fresh white limes are used toward the end of the 
liming process and a manure bate is deemed necessary to 



260 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

reduce the harshness of the grain caused by the fresh lime, 
it is very beneficial to give the skins from the manure bate 
a drench of coal tar bate, thereby arresting the bacterial 
action of the manure bate, preserving the grain, besides 
cleansing, bleaching and neutralizing the skins preparatory 
to tanning them. Again, when it is considered desirable 
to use a manure bate, it is good practice to treat the skins 
first in a solution of the coal tar bate and then place them 
in the manure bate. By this method of. treatment the 
destructive action of the manure bate is arrested and the 
risk of damage to the grain lessened. In all cases where 
the value of the leather is dependent on the quality and 
perfection of the grain, this is an important advantage to 
gain. Coal Tar Bate is made and sold by The Martin 
Dennis Chrome Tannage Co., Newark, N. J. 

An interesting patented process of bating 

Is the invention of Charles W. Koch, of Milwaukee. After 
the hides or skins have been thoroughly washed and as much 
of the lime removed from them as is possible, a further 
treatment is necessary in order to more completely prepare 
the hides or skins for tanning and to produce a superior 
leather. To accomplish this object in a simple manner and 
without injury to the hides or skins a solution of about two 
hundred and fifty gallons of water, one hundred and fifty 
pounds of common salt, three pounds of hyposulphite of 
soda and three pounds of either sulphuric or muriatic acid is 
used. About two hundred calf-skins and about fifty hides 
can be agitated in this solution for about two hours. After 
this they are processed in a second solution composed of two 
hundred gallons of water, ten pounds of glauber salt and 
sixty pounds of hyposulphite of soda or the same quantity 
of sodium sulphite crystals. In this solution they should 
be stirred about for two hours or longer, after which they 
are ready for the process of tanning. The above solutions 
can be used for a long time, as they do not ferment or de- 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF BATING. 261 

compose. They only require strengthening proportionately, 
as they become weakened, by the addition of the same in- 
gredients. The ingredients of both solutions can be com- 
bined in one with good results. 

For the purpose of neutralizing lime in hides, skins and glue 
stock, carbonic acid gas has been suggested 

And a patent taken out on the process. This process may 
be applied to hides and skins intended to be tanned into 
leather, but it- is really intended by the inventor to apply it 
to glue stock. The lime contained in hides and skins and 
glue stock is generally neutralized by subjecting them for 
some time to the action of the atmosphere, the neutralizing 
of the lime being accomplished by the carbonic acid gas 
contained therein. This method of treatment is slow and 
imperfect. The use of carbonic acid gas, to which hides 
and skins are subjected, is said to produce more or less 
satisfactory results. It has been discovered that the 
caustic lime contained in hides, skins and other animal 
tissue may be quickly and thoroughly neutralized by sub- 
jecting them while in water to the action of carbonic acid 
gas. The more thoroughly the- hides and skins are agitated 
in the water to which the carbonic acid gas is introduced, 
the shorter will be the time necessary for the neutralization 
of the caustic lime contained therein, and the more thor- 
oughly and perfectly will the process be Carried out. 

In carrying out this process the necessary agitation of 
the bath may be produced in two ways, first by forcing a 
jet or jets of carbonic acid gas into the water in which the 
hides or skins are contained, at such pressure as to cause an 
active agitation of the mass and the consequent exposure of 
every part of the materials treated to the gas and to the bath 
of acidulated water ; and secondly, by providing the vessel 
in which the hides or skins are treated with mechanical 
stirrers, by which the water and the hides or skins con- 
tained therein are kept in a state of agitation during the 



262 PKACTICAL TANNING.. 

admission thereto of a jet or jets of carbonic acid gas. 
The chemical action consequent upon the treatment of the 
caustic lime in the skins with carbonic acid gas results in 
the formation of inert carbonate of lime. Various mechan- 
ical devices may be employed to carry out this invention. 
The inventor of this process, Chas. W. Cooper, of Brooklyn, 
New York, has also invented a form of apparatus to be 
used in applying the process. By the use of the apparatus 
better results are obtained than by any other means. How- 
ever, it has been found possible and practicable to neutralize 
the caustic lime contained in the substances treated by in- 
troducing a sufficient volume of carbonic acid gas to a 
vessel containing water and skins to actively agitate the 
mass. The essential feature of this invention is the treat- 
ment of hides, skins or other animal substances containing 
lime in water, with carbonic acid gas, whereby a proper 
distribution of the gas and its application and contact for 
a sufficient time to and with every part of the material 
are insured, and the neutralization of the lime quickly and 
thoroughly obtained. 

A process of bating in which bichromate of potash is used 

Has been made the subject of a patent by Henry Schlegel, 
of Lapeer, Mich, In practical work this bath is used in 
the following manner : After unhairing, the hides are 
washed in a wash -wheel, then a vat is filled with the quan- 
tity of water required, after which the bate-wheel is started 
up, and with a steam ejector the liquor is warmed up to 80' 
degrees Fah. The ejector is fixed so that the hides cannot 
get near the end of suction or discharge pipe, and while the 
water is getting warm the necessary amount of bate is dis- 
solved in hot water and poured into the bate vat. After 
the bate has been put in, the hides are run in the liquor for 
a short time and then left in the same, over night or longer, 
depending upon their condition. Then they are fine- 
haired, again washed in warm water and are ready for 



PATENTED PROCESSES OF BATING. 263 

tanning. About two ounces of the bate are used for two 
thousand pounds of green salted hides or skins. 

The gist of this process lies in the employment of a 
chromium compound as a base. The chromium compound 
mixes with the lime and causes the same to be readily 
washed out. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE MANUFACTURE OF CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 

BEAM-HOUSE PROCESSES. 

Calf-skins are tanned into leather and finished in 
various ways. Large numbers are made into chrome 
leather and finished in smooth and boarded, black and 
colored. In addition to the chrome processes, different 
vegetable processes are used. Gambier and similar soft 
tannages are frequently used. Leather tanned by any of 
these methods is finished upon the grain. Wax calf and 
satin leather are finished upon the flesh or inner side. 
Skins that are imperfect upon the grain by reason of 
scratches and breaks are worked very satisfactorily into 
wax leather, the quality of the grain in this class of leather 
counting for nothing. Calf-skins are also made into glove 
leather, also into leather for lining purposes and into fancy 
leather. For glove-leather chrome, oil, napa and other soft 
tannages are used, while upon skins intended for special 
and fancy leather, vegetable processes are used. Of all 
skins, calf-skins are the most difficult to tan. This is be- 
cause they have not attained maturity and full strength of 
fibre. They require very careful handling, being very 
easily injured by carelessness or abuse. The details of the 
process must be watched and carefully carried out. Many 
imperfections met with on finished calf-skins are the direct 
result of ignorance, carelessness or abuse in some part of 
the work. To meet with success in the making of calf 
leather requires much skill and judgment, and these are 
only acquired by application, study and experience. 

During the processes of preparing the skins for tanning, 

( 264 ) 



THE MANUFACTURE OF CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 265 

much of the quality of the finished leather is decided by 
the methods and materials used in these processes. 

Grading and Classification of Green Calf-Shins. 

Green calf-skins are graded and classified in the following 
manner by one of the largest calf-skin dealers in this 
country. They are first graded as to qualities, viz.: 

First,_drawn or fisted off. These are skins that are per- 
fect in every respect, fresh, clean, free from scars and other 
imperfections and in choice condition. No deep scars are 
allowed on the bodies of these skins, although slight knife 
marks are permissible. If the hair slips on a spot no larger 
than a silver quarter dollar, the skin drops down into a No. 2. 

Second, regular No. 1. These are clean, fresh skins that 
have been properly taken off with knives. Scores are 
allowed in this grade, but there must be no holes, hair slips 
or other bad imperfections. An old salt-stained skin, even 
though it has no holes nor hair slips, is not allowed in this 
grade, but is put into No. 2. 

Third, good No. 2. This term designates those skins 
that are slightly hair slipped. In this grade are also in- 
cluded those skins that have one, but not more than one 
hole in the body of the skin, and all old or salt-stained 
skins, even though they have neither holes nor hair slips. 

Fourth,, proof No. 2. This class of skins are those that 
have more than one and less than five holes in them ; also 
those that are badly hair-slipped or otherwise badly injured. 
: Fifth, culls. A cull is a skin that has five holes or more 
in the body of the skin, or one badly damaged by reason of 
moths, ticks, taint or other serious imperfections. 

There is another still lower grade of skins, which is 
called " glues." These skins are practically worthless for 
purposes of tanning into leather, and are always bought and 
sold on terms agreed upon according to their valuation. 

: After the skins are graded according to quality, they are 
subdivided to weights, viz.: 



266 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

First, what are known as deacon or dairy skins. These 
are skins taken from calves whose meat is not used for food. 
They weigh in the green untrimmed condition below seven 
and one-half pounds. This classification also includes 
trimmed veal skins weighing under five pounds. 

Second, five to seven pound trimmed veal skins. This 
classification also includes a deacon or dairy skin weighing, 
green and untrimmed, seven and one-half pounds and above. 

Third, seven to nine pound veal skins. 

Fourth, nine to twelve pound veal skins. 

Fifth, tw T elve to seventeen pound veal kip. 

Sixth, kips weighing from seventeen pounds up. 

These are the grades and classifications into which the 
skins are sorted when they are received at the warehouse of 
the dealer. Skins are sold in these grades to tanners, 
although all dealers do not strictly follow these classifica- 
tions. When skins are carefully graded as to quality and 
weight, and the characteristics of each grade are well known 
to the tanner, he can buy the class of skins that is especially 
adapted to his particular needs. 

Slunks are skins taken from still-born calves. They are 
very light and tender skins, and have a very fine clear 
grain. They are usually sold by the piece, the price per 
skin being determined by the quality of the skins. 

Large numbers of calf-skins are imported into the United 
States from foreign countries in both green salted and dry 
condition. The green salted skins are used for the same 
classes of leather as domestic skins, while many of the dried 
skins, owing to many scratches and breaks in the grain, are 
valueless for leather finished upon the grain, and must be 
worked into wax and similar leathers. 

Soaking Process. 

During the soaking process it is necessary that all the 
salt, dirt and other objectionable substances be gotten rid 
of, as this has much to do with bright, clear-grained leather. 



THE MANUFACTURE OF CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 267 

Then, too, it is advisable to accomplish ihese results in as 
short a time as possible, and not to carry the soaking beyond 
a certain point. Soaking for a long time results in loose 
and lifeless leather, lacking in fullness and plumpness, 
owing to the loss of gelatine which it is important should 
be left in the skins. In order to accomplish clean, rapid 
and thorough soaking the salted skins should be soaked in 
clean, fresh water. When they are heavily salted or very 
dirty, a good practice is to soak the skins for a few hours in 
clean water, then to withdraw them from the vat, and after 
allowing them to drain until the dirty salty water is 
drained off, to soak them a few hours longer in clean water. 
Ordinarily no change of water is required, if clean water is 
used. The length of time consumed by the soaking pro- 
cess depends upon the thickness and condition of the skins, 
and no arbitrary rule can be followed nor is it necessary. 
Ordinary salted skins can be soaked in ten hours. They 
may be soaked longer though without injur} 7 , say from 
twelve to fifteen hours, and some tanners soak these skins 
for twenty-four hours. 

While the salt used upon the raw skin acts as a preserva- 
tive, upon -becoming dissolved in the water it has an injur- 
ious effect upon the stock, frequently causing the leather to 
be soft and lacking in fullness, and at the same time to 
show a clouded and streaked grain. Old stale soaks in 
which large quantities of dirt, blood and salt have become 
dissolved are risky and unpleasant to use, clean, fresh soaks 
producing the best results. The putrefaction which fre- 
quently sets in, in old soaks, sometimes affects the skins in 
such a manner as to impair their quality, although many 
times the condition is not noticed at the time, and later no 
one can tell what caused it. It is not best to put a mixed 
lot of skins into the soaking process. In other words the 
skins should be sorted and only those of like nature and 
size soaked together. This is a good rule to follow in all 
leather-making processes, the sorcing of the skins before 



268 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

putting them through any process, assisting greatly in 
getting uniform results. 

A good method of soaking salted skins 
Is to wash them for a few minutes, and then to put them 
into the soak water for a number of hours, ranging from 
ten to twenty-four, according to their thickness and condi- 
tion. Dried calfskins of course require longer and more 
thorough soaking in order to get them soft enough to go 
into the liming process. Such skins when carefully handled 
result in very nice leather, although the grain is more or 
less afflicted with cracks and other imperfections. Sulphide 
of sodium may be added to the water in which dry skins 
are soaked, in quantity sufficient to enable the skins to be- 
come soft in from thirty -six to forty-eight hours. After the 
skins have become partially softened they may be removed 
from the water, worked mechanically and then resoaked 
until they are thoroughly softened. It is not advisable to 
pass these skins along into the unhairing process until they 
have become soft and clean. Both green and dry skins 
after soaking should be drained, and the dirty water allowed 
to run off before they are unhaired. They must be kept 
from heating, as heating even in a slight degree results in 
more or less injury to the skins, which no subsequent treat- 
ment can remedy or cure. 

Borax also produces good results when it is used in the 
soaking process. When sulphide of sodium is used from 
one-sixteenth to one-eighth of an ounce is enough for each 
skin, dissolved in warm water and poured into the water in 
the soak vats. When borax is used from- three to five 
pounds may be dissolved and added to each one thousand 
gallons of water. The borax helps in getting a smooth soft 
grain, and at the same time keeps the soak water fresh and 
sweet. Fresh water should be used for every pack of skins, 
as when this is done, bright, clear leather results, although 
many tanners use soaks over and over until they become 
stale and foul. 



THE MANUFACTURE OP CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 269 

In the preparation of calfskins for any chrome process, 
the essential thing to be accomplished is the keeping of the 
substance of the skins intact, so as to result in plump 
leather. To soak the skins for too long a time or to lime 
them too long results in soft, thin and lifeless leather. As 
there are little plumping or filling qualities in chrome 
processes it is especially important that the loss of skin sub- 
stance be guarded against ; more so for this class of tanning 
than for any other. 

A popular process of preparing calf skins for tanning by chrome 

methods, 
Removal of the hair and swelling of the skin-fibres, is by 
the use of arsenic limes. This method of depilating and 
preparing the skins results in soft and elastic leather, fairly 
plump and with a fine, smooth grain. After the skins 
come from the soaks and are drained, they are, by some 
tanners, fastened into a long chain, and entered into the 
liming process, and by the aid of the reels passed from one 
lime vat to another. Much labor of handling the skins is 
saved in this way. The best results follow when the skins 
are started in a weak lime liquor and this liquor strength- 
ened each day until it becomes strong or the skins are passed 
into stronger lime liquors each day. When the skins are 
limed too rapidly the grain often becomes loose from the 
flesh, the strength of the leather impoverished and trouble 
met with in the processes of tanning and finishing. When 
an old lime liquor is to be had, the strength at the begin- 
ning should be about 5° Twaddle. Into this lime the 
skins are placed and allowed to remain therein for a few 
days until they become thoroughly impregnated with the 
liquor, then the strength of the liquor should be increased 
or else the skins hauled out, drained off, and entered into a 
stronger lime. By this way of preparing the skins, they 
are made soft and pliable, the fine hairs readily come out 
and the grain is not injured. Calfskins should be left in a 
strong lime as short a time as possible. 



270 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Preparing the Limes. 
The rules followed in preparing the limes vary. Many 
tanners follow no rule, but work according to judgment, 
relying solely upon it to tell them when the skins are 
limed enough. When old lime liquors are to be had, a 
good starting lime may be prepared by using two-thirds old 
liquor and one-third new, that is of six hundred gallons in 
the vat four hundred gallons are old lime liquor and two 
hundred are new and fresh liquor. This may be strength- 
ened each day by the addition of new lime and arsenic, or 
the skins, after being in this weak liquor for two or three 
days, may be passed into stronger limes until they are suffi- 
ciently swollen to enable the workman readily to remove the 
hair. In preparing a new lime about one hundred pounds 
of lime are slacked with about twelve pails of hot water. 
To this quantity of lime from five to ten pounds of red arse- 
nic are added. The arsenic should be dissolved separately 
and then added to the slacked lime. Both materials need 
to be thoroughly dissolved before coming in contact with the 
skins. The quantities of arsenic and lime mentioned are 
enough for six hundred calfskins to begin with. After the 
skins have been in the liquor one day they should be hauled 
out and the lime well stirred up from the bottom of the vat. 
If the skins are allowed to drain before going back into the 
lime they will take up the lime more readily. When pad- 
dle vats are used the hauling out is not necessary, although 
it is a good plan to keep the lime stirred up from the bot- 
tom of the vat. On the third day the lime should be 
strengthened by the addition of fresh lime and arsenic. If 
the strength for the first day or two should prove too strong 
and the grain show any injury, less lime should be used for 
the next lot of skins. Considerable judgment is necessary 
in preparing calfskins, as they are young and tender skins 
and need to be handled carefully. It is wise to strengthen 
the lime liquor each day by the addition of two or three 
pails of slacked lime, until the hair becomes loosened, and 



THE MANUFACTURE OF CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 271 

after the hair starts it is wise to let the skins lie in the 
liquor for two or three days longer, as this not only causes 
the hair to come off more readily and cleanly but makes 
the leather softer. The liming will be accomplished in 
about five days, if paddle vats are used, but this must be 
left to the judgment of the workman. When the skins are 
left two or three days in an old weak liquor, five days in a 
strong liquor are generally sufficient, although much de- 
pends upon the thickness of the skins, temperature of the 
limes and the time of the year. Less time is required in 
the summer than in the winter. It is not good practice to 
lime the skins from the start in strong limes. The better 
way is to allow the skins to lie for a day or two in an old 
weak liquor and when they have become thoroughly im- 
pregnated with the solution to place them in the strong 
limes, for five or six days. In this way the grain is left 
smooth and fine and the fibres are not loosened. The re- 
moval of the hair may be done by hand or machinery, 
after which the skins are washed, slated on the machine 
and the grain cleaned, and are then ready for the bating 
and drenching. 

Sulphide of sodium is used in much the same manner as the 

red arsenic. 

It is mixed with the lime either before or after slacking, 
and forms with the lime a very satisfactory process by 
the use of which the time of liming is considerably short- 
ened, the grain kept smooth and the lime made more solu- 
ble and therefore more easily removed before tanning. 
A very common method of using sulphide of sodium is 
to mix it with the lime in the same manner as described 
for red arsenic. Usually about one-half as much sulphide 
of sodium as of lime is used, and the skins entered into a 
weak lime, left therein one day, pulled out and the lime 
strengthened. This is repeated for six or eight days, when, 
according to the thickness of the skins and the strength of 



272 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the liquor, the skins will be sufficiently swollen to enable 
the tanner readily to remove the hair. 

The sulphide of sodium may also be used in other ways 
With good results. One of these ways is to prepare a solu- 
tion of lime and sulphide of sodium in a vat, using about 
twice as much sulphide of sodium as lime. The strength 
may range from, two to five degrees Beaume. Into this liquor 
the skins are placed and stirred about occasionally. At the 
end of the first day the strength may be increased by adding 
more lime and sulphide, and at the end of two or three 
days the hair will be dissolved and the skins can then be 
washed, and limed for about four days longer. When it is 
desired to save the hair and at the same time prepare the 
skins in a very short time, they may be painted upon the 
flesh side with a solution of sulphide of sodium and lime. 
This procedure produces good results, although it is not in 
general use. About one-half barrel of lime may be used to 
fifty gallons of water. The lime should be completely re- 
duced to milk of lime with hot water and thoroughly 
stirred from the time the lime and water are put together 
until all the lime is dissolved. No particles of unslaked 
lime should be left in the mixture. The solution should 
be allowed to cool and used at the consistency of thin 
paste. About six pails of this lime should be mixed with 
a barrel of sulphide of sodium liquor of a strength of 
eighteen degrees Be'. After the skins have been soaked 
they should be well drained, then spread upon a smooth 
surface and the mixture of lime and sulphide of sodium 
applied to the flesh side with a vegetable brush. Enough 
of the liquor should be put on to cover the skins with- 
out running off. After treatment the skins are folded 
once and placed in piles until the next day. The skins 
swell very rapidly, and usually the hair starts in a few 
hours. However, it is best not to unhair the skins until 
the next day, when the hair can be readily removed with a 
dull instrument or stick. After unhairing the skins should 



THE MANUFACTURE OP CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 273 

be immersed in cold water, in which they will be kept from 
drying and spoiling. A liming in clean rather weak limes 
for from four to six days will finish the process, and the 
skins may then be bated or drenched and tanned. This 
method of treating the skins requires more labor than the 
others that have been described, but results in good plump 
leather, and if the hair is to be saved it may be washed and 
spread out and dried. The skins must not be allowed to 
heat in summer and not to freeze in winter. Whenever 
the hair comes off with difficulty 'the skin should be re- 
painted, so as to avoid straining the grain. After the hair 
has been removed, the skins require further swelling, which 
the liming accomplishes. The first lime into which the 
skins are placed may be liquor that has been used before, 
and if it is rather strong, about one-half of the liquor may 
be run out and replaced with water, or a lime may be made 
new by putting about two buckets of lime into the required 
quantity of water for two to three hundred skins, according 
to their size. The skins may be left in this lime from one 
day until the next, and then if still vats are used, they 
should be hauled out and two more buckets of lime added. 
On the third day more lime should be added, and in from 
four to six days the skins will be prepared for bating. 
The thickness of the skins has much to do with the time 
required to lime them, and also the degree of softness 
wanted in the leather. Skins intended for a one-bath pro- 
cess of tanning usually require a trifle more lime than skins 
to be tanned in acid baths, as the latter split up the fibres 
of the skins, which the one-bath processes do not do. 

BATING PROCESSES AS APPLIED TO CALFSKINS. 

The bran drench has been in use for a great many years, 
and while it is somewhat uncertain and unpleasant to use, 
it is to be preferred to manure puring or bating. It is 
used by many tanners of calfskins, and when properly used 
produces soft, clear skins that work into desirable leather. 
18 



274 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The best bran to use is the finer grade, as it contains more 
flour than the coarse grades. A method of using the bran 
drench is carried out as follows : For a pack of skins rang- 
ing in number from three hundred to four hundred, one- 
half of a barrel of bran is mixed with enough water to 
make a thick mush. This is allowed to stand forty-eight 
hours, or until it becomes sour. Warm water hastens the 
souring. When the bran is thoroughly sour it is emptied 
into the water in the drenching vat. To the drench are 
added three pints of sulphuric acid and three pecks of com- 
mon salt, and the entire mixture stirred together, and the 
temperature raised to ninety degrees. A paddling in this 
•drench for from four to five hours is generally sufficient for 
light and medium weight skins, heavy skins requiring 
longer time. This drench reduces the skins to a very soft 
and slippery condition, and thorough^ cleanses them of all 
lime. The usual working or slating may be given the 
skins, after which they may be washed off in warm water 
and are ready for tanning. The important points to be 
observed in the use of the bran drench are that the fer- 
mentation is fully developed ; that the skins are kept well 
opened out and constantly, or at least frequently, stirred 
about, and the temperature of the liquor no higher than 
ninety degrees. 

As soon as the skins settle to the bottom and remain 
there they should be removed without delay, as to leave 
them in longer results in injury to the stock. W T hen the 
bran is not allowed to thoroughly ferment before use, or the 
liquor is used too hot or for too long a time, the grain of 
the skins becomes rough and raised, and the stock thus 
seriously damaged. Considerable skill and judgment are 
required in handling the bran drench to get the right 
results, and when trouble is encountered, carelessness or 
ignorance is generally the cause. No matter what 
method of depilating and swelling the skins is used, after 
the process is completed the skins require to be thoroughly 



THE MANUFACTURE OF CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 275 

fine-haired, and washed in warm water to accomplish the 
removal of much of the lime. The more thoroughly the 
skins are cleansed with warm water, the less bating and 
drenching are required. Soft, pliable leather cannot be 
made until the skins are properly prepared to receive the 
tannage, by being thoroughly washed, cleansed and re- 
duced from their plump and swollen condition acquired 
during liming to one of softness and neutrality. 

Very good results follow the use of lactic acid 

Upon calf-skins intended for chrome tanning. This mater- 
ial readily dissolves the lime in the skins, and at the same 
time leaves them with considerable plumpness, two very 
important points in making chrome leather. After washing 
in warm water the skins are placed in a drench prepared as 
follows : One hundred gallons of water are heated to a tem- 
perature of from ninety to one hundred degrees Fah. To 
this is added one gallon of lactic acid. The quantity of acid 
necessary varies according to the condition of the skins. 
One gallon of acid to one hundred gallons of water is the 
maximum quantity. Much less may in many instances be 
used and still the right results be obtained. When the 
drench is warm, the lime is readily dissolved and the skins 
become soft and thin. In a cold drench they remain full 
and plump, although the lime becomes dissolved also. A 
paddle-vat should be used for this process, and the skins 
stirred about constantly. After being in the liquor for two 
hours the skins will be sufficiently drenched to receive the 
usual beam-work or slating. Calfskins treated with lactic 
acid stand much more working than those treated by 
any other process of drenching. After the slating or the 
beam-work the skins should be put back into another 
drench somewhat weaker than the first, say two quarts of 
acid in one hundred gallons of water, and stirred about 
therein for one hour in order to further cleanse them, and 
to remove any dirt acquired during the beam-work or slat- 



276 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ing. If the skins are to be pickled before they are tanned 
they may go at once into the pickle from the second drench 
without further washing, while if they are to be tanned in 
a two-bath process, and not pickled, they may be washed 
off in warm water and are then ready for the tanning proc- 
ess. When one pack of skins follows another, the drench 
liquor can be used over and over by being strengthened for 
each lot of skins, by adding one-half the quantity of acid 
first put in. This applies to the first drench. The second 
may be kept sufficiently strong with acid by the addition 
of less than one-half the first quantity put in, but this must 
be decided by the workman. Sometimes one lot of skins 
requires more acid than others, and the operator must use 
judgment. The use of more acid than is actually required 
will not injure the skins ; it is merely wasted. 

Drenching in a pin-will drum. 
While the paddle-vat method of drenching is the best that 
can be used, the skins can also be drenched in a pin-mill 
drum. When this is done one pound of acid is required for 
each one hundred pounds of skins, in enough warm water to 
enable the skins to drum nicely. The skins should not be 
drummed longer than from twenty to thirty minutes, re- 
moved from the drum, given the beam-work or slating, 
washed in another drench and are then ready for pickling, 
or if they are not to be pickled, they are washed after the 
second drenching and are then ready for tanning. 

Advantages of lactic acid. 
The use of lactic acid for this purpose is to be recommended, 
because it is safe, cleap and cleanly. There is no objection- 
able smell to the process or to the skins, no danger of injur- 
ing the leather and by using the liquor over and over by 
strengthening it up for each lot of skins great economy can 
be achieved. The drench is also readily prepared, requir- 
ing only a few moments, and after it is prepared and the 
skins put in no attention at all is required until the time 



THE MANUFACTURE OF CALF-SKIN LEATHER. 277 

to remove the skins from the drench. These points all 
recommend lactic acid for deliming calfskins., 

Another method of using bran 

For deliming the skins, is to use about two hundred 
pounds of bran for each five hundred skins of medium 
size. The bran should be allowed to ferment before it is 
used, and to accomplish this it should be cooked or at 
least mixed with hot water, to which a cake of yeast or 
a small quantity of sulphuric acid has been added. A 
pailful of old sour liquor will also hasten the bran to turn 
sour. One-half of the bran is mixed in the required 
volume of water, stirred well and then one-half of the skins 
are put in, then the balance of the bran is added and the 
remaining skins. The skins should be put in as quickly as 
possible in order to have them get a uniform degree of heat. 
This is best accomplished by having the skins in piles 
along the edge of the vat, and several men detailed to do 
the work. The stirring of the drench is a matter of some 
importance, in order that all lumps of dough may be 
broken up. The bran sometimes forms lumps of dough 
which retain the heat, and when these break up in contact 
with the skins the heat causes small, hard burn-spots to 
appear, which are objectionable. 

Calfskins intended for any chrome process require careful 
bating and drenching. It is important that the paddle-vats 
in which the process is carried out are sufficiently large to 
allow considerable floating and turning in the liquor. If 
the vat is too small for the lot of skins they will turn 
around in bunches and get unevenly drenched. 

MANURE BATING. 

When manures are used upon calfskins, the process is 
carried only to the point where the lime becomes thoroughly 
dissolved . Then the skins are taken from the manure pure 
or bate and drenched in a lactic acid bath for a short time 



278 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and they are then ready for tanning. The use of manures 
cannot be recommended, as they are dangerous and uncer- 
tain as well as unpleasant in the extreme. Some tanners, 
however, continue to use them in spite of their disagreeable 
features and the fact that their use can be dispensed with 
entirely and newer and better articles used in their place. 
A good method of using manures for bating is to leave the 
skins in the bate liquor simply long enough to dissolve the 
lime. If the process is carried further than this some of 
the substance of the skins becomes dissolved, and the leather 
lacks fullness and plumpness. A bating in a warm manure 
bath for two or three hours is generally sufficient to accom- 
plish the object aimed at. Then the skins should be 
drenched in a warm bath of lactic acid, slated, washed off 
and are then ready for the process of tanning. The slating 
or working of the grain of the skins is an important part of 
the beamhouse work, as it removes all hair roots, dissolved 
lime and fine hairs. After the final washing the skins, 
should be drained well and then weighed for tanning. 



CHAPTER XV. 

CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 

Calfskins may be tanned with the two-bath acid process 
in two ways. For the first bath may be used ten pounds 
of salt for every hundred pounds of skins, dissolved in fif- 
teen gallons of water. The skins may be drummed in this 
salt solution for fifteen minutes, and then may be added 
two pounds of muriatic acid for every hundred pounds of 
skins. This acid should be diluted with water and given 
gradually to the skins, and the drumming continued for 
fifteen minutes. The pickling in acid and salt serves to 
open and plump the skins and to keep them smooth during 
tanning. Before the chrome liquor is applied the acid 
liquor should be drained off. Then the following bath is 
prepared : Into twelve gallons of warm water dissolve two 
pounds of bichromate of potash for every hundred pounds 
of skins. This should be used cold and the skins drummed 
in the same for thirty minutes. Then the strength of the 
chrome bath may be increased by the addition of four 
pounds of bichromate of potash and two to three pounds of 
common salt, dissolved in fifteen gallons of water, for every 
one hundred pounds of skins. This liquor is given to the 
skins through the hollow gudgeon of the drum and the 
skins milled therein in three to four hours or until they are 
well penetrated with the yellow liquor and thoroughly sea- 
soned with it. Then they are taken from the drum and 
thrown over horses and allowed to drain over night. 

The skins can also be tanned by being drummed in the follow- 
ing solution for the first bath: 
Twelve gallons of water to which are added in solution five 

(279) 



280 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

pounds of bichromate of potash and two and one-half pounds 
of muriatic acid. A few pounds of salt may also be added. 
The skins are taken after the final washing and without 
pickling are placed in the drum with this chrome solution 
and drummed in it for a sufficient length of time to enable 
the yellow liquor to penetrate the thickest skin. In place of 
bichromate of potash and muriatic acid, chromic acid may 
be used. This is a red powder, and when it is used it is not 
•necessary to add any muriatic acid. The same quantity of 
chromic acid is used as is commonly used of bichromate of 
potash. When the first bath contains too much acid the skins 
swell very rapidly until the} 7 look like pieces of India rubber. 
The presence of salt in the liquor prevents this swelling and 
also hastens the process. The yellow chrome liquor must 
• penetrate through every fibre of the thickest skin before the 
skins are removed. Carelessness in this respect results in 
poor leather. When the first bath is completed the skins 
are removed from the drum, struck out on the machine, or 
in order to save labor pressed out, to remove the surplus 
liquor from them, and are then allowed to press and drain 
for some hours or over night, after which they may be en- 
tered into the second bath. The first bath may also be ap- 
plied to the skins in a vat, although a drum is generally 
preferred. The quantities of bichromate of potash and acid 
may vary. Sometimes more than the above-mentioned 
quantities are used, but always one-half the quantity of 
chromic acid should be used. 

The various methods of tanning goatskins with one-bath process 
may be applied in the same manner to calf -skins. 

When the skins are taken from the tanning liquors, no 
matter whether the two-bath or a one-bath process has been 
used, they are full of the tanning materials. When tanned 
by a one-bath process, the skins are full of common salt, 
sulphate of alumina and the salts taken up from the tanning 
liquors ; when some two-bath process has been used, the 



CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 



281 



leather is full of corrosive acids, which when left in the 
stock cause serious damage to it. These foreign materials 
must be gotten rid of and the leather perfectly neutralized 
before successful coloring and finishing can be attained. 
The skins are therefore subjected to a very thorough process 
of washing. The first water in which they are washed may 
be a borax solution — one-half pound of borax dissolved and 
added for each one hundred pounds of stock as weighed 
before trimming. In this water the leather is washed for 
twenty or thirty minutes or longer, according to the process 
of tanning that was used. Skins full of sulphurous acid 
need to be washed in borax water from thirty minutes to 
one hour. After the washing in borax water the skins are 
washed for twenty minutes in clear running water. By 
this procedure the skins are thoroughly cleansed and put in 
suitable condition for coloring and finishing. 

Striking out, pressing and shaving the skins. 

When the washing is completed, the skins may be struck 
out on machines or pressed or struck out by hand on smooth 
tables in order to remove all the surplus water from them. 
The striking out on the machine also smoothes out the skins, 
removes wrinkles and slightly increases their size. Pressing 
the skins removes the water but does not affect the wrinkles 
in their skin and does not leave the skins smooth. After 
being struck out or pressed the skins are shaved, and 
during the shaving they must be kept from all stain and 
grease, as the leather in this condition absorbs stain and 
grease readily, which interferes with the coloring and 
finishing. By shaving, the skins are made of a uniform 
thickness, and the flesh side becomes clean and smooth, a 
very necessary condition when the leather is to receive a 
glazed finish. 

BLACK CHROME-TANNED CALFSKINS. 

The flesh side of black chrome leather is usually dyed a 



282 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

blue or purple color previous to blacking the grain side. 
The blue back improves the general appearance of the 
leather and also serves as a bottom or foundation for the 
black. For this purpose solutions of logwood and borax or 
sal-soda, blue nigrosines and purple aniline dyes are gener- 
ally used. The use of logwood chips has been somewhat 
displaced during the last few years by the use of logwood 
in extract and powder form. The results that follow the use 
of these articles are better than the results obtained frOm 
the use of even the best grades of chips, since the extracts 
and powders are always uniform in strength and quality. 
Logwood paste is a very excellent form of logwood, the only 
objectionable feature being that when the paste is once 
frozen the color produced is not at all satisfactory, being a 
muddy grey-black. The powdered products of logwood can- 
not be frozen and are consequently always of equal strength 
in cold and warm weather. When logwood paste is used 
from six to eight pounds are dissolved in warm water with 
two pounds of borax or sal-soda, and brought to the boiling 
point. This liquor is sufficiently strong for all purposes,, 
and should it prove stronger than is required it can readily 
be weakened by the addition of water. This solution may 
be used for staining the flesh blue or purple by slightly 
increasing the quantity of sal-soda or of borax and by add- 
ing to it a small quantity of blue or black aniline. The 
latter articles may be omitted. They serve merely to 
change the color from blue to purple. When Hemolin, a 
powdered product of logwood is used, about five pounds of 
the dye and two pounds of either borax or sal-soda, boiled 
for a few minutes in fifty gallons of water, give a satis- 
factory liquor for both flesh coloring and grain blacking. 
When used for flesh coloring ten gallons of the liquor may 
be taken for each hundred pounds of leather, weighed after 
it has been shaved. The skins are drummed in the liquor 
for fifteen or twenty minutes or until the color is well taken 
up and developed, then they are washed off, struck out or 



CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 283 

pressed again, and are ready for the fat-liquor. Or instead 
of this, the skins may be taken from the drum and spread 
on a table and a striker or iron liquor applied over the 
grain. This leaves the flesh blue and the grain black. Or 
the skins may be passed through a blacking machine or 
through dye boxes, and the color changed to black in this 
way. When this is done, the quantity of hemolin or log- 
wood liquor needs to be increased to twenty gallons for each 
one hundred pounds of skins. 

A very desirable blue flesh is obtained from the use of blue 
nigrosine. 

For each dozen skins of medium size, three ounces of 
the nigrosine are boiled for a few minutes in two or three 
gallons of water. This liquor is used at a temperature of 
one hundred and twenty degrees, and the skins drummed 
in it for thirty minutes, then they are rinsed off, struck out 
or pressed and are then fat-liquored and then blacked upon 
the grain. When the leather is insufficiently washed after 
tanning, the blue color will not penetrate as it should. 

A good staining liquor may also be made of the following 
ingredients : 
Three ounces purple aniline dye and two ounces of black 
nigrosine or of black aniline are dissolved by boiling in 
two gallons of water. This solution is mixed with twenty 
gallons of logwood liquor and used in the manner de- 
scribed for blue nigrosine. About ten gallons of this liquor 
will stain one hundred pounds of leather, and produce a 
dark bluish purple. It has one objectionable feature, how- 
ever, and that is the liability to crack off in handling. 
This is not liable to occur when the leather has been pre- 
viously mordanted with some extract containing tannin. 

The most simple and easily prepared stain 
Is a solution of logwood and borax or sal-soda, made up of 
one pound of powdered logwood and a few ounces of borax 



284 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

orsal-soda, boiled in ten gallons of water for each one hun- 
dred pounds of leather, weighed after shaving. This stain 
penetrates freely and makes the flesh a desirable bluish- 
purple. 

Practice in staining, fat-liquoring and dyeing calf-skins. 

Some tanners of calfskins stain and fat-liquor their skins 
at one operation ; others stain, fat-liquor and grain black 
them. The preferred method, however, is to first stain 
them, then to fat-liquor them, and after fat-liquoring to dye 
the grain black. The next process, therefore, is the fat- 
liquoring. By this process the leather is nourished with 
grease and rendered soft and strong. The quality of the 
finished leather depends largely upon the quality of the 
materials used in making the fat-liquor and upon how the 
process is carried out. While it is very important that the 
skins are properly treated in the beam-house processes, and 
thoroughly tanned, it is equally essential that the leather 
is skillfully curried in order that it may take the desired 
finish and be free from gum and grease. Tanners fre- 
quently succeed very well in making chrome leather up to 
the point of greasing it, and then fail or at least encounter 
trouble. 

In order that the finished leather may be soft and dry, 
nothing can be used as a fat-liquor that will make it greasy 
or gummy, as such condition seriously damages the leather 
and interferes with the processes of finishing. The heavy 
oils and greases used by the currier of bark-tanned leather 
when applied to chrome leather produce very unsatisfactory 
results. Chrome leather does not need nor will it absorb 
and carry so much grease as bark leather. The grease must 
be given to the leather in the form of a thoroughly blended 
emulsion, all ingredients of which must be incorporated 
with the other ingredients, in order that the results will be 
uniform and satisfactory. Various materials may be used 
in making fat-liquors, but as a general thing potash soaps 



CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 285 

and oils are used. These are thoroughly emulsified, and 
other articles are added, such as degras and egg yolk accord- 
ing to the class of leather being made. The fat-liquor is 
used warm and drummed into the leather by means of a 
pin-mill drum. A drumming for thirty minutes is usually 
sufficient to enable the leather to absorb all the grease. 

Light calf-skins intended for glazed, dull or boarded finish may 
be fat-liquored with the following emulsion: 

Ten pounds of potash soft soap are placed in a barrel with 
ten gallons of water. Steam is turned in and the soap 
boiled until it is all dissolved. Four gallons of neatsfoot 
oil are cut with a few ounces of potash, sal-soda or borax, 
dissolved in a little water and mixed into the oil. Then 
the oil is poured into the soap solution in the barrel 
and the two articles, soap and oil, are thoroughly stirred 
together. Sufficient water is run in to make a total of forty 
gallons of fat-liquor, and when the temperature of the 
liquor has been reduced to less than one hundred degrees, 
ten pounds of egg yolk are added. The fat-liquor is then 
thoroughly stirred and applied to the skins at a temperature 
of ninety degrees F. The egg yolk should never be added 
until the temperature of the liquor has been lowered con- 
siderably from boiling point. For a common quality of 
leather the egg yolk may be omitted, as good results are 
obtained from the mixture of oil and soap. 

For heavy calf -skins 

Ten pounds of Moellon Degras may be added to the so- 
lution of oil and soap, and the egg yolk omitted. A good 
fat-liquor is also made of forty pounds English sod oil 
and twenty pounds alkaline soft soap, boiled and emul- 
sified as above described, and enough water then run in 
to make fifty gallons of fat-liquor. When no egg yolk is 
used, the fat-liquor may be used at a temperature of one 
hundred and twenty to one hundred and forty degrees. 



286 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The hotter it is, the more readily and uniformly it will 
penetrate the leather, provided the leather is free from sur- 
plus water, and no acids nor tanning materials are left in 
the skins. When the blue color has not penetrated as it 
should, it is sometimes an advantage to add a small quan- 
tity of color to the fat-liquor which will be carried through 
the skins. 

After the leather has been flesh colored, the skins should 
be struck out on the machine or pressed to get rid of 
surplus water and then fat-liquored. A suitable stuffing 
drum is heated with live steam to a temperature of about 
one hundred and forty degrees. Then the steam is let out 
of the drnm and the condensed water is drained out, the 
leather thrown in, the drum closed and run for a few min- 
utes to warm the leather. The fat-liquor is then added 
through the hollow gudgeon of the drum, one or two 
gallons at a time, until the whole quantity required is 
in, then the leather should be drummed in the fat-liquor 
for at least thirty minutes, or until it has taken up all the 
grease, and nothing but water is left behind. 

The quantity of fat-liquor required by a lot of leather 
depends upon how soft the leather is wanted. Too much 
fat-liquor causes the leather to work through greasy, spongy 
and stretchy, while not enough leaves it stiff and like paper. 
Such leather, being insufficiently nourished, is dry and 
harsh and liable to crack and break. From two to four 
gallons of fat-liquor, prepared as suggested, are usualty re- 
quired for each dozen small light skins. Heavy, large 
skins require more. 

At the end of the fat-liquoring process the leather may 
be removed from the drum and thrown over horses or laid 
out flat in piles for some hours, in order that the grease 
may combine with every fibre. Then the skins are grain- 
blacked, provided this has not been done before fat- 
liquoring, as is sometimes the case. When the grain- 
blacking is done by hand or on machine it should not, and 
usually is not done after it has been fat-liquored. 



CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 287 

The grain-blacking may be done by hand with brushes 
on tables, by passing the skins through the coloring 
machine, or by being dyed in trays or dye boxes. All of 
these methods are in general use, the tray and machine 
methods being the most frequently employed. 

For blacking the grain, 
Logwood or some product of logwood is generally used. 
The coloring properties of logwood in powder form are very 
satisfactory. A good coloring liquor is made by boiling 
eight pounds of such powder and two pounds of borax or 
sal-soda in twenty-five gallons of water. Then enough 
water is added to make forty gallons of dye liquor. When 
the grain-blacking is done on a machine the skins are taken 
after fat-liquoring and run through the machine, and the 
dye liquor spread over and brushed into the grain, then 
the color is developed and set by the application of an iron 
liquor or a solution of copperas. 

In tray or box dyeing the skins are folded through the 
centre, grain side out and worked through the dye liquor 
and then through the striker. The skins may also be 
drummed in logwood liquor for fifteen minutes, then spread 
on a table, and the striker applied by hand, or they may 
be run through a machine and the color set in this manner. 
A few fustic chips or a small quantity of fustic extract 
boiled with the dye intensify the black. It is very impor- 
tant that the color be well rubbed into the leather in order 
that the grain will not show grey bottom. 

A good striker may be made 
Of five pounds of copperas and one and one-half pounds of 
blue vitriol dissolved by boiling in a half barrel of water, 
then the barrel may be filled with water. When used on a 
machine twelve pounds of copperas and four pounds of blue 
vitriol are used for a barrel of water. To this are added one 
and one-half pounds of ground nutgalls and one pound of 
•epsom salts to each six pounds of copperas and blue vitriol 



288 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

combined. When the coloring is done on a table a small 
quantity of ammonia should be added to each pailful of dye. 
This is brushed into the leather, then the striker is applied. 
Another coat of dye is given and more striker, then the 
leather is washed off and struck, out. 

A good iron striker 

Is made of three gallons of iron liquor and two pounds of 
copperas dissolved in two quarts of vinegar boiled for a 
few minutes. In place of verdigris blue vitriol may be 
used, three-quarters of a pound dissolved in two quarts of 
boiling water. The liquor should be well stirred and 
not used until the next morning, when the clear liquor 
may be drawn off and diluted for use with two or three 
times its volume of water. Trouble is often met with in 
getting a good black color on chrome leather. This may 
be prevented by mordanting the leather, after it is washed 
from the tanning liquors, with a solution of tannin. Pal- 
metto extract is very good to use in this way, as it leaves 
the grain smooth, and produces a soft feel to the leather. 
For three hundred pounds of chrome leather one and one- 
half quarts of extract and a small quantity of glycerine 
mixed with warm water make an excellent mordant. 

After the grain has been dyed black it should be washed 
off and the leather struck out. Machines are commonly 
used for this work. After striking out an application of 
glycerine and water should be given the grain of the leather, 
equal parts of glycerine and water, put on evenly with a 
soft rag or a sponge. The leather may then be struck out 
again although this is not necessary. Whether the leather 
is struck out or not, a coat of oil is next applied. The oil 
should be warm and applied with a sponge evenly over the 
grain, in quantity according to the condition of the leather 
and the degree of softness desired. Before this oil is put on 
the water should be well gotten out of the leather, so that 
the oil can the more readily penetrate into the leather, 



CALFSKINS AND CHEOME PEOCESSES. 289 

where it will add strength and softness to the grain. The 
oil used in this way is the base of the subsequent finish and 
it behooves the tanner to use good oil. The oil also helps 
the black of the leather. Neatsfoot oil is often used, al- 
though other oils such as a good grade of cod oil and sperm 
oil are commonly used and very often preferred to neatsfoot. 

After the oiling operation 
The leather is dried out in any suitable manner. The 
skins may be stretched in frames, tacked on boards or 
hung up and dried. Usually they are stretched in frames 
or on boards in order that the stretch may be taken out 
and the leather made flat and smooth. After the skins 
become dry they are packed down in damp sawdust to 
moisten and soften them preparatory to being worked out 
and finished. As soon as the damp sawdust has softened 
the skins they are staked on the staking machine, and 
dried again, staked once more and then thoroughly dried. 
The leather is now ready for the final finish. On this 
kind of leather three styles of finish are wanted — smooth 
glazed, dull and boarded or box finish. For a glazed 
finish either smooth or boarded, the skins are cleared of 
greasy matter in the grain, by a dilute solution of lactic 
acid, made up of one gallon acid to three or four gallons of 
water. This is thoroughly rubbed into the grain and the 
leather dried again, after which the seasoning is applied. 
Some leather finishers prepare their seasonings while others 
buy them already prepared, and thus save the labor of 
making them. In many instances it is best for the finisher 
to buy seasoning, as the firms who make this their specialty 
know exactly what is required and supply very superior 
dressings. Levant inks are generally used. They are pro- 
curable ready for use and need only dilution with water. 

A seasoning suitable for calf-skins may be made in the follow- 
ing manner : 

Six ounces of black nigrosine, dissolved in five gallons of 
19 



290* 



PRACTICAL TANNING. 



water, to which are added two pints of blood, five ounces 
of glycerine and eight ounces of ammonia. Logwood 
liquor, blacked with copperas, may be used in place of 
the nigrosine. 

Another formula : 

One pint blue-stone, one-fourth ounce iron, one pint logwood, 
one quart blood, one pint nigrosine. The seasoning or 
glazing liquor should be applied evenly over the grain and 
thoroughly rubbed in. Hand work and machines are used 
forthis work. The less seasoning that is used to produce 
a cleaf', bright finish, the better it is, as the leather so 
treated stands handling better than when a great deal of 
seasoning is used. After the seasoning liquor becomes dry, 
the leather is glazed. A second coat of seasoning is applied 
and the drying and glazing repeated. Sometimes a third 
treatment is necessary. Between the first and second 
glazing it is sometimes an advantage to apply a dilute 
solution of lactic acid or of vinegar and bichromate of 
potash. This seems to clear the bottom and to deepen the 
black. The flesh side of the skins is made soft by scraping 
oil a machine. For smooth, bright finish, the leather is 
finally brushed over lightly with an oily cloth or sponge 
and is finished, while for boarded or box finish, the leather 
is boarded both crosswise and lengthwise, supplemented in 
some instances by printing on a machine, and is ready for 
market. For dull or mat finish, a dull seasoning is applied 
in the same manner as the glazing liquor, and while 
slightly moist, the leather is rolled or ironed. Measuring 
and grading complete the process. 

'i. . 

COLORED CHROME-TANNED CALF-SKINS. 

Before any attempt at coloring chrome-tanned calf-skins 
is made, they should be thoroughly washed and shaved. 
They may then be prepared for the desired shade of color 
by being slightly retanned with palmetto extract. This 



CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 291 

material neutralizes any acid in the skins, and makes the 
grain tough and smooth and firm and in good condition 
without further mordanting to receive an aniline dye. A 
practical method of using the extract for the purpose is to 
treat the skins with the extract liquor in a drum. The liquor 
may be made up of one gallon of extract and one-third of 
a pint of glycerine for one thousand pounds of leather. 
The quantity of water necessary to properly drum the skins 
is used ; and the temperature of the liquor when it is ap- 
plied to the skins should be from ninety to one hundred 
degrees Fah. The stock should be drummed in the liquor 
for thirty minutes, then to the bath, without removing the 
skins from the drum, may be added for each dozen skins, 
about four ounces of tartar emetic or of antimonine, dis- 
solved in one gallon of hot water, and the drumming con- 
tinued for twenty minutes. The use of either of the last 
named articles is for the purpose of preventing spots upon 
the leather, caused by tannin not fully combined with it, 
to clear the grain and to act as a settling agent for the dye. 
The work of mordanting and preparing the skins for color- 
ing may also be done in the paddle-vats or reels. 

In place of palmetto, and with equally good results, sumac may 

be used, 
In drums, about eight or ten ounces of sumac being used 
for each dozen small light skins. Large, heavy skins 
require about one pound of the extract for each dozen. Or, 
the liquor may be made up in a vat at a temperature of 
one hundred and twenty degrees, and the skins paddled or 
stirred about therein for one-half hour or longer, and then 
treated with the clearing agent as above suggested, washed 
off and colored. 

The skins may be prepared with sumac in this manner : 

Two hundred pounds of leather, after washing and shaving, 
are placed in a drum, with a solution of sumac extract 



292 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

made up of eight pounds of extract scalded in six gallons 
of hot water and mixed with about sixty gallons of water 
at a temperature of about one hundred degrees. The ex- 
tract liquor is divided into three portions, the skins and the 
first portion being put into the drum and drummed for 
ten minutes, then another portion of the liquor is added, 
and at the end of five minutes the last portion is put into 
the drum, and the drumming continued for thirty minutes. 
At the end of this time the leather will have absorbed all 
the tannin. Then the tartar emetic may be given to the 
skins, and after a further drumming for fifteen minutes, 
the spent liquor may be run off, the skins washed in luke- 
warm water, and are ready for the dye. Sumac leaves may 
be used in place of the extract ; and for dark shades a 
liquor made up of one-third sumac and two-thirds terra 
japonica or gambier may be used. 

The extract of fustic is another excellent article to use as a 

mordant. 

It may be used for almost any shade, and makes a very 
good bottom for an aniline dye. For some dark shades 
it may be combined with a pure logwood liquor. Morin 
Yellow, Pat., is a product of fustic, and much to be 
preferred over chip fustic. It is an excellent fastener of 
aniline dyes, and with its use full nourished colors are ob- 
tained. The coloring of chrome-tanned calf-skins is best 
accomplished before they are fat-liquored. A few necessary 
precautions to be observed by the dyer are that the skins 
should be perfectly clean and free from grease, stain, dirt 
or tanning materials, such as acid and salt ; that the dyes 
are carefully prepared by being dissolved in boiling water 
and boiled a few minutes and strained before they are used. 
Also that the drum and other vessels used are perfectly 
clean, and the water not only clean, but soft. 



CALFSKINS AND CHEOME PROCESSES. 293 

The following directions will be found of practical value to any 
one attempting to color chrome-tanned calf-shins. 

Any one of the methods of preparing the skins may be 
used. After mordanting and cleansing, the skins should be 
washed off and are then ready for the color solution. 
Chocolate Brown. 1. For one dozen medium-size calf- 
skins, about seven ounces of aniline Chocolate Brown, 270, 
may be used. The skins should be drummed in the color 
solution for twenty minutes, and then washed off and fat- 
liquored. 

2. At a temperature of 120 degrees, a color solution may 
be used, made up of the following dyes in the proportions 
named. Eight ounces of phosphine for leather ; one-half 
ounce leather-green M ; two-thirds of an ounce of dark 
methyl violet, thoroughly dissolved and strained before 
using. 

3. By combining phosphine with leather-brown, in the 
proportions of one-third of the latter to two-thirds of the 
former, a very desirable shade of brown is obtained. 

In every instance, to insure even coloring, the solution of 
dye should be added to the skins either through the funnel 
of the wheel, or the skins should be thrown back upon the 
pins and the color put in at the door. It is always pro- 
ductive of the best results to add the dye in portions, allow- 
ing one portion to be taken up before another one is ap- 
plied. 

Upon skins re-tanned or mordanted with tanning extracts, very 
satisfactory shades of dark wine color, commonly called ox- 
blood, may be obtained by applying the following formulas : 

1. The skins may be run in a solution of dye — six and 
one-half ounces of amaranth 3-R for each dozen skins for 
twenty minutes. Then may be added in the following 
order, two and one-fourth ounces of amaranth 1-R and one 
ounce of chocolate brown, each dye being dissolved and 



294 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

given to the skins separately. A drumming for one-half 
hour completes the process. At the end of the operation it 
may be well to add one ounce of bichromate of potash five 
minutes before stopping the drum. 

2. A good shade of ox-blood is also obtained by using 
from ten to twelve ounces of the aniline amaranth 3-R, for 
each dozen skins, according to the size of the skins. The 
dye should be dissolved in one gallon of boiling water, to 
which a few ounces of glycerine may be added ; and the 
liquor then boiled until the dye is completely dissolved. 
The solution should be strained through a piece of cheese- 
cloth and cooled down to about 120 degrees before it is 
applied to the skins. When tartar emetic is used, nothing 
more is needed to set the color. After a drumming in the 
dye for thirty minutes, the skins may be removed from the 
drum, washed off and fat-liquored. 

3. By combining a dark red aniline with a dark brown, 
for instance, Bismarck brown, a rich shade of ox-blood re- 
sults. About one-third as much brown dye as red dye 
should be used. For one dozen medium skins, seven and 
one-half ounces of the red, and two and one-half ounces of 
the brown may be used. 

Light tan shades : 1. Patent Phosphine G. is an exceed- 
ingly bright color, and when used alone produces a very 
light yellow tan shade. 

2. By combining Patent Phosphine G. with a Bismarck 
brown, a reddish tan is produced. Numerous shades of 
tan, ranging from very light to dark, may be obtained by 
combining the phosphine with browns, and also with blues 
and greens, by which the shades are subdued and mellowed. 
One part leather-brown, and four parts phosphine produce 
a very desirable dark tan. 

Sulfamine dyes may also be used with very satisfactory results 
upon chrome-tanned calf-skins. 

Sulfon Brown B. is a very valuable dye, and by various 



CALFSKINS AND CHROME PROCESSES. 295 

combinations an almost unlimited number of shades are 
made. By using, for example, two and one-quarter ounces 
of Sulfon Brown B., nine and one-half ounces of Sulfon 
Carmine B. and two and one-half ounces of hsematine pow- 
der, in combined solution, a dark rich ox-blood is obtained, 
the quantities of dyes named being for one dozen skins. 

Six ounces of Sulfon Brown B., one-fourth of an ounce of 
Sulfon Carmine B. and one ounce of Urania Blue, produce 
a rich chocolate brown. A shade a trifle lighter than the 
foregoing : Four ounces of Sulfon Brown B., one and one- 
half ounces of Urania Blue, one-half ounce of Sulfon Car- 
mine B. A light chocolate brown : Three and one-half 
ounces of Sulfon Brown B. and one ounce of Urania Blue 
R. For an ox -blood shade : Eleven ounces of Sulfon Car- 
mine B., one-half ounce Sulfamine Yellow D. and three 
ounces of Hsematine Powder. In using these dyes, it is 
generally good practice to add to the color solution a small 
amount of Carbonate of Ammonia, which makes the color 
penetrate more quickly, but this should be neutralized after- 
wards with a little acetic acid. Immediately after dyeing, 
the skins should be fat-liquored, and here care must be exer- 
cised to have the fat-liquor perfectly neutral, as the shades 
are readily injured by any excess of alkali in the fat-liquor. 
For fine light skins, an emulsion or mixture of egg yolk 
and neatsfoot oil makes an admirable fat-liquor. 

Fat-liquoring. 

After the leather has received the right shade of color, 
it should be washed off, struck out or pressed and fat- 
liquored. For heavy skins a fat-liquor may be made of 
soap, oil and degras, in proportion as follows : Ten pounds 
of soap are boiled in a few gallons of water until thor- 
oughly dissolved, then four gallons of neatsfoot oil and six 
pounds of degras are added and the whole thoroughly 
emulsified by boiling and stirring, then enough water is 
run in to make forty gallons of liquor. Very light skins 



296 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

may receive an emulsion of soap, oil and egg yolk in place 
of degras. The fat-liquoring and finishing of colored calf- 
skins is carried out in the same manner as upon black skins. 
Fancy shades should be dried out in a darkened room, and 
must be kept clean. No black dyes or leather should be 
allowed in the same room with light colored stock. Too 
much care cannot be taken with colored leather. 



CHAPTER XVI. 

CALF-SKINS.-VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION- 
TANNED. 

Palmetto extract 

Is a comparatively new tannage, and not so well known 
among tanners as the older processes. It is a perfect sub- 
stitute for gambier, and makes soft, tough leather of very 
light color, well adapted to finishing up into colored or 
black leather. It produces good results when used in 
drums, tanning skins thoroughly in a few hours. The 
skins for this tannage are treated in the usual way in the 
beam-house. They are soaked, fleshed and limed. The 
first lime should be rather weak, and after the skins have 
been therein for one day they may be passed into stronger 
limes, or the weak lime may be strengthened. At the end 
of four or five days the skins are placed in fresh lime made 
up of seventy-five pounds of lime and five pounds of red 
arsenic or sulphide of sodium for fifteen hundred pounds 
of skins. Upon the sixth or seventh day the skins may 
be unhaired and then left a day or two longer in fresh 
lime. They are then washed, bated, worked on the grain, 
washed off again, and are ready for tanning. At the 
beginning of the process the skins may be left in cold 
palmetto liquor of about eight degrees Baume for from one 
to two hours or until they are uniformly colored. Then 
they are tanned in a drum with a palmetto liquor of thirty 
degrees Beaume, 51 Twaddle, at a temperature of eighty- 
five degrees. For seven hundred pounds of skins, weighed 
as they come from the beam-house, four hundred and fifty 
pounds of extract may be used. In about six hours the 

( 297 ) 



298 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

skins are tanned through. Light skins require less time,, 
according to their thickness. After skiving or splitting, 
the leather is retanned for one-half hour in a drum in 
liquor of eight degrees Baume, and then for one hour with 
strength of liquor thirty degrees Beaume. The leather is 
then washed in lukewarm water for twenty minutes. The 
water in which the skins are washed after tanning may be 
used as a coloring liquor for a fresh lot of skins coming 
from the beam-house. After washing, the leather is pressed 
and left in piles for forty-eight hours and is then fat- 
liquored. 

The fat-liquor for this tannage 

May be made of five pounds of potash soap and one gallon 
of degras boiled until dissolved and mixed in one-half barrel 
of water. The drum should be heated to a temperature of 
140 degrees. The quantity of fat-liquor mentioned is suffi- 
cient for four hundred and forty pounds of pressed leather. 
The leather should then be drummed in the fat-liquor for 
thirty minutes ; then placed over horses or in smooth flat 
piles to press and drain for a few hours. The grain is next 
well struck out and given a light coat of oil, after which the 
leather is hung in a warm room and dried. Leather made 
by this tannage may be colored and finished in a great 
variety of ways. 

Hemlock, quebracho, gambler and other tannages. 

Calf-skins are tanned in a number of ways. In addition 
to the palmetto process as above described, hemlock liquors 
are used alone and in combination with other tannages, 
such as quebracho and gambier ; palmetto extract may 
also be combined with hemlock and other materials ; the 
dongola process is used, and also combinations of chrome 
and vegetable processes. The tanning is done in vats 
provided with paddles, by which the tanning liquor is 
stirred and the tanning made uniform and thorough. Vats 



CALFSKINS VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION-TANNED. 299 

without paddles are also used, and some tanners tan thin 
skins in pin mill drums exclusively. Still tanning, by 
which the skins are not violently agitated, produces the 
plumpest and best filled leather, especially in the flanks and 
along the sides. 

Some tanners start the skins in hemlock liquor and finish 
them up in gambier, palmetto or dongola liquor. Gambier 
has long been a staple tanning material, and largely used 
by the makers of fine light leathers. The leather made 
with gambier is soft and tough and can be colored and 
finished in any desired manner. Very good leather is made 
by combining gambier with a chrome or mineral process. 
When gambier is used alone, the tanning is a very simple, 
straighforward process. The skins are usually started in a 
weak liquor and this is gradually strengthened by the 
addition of fresh gambier until it becomes strong towards 
the end of the process. Common salt is very useful in 
gambier tanning. It helps to make soft leather and also 
hastens the tanning process and prevents contraction of 
the fibres. Heavy skins, after becoming well struck with 
the tanning liquor, are split and then re-tanned in gam- 
bier. Palmetto extract is very useful in the re-tanning 
of calf-skins. It puts the leather into condition to stand 
heat well and to take and carry grease, and it also toughens 
the leather and makes it more waterproof. Skins can be 
started in a gambier liquor and tanned out of a palmetto 
liquor. The leather, after the tanning is completed, may 
be strengthened and cleared by being milled in a drum 
in a solution of alum and salt. In about thirty gallons 
of water are dissolved fifteen pounds of alum and ten 
pounds of salt, this quantity of liquor being enough for 
two hundred and forty skins. In this solution the skins 
are drummed for thirty minutes, and should then be allowed 
to drain well. It is well to remove the surplus tanning 
liquor by washing the leather in a drum in lukewarm 
water for about twenty minutes. Then the leather is ready 



300 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

for pressing, fat-liquoring and drying out ; or it may be 
dried out first and then moistened and fat-liquored. 

Skins may be tanned in liquors made up of palmetto 
and hemlock or other extracts in almost any proportion, 
and then retanned in the same liquors or in a straight 
palmetto liquor. Tanning extracts are combined in vari- 
ous ways. Quebracho and gambier are used in combina- 
tion, also quebracho and hemlock. Quebracho is an excel- 
lent tanning material, but when it is used alone it does hot 
plump the leather enough. The best results are obtained 
when it is combined with other materials. The color of 
quebracho tanned skins may be improved by the addition 
to the liquor of a small quantity of divi-divi. Quebracho 
is very useful in tanning calf-skins for patent or enameled 
leather, on account of the pliability of the leather made 
with it. When quebracho is combined with hemlock ex- 
tract the leather made is very tough and soft and of a fair 
uniform color and well filled. The liquor may be two- 
thirds quebracho and one-third hemlock, used either in 
drums or vats. 

Re-tanning chrome leather with gambier or palmetto. 

Leather that has been made by a chrome process may be 
retanned with gambier or palmetto. The latter extract 
has the good effects of neutralizing any trace of acid left in 
the leather, and also serves to put the leather in good con- 
dition to receive any shade of color or black. The grain 
is made smooth and remains so. For the retanning of three 
thousand pounds of chrome tanned calf-skins three gallons 
of palmetto extract and one pint of glycerine may be used. 
The extract is dissolved in the quantity of warm water re- 
quired ; and the liquor when used should be at a temper- 
ature of 90 degrees Fall. When a one-bath process is used 
the skins may be tanned first in chrome liquors in drums 
or paddle-vats and then retanned in gambier or palmetto ; 
or they can be given a light tanning with the extract and 



CALFSKINS VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION-TANNED. 301 

then tanned in the* chrome liquors. Heavy calfskins may 
be split before tanning after the liming process, which has 
been made possible by recent improvements on splitting 
machines, and the grains, after bating and drenching, may 
be tanned in any process of tanning, and the fleshes or 
splits drenched and made into glove leather. 

Ons-bath chrome liquors are handled in much the same 
manner as bark or gambier liquors, that is to say, the skins 
are entered into a weak liquor containing to each one hun- 
dred gallons of water, two or three gallons of chrome liquor, 
and the bath is gradually strengthened by the addition of 
chrome liquor until it contains from four to six gallons of 
the same to each one hundred gallons of water. The tan- 
ning is also done in drums. 

Hemlock or combination liquors for calfskins and kips. 
Heavy calfskins and kips are sometimes tanned in hem- 
lock or combination liquors, and after splitting are retanned 
in gambier, or dongola liquor made up of salt, alum and 
gambier. Hemlock is a good filler, but is of a very harsh 
nature. Skins tanned in hemlock are much improved by 
the subsequent treatment with gambier or dongola liquors. 
These materials tone down the harshness of the hemlock 
and produce a soft silky feel on the leather. The leather is 
made supple, firm and tough, and put in good condition to 
receive and retain the black. When gambier is used in 
this way the liquor may be prepared by boiling two hun- 
dred and fifty pounds of the same in eighty gallons of 
water. The skins, sixty in number, or thirty sides, are put 
into the drum with ten gallons of the gambier liquor, to 
which may be added a pailful of dry American sumac, and 
the amount of water considered necessary. A running in 
this liquor for thirty minutes is sufficient. 

A good dongola liquor. 
A good dongola liquor may be made of the following 
proportions : In one hundred gallons of water are dissolved 



302 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

by boiling thirty pounds of salt, and forty pounds of alum. 
These should be boiled until they are thoroughly dissolved. 
One hundred and eighty pounds of gambier are boiled in 
two hundred and fifty gallons of water until dissolved, and 
the gambier liquor and the alum and salt solution are then 
mixed together in a vat or tub. By the addition of one 
hundred gallons more of water, and one quart of sulphuric 
acid, there are made five hundred gallons of dongola liquor. 
The skins may be tanned from the first in this dongola 
process, either in drums or vats, and very desirable leather 
is in this way made. When the tanning or the retanning 
in dongola liquor is finished the leather is washed and 
pressed, and then given some oil in a drum. Three gallons 
of neatsfoot oil may be used for this purpose for each three 
hundred pounds of leather. Fish oil may also be used. 
The leather is drummed in the oil for twenty minutes, then 
hung up and dried out. The oil prevents the grain from 
cracking during drying. The skins are then stored away 
until they are to be finished. 

When the dongola process is used from the beginning the 
skins may be pickled after bating and washing in salt, sul- 
phuric acid and water — five hundred gallons of the latter, 
two hundred pounds of salt and thirty-five pounds of acid 
being used and the skins stirred about in the liquor for 
about six hours. Then they are entered into the salt, 
alum, and gambier liquor. One way of making up the 
liquor is to prepare a gambier solution of about six degrees 
barkometer, to which are added ten pounds of alum and 
seven pounds of salt for each one hundred gallons of liquor. 
When tanned, the skins are drained or pressed, and in the 
case of heavy skins or kips they are split, and then retanned 
in a gambier liquor. The leather can also be made 
by applying first the alum and salt and then the gambier 
liquor. The splits may be tanned in various ways accord- 
ing to what they are to be used for. The best way to treat 
splits full of alum and salt is to mill them in a drum in a 



CALFSKINS VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION-TANNED. 303 

weak gambier liquor until they are thoroughly softened. 
Then they may be tanned in bark or extract liquors and 
filled. In this way no salt and alum will be left in the 
stock to spew out upon the surface after the leather is dried 
out. To wash the splits in water previous to putting them 
in the bark or extract liquors makes them flat and lacking 
in plumpness. It would be impossible to plump them 
again and nothing but flat and lifeless leather would result. 
By milling them in gambier liquor the plumpness and full- 
ness are retained. The splits are tanned in almost as many 
ways as the grains. Hemlock, quebracho, bark and com- 
bination processes are used, according to the qualities re- 
quired in the leather. 

To fat-liquor combination and vegetable-tanned calfskins. 

When the tanning in gambier or other vegetable tannage 
is completed, the skins should be removed from the tanning 
liquor and thoroughly pressed, so as to remove the surplus 
liquor and then left in piles for forty-eight hours. The 
stuffing drum should be heated to about one hundred de- 
grees, and one gallon of oil added for every hundred pounds 
of stock weighed after pressing and draining. Let the 
skins run in this until the oil is well taken up and ab- 
sorbed, which requires about forty minutes ; then take the 
leather from the drum and hang it up and let it dry out. 
After drying, the stock should be weighed and then wet in 
a tub and piled up for a number of hours to soften. This 
is better than softening in a drum, as it does not pipe the 
grain. The skins may be shaved at this point and then 
put into the drum and run with just enough water to 
soften all parts alike. Any excess of water should be 
drained off, and the leather next given the fat-liquor. The 
temperature of the drum should be about 120 degrees. 
For every one hundred pounds of dry weight stock, the 
maximum quantity of fat-liquor is twenty gallons. This 
quantity is sometimes too much, and a smaller quantity 



304 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

may often be used and the leather still be quite soft 
enough. The leather should be drummed in this fat-liquoi 
until all the grease is taken up ; then it should be hung 
up and dried out again. 

Other fat liquors. 

A very good fat-liquor may be compounded as follows : 
About twenty-five gallons of water are put into a barrel. 
To this are added twenty-five pounds of suitable potash soft 
soap, and this boiled until it is thoroughly dissolved. 
Then about fifty pounds of English sod oil and one and 
one-half gallons of neatsfoot oil are added and the mixture 
thoroughly stirred until completely combined. It is good 
practice to cut the oil before using it by pouring into and 
stirring a few ounces of sal-soda or borax dissolved in hot 
water. Enough water is next added to make a total of 
fifty gallons of fat-liquor. 

Fat-liquors may also be made according to the following 
formulas : Ten pounds of suitable soft soap are boiled in 
ten gallons of water until all is dissolved. To the soap 
solution are then added four gallons of neatsfoot oil and ten 
pounds of degras, and the ingredients are thoroughly 
mixed together by boiling and stirring. Enough water is 
then added to make fifty gallons of fat-liquor. Three 
pails soft soap, four gallons sod oil, two pounds borax, ten 
pounds degras, also makes a good fat-liquor. Five pounds 
degras, three pounds cod oil, three pounds neatsfoot oil 
and two pounds paraffine oil may be used. After the fat- 
liquoring of the leather is completed, the stock should be 
hung up and dried out. 

THE COLORING AND FINISHING OF VEGETABLE AND COMBI- 
NATION TANNED CALFSKINS. 

After becoming thoroughly dried out the skins may be 
kept in storage for some time before they are colored and 
finished. When the coloring and finishing operacions are 



CALFSKINS VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION-TANNED. 305 

to be carried out, the dried leather is moistened in warm 
water and placed in piles for twenty-four hours, to become 
thoroughly moistened through and soft. For black leather 
the flesh is next colored blue or yellow as may be desired. 

For a blue flesh a solution of logwood is most com- 
monly used. To the logwood solution may be added a 
few ounces of blue aniline or of nigrosine. Of logwood 
extract, paste or powder, one pound of the same may be 
boiled with a few ounces of borax or sal-soda in ten gallons 
of water and used for each one hundred pounds of leather. 
The leather is milled in the color solution for twenty min- 
utes, then removed from the drum and dyed black upon 
the grain with logwood and striker. A stronger solution 
than that mentioned above may be used, and after the 
leather has been drumming in the same for twenty minutes, 
it may be spread on a table or run through a machine and 
the color developed by the application of the striker. This 
method gives a blue flesh and black grain. 

A good blue flesh is obtained from the use of blue 
nigrosine. For twenty-four skins of medium size, eight 
ounces of nigrosine are used. This is dissolved in boiling 
water and applied to the leather at a temperature of 90 
degrees Fah. A running in this liquor for twenty minutes 
enables the leather to absorb all the dye, after which it may 
be blacked upon the grain, oiled off and dried out. 

For yellow flesh, the stock should be uniformly and 
thoroughly moistened. The one-half pail of sumac is 
scalded for two hours in a closed vessel. When it is wanted 
for use, to the sumac liquor one gallon of lactracine and four 
pails of water are added. This quantity of liquor is suffi- 
cient for ninety calf-skins of average size. The temperature 
of the liquor should be from ninety to one hundred degrees, 
and the leather milled in the solution for thirty minutes. 
Then the skins should be piled up on both sides of the 
drum and the color solution added. One pound of Yellow 
S. is dissolved in one-half barrel of water. After the drum- 
20 



306 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ming in the sumac, four pailfuls of the color liquor are 
added to the sumac bath and the leather is drummed 
therein for ten minutes, or until the latter is permeated 
with the yellow dye. The grain is next blacked with log- 
wood and striker, then well set out, oiled lightly and the 
leather dried out and finished in any desired way. In 
place of the sumac, fustic may be used. Morin Yellow is a 
product of fustic, and superior to chip fustic. It is excel- 
lent as a mordant upon any class of leather. It is readily 
dissolved in boiling water and used in the same manner as 
described for sumac. 

In dyeing leather black upon the grain 

Some form of logwood is generally used. Logwood chips, 
logwood extract in paste and solid and liquid form are used ; 
also the powdered products of logwood such as Hemolin 
XS Patd., Hematoxylin, and Hsemetine. The use of log- 
wood chips in leather dyeing has been greatly supersceded 
during the last few years by the use of logwood in powder 
and extract form. The results gotten from the use of these 
articles are better and more uniform than the results ob- 
tained from the use of chips, since the extracts and pow- 
ders, and especialW the latter, are always uniform in 
strength and quality. Logwood paste is very excellent so 
long as it does not get frozen. When once frozen the color 
produced is not satisfactory, being a muddy grey black. 
This trouble is not met with in using the powders. Log- 
wood chips require a very thorough and long boiling to get 
the color all extracted. 

When the logwood paste is used from six to eight pounds 
of the same are dissolved in forty gallons of warm water 
with one-half pound of borax or sal-soda, and brought to 
the boiling point. This liquor is very strong and may be 
reduced in strength by the addition of more water. Hem- 
olin and other powdered dyes are used in the proportion of 
about six pounds of the powder to a barrel of water. The 



CALFSKINS VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION-TANNED. 307 

dye is first boiled for a few minutes in one-half barrel of 
water and then the barrel is filled. From one to two 
pounds of borax or sal-soda may be added to the dye liquor. 
A few fustic chips may also be boiled with it and serve to 
intensify the color. 

The leather may be blacked in a drum, on a machine, on 
tables or by being folded and passed through the dye in 
boxes or trays. It is first given the logwood dye, and then 
the striker. Sometimes two or three applications of the dye 
are required to get a satisfactory black, according to the 
strength of the liquors. 

Strikers, as they ave commonly called, which are used to develop 
the color, are made according to the following recipes: 

(1) Four and one-half pounds of copperas, and one and 
one-half pounds of blue vitriol, dissolved in one-half barrel 
of water by boiling. Then the barrel is filled with water. 
For use in machine dyeing twelve pounds of copperas and 
four pounds of blue vitriol are used for each barrel of water. 
Te this are added one and one-half pounds of ground nut- 
galls, and one pound of Epsom salts to each six pounds of 
copperas and blue vitriol combined. 

(2) Nine pounds of copperas, four ounces sulphate of 
magnesia, six ounces acetic acid and one ounce nutgalls, 
mixed together and dissolved by boiling in ten gallons of 
water, and then turned into a barrel, and enough water 
added to make forty gallons. 

(3) Three gallons iron liquor, two pounds of copperas, 
dissolved and mixed together. Three quarters of a pound 
of verdigris dissolved in two quarts of vinegar and added 
to the copperas and iron liquor. In place of verdigris, three 
quarters of a pound of blue-stone dissolved in two quarts 
boiling water may be used. The liquor should be well 
stirred and allowed to settle, and the clear liquor only used. 

(4) Nine pounds of copperas, one-fourth pound of Epsom 
salts, six ounces of acetic acid and one ounce of nutgalls. 
Forty gallons of water. 



308 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Soft water, or better still, condensed steam should always 
be used in making blacking, dye liquors and finishes. 

After the grain of the leather is dyed black, it should be 
washed off with warm water, and well set out. Then a 
light coat of oil should be applied evenly over the leather, 
and the leather then hung up and dried out. 

For a dull finish, the leather is given an application of a 
dull dressing and then ironed or rolled. For glazed finish, 
a different kind of dressing is used than for dull finish. 
A coat of the dressing or seasoning is applied evenly over 
the grain and well rubbed. The leather is hung in a warm 
room to dry, and when it is dry it is glazed upon the glaz- 
ing machine. Two, and even three applications of the 
glazing liquor and two and three workings upon the 
machine are required to produce a bright, deep and lasting 
gloss. In regard to seasoning liquors, it is very often bet- 
ter for the tanner to buy seasonings prepared by firms who 
make that their business, than to attempt to make his own 
seasonings. The seasonings that the tanner buys ready for 
use at the present time are of very excellent quality. Many 
tanners buy all the leather dressings, while others prepare 
them themselves. 

In order to get a perfectly satisfactory finish it is neces- 
sary that the seasoning should be thoroughly rubbed into 
the leather. The grain must be free from grease. A dilute 
solution of lactic acid in water applied over the grain, well 
rubbed in and dried before the seasoning is applied, does a 
great deal towards getting a clear, bright finish. 

The receipes given for seasonings, in other parts of this 
book, produce very good results upon calf-skins. 

Gambier, palmetto and combination-tanned calf-skins. 

Gambier, palmetto and combination-tanned calf-skins and 
sides intended for colored leather, after being fat-liquored 
are dried out, are then moistened in warm water in a tub 
and placed in piles for a number of hours to become 



CALFSKINS VEGETABLE AND COMBINATION-TANNED. 309 

thoroughly softened. To prepare them for any shade of 
color they are, preferably, milled in a drum in a solution 
of sumac prepared in the following manner : For sixty 
medium sides or ninety average calf-skins, one-half of a pail 
of sumac is scalded in a closed vessel for two hours. To 
the sumac solution are added four pails of water and one 
gallon of Lactracine. The temperature of this liquor when 
it is applied to the skins or sides should be 100 dgefees 
Fah., and the leather should be run in the same for twenty- 
five minutes. This prepares the leather for the process of 
coloring, and is a very practical method, simple and easy 
to use and always productive of good results. It can be 
applied to skins and sides tanned in any process or com- 
bination of processes. 

In some instances it is not necessary to use sumac for the 
purpose of freshening up the leather, depending upon the 
nature of the tannage and the condition of the leather. It 
is always good practice, however, to thoroughly soften the 
stock before applying any dye to it ; and it is also w T ell to 
wash the leather in warm water in order to remove from 
it all the particles of dirt, dust and tannin. 

In the treatment of leather that has acquired a dark 
color from the tannage, it is advantageous to bleach the 
stock before coloring it. Practical methods of bleaching 
leather are given in another chapter. They produce good 
results when applied to calf-skins and sides. 

Preparing the skins by the use of tartar emetic and antimonine. 

When leather has been freshened up in a sumac bath, 
it is apt to contain uncombined tannin, which has a tend- 
ency to cause uneven and cloudy coloring. To prevent 
such a result, tartar emetic or antimonine may be used. In 
using either of these articles, the leather is first milled in 
a sumac liquor. This may consist of one pound of extract 
of sumac in the required quantity of water at 100° F., 
for four dozen medium-sized skins or thirty-two average 



310 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

sides. In this liquor the leather is drummed for twenty 
minutes, then for the quantity of stock mentioned one-half 
of a pound of either tartar emetic or antimonine may be 
dissolved in warm water and added to the leather and 
sumac, and the drumming continued twenty minutes 
longer, when the grain will be cleared and ready for the 
aniline dye. No bichromate of potash or other setting 
agent will be required, as the aniline will be fixed firmly 
and evenly upon the leather. The leather should be 
washed off before it is colored. Aniline and sulphamine 
dyes are used almost exclusively in coloring leather. They 
produce very good results, and the number of shades that 
can be produced with them and by combining two or more 
colors, is almost unlimited. 

Aniline dyes on vegetable tanned stock. 

Practical instructions regarding the use of these dyes and 
specific directions for combining two or more dyes to pro- 
duce various shades, are given as applied to chrome tanned 
skins. The instructions given may be followed out in col- 
oring vegetable tanned stock, by preparing the leather as 
above suggested, and using the dyes as directed for chrome 
tanned leather. The coloring must be done carefully and 
cleanly, in order to get deep and uniform coloring. After 
the leather has assumed the desired shade it should be 
washed off, set out and dried out. Some tanners color their 
leather before fat-liquoring it, others afterwards ; and some 
fat-liquor their stock, dry it out and color it, and then give 
it a second application of fat-liquor. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

CALF-SKINS TANNED FOR GLOVE AND MITTEN 
PURPOSES. 

Alum, processes. 
Very soft white leather, of excellent texture and strength, 
adapted to any purpose for which such leather is required, 
maybe made from calfskins by any alum process lhe 
skins may be prepared in the usual way of soaking, lining 
and bating. By pickling the skins in a bath of water, sul- 
phuric acid and salt previous to tanning, they are bleached 
a perfect white, and this is something of an advantage 
Before they are treated with alum and salt the acid must 
be gotten rid of, or the leather will be hard and stiff and 
lacking in strength when it is finished. To accomplish the 
removal of the acid and the neutralization of the skins a 
drench of sour bran and salt may be used, also a drench of 
whiting and salt. Either of these may be used alone, or 
the whiting and salt method may be applied to the skins 
and then a light sour bran drench used. All traces of whit- 
ing must be washed off either in the bran drench or in 
warm salt water, before the skins are tanned. The use oi 
the salt is absolutelv necessary to keep the skins from swell- 
ing When no pickling process is used, and it is not nec- 
essary to use it, the skins are bated and washed and cleaned, 
and are then ready for tanning. For every hundred pounds 
of skins to be tanned a solution may be prepared of twelve 
gallons of water at a temperature of 90 degrees Fan six 
pounds of alum, six pounds of salt, twenty pounds of wheat 
flour and twelve pounds of egg yolk, all thoroughly mixed 
together and applied to the skins in a drum. The skins 
may be drummed in the liquor for one hour, then removed 

(311) 



312 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and dried out. After drying they should be allowed to lie 
in crust for some weeks and even months, the longer the 
better, to cure. They may then be moistened, staked, dried 
and finished, and will work out into very soft white leather. 
The soluble oil commonly called Turkey red oil is well 
suited to replace the egg yolk. 

The skins may be pressed after drenching and passed 
through a warm solution of the oil, made up of ten gallons 
of the same in one hundred gallons of warm water, and 
then dried out. Then they may again be treated with the 
oil and then tanned with the alum liquor. The leather is 
made remarkably flexible and soft and has a very fine ap- 
pearance. To the oil . solution some carbolic acid may be 
added to prevent heating of the skins while they are stored 
away to cure. A very desirable leather may also be made 
by moistening back the dried skins and tanning them in a 
one-bath chrome liquor. After tanning, the skins may be 
washed in borax water and then bleached in a warm bath 
of sumac, dried out and finished in white, or they may be 
colored any shade of color after the sumac bath. 

Good leather can also be made 
By drumming the prepared skins in a solution of four pounds 
of sulphate of alumina and ten pounds of common salt, 
wheat-flour and egg yolk being omitted. The skins may be 
drummed in the alum and salt, made into solution with ten 
gallons of water for one hour. Then, for every hundred 
pounds of skins in the drum, ten pounds of hyposulphite of 
soda may be dissolved in six gallons of water and added to 
the contents of the drum, and the drumming continued for 
twenty minutes. This serves to make the tawing permanent. 
To further plump the skins, thinned by the hyposulphite 01 
soda, two pounds more of sulphate of alumina and four 
pounds of salt may be dissolved and added to the skins, 
and the drumming continued for one-half hour, after which 
the skins may be dipped into cold water and finished by 



CALFSKINS FOR GLOVE AND MITTEN PURPOSES. 313 

being fat-liquored with an emulsion of soap and oil, or a 
combination of egg. yolk and olive oil, in the same manner 
as these articles are applied to goat-skins for kid leather. 
The leather is then dried out and worked soft and is finished. 
The quantities of egg yolk and olive oil required for one 
hundred pounds of skins are about ten pints of egg yolk 
and five pints of olive oil. A good fat-liquor ma} 7 also be 
made for this class of stock of five pounds of soap, two 
gallons of neatsfoot oil and five pounds of egg yolk in 
twenty gallons of water. The soap should first be boiled 
into a solution and then the oil added, and the temperature 
of the emulsion reduced to seventy degrees by the addition 
of cold water, after which the egg yolk is added. From two 
to three gallons of this fat-liquor are required by each 
dozen skins of small and medium size, according to size 
and thickness and degree of softness wanted by the tanner. 
The Napa process, described in another portion of this 
book, may be used upon calf-skins intended for white 
leather with good results. 

Soft and tough glove leather 

May be made from calf-skins by the following process : After 
the drenching and washing of the raw skins is completed 
they are treated with a solution, composed for two hundred 
skins, of the following ingredients : Twenty pounds of salt, 
thirty pounds of white rock potash, and three hundred gal- 
lons of water. The skins may be left in this solution for 
about two hours, or they may be processed in a drum for 
thirty minutes, less water being used in the drum method 
than in the paddle-vat. After this, they are wrung out 
dry and immersed in a solution composed of twelve pounds 
of hard soap and two gallons of neatsfoot oil in one hun- 
dred and fifty gallons of water. In this solution the skins 
are left long enough to become thoroughly moistened with 
it and are then removed and hung up and dried out again. 
They are treated in this way, wetting in the liquor and 



314 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

drying out, two or three times. After being treated in this 
way, they are taken in the dr} 7 state and put into clean 
water and washed in a thorough manner to remove the sur- 
plus tanning-matter from them, and in this moist condition 
are colored any shade desired, or they may be smoked, or 
dried out without either coloring or smoking, and when 
this is done they make white leather. 

A similar process is the following : 
The skins ready for tanning are treated with a liquor 
composed of two pounds of caustic soda, one pound of 
borax and enough water to cover the skins ; say one hun- 
dred gallons. The quantities named are sufficient for one 
hundred and twenty average size skins. The skins are 
drummed in this liquor for one-half hour and are then 
removed and hung up and dried out. The dried skins are 
next placed in a solution composed of five pounds of hard 
soap, one gallon of straits-oil, one-half pound of caustic 
soda and seventy-five gallons of water. In this liquor the 
skins are left until they have become thoroughly moistened 
through and soft, after which they are placed in a drum 
with some of the liquor and drummed therein for one-half 
hour, being then removed and dried out as before. The 
skins are next drummed again in some of the second solu- 
tion, and then hung up and dried out again. Sometimes 
this process needs to be repeated two or three times until 
good leather results. They may be colored any shade, or 
smoked, and will be found to be very soft, tough and strong. 

Making glove leather of calfskin fleshers. 
For split calf-skin, the grains of which are tanned for shoe 
leather, good glove leather can be made from the flesh split 
in the following manner: For two dozen fleshes of average 
size a solution is prepared of one pound of alum, two gal- 
lons of water, one pound of flour, with one gill of oil and 
enough water to make a total of three gallons of liquor. 
The skins are drummed in this liquor for one-half hour, 



CALFSKINS FOR GLOVE AND MITTEN PURPOSES. 315 

after which they are allowed to drain and are then drummed 
in a liquor composed of one gill of ammonia, one-half 
bar of soap, one-half ounce of soda, one-half pound of salt, 
and about two ounces of ochre, all boiled in two gallons of 
water until they are dissolved. To this liquor is added 
one pound of flour, mixed in two gallons of water. The 
skins are drummed in this liquor for thirty minutes, then 
dried out, staked and finished upon either side. The fleshes 
may be treated in the first liquor and dried out without the 
use of the second liquor. In the majority of cases it is 
best to use the entire process, and when finished the skins 
are very soft and tough and of very fine texture. 

A simple method of tanning calfskins 
That results in the making of a leather as soft as chamois,, 
consists of giving the skins a long and thorough liming and 
a very thorough drenching and washing, draining them and 
then giving them heavy coats of oil, on both the grain and 
flesh sides, rolling them up and after letting them lie for a 
few days, drying them out. The oil may also be applied in 
a drum. After the skins become dry they should be washed 
in warm soapsuds, and the suds left in the skins, and the 
leather dried out again. During the drying the skins should 
be worked until they become thoroughty soft and dry. The 
drying of the leather should take place in a moderately 
warm room, so that they will not be parched, and during the 
drying they should be worked occasionally so that the dry- 
ing and softening will be accomplished at the same time. 
The work may be hastened and better results secured by 
working the oil into the skins in specially constructed mills. 

Essential qualities of glove leather. 
The two most essential qualities of glove-leather are soft- 
ness and strength. Chrome processes are especially adapted 
to this class of leather, as they make soft tough leather that 
is comparatively waterproof. To a great extent, the soft- 
ness of the leather is produced by the nature of the tannage 



316 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and the methods used in preparing the skins for tanning. 
Calf-skins intended for glove-leather are generally more 
thoroughly limed than skins for shoe purposes. To ac- 
complish the removal of the hair and the preparation of 
the skins for tanning, limes to which sulphide of sodium or 
red arsenic had been added are generally used. The re- 
sults obtained from the use of these two articles are very 
similar, yet red arsenic is ofttimes preferred to sulphide of 
sodium when an extra fine grain is wanted. Its use readily 
removes the hair, also the fine hairs, and leaves the skins 
with considerable fullness of body and with a smooth 
elastic grain. When the tanned leather is to be colored 
fancy shades it is very important that clean soaks and limes 
be used in order to avoid clouded or mottled grain, which 
often results when dirty soaks or limes are used. Lightly 
salted calf-skins need to be soaked only for a few hours, 
and should be drained well before they are passed into the 
liming process. Borax, dissolved and added to the water 
used in these preliminary processes, helps in giving to the 
skins the smooth and silky feel so much desired. The liming 
process need not extend over eight days ; and considerable 
lime should be used. The placing of light calf-skins in a 
very strong fresh lime at the start frequently causes the 
grain to become loose from the flesh, especially when either 
sulphide of sodium or red arsenic is mixed with the lime. 
For convenient handling, the skins are tied together or 
fastened together with hooks before the} 7 go into the limes. 
Good results are obtained from the use of limes that have 
been used for previous packs of skins, provided the} 7, are 
kept clean and not allowed to become full of dirt and refuse. 

Limes. 

A good first lime maj^ consist of two-thirds old lime liquor 
and one-third new lime, that is, of six feet of lime liquor, 
four feet may be old and two feet may be new. When it- 
is necessary to prepare a new lime, about one hundred 



CALFSKINS FOR GLOVE AND MITTEN PURPOSES. 61 i 

pounds of lime are slaked in twelve pailfuls of hot water. 
To this quantity five or six pounds of red arsenic are used. 
It may be dissolved separately and then mixed with the 
slaked lime. These quantities are sufficient for five hun- 
dred calf-skins to begin with. After being in the lime 
liquor for one day, the skins should be hauled out and the 
lime stirred up from the bottom of the vat and the liquor 
strengthened by the addition of three or four pails of 
slaked lime. The strength of arsenic limes at the begin- 
ning should be about three degrees Twaddle, and by daily 
additions of lime and arsenic raised up to six degrees. The 
strength is a somewhat arbitrary matter and may vary con- 
siderably and yet produce good results. 

Advantages of using sulphide of sodium and red arsenic. 
When sulphide of sodium is used, it is used in much the 
same manner as red arsenic. These chemicals not only 
shorten the time of liming, but they also keep the grain from 
becoming rough and by making the lime more soluble, 
make it easier for the tanner to remove the lime without 
injury to the skins. To get soft leather, the lime must be 
gotten entirely rid of before tanning by thorough drenching. 
Calf-skins, however, are very tender, and require careful 
treatment during this part of the work. The bran drench 
has long been used. It gives the skins a smooth soft grain, 
but is somewhat uncertain in its results. The grain of the 
skins is often damaged by an undeveloped bran drench, it 
being very important that the fermentation be fully devel- 
oped before entering the skins, in order for the drench to do 
its full work. Lactic acid is used with good results upon 
this class of leather and, being safe and simple, is a favorite 
article for the purpose. The method of using it has been 
fully described in other parts of this work. 

Pickling calfskins. 
To bleach the skins, to remove the last trace of lime and to 
get them in such condition that they will tan readily with- 



318 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

out contraction of the fibres, the skins may be pickled after 
•drenching, in a solution of sulphuric acid, water and salt. 
This solution may consist of two and one-half quarts of 
acid and fifty pounds of salt for every one hundred skins. 
The skins are left in this liquor, with frequent stirring, for 
six hours, and are then taken out and drained well before 
they are tanned. 

Making calfskin glove leather by a one-bath chrome process. 

The best method of tanning the pickled skins with a one- 
bath process is carried out in the following manner : The 
skins are drummed for ten minutes in a solution of salt 
consisting of ten pounds of salt dissolved in five gallons of 
water for every one hundred pounds of skins. Then they 
are given a solution of sulphate of alumina and sal-soda, 
prepared by dissolving, by boiling three pounds of sulphate 
of alumina in five gallons of water, and three pounds of 
sal-soda dissolved in five gallons of water, for every one 
hundred pounds of pickled skins. The two solutions are 
mixed slowly together and form a milky white liquor. The 
above liquor should be given to the skins after they have 
been drummed in the salt water, and drummed therein for 
at least three-quarters of an hour. Then the concentrated 
tanning liquor is added to the contents of the drum, a 
gallon for each hundred pounds of skins at a time, at in- 
tervals of one-half hour, and the drumming continued for 
at least three, hours, or until the skins are well struck 
through with the ehrome liquor, after which one-half pound 
of salts of tartar is dissolved and added to the contents of the 
drum and the drumming continued for one-half to three- 
quarters of an hour. This completes the tanning. The 
skins tanned in this way are of smooth, fine grain and 
fairly plump. They require a very thorough washing be- 
fore they are colored, fat-liquored and dried out. 



CALFSKINS FOR GLOVE AND MITTEN PURPOSES. 319 

Other processes of chrome tanning. 
To tan the calf-skins without first pickling them fre- 
quently results in the grain of the leather being somewhat 
drawn. This is not considered a serious defect, however, on 
glove leather. Sometimes, too, the drenched skins are first 
tanned in sulphate of alumina and salt and this is followed 
by the chrome process. It usually requires about three 
gallons of concentrated tanning liquor to tan one hundred 
pounds of skins, although the quantity varies according to 
the nature of the liquor used. Any of the methods of tan- 
ning skins with one bath liquors that have been described, 
may be used in making calf-skin glove leather ; also any of 
the two bath or acid processes. When the latter are used 
no previous pickling is required. A good suggestion to 
follow is to sort the skins before tanning them, into three 
grades, light, medium and heavy. The first bath of chromic 
acid is generally applied in a drum and the second bath in 
a vat. In order to get the colors right and to encounter no 
trouble with the fatliquoring the skins must be perfectly 
neutral, free from all acids and salts, before they are colored 
and greased. Borax is very useful in the washing, as it 
not only removes the acids and salts but helps to make the 
skins soft and smooth and thus to take a more even color. 

Coloring chrome tanned calf shins for glove leather. 
Chrome tanned calf-skins are generally mordanted with 
liquid extract of fustic or sumac before coloring. About 
four ounces of these extracts are required for each dozen 
small light skins. The extract is mixed with about ten 
gallons of warm water and the leather drummed in the 
solution for twenty minutes. Then two ounces of either 
tartar emetic or antimonine for each dozen skins are dis- 
solved in a little water and added to the extract liquor in 
the drum and the skins drummed for another fifteen min- 
utes, after which they are washed off in warm water and 
colored. 



320 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

A very soft and nearly white glove leather may be made by 

treating the skins to a warm bath of sumac, 
And after they come from this liquor pressing out the surplus 
sumac liquor and fatliquorizing the skins with a mixture of 
alkaline soap and oil — about ten pounds of the former and 
four gallons of the latter, boiled in fifty gallons of water. Or 
the skins may be taken from the sumac liquor and dyed any 
desired shade, the sumac serving as a mordant. The most 
common colors wanted on calfskins for glove purposes are 
yellows, tans, ox blood and olive shades. These are usually 
applied before the skins are fat-liquored, and drums are 
generally used for the dyeing, as more uniform results fol- 
low their use than any other method of coloring. Practical 
working directions for d} 7 eing many shades of glove leather 
will be found in other parts of this work. 

An excellent fat-liquor for calf-skin glove-leather is made 
of ten pounds of potash soap, four gallons of neatsfoot oil, 
six pounds of egg yolk and six pounds of degras, completely 
saponified in forty gallons of water. 

Calf-skins are oil tanned and made into exceedingly soft and 

durable leather, 
Very useful in making gloves and mittens. For any pro- 
cess of oil tanning the skins should be very thoroughly 
limed for eight or ten days in red arsenic limes. After 
washing and unhairing, the skins should be bated as low 
and soft as possible. For this purpose a manure bate may 
used. It may be used alone or in conjunction with a bran 
drench or a drench of lactic acid. Any other process of 
bating or drenching that makes the skins soft and silky 
may be used. A bran drench, also a lactic acid drench 
may be used alone. It is very essential that all lime be 
gotten rid of before the skins are treated with oil. Before 
the oil is applied, the skins should be thoroughly pressed 
and as much as possible of the surplus water removed from 
them. They may then be given a thorough beating by 



CALFSKINS FOR GLOVE AND MITTEN PURPOSES. 321 

means of an apparatus or machinery especially designed 
for the purpose, in order to soften them, after which they 
are sprinkled with cod oil and are again beaten in order to 
force the oil into the leather. 

Oils used and method of oil-tanning. 

The best grade of Newfoundland cod oil is considered the 
best for the purpose. The process of oiling and beating the 
skins is repeated two or three times, or until they have 
assumed a mustard color and have lost their original odor. 
After the oiling and beating are completed the skins are 
made to undergo a process of heating. By this process the 
oxidation of the oil, which was begun during the previous 
process, is completed by the fermentation that takes place 
in the skins. The heat is generated spontaneously and the 
skins must be closely watched, and frequently handled and 
turned over. The highest temperature allowable is 140 
degrees Fah.; a higher temperature than this seriously dam- 
ages the leather. All organic matter in the skins is de- 
stroyed. This process of heating or fermenting is a very 
delicate one, and upon its being properly done depends the 
success of the leather. 

Unless sufficient heat is generated the skins will rot, and 
when too much heat is produced, they become dissolved. 
When the fermentation ceases and the skins are no longer 
susceptible of heating, they are treated to remove excess of 
oil. This is done by washing them in hot water and then 
subjecting them to great pressure by means of a hydraulic 
press. A great deal of grease is squeezed out in this way, 
and the grease so produced is known as degras. The sur- 
plus oil may also be removed by washing the skins in a 
solution of soda ash which causes the grease to saponify. 
The saponified oil removed by pressure is neutralized with 
sulphuric acid and becomes the oil known as sod oil. A 
certain proportion of the oil must, of course, remain in the 
leather so as to give it softness. The finishing process con- 
21 



322 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

sists of drying out the skins, working them soft and remov- 
ing all unevenness and particles of flesh. 

Bleaching the skins. 
When it is desired to bleach the skins, it may be done by 
sprinkling them with water and exposing them to the sun, 
or by treatment with a weak solution of permanganate of 
potash, followed by a treatment with diluted sulphuric acid, 
or the leather may be treated with sulphurous acid in the 
form of gas. The methods followed in handling the skins 
vary. In some instances the skins are hung up in warm 
closed rooms, instead of being placed in piles to ferment. 

Yellow ochre. 

Yellow ochre has been used in the last treatment with 

oil, and gives to the leather a decided yellow color. The 

yellow color acquired by the skins, during the treatment 

with oil, is, however, the only coloring generally required. 

Other processes for soft and tough leather. 
Very soft tough leather may be made by treating calf-skins 
with a mixture composed of four pounds of alum, six 
pounds of salt, twenty pounds of wheat flour, and twelve 
pounds of egg yolk, thoroughly mingled together in twelve 
gallons of water, and used for each hundred pounds of skins 
at a temperature of 90 degrees. The skins are drummed 
in this mixture for thirty minutes to one hour, and then 
hung up and dried out. Instead of twelve pounds of egg- 
yolk, six pounds of the same and six pounds of olive oil 
may be used. After being left in the dry state for some 
months to cure, the skins may be worked out soft and fin- 
ished without further treatment, or the}' may be washed in 
warm water and tanned in a one-bath chrome process, and 
colored and finished as chrome leather. The soluble oils, 
known as Turkey-red or alizarine oils, may be used with 
good results in place of the egg-yolk. They may also be 
used on chrome tanned skins instead of emulsions of soap 
and oil. 



CALFSKINS FOE GLOVE AND MITTEN PURPOSES. 32o 

' : Other oil processes. 

Calf-skins may be oil-tanned by being passed through or 
treated in a drum with a solution of the above named oils. 
When vats or tubs are used the skins are pressed after bat- 
ing and washing, and soaked in a twenty -five per cent, solu- 
tion of the oil, warm. The oil can also be applied to the 
skins in a drum. After the treatment with oil the skins 
are dried out and placed in a heap in a moderately warm 
room and covered up. They are then hung up in the 
air and allowed to dry slowly, after which they are treated 
with the oil in the same manner as at first, being first 
washed in an alkaline solution. They are then allowed 
to heat by being placed in piles and covered up, dried again 
and then washed in a weak solution of borax or other alkali. 
By drying and working the skins are made very soft and 
completely oil tanned. 

The results may be changed by greater or less concentra- 
tion of the oil solution, by higher temperatures in drying 
and by a greater number of applications of the oil. The 
skins may also be tanned by a combination of the oil with 
the salts of alumina. The preferred method of doing this 
is to steep the prepared skins in a solution containing pre- 
ferably fifteen per cent, of the soluble oil and then drying 
them out. The operation may be repeated and then the 
usual method of tanning with alumina salts proceeded with 
in the ordinary way. Heavy calf-skins are split after lim- 
ing. The grain is tanned into shoe or fancy leather, and the 
flesher is made into glove leather. Any process that can 
be used upon grain skins can be applied to the flesher with 
equally good results. 

Yellow Calf-skin Glove Leather. 

Chrome-tanned calf-skins may be colored yellow and 
finished into glove and mitten leather by the following 
method : 

For each dozen skins of medium size four ounces of Sul- 



324 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

famine Yellow D are used. The dye is used in solution at 
a temperature of 130° F. A small quantity of carbonate of 
ammonia added to the color solution assists in getting the 
leather penetrated with the dye ; but this may be neutral- 
ized afterwards by a little acetic acid. A light yellow, of a 
greenish cast, is obtained by using five ounces of Sulfamine 
Yellow A. 

A good fat-liquor to use upon this class of leather is made 
of egg-yolk and neatsfoot or olive oil. 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

TANNING FURS AND HAIR-SKINS. 
In any process of tanning furs and hair-skins, the first 
thing to be done is a soaking and softening of the raw skins. 
When the skins are fresh or lightly salted this consumes 
but a short time, a few hours ; but when they are hard and 
dry a longer time is required. By adding either borax or 
sal-soda to the water, and by using the water warm, the 
hardest skins can be thoroughly softened and cleansed in a 
few hours. After softening, the useless parts of the skins 
should be removed, and all lumps of fat and flesh removed 
by fleshing. Then the skins are ready to be tanned. This 
may be very readily and cheaply done in a solution of salt 
and alum, although skins tanned in salt and alum gather 
moisture in damp weather and therefore have unpleasant 
features. A solution may be made of one-fourth pound of 
salt, and one-fourth pound of alum, and one-half ounce 
borax, dissolved in hot water. Sufficient meal may be 
added to make a thick paste. One way of applying this 
paste is to spread it evenly over the flesh side of the skins, 
folding them lengthwise with the fur on the outside and 
letting them lie for a few days, then to remove the paste, 
and dry out the skins and work them soft and clean. For 
heavy skins a second application of the paste may be neces- 
sary. The ingredients of the paste may be made into a 
liquor, and the skins immersed therein, light skins requir- 
ing about one day, and heavy skins longer. When they 
are removed from the liquor the skins should be hung up 
and dried, and as they dry they should be pulled and 
stretched by any suitable means until they are both dry and 
soft. Then they may be cleaned and further softened by a 

(325) 



326 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

running in dry saw-dust in a drum especially constructed 
for the purpose, and then the saw-dust may be removed 
by running the skins in an open drum, by means of which 
they are pounded and softened and the saw-dust allowed to 
fall out. On some classes of skins, such as calf-skins, sev- 
eral days are required in the tanning liquor, and the liquor 
needs to be strengthened with salt and alum, in the same 
proportions and quantities as first put in, and after the 
tanning is completed and before the skins have become 
quite dry, a coat of mineral oil may be put on the flesh 
side, and after this has dried in, the skins may be worked 
and cleaned. Such skins as raccoon, fox, dog, wolf or co} T - 
ote, and small light skins, such as mink, rabbit and mole- 
skins, do not require any oil or grease to make them soft. 
Kangaroo, wombat, deer-skins and calf-skins, however, need 
the oil in order to make them soft and pliable. 

The skins may also be tanned in the following manner ; 

Equal parts of borax, saltpetre and glauber salts (sulphate 
of soda), about one-third of an ounce for each skin, are- 
made with water into a paste, and this is spread over the- 
inside of the skins, more being applied on the thick than 
on the thin parts. The skins are folded together and left 
in a cool place for twenty-four hours, then they are scraped 
and rinsed off and the following mixture applied in the 
same manner as before : One ounce of either sal-soda or 
borax, two ounces of hard white soap, melted slowly to- 
gether without being allowed to boil. The skins are left 
with this mixture upon them for twenty-four hours. After 
this they are put into a solution composed of three ounces 
of alum, six ounces of salt, dissolved in sufficient hot water 
to cover the skins. When this liquor is cooled down to 
ninety degrees, the skins may be immersed therein for 
twelve hours, after which they are wrung out and dried. 
The skins may require to be put back in the liquor for a 
few hours longer, depending upon their condition. The 



TANNING FURS AND HAIR-SKINS. 327 

flesh side after drying may be cleaned and made smooth 
with sandpaper or pumice stone. 

The ingredients of the paste may be made into a liquor 
and used warm, and the skins left therein for twenty-four 
hours. This method of tanning makes the skins very soft, 
the hair is finely set, and has a peculiar gloss that is espec- 
ially desirable. 

This method also produces good results. 

Bran and soft water are well mixed together. The skins 
are immersed in the liquor for twenty-four hours, then they 
are removed and placed in a liquor made up of one pound 
of alum and one-half pound of salt in two gallons of hot 
water. When this is cooled down, the skins are put in and 
left therein for twenty-four hours. They may be given an 
additional liquor of oatmeal and warm water, after which 
they are wrung out and dried. This leaves the skins white 
and soft and ready for immediate' use. 

A good tanning mixture is made of salt, alum and sul- 
phuric or muriaiic acid in proportion of one pound of 
salt, two pounds of alum and one-half pint acid for about 
fifty skins, such as raccoon and wombat, or five to ten calf- 
skins. The skins are left in this liquor, being occasionally 
stirred about for two or three days, when they are removed, 
partly dried and shaved or cut down to a satisfactory thick- 
ness. Then they may be put back into a liquor prepared 
as the first for another day, then dried out, oiled and worked 
soft. A mixture of soap and oil may be used to grease the 
skins, or oil may be used alone. 

A process for hair skins and hides for robes. 
Hides for robes and all classes of hair skins may be 
nicely tanned in a liquor composed of one part alum, one 
part salt, one-quarter to one-half part japonica, gambier or 
other tanning material. These are dissolved in hot water 
in sufficient quantity to make a thirty-five degree liquor. 
Hides require to be left in this liquor from five to ten days. 



328 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Skins are finished in from two to three days. In tanning 
hides for robes or coats, shaving or dressing down is an im- 
important part of the process. Before this is done, the hides 
should be partly dried, and after shaving they should be 
put back into the tan liquor for a day or two, then hung up 
and dried out. After drying they should be moistened back 
and given a heavy coat of oil. Soap is also sometimes 
used. After drying the second time the hides or skins 
should be worked soft and run in a drum or wheel until 
thoroughly soft and clean. The composition of the tanning 
liquor may be changed considerably. The use of japonica 
makes the hides more capable of resisting water, as the alum 
and salt are readily soaked out by rain. In tanning calf-skins 
and other skins in the hair, the tan liquor acts only upon 
the flesh side, and the hair will consequently be apt to slip 
before the tan reaches the roots. All unnecessary handling 
should be avoided and the tanning done as rapidly as possible 
so as to give the hair no chance to fall out. The hair may 
be readily set by leaving the skins for a few hours in a 
strong alum and salt liquor, before they are placed in the 
other tanning material, japonica or whatever may be used. 
A mixture of hemlock and quebracho extracts may be used ; 
also palmetto extract either alone or in combination with 
other tannages. The application of oil or grease can only 
be done upon the grain side, and after the skins have 
been dried out and moistened back. Warm soapsuds are 
used, also a mixture of oil and soap, made up of ten pounds 
of potash soft soap and four gallons of cod, sod or neatsfoot 
oil, boiled together into an emulsion, after which water is 
run in to make a total of twenty-five gallons. The soften- 
ing and cleaning of the hides or skins is best done in speci- 
ally constructed drums or wheels, in which the hides or 
skins are milled in clear dry sawdust, and the sawdust then 
cleaned out of the hair in an open wheel or drum. 

Dry hides and skins may be softened in a solution of sul- 
phuric acid and water, until they are swollen and plumped. 



TANNING FURS AND HAIR-SKINS. 829 

Then the acid may be neutralized by a soda or borax bath ; 
the swelling is also reduced. The soda or borax may then 
be removed by washing in clear water. 

In using a gambier or other similar liquor in tanning 
furs and hair-skins, the skins should first be soaked soft and 
clean and then fleshed. A gambier liquor of about three 
degrees strength may be used at the start ; the skins han- 
dled every two or three hours until the strength is reduced 
to one degree. Then a six degree liquor may be used, and 
in about forty-eight hours the skins will be tanned. Heavy 
skins require more time. It is also a good plan to leave the 
skins in a strong alum and salt liquor for an hour or two 
before tanning them with gambier, as this serves to set the 
hair firmly. When the skins are fully tanned they should 
be dried out and worked soft and clean ; then a mixture of 
oil and soap may be applied, made up of one and one-fourth 
pound of castile soap, dissolved in one quart of water, and 
mixed with one pint of paraffine oil. Other oils may be 
used alone and the soap omitted, very little oil being re- 
quired to make the skins soft. 

THE TANNING OF HIDES FOR ROBES, COATS, ETC. 

Hides intended to be tanned with the hair upon them, 
and used in the manufacture of coats and robes, should be 
soaked in fresh water before they are tanned, in order to 
rid them of dirt, blood and other undesirable substances 
adhering to them. They should be soaked long enough to 
become thoroughly softened, the length of time varying 
from twelve to twenty-four hours. Dry hides are much 
more difficult to soften than salted ones. Borax is use- 
ful in softening dry hides,- also a strong solution of salt and 
water. When borax is used, from five to six pounds are 
dissolved in hot water and poured into the water to be 
used for soaking and vigorously stirred throughout the 
same, the quantity of borax mentioned being enough for 
one thousand gallons of water. The effectiveness of the 



330 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

borax soak is increased when the temperature of the same 
is raised with steam to about ninety degrees Fah. The 
hides may be left in the soak for twelve hours and should 
then be worked upon the beam or milled in a drum in a 
solution of borax and water, or they may be softened in a 
hide mill. After the milling, the hides require further 
soaking in the vats according to their condition. When a 
salt solution is used, it should be made up in a vat and 
sufficient salt should be used to make the liquor decidedly 
salty. The hides may be left in the brine for from twelve 
to twenty-four hours, then milled in a pin-mill drum in a 
salt solution for thirty minutes, and then put back into the 
brine for another twelve or twenty-four hours. This 
method of softening is very satisfactory. After the soaking 
is completed, the hides should be fleshed and all flesh and 
lumps of fat removed from them before they are tanned. 

Sometimes hides are received by tanners in a partially 
tanned condition, that is, some one has attempted to tan 
the hides without sufficient knowledge or without the facil- 
ities necessary to do the work. In order to soften and 
cleanse such hides so that they can be readily tanned and 
finished, they should be placed in a pin-mill drum with 
either a borax solution or a solution of salt and water and 
milled in the same until sufficiently softened. The hides 
must be watched, however, to see that the hair does not be- 
come loosened by the violent treatment in the mill. There 
are various ways of tanning hides with the hair on. A 
very common method is by the use of alum and salt. 
This is really more of a curing than a tanning process. 
While the hides can be made very soft and strong by the 
use of alum and salt, they have one very objectionable 
feature. They gather moisture and become heavy and 
damp in moist weather. 

Alum and salt process. 
In applying the alum and salt process, the hides are 



TANNING FURS AND HAIR-SKINS. 331 

taken after being fleshed, and are immersed in a fairly 
strong solution of alum and salt, care being taken to expose 
all parts of the flesh side to the liquor so that the hair roots 
may become firmly fixed and hair slipping avoided. The 
hides should be given plenty of room in the liquor, so that 
they can be handled about, once in a while and their posi- 
tions changed. It is good practice to hang the hides upon 
sticks and suspend them in the liquor. The strength of 
the alum and salt solution is a matter of judgment. The 
stronger it is, the more readily it will penetrate into the 
hides and the less will be the time consumed b} r the pro- 
cess. Perhaps as good a rule to follow as any is to use 
twice as much salt as alum. Hides may be well struck 
through with a liquor made up of six pounds of alum and 
twelve pounds of salt for each one hundred pounds of hides 
to be tanned. The hides should be left in the liquor until 
they have become permeated with it, the length of time 
required to accomplish this depending upon the thickness 
of the hides and the strength of alum and salt liquor, after 
which they should be soaked for ten minutes in clean cold 
water, drained and hung up to dry. When they have be- 
come about two-thirds diy they should be laid in piles for 
a few days to become uniformly soft and moist, before they 
are dressed down to the desired substance. While they are 
lying in piles they must be watched and occasionally 
handled, especially in warm weather, to prevent heating, 
which always causes more or less damage, according to the 
degree of heat developed. 

The dressing or cutting down to a light substance is gen- 
erally done by hand. This work requires considerable skill 
and judgment in order that the hide may be smooth and 
of even thickness and free from holes. After the hides 
have been cut or dressed down, it is necessary to retan 
them. This may be done in various ways. The hides may 
be placed back in the alum and salt solution ; they may be 
retanned with alum and salt in a pin-mill drum ; sulphate 



532 



PRACTICAL TANNING. 



of alumina and salt, followed by a treatment with hyposul- 
phite of soda, may be used ; and the retanning may also be 
done in pin-mill drums with a solution of gambier and salt, 
or a combination of quebracho and hemlock liquors. Que- 
bracho extract being a good tanner and making soft stock, 
may be used alone. 

A good method of retanning the hides 
Is to place them in a pin-mill drum with a solution of sul- 
phate of alumina and salt, made up in the proportions of four 
pounds of the alumina and eight pounds of salt, dissolved, 
and mixed into twenty gallons of water for every one hun- 
dred pounds of hides. In this solution the hides may be 
drummed from thirty minutes to one hour. Then for every 
one hundred pounds of stock in the drum ten pounds of hypo- 
sulphite of soda may be dissolved in five gallons of warm 
water and added to the contents of the drum. A further 
drumming for thirty minutes completes the process, and 
secures a permanent fixation of the tanning materials upon 
the fibres of the hides. Taken from the drum the hides 
should be dipped singly into cold water to remove surplus 
tanning materials, drained, hung up and dried. When they 
are nearly dry and yet retaining some moisture, they should 
be stuffed with oil or grease and then dried thoroughly, 
after which they require thorough working to regain their 
softness lost during drying, and also a thorough cleaning in 
dry sawdust. By a retannage of gambier and salt, the un- 
pleasant features of alum-tanned stock are prevented, and 
the hides made permanently soft and strong. The gambier 
and salt liquor may be applied to the hides either in drums 
or in vats, the process being carried along until the liquor 
has thoroughly permeated the hides, then they may be left 
in piles for forty-eight hours, drained well and hung up to 
dry. 

A combination liquor of quebracho and hemlock extract 
Produces good results. About two-thirds of the liquor 



TANNING FURS AND HAIR-SKINS. 333 

should be quebracho and one-third should be hemlock ; one 
supplements the other. A weak solution of quebracho 
extract may be used alone. These vegetable tanning 
materials may be used in drums or vats. 

Softening the stock. 

For the purpose of imparting softness to the stock oils of 
various descriptions may be used, also combinations of 
tallow, soap and oil. Fish oils are very satisfactory, but 
somewhat too expensive. Mineral oils of good quality pro- 
duce good results. A heavy coat of the oil should be 
given to the hides upon the flesh side. Any excess of 
water should be guarded against in the hides, as this pre- 
vents the proper absorption of the oil. The oil should be 
allowed to penetrate into the hides by slow drying after 
which the stock should be left in the dry condition for some 
time before it is finished. The longer the hides are kept 
in the dry condition, the softer they will be when they are 
finally finished. 

The softening and cleaning of the hides is best accomp- 
lished in revolving mills or drums especially constructed 
for the purpose. The oil, grease and dirt are taken up by 
dry sawdust in a closed drum, and in an open drum the 
sawdust carrying the oil and grease with it, is cleaned out 
of the stock. The cleaning process needs to be repeated two 
or three times to get the stock perfectly clean and soft. 

Calf-skins and other hair skins may be tanned in the 
manners suggested for heavy hides. In the case of alum- 
tanned stock, some yellow ochre may be added to the saw- 
dust and gives to the flesh side a desirable yellow color. 

Dyeing with Ursol dyes. 
Hair skins and hides, after cleaning and softening, may 
be readily colored by the use of the dyes known as Ursol 
colors, made in Germany. Ursol D, used with bichromate 
of potash as a mordant, produces black. The dyeing is 
best done by brushing the dye solution into the hair until 



334 PRACTICAL TANNING. ■ 

it becomes saturated with the liquor. When dried out, 
the color of the hair will be black through and through. 
Sometimes more than one application of the dye is required 
to get the right shade. Ursol dyes are not difficult to use. 
Any tanner, by close attention and study, can soon learn to 
get just the results he desires with them. The hair must 
be free from grease, clean and dry, and by a process of 
"killing," prepared to receive the dye. To accomplish 
these results, a compound of sal-ammoniac, sulphate of 
alumina and lime may be used, the lime being the milk of 
lime, obtained by slaking common white lime with hot 
water. The solution prepared of these ingredients is ap- 
plied to the hair with brushes, after which the hide or skin 
is dried in a cool, shady place ; and then cleaned by 
thorough dusting and beating and is then ready for the 
color solution. Ursol dyes are used in different ways and 
in varying combinations. In some cases no mordanting of 
the hair is necessary, in others a solution of bichromate of 
potash and cream of tartar is used, not only to serve as a 
mordant for the dye, but to reduce the quantity of coloring 
material required. Sulphate of iron and sulphate of cop- 
per may also be used as mordants. The skins ma} 7 be im- 
mersed in the mordanting liquor, and left therein from six- 
•to twelve hours, then washed off and dyed. 

Ursol D, for black dyeing, is used in combination with 
peroxide of hydrogen, and water. The dye liquor can be 
used very liberally upon the hair side only, and should be 
well brushed into the hair so as to dye the entire hair. The 
hair can also be merely tipped with the dye liquor, when 
tip dyeing is considered all that is necessary. 

The proportions of the mordanting materials may be : 
One ounce of bichromate of potash, one-half ounce cream 
of tartar in twelve quarts of water. Of the dye liquor — 
one ounce Ursol D, three pints of peroxide of hydrogen, and 
twelve quarts of water. After the dyeing materials become 
dry the hides and skins should be thoroughly washed, 
dried and cleaned. 



CHAPTER XIX. 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 



The skin of the kangaroo is characterized by great sup- 
pleness, toughness of fibre, and by a grain several times 
thicker than the grain of any other kind of skin. The 
grain, after tanning, is also very compact, and resists the 
penetration of water and moisture. On account of these 
peculiarities kangaroo leather is splendid shoe material, 
standing in a class by itself, and especially adapted for shoes 
for tender feet. At the present time kangaroo leather is 
made by chrome, gambier and similar tannages, and by 
combinations of chrome and vegetable processes ; and is 
finished in a number of ways, dull, bright glazed, half 
bright, patent and enamelled. 

The skins are received by the tanner in dry condition, 
having been dried as soon as taken from the animal, to 
prevent spoiling. They are very hard and dry and almost 
waterproof, resisting the penetration of water to an unusual 
degree. Clear water softens the skins very slowly. It is 
therefore good practice to hasten the soaking and softening 
by the addition of solutions of chemicals to the water, be- 
fore the skins are put in. Borax and sulphide of sodium 
have proved very satisfactory for this purpose. When borax 
is used, five pounds are enough for one thousand gallons of 
water, dissolved in a pail and poured into the soak vat and 
vigorously stirred. Borax thoroughly softens the water, 
and helps in giving the skins a soft, silky grain. 

Softening the skins. 

When sulphide of sodium is used one or two pounds 
may be added to everyone hundred gallons of water. Soak 

( 335 ) 



336 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

water prepared with sulphide of sodium readily softens the 
hardest skins and brings them back to the natural soft con- 
dition in a short time, also freshening up the dried and 
withered grain. 

The skins may also be softened in a strong brine or solu- 
tion of salt and water. This readily penetrates the skins 
and opens them out. The salt water should be removed by 
washing in clean water, before the skins are further treated. 

When any of these articles are used to assist in the soft- 
ening it is seldom necessary to mill the skins in the hide- 
mill. If the skins soften slowly they may be taken out of 
the water at the end of say twenty-four hours and worked 
in the mill, or drummed in pin-mill drums for a few min- 
utes and then put back in the vat until they are thoroughly 
soft and supple. It is not best to use foul soaks, that is 
soaks in which previous packs of skins have been soaked. 
Dried skins become soft in such soaks in a very short time, 
but often at the expense of some important quality of the 
leather, that does not show until after the skins are tanned 
and perhaps not until they are finished, and then no one 
can tell what was the cause. 

Depilating. 

After soaking, the skins should be drained, and then 
fleshed and lumps of fat and flesh removed from them. 
Then they are ready for the process of depilating. This 
may be carried out in a number of w T ays. If it is not de- 
sired to save the hair, a vat may be filled with water, and 
for every one hundred gallons of water in the vat from ten 
to fifteen pounds of sulphide of sodium and a few pailfuls 
of lime added. The sulphide of sodium should be thor- 
oughly dissolved, and the liquor well stirred, then the skins 
put in. In from twenty-four to forty-eight hours the hair 
will become dissolved sufficiently to allow it to be readily 
washed off. After this the skins may be very lightly limed 
for a few days. When this method of unhairing is used, 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 



337 



the skins need not be soft before they are put in the liquor, 
but may be left in until they are soft and plump. The 
skins should not be allowed to dry out nor harden, and 
must be entirely soft and plump before they are placed in 
the lime. Very little lime is needed. About two buckets 
of lime are slacked in one-third of a barrel of water. This 
is put into sufficient water and will answer for three hun- 
dred skins. The skins should be left in this lime for one 
day, then taken out and the liquor strengthened up with 
the same quantity of lime that was put in at the first. Be- 
fore the skins are put back the lime should be thoroughly 
stirred up from the bottom of the vat. On the third day 
the skins should be again pulled out, the lime strengthened, 
and the skins put back. Or the skins may be reeled from 
one lime to another each day ; the first lime being rather 
weak, and the second, third and fourth limes of gradually 
increasing strength. Four to five days in the liming pro- 
cess is generally enough for ordinary skins. Very heavy 
skins may be limed for six or eight days. After a pack of 
skins is limed, the liquor may be used for another lot of 
skins by running out about one-half of the liquor and 
replacing it with water, and the work proceeded with as 
before. 

Kangaroo skins limed in arsenic limes. 

Kangaroo skins are also very satisfactorily prepared 
for tanning by the use of limes to which red arsenic has 
been added. The skins, owing to their tough and com- 
pact grain, are not readily injured by strong liquors, and 
the process can be completed in a few days. The use of red 
arsenic in connection with lime makes the grain fine and 
soft, and shortens the time of liming. The arsenic limes 
maybe used over and over as long as they are clean. When 
old lime liquor is to be had, a good first lime may be pre- 
pared by using two-thirds old liquor in the vat, and one- 
third new and fresh. In making the new liquor about one- 
22 



338 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

eighth of the weight of the skins, of lime may be used, and 
about two per cent, of the weight of the skins, of red arsenic 
— that is, for one hundred pounds of dry skins, a little more 
than twelve pounds of lime may be used, and two pounds 
of red arsenic, thoroughly slacked together with hot water. 

A good strength of lime liquor to commence the process 
with is about three degrees, Twaddle, and by the addition 
of lime and arsenic the strength may be raised towards the 
end of the process to six or seven degrees. No hard or 
fixed rule can be followed. The tanner must determine by 
close observation just how much lime to use, and how long 
to leave the skins in the lime. 

For the chrome tannage, a short quick liming produces 
the best results, as the skins are kept full and plump, and 
not allowed to lose any of their substance. After the hair 
becomes loosened it is well to leave the skins a day or two 
longer in the limes, as this enables the hair to come off 
more readily and cleanly, and makes softer leather. 

When paddle-vats are used it is not necessary to pull the 
skins out each day, although it is a good plan to stir the 
lime up occasionally. Sulphide of sodium is used with 
lime in much the same manner that red arsenic is used. 
These chemicals shorten the time of liming ; keep the grain 
from becoming rough ; make it close and firm ; toughen 
the leather, and by making the lime more soluble make it 
easier for the tanner to remove it before tanning the skins. 

Bating. 

The skins are next unhaired and fleshed. Then they are 
washed and bated or drenched. Bating with manures, 
which is so risky and uncertain, is being gradually super- 
seeded by other methods that remove the lime from the 
skins and prepare them for tanning without the unpleasant 
features of the older method. To keep the skins full and 
plump and without any loss of substance or strength results 
in full, plump and tough leather. Various methods of bat- 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 339 

iug and drenching have been described in the chapters on 
goat and sheepskins. Kangaroo skins may be treated with 
any of the described methods, so it is not necessary to re- 
peat the descriptions here. Manures may be used alone, or 
in connection with lactic acid (see Goatskins) ; bran may be 
used, also lactic acid, the latter material being the cleanest 
and most satisfactory article a tanner can use. In order to 
get good and rapid tannage, and bright grain on the leather, 
it is necessary to have the skins perfectly free from lime and 
dirt. Very good leather is made from kangaroo skins by 
the use of the gambier tannage. This may be used alone 
or in conjunction with alum and salt, making a dongola 
process. Palmetto extract is a new tanning material. It 
is a perfect substitute for gambier and costs less. It makes 
soft tough leather in a short time, being a more rapid tan- 
ner than gambier. It may be used alone, with good results, 
or used in connection with a chrome process. 

Gambier process. 

When gambier is used alone, some salt is added to the 
liquor ; and the skins are started in a weak liquor, which 
is gradually strengthened by the addition of fresh gambier 
until the skins are tanned through. The use of the paddles 
causes the skins to be turned over in the liquor, and by 
changing their position insures uniform tanning. The use 
of salt keeps the liquors sweet and hastens the tanning. 
After the tanning in gambier is completed the leather may 
be strengthened and cleared by being drummed in a solu- 
tion of alum and salt. This liquor may be composed of 
seven pounds of alum and five pounds of salt tor every two 
hundred medium size skins. A drumming in this solution 
for thirty minutes will accomplish the desired result. The 
leather should then be washed, pressed and left in piles for 
forty-eight hours, then fat-liquored and dried out. When 
palmetto extract is used, the skins are taken after bating 
and washing and are put into a cold palmetto liquor of 



340 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

about eight degrees Barkometer strength, and reeled therein 
for one-half hour. Then they are tanned in a drum with 
palmetto extract made up in a liquor of 30° Beaume, or 51 
Twaddle, at a temperature of 75° Fah. For three hundred 
and fifty pounds of skins, weighed as they come from the 
beam-house, two hundred and twenty-five pounds extract 
may be used in the wheel. A drumming of four to six hours 
ordinarily completes the tanning. Heavy skins may require 
to be shaved and then retanned, which can be done by drum- 
ming them for one hour in a liquor of 30° Beaume, 51 
Twaddle. 

After the tanning or the retanning is completed, the 
leather should be washed in lukewarm water. The water 
in which the leather is washed may be used for coloring a 
fresh lot of skins as they come from the bean-house. After 
being washed, the leather should be pressed and then fat- 
liquored. A suitable drum is heated to a temperature of 
140° F. and two hundred and twenty pounds of pressed 
leather are put into the drum. A fat-liquor for this quantity 
of leather may be made of two and one-half pounds of soap, 
and one-half gallon of degras, thoroughly boiled together 
and used at a temperature of 120° F. The leather should 
be drummed in the fat-liquor for one-half hour, then it 
should be washed off, struck out, and hung up and dried 
out. After drying it may be finished in any desired manner. 

Combination process. 
Combination-tanned leather may be made with palmetto 
extract combined with a chrome process. Skins that have 
been tanned with a two-bath chrome may be lightly re- 
tanned with palmetto. When a one-bath chrome process 
is used, the skins may be well struck with the chrome liquor 
and then finished up in palmetto, or the process may be 
reversed, the skins being first tanned in palmetto liquor, 
made up of three gallons of the extract, and one pint of 
glycerine in one barrel of water, at a temperature of 75° F. 
and afterwards in the chrome liquor. 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 



341 



Straight palmetto tanned leather, also combination tanned 
stock, can be readily colored any shade or dyed black. 

The tanner of kangaroo skins will find in the chapter 
on calf-skin tanning some interesting information regarding 
various methods of tanning that are well adapted to kan- 
garoo leather. 

Kangaroo leather of remarkably fine texture, 

Full plump body and smooth fine grain, may be made by 
tanning the skins in a combination of alum and chrome 
processes. To get the best results from this method of tan- 
ning, the skins should be thoroughly and well limed, and 
then bated and drenched until they are perfectly neutral 
and clean, so as to get the necessary softness and pliability. 
No pickling is necessary, the skins being treated directly 
with the alum process. A solution is made consisting of 
nine pounds of alum, four or five pounds of common salt, 
and thirty pounds of wheat flour, dissolved in hot water, 
and then mixed into about twelve gallons of water, luke- 
warm. To the liquor thus prepared about twelve pounds 
of egg-yolk are added, and the whole vigorously stirred for 
a few minutes. The washed and cleaned skins are put into 
a suitable drum, with the tanning combination at a tem- 
perature of about ninety degrees, the drum set in motion, 
the skins drummed for at least one hour for light and me- 
dium skins, and two hours for heavy skins. At the end of 
this time the skins should have absorbed all the tanning in- 
ingredients. They may then be removed from the drum, 
hung up and dried out. After becoming dry they should 
lie for some time before the remaining operations are car- 
ried out. These operations consist of moistening back the 
dry skins, until they are uniformly soft and moist, which 
-can readily be done by drumming them in a very little 
warm water. Then they are tanned with a one-bath 
chrome liquor, and rendered insoluble and possessing all 
the good qualities of chrome leather. About two and 



342 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

one-half gallons of concentrated liquor are sufficient for 
one hundred pounds of leather, and a drumming for three 
hours completes the tanning. This, of course, is followed 
by washing, striking out or pressing and shaving, after 
which the leather may be colored. 

One-bath chrome process. 

Good plump leather is made by tanning the skins in a 
one-bath chrome process, carried out as follows : For every 
one hundred pounds of skins weighed as they come from 
the wash-wheels, three pounds of sulphate of alumina, and 
six pounds of salt, are dissolved in ten gallons of warm 
water and the skins drummed in this liquor for at least 
thirty minutes. Then the concentrated chrome liquor is 
added to the skins, in quantity about three gallons for every 
one hundred pounds of skins in the drum, and the stock 
drummed therein for at least three hours, at the end of 
which time the skins will be found to be leathered and may 
then be removed, and after draining for some hours, or over 
night, may be washed in warm borax water for twenty min- 
utes, and in clean water for at least fifteen minutes longer. 

When a paddle vat is used for the process the skins may 
be pickled in alum and salt as above described, or they may 
be entered at once into the tanning bath. The liquor is 
somewhat weak at the start and is gradually strengthened 
as the skins absorb the tanning material from the solution. 
The paddle method consumes from two to three days ac- 
cording to the strength of the liquor and the thickness of 
the skins. Enough tanning material should be used to en- 
able the skins to grow into plump and lively leather, and 
sufficient salt used to prevent the drawing or contraction of 
the fibres. 

Other one-hath processes. 

There are other methods of tanning the skins in one- 
bath processes, the following being a very good one. After 
drenching the skins are pickled in sulphuric acid, salt and 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 343 

water : Fifty pounds of salt and two and one-half quarts 
of acid are used for each one hundred and fifty skins. 
The skins are stirred about in this liquor for about six 
hours, and are then allowed to drain well before they are 
tanned. When they are to be tanned they are weighed 
and for each one hundred pounds of skins ten pounds of 
salt are dissolved in five gallons of water and the skins 
drummed in this salt solution for ten minutes. Then a 
solution that has been previously prepared is poured into 
the drum and the skins drummed for three quarters of an 
hour. This solution is composed of three pounds of sul- 
phate of alumina dissolved by boiling in five gallons of 
water, and three pounds of sal-soda dissolved by boiling in 
five gallons of water. Then the soda solution is slowly 
poured into the alumina and the combined milky liquor 
that results is used as above suggested. At the end of three 
quarters of an hour one gallon of tanning liquor is added 
to the contents of the drum for every one hundred pounds 
of skins and the stock drummed one-half hour, then another 
gallon of tanning liquor is added, and the drumming con- 
tinued for one hour ; then another gallon of liquor is given 
the skins and the drumming continued for another hour. 
At the end of this time the stock will be struck through. 
Then for every hundred weight of stock one pound of salts 
of tartar is dissolved in a little water, and this is poured 
into the drum and the drnm run for another one-half hour. 
This should complete the tanning. Skins tanned in this 
way require a very thorough washing before they are col- 
ored, dried out or finished. 

When the two-bath process is used about five pounds of 
bi-chromate of potash and two and one-half pounds of mu- 
riatic acid, in about twelve gallons of water for each one 
hundred pounds of skins, constitute the first bath. In this 
liquor the skins are milled in the drum until the yellow 
liquor has penetrated the thickest skin. Chromic acid may 
be used in quantity about five pounds for every hundred 



344 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

pounds of skins, without the muriatic acid. Some salt 
should be added to the chrome liquor. It seems not. only 
to plump the skins somehow, but to make the leather softer. 
The drumming of the first bath must be continued until the 
thickest skins are impregnated with the liquor, the time 
being determined by the thickness. 

Carelessness in this respect results in poor leather. When 
the process is completed the skins are taken out of the drum 
and struck out or pressed, and the surplus liquor removed 
from them. They should then be left in piles for a number 
of hours before they are placed in the second bath. For 
the second bath a paddle vat should be used. Sufficient 
water to cover the skins is run in, and for every one hun- 
dred pounds of skins, fifteen pounds of hypo-sulphite of 
soda are dissolved and poured into the vat. To this are added 
three pounds of muriatic acid. The addition of the last 
article causes sulphurous acid to be evolved, which is the 
active agent of the bath. The pressed skins from the first 
bath may be dipped singly into a weak hyposulphite of soda 
and muriatic liquor before they are put into the main 
liquor. By means of this a slight surface reduction is ac- 
complished. By the action of the paddles the liquor is 
constantly stirred, and the skins kept in motion. As soon 
as the yellow liquor has entirely disappeared, and the skins 
have assumed a uniform greenish blue color through the 
thickest parts, the skins may be removed from the liquor. 
This completes the tanning, unless it is desired to give the 
leather a gambier or similar bath, in which case the skins 
may be washed and given the vegetable tannage. The use 
of a vegetable tannage in connection with chrome, causes 
the leather to be more porous and open grained than would 
otherwise be the case. 

Blacking chrome-tanned kangaroo leather. 

When the grain side of chrome-tanned kangaroo leather 
is blacked, it is customary to first color the flesh side blue 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 



545 



or purple, thus improving the appearance of the leather as 
well as serving as a base or foundation for the black on the 
grain. After washing, striking out or pressing and shaving 
the skins are put into a drum with a solution of logwood, 
blue nigrosine and sal-soda, or the blue nigrosine is used 
alone as may be preferred. Purple anilines are also used, 
but are somewhat costly and do not produce as clean color 
as the nigrosine or logwood. Hemolin is a form of logwood 
possessing superior qualities. To obtain the blue flesh and 
black grain, five pounds of Hemolin with a small quantity 
of borax or sal-soda are boiled for a few minutes in fifty gal- 
lons of water. The skins are run in this liquor in the 
drum until the color is well taken up and are then spread on 
a table and a striker applied to the grain ; the result being 
blue flesh and black grain. Blue nigrosine is used as fol- 
lows : The water should be heated to a temperature of one 
hundred and twenty degrees. For each dozen skins of me- 
dium size, three ounces of nigrosine are dissolved in three 
gallons of the hot water, and the skins drummed in the 
solution for twenty minutes. The water is then drained 
off, the leather struck out or pressed and is then ready for 
fat-liquoring and grain blacking. 

A good striker. 

A good striker to develop the black on the grain is made 
of four and one-half pounds of copperas, and one and one- 
half pounds of blue vitriol dissolved by boiling in a half 
barrel of water. Then are added one and one-half pounds 
of nut-galls, and one pound epsom salts. The leather may 
be grain blacked in drums, on a machine or by hand on 
tables, or by the use of trays or dye-boxes. It is generally * 
the custom to dye the grain black after the leather has been 
fat-liquored, and the method of dyeing in boxes is the pre- 
ferred one. 

Owing to the great suppleness of kangaroo skins, they do 
not require so much grease as some classes of skins, to im- 



346 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

part to them the desired softness and strength. It is poor- 
economy to use a cheap grade of oil, as often leather treated 
with such oil has a disagreeable odor. Only the best highest 
refined and lowest test oil should be used, the extra cost 
over poor oil being made up by the finer feel which the 
good oil imparts to the leather. A good fat-liquor for kan- 
garoo leather is prepared in the following manner : Ten 
pounds of potash soap are boiled with steam in ten gallons 
of water until all is dissolved. Then four gallons of neats- 
foot oil are cut with a few ounces of dissolved borax or sal- 
soda, and poured into the soap solution, and the mixture 
stirred very thoroughly. Then enough water is run into 
the barrel to make forty gallons of fat-liquor, after which 
are added ten pounds of egg-yolk and one pound of salt. 
For heavy skins five pounds of French degras are added, and 
egg-yolk omitted or reduced in quantity. This fat-liquor 
may be used at temperatures varying from one hundred 
and twenty to one hundred and forty degrees. The quantity 
required by a lot of leather depends upon the degree of 
softness desired, and must be decided by the operator. Two 
gallons and more are usually required by a dozen skins. 

If the leather is not to be grain blacked in drums, but by 
hand or in dye boxes it need not be done until after fat- 
liquoring. Then, after dyeing, the skins are washed off 
with warm water and struck out on the grain and a light 
coat of glycerine applied with a sponge evenly over the 
grain. After this the skins may be laid in piles for one or 
two hours and then again struck out, and all wrinkles re- 
moved, and the grain lightly oiled. Then the skins are 
dried out either by being hung up in a warm room, or they 
are tacked on boards or stretched in frames, then moistened, 
staked, dried again, and if they require it, staked again. 
Then they are ready for the final finishing. For a glazed 
finish the grain may be cleared of grease by an application 
of a dilute solution of lactic acid, well rubbed in and dried. 
This is followed by a seasoning fluid, which requires to be 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 347 

well rubbed into the grain, dried in a warm room, and the 
leather glazed. The smaller the quantity of seasoning 
liquor used to get a clear bright finish the better the finish 
will be, as it will stand handling and wetting better. Two 
and even three coats of seasoning are usually required. For 
a dull finish the leather is dressed with a dull seasoning, 
dried, and before it is entirely dry it is rolled or ironed, and 
the process is completed. 

For the preparation of chrome-tanned kangaroo leather, 
to receive any shade of color or black a preliminary prepa- 
ration with tanning extracts is an advantage, and for fancy 
shades is the most practical method of mordanting the 
skins so that they will take any dye. Sumac is used alone, 
also in combination with gambier. 

Sumac treatment. 

A most satisfactory method of treating the chrome-tanned 
skin for black, is to treat the skins in a bath of sumac, car- 
ried out in the followiug manner : For one hundred pounds 
of leather, weighed after shaving, a solution of sumac is 
prepared — four pounds of extract of sumac and three gal- 
lons of warm water, thoroughly mixed together and then 
mixed into thirty gallons of water, of about one hundred 
degrees Fah. The skins are drummed in this solution for 
thirty minutes, and are then rinsed off and stained upon 
the flesh, with a blue or purple dye. Instead of sumac ex- 
tract, a fresh infusion of sumac leaves may be used ; and 
the sumac may be replaced with gambier, about two-thirds 
of the liquor being made of gambier and the other one- 
third of sumac. 

Palmetto treatment. 

Also, in place of either sumac or gambier, a liquor 
of palmetto extract serves as an excellent preparation for 
either black or colors. After the skins have been prepared 
with any of the named articles, a very desirable blue flesh 
is obtained by the use of a methyl violet aniline, about 



348 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

three ounces per dozen skins producing good results. Blue 
nigrosine may also be used upon skins so prepared in 
quantity, about three ounces for each dozen skins, dissolved 
in five gallons of hot water. Logwood and borax also pro- 
duce a very pretty flesh color — one pound of logwood in 
powder form and a few ounces of borax being required for 
one hundred pounds of skins. Leather treated in any of 
these ways, and subsequently blacked upon the grain, dries 
out and finishes up a perfect black ; the grain is made more 
durable and of finer texture. 

Treatment of Gambler, Palmetto, and combination tanned kan- 
garoo leather after tanning. 

As soon as the tanning, and in the case of very heavy 
skins the retanning is completed, the skins are removed 
from the tanning liquor, and pressed to remove the surplus 
liquor, and then left in piles for a number of hours. Very 
good results follow the application of fat-liquors, .used in these 
classes of leather in the same manner as upon chrome 
leather. A suitable pin-mill drum should be heated to a 
temperature of one hundred degrees, and one gallon of oil 
used for each one hundred and fifty pounds of leather, 
weighed after being drained and pressed. The skins are 
run in the oil until the oil is all absorbed, then they are 
taken from the drum and hung up and dried. After dry- 
ing, the leather should be weighed and then dampened in 
a tub and piled up for a number of hours to soften. This 
moistening and softening must be uniform. The drum is 
again heated to one hundred and twenty degrees, and the 
leather put in with just enough water to soften all parts 
alike. The moisture must be uniformly distributed, and 
the leather fulled. The fat-liquor will then be evenly and 
rapidly absorbed. All excess of moisture must be guarded 
against, and any surplus water drained off. The fat-liquor 
should be added to the leather through the gudgeon while 
the drum is in motion. The temperature should not exceed 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 349 

one hundred and twenty-five degrees. The quantity of fat- 
liquor required by a lot of leather depends to some extent 
upon the tannage and upon the degree of softness de- 
sired. Some tannages require more grease than others. 
The leather should be drummed in the fat-liquor until all 
the grease is taken up, then it should be hung up and 
dried out again. A very good fat-liquor is made as follows : 
About twenty-five gallons of water are put into a barrel. 
To this are added twenty-five pounds of soap, the whole 
boiled until thoroughly dissolved. Then about fifty pounds 
of English sod oil and one and one-half gallons of neats- 
foot oil are poured in and the mixture thoroughly stirred 
until the ingredients are well mixed together. Enough 
water is next added to make fifty gallons of fat-liquor. 
After the process of fat-liquoring is completed the leather 
should be taken from the drum and washed in warm water 
to free it from particles of leather fibre, etc., and then hung 
over horses for a few hours in order to allow the fatty mat- 
ter to assimilate with the fibres of the leather while it is 
warm and before it is dried out. The leather is next dried 
out again. 

When the leather is to be colored yellow on the flesh side 
it is taken, after fat-liquoring and drying out, and thor- 
oughly moistened in a tub of warm water and left in piles 
for twenty-four hours to soften. A solution is then pre- 
pared, of sumac, of which one-half pail is scalded for two 
hours in a closed vessel. To this are added four pails of 
water, and one gallon of Lactracine. This quantity of pre- 
pared liquor is sufficient for from one hundred to one hun- 
dred and thirty kangaroo skins according to their size. The 
temperature should be one hundred degrees Fah., and the 
stock drummed in the liquor for twenty-five minutes. Then 
the skins should be thrown back upon the sides of the 
drum and the yellow color liquor prepared and added. This 
may consist of one pound of Yellow S dissolved in one-half 
barrel of water. After the leather has been drummed the 



350 PRACTICAL TANNING 

required length of time three pailfuls of this color are 
added for each one hundred pounds of stock weighed in 
the dry condition. A drumming for ten minutes is suffi- 
cient to allow the leather to absorb the dye. Then the 
stock is rinsed off, dyed black on the grain with Hemolin 
or some other form of logwood and black striker, set well 
out on the grain, and oiled lightly, dried out, staked and 
finished in the usual way. 

When a blue or purple back is wanted on the leather, 
the skins are dried out after fat-liquoring, moistened and 
softened as above suggested and colored with a solution of 
logwood and sal-soda. Blue nigrosine may also be used in 
the same manner as described for chrome tanned skins ; and 
after the flesh is colored blue the grain is blacked with log- 
wood and iron striker. 

After the leather is dried out, it is dampened, staked, 
seasoned and finished in either dull, half-bright or bright 
glazed as may be wanted. A good seasoning for this class 
of stock that produces a very bright finish is composed of 
blue stone, iron, logwood, ammonia, blood and nigrosine, in 
the following proportions : Blue stone, one-half pint ; iron, 
one-eighth ounce ; logwood, one-half pint ; blood, one pint ; 
migrosine, one-half pint. This seasoning is applied evenly 
to the grain of the leather and well rubbed in, then the 
leather is dried in a warm room, and glazed, after which it 
is staked on the machine, and again seasoned and glazed. 
Two or three applications of the seasoning liquor, followed 
each time by glazing, are generally required before a good 
clear and bright finish is obtained. 

For dull finish the leather is seasoned with a dull dress- 
ing and while it is moist, it is ironed either by hand or on 
a machine. For fancy shades of leather, the stock after 
being drummed in the sumac liquor, as described for yel- 
low back, may be treated with solutions of aniline dyes and 
any desired shade obtained. To overcome any uncom- 
bined tannin upon the grain caused by the sumac, a solu- 



KANGAROO LEATHER. 351 

tion of tartar emetic or of antimonine may be added to 
the sumac bath, and the result will be full even colors free 
from spots and streaks. About two ounces of either of the 
two articles are required by each dozen skins and the drum- 
ming continued for fifteen minutes after the solution is 
added to the drum. The leather may also be first milled 
in a solution of lactic acid made up of one gallon lactic 
acid to fifty gallons of warm water. This liquor seems to 
•open up the grain and to remove all greasy matter. 

A great deal of the success attained in coloring the 
tanned leather is determined by and depends upon the 
methods and materials used in the early preparatory pro- 
cesses of beam-house and tannery. Many of the dyers' 
troubles, such as unevenness of shade, streaks and imper- 
fect penetration of the color solution are caused by careless 
or improper methods followed in preparing the leather for 
the process of coloring. In order to get light shades of 
•color it is essential that the leather be light colored. When 
it is dark from the tannage it requires a bleaching and 
■cleaning. Sometimes the appearance of the grain may be 
improved by a priming in picric acid. Sumac, as it con- 
tains very little coloring matter, is commonly used as a 
mordant upon chrome leather, and for the purpose of fresh- 
ening up vegetable tanned leather before it is colored. 
Many of the tannages contain quantities of coloring matter 
and these exert an influence upon the shade. For some 
dark shades advantage may be taken of the coloring matter 
in the tannage and less dye used. 

When the grain of the leather is greasy as well as cloudy 
it may be prepared for the process of coloring by drum- 
ming the leather in a solution of lactic acid and bichromate 
of potash. About one gallon of the acid and two pounds 
of the chrome should be used for fifty gallons of water, and 
the leather milled or drummed in this solution for thirty 
minutes, after it has been moistened and softened with 
warm water. This liquor may also be applied to give a 



352 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

fuller and more even appearance to the colors by being used 
as a striker to fix or fasten the dye upon the leather. 

Seasonings. 

Used as a seasoning upon both chrome and vegetable 
tanned leather, the following liquor produces good results : 
One-half ounce bichromate of potash, two pints acetic acid, 
two gallons of egg-albumen solution, and ten gallons of 
water. In order to clear the grain of grease one gallon of 
apple vinegar, and a little bichromate of potash, mixed 
with ten gallons of water, may be used. 

For black kangaroo leather this seasoning may be used : 
Five gallons of strong logwood liquor are blacked with five 
ounces of copperas ; then are added one and one-half pints 
of blood, five ounces of glycerine, and eight ounces of 
ammonia. To remove surface grease and to deepen the 
black of the finish, a solution of vinegar and bichromate of 
potash is very useful, applied after the leather has received 
the first glazing. Special care is necessary to rub the glaz- 
ing liquor, and indeed all liquors used in finishing, down 
into the grain. When this is not done the finish shows a 
grey bottom. 



CHAPTER XX. 

METHODS OF BLEACHING LEATHER. 

In many instances in the coloring of vegetable tanned 
leather, goat, sheep, calfskins, etc., it is considered advan- 
tageous to bleach the skins. This is especially desirable 
when the color of the skins resulting from the tannage is 
dark. A method of bleaching in frequent use is by sugar 
of lead and sulphuric acid. Correctly speaking, this is 
not bleaching but really coloring, since the light color ac- 
quired by the leather is the result of lead sulphate being 
deposited on the grain of the skins. None of the coloring 
matter is removed. It is generally a good plan to retan 
the skins in sumac before bleaching. Sumac tanned skins, 
of course, requiring no retanning. To properly prepare 
the skins for the process they should be taken in the dry 
or crust state and uniformly moistened with soft warm 
water. Then they should be milled in a pin-mill drum in 
warm borax water, so as to remove all particles of dirt, dust 
and tannin. A light retanning may then be given them. 
This is done preferably in a drum. The quantity of sumac 
to be used must be determined by the size and thickness of 
the skins, and ranges from one to two pounds for each 
dozen. The sumac bath should be warm, at a tempera- 
ture of 100 degrees F., and the skins should be drummed 
therein for from one to two hours, after which they should 
be washed off in warm water, and are then ready for 
bleaching. 

The bleaching may be done either in drums or vats, by 
running the skins in a sugar of lead solution of about two 
and one-half per cent, for thirty minutes, and then trans- 
ferring them to a bath of sulphuric acid of about three per 
23 ( 353 ) 



354 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

cent., and leaving them therein until they have become 
white. The operations may be repeated as often as is con- 
sidered necessary to get the skins sufficiently bleached. It 
is very important that all traces of the sulphuric acid are 
gotten rid of by very thorough washing in several changes 
of water. This method of bleaching has many unpleasant 
and objectionable features. Its cheapness and effectiveness 
are its chief recommendations. 

Another method of bleaching 

Is carried out by the use of permanganate of potash and 
bisulphite of soda and muriatic acid. The permanganate 
of potash liquor should be about a one per cent, solution, 
used warm, and the skins immersed therein for thirty 
minutes, when they are removed and thoroughly washed in 
clear water. After washing they are placed in a bath of 
bisulphite of soda and hydrochloric acid in the following 
proportions : Seven parts of bisulphite of soda and three 
parts of acid in fifty parts of water. In this bath the skins 
are left until they come to the desired shade. Peroxide of 
hydrogen is also used for bleaching. 

In a liquor made up of tanning material and an alkali, 
followed by a treatment with sulphuric acid, 

The color of dark tanned leather may be considerably 
lightened. The first bath consists preferably of quebracho 
extract and an alkali, such as borax. The temperature of 
this liquor should be maintained at about 120 degrees dur- 
ing the operation, and the leather requires an immersion 
of five or ten minutes according to its character and the 
effect desired. 

Upon being taken from this liquor the leather should be 
washed off in cold water. After this it is given an acid 
bath. Sulphuric acid may be used, also muriatic or oxalic 
acid. The temperature of this bath should be maintained 
at about 120 degrees, and the leather left in the same long 



METHODS OF BLEACHING LEATHER. 355 

enough to acquire the color desired. After the acid treat- 
ment, the leather is removed, drained and washed. 

When leather has acquired a dark color 

From the tannage, and is to be colored, it is advantageous 
to remove from the stock, part of the original tanning 
material, and to replace it with sumac. To accomplish 
this the leather is taken in the dry condition and uniformly 
moistened with warm soft water, by being dipped into a tub 
of the same, and then placed in piles for a number of hours 
or until it becomes soft and moistened through. 

It is then thoroughly washed in a drum in warm soft 
water, that is, water softened with borax, for thirty min- 
utes, when the water is run off and a fresh supply run in, 
and the washing and milling continued for another half 
hour. 

The leather is then treated with a weak liquor made up 
of water and sulphuric acid, in very dilute solution, for 
twenty minutes, after which it requires a very thorough 
washing in two or three changes of water. The leather is 
next treated with sumac, also in a drum, one to two pounds 
of sumac being used for each dozen skins. The tempera- 
ture of the sumac bath should be about 100 degrees Fan., 
and the leather should be drummed in the same for from 
one to two hours, then rinsed off, set out and is ready to be 
colored ; or it may be dried out and left in dry condition 
for some time until it is desired to color and finish it. For 
medium light shades the above method is satisfactory, but 
for very light and fancy shades the sugar of lead and sul- 
phuric acid method may be used. 

A process of bleaching leather, 

Patented by Messrs. W. H. Krug and E. J. Haley, is carried 
out according to the following description : A bleaching 
liquor is first prepared by forming an aqueous solution of 
tanning material in any well-known manner, the strength 



356 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

of the solution depending upon the character of the leather 
and the tannery practice. In this process the bleaching 
solution is preferably of the same, or of greater density 
than that to which the leather was last subjected in the 
preceding tanning process. 

To the solution of tanning material there is added a 
quantity of alkali, a combination of alkaline ingredients 
not only sufficient to clarify the same, or dissolve the insol- 
uble constituents naturally present in the tanning material, 
but in such excess as to secure the bleaching effect of the 
dye — that is, the color which is desired to be imparted to 
the leather, and according to the nature of the tanning 
material used. For securing leather of light colors the 
proportion of alkali is greater than when dark colored 
leathers are desired, and if the bleaching liquor is formed 
of the solution obtained of a bark, the proportion of alkali 
will be less than if it is formed from other materials, as 
quebracho extract, etc. The mixture thus obtained is then 
heated, preferably to a temperature of 100° to 140° Fahr., 
and is maintained during treatment at as nearly as pos- 
sible a uniform temperature, and also at a uniform strength 
or density, by the addition at intervals of such quantities 
of tanning material and alkali as are required for this pur- 
pose. The leather is immersed in the bleaching liquor 
and is maintained therein for a short period of time, say 
from one to ten minutes or more, according to the character 
of the leather and the effect desired, the immersing being 
continued for a greater length of time to secure a denser 
product. In using the term alkali there is meant an 
alkali, alkaline salt, or alkaline combination of ingredients, 
as for instance, sodium carbonate or borax, or a combina- 
tion thereof. 

After the treatment in the alkaline bleaching bath the 
leather is transferred to an acid bath. This acid bath con- 
sists of a weak aqueous solution of any suitable material or 
organic acid, as sulphuric, hydrochloric or oxalic acid, or a 



METHODS OF BLEACHING LEATHER. 357 

combination thereof, the solution varying in strength ac- 
cording to the character of the leather and the density of 
the bleaching alkaline liquor previously used, but being 
maintained as nearly as possible at a uniform strength dur- 
ing the treatment of the mass of leather to secure uniform 
results. The acid bath as before stated is preferably main- 
tained at as nearly a uniform temperature as possible from 
100° to 140° Fah., and the leather is immersed therein and 
permitted to remain a sufficient length of time to obtain 
the color and properties desired, the longer immersion se- 
curing a lighter color and heavier or denser leather. After 
the acid treatment the leather is removed, drained and 
washed with water to remove the acid. If it is desired to 
modify the color of the leather after the acid treatment, the 
leather may be immersed in a solution of tanning material, 
either with or without the addition of alkali, and be al- 
lowed to remain therein until the desired color and effect 
are obtained. This may be done before the leather is 
washed with water. 

In bleaching hemlock tanned sole leather, this process 
may be carried out as follows : Assuming that the tanning 
liquor in the last layer from which the leather is taken has 
a density of 40° barkometer, an alkali bleaching bath is 
prepared of a density of 45° barkometer, by dissolving 
ninety-two pounds of quebracho extract, fourteen pounds 
of borax, and twenty-eight pounds of sodium carbonate in 
every ten cubic feet of water (625 pounds). This bath is 
heated to 140 degrees Fahr., and the leather taken directly 
from the last layer in which the tanning operation has been 
completed and is immersed therein for five minutes, where- 
upon it is removed, drained for a few minutes and then 
immersed in the acid bath. Five pounds of sulfuric acid 
are dissolved in ten cubic feet of water and the solution is 
heated to 140 degrees Fahr. In this acid bath the leather 
remains for five minutes, whereupon it is removed and 
thoroughly rinsed in cold water. When operating upon a 



358 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

large number of sides, it is necessary to strengthen both the 
alkaline bleaching bath and the acid bath from time to 
time. In practice the density of the alkaline bath may 
fall to 40° barkometer, whereupon a sufficient quantity of 
very concentrated aqueous alkaline solution of quebracho 
extract must be added containing the same ingredients as 
the alkaline bleaching bath, and in the same proportions 
until the density of the alkaline bleaching bath again be- 
comes 45° barkometer. The acidity of the acid bath is 
maintained by adding after every fifty sides which have 
been immersed therein from three-tenths to five-tenths of a 
pound of sulphuric acid to every ten cubic feet of water. If 
it is now desired to impart to this bleached leather an oak 
color, the leather is immersed in a liquor made from oak 
bark having a density of 4:0° barkometer, and a temper- 
ature of 100° Fahr., and allowed to remain therein until 
the desired color is obtained. 

The above described treatment results in very material 
advantages over the ordinary process of bleaching. First, 
the leather instead of being reduced in weight, is main- 
tained or increased in weight, and consequently is of greater 
density resulting in greater durability of the articles made 
therefrom. Secondly, the bleach instead of being a sur- 
face bleach, is one which may be prolonged so as to affect 
the entire fibre of the leather so that articles made there- 
from will not vary in color from effects of wear. Thirdly, 
it is practicable, by varying the strength of the solution, to 
produce any desired shade and, therefore, to operate upon a 
mass of leather with uniform results in this respect. It is 
always preferable to make use of an alkaline bleaching bath 
in which the proportion of tanning material is greater than 
that from which the leather was taken in the preceding 
tanning operation, but it is possible to carry out this pro- 
cess with a bleaching solution in which the tanning mate- 
rial is in less proportion. 

The use of a bleaching solution consisting of tanning 



METHODS OP BLEACHING LEATHER. 359 

material, however, in connection with a sufficient quantity 
of alkali to produce the bleaching effect, instead of reduc- 
ing the weight and density of the leather, as usual, will 
maintain or increase it, and in proportion as greater weight 
is needed it is desirable to increase the proportion of tan- 
ning material and alkali in the solution. 

The particular ingredients used, the proportions of the 
same in the baths, and the density and temperatures of the 
bath may be varied, and depend upon the tannery practice. 

More is said on the subject of bleaching and clearing 
leather in the last chapter of this book. 



CHAPTER XXI. 

PEEPAEING HEAVY HIDES FOE TANNING. 

The tanners of hides receive their raw stock in one of 
three conditions, viz., green-salted, dry and dry -salted. All 
hides that are made into leather come to the tannery in one 
of these conditions. Native or domestic hides are generally 
green-salted. Imported hides are green-salted, dry and 
dry-salted. It does not matter in what condition hides are 
received, nor the kind of leather into which they are to be 
made, they require soaking in water, as a preliminary and 
preparatory process, before any attempt is made at remov- 
ing the hair or tanning the hides. 

The ends and objects to be accomplished during the soak- 
ing process are thorough softening of the hides and the re- 
moval from them of all foreign substances such as salt, dirt 
and blood. The hides should always be thoroughly soft- 
ened without being allowed to become flaccid. The im- 
portance of the soaking process is not always recognized ; 
and yet, because it comes at the very beginning of the 
leather-making operations, it is a matter of considerable 
consequence that the hides are thoroughly cleansed and 
softened in order that they may be worked the more satis- 
factorily through the subsequent processes. 

Salted hides when they are soaked too long lose some 
of their gelatine, and this results in loose and spongy 
leather. On the other hand, if the stock is not soaked long 
enough to accomplish the objects of the process, the grain 
of the finished leather shows up undesirable shades and 
streaks. In the soaking of salted hides it is a good method 
to follow to soak the hides for a number of hours in clean 
water, and then to either draw the hides out of the water 

(360) 



PREPAKING HEAVY HIDES FOR TANNING. 361 

and running it off replacing it with new, or to hang the 
hides over sticks and suspend them in the water so that 
the water can be easily changed. The water should be 
changed two or three times during the process, depending 
upon the condition of the hides. In some instances it is 
not necessary to change the water more than once. 

The changing cf the water not only hastens the softening, 
but also rids the hides of salt and dirt in a short time. 
Another object of changing the water is to prevent the 
accumulation of salt and dirt in the soaks, which do not 
act as preservatives, but on the contrary frequently cause a 
loss of substance by reason of the gelatine that is dissolved 
out of the hides. Hides soaked in hard water absorb large 
quantities of water, and consequently become soft in a short 
time. It is claimed, however, that hard water containing 
the salts of lime and magnesia, tends to affect the substance 
of the hides. It is well known that different results are 
obtained in various tanneries by the use of different kinds 
of water ; and also that the finest-textured leather is made 
when only clean soft water is used. Hard water is gener- 
ally softened by the addition of borax. About five pounds 
of borax soften one thousand gallons of water. It should 
be dissolved in hot water and poured into the soak water 
before the hides are put in. Sulphide of sodium may also 
be used with good results, as may also boric acid, which 
being an antiseptic prevents decomposition and loss of hide 
substance. 

Ordinary hides are sufficiently soaked in from twenty- 
four to forty-eight hours. No exact rule can be given or 
followed, as much depends upon the condition and thick- 
ness of the hides and the temperature of the water. It is 
important that all blood, salt and dirt be gotten rid of in 
the soaks. These substances, especially the blood, dirt and 
refuse from the stock soon putrefy, the putrefaction readily 
injuring the hides. For this reason, and also because of 
their unpleasant odor, it is not the best practice for a tanner 



362 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

to use soaks over and over for different lots of hides. Old 
stale soaks certainly soften hides in a short time, but very 
often at the expense of some desirable quality of the leather. 
Sometimes the defects that are the result of improper soak- 
ing, are not noticed until after the hides are tanned, and 
then no one can tell what caused them and the blame is 
laid in some other portion of the work. 

Pricked and pitted grain are some of the effects of care- 
less soaking. The former is in appearance similar to what 
would be caused by puncturing the grain of the hides with 
pins. This is sometimes caused by soaking for too long a 
time, especially in hot weather. Pitted grain is similar to 
the foregoing, only the holes are larger. The hides begin 
to decompose before they are taken from the water, and no 
subsequent treatment can remedy the defect. 

Soaking green-salted hides. 

A common method of soaking green-salted hides, among 
tanners of upper, sole and harness leather, is to put a pack 
of hides into the soak on one day, and on the next day to 
pull it out, and allow the dirty water to run off. Then 
the hides are put back into another clean, fresh soak for 
another day. Some tanners also mill their hides in a 
drum for a few minutes, but this is not always necessary. 
At the end of the soaking process the hides are removed 
from the water, drained, fleshed, split from head to tail, 
pinned together with hooks into a long chain and are then 
passed into the limes. 

When the soaked hides have been removed from the 
soaks, and before they are limed and unhaired, they are 
frequently piled in heaps. Heating occasionally sets in, 
especially in warm weather, and in a short time the stock 
is seriously damaged. When heating once sets in the hides 
rapidly decompose and the total loss of the stock can only 
be prevented by airing them at once or by immersing them 
in cold water. Heating always injures the stock, more or 



PKEPARING HEAVY HIDES FOR TANNING. 



363 



less, according to the degree of heat developed, and it is 
therefore very important to guard against loss in this way 
as much as possible. The hide piles should be handled 
frequently, or, better still, no delay should take place but 
the hides passed at once into the next process. Hides that 
have been preserved with salt and partly dried, require 
more thorough soaking than green-salted ones. The dry- 
ing of moist salty hides effects a change in the fibres, and 
the hides consequently need a soaking for two, three or 
four days, and a drumming in a drum, or working in a 
hide mill, in order to get them properly freshened up. 

Owing to the difficulties met with in soaking dry or flint 
hides, and bringing them back to the natural soft and pli- 
able condition necessary before they can be worked through 
the processes of the beamhouse and tanning, many tanners 
neglect this class of stock ; and yet when the soaking and 
softening are properly done, very good leather is made from 
dried hides. Certain it is that no class of hides with which 
tanners have to deal requires more thorough treatment in 
the beamhouse than those that are received in flint -dry 
condition. In many instances the work is not fully under- 
stood, and the results are that the hides are not treated 
right' and are subjected to much abuse and condemnation. 
Having been dried in the raw state, they are almost water- 
proof, and as they are very thick and heavy they are soft- 
ened with considerable difficulty. Frequently too, before 
the hides become thoroughly dry, decay and putrefaction 
set in, which although not noticed at the time, will become 
readily apparent during the soaking process. Then every 
spot that was not perfectly cured or that was tainted with 
decay before drying will appear either by the hair coming 
off, the grain peeling or by portions of the hide rotting 
away. The uneven thickness of the hides also causes very 
uneven softening, and even when they are received by the 
tanner in good condition the thinner portions are liable to 
decay before the thicker portions have become thoroughly 



364 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

softened. It is very necessary that all portions of the hides 
be thoroughly soft before the process of depilating is begun. 
When not thoroughly soft the limes cannot do their work 
and trouble is encountered at any stage of the subsequent 
manipulation. The placing of the hides in clear water with 
nothing to assist in the softening is liable to result in injury 
to the hides, since before the thick portions become suffi- 
ciently soft the thin ones along the sides and in the flanks 
suffer more or less injury. The long soaking also results 
in the loss of much of the hide gelatine, and this always 
results in loose and spongy leather. The grain is very apt 
to be injured by what is known as pitted grain, and much 
time is unprofitably consumed. In order, therefore, to 
hasten the soaking, and at the same time to bring the hides 
through in good shape, it is necessary that some solution of 
chemicals be added to the soaking water that will accom- 
plish the desired results. Borax and sulphide of sodium 
are safe and very efficient for the purpose. When borax is 
used, from two to five pounds are taken for each one thousand 
gallons of water. It should be dissolved in a separate vessel 
and poured into the water in the vats under vigorous stir- 
ring. Sulphide of sodium is, however, without doubt, the 
best softener that can be used, being not only very rapid 
in its action but comparatively cheap. From two to five 
pounds are enough for each one thousand gallons of water. 
Caustic soda when used in moderate quantity produces 
good results, although it has a tendency to dissolve hide 
substance if used in too large quantity. Boracic acid may 
also be used in the soaks, and being an antiseptic prevents, 
to some extent, decomposition and loss of substance. 

Danger of putrefaction. 

The most serious danger in connection with the soaking 
of dry hides is the liability to putrefaction. This may be 
guarded against by the use of the articles mentioned above 
and by keeping the soak vats clean by frequent changes of 



PREPARING HEAVY HIDES FOR TANNING. 365 

water. Old stale soaks in which pack after pack of hides 
are softened and in which blood, salt and dirt accumulate 
and soon putrefy, certainly soften the hides in a reasonably 
short time, but often at the expense of some desirable quality 
of the leather. The bacteria of putrefaction that are gen- 
erated in foul soaks rapidly dissolve the hide substance, and 
thus affect the texture and weight of the leather. 

A good method to follow is to soak the hides for two days, 
or until they become partially softened ; then to split them 
from head to tail, put them into an ordinary revolving- 
drum or pin-mill and drum them for some time. This 
helps in the softening. The sides may then be put back 
into the soaks for another day or two, and reworked if they 
require it. A hide mill or fulling stocks are also used. 
The hides should not be subjected to the milling or fulling 
process until they are sufficiently soft to bend them without 
injury. The softer and cleaner the hides are before they 
are unhaired the better will be the final results. 

A good method of soaking dry hides is to put them in a 
strong brine or solution of salt and water. In a soak pre- 
pared of salt and water the hides may remain three or four 
days, they may then be worked in a hide-mill or drum and 
then resoaked in the salt water for four or five days longer 
or until they have become soft. Before hides treated in this 
way are limed the salt should be gotten rid of either by 
soaking or washing the hides in clear cold water. 

An old practice and one that is sometimes employed even 
at the present time, consists in soaking dry hides in old tan 
liquors. Under ordinary conditions such liquors soften the 
hides in a short time, from twelve to twenty -four hours-; but 
their use is very unpleasant and somewhat unhealthy. The 
fibres of the hides are contracted and this results in shrink- 
age. After dry hides are soaked and softened, they are 
further prepared for tanning, and are tanned in much the 
same manner as salted hides are treated. The methods 
of handling hides vary of course with different manufac- 
turers according to the class of leather being made. 



366 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The methods of preparing dry hides for tanning, after 
they have been soaked and softened, are not radically dif- 
ferent from, those employed upon salted hides. They vary 
according to the class of leather being made. The office of 
any material used for the purpose of preparing hides for 
soft, supple leather, is to swell and distend the fibres, thus 
loosening the hair roots so that the hair can be readily re- 
moved ; then to dissolve the perishable animal matter of the 
hides so that it can be removed before tanning. When these 
things have been done, soft pliable leather can be made 
and not before. To accomplish these objects lime has been 
used for a great many years. Its use, when it is employed 
alone, has some unpleasant features. On hides intended 
for soft leather, the action of lime is to dissolve the animal 
matter faster than it distends the fibres, and the result is 
loose, spongy leather with a loss of weight and substance. 
If the hides are not limed long enough to dissolve all of the 
animal matter in them, the resulting leather finishes up 
hard and firm. To overcome the objectionable features of 
lime, sulphide of sodium and red arsenic are used. These 
materials when properly used, loosen and split up the fibres, 
thus loosening the hair in a shorter time than when lime is 
used alone. The}^ do not dissolve as much of the hide sub- 
stance as lime does ; and when either of the two articles is 
used in conjunction with lime a very satisfactory process is 
obtained, the results of which are the unhairing of the hides 
and the preparing of them for tanning in a comparatively 
short time and in a very satisfactory manner. 

For the process of preparing hides for soft and pliable 
leather no exact rule can be given or followed. A great 
deal depends upon the tannage that is used, and the degree 
of flexibility desired in the leather. It is generally consid- 
ered by good tanners, that to start the sides in old weak 
lime liquors and leave them therein for two or three days, 
or until they are thoroughly impregnated with the liquor, 
and then to increase the strength of the lime by the addi- 



PREPARING HEAVY HIDES FOR TANNING. 367 

tion of new lime, or to pass the sides along into stronger 
limes, is better than to use strong limes at the start, especially 
when leather, of which softness and smoothness of grain are 
essential qualities, is wanted. The use of sulphide of sodium 
or red arsenic, mixed with the lime, keeps the grain from 
becoming rough, shortens the time of liming, and helps to 
make soft leather of fine texture. Both materials are very 
energetic and rapid of action. Some tanners prefer red 
arsenic to sulphide of sodium, while others get the best re- 
sults when sulphide of sodium is used. Red arsenic gives 
the leather considerable elasticity and smoothness of grain, 
more so than the sulphide of sodium. The main thing for 
a tanner to guard against is liming the sides too long. 
From five to seven days is generally sufficient, although 
much depends upon the season of the year, and the temper- 
ature and strength of the liquor. The best results are 
obtained when limes are used over and over for succeeding 
lots of sides, provided these limes are kept clean and not 
allowed to become foul. New limes used during the entire 
process do not give to the leather the right feeling of soft- 
ness and pliability. They also produce harshness of grain 
and fibre. The sides are tied together with hooks upon 
coming from the soaks and after having been trimmed 
and fleshed ; and before going into the limes they should 
be well drained in order to get rid of salty and dirty water. 
They may be left for a day or two in an old mat lime. 

A good lime can be prepared by using two-thirds old 
liquor and one-third new, that is, of six feet of liming liquor 
in the vat, four feet may be old and weak liquor and two 
feet new and fresh, or of six hundred gallons in the vat four 
hundred gallons may be old and two hundred new. In 
preparing new lime one hundred pounds of lime may be 
slacked in twelve pails of hot water. For this amount five 
pounds of arsenic may be used. It may be dissolved sep- 
arately in hot water and then added to the slacked lime. 
Both materials should be thoroughly dissolved before com- 



368 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ing into contact with the stock. The quantities of arsenic 
and lime mentioned are enough for two hundred and fifty 
sides to begin with. After the sides have been in the liquor 
for one day, they may be drawn out and the lime well 
stirred up from the bottom of the vat. If the sides are 
allowed to drain before they are put back, they will take 
up the lime again more readily. When vats with paddles 
are used the pulling out is not necessary, although it is a 
good plan to keep the lime well stirred up from the bottom 
of the vat. On the third day it is well to strengthen the 
lime by the addition of fresh lime, or the sides may be 
passed along into a stronger lime. The strength to begin 
with should be about three degrees Twaddle, and by the 
addition of lime and arsenic the strength should be about 
six degrees towards the end of the process. These are safe 
strengths to work by, but are not fixed. 

When too much fresh lime is used toward the end of the 
process, the grain is liable to be roughened. This may be 
overcome by washing in a manure bate, followed by a bath 
of lactic acid. After the hair is loosened it is wise to leave 
the sides in the lime for a day or two longer, as this not 
only allows the hair to come off readily and cleanly but 
also makes the leather softer. 

A good method to follow is to keep the sides in old weak 
limes for four or five days, being handled each day and 
passed into stronger limes. On the fifth day the sides may 
be put into fresh lime. This may be made up of one hun- 
dred and fifty pounds of lime and eight pounds of arsenic 
for three thousand pounds of raw stock. To strengthen 
this lime when the sides are hauled out the next day, sev- 
enty pounds of lime and four pounds of arsenic may be 
used. On the seventh day the sides may be unhaired, and 
then left in strong lime for twenty-four hours, when the 
process will be completed. No dirt should be allowed to 
accumulate in the limes, as the cleaner the limes are the 
brighter and cleaner is the grain of the finished leather. 



PREPARING HEAVY HIDES FOR TANNING. 369 

When sulphide of sodium is used with lime it is employed 
in much the same manner that red arsenic is used. The first 
lime in which the sides are placed may be old and weak, 
and the sides may remain in this lime one day. Then the 
lime is strengthened up with sulphide of sodium ; for 
three thousand pounds of raw stock two hundred pounds 
of lime and twenty pounds of sulphide of sodium for fresh 
lime. On the third or fourth day, for strengthening up the 
lime seventy-five pounds of lime and ten pounds of sul- 
phide of sodium may be used. From five to seven days 
liming is sufficient, the sides being then unhaired. 

Satisfactory results are also obtained by the use of about 
one hundred and fifty pounds of lime and fifteen pounds of 
sulphide of sodium for each one thousand pounds of stock. 
The sides should be handled each day and upon the third 
day the liquor should be strengthened by the addition of 
one-third the quantities of lime and red arsenic first put in, 
A little more lime may be added upon the fourth day, and 
in six days the stock should be ready for unhairing. 

The best method of liming the hides must be learned by 
a tanner from experience, and depends largely upon the tan- 
nage used and the class of leather being made. As a con- 
sequence it is impossible to give any hard and fixed rule 
for determining the strength and length of time consumed 
in the liming process. The old limes can be used over and 
over by being strengthened up with lime and chemicals. 
Some tanners start their stock in new and strong limes and 
finish up in weak ones. They say that this method makes 
the leather very plump as well as soft. To start the hides 
in an old lime and gradually increase the; strength of the 
liming liquors is, however, the preferred method, as there 
is not the sudden and violent swelling of the fibres, which 
often results in making the grain loose from the flesh. Ex- 
treme plumping at the start has a tendency to weaken the 
fibres. •''•'/ 

For the making of soft, pliable leather, of which some 
24 



370 PRACTICAL TANNING 

elasticity and smoothness of grain are essential qualities, it 
is necessary to get rid of all the lime and alkaline sulphides 
acquired by the stock during the process of liming. This 
result is accomplished by the process commonly called bat- 
ing. The prime object of this process is to remove the 
lime, thereby getting the stock in neutral condition to ac- 
cept the tannage. No lime whatever can be allowed in the 
stock, lime being the great obstacle in the way of getting 
soft and even-colored leather. 

Tanners, as a rule, recognize the importance of the bat- 
ing process, as they are well aware that much of the quality 
and texture of their leather depends upon how this process 
is carried out. 

Dog, pigeon and hen manures have been used for a great 
many years. Their use is unpleasant in the extreme and 
attended by many dangers. To take the place of manures 
several articles have been Introduced, some of which have 
met with success in practical use. The use of chemical 
bates is on the increase, owing to their cleanliness, safety 
and cheapness. In another part of this book descriptions 
of several practical bating processes are given. 

Bird dung is very rapid in its action, and makes the 
leather silky and tough, but without much spring. On the 
other hand dog dung has a great softening effect, and pro- 
duces leather with considerable elasticity. The best results 
are obtained by mixing the two kinds. Chicken manure 
is also in general use. A detailed description of manure 
bating is given in the chapter on goatskins. The process 
is applied to sides in much the same manner as upon goat- 
skins ; and the best results are secured when, after bating, 
the sides are washed in a weak lactic acid bath. To accom- 
plish rapid tanning the sides must be perfectly free from 
lime before they go into the tanning liquors. 

Lactic acid is one of the safest and cleanest articles that 
a tanner can use as a bate. For sides intended for either 
shoe or glove leather it may be used with very good results. 



PREPARING HEAVY HIDES FOR TANNING. 371 

After the sides are taken from the limes, they are washed, 
preferably in warm water, in order to remove from them as 
much lime as possible. A paddle vat or reel is filled with 
the requisite quantity of water heated to about 95 degrees 
Fah. To each one hundred gallons of warm water about 
one gallon of lactic acid may be used. The amount of acid 
required, however, depends upon the amount of lime pres- 
ent, and may be varied to suit the requirements. A warm 
bate serves to neutralize the lime and also to bring down 
the stock, making it thin and soft, while a cool bate, though 
it neutralizes the lime satisfactorily, leaves the stock plump. 
After being paddled about in the liquor for from one to two 
hours, the sides will be found to be sufficiently drenched to 
be removed and given the usual working upon the grain. 
Stock bated in this way will bear a much harder working 
upon the grain than stock bated with manures. After the 
working, the sides may be put back into another drench 
prepared with one-half the quantity of acid used in the first 
instance. At the end of one hour they may be removed 
and washed off, and will then be in condition for tanning. 
The lactic acid baths can be freshened up for succeeding 
lots of skins by the addition of one-half the quantity of 
acid used in the first instance. When the hides have been 
split after liming, less bating is required than when they 
are not split until after being tanned. 

Lactic acid dissolves the lime in the stock without affect- 
ing the tissues or fibres of the hides. 

Leather made by a vegetable process frequently shows 
dark and brittle spots upon the grain. These are the result 
of lime left in the stock. Hard, brittle leather, with little 
or no give or elasticity also results when lime is left in the 
stock. 



CHAPTER XXII. 

SIDE LEATHERS FOR SHOE PURPOSES AND METHODS 
OF TANNING THEM. 

In the making of side leathers that are finished upon the 
grain and intended for shoe leather various processes of 
tanning are employed. Straight hemlock liquors are used 
and combinations of hemlock extract with other extracts,, 
such as quebracho and gambier; palmetto extract is used 
alone, also in combination with other tannages ; gambier is 
used in the same manner as palmetto ; the dongola process 
is sometimes employed, also combination processes of 
chrome and vegetable tannages. The tanning is done in 
vats provided with paddles by which the tanning liquor is- 
stirred, and also in pits in which the sides are suspended, 
and not subjected to much agitation. The less agitation 
the -sides are subjected to the fuller and plumper is the 
leather, especially in the flanks and along the sides. 

Some tanners start the tanning in hemlock liquors,, and 
after the stock is well struck and split, they finish in gam- 
bier or other liquors. 

Gambier has long been a staple tanning material. The 
leather it makes is soft and tough and readily adapted for 
coloring and finishing in any desired manner. Very good 
leather is made by- combining, gambier with a chrome or 
mineral process. 

The tanning with gambier, when it is used alone, is a 
very simple straightforward process. The sides are entered 
into a weak liquor at the start, which is gradually strength- 
ened by the addition of fresh gambier until it becomes 
fairly strong towards the end of the process. Common salt 
serves a useful purpose in gambier tanning. It assists- 

(372) 



SIDE LEATHERS FOR SHOE PURPOSES. '-373 

greatly in making Soft leather and also hastens the tanning 
process and prevents contraction of the leather fibres. Pad- 
dle-vats are very convenient to use. It is well for the tan- 
ner to divide the vats into three sections. In the first sec- 
tion the sides are handled and colored; in the second section 
the tanning is carried forward until the stock is ready for 
splitting ; and in the third and last section the retanning 
or tanning after splitting is done. At the beginning the 
liquor may be four to five degrees barkometer. After the 
sides have been put into the liquor they should be stirred 
about by the paddles for one hour to assure a good color 
upon the grain. The liquor should be strengthened twice 
each day, the quantity of fresh gambier liquor required 
depending upon the size of the vats and the strength of the 
liquors to begin with. No exact quantities pan be stated, 
as each tanner must decide this and many other points by 
his judgment. The turning over of the sides in the liquor 
hastens the tanning and by changing their position assures 
a uniform color. The liquors used at the beginning of the 
process for coloring and striking should be run out at least 
as often as once a week as they soon become almost worth- 
less. When still tanning is done, the sides are nailed on 
sticks and left hanging in the liquors. They are tanned, 
split and retanned. Palmetto extract is a very good re- 
tanning material for both splits and grains. It puts the 
leather into condition to stand heat well and to take and 
carry the grease well, and it also gives to it waterproof 
qualities and toughens it. After the leather is tanned 
through it may be strengthened and cleared by being run 
in a drum with a solution of alum and salt. 

In about thirty gallons of water are dissolved fifteen 
pounds of alum and ten pounds of salt, this quantity of 
liquor being enough for one hundred and twenty sides of 
medium size. In this solution the sides are drummed for 
thirty minutes, and should then be allowed to drain off well. 
It is well to remove the surplus tanning liquor by washing 



374 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the leather in a drum in lukewarm water for about twenty 
minutes. This is an advantage for colored leather but not 
necessary on black leather. Then the leather is ready for 
pressing, and may be fat -liquored and dried out ; or it 
may be dried out first and then moistened back and fat- 
liquored. 

Palmetto extract 
Is a very useful tanning material to use either in place of 
gambier, or in combination with the same. It may also be 
used with good results in conjunction with hemlock and 
other tannages. The sides may be tanned in liquors made 
up of palmetto and other extracts in almost any proportion, 
or they may be well struck with hemlock or other liquors, 
and after being split they may be retanned in palmetto 
liquors. This material gives good weight and is a rapid 
tanner. It makes full, plump leather, tough and of good 
color, and able to stand a great deal of heat. 

A good method of tanning the sides in palmetto liquor 
Is to take the same after fleshing, bating and washing and 
paddle them about in a bath of muriatic acid for one hour. 
For fifteen hundred pounds of sides nine pounds of muriatic 
acid may be used, and after this the sides may be passed 
through a manure bath for one hour, at a temperature of 
85° F., and then slicked out and drained. The tanning- 
may be begun by nailing the sides on sticks and immersing 
them in an extract liquor beginning at 12° Barkometer, 
and ending at 20°, the time being about six days. Care 
should be taken to color every part alike. The sides are 
then taken off the sticks and passed into a 30° Baume pal- 
metto liquor. In this liquor they should be handled twice 
daily so that the tanning may be uniform. In about six 
days the sides are tanned through, and are then pressed 
and split. The retanning is done in a weak palmetto liquor 
12° Baume, which is increased to 30°. In six hours thej^ 
are thoroughly tanned. The grain is made tough and 



SIDE LEATHERS FOE SHOE PURPOSES. 375 

strong and not loose or liable to "pipe." Light sides, or 
sides that have been split before tanning, and kips may be 
readily tanned in drums. They are started in a weak, cold 
palmetto liquor for one hour, the strength of which may 
be about 10° Barkometer. They are then tanned in a 
drum with a liqiior of 30° Baume, 51 Twaddell, at a tem- 
perature of 75° F. For seven hundred pounds of hides 
four hundred and fifty pounds of extract are used. The 
wheel should rotate the same number of times one way as 
the other. In from six to eight hours the stock will be 
tanned. It may then be pressed, split and retanned for 
one hour in a liquor of 8° or 10° Barkometer. It may 
also be retanned in a drum for one hour with strength of 
liquor 30° Baume, 51 Twaddell, after which it is washed in 
lukewarm water. The water used for this washing may 
be used for coloring a fresh pack of stock as it comes from 
the beam-house. The leather after washing is pressed and 
fat-liquored. 

The tanning of side leather may be commenced in hem- 
lock liquors, and after splitting the sides may be retanned 
in gambier or palmetto liquors. This method is Very satis- 
factory. Tanning extracts are used in a great number of 
combinations. Quebracho and gambier are combined with 
good results, also hemlock and quebracho. The latter 
named tannage produces the best results when it is used in 
combination with some other tannage. At one time que- 
bracho extract was almost all made in liquid form, but 
the solid extract is now preferred, owing to economy in 
freights, etc. 

Quebracho, its qualities and its use 

Quebracho is not a good plumper, and for this reason 
some material is necessary to plump the leather. Lactic 
acid used in the handling process increases the plumpness 
of the stock. A small per cent, of divi-divi used in connec- 
tion with quebracho tends to improve the color. 



376 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

The Quebracho tree grows in the central part of the 
Argentine Republic, and is one of the hardest woods known. 
It is most difficult to cut, and derives its name " (Quebrar " 
— to break — " ache " — -an axe) from the fact that the best 
axes go to pieces in cutting down the trees. The trees are 
of extremely slow growth, and logs such as are shipped to 
the United States and Europe for purposes of making ex- 
tract are often a thousand years old. The heaviest ma- 
chinery is required for cutting this wood up into a form 
suitable for extraction, and, owing to its great weight, the 
handling of Quebracho logs, which often weigh two or 
three tons each, is both difficult and dangerous. The bark 
of the Quebracho tree is useless for tanning purposes, and 
together with the sap-wood is removed before the logs are 
ready for shipment. 

The extract made from the wood of the Quebracho tree 
is different from all other known tanning extracts, chiefly 
in the fact, that it will not turn sour. In addition to this, 
it is a comparatively clean extract, that is to say, it con- 
tains a higher percentage of tan to a given density than any 
other of the well known extracts. Inasmuch as it has little 
or no tendency to fermentation, Quebracho is extremely 
useful for controlling the acid in tan yards that tend to go 
sour. On the other hand, if it is used in yards, where con- 
siderable acid is needed, care must be taken to prevent the 
sweetening up of the liquors by the use of too much of this 
extract. This is obviated by the use of artificial acid, or, 
as in Europe, by the employment of other tannins, which 
contain a large proportion of other materials. 

Quebracho, being a sweet tan, is not of itself a plumper, 
and if it is used on leather which has not been properly 
plumped, is apt to quickly tan the outside of the hides, and 
thereby prevent the penetration of the tan to the inside. 
This results in cracky leather not properly filled. If, 
however, hides are plumped before going into Quebracho 
liquor, this material will penetrate, fill, and produce tough 
pliable stock of light color. 



SIDE LEATHERS FOR SHOE PURPOSES. 6 i i 

A very important point to be observed in using Que- 
bracho extract is, that it should be dissolved properly. Solid 
■extract needs to be boiled up in hot water, in a tub contain- 
ing a false screen bottom which prevents the extract adher- 
ing to a solid surface. The liquid extract should be dis- 
solved in water standing at 180 degrees. The resulting 
solutions from both grades of extract, should then be stirred 
well and allowed to cool down gradually before being used. 
It is a great mistake to run off hot Quebracho liquor into 
cold vat liquors, or in fact to suddenly chill any extract 
liquor. Such sediment as remains in the cooling tub may 
be worked up with fresh water on a tail leach or elsewhere. 

A great deal depends upon the proper dissolving of Que- 
bracho in its successful use in the vats, and it is far better 
that such precipitation as takes place should go on in the 
•cooling tub rather than on the leather. 

Ihe use of the Barkometer. The barkometer underrates 
the strength of tannin in Quebracho when compared to the 
strength of ordinary bark liquors. This is owing to the 
fact that the Quebracho wood contains very much less ma- 
terial which forces up a barkometer than does bark. A 
pure Quebracho liquor, for instance, made up from nothing 
but Quebracho extract and water at 20° Barkometer is fully 
-as strong in tan as a sweet bark liquor of about 30° Bark- 
ometer. This variation in the barkometer value must be 
taken into consideration, or else the tanner is apt to get the 
Quebracho liquor too strong and burn the fibre of the 
leather. 

Quebracho, being sweet, tends to make pliable leather 
rather than hard leather, the latter resulting more or less 
from sour liquors. On heavy leathers, such as harness and 
belting, it is extremely useful on account of the toughness 
which it gives to the leather. On sole leather, when it is 
used with bark, it gives a somewhat mellower feel than the 
straight bark tannage. 

It is being used with success on upper leathers for a fore- 



378 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

tannage, and also for retanning splits coming therefrom. 
On patent leather it is particularly useful on account of the 
pliable qualities which it gives to stock that is to receive a. 
coating of varnish. 

Quebracho produces leather of an oak shade, with a very 
slight pinkish tendency. Leather tanned with this mate- 
rial, however, should not be dried in the sun, as the color 
becomes red on exposure to the light. 

Hides that are intended for quebracho liquors should be 
very thoroughly cleansed from lime, that is to say, properly 
bated, since Quebracho and lime do not go at all well to- 
gether. Bark liquors act more or less as a bate all the way 
through, but Quebracho, with its peculiar sweetness, does not 
do so and on coming into contact with lime in hide fibre 
produces bad grain and bad color. 

Quebracho is useful in the tanning of heavy leathers in 
strengthening the head liquors, and in keeping them sweet. 
It .penetrates very quickly and by its use tanners are often 
enabled to increase the weight of their leather. The best 
results are obtained by mixing Quebracho extract with other 
tanning materials, such as oak and hemlock in the tanning 
of heavy leathers. The process of tanning is quickened by 
the use of Quebracho, and the cost of tanning is somewhat 
cheapened. It is useful in making sole leather as well as 
upper and harness. 

Retanning with gambier or palmetto 

Leather that has been tanned in a chrome process may 
be retanned with gambier or palmetto. The latter extract 
has the good effects of neutralizing any trace of acid left in 
the leather, and also serves to put the leather in good con- 
dition to receive any shade of color or black. The grain ia 
made smooth and remains so. For the retanning, for three 
thousand pounds of chrome leather, three gallons of pal- 
metto extract and one pint of glycerine may be used. The 
extract is dissolved in the amount of warm water necessary, 



SIDE LEATHERS FOE, SHOE PURPOSES. 379 1 

the same being when ready for use about 90 degrees of tem- 
perature, and the leather drummed in the liquor for from 
one to two hours. When a one-bath process is used, the 
sides may be tanned first in chrome liquors in drums, or 
paddle-vats, and then retanned in gambier or palmetto. 
For the chrome process, the sides should be split before 
they are tanned, immediately after liming, and then bated, 
washed and tanned. The sides may also be given the 
palmetto liquor first, and afterwards the chrome process. 
One-bath liquors are handled in the same manner as bark 
or gambier liquors — that is, the sides are started in a weak 
liquor and this is gradually strengthened until it becomes 
strong, containing about five gallons of concentrated tan- 
ning liquor in one hundred gallons of water. The tanning 
with chrome liquors is also done in drums. 

Salt is necessary in most chrome processes. It keeps the 
stock open and plump and receptive to the tanning liquor, 
and also hastens the tanning process and helps in making 
soft leather. 

In paddle-vats or vats with rockers, a two per cent, liquor 
is used at the start, and this is gradually strengthened until 
it becomes a five or six per cent, solution, that is, to one 
hundred gallons of water in the vat about two gallons of 
tanning fluid are used at the beginning of the process and 
during the tanning enough concentrated tanning liquor is 
added to make the liquor from four to six per cent. Soft 
water should always be used, as hard water contains too 
much lime and magnesia. 

The sides may be first tanned with alum and salt and 
then chrome tanned. The less pounding and drumming 
the sides are subjected to the finer and plumper the 
leather. The best method of tanning is by suspending the 
stock in the liquor, as by this method there is little or no 
pounding or agitation. The first cost of tanning sides by 
suspension is more than by other ways, as a large quantity 
of liquor must be made up, but after one lot of sides is 



380 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

taken out another lot can be put in and the entire strength 
thus exhausted; the suspension method being thus the 
■cheapest in the long run. Before chrome tanned sides are 
retanned in a vegetable process they should be thoroughly 
washed and pressed. 

The dongola tannage 
Consists of salt, alum and gambier. The sides, when split 
before being tanned, may be tanned in the dongola liquor, 
or when they are not split until after tanning they may be 
started in hemlock liquors or any other liquor or combina- 
tions of tannages, and when well struck with the tanning 
liquor they may be split and retanned in a dongola liquor. 

A combination process of gambier and quebracho 
Also makes good leather. The sides for this process may be 
started in bark tan liquors and left therein for four or five 
days, then washed well in cold water, pressed and split. 
After splitting the stock may be skived and then split again 
to the desired substance. The splits may go back into the 
bark liquor for the retannage. 

In this way the splits are all bark tanned. The grain 
sides may be tanned, or rather retanned, in quebracho and 
gambier. Gambier may be used alone, or palmetto may be 
mixed with quebracho, and either palmetto or quebracho 
may also be used alone. Some tanners who tan the grains 
of the split sides in a chrome process first mill the sides 
in salt and alum before splitting them. When this is 
done, the grains go at once into chrome process while the 
splits are tanned out in a vegetable process. The best 
way to treat such splits full of alum and salt is to mill 
them in a drum in a weak gambier liquor until they 
are thoroughly softened. Then they may be retanned 
in extract or bark liquors until they are thorooghly 
tanned and filled. In this way no salt and alum will be 
left in the stock to spew out upon the surface after the 
leather is dried out. To wash the splits in water previous 



SIDE LEATHERS FOR SHOE PURPOSES. 381 

to putting them in the bark or extract liquors makes them 
fiat. and lacking in plumpness. It would be impossible to 
plump them again, and nothing but flabby leather would 
result. By milling them up in a gambier liquor the plump- 
ness and fullness are retained. 

When the sides are split immediately after the liming 
process is completed, the splits should be bated and 
drenched, and then tanned in bark or extract liquors. In 
vats from eighteen to twenty days suffice. The grains taken 
from the sides in this way of splitting them may be bated 
and washed and tanned in chrome, gambier, palmetto or 
combination processes. This branch of leather making is 
a success, the demand for leather made in this way being 
on the increase. By splitting the hides in the green condi- 
tion, recently made more practicable than ever by improve- 
ments in the belt knife splitting machine, there is given a 
yield of leather from one to one and one-half pounds greater 
per side than when the splitting is done after the sides have 
been partially tanned. Neither is there any strength lost 
by green splitting. 

A good dongola liquor. 

In some instances sides that have been tanned in hem- 
lock or combination liquors are split and the grains are 
then retanned in dongola liquor, A, good dongola liquor 
for this purpose may be made of the following proportions : 
In one hundred gallons of water are dissolved by boiling 
thirty pounds of salt and forty pounds of alum. These 
should be boiled until they are thoroughly dissolved. One 
hundred and eighty pounds of gambier are boiled in two 
hundred and fifty gallons of water until dissolved, and the 
gambier liquor is then added to the salt and alum solution 
in a vat or pit. B}^ the addition of one hundred gallons 
more of water and one quart of sulphuric acid there are 
made five hundred gallons of dongola liquor. 

When the retanning in the ,dpngola liquor is completed 



o5Z PRACTICAL TANNING. 

the leather is washed and pressed, and then given oil in a 
drum. Three gallons of neatsfoot oil may be used for this 
purpose for each three hundred pounds of leather. Fish 
oil may also be used. The leather is drummed in the oil 
for twenty minutes, and then hung up and dried out. The 
oil prevents the grain from cracking during drying. The 
sides are then stored away until they are to be finished. 
When a dongola process is used from the beginning, the 
sides are pickled after bating and washing in salt, sulphuric 
acid and water — five hundred gallons of the latter and two 
hundred pounds of salt, and thirty-five pounds of acid being 
used, and the sides stirred about therein for six hours. 
Then they are entered into a gambier, salt and alum liquor. 
The gambier liquor should be about six degrees barkometer, 
to which are added ten pounds of alum and seven pounds 
of salt for each one hundred gallons of liquor. When 
tanned, the sides are drained or pressed and then split. The 
second tanning liquor should be a straight gambier liquor. 
Leather is also made by applying first the alum and salt, 
and then the gambier liquor. 

The strength of tanning liquors must be decided by the 
tanner for himself. It depends upon the season of the year 
and upon the results of the liquor upon the stock. The 
best guide to follow is constant observation of the effects 
of the liquors upon the leather. 

The splits taken from the sides are tanned in almost as 
man} 7 ways as the grains. The process used depends upon 
what the tanned leather is to be used for, and may be hem- 
lock, quebracho, gambier, dongola, bark or combination. 
Splits are used for a great number of purposes — innersol- 
ing, chair leather, mitten stock, wax shoe leather, binding 
leather and many other uses. 

CHROME-TANNED SIDE LEATHER. 

When the grains come from the splitting machine, they 
may be put back into lime for a day or two, depending 



SIDE LEATHERS FOR SHOE PURPOSES. 383 

upon how much liming they received before splitting. For 
the bating process manure may be used, but it is best to 
combine it with lactic acid, that is to give the grains a 
drenching in lactic acid after they have been bated with 
manure. Lactic acid may also be used alone, also any 
other process of bating with which the tanner may be 
familiar. Pigeon manure seems to be better adapted to 
this class of stock than any other. It may be combined 
with hen manure in equal proportions with good results. 
After the grains have been bated in a manure bate they 
should be drenched in lactic acid. A bath should be pre- 
pared of warm water preferably in a paddle-vat, and for 
every hundred pounds of sides that have been bated with 
manure from one-fourth to one-half of a pound of lactic 
acid should be added to the warm water. In the prepared 
drench, the grains should be drenched for three-fourths of 
.an hour, then washed off in warm water and are then 
ready for tanning. The grains can also be drenched in a 
drum, being run therein for fifteen minutes. To drench 
the stock with lactic acid after it has been bated with 
manure is the best possible manner of preparing it, as it 
makes it perfectly clean and free from lime. 

The use of manure may be dispensed with and the grains 
bated and drenched with lactic acid in the following man- 
ner : After the grains come from the limes or the splitting 
machine and have been washed, a bath of warm water is 
prepared and for ever}' hundred pounds of stock one pound 
of lactic acid should be added to the water. The sides are 
processed in this liquor for about two hours; they are then 
put through the slating machine or worked on the grain, 
after which they are again drenched with lactic acid in a 
bath made up of sufficient warm water and one-half of a 
pound of acid for every hundred pounds of stock. In this 
they are processed for one hour ; and are then washed in 
clean water and are ready to tan. 

A lactic acid bath can be used over and over by freshen- 



384 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ing it up each time with one-half the quantity of acid used 
in the first instance. 

Tanning the grains. 

To accomplish the tanning of the grains both one-bath 
and two-bath processes may be used. When the regular 
two-bath process is used, the sides need not be pickled 
previous to tanning. Two-bath processes have been fully 
described in other portions of this work, and it is not neces- 
sary to repeat the descriptions here. The proportions of in- 
gredients used, and the manner of using them are the same 
as when other classes of skins are being tanned. 

When the one-bath process is used there is always a ten- 
denc} r of the liquors to draw the grain and contract the 
fibres. Common salt serves to prevent this to some extent,, 
and it should be used freely in one-bath tanning. 

Good process of one-bath tanning. 

A method of using the one-bath process that results in 
tanning the grains without drawing the grain is carried out 
in the following manner : The sides, after bating and drench- 
ing, are pickled in salt, sulphuric acid and water. For two 
hundred pounds of stock weighed after washing, two and 
one-half quarts of acid and fifty pounds of salt in sufficient 
water to cover the sides are used. The sides should be 
stirred about in the pickle for six hours, although they may 
be left in longer without injury, and upon being removed 
from the liquor they should be well drained before they are- 
tanned. The drained pickled sides are then weighed. For 
each one hundred pounds of the same a solution is pre- 
pared of three pounds of sulphate of alumina boiled until 
dissolved in five gallons of water. 

Another solution consisting of three pounds of sal-soda,, 
dissolved by boiling in five gallons of water is prepared. 
The soda solution is poured slowly and with constant stir- 
ring into the alumina solution, and when both are com- 
bined tbey should be allowed to cool or enough cold water 



SIDE LEATHERS FOR SHOE PURPOSES. 385 

should be run in to reduce the temperature of the solution 
to 85° before the liquor is used. 

The drained pickled sides are put into a drum with ten 
pounds of salt and five gallons of water for each hundred 
pounds of pickled sides. In this salt and water the sides 
'are drummed for fifteen minutes, then the solution of sul- 
phate of alumina and sal-soda is poured into the drum and 
the sides drummed in the same for about one hour. Then 
the tanning liquor is added in portions of one gallon at a 
time at intervals of one-half hour, and the drumming con- 
tinued for three or four hours, or until the sides are tanned. 
Three gallons of tanning material are usually sufficient for 
each hundred pounds of stock in the drum, although it is 
always economy to use plenty of liquor, even more than is 
necessary in order that the leather may be thoroughly 
tanned. To finish the tanning from one pound to one and 
one-half pounds of salts of tartar should be dissolved, and 
added to the contents of the drum, after which the drum- 
ming should be continued for three quarters of an hour. 
The tanning should now be complete, but in case of any 
doubt in the mind of the tanner the sides may be run in 
the drum longer, and they may also be allowed to lie in the 
liquor some hours. 

When thoroughly tanned, the sides may be removed from 
the drum and thrown over horses so that they are smoothed 
out and allowed to press and drain for some hours ; then 
they should be washed for one-half hour in borax water — 
two pounds of borax used in sufficient water for every one 
hundred pounds of leather — and then in clean water for 
one hour, or until the leather is perfectly neutral and clean. 
Any good chrome process may be used in making chrome 
upper from cow-hides. The leather may be made by tan- 
ning the sides in vats with paddles, or with rockers, in the 
same manner that they are tanned in bark or extract 
liquors, by being started in a weak liquor two or three per 
cent., that is two or three gallons of tanning liquor added 
25 



386 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

to one hundred gallons of water — and by finishing up in a 
strong liquor, six or seven per cent. Heavy sides may be 
shaved after tanning and retanned if necessary. 

When the tanning, or the retanning is completed, the 
sides should be very thoroughly washed, first in borax 
water for thirty minutes and then in clear water for another 
half hour. When a two-bath or acid process has been used 
in tanning the sides require a more thorough washing than 
when a one-bath process has been used. After the washing 
in borax water — one pound of borax used for every one hun- 
dred pounds of leather — the sides should be washed for one 
hour in clear water, in order to remove all traces of acid which, 
when it is left in the leather produces undesirable effects. 

When the washing is completed the sides should be 
struck out by hand or on a machine, or they may be 
pressed, and the surplus water removed from them. In 
order that the leather may be of uniform substance and 
smooth and clean upon the flesh, it may require a shaving ; 
but whether sides require shaving or not depends upon 
their condition and must be decided accordingly. 

It is an advantage to the leather at this point to give it 
a treatment with Palmetto extract. This has very good 
effects upon the stock, not only helping to make firm, 
close-grained leather but also serving as a mordant for the 
dye and increasing the depth of the black. For one hun- 
dred pounds of chrome leather about one pint of the extract 
may be used, dissolved and mixed with ten gallons of water 
at a temperature of ninety degrees, and the leather milled 
in the solution for twenty minutes. 

The directions for flesh coloring, fat-liquoring and grain 
blacking, drying out and finishing given as applied to calf- 
skins, work equally well when applied to side leather. It is 
not necessary to repeat the descriptions of the processes here. 
The formula given for a fat-liquor to use upon heavy calfskins 
produces good results upon side leather. To color chrome 
sides fancy shades, the directions as given for calfskins may 
be followed, by changing the quantities of dye-stuffs used. 



CHAPTER XXIII. 

THE COLORING, FAT-LIQUORING AND FINISHING OF 
HEMLOCK, GAMBIER, PALMETTO, QUEBRACHO 
AND COMBINATION-TANNED SIDES INTO SHOE 
LEATHER. 

For the sake of convenience and in order to avoid 
repetitions, the above named classes of leather will be 
treated together, inasmuch as the methods of coloring and 
finishing described produce equally satisfactory results on 
each and all of the various tannages. 

When the tanniug, or the retanning, is completed, the 
sides may be washed to remove surplus liquor and then 
pressed for the same reason. Some tanners merely press 
the leather and do not wash it. After the pressing, the 
sides may be shaved if the} 7 require it and made of per- 
fectly uniform substance. Then they are fat-liquored. In 
some cases the leather is first drummed in oil in the follow- 
ing manner : A pin-mill drum is heated to a temperature 
of about 100 degrees with steam, and one gallon of oil used 
for eacfi one hundred and fifty pounds of leather, weighed 
after being drained and pressed. The leather is run in the 
oil for forty minutes, or until the oil is fully absorbed. 
Next the stock is taken from the drum and hung up and 
dried out. After drying the leather should be weighed and 
then moistened with warm water and then piled up for a 
number of hours to soften. Then it is put into the drum 
and run with just enough water to soften all parts alike, 
when it is ready for fat-liquoring. This is the method em- 
ployed by some tanners, while others fat-liquor their 
leather, immediately after it has been drained and pressed. 
As a fat-liquor any one of the following formulas produces 
good results : 

(387) 



388 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Fat-liquor formulas. 

1. Five pounds of potash soft soap, and one gallon of 
Moellon degras, boiled and made into an emulsion with 
one-half barrel of water and steam. This amount of fat- 
liquor is sufficient for four hundred pounds of leather. 

2. Twenty-five pounds of potash soft soap are boiled and 
stirred until thoroughly dissolved in twenty-five gallons of 
water. Then about fifty pounds of English sod oil and one 
and one-half gallons of neatsfoot oil are poured into the 
soap solution and thoroughly mixed together. A few 
pounds of degras may also be added. Enough cold water 
is next added to make a total of fifty gallons of fat-liquor. 
Twenty gallons of this fat-liquor are required by each one 
hundred pounds of dry leather. The quantity to be used,, 
however, depends upon the nature of the tannage. A 
smaller quantity will, in some instances, produce the de- 
sired softness, some tannages requiring less fat-liquor than 
others. 

3. Ten pounds of soap boiled in fifteen gallons of water, 
until dissolved. To the soap solution are added four gal- 
lons of neatsfoot oil, and ten pounds of degras, and the in- 
gredients are thoroughly mixed together. Enough water 
is then run in to make fifty gallons of fat-liquor. 

4. Twenty pounds potash soap and forty pounds English 
sod oil, boiled and saponified. About twelve gallons of 
this fat-liquor may be used for every hundred pounds 
of leather. 

The pin-mill drum should be heated with live steam to 
a temperature of one hundred and twenty degrees. If the 
leather has been dried out it should be uniformly moistened 
with warm water before it is fat-liquored. This, of course,. 
is not necessary when the leather is fat-liquored before it 
has been dried out. Any excess of moisture should be 
guarded against both in the drum and in the leather, for it 
retards the proper absorption of the fat-liquor. The fat- 
liquor should be added to the leather in portions of one or 



COLORING AND FINISHING INTO SHOE LEATHER. 389 

two gallons at a time through the hollow gudgeon of the 
-drum, and after all the fat-liquor is in, the leather should 
be drummed for forty minutes, or until all the fat-liquor 
has been absorbed. Upon being taken from the drum the 
leather should be washed in clear water, lukewarm, to free 
it from particles of leather fibres which occasionally spot 
the leather, and then left to drain well before it is dried 
out, thus letting the grease penetrate through every fibre. 
Then the leather is dried out. 

Coloring the flesh of side leathers. 

In most instances the leather is fat-liquored twice, the 
second application of fat-liquor being given after the 
leather has been colored. When the leather is dried out, 
after the first fat-liquoring, it is moistened and sammied, 
and then colored blue or purple or yellow upon the flesh as 
may be desired. The flesh coloring for yellow back may 
be done in the following manner : The leather is moistened 
uniformly with warm water, and placed in a pile for 
twenty-four hours to become soft. Then one-half pail of 
sumac is scalded for two hours in a closed vessel. To the 
prepared sumac are added four pails of water and one 
gallon of Lactracine. This quantity of liquor suffices for 
sixty medium sides. It is used at a temperature of 100° 
Fah., and the leather drummed therein for twenty -five 
minutes, when it is 'ready for the yellow dye. Various 
materials may be used to color the flesh yellow, Yellow S 
being a satisfactory article. One pound of the same is dis- 
solved in half barrel of water and applied to the leather at 
a temperature of 100 degrees. Then the leather may be 
dyed black upon the grain, oiled off and dried out. Blue 
backs are more popular at the present time than yellow 
backs. To obtain a deep blue color upon the flesh with 
nigrosine, eight ounces of the same are used for each dozen 
sides. The dye is boiled until it is dissolved, and the 
leather drummed therein for twenty minutes. Then the 



390 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

leather is grain blacked and dried out. A flesh coloring 
may also be prepared of logwood liquor, nigrosine black 
and methyl violet aniline. Logwood and sal-soda or borax 
also make a good liquor for the purpose. 

The methods of dyeing the grain black are fully 
described in the chapter on chrome upper leather. The 
formulas and directions given work equally well on vege- 
table tanned leathers. After dyeing the grain is washed 
off, the leather struck out, a light coat of oil applied evenly 
over the grain and the leather dried out. After drying it 
may be finished in any way desired. 

The following are also practical formulas for the making of 
fat-liquors 
Suitable to side leathers. Ten pounds of degras, two> 
gallons of sod oil, two gallons cod oil, three pails soft soap, 
two pounds of borax and three pails of water for each forty- 
five sides of leather. Also for each one hundred pounds of 
dry leather may be used, five pounds French degras, three 
pounds cod oil, three pounds neatsfoot oil, and two pounds 
paraffine oil. After fat-liquoring, the sides should be dried 
in a warm room and are then ready for coloring and finish- 
ing. If the leather is intended for dull or kangaroo finish 
it should be blacked before being set out ; if a bright glazed 
finish is to be applied the leather should be set out and 
dried before it is blacked. The setting out should be very 
thorough and hard. 

Effects of different oils and greases on leathers. 
Different effects are produced upon leather by the various 
oils and greases used in stuffing or fat-liquoring. Animal 
and fish oils have been used for a great many years, and 
they impart a full, mellow feel to the leather, as well as 
giving it strength and softness. Neatsfoot is the animal 
oil generally used, while of fish oils cod or sperm are 
largely employed. Another class of oils used upon leather 
are mineral oils. These make the leather soft and pliable,. 



COLORING AND FINISHING INTO SHOE LEATHER. 391 

but they are soon evaporated leaving the leather harsh and 
brittle. It is well known that the durability and texture 
of leather are largely determined by the class of oil or 
grease used upon it. Some oils make the leather soft so 
long as it is new, but the softness is not permanent, and as 
the leather ages it becomes dry and harsh. Animal and 
fish oils are liable to become rancid in the leather, thus 
causing the fibres to rot and destroying the strength of the 
leather. Sometimes the leather acquires a disagreeable 
odor from such oils ; and white grease spots and scum fre- 
quently appear upon the surface of the leather caused by 
the chemical changes taking place in the stock. 

The best oils to use are the good grades of animal and 
fish oils. The best quality only should be used, and al- 
though they do not penetrate so readily as mineral oils, 
they nourish the leather better, and by becoming thor- 
oughly incorporated with the fibres give lasting strength 
and softness to the leather. 

Chrome leather retains its softness as long as it lasts, not 
only because it is chrome tanned but because the oils and 
soaps used in lubricating it become thoroughly incorporated 
with it and because a good quality of these materials is 
generally used. Leather should be greased only with those 
greases that adhere strongly to the fibres. Glycerine im- 
parts no great softness to leather. Its chief use is to give 
to the grain a smooth, soft feel, which helps in the final 
finishing. 

PAT-LIQUORING WITH MULSINE. 

Mulsine is a compound for making fat-liquor. It needs 
to be mixed only with water when it is ready for use at 
once without the addition of soap, alkali or any other ma- 
terial. By its use the tanner is saved the trouble of buying 
soaps and oils, which do not always run uniform and of 
mixing the same. It contains no sticky or resinous matter, 
and is so compounded that no free oils or alkalies are car- 



392 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

ried into the leather, thus insuring freedom from sticky or 
oily grain, and spew upon the finished stock, provided no 
mineral acids remain in the leather after it is tanned. 
These results are not always obtained when saponified fats 
are used. The fats used in making many of the fat-liquors 
in common use by the ordinary process of saponification 
with soap, potash and soda are converted into soap in the 
leather by the excess of alkali, and this is detrimental to 
the fibre, and owing to the fact that this soap works out 
readily, the leather ultimately becomes dry and hard. 

Mulsine is antiseptic in its nature and will not deterioriate 
whether in solution or in the leather itself, while ordinary 
fat-liquors turn sour when allowed to stand in warm weather 
before using, thus proving the detrioriation of the ingredi- 
ents. Mulsine remains sweet at all times. It is thoroughly 
blended and aged, and therefore much more efficient than 
fat-liquor stock prepared immediately before using. Mul- 
sine leaves no stain or oil spots and permits the leather to 
bleach uniformly. The finished stock is bright in color, 
and the grain is soft, strong and fine. Mulsine is very use- 
ful in making patent and enamelled leather, making the 
same soft and full, yet firm and well nourished, thereby 
permitting it to be successfully buffed. The leather will 
enamel readily and the enamel will hold, and after baking 
will not show blisters or grease spots. In preparing a fat- 
liquor with Mulsine the material is dissolved in boiling 
water in the proportion of one gallon of the same to three 
gallons of water boiling hot, then cold water is added until 
the mixture is in the proportion of one gallon of Mulsine to 
four gallons. In other words when ready to use the fat- 
liquor should always be composed of one gallon of Mulsine 
and four gallons of water. The proportions should always 
be determined by actual measure. Seven and one-half 
pounds can be called one gallon, if measure is made by 
weight. 

After the leather has been split, retanned, pressed and 



COLORING AND FINISHING INTO SHOE LEATHER. 393 

shaved it should be uniformly sammied and then weighed 
to ascertain amount of fat-liquor to be used. The pin- 
wheel should be heated to 125 deg. F., and the leather put 
in with a small amount of water also heated to 125 degrees 
F., and milled until the moisture is evenly distributed and 
the leather pulled. The fat-liquor will then be rapidly and 
•evenly absorbed. An excess of moisture should be guarded 
against, either in the mill or in the leather itself, for it will 
prevent the proper absorption of the fat-liquor. 

The fat-liquor prepared as suggested should be used at a 
temperature of 125 deg., Fahr. The pin-wheel should be 
heated to the same temperature before the fat-liquor is put 
into it. The fat-liquor should be added through the gud- 
geon of the drum while the same is in motion. A running 
for thirty minutes will enable the leather to absorb all the 
fatty matter in the liquor, provided no mineral acids are 
left in the leather after tanning, and the fat-liquor and 
leather have been prepared and used according to these 
instructions. 

Upon hemlock and other vegetable tanned stock, and 
upon combination tanned side, kip and calf leather, imita- 
tion kangaroo, and upon dull and glazed boarded grains, 
for the first application of the fat-liquor thirteen gallons 
-are used for each one hundred pounds of stock. For Russia 
leathers eleven gallons of fat-liquor are used for each one 
hundred pounds of stock. 

After the leather has received the first application of fat- 
liquor it should be rinsed off in clean warm water at 
100° F., to free it from particles of leather fibre and flesh- 
ings, which containing oil would spot the leather while it 
was drying. Before the stock is hung up to dry it should 
oe placed on a horse for about four hours, which will allow 
it to drain and the fatty matter to assimilate with the 
tannin in the leather and penetrate while warm into the 
stock. This will avoid chilling the oils on the surface, 
which would occur without these precautions. After the 



394 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

stock has been dried it should be weighed again to de- 
termine the amount of fat-liquor to be used in the second 
application, and then put into a tub with water at a tem- 
perature of 110 degrees until thoroughly soft. Then it 
should be placed in a pile for twelve to fifteen hours to 
sammie. The quantity of fat-liquor used in the second 
application should be ten gallons for each one hundred 
pounds of stock, for imitation kangaroo and dull printed 
grains. These leathers are generally yellow-backed before 
the second application of fat-liquor. 

For blue-back, glazed and boarded black grains seven 
and one-half gallons of fat-liquor should be used for each 
hundred pounds of leather. These leathers are usually 
blue-blacked before the second application of fat-liquor,, 
and are blacked upon the grain afterwards. 

For Russia leather four gallons of fat-liquor should be 
used for each one hundred pounds of stock. Black Russia 
is usually blue-backed, and colored Russia leather is usually 
bleached, mordanted and colored before the second applica- 
tion of fat-liquor. Upon russett, bag and strap leather ten 
gallons of fat-liquor are used upon each one hundred 
pounds of stock. Patent, enamelled, and tipping leather 
are given fourteen gallons of fat-liquor for each one hun- 
dred pounds of stock. 

Fat-liquoring chrome leather ivith mulsine. 

When it is intended to be used upon chrome leather, the- 
fat-liquor should consist of one gallon of Mulsine in seven 
gallons of water. It should be at a temperature of 125 
degrees when used. For all shoe leathers excepting sheep- 
skins eight gallons of fat-liquor are used for each hun- 
dred pounds of stock, weighed directly after being shaved. 
For sheepskin shoe leather two gallons of fat-liquor are 
used upon each hundred pounds of leather ; for sheep- 
skin glove leather one gallon upon each dozen skins,, 
averaging twenty pounds per dozen before being tanned- 



COLORING AND FINISHING INTO SHOE LEATHER. 395 

For calfskins, tips and sides for glove leather ten gallons of 
fat-liquor are used for each one hundred pounds of stock, 
tanning weight. 

CHROME-TANNED SIDE GLOVE LEATHER. 

For either glove or shoe leather, the sides should be well 
limed and bated thoroughly so as to get the desired softness 
and pliability. After coming from the bating process, 
and having been washed off in warm water, the sides 
should be pickled in a solution of salt, sulphuric acid and 
water. About two and one-half quarts of acid and fifty 
pounds of salt in sufficient water to cover the stock will 
pickle fifty sides of medium size. In this pickle the sides 
should be stirred about for some eight or ten hours, and 
then allowed to drain well before they are tanned. The 
sides after pickling and draining should be weighed ; and 
for each one hundred pounds of sides a solution is pre- 
pared in the following manner : Three pounds of sulphate 
of alumina are dissolved by boiling in five gallons of 
water. Also in another vessel are dissolved by boiling 
in five gallons of water, three pounds of sal-soda. The 
solution of sal-soda is poured slowly and with constant 
stirring into the sulphate of alumina solution. The two 
solutions combined form a milky white liquor, which 
should not be used until it has become cool, or enough 
water should be added to it to reduce the temperature to 
about eighty -five degrees. 

The pickled sides are thrown into a pin-mill drum with 
a solution of salt, ten pounds of salt dissolved in five 
gallons of water for each one hundred pounds of pickled 
stock. In this solution the sides are milled for about 
fifteen minutes, or until they are thoroughly wet through 
and opened out. Then the solution of alumina and sal- 
soda is added, preferably a portion at a time until it is all 
in, after which the drumming should be continued for one- 
hour. Then for each one hundred pounds of stock in the 



396 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

■drum, one gallon of one-bath tanning liquor (Tanolin) is 
added, and at the end of one-half hour another gallon,- and 
at the end of one hour another gallon is added, making in 
all three gallons of tanning liquor for each one hundred 
pounds of sides in the drum. 

The drumming in the tanning liquor usually consumes 
about four hours, although this depends upon the thickness 
of the stock. After the sides are well struck with the tan- 
ning liquor, in about one gallon of water should be dis- 
solved one pound Salts of Tartar for each one hundred 
pounds of leather. This is added to the contents of the 
•drum and the drumming continued for one-half hour, at 
the end of which time the sides will be found to be tanned. 
If any doubt exists as to the stock being thoroughly tanned, 
it may be run in the drum an hour or two longer, and the 
leather may be allowed to rest in the liquor over night. 
Then the leather may be removed from the drum, and left 
in piles to press and drain for about twenty-four hours. 
After pressing and draining this length of time the leather 
requires to be thoroughly washed. This is done by drum- 
ming it in a solution of borax, using two pounds of borax 
mixed in solution with sufficient water, for about thirty min- 
utes, and then it is washed in a washing drum so arranged 
that the water may run on and off the leather continuously. 
The washing process should consume about one hour, and 
the leather should be perfectly neutral to the taste. It is 
then ready for striking out or pressing, coloring, fat-liquor- 
ing and finishing. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 

The methods used in working horsehides and coltskins 
through the processes of the beamhouse are not materially 
different from those employed upon other classes of hides 
and skins. Horsehides and coltskins are soaked, softened, 
unhaired, limed, bated and washed in the usual manner. 
Nevertheless a few suggestions especially applicable to this 
class of stock will not be out of place here. Green salted 
hides and skins require but a short soaking in warm 
weather, provided the water is fresh and clean and the 
stock is not excessively salty or dirty. A soaking for 
eighteen to twenty-four hours is usually sufficient, although 
no great harm comes to stock when it is soaked longer. 
Time is money to the tanner, and hence it behooves him to 
work his stock through as rapidly as possible. Dry colt- 
skins, such as come from Russia, require a thorough soften- 
ing. To hasten the softening sulphide of sodium may be 
added to the water in which the skins are soaked, or salt 
water may be used instead of the sulphide soak. When 
sulphide of sodium is used, about one-fourth of an ounce is 
sufficient for each skin. The material should be dissolved 
and added to the water before the skins are put in. The 
results of its use are that the skins become thoroughly soft, 
and freshened up in grain and fibre in a much shorter time 
than when it is not used. Another good way to soften the 
dry skins is by the use of common salt. The quantity of 
salt required is not fixed. More or less may be used, but 
only enough to give the water a salty taste, and the water 
should be clean and fresh at the start. After the skins 
have become soft in the brine, they should be washed or 

(397) 



•398 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

soaked in clean water before being passed into the unhair- 
ing process. By the use of either of these methods soft 
clean skins are obtained in a comparatively short time. 
Old stale soaks are often used by tanners, but their use 
cannot be recommended. Much brighter, clearer grained 
and softer skins are obtained when clean fresh soaks are 
used. 

In using sulphide of sodium upon horsehides for the 
purpose of removing the hair, a good way to use it is to 
paint the hides with two liquors of different strengths. 
Upon the fore part a liquor of twenty degrees Baume may 
be used, and a twenty-four degree liquor on the shell. By 
using the sulphide of sodium in this way the shell is soft- 
ened and the time of liming is shortened. A mixture of 
lime and sulphide of sodium may be used, or a sul- 
phide liquor alone. In a few hours the hair will be 
loosened, but it is best not to remove it until the next day, 
as by that time it will come off cleaner and more readily. 
A further liming for from four to six days in weak clean 
limes is all that is required for stock treated in this way for 
shoe leather, while for glove and mitten material a longer 
liming is usually required in order to get the stock suffi- 
ciently soft and elastic. Sulphide of sodium may also be 
mixed with the lime in vats and the stock treated in the 
manner that has already been described under other head- 
ings. Red arsenic may be also used in the same manner 
as upon calfskins, and the grain made soft and fine by its 
use. For glove leather a longer time is allowed in the 
limes than for shoe leather. 

The use of lactic acid 

While there are various methods of bating and drench- 
ing hides and skins in common use, no article is better than 
lactic acid for the purpose of removing the lime and pre- 
paring the skins for tanning. Upon horsehides and colt- 
skins, for both glove and shoe leather, it is used in the fol- 



HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 399 

lowing manner : For every one hundred gallons of warm 
water in the paddle-wheel use one gallon of lactic acid. 
Sometimes three quarts will do the work. After the stock 
comes from the liming process and has been fleshed, it 
should be washed in warm water, and then drenched in the 
acid liquor prepared as above. The time consumed by the 
process varies from one to three hours. The temperature 
of the drench should be about ninety degrees. The lime 
can be thoroughly neutralized in one bath, and when the 
hides or skins are taken out they may be worked on the 
beam or slated, and then rinsed off in warm water and 
pickled or tanned. For some purposes, and for some pro- 
cesses of tanning it is necessary to pickle the stock in a 
liquor composed of salt, sulphuric acid and water, as will 
be explained later on. For alum tawed leather, also some 
processes of chrome tanning, pickling is not necessary. 
However for the alum process the hides or skins are consid- 
erably bleached and whitened by the pickling process but 
the acid should be removed from the stock before it is 
tawed. 

Wlvip and baseball cover leather 
Whip leather, and leather for baseball covers and similar 
purposes may be made by the following processes : After 
the stock has been bated or drenched and is ready for tan- 
ning, it is treated to a solution of sulphate of alumina and 
salt, made up of three pounds of the former and eight 
pounds of the latter dissolved in five gallons of water for 
each one hundred pounds of skins. If the stock has been 
pickled to preserve and bleach it, the acid pickle should be 
removed by a drench in sour bran and salt. The stock is 
drummed in the sulphate of alumina and salt solution for 
thirty minutes. Then for every hundred pounds of stock 
ten pounds of hyposulphite of soda are dissolved in five 
gallons of water and added to the contents of the drum. In 
this liquor the stock is drummed for another thirty min- 
utes, at the end of which time the tawing will be made 



400 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

permanent. This would complete the process were it not 
that the solution of hyposulphite of soda makes the stock 
thin. To overcome this, another solution of sulphate of 
alumina and salt is added to the contents of the drum. 
This may consist of two pounds of sulphate of alumina and 
six pounds of salt for every one hundred pounds of stock. 
A further drumming in the combined liquors for thirty 
minutes completes the process, which results in well-tawed 
leather of smooth fine grain, tough and to a great extent 
insoluble. Leather made in this way resembles chrome 
leather and may be finished in the same manner as chrome- 
leather, or by any method usually employed on alum 
leather. 

Tough leather of light color 

Very tough leather of a light color is made by combin- 
ing an alum and a chrome process. In the beginning the 
stock is drummed for thirty minutes in a solution of sul- 
phate of alumina and salt, composed of three pounds of the- 
former and eight pounds of the latter, dissolved in eight or 
ten gallons of water. At the end of thirty minutes the 
chrome liquor is added to the stock. Usually three gallons 
of liquor are required by each one hundred pounds of stock. 
This should be divided into three portions and mixed with 
an equal volume of water. The portions of one-third each 
are given to the skins at intervals of one-half hour, and the 
leather drummed in the combined alum and chrome liquor 
for three hours or until it is thoroughly tanned, after which 
it should lie in the liquor for twenty-four hours, then be- 
thoroughly washed for at least thirty minutes, fat-liquored 
and dried out without coloring. The leather dries out 
nearly white. Good leather can also be made by taking 
the stock from the drum, after the drumming in alumina 
and salt and drying it out. After drying it may be moist- 
ened back and given the chrome liquor. In this process 
the benefit of the alumina treatment is obtained as well as- 



HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 401 

the chrome, and the leather possesses the good qualities of 
both classes of leather. 

Very soft and tough leather may be made by the use of a form 
of the old calf-kid process. 

In this method the stock is treated to a solution of three 
pounds of sulphate of alumina, eight pounds of salt, five 
pounds of flour, five quarts of egg-yolk and three quarts of 
neatsfoot oil for each one hundred pounds of stock. The 
skins and the liquor should be warm when put into the 
drum, and the stock should be milled in the solution for 
at least one hour, after which it may lie for a day or two in 
a cold alum solution, and then be dried out in a warm room. 
The leather is then dampened and staked by hand or 
machine. For first-class leather the stock may be laid 
away for several weeks after the tawing is completed in 
order that it may retain all the tawing materials, and re- 
sult in soft plump leather. 

Horsehide shoe leather. 

For shoe leather from horsehides and coltskins the gam- 
bier tannage is well adapted. Quebracho is also used, also 
Palmetto extract and the stock is also tanned in combina- 
tions of two or more tannages. 

Russia coltskins may be tanned in the same manner as 
calfskins intended for Russia calf, either black or colored. 
For this gambier is used, either alone or in conjunction 
with alum and salt, forming a kind of dongola process. 
When the tanning is done in one liquor the action of the 
paddles keeps the skins in motion and thus secures an even 
tannage. The alum and salt may be used with the gam- 
bier or the process may be used as a two-bath process, the 
skins being first given the alum and salt, and then the 
gambier. The following instructions regarding the use of 
Palmetto extract may be of interest. After the hides or 
skins are ready for tanning they should be kept in a cold 
26 



402 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

palmetto liquor of a strength of four degrees barkometer, 
until well colored in the paddle-wheel. Then they are run 
in the paddle-wheel for one and one-half hours and then 
the leather is put into drums with the extract at thirty de- 
grees, heated to a temperature of seventy or eighty degrees, 
and in six hours the leather is tanned. Upon coming from 
the tanning liquor the leather should be washed in luke- 
warm water. It will be found to be soft and smooth 
grained and with firm well-filled flanks. The water in 
which the leather is washed contains much coloring matter 
and may be used as a coloring liquor in the paddle-wheel. 
Good leather is also made by a combination of a chrome and 
vegetable process. When this is done the hides or skins 
are started in a chrome process and then finished up in 
gambier or some similar tannage. When a one-bath 
chrome process is used the stock is drummed or paddled 
until it is well struck with the tanning liquor, then it is 
washed and placed in the vegetable liquor. This is a good 
method to use in tanning Russia coltskins. 

When the tannage is completed the stock is removed 
from the liquor and pressed to remove surplus liquor, and 
then left in piles for a number of hours. To get the desired 
softness and pliability the following fat-liquor produces 
good results. Twenty-five pounds of potash soap are boiled 
until thoroughly dissolved. Then about fifty pounds of 
English sod oil and one and one-half gallons of neatsfoot 
oil are poured into the soap solution and the two ingredi- 
ents are completely mixed together. Enough water is next 
added to make fifty gallons of fat-liquor. Before this fat- 
liquor is used the leather should be drummed in oil, about 
one gallon of oil being used upon every hundred pounds of 
leather weighed after pressing. After drumming in the oil 
the leather is hung up and dried out, and then moistened 
down for fat-liquoring. The moistening of the leather 
must be uniform so that it will be evenly moist and soft. 
A suitable pin-mill drum should be heated to about one 



HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 



403 



hundred and twenty degrees, the leather thrown in and 
run a few minutes until it is warmed up. Then the fat- 
liquor is added and the leather drummed for at least thirty 
minutes in the fat-liquor until the grease is all taken up, 
then the leather should be hung up and dried again. 
For dovgola, combination, and gambler tanned Russia coltskins 
and horsehide leather for shoe purposes the flesh may 
be colored yellow in the foltowing manner : 
The leather, dried after fat-liquoring is moistened with warm 
water and left in piles until it is uniformly soft and moist. 
One-half pail of sumac is scalded for two hours in a closed 
vessel. To this are added four pails of water and one gal- 
lon of Lactracine. This quantity of liquor is sufficient for 
one hundred and fifty colt-skins. The liquor is used at a 
temperature of one hundred degrees, and the leather 
drummed in the liquor for thirty minutes. Then the 
leather should be thrown back upon the sides of the drum 
and the color solution added. This may consist of one 
pound of Yellow S, dissolved and boiled in one-half barrel 
of water. Three pailfuls of this liquor are required by 
each one hundred pounds of dry leather. A drumming 
for ten minutes is sufficient to allow the leather to absorb 
the dye, after which the grain is blacked, oiled and the 
stock dried out. 

When a blue flesh is wanted 
The leather is drummed in a solution of logwood, blue 
aniline and sal-soda for twenty minutes, then removed from 
the drum and the grain blacked by hand or machine. 
After grain blacking, the leather is well struck out, oiled 
lightly and dried out. Then it is moistened back, staked, 
dried and staked again, and is then ready for the final 
finish which may be either dull or bright. For the dull 
finish the leather is seasoned with a dull finish, and while 
in the moist condition it is ironed. For a bright glazed 
finish season the leather with the following solution : One- 



404 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

half pint blue stone, one-eighth ounce iron, one-half pint 
logwood, one pint blood, one-half pint nigrosine. This 
glazing liquor is applied evenly to the grain of the leather 
and well rubbed in, after which it is dried and glazed. 
Two or three coats of the seasoning are generally required. 
A seasoning liquor for a glazed finish may also be made- 
of these ingredients : Five gallons of logwood are blacked 
with five ounces of copperas. Or in place of such a liquor 
a solution of black nigrosine may be used. Then add one- 
and one-half pints of blood, five ounces of glycerine and 
eight ounces of ammonia. After the first coat of seasoning 
has been applied, the leather dried and glazed, a liquor 
composed of lactic acid, water and bichromate of potash,, 
may be applied, and well rubbed in. This removes grease 
and helps to deepen the black. In place of lactic acid and 
bichromate of potash, a dilute solution of vinegar and bi- 
chromate of potash may be used. Mix one gallon strong 
vinegar, one ounce of bichromate of potash and five gal- 
lons of water. Apply between the first and second glazing; 
to clear the grain and deepen the color. 

Horsehides intended for glove leather 
Should be thoroughly limed, and bated low at the begin- 
ning in order to get the desired softness in the stock. Soft- 
tough leather which does not tear readily, and which re- 
sembles oil tanned stock is made by applying the Napa 
tannage of oil and soap to horsehides. The hides may be- 
pickled before tanning, as this bleaches them. Upon com- 
ing from the beam-house, the hides are immersed in a solu- 
tion composed of the following ingredients, for each one hun- 
dred pounds of stock : Ten pounds of, salt, fifteen pounds of 
potash in one hundred and 1 fifty gallons of water. The 
skins remain in this liquor in a vat for three hours, or they 
may be drummed in a drum for something less than one 
hour, after which they are wrung out dry and treated to a 
solution of oil and soap — six pounds of hard soap, and two 



HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 405 

gallons of neatsfoot oil in one hundred and fifty gallons of 
water. The stock should be left in this solution, which 
should be thoroughly emulsified before it is used, until it is 
wet through, and then hung up and dried out. The pro- 
cess may be repeated two or three times until the leather is 
sufficiently soft and well tawed. A washing in warm 
water is necessary after the last drying out to remove sur- 
plus of tawing materials, after which the leather may be 
smoked, colored, or dried out white and worked until it is 
soft enough for use. 

Another process. 
A process slightly different from the above consists of a 
first liquor of two pounds of caustic soda, and one pound 
of borax in sufficient water to cover the hides. This solu- 
tion and the stock are placed in the drum and milled for 
thirty minutes to one hour. The hides are then removed 
from the drum, hung up and dried out. They are next 
immersed or drummed in a solution^ composed of five 
pounds of hard soap, one gallon of straits or neatsfoot oil, 
and one-half pound caustic soda. This liquor should thor- 
oughly impregnate the stock before it is dried out ; and after 
drying the process may be repeated as often as is considered 
necessary. After the stock has been treated in this manner 
and become leather it may be put into a very weak solution 
-of soap, oil and caustic soda thoroughly mixed with water, 
in order to soften it, and in this moist condition it may be 
smoked, colored or left without coloring or smoking and 
dried out white. 

When the hides are not treated with acid, the full strength 
of the fibres is retained and the leather is consequently 
very tough and strong, and free from any tendency to crack 
or break. 

Another process for glove and mitten leather. 

Glove and mitten leather may also be made from a solu- 
tion or tanning mixture made up of seven pounds of alum 



406 . PRACTICAL TANNING. 

or of sulphate of alumina, three pounds of glauber salt,, 
four pounds of rock salt, ten gallons of water, eight pounds 
of ground sumac, one pound of ground nutgalls, and four 
ounces of sulphuric acid. In preparing the mixture, the 
alum, salt and glauber salt are reduced to a powder and 
boiled in the water until they are all dissolved. The sumac 
and nutgalls are also boiled briskly for thirty minutes, and 
then strained over the other liquor and mixed with it, and 
the sulphuric acid is next added. The liquor is used at 
blood heat, and the stock treated therein for a period of 
twenty-four to thirty-six hours, being stirred about for one 
hour, and then allowed to rest in the liquor for the re- 
mainder of the time, with occasional stirring. The process 
can also be applied in drums, the stock being drummed for 
two hours and then allowed to rest in the liquor for a num- 
ber of hours. Upon coming from the liquor the leather 
should be given a thorough striking out with a glass slicker. 
This is followed by a moderately heavy coat of lard or 
neatsfoot oil applied to both sides, then the stock is hung in 
a warm room and dried out, which completes the process. 
The leather is, to quite a degree, impervious to moisture. 
Before the oil is applied, it should be warmed, and the 
water should be well struck out of the skins. The leather 
should be worked as it dries and the drying and working 
continued until the stock is thoroughly dry and soft. 

Horsehides may be made into excellent glove mate- 
rial by the use of chrome methods of tanning. The one- 
bath method is very simple to use and results in making 
leather in every way as good as two-bath tanned stock. 
After bating or drenching, the hides may be pickled in a 
solution of salt, sulphuric acid and water, two and one-half 
quarts of acid, and fifty pounds of salt, making a liquor of 
sufficient strength when mixed with one hundred gallons 
of water, to pickle two to three hundred pounds of stock. 
The pickling process consumes about six hours, and at the 
end of this time the stock may be removed from the liquor 



HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 407 

and well drained before it is tanned. For each one hun- 
dred pounds of stock, weighed after draining, prepare a 
solution of one pound of glauber salt in eight gallons of 
warm water (85 degrees). Throw this solution into, the 
drum with the pickled stock and mill the same for fifteen 
minutes. The stock is next thrown up on each side of the 
drum, the plug pulled out and the glauber salt solution 
drained off. Then replace the plug and threw into the 
drum ten pounds of common salt, and eight gallons of 
water for each hundred pounds of stock and mill for five 
minutes. Then add to the contents of the drum, one gal- 
lon of the tanning liquor (Tanolin) for each hundred pounds 
of stock and mill for one-half hour, then add another gal- 
lon tanning liquor and mill for one hour, and finally add 
another gallon of the tanning liquor for each hundred 
pounds of stock and continue the drumming for two or 
three hours, or until the stock is well struck with the tan- 
ning material, making three gallons of tanning liquor used 
for each hundred pounds of leather. Dissolve in a little 
Avater one-half pound bicarbonate of soda for each hundred 
pounds of stock, add to the contents of the drum and run 
the drum for three-quarters of an hour. If the liquor in 
the drum still shows a deep green color add another one- 
half pound of soda and continue the drumming for one- 
half hour longer. The tanning should now be completed, 
but if any doubt exists the stock may be drummed for a 
longer time, or it may be allowed to rest in the liquor over 
night. When thoroughly tanned the skins may be re- 
moved and allowed to press and drain for twenty-four hours. 
After pressing and draining the required length of time 
the leather is thrown into a drum with a solution of borax 
or bicarbonate of soda, using two pounds of borax for each 
hundred pounds of leather and milled in this solution for 
one-half hour. On removing the leather from the borax 
water it should be washed in clear water. It is not neces- 
sary to wash it for a great length of time as is required 



408 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

when sulphate of alumina, alum or hyposulphite has been 
used in tanning. The leather, after washing is ready for 
shaving, coloring and fat-liquoring. 

The leather can also be made by treating the stock as it 
comes from the bating and drenching and without pickling 
it, treating it with a solution of sulphate of alumina and 
salt, using three pounds of the former and eight pounds of 
the latter in six gallons of warm water for every one hun- 
dred pounds of leather. After drumming the stock in this 
solution there should be added at intervals of one-half hour, 
and in quantities of one gallon at a time, three gallons of 
concentrated one-bath liquor. After the liquor is all in, 
the leather should be drummed for three hours, at the end 
of which time it will be completely tanned. It should then 
be washed for at least thirty minutes and will then be ready 
for coloring and finishing. 

Leather tanned in either of these ways may be readily 
colored any shade. The quality of the material is some- 
what improved by slightly retanning it with either sumac 
or palmetto extract. This also prepares it for coloring, and 
makes the grain tough and fine and yet soft. The same 
fat-liquors may be used upon glove leather as upon shoe 
material, more being usually given to the former than to 
the latter, in order to make it soft. A coat of oil applied 
to the grain before the leather is dried out, toughens it, 
makes it soft, and gives it a smooth silky feel. Neatsfoot 
oil is generally used. 

Horsehides tanned in oil. 

Horsehides tanned in oil make exceedingly soft and dur- 
able leather, very useful in making gloves and mittens. 
When they are intended for any process of oil tanning they 
should be very thoroughly limed and bated and made per- 
fectly clean and neutral. One method of oil tanning may 
be carried out in the following manner : After bating and 
washing, the hides should be pressed or slightly dried so as 



HORSEHIDES AND COLTSKINS. 409 

to remove all excess>of water and still leave them moist. 
They may then be given a thorough beating by means of 
an apparatus or machinery especially designed for the pur- 
pose in order to soften them, after which they are sprinkled 
with cod oil and are again beaten in order to force the oil 
into the leather. The highest grade of Newfoundland cod oil 
is considered the best for the purpose. The process of oiling 
and beating the leather is repeated two or three times or 
until the hides have assumed a mustard color, and have 
lost their original odor. After the oiling and beating are 
completed the leather is made to undergo a process of heat- 
ing. By this process the oxidation of the oil which was 
begun during the previous process is completed by the fer- 
mentation that takes place. The heat is generated sponta- 
neously and the piles of leather must be closely watched 
and frequently handled and turned over. The highest tem- 
perature allowable is 140° Fah., a higher temperature than 
this seriously damages the leather. All organic matter is 
destroyed by the heat. Unless sufficient heat is generated 
to kill the organic matter the hides will rot, and when there 
is too much heat present they become dissolved. 

When the fermentation ceases and the leather is no longer 
susceptible of heating it is treated in a manner calculated 
to remove any excess of oil. This is done by washing it in 
hot water and then subjecting it to great pressure by means 
of a hydraulic press. A great deal of grease is squeezed 
out in this way. The oil may also be removed by washing 
the leather in a solution of soda ash which causes the grease 
to saponify. The saponified oil removed by pressure is 
neutralized with sulphuric acid and becomes the oil known 
as sod oil. A certain proportion of the oil must of course 
be left in the leather so as to give it softness. The finishing 
process consists of drying out the skins, and working the 
leather soft and smooth. 



410 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

Oil tanning with Turkey-red oil. 

In some instances the leather is hung up in a warm 
closed room, instead of being placed in piles to ferment. 
A species of oil tanned leather may be made by treating 
the prepared hides or sides to a solution of the soluble 
Turkey-red oils or alizarine oils, either in a drum or a vat. 
When vats or tubs are used the sides are pressed after bat- 
ing and washing and soaked in a twenty-five per cent, more 
or less solution of the oil, used at a temperature of 90 
degrees. The oil can also be applied in a drum. After the 
treatment with oil, the hides are dried and placed in a heap 
for some time in a moderately warm room and covered up. 
They are then dried slowly in the open air, after which 
they are lightly washed and again treated with the oil in 
the same manner as at first. They are then placed in 
piles and allowed to heat, then dried out again and then 
washed in a weak solution of borax or other alkali. By 
drying and working the leather is made very soft and 
elastic. The results may be changed by greater or less con- 
centration of the oil solution, by higher temperatures in 
drying, and by a greater number of applications of the oil. 
The leather may also be made by a combination of the oil 
with the salts of alumina. The preferred method of doing 
this is to soak the prepared sides in a solution containing' 
preferably fifteen per cent, of the soluble oil, and then dry- 
ing them out. This operation may be repeated, and then 
the ordinary method of tanning with alumina salts pro- 
ceeded with in the usual way. 

In any process of alum tanning in which egg yolk is 
used, Turkey-red oil may be used in place of the egg yolk 
with very beneficial results. 

The removal of the grain, or the frizzing of the same is 
usually done on machines, after the liming piocess is com- 
pleted. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

HARNESS, LINE, STRAP, BELT, BAG, CASE, LACE AND 
RUSSET LEATHERS. 

In this chapter a few suggestions will be given, which,, 
although they are applicable to almost any kind of leather^ 
have a direct bearing upon the classes of stock mentioned 
above. 

The methods of preparing hides for tanning, the processes 
of tanning, and the methods of finishing the tanned leather, 
vary with every manufacturer. In a general way, however, 
the following method of preparing hides is a practical one 
and produces good results : The hides are soaked for at 
least two days, and three days soaking is sometimes re- 
quired, the water being changed at least twice during the 
process. After fleshing and splitting the hides into sides, 
they are passed into the liming process. The lime is 
strengthened up with sulphide of sodium. For three 
thousand pounds of raw hide two hundred pounds of lime 
and twenty pounds of sulphide of sodium make a good fresh 
lime. For strengthening up this lime, seventy-five pounds 
of lime and ten pounds of sulphide of sodium may be used. 
In about five days the sides are ready for unhairing, and 
then fine-haired. The hides are then bated and washed 
and are ready for tanning. 

Quebracho and hemlock. 
For a safe, efficient and clean bate lactic acid is recom- 
mended. It readily dissolves the lime in the hides without 
injury to the color or quality of the leather, and b} r open- 
ing the pores of the hides makes them receptive to the tan- 
ning liquors. It is also very useful as a plumping agent. 
In the making of the classes of leather mentioned above 

(411) 



412 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

no better process can be used than a combination of que- 
bracho and hemlock extracts. The hides, when they are 
ready for tanning are subjected to a liquor made up of 
about two-thirds quebracho and one-third hemlock. This 
combination can be used for tanning leather of almost any 
description. The time of tanning is reduced greatly, from 
the time required when bark liquors and lay-aways are 
used. The color of the leather is very fair and uniform, 
and no bleaching is required. The leather is well filled 
and yet soft and mellow. Quebracho extract liquors have 
some peculiar qualities, one of which is that they never 
turn sour, but always remain sweet. Leather made with 
quebracho alone is very pliable and tough rather than hard 
and firm. Hemlock supplements quebracho with excellent 
results. The color of quebracho tanned leather is an oak 
shade, inclining towards pink. The leather should never 
be dried in the sun, as this causes the color to become red. 
Quebracho may be used in combination with almost any 
tannage. A pure quebracho liquor, however, lacks in 
plumping and filling qualities, and for this reason it is 
advantageous to first plump the hides before tanning them. 
The hides must be free from all lime before they are tanned 
in quebracho, since quebracho owing to its sweetness does 
not act upon the lime as bark liquors do, and this causes 
bad grain and color. 

In testing the liquors for tanning strength, 

The barkometer underrates the strength as compared with 
ordinary bark liquors. A pure quebracho liquor made up 
of nothing but quebracho extract and water of 20° barko- 
meter, is fully as strong as a sweet bark liquor of 30° 
barkometer. This is because quebracho contains much less 
material that forces up a barkometer than does bark, and 
this fact and the variations must be taken into consider- 
ation or else a tanner will get the liquor too strong and 
burn the fibres of the leather. 



HARNESS, LACE AND RUSSET' \ LEATHERS. 413 

Leather tanned with hemlock liquors 
Is of a harsh nature, and does not carry black well. To 
tone down the harshness of the leather and to give it a 
softer, mellower feel, nothing is better tkfcn gambier. After 
splitting, the sides are milled in gambier in the following 
manner : Two hundred and fifty pounds of gambier are 
boiled in eighty gallons of water until dissolved. After 
skimming or straining, the liquor is ready for use. Ten 
gallons of the gambier liquor are put into a drum with 
thirty sides of average size, and two gallons of dry sumac 
are added, and sufficient water to make the leather wet 
without dripping. A milling in the liquor for thirty min- 
utes completes the process ; and better results are obtained 
in this way than if the hides are immersed for several days 
in a pit containing a strong liquor. Oak extract will an- 
swer the same purpose, and also palmetto extract. Hem- 
lock tanned leather treated with either gambier, oak or 
palmetto extract as above suggested never grows rusty with 
age. The scouring, stuffing and finishing are then carried 
out in the usual way. 

Palmetto twined leather 
Is soft, tough, well filled and of good color. The tanning 
of hides with palmetto extract may be carried out in the 
following manner : The tanning is begun in liquor 12° 
barkometer ; the sides being nailed on sticks and suspended 
therein for about six days, during which time the strength 
is increased to 20° barkometer. The leather is then taken 
off the sticks and put into palmetto liquor 30° Baume. 
In about six days with occasional handling the leather is 
tanned through. The leather is then pressed, shaved and 
split, after which it is put into weak palmetto liquor 12°, 
and then wheeled for a number of hours in 30° Be', liquor 
until thoroughly tanned. The leather is now washed in 
lukewarm water and pressed, and fat-liquored. A good 
fat-liquor is made of five pounds of soap, and one gallon 



414 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and one pint of Moellon degras, boiled together and used 
at a temperature of 120 degrees. The quantities of soap 
and degras mentioned are enough for four hundred and 
forty pounds of leather. After fat-liquoring the leather is 
dried out, and then sorted according to the kind of finish 
to be applied. Harness and belt leather are stuffed after 
they are dried from fat-liquor with stearine at a temperature 
of 140° F. 

Palmetto extract is useful as a retannage upon almost any 
kind of tanned leather, bringing it into condition to stand 
heafc better, to carry more grease and thus become more 
waterproof and tougher. 

LACE LEATHPJR 

Leather remarkable for its great softness and strength 
and therefore useful as lace leather is made in the following 
manner : The hides are soaked, limed and unhaired in the 
usual manner, sulphide of sodium being mixed with the 
lime. After liming and unhairing the hides are bated and 
washed in the same manner as for other soft, pliable 
leathers. The tanning may be commenced in an old 
weak bark, oak or gambier liquor, the hides being left 
in it only long enough to become uniformly colored. The 
toughness of the leather is somewhat increased by supple- 
menting a gambier tanning with alum and salt, coloring 
the hides well with gambier and then giving them the 
alum and salt. Upon coming from the tanning liquors the 
leather is dried. It may also be further tanned with oil 
and grease without being dried. Different processes of 
greasing the leather are used. A good stuffing mixture may 
consist of oil, flour, grease and salt. These are drummed 
into the leather by means of a pin mill drum, after 
which the leather is hung up and dried out. Degras com- 
bined with oils and fats imparts great softness to the stock. 
After the leather becomes dried out the grain may be buffed 
off". It may also be removed before the hides are tanned. 
Setting out and working the leather complete the process. 



HARNESS, LACE AND RUSSET LEATHERS. 415 

Hides intended for lace leather 
May also be tanned by the following composition : For 
every one-hundred pounds of hides— water, fifty gallons ; 
alum, ten pounds ; sal-soda, two and one-half pounds ; com- 
mon salt, three pounds; bran, from two to three pounds. 
These ingredients are made into a liquor, and the hides 
treated with the same, either in a vat or a drum ; after 
which they are dried out. They are then split upon the 
splitting machine, and a mixture of lard oil and tallow 
applied, after which they are again dried out. The hides 
are then moistened and shaved, and the entire grain is 
removed in order to prevent cracking or breaking. A 
mixture of lard oil, one and one-half pounds ; tallow, one- 
half pound ; flour, two ounces for every ten pounds of hide, 
is then applied and well rubbed in; the leather dried 
again, and then worked and stretched. 

Another tanning composition for lace and whip leather 
Consists of twenty-five gallons of warm water ; two pounds 
of alum ; ten pounds of salt ; one pound of sulphuric acid ; 
two pounds of bran, and two ounces of dissolved sulphur. 
The hides are left in this solution for thirty minutes, and 
then one ounce of vitriol, four pounds of salt, two ounces of 
alum, are dissolved and mixed into the liquor. In this 
combined liquor the hides are tanned, and are then hung 
up and dried out. For lacing leather the hides are given a 
mixture of one pound of fish oil; one pound of tallow ; four- 
ounces of linseed oil and two ounces of soda soap dissolved 
in a gallon of hot water. The hides are then dried again 
and worked soft. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

MISCELLANEOUS INFOEMATION. 

METHODS OF DECREASING LEATHER. 

In the coloring and finishing of some kinds of leather,, 
notably sheepskins and some kinds of goatskins, a great 
deal of trouble is encountered by the dyer and finisher in 
their efforts to get clear and uniform colors and a clear bright 
finish, owing to the grease in the leather. Sheepskins and, 
some kinds of goatskins are naturally full of fat and grease.. 
This is somewhat difficult to get rid of. In some instances, 
too, the leather, although not naturally greasy, is so over 
treated with oil or fat-liquor, as to make proper coloring 
and finishing almost impossible. 

In removing the natural grease from skins, hydraulic 
presses are used. The skins are pressed immediately after 
liming, by being placed between the plates of a press and 
sprinkled with sawdust to prevent them from slipping. 
The pressure applied in this way is very great and large 
quantities of grease flow from the skins. While this 
method is good it is not always as effectual as might be 
desired. The skins are also treated with naphtha, both in 
liquid and gas form. Other methods are sometimes used, 
but they not only remove the grease but injure the life of 
the skins as well. 

It sometimes happens that after leather is dried out and 
finished, the oil and grease in it, ferment and spew out 
upon the surface in the form of white grease spots, that not 
only destroy the appearance of the leather but injure the 
finish by dulling it, as well. Also when impure or low 
grade oils are used in giving to the leather suppleness and 

(416) 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 417 

strength quantities of gummy or resinous matter are de- 
posited in the skins and these also have an unpleasant effect 
upon the quality of the leather. Leather must be free from 
uncombined oil and grease and dry upon the grain before 
satisfactory finishing can be obtained. Treating greasy 
leather with lactic acid before it is colored by drumming 
the leather in the acid in weak solution, and also by apply- 
ing a dilute solution of lactic acid to the grain before the 
seasoning is applied is an effectual way of improving the 
clearness and brightness of the finish. Then there is a 
method of treating leather with naptha by which every 
particle of unconverted oil or fat is removed. This method 
is applied to the skins after they have been dried out and 
before they are finished. The method of procedure is to 
immerse the skins in a bath of pure refined naphtha, pre- 
ferably the ordinary commercial naphtha of about 70° 
Baum£, or other equivalent volatile hydro-carbon oil in a 
tank or close vessel, or drum, which either revolves or in 
which the skins are rapidly stirred or otherwise agitated, so 
as to insure rapid and thorough permeation of the naphtha. 
By processing the greasy leather in the naphtha, the latter 
becomes so fully saturated with the greasy and oily matter 
extracted from the skins that it will take up no more. To 
accomplish further removal of the grease the skins are re- 
moved to a second clean bath of pure naphtha and drenched 
therein as in the first case. The skins are subjected to a 
fresh supply of naphtha again and again, until the naphtha 
- in which the skins are last placed remains pure, and so far 
unaffected thereby as not to show upon proper test the least 
trace of oil or grease. 

When an impure or low grade oil has been used upon 
the skins, it is sometimes necessary to purify them and re- 
move from them the gummy or resinous matters that have 
resisted the action of the naphtha. In such cases a drench- 
ing with alcohol, wood-spirit, ammonia or other solvents 
is required. After this treatment the leather is dried out 
27 



418 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

and finished in the usual way, and when it is glazed it is 
unusually bright and clear, and the fibres are remarkably 
tough, soft and strong. 

A PATENTED PROCESS OF COLORING. 

Ordinarily skins are not subjected to dyeing agents until 
they are tanned. A method, of which the following is a 
description, has been invented by W. F. Sykes, of New 
York City, by which skins are colored in the untanned 
condition and subsequently tanned by a chrome process. 
The coloring matters used in this process are sulphur 
derivatives, or compounds, such as the coloring matter 
derived by treating dioxybenzones, paradiamines or amido- 
phenols with sulphur and caustic soda, or those obtained 
by treating quinone, hydroquinone, toluquinone, or pyro- 
catechin with sulphur and ammonia. The group also em- 
braces the analogous bodies known generically as " cachon 
de Laval," derived by treating certain organic substances 
with sulphur, caustic soda, and an organic acid, and em- 
braces other sulphuretted coloring matters. 

According to the ordinary procedure, 

As for instance to produce a logwood black, the skin after 
being tanned according to one of the commercial and well- 
known acid or mineral tanning processes is submitted to 
several operations, which require the skin to be handled 
several times, before it is colored and dried out. These 
processes are well-known to those who are familiar with the 
making of chrome leather. 

One of the known processes of acid or mineral tanning 
consists, essentially, in immersing the skins in chromic 
acid, and afterward reducing the chromic acid absorbed by 
the skins to chromic oxide, this being effected by the sul- 
phurous acid gas generated in a second bath composed of 
sulphite, bisulphite or thiosulphite of soda or potash with a 
mineral acid as a decomposing agent. The chromic acid 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 419 

may, however, be reduced and rendered insoluble in other 
ways, or the skins may be caused to take up a chromic salt 
direct, as in one-bath mineral tanning. It will suffice, 
however, to describe this invention in connection with the 
first of the mineral tanning processes referred to, which is 
well-known and widely practiced, and from this description 
it will be evident to persons skilled in the art of tanning 
that the process can be applied in connection with other 
chrome or mineral processes. 

The skins are tested in the usual way, up to and includ- 
ing the process of slating. After this operation the skins 
are immersed in a bath of the desired one of the specified 
group of coloring matters or combinations thereof. The 
strength of this solution will depend on the shade desired, 
and on the volume of the dye bath, and other consider- 
ations as well understood by practical dyers. If, for ex- 
ample, the coloring matter be that known as " Vidal black," 
and if a full black color be desired, a two per cent, solution 
or thereabout, would be proper. These coloring matters 
produce all shades from a light gray, drab or slate color, to 
a deep black. After washing, the next step consists in the 
immersion of the skins in a chromic bath which fixes the 
color. Specifically this bath may be composed of chromic 
acid or of bichromate of potash and a mineral acid, or any 
one of the known baths in mineral tanning. The strength 
of this bath, and the period of immersion will be such as 
ordinarily employed in tanning the skins. If a chromic- 
acid bath has been employed, the next step will be the 
usual treatment in a reducing bath, such as sulphite, bisul- 
phite or hyposulphite of soda, and an acid, whereby the 
chromic compound is rendered insoluble, and the tannage 
of the skins completed. The finishing operations are 
carried on in the manner commonly practiced. By this 
invention, the inventor claims to effect a saving in time, 
labor and materials, as well as of space. It is also claimed 
that dyeing with the group of colors specified previous to 



420 PKACTICAL TANNING. 

tanning brings the skins into a better condition for the 
latter operation, than when the skins are subjected to the 
chromic bath immediately after slating ; faster colors are 
produced than by ordinary methods ; the colors are not 
affected by acids or alkilies ; and the skins are made softer 
and more durable. By combining the colors various 
shades are produced. The skins may be dyed as described 
and then topped with an aniline or vegetable color. 

SOAP RECEIPTS. 

To prepare a soap useful in making fat-liquors, 

And for any purpose for which soap is needed in making 
leather, the following practical recipe will be found of value : 
Take exactly ten pounds of double refined 98 per cent, caustic 
soda powder, put it in any can or jar with forty-five pounds 
(four and one-half gallons) of water. Stir it once or twice 
when it will dissolve immediately, and become quite hot. 
Let it stand until the lye thus made becomes quite cold. 
Weigh out and place in any convenient vessel for mixing, 
exactly seventy-five pounds of clean grease, tallow or oil, 
not mineral oil. A good plan is to use one-third grease, 
one-third tallow and one-third cotton-seed oil. When 
grease and tallow are used they should be heated slowly 
over a fire until dissolved and then mixed with the oil. If 
oil is used alone no heating is required. The temperature 
of the melted grease and tallow need not exceed one hun- 
dred degrees. Pour the lye slowly into the melted grease 
or oil in a small stream continuously, at the same time 
stirring with a flat wooden stirrer about three inches broad ; 
continue gently stirring until the lye and grease are 
thoroughly combined and in appearance like honey. Do 
not stir too long or the mixture will separate itself again. 
The time required varies somewhat with the weather, and 
the kind of grease, tallow or oil used. From fifteen to 
twenty minutes is generally enough. When the mixing 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 



421 



is completed, pour off the liquid soap into any old square 
box sufficiently large to hold it, previously dampening the 
sides with water so as to prevent the soap sticking. Cover 
the box with old clothes or sacking, or better still put it in 
a warm place until the next day when the box will contain 
130 pounds of soap, which can then be cut up into cakes 
with a wire. Remember that the chief points in the above 
directions must be exactly followed. The lye must be 
allowed to cool. The melted tallow and grease must not 
be more than warm when it is used. The exact weight of 
double refined ninety-eight per cent, powdered caustic soda 
and tallow or oil must be taken ; also the lye must be 
stirred into the grease, and not the grease and oil added to 
the lye. If the grease or tallow used be not clean or con- 
tains salt it must be rendered or purified previous to use, 
that is to say, boiled with water and allowed to become hard 
again to throw out the impurities. Any salt present will 
spoil the whole operation entirely, but discolored or rancid 
grease or tallow is just as good as fresh for making this 
soap. If the soap turns out streaky or uneven it has not 
been thoroughly mixed. If very sharp to the taste too 
much soda has been used. In either case it must now be 
thrown into a pan and brought to a boil with a little more 
water. In the first case boiling is all that is necessary, in 
the other instances a very little oil or a very small quantity 
of the caustic soda must be added to the water. These 
things will never happen, however, if the directions are 
carefully and exactly followed, and after the soap has been 
made several times with the experience thus gained, the 
process is extremely easy and the result will always be a 
batch of good soap. Beef tallow makes the hardest soap, 
mutton fat a rather soft soap ; of oils, cotton-seed is the 
cheapest and best, but the soap is somewhat soft and 
lathers very freely. It will be evident that a smaller quan- 
tity of the soap can be made at a time, according to the 
above directions, by taking the ingredients in exact propor- 



422 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

tions. It is not advisable to make more than double the 
quantity prescribed, as it is difficult to work more by hand. 
By making successive batches one person can make two 
tons of this soap in a day with the apparatus, pans, etc., 
readily obtainable in an ordinary household. If the grease 
or tallow is perfectly clean and the oil light colored, the 
soap produced is quite white. 

Potash soft soap. 

To twenty pounds of clear grease take seventeen pounds 
of pure white potash. Buy the potash in as fine lumps as 
can be procured, and place it in the bottom of the soap 
barrel, which must be water tight and strongly hooped. 
Boil the grease and pour it boiling hot upon the potash : 
then add two pailfuls of boiling hot water and stir all to- 
gether. The next morning add two pails of cold water and 
stir for half an hour ; continue doing this until the barrel 
containing thirty-six gallons is filled up. In less than a 
week it will be ready for use. The borax or potash can be 
turned into the grease while boiling and also one pound of 
resin. The grease should be tried out and free from scraps, 
ham rinds, bones or any other debris ; then the soap will 
be clear and thick as jelly. 

This formula makes a good soap 

Useful as an ingredient of fat-liquors. For three gallons of 
soap use two gallons of tallow, and one-half gallon, cotton- 
seed oil. Mix together while both are lukewarm. To this 
mixture add one quart of caustic soda that has been slowly 
dissolved in two quarts of water in an earthen vessel. As 
a fat-liquor for seventy skins take ten pounds of soap to five 
gallons of water, boil thoroughly then add one gallon of 
degras. Emulsify thoroughly and run in sufficient water to 
mill the skins in. 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 423 

For some purposes concentrated aqueous solutions of soaps 

Are required, in which instances potash soaps are preferred. 
A potash soap extremely soluble in water is obtained by the 
saponification of castor oil with caustic potash. Three and 
one-half parts of mercury albuminate are thoroughly mixed 
with thirty parts of caustic potash, and the mixture is then 
poured into one hundred and fifty parts of castor oil. In 
place of castor oil cotton-seed oil may be used. The mix- 
ture is boiled and constantly stirred, and then allowed to 
evaporate to about two hundred and fifty parts and is then 
permitted to cool. 

Another soap is prepared as follows : One hundred parts 
of cocoanut oil, or cotton seed or other oil, are saponified 
with fifty parts of caustic soda, to which two parts of 
mercury albuminate have been added. For this purpose 
two parts of mercury albuminate are well mixed with ten 
parts of caustic soda until a perfectly uniform paste is ob- 
tained, when forty parts of caustic soda are added and the 
mixture is then poured into one hundred parts of cocoanut 
oil. The mass is constantly stirred until the saponification 
is complete and a uniform soapy mass is obtained, when the 
vessel is well covered and allowed to stand for some time. 
After two days standing the soap is ready for use. 

BLACKING AND SOFTENING COMPOSITIONS. 

A useful composition of matter to be used in the cleaning, 
blacking and oiling of leather may be made of the following 
ingredients, in the proportions named : Ten quarts of water, 
two ounces of bichromate of potash, two ounces of prussiate 
of potash, one pint of neatsfoot oil, one-half pound best 
lampblack, seventeen bars of Acme soap, one pound of cas- 
tile soap — the two kinds of soap to be finely shaven and 
boiled in water until no lumps are seen. Then the other 
ingredients are added, and all thoroughly stirred together. 
Then the mixture is poured into pans for cooling. The 



424 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

bichromate and prussiate of potash serve to harden the soap 
and to fix the color. The Acme soap is well known, and 
is considered more perfectly adapted to the purpose for 
which it is here employed than any other ingredient. The 
bars in which it is sold weigh one pound each. German- 
town lampblack is preferred because it is the purest lamp- 
black in the market. In using this composition, the leather 
should first be freed of all impurities by washing in clean 
water. Leather, no matter how hard and dry it may be, is 
given a new lustre and made soft and pliable. This com- 
position has been patented by Henry Parker, Wilming- 
ton, Del. 

Another composition of matter useful in softening 
And adding to the durability of tanned leather, is made of 
the following ingredients : Eight and one-half gallons of 
water, two pounds of gambier, one-half pound of beeswax, 
five pounds of glauber salt and one and one-half pounds of 
lampblack, all boiled together in a kettle until entirely dis- 
solved. Five pounds of beef suet are melted and strained 
through a fine sieve, and three quarts of water and twelve 
ounces of concentrated lye are added, and boiled until well 
mixed. Then the two solutions are combined and boiled 
slowly. Then after boiling, two gallons of crude coal-oil 
are added and the mixture stirred until it is cool. A few 
drops of cassia and alcohol may be added. This composi- 
tion is applied to the grain or the flesh side of the leather 
with a sponge or rag. No previous preparation of the 
leather is required. In finishing the flesh side, the lamp- 
black is omitted. It is useful in softening hard and dry 
leather, and restores old, brittle leather to a condition of 
softness and pliability. Belting, boots or shoes and harness 
may be improved by its use. Leather may also be finished 
with it. Boots or shoes may be polished with the use of 
shoe blacking after an application of the composition, re- 
ceiving a bright polish. Patented by E. Z. Coffee, Phila- 
delphia, Pa. 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 425 

A leather dressing possessing waterproof qualities 
Is sometimes very useful for the purpose of preserving, 
blacking and polishing leather. Such a compound may be 
made of beeswax, neatsfoot oil, drop-black, heel-ball and 
molasses. Of these articles, two ounces of beeswax, four 
ounces of neatsfoot oil, one and one-half ounces of drop- 
black, two ounces of heel-ball and one ounce of molasses 
are used. These ingredients are mixed and thoroughly 
amalgamated in the following manner : The neatsfoot oil 
and drop-black are mixed by trituration and ground in any 
suitable vessel, until they are thoroughly mixed together. 
Then the molasses is stirred in. In the meantime the heel- 
ball and beeswax are to be heated together in any suitable 
vessel until they reach the boiling point. Then the neats- 
foot oil, drop-black and molasses are stirred into the heel- 
ball and beeswax, and the whole compound thoroughly 
mixed and boiled so as to still further amalgamate them, 
and to bring them into complete affinity with each other. 
Then the mixture is allowed to cool and again mixed by 
trituration, so as to overcome the tendency of the heavier 
ingredients to gravitate while the compound has been in a 
melted condition. This compound may be applied to har- 
ness or other kinds of leather by means of a brush or cloth, 
or by any other suitable thing. As no expensive elements 
enter into the composition, it is very economic in its pro- 
duction. It produces a surface highly impervious to water, 
while of itself it is very penetrating and diffusive and ren- 
ders the leather very soft and pliable. A sufficient quantity 
of its waxy ingredients remains upon the surface of the 
leather to constitute a smooth, hard and glossy finish, which 
does not transfer the coloring ingredients to objects that 
come in contact with it, and which being elastic and pliable, 
does not crack under the influences of frost and heat. 
Patented by J. J. Baulch and others, St. Louis, Mo. 



426 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

TO PUT WEIGHT INTO SOLE LEATHER. 

Make a strong liquor, say 40 degrees barkometer test, or 
over. This can be made of liquor from the leaches strength- 
ened up by the addition of bark extract or quebracho ex- 
tract. After withdrawing the leather, wash it clean, par- 
tially sammy and then give the grain a coat of oil and the 
flesh a coat of sugar and Epsom salts. If the leather is 
hard give it 70 per cent, sugar and 30 per cent. Epsom 
salts. If it is soft give it 50 per cent, sugar, and 50 per 
cent, of 42 degree glucose. You can use from one-half 
pound to three pounds per side or about ten per cent, of the 
weight of the leather. Epsom salts have a softening ten- 
dency, and glauber salts may be used instead. Both 
materials produce good results. 

LACTIC ACID IN PLUMPING AND TANNING LEATHER. 

The following interesting process is patented by Sigmond 
Saxe, of New York City : There are several steps in the 
ordinary tanning process. A number of vats are usually 
provided and are filled with tanning liquor of different 
degrees of strength, the hides being placed in the vat con- 
taining the weakest liquor, and thence removed to the next 
vat in which the liquor is stronger. Some tanners prefer 
to let the hides remain in a single vat and to change the 
liquor around them. When this is done, the liquor first 
brought into contact with the hides is comparatively weak, 
and stronger liquors are used as the tanning progresses. 
In the ordinary processes of tanning the natural tan bark 
for instance, the bark of the chestnut-oak (or the extract of 
quebracho wood) is leached or steeped in water for the pur- 
pose of making the tanning solution. At other times the 
tanning liquor is made of a solution of some one of the other 
commercial tanning extracts, dissolved in water. Some- 
times, too, the tanning liquor consists of a double solution 
containing both the leached extract of natural bark and a 
commercial tanning extract prepared artificially. 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 427 

This invention relates more particularly to tanning pro- 
cesses in which either a commercial tanning extract is used 
exclusively, or in which an extract is used with extract 
obtained by leaching bark. A twenty-five per cent, solu- 
tion of ordinary commercial lactic acid is taken and appor- 
tioned to the quantity of hides to be tanned at the ratio of 
one-half to three-quarters of a pound of this acid for every 
one hundred pounds of hides. This fixed proportion is 
preserved no matter what may be the purpose for which 
the hides are tanned, or what may be the stage of the 
tanning process. Putting this commercial lactic acid into 
the solution, the tanning process goes on as stated with this 
difference, — to wit, the lactic acid plumps the hides — that 
is causes them to distend and swell, and thereby tan more 
quickly. As the commercial tanning extracts are of vege- 
table origin, and as the natural tanning extract obtained 
from the natural bark produces a tanning solution also of 
vegetable origin, this process is peculiarly applicable to so- 
called " vegetable " tanning. 

The addition of lactic acid to the tanning liquor causes 
the hides to retain their substance and to combine with a 
larger proportion of the tannin, thereby making a superior 
quality of leather, having a proportionately heavy weight. 
By this process a greater amount of tannin is made to com- 
bine with the albumen of the hide, than when other 
methods of tanning are used. 

In place of sour liquors used to plump the hides a liquor 
made of commercial tanning extracts to which some lactic 
acid has been added, is preferred. When a combination 
tanning liquor is used, made of the extract of the natural 
bark and tanning extract, the addition of lactic acid is an 
advantage as well as in a process employing a commercial 
tanning extract alone. Lactic acid may also be used in 
any process of retanning. For the retanning it is custom- 
ary to use a mixture of the extract of natural bark and 
commercial tanning extract. 



428 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

LOGWOOD LIQUOR. 

Into eighty gallons of water put seventy-five pounds of 
logwood chips, and a few ounces of sal-soda. Boil for two 
hours. Before using add a small quantity of either am- 
monia or sal-soda to each pailful of logwood liquor. Use 
the liquor warm, at a temperature of 110 degrees. The 
grain of leather should always be well filled with the log- 
wood liquor before a striker is applied. When a "sig" is 
required a solution of caustic soda and salts of tartar may be 
used — three pounds of the soda and three pounds of the 
salts boiled in fifty gallons of water. 

CLEARING LEATHER WITH ALUM AND SALT. 

Leather that is to be colored fancy shades is greatly bene- 
fitted by being cleared in a drum with a solution of alum 
and salt. This process is especially good for gambier and 
combination tanned Russia leather. The leather is taken 
in dry condition and uniformly moistened with warm water 
in a tub. It is then transferred to a drum and run for 
twenty minutes in the alum and salt — three quarts of alum 
and five quarts of salt being used for each one hundred and 
fifty pounds of dry leather. At the end of the twenty 
minutes the leather is washed off and given the first fat- 
liquor, dried out, colored and finished. Upon Russia leather, 
both black and colored, sulphated oil makes a very good 
fat-liquor. 

Borax and lactic acid 
Are also used upon this class of leather for the purpose of 
bleaching it and clearing the grain of grease and spots. 
This is a safe and efficient process, as it leaves no undesir- 
able effects upon the leather. The leather, taken from the 
tanning liquor is pressed and shaved and given the first 
fat-liquor and dried out. It is then moistened in a drum 
or tub with warm water and then given the borax, in 
quantity about five pounds for each one hundred and fifty 



MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION. 



429 



pounds of dry leather, dissolved in twenty gallons of warm 
water. The borax solution at the end of fifteen minutes is 
drained off and a lactic acid liquor given to the leather, 
made up of two gallons of acid in fifty gallons of warm 
water. The leather is run in this liquor for fifteen minutes, 
then washed thoroughly and is ready for the coloring pro- 
cess. The borax thoroughly cleanses the leather, and 
saponifies whatever fat or grease there may be in the grain, 
and the lactic acid clears the grain and opens it so that the 
coloring material can readily penetrate and produce deep 
and uniform colors. 

BLEACHING LEATHER WITH SULPHURIC ACID AND SUMAC. 

This process is useful in bleaching russet, skirting, 
Russia leathers, and in fact any class of leather that re- 
quires bleaching. Taken from the tanning liquors, pressed 
and shaved, the leather is first treated with sumac. Three 
pails of dry sumac in twenty-five gallons of hot water are 
required for fifty medium-sized sides or the equal or propor- 
tionate number of calf skins. Run the leather in the sumac 
liquor for twenty minutes, then allow it to press and drain. 
The first part of the bleaching process consists of the use of 
sumac and muriate of tin. Fifty gallons of water, eight 
pails of dry sumac and four pounds of muriate of tin are 
used, the whole being boiled and used at a temperature of 
125 degrees. Drum the leather in enough of this liquor to 
cover it, for one hour, then drain the liquor off and add 
sulphuric acid, about twenty ounces of the same being used 
for the quantity of leather mentioned above. Wash the 
leather for five minutes in this acid liquor, then wash it off 
in cold water and then dry it, after which it is ready for 
fat-liquoring, or coloring as it may require. 

For Russia leather, and other similar stock, another for- 
mula may be used, namely: two pails of dry sumac, sixteen 
ounces of sulphuric acid and four quarts of salt for each one 
hundred and fifty pounds of leather weighed in the dry state, 



430 PRACTICAL TANNING. 

after being fat-liquored and dried out. The leather is soft- 
ened with warm water in a drum, then the sumac is put in, 
next the salt and finally the acid. In this liquor the leather 
is run for thirty minutes, then it is washed thoroughly for 
fifteen minutes in clear water and is ready for the coloring 
process. For colored leathers, fat-liquors made of oil, soap 
and degras produce the best results. The best oils for the 
purpose are neatsfoot, cod and sod oils. 

Oxalic acid is also used as a bleaching agent upon leather. 
Sometimes it is used alone and again it is combined with 
tin crystals. Sixteen ounces of oxalic acid and eight ounces 
of tin crystals are used for each one hundred and fifty 
pounds of dry leather. Run the leather in the liquor for 
twenty minutes, wash it thoroughly and give it color. The 
leather is usually fat-liquored and dried out before it is 
bleached. 



APPENDIX. 



BEAMIT. 
One-Bath Beam-House Process. 

Beamit, which is manufactured by the American Hide Pro- 
cess Co. , Chicago, Ills. , is claimed to be a compound resulting 
from many years work on the part of a chemist associated with 
that of a practical tanner, and is said to offer the following ad- 
vantages : 

It takes the place of liming, arsenic, sodium, etc., for unhair- 
ing hides, horse hides, calf, kip, sides and wool pelts. It does 
not hurt or injure the hands of the workers in any manner, is 
simple to use and certain in its action. 

After the hides or skins have been thoroughly soaked and 
fleshed they are immersed for twenty-four hours in a solution 
of Beamit. Heavy stock may perhaps require one handling 
during the 24 hours. Stock soaked in the solution is passed 
directly to the beamsters for unhairing. 

Beamit-soaked hides imhair very readily, the fine hair and 
the scurf go with the hair. After unhairing, the stock should 
be washed in a bridged wheel, with luke-warm water. It is 
then in condition to receive tannin of any kind. That is to 
say, stock after being soaked and fleshed can in twenty-four 
hours' time be ready for the liquor, thereby making a great 
saving in time and labor as compared with the present process 
of tanning. 

Beamit leaves the skin in a clean and pure condition, so that 
it will rapidly absorb anything given to it. Care therefore must 
be taken not to use bate, pickle or tan liquor too strong. 

Bate and Pickle. — The use of one or both of these can as a 
rule, be dispensed with, but for soft velvety grain, certain 
leathers and some natural skins it may be found advantageous 
to use an extremely light bate or pickle or perhaps both. If the 

(431) 



432 APPENDIX. 

tanner decides to bate he will find two hours' time in an ex- 
hausted bate sufficient, and the same holds good in regard to 
pickle. 

Tan Liquors. — For chrome tan the liquors should be reduced 
in strength at least 50 to 75 per cent, on the first bath, and 
strengthened from time to time as the tanner sees fit. In the 
chrome liquor a skin in a paddle wheel should require from 3 
to 4 days to tan ready for the shaving room. In vegetable tan 
the treatment should be precisely the same as for limed skins, 
but the liquor must be greatly reduced in strength to prevent 
the skins being over-tanned. 

Beamit does not remove the gelatine (gluten) from the skin, 
therefore it makes plumper leather, and will make foot for pound 
in chrome leather, as no shrinkage of the skin occurs. In vege- 
table tan the skin makes plumper leather and yet makes as 
large a percentage of measure as limed skins. Beamit treated 
skins absorb dye and fat liquor much more quickly than limed 
skins. They dry rapidly on the tacking frame, stake, board 
and glaze easily, taking all finishes rapidly. Leather from 
skins treated with Beamit and properly tanned will not crack 
on the grain. The grain is flexible and cannot be "pipey" on 
a fair skin. On a murrain skin where there is a good hide there 
is good leather, and where there is flanky leather it is better 
than that on limed skins. 



INDEX. 



ACID, removal of, from pickled 
skins, 25 

tanning, new one-bath process of, 
22, 23 
process of, 109-111 
Acids, removal of, from pickled skins, 
15-17 
use of, for neutralizig lime, 252 
Acme soap, 423, 424 
Adler, Geo. W., process of chrome 

tanning patented by, 213-215 
African goat-skins, 116 
Alizarine oils, use of, in tanning, 
164-166 
or Turkey-red oils, 156, 157 
Alum and chrome, combination pro- 
cess of, 45, 46 
salt, clearing leather with, 
428 
process for hides with the 
hair on, 330-332 
leather, preparation of an extra- 
fine quality of, 42, 43 
oil and napa process for sheep- 
skins, 41-56 
processes, 311-314 
salt and gambier liquors, re-tan- 
ning with, 155 
tanned goatskins, chrome tanning, 
111,112 
sheepskins, to bleach the 
wool on, 64 
-tawing, patented process of, 167- 
169 
process of, 41-46 
with Turkey-red oils, 166 
Alumed pelts, best way to scour, 67, 68 
American Hide Process Co., Chicago, 
111., beamit manufactured by, 430- 
432 
Aniline dyeing in drums, 33 

dyes, coloring chrome-tanned 
goatskins with, 124, 125 
dissolving of, 33, 129, 135 _ 
for chrome-tanned sheepskins, 

32-35 
on vegetable tanned stock, 310 

(433) 



Animal and bird dung, drenching 

with, 11 
Antimonine, 75, 128 

and tartar emetic, prepara- 
tion of skins by the use of, 
309, 310 
Antiseptic tanning composition, 176- 

179 
Arsenic limes, liming kangaroo skins 
in, 337, 338 
red, use of, in connection with 
lime, 88, 89 



BAG, case, lace, russet, harness, 
line, strap and belt leather, 411- 
415 
Bark and extract tannage for sheep- 
skins, 69 
tanned sheepskins, good 
black on, 77 
extract and chamois tanning of 

sheepskins, 69-85 
liquor, saltpetre, alum and glau- 
ber salt, tanning with, 175, 176 
Barkometer, use of the, 377 
Base-ball cover and whip leather, 

399, 400 
Basils, process for final finishing of, 

159-164 
Bate, coal tar, use of, 258-260 
from crude cresol, 253 
Norris new solid, 256, 257 
Bates and bating, 96, 97 
Bating, bichromate of potash in, 262, 
263 
by the use of a compound solution 
of sulphuric acid, borax and 
glauber salt, 254, 255 
disturbing influences in, 97, 98 
grains, 383, 384 
heavy hides, 370, 371 
interesting patent process of, 260, 

261 
kangaroo skins, 338, 339 
liquor, putrefaction of, 98 
or puring of goatskins. 94, 95 
patented processes for, 252-263- 



434 



INDEX. 



Bating processes as applied to calfskins, 
273-278 
with naphthaline sulphuric acids, 
257, 258 
potatoes and yeast, 255, 256 
Baulch, J. J., leather dressing pos- 
sessing water-proof qualities pat- 
ented by, 425 
Beamhouse and tannery, relations be- 
tween the processes of, to the 
coloring process, 132 
mistreatment of skins in the, 118 
process, one-bath, 431, 432 
processes for calfskins, 264-278 
Beamit, 431. 432 

Belt, bag, case, lace, russet, harness, 
line and strap leather, 411-415 
laces, new method for, 173-175 
Bichromate of potash, use of, in bat- 
ing, 262, 263 
Bindings, leather for, 54, 55 

preparation of sheepskins for, 53 
Bird and animal dung, drenching 

with, 11 
Bismarck brown on goatskins. 131 
Bisulphite of soda and permanganate 

of potash, bleaching with, 68 
Black chrome-tanned calfskins, 281- 
283 
sheep leather, trouble with, 
and prevention, 39, 40 
good, on bark and extract tanned 

sheepskins, 77 
leather, gray bottom on, 115 
napa leather, coloring of, 51 
shoe leather, finishing skins into, 
36-38 
Blacking and softening compositions, 
423-425 
chrome-tanned kangaroo leather, 

344, 345 
good, preparation of, 51 
the grain, 152 
Bleaching and clearing leather with 
borax and lactic acid, 428, 429 
calfskins, 322 
leather, methods of, 353-359 

with sulphuric acid and 
sumac, 429, 430 
of sheep pelts, lambskins and 
goatskins, tanned with the 
wool and hair on, 68 
Bloom, prevention of, 163 
Blue flesh, 305 

Boracic acid, use of in soaking, 87 
Borax and lactic acid, bleaching and 
clearing leather with, 428, 429 
use of in soaking, 86, 87, 268 
Bran drench, 8-11, 146 



Bran drench, action of, 9 

as applied to goatskins, 99, 

100 
for calfskins, 273-275 
preparation of, 9, 10 
use of, for deliming calfskins, 277 
Brazilian goatskins, 116 
Brown and tan, various shades of, on 

sheepskins, 30 
Browns on goatskins, 130,131,135,136 
Button fly linings, leather for, 52, 53 

CALF-KID process, old, preparation 
of very soft and tough 
leather by the use of a 
form of, 401 
tawing, modified form of, 43, 44 
Calf leather, dull finish for, 308 
glazed finish for, 308 
treatment of, after the oiling 
operation, 289 
Calfskin, flesh ers, glove leather from, 
314, 315 
glove leather by a one-bath chrome 
process, 318 
fat liquor for, 320 
yellow, 323, 324 
leather, manufacture of, 264-278 
process for finishing, 186, 187 
Calfskins, alum processes for, 311-314 
and chrome processes, 279-296 
bating processes as applied to, 

273-278 
beamhouse processes for, 264-278 
black chrome tanned, 281-283 
bleaching of, 322 
bran drench for, 273-275 
chrome tanned, directions for col- 
oring, 293-295 
for glove leather, col- 
oring of, 319 
colored chrome-tanned, 290-296 

fat-liquoring of, 295, 296 
combination and vegetable-tanned , 

fat-liquoring of, 303, 304 
dongola liquor for, 301-303 
drenching of, in a pin-mill drum, 
276 
of with lactic acid, 275, 276 
glove leather from, 264 
grain blacking of, 287 
green, grading and classification 

of, 265, 266 
heavy, fat-liquoring of, 285, 286 
hemlock or combination liquors 
for, 301 
quebracho and gambier tan- 
nages for, 298-300 
light, fat-liquoring of, 285 



INDEX. 



435 



Calfskins, limes for, 316, 317 
manure bating for, 277, 278 
oil processes for, 323 
oil tanned, 320, 321 
one-bath process for, 280, 281 
palmetto tannage for, 297, 298 
pickling of, 317, 318 
popular process of preparing, for 
tanning by chrome methods, 
269 
practice in staining, fat-liquoring 

and dyeing, 284, 285 
preparation of limes for, 270, 271 
processes of chrome tanning, 318, 

319 
salted, good method of soaking, 

268, 269 
seasoning for, 289, 290 
simple method of tanning, 315 
soaking of, 266-269 
soft and tough leather from, 322 
striking out, pressing and shav- 
ing, 281 
tanned for glove and mitten pur- 
poses, 311-324 
tanning of, with the two-bath 

process, 279, 280 
use of bran for deliming, 277 
various methods of tanning and 

finishing. 264, 265 
vegetable and combination tanned, 
297-310 
tanned, coloring 
and finishing 
of, 304-310 
Carbolic acid, 177 

Carbonic acid gas for neutralizing lime 
in hides, skins and glue stock, 261, 
262 
Case, lace, russet, harness, line, strap, 

belt and bag leather, 411-415 
Cassella & Co's brands of aniline dyes, 

33, 34 
Chadwick, S., process for changing 
the chromic acid in skins into 
chromic oxide, patented by, 205, 
206 
Chamois leather, 82-85 

finishing processes for, 83 
from fleshers, 84 
Chamoising or oil-tanning, 167 
Chicken manure, 96 
China goatskins, 116 
Chocolate brown on calfskins, 293 

on goatskins, 130, 131 
shade on sheepskins, 76 
shades on goatskins, 135, 136 
Chrome alum, preparation of liquors 
by the use of, 225 



Chrome and vegetable tannage, com- 
bination of, 70, 71 
leather, fat-liquoring of, with mul- 
sine, 394, 395 
importance of fat-liquoring in 

making, 114, 115 
method of tawing for making, 

206, 207 
retanning of with gambier or 
palmetto, 300, 301 
liquor, application of, to goatskins, 

102, 103 
liquors, one-bath, tanning goat- 
skins with, 104, 
105 
tanning pickled 
sheepskins with, 
15, 16 
methods of tanning deerskins, 
233-236 
popular process of preparing 
calfskins for tanning by, 
269 
process of tanning, good rule to 
follow in the making of light 
leather by any, 112 
processes and calfskins, 279-296 
for tanning sheepskin fleshers, 

56. 
one-bath, for kangaroo leath- 
er, 342-344 
-tanned calfskins, colored, 290-296 
directions for color- 
ing, 293-295 
for glove leather, col- 
oring of, 319 
goatskins, beneficial effects of 
permanganate of pot- 
ash on, 122, 123 
coloring of, before they 
become dry, 
126 
with aniline 
dyes, 124, 
125 
with sulf- 
amine dyes, 
135-137 
finishing of, into colored 
and black, glazed and 
dull leather, 119-143 
practical working direc- 
tions for dyeing, 128, 
129 
kangaroo leather, preparation 

of, for coloring, 347 
leather, retanning of, with 
gambier or palmetto, 378- 
380 



436 



INDEX. 



Chrome-tanned sheep leather, black, 
trouble with, and pre- 
vention, 39, 40 
leathers, manufacture of, 
15-40 
sheepskins, aniline dyes for, 
32-35 
finishing of, into glove 

leather, 28 
for black shoe leather, 

finishing of, 36-38 
mordanting of, 40 
very practical method 
of preparing, with 
sumac, 31, 32 
side glove leather, 395, 396 
leather, 382-384 
-tanning alum-tanned goatskins, 
111, 112 
calfskins, process of, 318, 319 
goatskins, 101-118 
improved process of, 199- 

202 
one-bath processes of, 208-210 
preparation of sheepskins for, 

15 
process of, that produces 
leather that possesses the 
good qualities of both alum 
and chrome leather, 213- 
215 
sheepskins, common method 

of, 17-19 
two-bath, new process of, 103, 

104 
upper from cowhides, 385, 386 
Chromine, 218-222 
Coal tar bate, drenching in, 17 

use. of, 258-260 
Coats, tanning hides for, 329, 330 
Coffee, E. Z., softening composition, 

patented by, 424 
Colored chrome-tanned calfskins, 290- 
296 
goat leather, seasoning for, 141 
Coloring and finishing India-tanned 
skins, 153-158 
vegetable and com- 
bination tanned 
calfskins, 304-310 
v e g e t a b le-tanned 
sheepskins, 71, 72 
black napa leather, 51 
fat-liquoring and finishing of 
hemlock, gambier, palmetto, 
quebracho and combination- 
. tanned sides into shoe leather, 
387-396 
leather, patented process of, 418- 
420 



Coloring material, quality of, 132 

quality of water, used in the pro- 
cess of, 133, 135 
relations between the beamhouse 
and tannery processes to the 
process of, 132 
sheepskins, 28-31 

use of lactic acid in, 73, 74 
the flesh of side leathers, 389, 390 
Colors, clearing the grain for, 153 

effect of hard water on, 134 
Coltskins and horsehides, 397-410 
blue flesh upon, 403, 404 
Russia, for shoe purposes, color- 
ing the flesh of, yellow, 303 
tanning of. 401 
softening of, 397, 398 
Combination tannage for sheepskins, 
70 
tanned kangaroo leather, 340, 341 
skins, fat-liquor for, 150 
Cooper, Chas. W. , process for neutral- 
izing lime, patented by, 261, 262 
Corrosive sublimate, 177 
Cowhides, chrome upper from, 385, 

386 
Cresol, crude, bate obtained from, 253 
sulfonic acid, 252 

antiseptic property of, 
253 
Culls, 265 

Currying and fat-liquoring goatskins, 
149, 150 

DAIRY skins. 266 
Deacon skins, 266 
Deerskins, 227-240 
bleaching of, 238 
chrome methods of tanning, 233- 

236 
crude process of tanning, 236, 237 
heating of, 238 
liming of. 227 

oiling and beating of, 237, 238 
oil or chamois tanned, 237-239 
old-fashioned way of tanning, 232, 

233 
removing the grain of, 227 

the hair from, 227 
tanning of, 227-231 
tawing of, with sulphate of 

alumina, 231, 232 
two-bath processes for tanning, 

235, 236 
verv soft, tough leather from, 
239, 240 
Degras, 321 
Degreasing leather, methods of, 416- 

418 
Dennis, Martin, process, 210-213 



INDEX. 



437 



Depilating kangaroo skins, 336, 337 
mixture for, 249, 250 
patented methods of, 241-250 
Depilatory, new XXX, methods of 
using, 241-247 
wool pulling with, 
13, 14 
Dieterle, W. , process of bating, 

patented by, 252-254 
Direct blue paste, 51 
Dog dung, 96 
Dolley and Crank, process of tawing 

patented by, 159-164 
Dongola and India-tanned goat and 
sheepskins, 144-158 
liquor for calfskins, 301-303 
for goat and sheepskins, 148 
good for sides, 381, 382 
tannage, composition of, 144 

for sides, 380 
tanned goat and sheepskins, 144- 

153 
tanning process, 147, 148 
Drench, bran, 8-11 

for skivers, 78, 79 
Drenching in coal-tar bate, 17 
pickled sheepskins, 16, 17 
process, objects of, 8 
sheepskins and goatskins, 146, 147 
with animal and bird dung, 11 
with lactic acid, 11, 12 
Drum coloring, 128 

-tanning, rapid processes of, 187— 
193 
Drums, aniline dyeing in, 33 
tanning of skins in, 113 
Dry or flint hides, soaking of, 363- 

365 
Dung bate, danger and uncertainty of, 

97, 98 
Durio, J. , rapid process of drum tan- 
ning, patented by, 187-191 
Durio, S. G. , rapid process of drum 

tanning, patented by, 191-193 
Dyeing bark tanned leather black, 77 
chrome-tanned goatskins, practi- 
cal working directions for, 128, 
129 
cleanliness in, 72, 73 

EAST India kip, process for final 
finishing of, 159-164 
Endemann, H. , method of tawing for 
making chrome leather, patented 
by, 206, 207 
Engelke, J., antiseptic tanning com- 
position, patented by, 176-179 
European goatskins, 116 



FAT-LIQUOK for calfskin glove 
leather, 320 
for combination tanned skins, 150 
kangaroo leather, 346 
palmetto tannage, 298 
yellow calfskin glove leather, 
323, 324 
formulas, 388 
very good, 46, 138, 139 
Fat-liquoring, 114, 115, 137, 138 

and currying goatskins, 149, 

150 
and grain-blacking in one 

operation, 121, 122 
colored calfskins, 295, 296 
combination and vegetable- 
tanned calfskins, 303, 304 
heavy calfskins, 285, 286 
light calfskins, 285 
sheepskins, 150, 151 
with mulsine, 391-394 
-liquors for sheepskins, 31 

side leathers, formulas 
for, 390 
formulas for, 304 
Finish, clear, bright, liquor for, 36 
dull, on napa leather, 51 
securing the best, 38 
Finishing and coloring India-tanned 
skins, 153-158 
and glazing goatskins, 140, 141 
chrome-tanned goatskins into col- 
ored and black, 
glazed and dull 
leather, 119-143 
sheepskins into glove 
leather, 28 
leather, 153 
sheep leather, 74, 75 
skivers, 81 
Flanks, faulty condition of, 116 
Flesh, blue color on, 40, 121, 122, 153, 
283, 305 
coloring the, 37, 115, 151, 152 
side of black chrome leather, dye- 
ing of, 281-283 
yellow, 305, 306 
Fleshers, chamois leather from, 84 
sheepskin, process of tanning, 54, 
55, 56 
Formic aldehyde, 158 

as a tanning agent, 169- 

171 
peculiar action of, upon 
the fibres of the skin, 
163, 164 
use of, in tanning, 159- 
164 
French process of tanning, 171, 172 



438 INDEX. 

Furs and hairskins, tanning of, 325- 

334 
Fustic as a mordant, 126, 127, 292 

GAMBIER and quebracho, combi- 
nation process of, for sides, 
380, 381 
or palmetto, retanning chrome 
leather with, 300, 301 
retanning with, 378-380 
palmetto and combination- 
tanned calfskins, color- 
ing and finishing of, 308- 
310 
and combination-tanned 
kangaroo leather, treat- 
ment of, after tanning, 
348-352 
process for kangaroo skins, 339, 

340 
quebracho and hemlock tan- 
nages, 298-300 
tanning side leathers with, 372, 
373 
Gathering limes, 5 

Glazing and finishing goatskins, 140, 
141 
colored chrome-tanned sheepskins, 

35, 30 
liquor, good, for sheepskins, 38 
Glove and mitten leather, process for, 
405-408 
purposes, calfskins tan- 
ned for, 311-324 
leather, calfskin, by a one-bath 
chrome process, 
318 
fat-liquor for, 320 
chrome-tanned side, 395, 396 
coloring chrome-tanned calf- 
skins for, 319 
essential qualities of, 143, 315, 

316 
finishing chrome-tanned 

sheepskins into, 28 
from calfskin fieshers, 314, 
315 
calfskins, 264 
greenish yellow, 35 
kid, preparation of, by taw- 
ing, 142 
process for, 141, 142 
soft and tough, process for, 

313, 314 
treatment of horsehides for, 

404, 405 
use of Turkey-red oil in tan- 
ning sheep and lambskins 
into, 45 



Glove leather, very soft and nearly 
white, 320 
strong, method of 
tawing sheep- 
skins and lamb- 
skins into, 44,45 
tough, 48 
yellow, 30 

calfskin, 322, 324 
chi'ome-tanned, 35 
material, chrome-tanning of horse- 
hides for, 406-408 
Gloves, cheap, leather for, 52, 53 
leather for, 54, 55 
soft tough leather for, 53, 54 
Glues, 265 
Glue stock, neutralizing lime in, 261 ,. 

262 
Goat leather, black, 155, 156 

blacking of, by dyeing on a 

machine. 122 
clearing the grain of, 156 
colored, seasoning for, 141 
essential qualities of, 95, 96 
finishing of, 153 
good, preparation of, by taw- 
ing, 106, 107 
use of permanganate of potash 

in coloring, 122-124 
very light and fancy shades 
on, 156 
Goatskins, 86-100 

alum tanned, chrome- tanning of,. 

111,112 
and sheepskins, dongola-tanned r 
144-153 
dongola and India tanned, 
144-158 
application of the chrome liquor 

to, 102, 103 
bating or puring of, 94, 95 
beamhouse work for, 86-100 
black on the grain side of, 119-121 
bran-drench as applied to, 99, 100 
browns on, 130, 131, 135, 136 
cheaper grades of, 117 
chocolate shades on, 135, 136 
chrome-tanned, beneficial effects 
of permanganate of 
potash to, 122, 123 
coloring of, before they 

become dry, 126 
coloring of, with ani- 
line dyes, 124, 125 
coloring of, with sul- 
famine dyes 135-137 
finishing of, into col- 
ored and black, 
glazed and dull 
leather, 119-143 



INDEX. 



439 



Goatskins, chrome-tanned, practical 
working directions for dyeing, 
128-129 
chrome-tanning of, 101-118 
cleansing of, 98, 99 

of lime, 133, 134 
clearing the grain of, of grease, 

127, 128 
coarse, rough grain along the 
necks and shoulders of, 117, 118 
danger of putrefaction of, 87 
dark tans on, 135, 136 
depilation of, in a solution of sul- 
phide of sodium, 92 
disturbing influence in bating, 

97, 98 _ 
dongola liquor for, 148 
drenching of, 146, 147 
dry-salted soaking of, 86, 87 
fat-liquoring of, 137, 138 

and currying of, 149, 150 
grain-blacking in one 
operation, 120, 121 
flanky, 116 

glazing and finishing of, 140, 141 
heating o^, 87, 88 
imperfectly tanned, improvement 

of, 158 
increasing the solidity and firm- 

nesss of, 131, 132 
India-tanned, coloring and finish- 
ing of, 153-158 
preparation of, 154 
light tan shades on, 136 
liming process for, 88, 89 
manure bate for, 96, 97 
method of tanning with the one- 
bath process, 107, 108 
methods of coloring, 124 

of using sulphite of sodium 
on, 90, 91 
mordanting of, 128 
new process of acid tanning for, 
109-111 
two-bath chrome- 
tanning for, 
103, 104 
original two-bath process for, 101- 

103 
ox-blood shade on, 136, 137 
pickled, satisfactory method of 

tanning, 109 
placing of, in the first lime, 93 
plumping of, 92, 93 
preliminary pickling of. 101, 102 
preparation of, for coloring, 125, 
126 
tanning, 86- 
100, 145-146 



Goatskins, process for final finishing 
of, 159-164 
pricked or pitted grain of, 87 
raw, action of lime upon, 95, 96 
red arsenic for, 133 
retanning of, with alum, salt and 
gambier liq- 
uor, 155 
sumac, 154, 155 
soaking of, 145 

and softening of, 152, 153 
sorting of, 134 
striking out of, 139 
tanning of, directly after the 
drenching and washing, 105 
of, with the one-bath chrome 
liquors, 104, 105 
tan shades on, 124, 131 
treatment of, in a hot bath of 

sumac, 118 
various shades of green on, 137 
very fine kid leather from, 111, 

112 
with the hair on, bleaching of, 68 
Grain blacking, 37, 38, 152 

and fat-liquoring in one 

operation, 121 
of calfskins, 287 
of goatskins, 119-121 
clearing the, for colors, 153 
of grease, 36 
of greasy matter, 140 
coarse, rough, along the necks 
and shoulders of goatskins, 117, 
118 
dark and brittle spots upon the, 

371 
dyeing leather black upon the, 

306, 307 
open, porous, cause of, 115 
removing the, of deerskins, 227 
Grains, bating of, 383, 384 
fat-liquor for, 394 
tanning the, 384-386 
palmetto extract for retanning, 373 
Grease, clearing the grain of goatskins 
of, 127, 128 
natural, removal of, from skins, 

416 
removal of, from sheepskins, 15, 41 
Greases and oils, effect of different, on 

leathers, 390, 391 
Greenish-yellow shade on glove 

leather, 35 
Green-salted hides, soaking of, 362,363 
Green shade on sheepskins, 76, 77 

shades, various, on goatskins, 137 



440 



INDEX. 



HAEMATOXYLIN, 306 
Haemetine, 306 
Hair, removing the, from deerskins, 

227 
Hairskins and furs, tanning of, 325-334 
and hides for robes, process for, 

327-329 
dyeing of, witli ursol dyes, 333, 

334 
softening of, 333 
Hard water, effect of, on colors, 134 
use of, 72 
preventing the evil effects of, 

72 
softening of, 134, 135 
Harness, line, strap, belt, bag, case, 
lace and russet leather, 411-415 
pads, lining for, 176 
Heavy hides, preparing of, for tan- 
ning, 360-371 
Hemlock and quebracho extracts, com- 
bination of, 71, 411, 412 
liquors, toning down the harshness 

of leather tanned with, 413 
or combination liquors for calf- 
skins and kips, 301 
quebracho, and gambier tannages, 

298-300 
tanned sole leather, bleaching of, 
357, 358 
Hemolin XS, 306 
Hersey, G. W., process of tanning 

patented by, 184, 185 
Hides and hairskins for robes, process 
for, 327-329 
skins, process for preparing, 
for tanning, 247-249 
rational method of neu- 
tralizing lime in, 252 
tanning of, so as to pre- 
vent them from be- 
coming hard, 183, 184 
dry or flint, soaking of, 363, 364 
for lace leather, tanning of, 414, 
415 
robes, coats, etc., tanning of, 
329, 330 
green-salted, soaking of, 362, 363 
heavy, bating of, 370, 371 

danger of putrefaction of, 

364, 365 
lining of, 366-369 
preparing of, for tanning, 
360-371 
neutralizing lime in, 261, 262 
process of tanning, 181 
soaking of, 360-362 
with the hair on. alum and salt 
process for, 330- 
332 



Hides with the hair on, retanning of, 

332, 333 
Hitt, J. W., process of tanning pat- 
ented by, 175, 176 
Hoelck, J., process of rapid tanning 

patented by, 179-181 
Holmes, H., mixture for unhairing, 

patented by, 249, 250 
Horse collars, lining for, 176 
Horsehide leather for shoe purposes, 
coloring the flesh yellow, 403 
shoe leather, 401-403 
Horsehides and coltskins, 397-410 
blue flesh upon, 403, 404 
chrome-tanning of, for glove ma- 
terial, 406-408 
for glove leather, treatment of, 

404, 405 
palmetto extract for, 401-403 
softening of, 397, 398 
tanned in oil, 408, 409 
use of sulphide of sodium upon, 
398 
Horse leather, bright glazed finish on, 
403. 404 
dull finish on, 403 
seasoning liquor for a glazed 
finish upon, 404 
Hull, C. S., and Burns, P. S. , process 

of bating patented by, 257, 258 
Hydrogen dioxide, reduction with, 

202-205 
Hyposulphite of soda, 42 

INDIA and dongola-tanned goat and 
sheepskins, 144-158 
-tanned goat and sheepskins, 
coloring and finishing of. 153- 
158 
Indians, process of tanning deerskins 

in use among the, 236, 237 
Information, miscellaneous, 416-430 
Iron striker, good, preparation of, 288, 
289 



K 



ANGAKOO leather, 335-352 

blue or purple back 

on, 350 
c h r o m e - 1 anned, 

blacking of, 342- 

344 
chrome-t anned, 

preparation of, 

for coloring, 347 
colored yellow on 

the flesh side, 

349, 350 _ 
combin ation-tan- 

ned, 340, 341 



INDEX. 



441 



Kangaroo leather, dull finish on, 350. 
351 
fat-liquor for. 346 
gambier, palmetto and 
combination tanned, 
treatment of, after tan- 
ning, 348-352 
glazed finish on, 346, 347 
of remarkably fine tex- 
ture, manufacture of, 
341, 342 
one-bath chrome p ro- 

cesses for, 342-344 
palmetto treatment of, 

347, 348 
seasonings for, 352 
success in coloring, 351, 

352 
sumac treatment of, 347 
skin, characteristics of, 335 

process for finishing a, 186, 187 
skins, bating of, 338, 339 
depilating of, 336, 337 
gambier process for, 339, 340 
liming of, in arsenic limes, 337, 

338 
softening of, 335, 336 
Kid glove leather, preparation of, by 
tawing, 142 
process for, 141, 142 
leather, very fine, preparation of, 
111, 112 
Killing, process of, 334 
Kips, hemlock or combination liquors 

for, 301 
Knees, Chas., process for making 
leather that is waterproof, elastic, 
pliable, heat and frost-proof, pat- 
ented by, 172, 173 
Koch, C. W., process of bating, pat- 
ented by, 260, 261 
Krug, W. H., and Haley, E. J., pro- 
cess of bleaching leather patented 
by, 355-359 
K. S. solution, 110 

LACE and whip leather, tanning 
composition for, 415 
leather, 414, 415 
russet, harness, line, strap, belt, 
bag and case leather, 411-415 
Lactic acid, advantages of, 276, 277 

and borax, bleaching and 
clearing leather with, 
428, 429 
clearing the grain of goat- 
skins of grease with, 127, 
128 
drenching with, 11 , 12, 147, 
275, 276 



Lactic acid in plumping and tanning 
leather, 426, 427 
treating greasy leather with , 

417 
use of, 398, 399 

as bate, 370, 371 
in coloring sheep- 
skins, 73, 74 
Lactracine, 151 

Lambskins and sheepskins, method of 

tawing, into very 

soft, strong glove 

leather, 44, 45 

oil-tanned, 46-48, 

49,50 
use of Turkey-red 
oil in tanning of, 
into glove leath- 
er, 45 
very soft, tough 
glove leather 
from, 48 
combination process of alum and 

chrome for, 45, 46 
modified form of calf-kid tawing 

for, 43, 44 
removal of grease from, 41 
with the wool, bleaching of, 68 
Lappe, C. E. , and H. A., process of 

tanning patented by, 185-187 
Leather, black, gray bottom on, 115 
seasoning for, 140 
bleaching of, 353-359 
with oxalic acid, 430 
with sulphuric acid and su- 
mac, 429, 430 
brown color on goatskins, 131 
calfskin, manufacture of, 264-278 
chrome-tanned, retanning of, with 

gambier or palmetto, 378-380 
cleaning, blacking and oiling, 

composition for, 423, 424 
clearing of, with alum and salt, 

428 
coloring of, patented process for, 

418-420 
dark tanned, lightening the color 

of, 354, 355 
degreasing, methods of, 416-418 
dressing possessing waterproof 

qualities, 425 
dyeing black of, upon the grain, 

306, 307 
excellent, preparation of, by com- 
bining a chrome and vegetable 
tannage, 70, 71 
fancy shades on. 198 199 
finished, cause of imperfections in, 
7,8 



442 



INDEX. 



Leather, finishing the, 153 

for vamps and tops of shoes, manu- 
facturing and finishing, 185-187 
greasy, treatment of, with lactic 
acid, 417 
of, with naphtha, 
417 
increasing the solidity and firm- 
ness of, 37 
kangaroo, 335-352 
laces, new method for, 173-175 
lactic acid in plumping and tan- 
ning, 426, 427 
light, good rule to follow in the 

making of, 112 
method of tanning, whereby the 
hides are rendered soft and pli- 
able, 184, 185 
palmetto-tanned, 413, 414 
possessing some of the qualities of 
both chrome and vegetable- 
tanned stock, 149 
soft and tough, from calfskins, 
322 
pliable, essential qualities of, 
369, 370 
that is waterproof, elastic, pliable, 
heat and frost proof, process for 
making, 172, 173 
tough, of light color, 400, 401 
use of permanganate of potash in 

coloring, 122-124 
very soft, and tough, preparation 
of, by the use of a form of 
the old calf-kid process, 
401 
tough, process for making, 
52, 53 
white grease spots on, 416 

very soft and tough, prepara- 
tion of, 43, 44 
Leathers, effect of different oils and 

grease on. 390, 391 
Levant inks, 140 

Lime, action of, upon raw skins, 95, 96 
cleansing the stock of, 133, 134 
fresh, addition of, 6 
mixing of, with sulphide of so- 
dium, 91-94 
neutralizing of, in hides, skins and 

glue stock, 261, 262 
new, preparation of a, 5 

of, with red arsenic, 
88, 89 
rational method of neutralizing 

of, in hides and skins, 252 
removal of, from sheepskins, 82 
slaking of, 3 
swelling of, property of, 5 



Lime, use of red arsenic and sulphide of 
sodium in conjunc- 
tion with, 89 
in connection with, 
88, 89 
sulphide of sodium in con- 
nection with, 7 
washing out the, 46, 47 
Limes, gathering, 5 

preparation of, for calfskins, 270 
271, 316, 317 
Liming deerskins, 227 
goatskins, 88, 89 
heavy hides, 366-369 
kangaroo skins in arsenic limes, 

337, 338 
length of time required for, 6 
process, 5-8 

use of sulphide of sodium in r 
271-273 
Line, strap, belt, bag, case, lace, rus- 
set and harness leather, 411-415 
Linings, preparation of sheepskins for,. 
53 
tanning sheepskins with the wool 
on for, 57-68 
Liquors, testing the, for tanning 

strength, 412 
Logwood extract, 120 
liquor, 428 
paste, 120 
powder, 120 

McCONNELL, JAS. C, new meth- 
od for belt, shoe and leather 
laces, patented by, 173-175 
Mahogany shade on sheepskins, 30, 

31 
Manure bate, danger and uncertainty 
of, 97, 98 
efficacy of 96, 97 
preparation of, 97 
bating for calfskins, 277, 278 
drenching with, 11 
Manures, use of, as bate, 370 
Menthol, 177 
Middlings, 9 
Mineral oils, effect of, upon leather, 

390, 391 
Miscellaneous information, 416-430 
Mitten and glove leather, process for, 
405-408 
purposes, calfskins tan- 
ned for, 311-324 
Mittens, soft, tough leather for, 53, 54 
tanning of shearlings and sheep 
pelts for, 57-68 
Mochas, preparation of, for tanning, 
142, 143 



INDEX. 



443 



Mordant, extract of fustic as a, 126, 
127, 292 
palmetto extract as a, 127 
Mordants, 28 

Miiller, A., experiments of, 164 
Mulsine, fat-liquoring chrome leather 
with, 394, 395 
with, 391-394 

NAPA leather, black, coloring of, 
51 
buffing of, 51 
dull finish on, 51 
making of, 49, 50 
original process of mak- 
ing, 50 
Naphtha, treating leather with, 417 
Naphthaline sulphuric acids, bating 

with, 257, 258 
New XXX depilatory, methods of 
using, 241-247 
wool pulling with, 
13, 14 
Nigrosine, blue flesh with, 121, 122 
Norris' new solid bate, 256, 257 
Norris, W. N., improved process of 
chrome tanning pat- 
ented by, 199-202 
process of coloring goat- 
skins patented by, 122- 
124 



0ETTL1NGEB, WM., process of 
bating patented by, 255, 256 
Oil, drumming side leather in, 387 
horsehides tanned in, 408, 409 
processes, 323 
purification of, 417, 418 
-tanned calfskins, 320, 321 

sheep and lambskins, 46-48, 
49.50 
tanning, method of. 321, 322 
oils for, 321,322 
or chamoising, 167 
with Turkey-red oil, 410 
Oils and greases, effect of different, on 
leathers, 390, 391 
for oil tanning, 321, 322 
One-bath beamhouse process, 431, 432 
chrome liquors, tanning goat- 
skins with, 104, 
105 
tanning pickled 
sheepskins with, 
15,16 
tanning sheepskins 
with, in paddle 
vats, 23-25 
process, calfskin glove 
leather by a, 318 



One-bath chrome process patented by 

Jos. W. Smith, 216, 

217 

processes for kangaroo 

leather, 342-344 _ 

liquor, simple, preparation of, 

218 
liquors, advantage of, 208. 209 
handling of, in paddle vats, 
113 
process for calfskins, 280, 281 
method of tanning goatskins 

with, 107, 108 
of acid tanning, new, 22, 23 
processes of chrome-tanning, 

208-210 
tanning liquor known as chro- 
mine, 218-222 
process for grains, 384-386 
Oxalic acid, bleaching leather with, 

430 
Ox-blood, good shade of, 29, 30 
shades on calfskins, 293-294 

goatskins, 129, 130, 136, 

137 
sheepskins, 29, 30, 34, 35, 
76 



PADDLE-VATS, handling of one- 
bath-liquors in, 113 
tanning of sheepskins 
in, with one-bath 
chrome liquors, 23- 
25 
use of, for liming, 6 

goatskins, 
93, 94 
Palmetto extract, 297, 298 

as mordant, 127 

as substitute for gambier, 

144 
as tanning material, 374 
combination of, with 

quebracho, 71 
instructions regarding 

the use of, 401-403 
method of using, 69 
qualities of, 148 
retanning calfskins with, 
290, 291 
liquor, tanning sides in, 374, 375 
or gambier, retanning chrome 

leather with, 300, 301 
tannage, 297, 298 
-tanned leather, 413, 414 
treatment of kangaroo leather, 
347, 348 
Parker, H., Acme soap, patented by, 
423, 424 



444 



INDEX. 



Patna goatskins, 116 
Pelts, aluraed, best way to scour, 67, 68 
heating of, 2 
pulling the, 4 

removing the water from, 2 
Permanganate of potash, 40 

and bisulphite of 
soda, bleaching 
with, 68 
beneficial effects 
of, to chrome- 
tanned goat- 
skins, 122, 123 
bleaching with, 

354 
use of, in color- 
ing goat-leath- 
er, 122-124 
Phenol, 177 
Pickle for grains, 79 

sheepskins, composition of, 12 
good, 147 

preliminary for goatskins, 101,102 
Pickled skins, 1-14 

drenching of, 16, 17 
method of tanning, 20-22 
removing the acid from, 

15-17 
tanning of, in hemlock liq- 
uors, 80 
without drench- 
ing, 19, 20 
Pickling calfskins, 317, 318 

process, 12. 13 
Pierson and Moor process for treating 
skins and preparing them for leather, 
250, 251 
Pigeon dung, 96 

Pin-mill drum, drenching in a, 276 
Potash soft soap, 422 
Progress tan liquor, 221-223 
Pullman, J. and E. , process for pre- 
paring hides and skins for tanning 
patented by, 247-249 
Puring or bating of goatskins, 94, 95 
Putrefaction, danger of, 364, 365 

/YUEBRACHO and gambier combi- 

\J. nation, process of, for sides, 380, 

381 ^ 

and hemlock extracts, combina- 
tion of, 71, 411, 412 

combination of palmetto extract 
with, 71 

derivation of the name, 376 

extract, 376, 377 

gambier and hemlock tannages, 
298-300 

quality and use of, 375-378 



RED arsenic and sulphide of sodium, 
advantages of using, 317 
and sulphide of sodium, 
use of, in conjunction 
with lime, 89 
for goatskins, 133 
limes. 145, 146 
use of, in connection with 
lime, 89, 89 
Retanning chrome leather with gam- 
bier or palmetto, 300, 301 
hides with the hair on, 332, 333 
with gambier or palmetto, 378-380 
Kobes, process for hairskins and hides 
for, 327-329 
tanning hides for, 329, 330 
Rugs, tanning shearlings and sheep 

pelts for, 57-68 
Russia coltskins for shoe purposes, col- 
oring the flesh of, yel- 
low, 403 
tanning of, 401 
leather, fat liquor for, 394 
Russet, harness, line, strap, belt, bag, 
case and lace leather, 411-415 
bleaching of, 429, 430 

SADTLER, Sam'l P. , reduction with 
hydrogen dioxide patented by, 
202-205 
Salicylic acid, 177 

Salt and alum, clearing leather with, 
428 
excessive quantities of, 118 
injurious effect of, 267 
use of, in the tanning liquor, 112, 
113 
Satin leather. 264 

Saxe, S. , process for the use of lactic 
acid in plumping and tanning 
leather, patented by, 426, 427 
Schlegel. H. , process of bating, pat- 
ented by, 262, 263 
Schultz, process patented by, 196, 197 
two-bath process, original, prac- 
tical application of, 193-196 
Seal brown on wool , 67, 68 
Seasoning for bJack leather, 140 
calfskins, 289, 290 
colored leather, 141 
Seasonings, 140 

for kangaroo leather, 352 
Shearlings, tanning of, 57-68 
Sheep leather, bark-tanned, dyeing of, 
black, 77 
black. 155, 156 

chrome-tanned, trou- 
ble with, and pre- 
vention, 39, 40 



INDEX. 



445 



Sheep leather, cause of defect, 39 

clearing the grain of, 156 
drumming of, in warm su- 
mac liquor, 75, 76 
finishing of, 74, 75, 153 
heating of, 47 
very light and fancy shades 
on, 156 
leathers, chrome-tanned, manu- 
facture of, 15-40 
pelts, bleaching of, 68 

removal of grease from, 64 
soaking of, 144, 145 
tanning of, 57-68 
with the wool on, cheap and 
simple method of prepar- 
ing, 60-63 
with the wool on, tanning of, 
59, 60 
Sheepskin fleshers. process of tanning, 

54, 55, 56 
Sheepskins, 1-14, 41-56 

alum, oil and napa processes for, 
41-56 
-tanned, to bleach the wool 

on, 64 
-tawing processes for, 41-46 
amount of drenching required by, 

10, 11 
and goatskins, dongolaand India- 
tanned, 144- 
158 
tanned, 144-153 
and lambskins, method of tawing, 
into very soft, strong 
glove leather. 44, 45 
oil-tanned. 46-48 
use of Turkey-red oil in 
tanning of, into glove 
leather, 45 
very soft, tough glove 
leather from, 48 • 
applying the dye to, 74, 75 
bark and extract tannages for, 69 
tanned, good black 
on, 77 _ 
extract and chamois tanning 
m of, 69-85 
burning of; by unslacked lime, 7 
chamois leather from, 82 
chrome-tanned, aniline dyes for, 
32-35 
finishing of. into glove 

leather, 28 
mordanting of, 40 
very practical method 
of preparing, with 
sumac, 31, 32 
clearing the grain of, 151 



Sheepskins, colored chrome-tanned, 
glazing of, 35, 36 
coloring of, 28-31 
combination tannage for, 70 
common method of chrome-tan- 
ning, 17-19 
desirable shades for, 76 
dongola liquor for, 148 
drenching of, 8-12, 146, 147 
dull finish on, 70 
fat-liquoring of, 150, 151 
fat liquors for, 31 
finishing of, into black shoe leath- 
er, 36-38 
for dark shades, 73 
good glazing liquor for, 38 
heating of, 83 
imperfectlv-tanned, improvement 

of, 158 
India-tanned, coloring and finish- 
ing of, 153-158;;. 
preparation of, 154J 
liming process for, 5-8 
mahogany shade on, 30, 31 
modified form of calf-kid tawing 

for, 43, 44 
most commonly used two-bath 

process of tanning for, 25-27 
napa tannage for, 49, 50 
new one-bath process of acid tan- 
ning for, 22, 23 
oiling of, 83 

ox-blood shades on. 29, 30, 34, 35 
pickled, combination process of 
alum and chrome for, 45, 
46 
drenching of, 16, 17 
method of tanning, 20-22 
neutralizing the acid in, 50 
removal of acids from, 15-17, 

41 
tanning of, in bark or extract 
liquors, 69 
of. with one-bath chrome 

liquors, 15-16 
of. without drenching, 19, 
20 
pickling of, 12 

preparation of, for chrome-tan- 
ning. 15 
of for limings, bindings, and 

similar purposes. 53 

of, for tanning, 145. 146 

process of two-bath tanning for, 

27, 28 
removal of lime from, 82 

of grease from, 8, 15, 41 

retanning of, with alum, salt and 

gambier liquor, 155 



446 



INDEX. 



Sheepskins, retanning of, with sumac, 
154, 155 
soaking of, 1, 2 
splitting of, 78 

sorting of, before coloring, 74 
sumac-tanned, coloring of, 80, 81 
tan shades on, 34, 35 
tanning of, in two-bath processes, 
25-28 
with one-bath chrome liq- 
uors, in paddle vats, 23- 
25 
to produce quickly and cheaply, 
a soft, tough leather from, 53, 
54 
treatment of, after pulling, 4 
of, after tanning. 82-84 
use of lactic acid in coloring, 73, 

74 
various shades of brown and tan 

on, 30 
vegetable tanned, coloring and 

finishing of, 71,72 
with wool on, very satisfactory 
method of tanning, 66, 67 
Shoe laces, new method for, 173-175 
leather, black, finishing skins 
into, 36-38 
coloring, fat-liquoring and 
finishing of hemlock, gam- 
bier, palmetto, quebracho 
and combination-tanned 
sides into, 387-396 
horse hide, 401-403 
purposes, side leathers for, and 
methods of tanning them, 372- 
386 
tops, leather for, 185- 187 
Side glove leather, chrome-tanned, 
395, 396 
leather, chrome-tanned, 382-384 
drumming of, in oil, 387 
fat-liquoring of, 388, 389 
leathers, coloring the flesh of, 
389, 390 
fat-liquors for, 390 
for shoe purposes and methods 
of tanning them, 372-386 
Sides, coloring, fat-liquoring and fin- 
ishing of hemlock, gambier, 
palmetto, quebracho and com- 
bination-tanned, into shoe 
leather, 387-396 
tanning of, by suspension, 379, 380 
in palmetto liquor, 374, 
375 
Skin preserver, good, 147 
Skins and hides, process for preparing, 
for tanning, 247-249 



Skins and hides, rational method of 
neutralizing lime in, 
252 
tanning of, so as to pre- 
vent them from becom- 
ing hard, 183, 184 
cracking and breaking of, during 

the finishing processes, 6 
flanky, 116 

from which the grain has been 
removed after liming, prepara- 
tion of, for tanning, 142, 143 
imperfectly tanned, improvement 

of, 158 
India-tanned, coloring and finish- 
ing of, 153-158 
mistreatment of, in the beam- 
house, 118 
neutralizing lime in, 261, 262 
pickled, 1-14 

Pierson and Moor process for pre- 
paring, 250, 251 
preparation of a liquor for tan- 
ning, 225, 226 
removal of natural grease from,416 
sorting of, 112 
tanning of, in drums, 113 
treatment of, with a liquor com- 
posed of whiting, salt, chrome, 
alum, saltpetre and muriatic 
acid, 216 
Skirting leather, bleaching of, 429, 430 
Skiver, definition of, 78 
Skivers, 78-80 

drench for, 78, 79 
finishing of, 81 
good process of tanning, 81 
use of, 78 

various materials used in tanning, 
79, 80 
S. K. solution. 22, 23 
Slat, opening the, 4 
Slats, swelling or plumping of, 5 
Slunks, 266 
Smith, Jos., W. , one-bath chrome 

process patented by, 216, 217 
Soaking calfskins, 266-269 
hides. 360-362 
process, relations between, and 

subsequent processes, 1 
sheepskins, 1, 2 
too much, effects of, 1,2 
Soap, Acme, 423, 424 

and oil tannage, 49, 50 
good, formula for, 422 
receipts, 420-423 
solutions, aqueous, 423 
wool-washing, 65, 66 
Sod oil, 321 



INDEX. 



447 



Softening and blacking compositions, 
423-425 
composition, 424 
kangaroo skins, 335, 336 
Sole leather, hemlock-tanned, bleach- 
ing of, 357, 358 
to put weight into, 426 _ 
Splits, palmetto extract for retanning, 

373 
Stain, 283, 284 . 

Staining, fat-liquoring and 'dyeing 
calfskins, practice in, 284, /»D 
liquor, 283 
Strap, belt, bag, case, lace, russet, har- 
ness and line leather, 411-415 
Strikers, receipts for, 37, 38, 77, 15^, 

287, 288, 307, 345 
Striking out goatskins, 139 
Stuffing mixture, 174, 180 _ 
Sugar of lead and sulphuric acid, 

bleaching with, 353, 354 
.Sulfamine dyed sheepskins, 35 

dyes, coloring chrome-tanned 
goatskins with, 135-137 
for coloring calfskins, 294, 295 
practical working directions 
getting desirable shades 
with, 135-137 
Sulfonic acids of the cresols, 252 
Sulphate of alumina, tawing deer- 
skins with, 231, 232 
of iron, reduction with, 205, 20b 
■Sulphide of sodium and lime, apply- 
ing the, 3, 4 _ 
and red arsenic, ad- 
vantages of using, 
317 
and red arsenic, use of, 
in conjunction with 
lime, 89 
common method of 

using, 2 
liquor, strength of, 3 
mixing lime with, 

91-94 
use of, in connection 
with lime, 7 
in liming, 271- 

273 
in soaking, 268 
upon horse- 
hides, 398 
various methods of 

using. 90, 91 
wool-pulling with, 2-4 
Sulpho-compounds, or their mixture 
with fats and oils, use of, in tan- 
ning, 164-166 
.Sulpholeates, production ot, lbo 
use of in tanning, 165, 166 



Sulphuric acid and sumac, bleaching 

leather with, 429, 430 
Sumac and sulphuric acid, bleaching 
leather with, 429, 430 
hot bath, treatment of goatskins 

in, 118 
liquor, 39 

warm, drumming sheep 
leather in, 75, 76 
retanning calfskins with, 291, 292 

with, 154, 155 
tanned skins, coloring of, 80, 81 
treatment of kangaroo leather, 347 
use of in coloring chrome-tanned 

goatskins, 125 
very practical method of prepar- 
ing chrome-tanned sheepskins 
with, 31, 32 
Sykes, W. F., process of coloring 

leather patented by, 418-420 
S. Z. solution, 22, 23, 110 



TAN and brown, various shades of, 
on sheepskins, 30 
liquor, old sour, use of. 9 
shades, light, on calfskins, 294- 
on goatskins, 136 
on goatskins, 124, 131 
sheepskins, 34, 35 
Tans, dark, on goatskins, 135, 136 
Tannage, palmetto, 297, 298 
Tannages, hemlock, quebracho, and 

gambler, 298-300 
Tannery and beamhouse, relations be- 
tween the processes of the, and the 
coloring process, 132 
Tanning and tawing, patented pro- 
cesses of, 159-226 
calfskins, simple method of, 315 
composition, antiseptic, 176-179 
of matter in connection with, 
182, 183 
French process of, 171, 172 
furs and hairskins, 325-334 
hides for robes, coats, etc., 329, 

330 
liquors, strength of, 382 
methods of, for side leathers for 

shoe purposes, 372-386 
preparing heavy hides for, 360- 

371 
rapid, patented process of, 1/9- 

181 . - . 

skivers, various materials used in, 
79,80 
Tanolin, 210-213 
Tartar emetic. 128 

and antimonine, preparation 
of skins by the use of, 309, 
310 



448 



INDEX. 



Tawing and tanning, patented pro- 
cesses of, 159-226 
calfkid, modified form of, 43, 44 
deerskins with sulphate of 

alumina, 231, 232 
in vats, 43 
method of, for making chrome 

leather, 206, 207 
preparation of good goat leather 
by, 106, 107 
of kid glove leather by, 142 
solution for, 41 

white, process. of, recently pat- 
ented in Germany, 43 
Tobacco brown on goatskins, 131 
Turkey-red oil solution for the pro- 
duction of chamois leather, 
84,85 
oil, oil-tanning with, 416 
oil, use of, for tanning sheep 

and lambskins, 45 
oils, alum-tanning with, 166 
use of, in tanning, 164-166 
or alizarine oils, 156, 157 
Two-bath chrome tanning, new pro- 
cess of, 103, 104 
process, original, for goatskins, 
101-103 
Schultz, practical 
application of, 
193-196 
tanning calfskins with the, 
279, 280 
processes for tanning deerskins, 
235, 236 
nicety of proportions required 

by, 113 
tanning sheepskins in, 25-28 
tanning, a process of, 27, 28 
most commonly used process 
of, 25-27 



TTRSOL dyes, dyeing with, 333, 334 



VACROME, 223-225 
Vamps, leather for, 185-187 
Veal kips, 266 
skins, 266 



Vegetable-tanned sheepskins., coloring 
and finishing of, 71, 72. 
stock, aniline dyes on„ 
310 

WARTER, A., and Koegel, H. C.,. 
process of alum tawing pat- 
ented by, 167-169 
Water, hard, effect of, on colors, 134 
of the use of, 72 
preventing the evil effects 

of, 72 
softening of, 134, 135 
quality of, used in the coloring 
process, 134, 135 
Wax calf. 264 

Whip and baseball-cover leather, 399, 
400 
lace leather, tanning compo- 
sition for, 415 
White leather, very soft and tough, 

preparation of, 43, 44 
White tawing, process of, recently in- 
vented in Germany, 43 
Whites, prevention of, 163 
Wilson, N. , process of bating patented 

by, 254, 255 
Wine color, dark, on calfskins, 293, 294 
Wool on alum-tanned sheepskins, 
bleaching of, 64 
pulling, 1-14 

sweating process for, 14 
treatment of the skins after, 4 
with new XXX depilatory, 
13, 14 
sulphide of sodium, 2-4 
seal-brown on, 67, 68 
-washing soap, 65, 66 
Woolskins, 57-68 

cheap process of tanning, 64, 65 
coloring of, 52 
tanning solution for, 58, 59 
white, tannage for, 62 

YELLOW calfskin glove leather, 
323, 324 
chrome-tanned glove leather, 35 
flesh, 305, 306 
glove leather, 30 
ochre, 322 



CAnrA-xoa-TnE 

OF 

practical and Scientific Boo^ 

PUBLISHED BY 

Henry Carey Baird & Co. 

INDUSTRIAL PUBLISHERS, BOOKSELLERS AND IMPORTERS. 

810 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. 



*®" Any of the Books comprised in this Catalogue will he sent by mail, free of 

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*S~ A Descriptive Catalogue, 90 pages, 8vo,, will be sent free and free of postage, 
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AMATEUR MECHANICS' WORKSHOP: 

A treatise containing plain and concise directions for the manipula- 
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Soldering and Carpentry. By the author of the " Lathe and Its 
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ANDES.— Animal Fats and Oils: 

Their Practical Production.. Purification and Uses; their Properties, 
Falsification and Examination. 62 illustrations. 8vo. 

ANDES.— Vegetable Fats and Oils : 

Their Practical Preparation, Purification and Employment; their 
Properties, Adulteration and Examination. 94 illustrations. 8vo. 

ARLOT.— A Complete Guide for Coach Painters : 

Translated from the French o r M. Arlot, Coach Painter, for 
eleven years Foreman of Pairing to M. Eherler, Coach Maker, 
Paris. By A. A. Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. To which is 
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and the Practice of Coach and Car Painting s.,id Varnishing in the 
United States and Great Britain J2mo. . . . #1.25 



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&RMENGAUD, AMOROUX, AND JOHNSON.— The Practi- 
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Forming a Complete Course of Mechanical Engineering and Archi- 
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MM. Armengaud the younger, and Amoroux, Civil Engineers. Re- 
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and examples of the most useful and generally employed mechanism 
of the day. By William Johnson, Assoc. Inst. C. E. Illustrated 
by fifty folio steel plates, and fifty wood-cuts. A new edition, 410,, 

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ARMSTRONG. — The Construction and Management of Steam 
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By R. Armstrong, C. E. With an Appendix by Robert Mallet, 
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ARROWSMITH.— Paper-Hanger's Companion : 

A Treatise in which the Practical Operations of the Trade are 
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ASHTON. — The Theory and Practice of the Art of Designing 
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Giving full instructions for reducing drafts, as well as the methods of 
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One vol. folio ' . . #5-°° 

A.SKINSON. — Perfumes and their Preparation : 

A Comprehensive Treatise on Perfumery, containing Complete 
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the Mouth, the Hair; Cosmetics', Hair Dyes, and other Toilet 
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BRONGNIART. — Coloring and Decoration of Ceramic Ware. 
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BAIRD. — Standard Wages Computing Tables : 

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BARR. — A Practical Treatise on High Pressure Steam Boilers : 
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BAUERMAN.— A Treatise on the Metallurgy of Iron: 
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BRANNT.— The Metallic Alloys: A Practical Guide 

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I2mo ij.a, 



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BELL. — Carpentry Made Easy: 

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BIRD. — The American Practical Dyers' Companion : 
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BLINN.— A Practical Workshop Companion for Tin, Sheet- 
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BOOTH.— Marble Worker's Manual: 

Containing Practical Information respecting Marbles in general, theii 
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BOOTH and MORFIT.— The Encyclopaedia of Chemistry, 
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BRAM WELL.— The Wool Carder's Vade-Mecum * 

A Complete Manual of the Art of Carding Textile Fabrics. By W. 
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BRANNT.— A Practical Treatise on Animal and Vegetable 
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BRANNT.— A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Soap 
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Based upon the most Recent Experiences in the Practice and Science ; 
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and Various Processes of Manufacture, including a great variety of 
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BRANNT.— India Rubber, Gutta Percha and Balata : 

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tBROWN. — Five Hundred and Seven Mechanical Movements: 
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BUCKM ASTER.— The Elements of Mechanical Physics : 
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BULLOCK.— The American Cottage Builder : 
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BURGH. — Practical Rules for the Proportions of Modern 
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BYLES. — Sophisms of Free Trade and Popular Political 

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By a Barrister (Sir John Barnard Byles, Judge of Common 

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BOWMAN.— The Structure of the Wool Fibre in its Relation 
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Being the substance, with additions, of Five Lectures, delivered at 
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BYRNE. — Hand-Book for the Artisan, Mechanic, and Engi- 
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Comprising the Grinding and Sharpening of Cutting Tools, Abia^ve 
Processes, Lapidary Work, Gem and Glass Engraving, Varnishing 
and Lackering, Apparatus, Materials and Processes for Grinding and 



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CALLINGHAM.— Sign Writing and Glass Embossing: 

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used for Smoke Prevention ; with a Chapter on Explosions. By R. 
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CAREY. — A Memoir of Henry C. Carey. 

By Dr. Wm. Elder. With a portrait. 8vo., cloth . . 75 

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Harmony of Interests : Agricultural, Manufacturing and Commer- 
cial. 8vo. ..... . . $1.25 

Manual of Social Science. Condensed from Carey's " Principles 
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Past, Present and Future. 8vo $2,501 

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The Unity of Law : As Exhibited in the Relations of Physical, 
Social, Mental and Moral Science (1872). 8vo. . . $2.50 

CLARK. — Tramways, their Construction and Working : 

Embracing a Comprehensive History of the System. With an ex- 
haustive analysis of the various modes of traction, including horse- 
power, steam, heated water and compressed air; a description of the 
varieties of Rolling stock, and ample details of cost and working ex- 
penses. By D. Kinnear Clark. Illustrated by over 200 wood 
engravings, and thirteen folding plates. 1 vol. 8vo. . $7.50 

COLBURN.— The Locomotive Engine : 

Including a Description of its Structure, Rules for Estimating its 
Capabilities, and Practical Observations on its Construction and Man- 
agement. By Zerah Colburn. Illustrated. i2mo. . $1.00 

COLLENS.— The Eden of Labor; or, the Christian Utopia. 
By T. Wharton Collens, author,of " Humanics," " The Historj 
of Charity," etc. i2mo. Paper cover, $1.00 ; Cloth . $1.25 

COOLEY. — A Complete Practical Treatise on Perfumery : 
Being a Hand-book of Perfumes, Cosmetics and other Toilet Articlet 
With a Comprehensive Collection of Formulae. By Arnold J, 
Cooley. i2mo $1.50 

COOPER. — A Treatise on the use of Belting for the Trans- 
mission of Power. 
With numerous illustrations of approved and actual methods of ar- 
ranging Main Driving and Quarter Twist Belts, and of Relt Fasten 
ings. Examples and Rules in great number for exhibiting and cal- 
culating the size and driving power of Belts. Plain, Particular and 
Practical Directions for the Treatment, Care and Manigement o r 
Belts. Descriptions of many varieties of Beltings, together with 
chapters on the Transmission of Power by Ropes; by Iron and 
Wood Frictional Gearing; on the Strength of Belting Leather; and 
on the Experimental Investigations of Morin, Briggs, and others. Bf 
John H. Cooper, M. E. 8vo $3.50 

CRAIK. — The Practical American Millwright and MUler. 
By David Craik, Millwright. Illustrated by numerous wood en- 
gravings and two folding plates. 8vo. .... (Scarce.) 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. £ 

CROSS.— The Cotton Yarn Spinner : 

Showing how the Preparation should be arranged for Different 
Counts of Yarns by a System more uniform than has hitherto been 
practiced ; by having a Standard Schedule from which we make all 
our Changes. By Richard Cross. 122 pp. i2mo. . 75 

CRISTIANI.— A Technical Treatise on Soap and Candles: 

"With a Glance at the Industry of Fats and Oils. By R. S. Cris- 
tiani, Chemist. Author of " Perfumery and Kindred Arts." Illus- 
trated by 176 engravings. 581 pages, 8vo. $15.00 

COURTNEY.— The Boiler Maker's Assistant in Drawing, 
Templating, and Calculating Boiler Work and Tank 
Work, etc. 
Revised by D. K. Clark. 102 ills. Fifth edition. . . 80 
COURTNEY.— The Boiler Maker's Ready RecKoner: 

With Examples of Practical Geometry and Templating. Revised by 
D. K. Clark, C. E. 37 illustrations. Fifth edition. • $1.60 

DAVIDSON.— A Practical Manual of House Painting, Grain- 
ing, Marbling, and Sign- Writing: 
Containing full information on the processes of House Painting in 
Oil and Distemper, the Formation of Letters and Practice of Sign- 
Writing, the Principles of Decorative Art, a Course of Elementary 
Drawing for House Painters, Writers, etc., and a Collection of Useful 
Receipts. With nine colored illustrations of Woods and Marbles, 
and numerous wood engravings. By Ellis A, Davidson. i2mo. 

$2.00 

DAVIES. — A Treatise on Earthy and Other Minerals and 

Mining: 
By D. C. Davies, F. G. S., Mining Engineer, etc. Illustrated by 
76 Engravings. l2mo. ...... . $5.00 

DAVIES. — A Treatise on Metalliferous Minerals and Mining: 
By D. C. Davies, F. G. S , Mining Engineer, Examiner of Mines, 
Quarries and Collieries. Illustrated by 148 engravings of Geological 
Formations, Mining Operations and Machinery, drawn from the 
practice of all parts of the world. Fifth Edition, thoroughly Revised 
and much Enlarged by his son, E. Henry Davies. l2mo., 524 
pages . $5.00 

DAVIES. — A Treatise on Slate and Slate Quarrying: 

Scientific, Practical and Commercial. By D. C. Davies, F. G. S., 
Mining Engineer, etc. With numerous illustrations and folding 
plates. J2mo. ........ $1.20 

DAVIS, — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Brick, 

Tiles and Terra-Cotta : 

Including Stiff Clay, Dry Clay, Hand Made, Pressed or Front, and 

Roadway Paving Brick, Enamelled Brick, with Glazes and Colors, 

Fire Brick and Blocks. Silica Brick, Carbon Brick, Glass Pots, Re- 



io HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGS. 



torts, Architectural Terra-Cotti, Sewer Pipe, Drain Tile, Glazed and 
Unglazed Roofing Tile, Art Tile, Mosaics, and Imitation of Intarsia 
or Inlaid Surfaces. Comprising every product of Clay employed in 
Architecture, Engineering, and the Blast Furnace. With a Detailed 
Description of the Different Clays employed, the Most Modern 
Machinery, Tpols, and Kilns used, and the Processes for Handling, 
Disintegrating, Tempering, and Moulding the Clay into Shape, Dry- 
ing, Setting, and Burning. By Charles Thomas Davis. Third Edi- 
tion. Revised and in great part rewritten. Illustrated by 261 
engravings. 662 pages ....... $5-°° 

DAVIS. — A Treatise on Steam-Boiler Incrustation and Meth- 
ods for Preventing Corrosion and the Formation of Scale: 
By Charles T. Davis. Illustrated by 65 engravings. 8vo. 
DAVIS. — The Manufacture of Paper: 

Being a Description of the various Processes for the Fabrication, 
Coloring and Finishing of every kind of Paper, Including the Dif- 
ferent Raw Materials and the Methods for Determining their Values, 
the Tools, Machines and Practical Details connected with an intelli- 
gent and a profitable prosecution of the art, with special reference to 
the best American Practice. To which are added a History of Pa- 
per, complete Lists of Paper-Making Materials, List of American 
Machines, Tools and Processes used in treating the Raw Materials, 
and in Making, Coloring and Finishing Paper. By Charles T. 
Davis. Illustrated by 156 engravings. 608 pages, 8vo. $6.00 

DAVIS. — The Manufacture of Leather: 

Being a Description of all the Processes for the Tanning and Tawing 
with Bark, Extracts, Chrome and all Modern Tannages in General 
Use, and the Currying, Finishing and Dyeing of Every Kind of Leather; 
Including the Various Raw Materials, the Tools, Machines, and all 
Details of Importance Connected with an Intelligent and Profitable 
Prosecution of the Art, with Special Reference to the Best American 
Practice. To which are added Lists of American Patents ( 1 884-1897) 
for Materials, Processes, Tools and Machines for Tanning, Currying, 
etc. By Charles Thomas Davis. Second Edition, Revised, and 
in great part Rewritten. Illustrated by 147 engravings and 14 Sam- 
ples of Quebracho Tanned and Aniline Dyed Leathers. 8vo, cloth, 

712 pages. Price $7-5° 

DAWIDOWSKY— BRANNT.— A Practical Treatise on the 

Raw Materials and Fabrication of Glue, Gelatine, Gelatine 

Veneers and Foils, Isinglass, Cements, Pastes, Mucilages, 

etc. : 

Based upon Actual Experience. By F. Dawidowsky, Technical 

Chemist. Translated from the German, with extensive additions, 

including a description of the most Recent American Processes, by 

William T. Brannt, Graduate of the Royal Agricultural College 

of Eldena, Prussia. 35 Engravings. l2mo. . . . $2.50 

DE GRAFF. — The Geometrical Stair-Builders' Guide: 

feeing a Plain Practical System of Hand-Railing, embracing all its 

necessary Details/and Geometrically Illustrated by twenty-two Steel 

Engravings ; together with the use of the most approved principle? 

nf Practical Geometry. By Simon De Graff, Architect. (Scarce.) 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & GO.'S CATALOGUE. n 

DE KONINCK— DIETZ.— A Practical Manual of Chemical 
Analysis and Assaying : 
As applied to the Manufacture of Iron from its Ores, and to Cast Iron, 
Wrought Iron, and Steel, as found in Commerce. By L. L. De 
Koninck, Dr. Sc, and E. Dietz, Engineer. Edited with Notes, by 
Robert Mallet, F. R. S., F. S. G., M. I. C. E., etc. American 
Edition, Edited with Notes and an Appendix on Iron Ores, by A. A. 
Fesquet, Chemist and Engineer. i2mo. . . . $i-$Q 

DUNCAN.— Practical Surveyor's Guide: 

Containing the necessary information to make any person of corm 
mon capacity, a finished land surveyor without the aid of a teacher 
By Andrew Duncan. Revised. 72 engravings, 214pp. i2mo. #1.50 

DUPLAIS. — A Treatise on the Manufacture and Distillation 
of Alcoholic Liquors : 
Comprising Accurate and Complete Details in Regard to Alcohol 
from Wine, Molasses, Beets, Grain, Rice, Potatoes, Sorghum, Asphc. 
del. Fruits, etc. ; with the Distillation and Rectification of Brandy 
Whiskey, Rum, Gin, Swiss Absinthe, etc., the Preparation of Aro- 
matic Waters, Volatile Oils or Essences, Sugars, Syrups, Aromatic 
Tinctures, Liqueurs, Cordial Wines, Effervescing Wines, etc., the 
Ageing of Brandy and the improvement of Spirits, with Copious 
Directions and Tables for Testing and Reducing Spirituous Liquors, 
etc* etc. Translated and Edited from the French of MM. Duplais, 
By M. McKennie, M. D. Illustrated 743 pp. 8vo. $15.00 

DYER AND COLOR-MAKER'S COMPANION : 

Containing upwards of two hundred Receipts for making Colors, on 
the most approved principles, for all the various styles and fabrics now 
in evistence ; with the Scouring Process, and plain Directions for 
Preparing, Washing-off, and Finishing the Goods. l2mo. $1 OO 

EIDHERR.— The Techno-Chemical Guide to Distillation: 
A Hand-Book for the Manufacture of Alcohol and Alcoholic Liquors, 
including the Preparation of Malt and Compressed Yeast. Edited 
from the German of Ed. Eidherr. Fully illustrated. (In preparation.) 

EDWARDS. — A Catechism of the Marine Steam-Engine, 
For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Mechanics. A Practical 
Work for Practical Men. By Emory Edwards, Mechanical Engi- 
neer. Illustrated by sixty-three Engravings^ including examples of 
the most modern Engines. Third edition, thoroughly revised, with 
much additional matter. l2mo. 414 pages . . . $2 oc 

ED^VARDS. — Modern American Locomotive Engines, 
Their Design, Construction and Management. By EMORY EDWARDSt, 
Illustrated i2mo '. . . . $2.0O 

EDWARDS.— The American Steam Engineer: 

Theoretical and Practical, with examples of the latest and most ap- 
proved American practice in the design and construction of Steam 
Engines and Boilers. For the use of engineers, machinists, boiler- 
makers, and engineering students. By Emory Edwards. Fully 
illustrated, 419 pages. i2mo. .... $2.50 



12 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

EDWARDS. — Modern American Marine Engines, Boilers, anc 
Screw Propellers, 

Their Design and Construction. Showing the .Present Practice ot 
the most Eminent Engineers and Marine Engine Builders in the 
United States. Illustrated by 30 large and elaborate plates. 4to. $5-OC 
EDWARDS.— The Practical Steam Engineer's Guide 

In the Design, Construction, and Management of American Stationary, 
Portable, and Steam Fire- Engines, Steam Pumps, Boilers, Injectors, 
Governors, Indicators, Pistons and Rings, Safety Valves and Steam 
Gauges. For the use of Engineers, Firemen, and Steam Users. By 
Emory Edwards. Illustrated by 119 engravings. J.20 pages. 
i2mo. . . . . . . . . . . $2 50 

EISSLER.— The Metallurgy of Gold : 
A Practical Treatise 011 the Metallurgical Treatment of Gold-Bear- 
ing Ores, including the Processes of Concentration and Chlorination, 
and the Assaying, Melting, and Refining of Gold. By M. Eissler. 

With 132 Illustrations. l2mo. $7-50 

EISSLER.— The Metallurgy of Silver : 

A Practical Treatise on the Amalgamation, Roasting, and Lixiviation 
of Silver Ores, including the Assaying, Melting, and Refining of. 
Silver Bullion. By M. Eissler. 124 Illustrations. 336 pp. 

l2mo $4.25 

ELDER. — Conversations on the Principal Subjects of Political 
Economy. 

By Dr. William Elder. 8vo $2.50 

ELDER. — Questions of the Day, 

Economic and Social. By Dr. William Elder. 8vo. . #3.00 
ERNI AND BROWN.— Mineralogy Simplified. 

Easy Methods of Identifying Minerals, including Ores, by Means of 
the Blow-pipe, by Flame Reactions, by Humid Chemical Analysis, 
and by Physical Tests. By Henri Erni, A. M., M. D. Third Edi- 
tion, revised, re-arranged and with the addition of entirely new matter, 
including Tables for the Determination of Minerals by Chemical and 
Pyrognostic Characters, and by Physical Characters. By Amos P. 
Brown, E. M., Ph. D. 350 pp., illustrated by 96 engravings, pocket- 
book form, full flexible morocco, gilt edges . . . #2.50 
FAIRBAIRN. — The Principles of Mechanism and Machinery 
of Transmission ■ 
Comprising the Principles of Mechanism, W 7 heels, and Pullevs. 
Strength and Proportions of Shafts, Coupling of Shafts, and Engag 
ing and Disengaging Gear. By Sir William Fairbairn, Bart 
C. E. Beautifully illustrated by over 150 wood-cuts. In one 

volume, i2mo $2.00 

FLEMING. — Narrow Gauge Railways in America. 
A Sketch of their Rise, Progress, and Success. Valuable Statistics 
as to Grades, Curves, Weight of Rail, Locomotives, Cars, etc. By 

Howard Fleming. Illustrated, 8vo $1 00 

FORSYTH.— Book of Designs for Headstones. Mural, and 
other Monuments: 
Containing 78 Designs. By James Forsyth. With an Introduction 
Uy Charles Boutell, M.. A. 4. to., cLoth -•_ • $3-5o 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 13 



FRANKEL- HUTTER.— A Practical Treatise on the Manu- 
facture of Starch, Glucose, Starch-Sugar, and Dextrine: 
Based on the German of Ladislaus Von Wagner, Professor in the 
Royal Technical High School, Buda-Pest, Hungary, and other 
authorities. By Julius Frankel, Graduate of the Polytechnic 
School of Hanover. Edited by Robert Hutter, Chemist, Practical 
Manufacturer of Starch-Sugar. Illustrated by 58 engravings, cover- 
ing every branch of the subject, including examples of the most 
Recent and Best American Machinery. 8vo., 344 Dp. . S^.^o 

GARDNER.— The Painter's Encyclopaedia: 
Containing Definitions of all Important Words in the Art of Plain 
and Artistic Painting, with Details of Practice in Coach, Carriage, 
Railway Car, House, Sign, and Ornamental Painting, including 
Graining, Marbling, Staining, Varnishing, Polishing, Lettering, 
Stenciling, Gilding, Bronzing, etc. By Franklin B.' Gardner! 
158 Illustrations. i2mo. 427 pp. ..... $2.00 

GARDNER.— Everybody's Paint Book : 

A Complete Guide to the Art of Outdoor and Indoor Painting. 38 
illustrations £2mo, 183 pp. ...... $1.00 

GEE. — The Jeweller's Assistant in the Art of Working in 
Gold: 
A Practical Treatise for Masters and Workmen. 121110. . #3.00 
GEE.— The Goldsmith's Handbook : 

Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Gold, 
including the Art of Alloying, Melting, Reducing, Coloring, Col- 
lecting, and Refining; the Processes of Manipulation, Recovery of 
Waste; Chemical and Physical Properties of Gold; with a New 
System of Mixing its Alloys; Solders, Enamels, and other Useful 
Rules and Recipes. By George E. Gee. i2mo. „ . #1.25 
GEE.— The Silversmith's Handbook : 

Containing full instructions for the Alloying and Working of Silver, 
including the different modes of Refining and Melting the Metal; its 
Solders ; the Preparation of Imitation Alloys ; Methods of Manipula- 
tion ; Prevention of Waste ; Instructions for Improving and Finishing 
the Surface of the Work ; together with other Useful Information and 
Memoranda. By George E. Gee. Illustrated. i2mo. Si. 25 

GOTHIC ALBUM FOR CABINET-MAKERS: 

Designs for Gothic Furniture. Twenty-three plates. Oblong $1.50 
jRANT. — A Handbook on the Teeth of Gears : 
Their Curves, Properties, and Practical Construction. By George 
B. Grant. Illustrated. Third Edition, enlarged. 8vo. #1.00 

GREENWOOD.— Steel and Iron: 
Comprising the Practice and Theory of the Several Methods Pur- 
sued in their Manufacture, and of their Treatment in the Rolling- 
Mills, the Forge, and the Foundry. By William Henry Green- 
WOOD, F. C. S. With 97 Diagrams, 536 pages. i2mo. #1.75 



14 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE 



GREGORY. — Mathematics for Practical Men : 

Adapted to the Pursuits of Surveyors, Architects, Mechanics, and 
Civil Engineers. By Olinthus Gregory. 8vo., plates #3.00, 

GRISWOLD. — Railroad Engineer's Pocket Companion for tht 
Field : 
Comprising Rules for Calculating Deflection Distances and Angles, 
Tangential Distances and Angles, and all Necessary Tables for En 
gineers; also the Art of Levelling from Preliminary Survey to the 
Construction of Railroads, intended Expressly for the Young En- 
gineer, together with Numerous Valuable Rules and Examples. By 
W. Griswolu. i2mo., tucks #1-5° 

GRUNER. — Studies of Blast Furnace Phenomena: 

By M. L. Gruner, President of the General Council of Mines oS 
France, and lately Professor of Metallurgy at the Ecole des Mines. 
Translated, with the author's sanction, with an Appendix, by L. D, 
B. Gordon, F. R. S. E., F. G. S. 8vo. . . . #2.50 

Hand-Book of Useful Tables for the Lumberman, Farmer and 
Mechanic : 
Containing Accurate Tables of Logs Reduced to Inch Board Meas. 
ure, Plank, Scantling and Timber Measure ; Wages and Rent, by 
"Week or Month; Capacity of Granaries, Bins and Cisterns; Land 
Measure, Interest Tables, with Directions for Finding the Interest on 
any sum at 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 per cent., and many other Useful Tables. 
32 mo., boards. 186 pages ....... .25 

HASERICK.— The Secrets of the Art of Dyeing Wool, Cottorij 
and Linen, 
Including Bleacrrag an4 Coloring Wool and Cotton Hosiery and 
Random Yarns. A Treatise based on Economy and Practice. By 
E. C. Haserick. Illustrated by 323 Dyed Patterns of the Yarnt 
or Fabrics. 8vo. ........ $5 ,0 ° 

HATS AND FELTING: 

A Practical Treatise on their Manufacture. By a Practical Hatief, 
Illustrated by Drawings of Machinery, etc. 8vo. . . $1.25 

HERMANN. — Painting on Glass and Porcelain, and Enamel 
Painting: 
A Complete Introduction to the Preparation of all the Colors and 
Fluxes Used for Painting on Glass, Porcelain, Enamel, Faience and 
Stoneware, the Color Pastes and Colored Glasses, together with a 
Minute Description ot the Firing ot Colors and Enamels, on the 
Basis of Personal Practical Experience of the Art up to Date. t8 
illustrations. Second edition. ..... 

HAUPT. — Street Railway Motors: 

With Descriptions and Cost of Plants and Operation of the Various 
Systems now in Use. I2JW. > • • $!-75 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 15 



HAUPT. — A Manual of Engineering Specifications and Con- 

tracts 

By Lewis M. Haupt, C. E. Illustrated with numerous maps. 

328pp. 8vo $3 °° 

HAUPT. — The Topographer, His Instruments and Methods. 

- By Lewis M. Haupt, A. M., C. E. Illustrated with numerous 
plates, maps and engravings. 247 pp. 8vo. . . . $3-00 
HUGHES. — American Miller and Millwright's Assistant: 

By William Carter Hughes. i2mo. . . . $i-5° 

HULME. — Worked Examination Questions in Plane Geomet- 
rical Drawing : 
For the Use of Candidates for the Royal Military Academy, Wool- 
wich; the Royal Military College, Sandhurst; the Indian Civil En- 
gineering College, Cooper's Hill ; Indian .Public Works and Tele- 
graph Departments ; Royal Marine Light Infantry ; the Oxford and 
Cambridge Local Examinations, etc. By F. Edward Hulme, F. L. 
S., F. S. A., Art-Master Marlborough College. Illustrated by 300 

examples. Small quarto ° $ I»5° 

JERVIS.— Railroad Property: 

A Treatise on the Construction and Management of Railways; 
designed to afford useful knowledge, in the popular style, to the 
holders of this class of property ; as well as Railway Managers, Offi- 
cers, and Agents. By John B. Jervis, late Civil Engineer of the 
Hudson River Railroad, Croton Aqueduct, etc. i2mo., cloth $2.oc 
KEENE.-A Hand-Book of Practical Gauging: 

For the Use of Beginners, to which is added a Chapter on Distilla- 
tion, describing the process in operation at the Custom-House for 
ascertaining the Strength of Wines. By James B. Keene, of H. M. 

Customs. 8vo • . f 10 ° 

KELLEY.— Speeches, Addresses, and Letters on Industrial and 
Financial Questions : 
By Hon. William D. Kelley, M: C. 544 pages, 8vo. . $2.50 
KELLOGG.— A Kew Monetary System : 
The only means of Securing the respective Rights of Labor and 
Property, and of Protecting the Public from Financial Revulsions. 
By Edward Kellogg. i2mo. Paper cover, $1.00. Bound in 

cloth # J - 2 5 

KEMLO.— Watch-Repairer's Hand-Book : 
Beina a Complete Guide to the Young Beginner, in Taking Apart 
Putting Together, and Thoroughly Cleaning the English Lever and 
other Foreign Watches, and. all American Watches. By F. Kemlo, 
Practical Watchmaker. With Illustrations. i2mo. . $1.25 



X6 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

KENTISH.— A Treatise on a Box of Instruments, 

And the Slide Rule ; with the Theory of Trigonometry and Loga- 
rithms, including Practical Geometry, Surveying, Measuring of Tim- 
ber, Cask and Malt Gauging, Heights, and Distances. By THOMA* 
Kentish. In one volume. i2mo. . . ... $1.00 

KERL. — The Assayer's Manual : 

An Abridged Treatise on the Docimastic Examination of Ores, and 
Furnace and other Artificial Products. By Bruno Kerl, Professor 
in the Royal School of Mines. Translated from the German by 
William T. Brannt. Second American edition, edited with Ex- 
tensive Additions by F. Lynwood Garrison, Mem.ber of the 
American Institute of Mining Engineers, etc. Illustrated by 87 en- 
gravings. 8vo. (Scarce.^ 
KICK.— Flour Manufacture . 
A Treatise on Milling Science and Practice. By Frederick Kick 
Imperial Regierungsrath, Professor of Mechanical Technology in tht 
Imperial German Polytechnic Institute, Prague. Translated from 
the second enlarged and revised edition with supplement by H. H. 
P. Powles, Assoc. Memb. Institution of Civil Engineers. Illustrated 
with 28 Plates, and 167 Wood-cuts. 367 pages. 8vo. . $10.00 
KINGZETT.— The History, Products, and Processes of tho 
Alkali Trade : 
Including the most Recent Improvements. By Charles Thomas 
^•■-'-.7ett. Consulting Chemist. With 23 illustrations. 8vo. #2.59 
KIRK. — The Cupola Furnace : 

A Practical Treatise on the Construction and Management of Foundry 
Cupolas. By Edward Kirk, Practical Moulder and Melter, Con- 
sulting Expert in Melting. Illustrated by 78 engravings. Second 
Edition, revised and enlarged. 450 pages. 8vo. 1903. $3.50 

LANDRIN.— A Treatise on Steel : 

Comprising its Theory, Metallurgy, Properties, Practical Working, 
and Use. By M. H. C. Landrin, Jr. From the French, by A. A. 

Fesquet. i2mo $2.50 

LANGBEIN.— A Complete Treatise on the Electro-Deposi. 
tion of Metals : 
Comprising Electro-Plating and Galvanoplastic Operations, the De- 
position of Metals by the Contact and Immersion Processes, the Color- 
ing of Metals, the Methods of Grinding and Polishing, as well as 
Descriptions of the Electric Elements, Dynamo-Electric Machines, 
Thermo- Piles and of the Materials and Processes used in Every De- 
partment of the Art. From the German of Dr. George Langbein, 
with additions by Wm. T. Brannt. Fourth Edition, thoroughly revised 
and much enlarged. 150 Engravings. 590 pages. 8vo. 1902. $4.00 

L.ARDNER.— The Steam-Engine : 

For the Use of Beginners. Illustrated. i2mo. ... .60 

LEHNER. — The Manufacture of Ink: 

Comprising the Raw Materials, and the Preparation df Writing, 
Copying and Hektograph Inks, Safety Inks, Ink Extracts and Pow- 
ders, etc. Translated from the German of Sigmund Lehner, with 
additions by William T. Brannt. Illustrated. 12010. S2.00 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 17 



^ J? IN.— The Practical Brass and Iron Founder's Guide • 

A Concise Treatise on Brass Founding, Moulding, the Metals 'and 
their Alloys, etc.; to wmch are added Recent Improvements in the 
Manufacture of Iron, Steel by the Bessemer Process, etc etc Bf 
James Larkin, late Conductor of the Brass Foundry Department ia 
Reany Neafie & Co.'s Penn Works, Philadelphia. New edition 
revised, with extensive additions. 414 pages. i2mo. . $2.50 
LEROUX.—A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of 
Worsteds and Carded Yarns : 
Comprising Practical Mechanics, with Rules and Calculations applied 
to hpinning; Sorting, Cleaning, and Scouring Wools; the English 
and French Methods of Combmg, Drawing, and Spinning Worsfeds 
and Manufacturing Carded Yarns. Translated from the French of 
Charles Leroux, Mechanics! Engineer and Superintendent of a 
Spinning-Mill, by Horatio Paine, M. D., and A. A. Fesquet 
Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by twelve large Plates. To which 
is added an Appendix, containing Extracts from the Reports of the 
International Jury, and of the Artisans selected by the Committe- 
appo.nted by the Council of the Society of Arts, London, on Woolen 
and Worsted Machinery and Fabrics, as exhibited in the Paris Uni. 
versal Exposition, 1867. 8vo. ftc * 

LEFFEL.-The Construction of Mill-Dams'- ' ' 5 

Comprising also the Building of Race and Reservoir Embankment* 
and Head-Gates, the Measurement of Streams, Gauging of Water 
Supply, etc. By James Leffel & Co. Illustrated by 58 engravings. 

LESLIE.— Complete Cookery': '*,'*' * 2 ' 5a 

Directions for Cookery in its Various Branches. By Miss Leslie 
Sixtieth thousand. Thoroughly revised, with the addition of New 
Receipts. 121110. . . #1 co 

LE VAN.— The Steam Engine and the Indicator : 

Their Origin and Progressive Development; including the Most 
Recent Examples of Steam and Gas Motors, together with the Indi- 
cator, its Principles, its Utility, and its Application. By William 
Barnet Le Van. Illustrated by 205 Engravings, chiefly of IndL 

cator-Cards. 469 pp. 8vo f 4 00 

LIEBER.— Assayer's Guide : 
Or, Practical Directions to Assayers, Miners, and Smelters, for the 
Tests and Assays, by Heat and by Wet Processes, for the Ores of all 
tfr principal Metals, of Gold and Silver Coins and Alloys, and of 
Coal, etc. By Oscar M. Lieber. Revised. 283 pp. l2mo. $1.50 
^ockwood's Dictionary of Terms : 
Used in the Practice of Mechanical Engineering, embracing those 
Current in the Drawing Office, Pattern Shop, Foundry, Fitting, Turn- 
-ng, Smith's and Boiler Shops, etc., etc., comprising upwards of Six 
Thousand Definitions. Edited by a Foreman Pattern Maker, author 
(>f " Patterr Making." 417 pp. i2mo. , . . #3.75 



18 HENRY CAREY BAlRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

LUKIN.— The Lathe and Its Uses: 

Or Instruction in the Art of Turning Wood and Metal. Including 
a Description of the Most Modern Appliances for the Ornamentation 
of Plane and Curved Surfaces, an Entirely Novel Form of Lathe 

■ for Eccentric and Rose-Engine Turning; A Lathe and Planing 
Machine Combined; and Other Valuable Matter Relating to the 
Art. Illustrated by 462 engravings. Seventh edition. 315 pages. 
8vo, . " . #4.25 

MAIN and BROWN. — Questions on Subjects Connected with 
the Marine Steam-Engine : 

And Examination Papers; with Hints for their Solution. By 
Thomas J. Main, Professor of Mathematics, Royal "Waval College, 
and Thomas Brown, Chief Engineer, R. N. i2mo., cloth . $1.00 

MAIN and BROWN. — The Indicator and Dynamometer: 

With their Practical Applications to the Steam-Engine. By Thomas 
• J. Main, M. A. F. R., Ass't S. Professor Royal Naval College, 
Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer 
R. N., attached to the R. N. College. Illustrated. • 8vo. . 

MAIN and BROWN.— The Marine Steam-Engine. 
By Thomas J. Main, F. R. Ass't S. Mathematical Professor at the 
Royal Naval College, Portsmouth, and Thomas Brown, Assoc. 
Inst. C. E., Chief Engineer R. N. Attached to the Royal Naval 
College. With numerous illustrations. 8vo. 

MAKINS.— A Manual of Metallurgy: 

: By George Hogarth Makins. 100 engravings. Second edition 
rewritten and much enlarged. 121110.. 592 pages 

MARTIN.— Screw-Cutting Tables, for the Use of Mechanical 
Engineers : 
Showing the Proper Arrangement of (Vheels for Cutting the Threads 
of Screws of any Required Pitch ; with a Table for Making the Uni- 
versal Gas-Pipe Thread and Taps. By W. A. Martin, Engineer. 
8vo. .50 

MICHELL.— Mine Drainage: 
Being a Complete and Practical Treatise on Direct-Acting Under 
grcund Steam Pumping Machinery. With a Description of a large 
number of the best known Engines, their General Utility and the 
Special Sphere of their Action, the Mode of their Application, ancl 
their Merits compared with other Pumping Machinery. By Stephen 
MlCHELL. Illustrated by 247 engravings. 8vo., 369 pages. $12 50 

MOLESWORTH.- Pocket-Book of Useful Formulae and 
Memoranda for Civil and Mechanical Engineers. 
By Guilford L. Molesworth, Member of the Institution of Civil 
Engineers, Chief Resident Engineer of the Ceylon Railway. Full- 
bound in Pocket-book form $1.00 



tfENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 



MOORE.— The Universal Assistant and the Complete fife 
chanic : 

Containing over one million Industrial Facts, Calculations, Receipts, 
Processes, Trades Secrets, Rules, Business Forms, Legal Items, Etc., 
in every occupation, from the Household to the Manufactory. By 
R. Moore. Illustrated by 500 Engravings. i2mo. .. $2.50 

MORRIS. — Easy Rules for the Measurement of Earthworks : 
By means of the Prismoidal Formula. Illustrated with Numerous 
WoodrCuts, Problems, and Examples, and concluded by an Exten- 
sive Table for finding the Solidity in cubic yards from Mean Areas, 
The whole being adapted for convenient use by Engineers, Surveyors, 
Contractors, and others needing Correct Measurements of Earthwork 
By Elwood Morris, C. E. 8vo. . . . . $1.50 

MAUCHLINE.— The Mine Foreman's Hand-Book 

Of Practical and Theoretical Information on the Opening, Venti. 
lating, and Working of Collieries. Questions and Answers on Prac. 
tical and Theoretical Coal Mining. Designed to Assist Students and 
Others in Passing Examinations for Mine Foremanships. By 
Robert Mauchline, Ex-Inspector of Mines. A New, Revised and 
Enlarged Edition. Illustrated by 114 engrarings. 8vo. 337 

Pages . . #3.75 

NAPIER. — A System of Chemistry Applied to Dyeing. 
By James Napier, F. C. S. A New and Thoroughly Revised Edi- 
tion. Completely brought up to the present state of the Science, 
including the Chemistry of Coal Tar Colors, by A. A. Fesqjjet,. 
Chemist and Engineer. With an Appendix on Dyeing and Ca)icq 
Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris,*'i867. Illus- 
trated. 8vo. 422 pages , $3.00 

NEVILLE.— Hydraulic Tables, Coefficients, and Formulae, foi 
finding the Discharge of Water from Orifices, Notches, 
Weirs, Pipes, and Rivers : 
Third Edition, with Additions, consisting of New Formulae for the 
Discharge from Tidal and Flood Sluices and Siphons; general infor- 
mation on Rainfall, Catchment-Basins, Drainage, Sewerage, Water 
Supply for Towns and Mill Power, Bv Tohn Neville, C. E. M. R 
I. A. ; Fellow of the Royal Geological Society of Ireland. Thick 

12mo . . #5.50 

NEWBERY.— Gleanings from Ornamental Art of every 
style : 
Drawn from Examples in the British, South Kensington, Indian, 
Crystal Palace, and other Museums, the Exhibitions of 1851 and 
1862, and the best English and Foreign works. In a series of ioa 
exquisitely drawn Plates, containing many hundred examples. By 
Robert Newbery. 4to. ...... (Scarce.) 1 

NICHOLLS. —The Theoretical and Practical Boiler-Maker *ni 
Engineer's Reference Book: 
Containing a variety of Useful Infonnation for Employers of Labor. 
Poremen a*vl Working Boiler-Makers. Iron, Copper, and Tinsmiths 



20 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

Draughtsmen, Engineers, the General Steam-using Public, and for the 
Use of Science Schools and Classes. By Samuel Nicholls. Illus* 
trated by sixteen plaies, 1 2mo. $2.50 

NICHOLSON.— A Manual of the Art of Bookbinding : 

Containing full instructions in the different Branches of Forwarding, 
Gilding, and Finishing. Also, the Art of Marbling Book-edges and 
Paper. By James B. Nicholson. Illustrated. i2mo., cloth $2.25 

NICOLLS.— The Railway Builder: 
A Hand-Book for Estimating the Probable Cost of American Rail- 
way Construction and Equipment. By WILLIAM J. NlCOLLS, Civil 
Engineer. Illustrated, full bound, pocket-book form . $2.00 

NORMANDY. — The Commercial Handbook of Chemical An« 
alysis : 
Or Practical Instructions for the Determination of the Intrinsic o» 
Commercial Value of Substances used in Manufactures, in Trades, 
and in the Arts. By A. Normandy. New Edition, Enlarged, and 
to a great extent rewritten. By Henry M. Noad, Ph.D., F.R.S., 
thick i2mo Scarce 

NORRIS. — A Handbook for Locomotive Engineers and Ma- 
chinists : 
Comprising the Proportions and Calculations for Constructing Loco- 
motives; Manner of Setting Valves; Tables cf Squares, Cubes, Areas, 
etc., etc. By Septimus Norris, M. E. New edition. Illustrated, 
l2mo $i.5<3 

NYSTROM. — A New Treatise on Elements of Mechanics : 
Establishing Strict Precision in the Meaning of Dynamical Terms i 
accompanied with an Appendix on Duodenal Arithmetic and Me 
trology. By John W. Nystrom, C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. $^.o< 

NYSTROM. — On Technological Education and the Construc- 
tion of Ships and Screw Propellers : 
For Naval and Marine Engineers. By John W. Nystrom, latt 
Acting Chief Engineer, U. S. N. Second edition, revised, with addi 
tional matter. Illustrated by seven engravings. i2mo. . #i-2_ 

O'NEILL. — A Dictionary of Dyeing and Calico Printing: 
Containing a brief account of all the Substances and Processes it 
use in the Art of Dyeing and Printing Textile Fabrics ; with Practical 
Receipts and Scientific Information. By Charles O'Neill, Analy- 
tical Chemist. To which is added an Essay on Coal Tar Colors and 
their application to Dyeing and Calico Printing. By A. A. Fesquet> 
Chemist and Engineer. With an appendix * on Dyeing and Calico 
Printing, as shown at the Universal Exposition, Paris, 1867- 8vo., 
491 pages . • $3.00 

CRTON. — Underground Treasures-. 
How and Where to Find Them. A Key for the Ready Determination 
of all the Useful Minerals within the United States. By James 
ORTON, A.M., Late Professor of Natural History in Vassar College, 
N. Y ; author of the "Andes and the Amazon," etc. A New Edi- 
tion, with An Appendix on Ore Deposits and Testing Minerals (1901). 
Illustrated $1.50 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 21 

OSBORN.— The Prospector's Field Book and Guide. 

In the Search For and the Easy Determination of Ores and Other 
Useful Minerals. By Prof. H. S. Osborn, LL. D. Illustrated by 58 
Engravings. i2mo. Fifth Edition. Revised and Enlarged 

(1901) " I1.50 

OSBORN — A Practical Manual of Minerals, Mines and Mm 
ing: 
Comprising the Physical Properties, Geologic Positions, Local Occur- 
rence and Associations of the Useful Minerals; their Methods of 
Chemical Analysis and Assay ; together with Various Systems of Ex- 
cavating and Timbering, Brick and Masonry Work, during Driving, 
Lining, Bracing and other Operations, etc. By Prof. H. S. Osborn, 
LL. 13., Author of " The Prospector's Field-Book and Guide." 171 
engravings. Second Edition, revised. 8vo. . . . $4.50 
OVERMAN.~-Th« Manufacture of Steel : 
Containing the Practice and Principles of Working and Making Steel. 
A Handbook for Blacksmiths and Workers in Steel and Iron, Wagon 
Makers, Die Sinkers, Cutlers, and Manufacturers of Files and Hard- 
ware, of Stoel and Iron, and for Men of Science and Art. By 
Frederick Overman, Mining Engineer, Author of the " Manu- 
facture of Lon," etc. A new, enlarged, and revised Edition. By 
A. A. FesqljET, Chemist and Engineer. i2mo. . . $1.50 
OVERMAN. —The Moulder's and Founder's Pocket Guide : 
A Treatise or. Moulding and Founding in Green-sand, Dry -sand, Loam, 
and Cement; the Moulding of Machine Frames, Mill-gear, Hollow, 
ware, Ornaments, Trinkets, Bells, and Statues; Description of Moulds 
for Iron, Bronze, Brass, and other Metals; Plaster of Paris, Sulphur, 
Wax, etc. ; the Construction of Melting Furnaces, the Melting and 
Founding of Metals ; the Composition of Alloys and their Nature, 
etc., etc. By Frederick Overman, M. E. A new Edition, to 
which is added a Supplement on Statuary and Ornamental Moulding, 
Ordnance, Malleable Iron Castings, etc. By A. A. Fesquet, Chem- 
ist and Engineer. Illustrated by 44 engravings. l2mo. . $2.00 
PAINTER, GILDER, AND VARNISHER'S COMPANION. 
Comprising the Manufacture and Test of Pigments, the Arts of Paint- 
ing, Graining, Marbling, Staining, Sign- writing, Varnishing, Glass- 
staining, and Gilding on Glass ; together with Coach Painting and 
Varnishing, and the Principles of the Harmony and Contrast of 
Colors. Twenty-seventh Edition. Revised, Enlarged, and in great 
part Rewritten. By William T. Brannt, Editor of " Varnishes, 
Lacquers, Printing Inks and Sealing Waxes." Illustrated. . 395 pp. 

121110. . . . , $l .50 

PALLETT.— The Miller's, Millwright's, and Engineer's Guide. 
By Henry Pallett. Illustrated. i2mo. . . . $2.00 



22 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

PERCY.— The Manufacture of Russian Sheet-Iron. 

By John Percy, M. D., F. R. S. Paper. ... 25 cts. 
PERKINS. — Gas and Ventilation : 

-Practical Treatise on Gas and Ventilation. Illustrated. l2mo. $1.25 
PERKINS AND STOWE.-A New Guide to the Sheet-iron 
and Boiler Plate Roller : 
Containing a Series of Tables showing the Weight of Slabs and Piles 
to Produce Boiler Plates, and of the Weight of Piles and the Sizes of 
Bars to produce Sheet-iron ; the Thickness of the Bar Gauge 
in decimals; the Weight per foot, and the Thickness on the Bar or 
Wire Gauge of the fractional parts of an inch; the Weight per 
sheet, and the Thickness on the Wire Gauge of Sheet-iron of various 
dimensions to weigh 112 lbs. per bundle; and the conversion of 
Short Weight into Long Weight, and Long Weight into Short. 

$1.50 
POSSELT. — Recent Improvements in Textile Machinery Re- 
lating to Weaving : 
Giving the Most Modern Points on the Construction of all Kinds 
of Looms, Warpers, Beamers, Slashers, Winders, Spoolers, Reeds, 
Temples, Shuttles, Bobbins, Heddles, Heddle Frames, Pickers, 
Jacquards, Card Stampers, etc., etc. 600 illus. . . $3 00 

POSSELT.— Technology of Textile Design: 
The Most Complete Treatise on the Construction and Application 
of Weaves for all Textile Fabrics and the Analysis of Cloth. By E. 

A. Posselt. 1,500 illustrations. 410 $5-00 

POSSELT.— Textile Calculations: 

A Guide to Calculations Relating to the Manufacture of all Kinds 
of Yarns and Fabrics, the Analysis of Cloth, Speed, Power and Belt 
Calculations. By E. A. POSSELT. Illustrated. 4to. . $2.00 
REGNAULT.— Elements of Chemistry: 
By M. V. Regnault. Translated from the French by T. Forrest 
Betton, M. D., a<nd edited, with Notes, by James C. Booth, Melter 
and Refiner U. S. Mint, and William L. Faber, Metallurgist and 
Mining Engineer. Illustrated by nearly 700 wood-engravings. Com- 
prising nearly 1,500 pages. In two volumes, 8vo., cloth . $6.00 
RICHARDS.— Aluminium : 

Its History, Occurrence, Properties, Metallurgy and Applications, 
including its Alloys. By Joseph W. Richards, A. C, Chemist and 
Practical Metallurgist, Member of the Deutsche Chemische Gesell- 
schaft. Must. Third edition, enlarged and revised (1895) . $6.00 
RIFFAULT, VERGNAUD, and TOUSSAJ.NT.— A Practical 
Treatise on the Manufacture of Colors for Painting : 
Comprising the Origin, Definition, and Classification of Colors; the 
Treatment of the Raw Materials ; the best Formulse and the Newest 
Processes for the Preparation of every description of Pigment, and 
the Necessary Apparatus and Directions for its Use; Dryers; the 
Testing. Application, and Qualities of Paints, etc., etc. By MM. 
Riffault, Vergnaud, and Toussaint. Revised and Edited by M. 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO. S CATALOGUE. 23 



F. Malepeyre. Translated from the French, by A. A. FEsyTrmiy 
Chemist and Engineer. Illustrated by Eighty engravings. In one 

vol.. 8vo., 659 pages " • $S-°° 

ROPER. — Catechism for Steam Engineers and Electricians: 

Including the Construction and Management of Steam Engines, 
Steam Boilers and Electric Plants. By Stephkn Roper. Twenty- 
first edition, rewritten and greatly enlarged by E. R. IvELLtR and 
C. VV. Pike. 365 pages. Illustrations. 181110., tucks, gilt. $2.00 

ROPER.— Engineer's Handy Book: 

Containing Facts, Formulae, Tables and Questions on Power, its 
Generation, Transmission and Measurement; Heat, Fuel, and Steam; 
The Steam Boiler and Accessories ; Steam Engines and their Parts ; 
Steam Engine Indicator ; Gas and Gasoline Engines ; Materials ; 
their Properties and Strength ; Together with a Discussion of the Fun- 
damental Experiments in Electricity, and an Explanation of Dynamos, 
Motors, Batteries, etc., and Rules for Calculating Sizes of Wires. By 
Stephen Roper. 15th edition. Revised and enlarged by E. R. 
Keller, M. E. and C. W. Pike, B. S. (1899), with numerous illus- 
trations. Pocket-book form. Leather $3-5° 

ROPER. — Hand-Book of Land and Marine Engines : 
Including the Modelling, Construction, Running, and Management 
of Lane 1 and Marine Engines and Boilers. With illustrations. 3y 
Stephen Roper, Engineer. Sixth edition. i2mo., tucks, gilt edge. 

$3-50 
ROPER.— Hand-Book of the Locomotive : 

Including the Construction of Engines and Boilers, and the Construc- 
tion, Management, and Running of Locomotives. By STEPHEN 
Roper. Eleventh edition. i8mo., tucks, gilt edge . $2.50 

ROPER.— Hand-Book of Modern Steam Fire-Engines. 

With illustrations. By Stephen Roper, Engineer. Fourth edition, 
i2mo., tucks, gilt edge ....... $3-5° 

ROPER. — Questions and Answers for Engineers. 

This little book contains all the Questions that Engineers will be 
asked when undergoing an Examination for the purpose of procuring 
Licenses, and they are so plain that any Engineer or Fireman of or 
dinary intelligence may commit them to memory in a short time. By 
Stephen Roper, Engineer. Third edition . . . $2.00 
ROPER. — Use and Abuse of the Steam Boiler. 

By Stephen Roper, Engineer. Eighth edition, with illustrations. 
l8mo., tucks, gilt edge ....... $2.00 

ROSE. — The Complete Practical Machinist : 

Embracing Lathe Work, Vise Work, Drills and Drilling, Taps and 
Dies, Hardening and Tempering, the Making and Use of Tools 
Tool Grinding, Marking out Work, Machine Tools, etc. By Joshua 
Rose. 39s Engravings. Nineteenth Edition, greatly Enlarged with 
New and Valuable Matter. i2mo., 504 pages. . . $2.50 

ROSE. — Mechanical Drawing Self-Taught : 

Comprising Instructions in the Selection and Preparation of Drawing 
Instruments, Elementary Instruction in Practical Mechanical Draw- 



24 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

ing, together with Examples in Simple Geometry and Elementary 
Mechanism, including Screw Threads, Gear Wheels, Mechanical 
Motions, Engines and Boilers. By Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated 
by 330 engravings. 8vo , 313 pages .... $4.00 

ROSE. — The Slide- Valve Practically Explained: 

Embracing simple and complete Practical Demonstrations of th. 
operation of each element in a Slide-valve Movement, and illustrat- 
ing the effects of Variations in their Proportions by examples care- 
fully selected from the most recent and successful practice. By 
. Joshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated by 35 engravings . $1.00 
I ROSS. — The Blowpipe in Chemistry, Mineralogy and Geology: 
Containing all Known Methods of Anhydrous Analysis, many Work- 
ing Examples, and Instructions for Making Apparatus. By Lieut.- 
Colonel W. A. Ross, R. A., F. G. S. With 120 Illustrations. 
i2mo $2.O0 

SHAW.— Civil Architecture : 

Being a Complete Theoretical and Practical System of Building, con- 
taining the Fundamental Principles of the Art. By Edward Shaw, 
Architect. To which is added a Treatise on Gothic Architecture, etc. 
By Thomas W. Silloway and George M. Harding, Architects. 
The whole illustrated by 102 quarto plates finely engraved on copper. 
Eleventh edition. 4to #6.00 . 

SHUNK. — A Practical Treatise on Railway Curves and Loca- 
tion, for Young Engineers. 
By W. F. Shunk, C.'E. 121110. Full bound pocket-book form $2.00 

SLATER. — The Manual of Colors and Dye Wares. 

By J. W. Slater. i2mo $3-oo 

SLOAN. — American Houses : 

A variety of Original Designs for Rural Buildings. Illustrated by 
26 colored engravings, with descriptive references. By Samuel 
Sloan, Architect. 8vo. -75 

SLOAN. — Homestead Architecture: 

Containing Forty Designs for Villas, Cottages, and Farm-houses, with 
Essays on Style, Construction, Landscape Gardening, Furniture, etc., 
etc. TUustrated by upwards of 200 engravings. By Samuel Sloan, 
Architect. 8vo $2.50 

SLOANE. — Ho.re Experiments m Science. 

By T. O'Conor Slcume, E. M., A.M., Fk. O. Illustrated by 91 
engravings. 121110. ....... $1.00 

SMEATON. — Builder's Pocktt -Companion : 

v Containing the Elements of Building, Surveying, and Architecture; 
with Practical Rules and Instructions corrected with the subject. 

1 By A. C. Smeaton, Civil Engineer, etc. i2mo. 

SMITH.— A Manual of Political Economy. 

By E. Peshine Smith. A New Edition, to which is added a full 
Index. i2mo. $125 



HENRY CAREY BaIRD &' CO.'S CATALOGUE. 25 



SMITH. — Parks and Pleasure-Grounds : 

Or Practical Notes on Country Residences, Villas, Public Parks, and 
Gardens. By Charles H: J. Smith, Landscape Gardener and 
Garden Architect, etc., etc. i2mo. .... #2.oq 

SMITH.— The Dyer's Instructor: 

Comprising Practical Instructions in the Art of Dyeing Silk, Cotton* 
Wool, and Worsted, and Woolen Goods; containing nearly 8ooj 
Receipts. To which is added a Treatise on the Art of Padding; anc| 
the Printing of Silk Warps, Skeins, and Handkerchiefs, and thel 
various Mordants and Colors for the different styles of such workj 
By David Smith, Pattern Dyer. i2mo. • . . . $1.50/ 

SMYTH.— A Rudimentary Treatise on Coal and Coal-Mining. 
By Warrington W. Smyth, M. A., F. R. G., President R. G. S.' 
of Cornwall. Fifth edition, revised and corrected. With numer- 
ous illustrations. l2mo. ...... $5«7$ 

SNIVELY. — Tables for Systematic Qualitative Chemical Anak 
ysis. 
By John H. Snively, Phr. D. 8vo. .... $1.00 

SNIVELY.— The Elements of Systematic Qualitative chemical 
Analysis : 
A Hand-book for Beginners. By John H. Snively, Phr. D. i6mo. 

$2.00 
STOKES. — The Cabinet-Maker and Upholsterer's Companion -. 
Comprising the Art of Drawing, as applicable to Cabinet Work; 
Veneering, Inlaying, and Buhl-Work; the Art of Dyeing and Stain 
ing Wood, Ivory, Bone, Tortoise-Shell, etc. Directions for Lacker- 
ing, Japanning, and Virnishing; to make French Polish, Glues 
Cements, and Compos'.-' ns; with numerous Receipts, useful to work 
men generally. Bv STOKES. Illustrated. A New Edition, with 
an Appendix upor .ench Polishing, Staining, Imitating, Varnishing, 
etc., etc. i2mo ........ #i- 2 5 

STRENGTH AND OTHER PROPERTIES OF METALS'. 
Reports of Experiments on the Strength and other Properties of 
Metals for Cannon. With a Description of the Machines for Testing 
Metals, and of the Classification of Cannon in service. By Officers 
of the Ordnance Department, U. S. Army. By authority of the Secre. 
taryofWar. Illustrated by 25 large steel plates. Quarto . $5.00 
6ULLIVAN. — Protection to Native Industry. 
By Sir Edward Sullivan, Baronet, author of " Ten Chapters on 
Social Reforms." 8vo. ....... $1.00 

SHERRATT.— The Elements of Hand-Railing : 

Simplified and Explained in Concise Problems that are Easily Under- 
stood. The whole illustrated with Thirty-eight Accurate and Origi- 
nal Plates, Founded on Geometrical Principles, and Showing how to 
Make Rail Without Centre Joints, Making Better Rail of the Same 
Material, with Half the Labor, and Showing How to Lay Out Stairs 
of all Kinds. By R, J. Sherratt. Folio. . . . $2.50 



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26 ^^ HENRY CMEY BAIRij ShCO.'S CATALOGUE. 

= 1^- -^ y-;— -r— — g . ■ . . — 

SYME. — Outlines of an Industrial Science".* T 

By David Syme. i2mo. ... - "$. . . $2.00 

TABLES 'SHOWING THE WEIGHT* OF ROUND, 
SQUARE, AND FLAT BAR IRON, STEEL, ETC., 

By Measurement^ Cloth ».■••". . . > , ' '-' ._ . • 63 

THALLNER.-^rpol-gteel>=^ L 

A Coneise Handbook' en Tool-Steel in ..'General:. 'Its Treatment in 
the Operations 9f 'Forging, Annealing] hardening,- Tempering, etc., 
and the Appliances Therefor. ^ByXXrro TThallNer, Manager in 
Chief of the Tool-Sjeel Works,' "Bisma'rtikh.ujtte, Germany. From the 
German by -^Vii-LrAM' T.^'r^jst. • Il|lustrar!|d by 69 engravings. 
^194 pages. %vo. 1902. . 7' ".' . .' ' '. . . $2.00 
TEMPLETON..^The Practical Examinator'on Steam and the 

Steam- Engine: ' ,\ .. :\ 

,With Instructive References rd.ativethereto r arranged for the Use of 
Engiaieers 1 ^ Stud^rrtSi aftd -others. .By Wilijam Templeton, En. 
gintef. ' i^mo,' 3-i* ..;: ' .' ••- 4 . ■• • ";" *•■■ , . $1.00 
THAUSING.— Th&«Theory. and Practice of the Preparation of 
Malt and the FJtbricati^n'of. Beer: 
With especial reference to kth«vVieniia Processfjof Brewing. Elab- 
orated from personal jSjcpenence by Juilusy-E.; THausing, Professor 
at the School for Brewerjjkj a«d"at the Agricultural Institute, Modling, 
near, Vienna; TransMeci from th^'Germa,rt bv WILLIAM T. Brannt, 
Thgroughlyand elaborately edited', wth-rnufh American matter, and 
according to the latest arid most Scrtntific Practice, by A. Schwarz, 
and Dr. A. H.Bauer. ' IlktsfratecL b^.140 .:Eftgravings. 8vq., 815 

pages .'•."...*• .' »*"..#: j/P;?J> a • • $10.00 

THOMPSON.— Political Economy. With Especia^Reference 

to the Industrial History of Nations : 

By Robert E. Thompson, M. A., Professoi_of Social- Science in the 

University of Pennsylvania. i2mo. # «"" v.. • . . . ^1.50 

THOMSON.— Freight Charges Calculator: — 

By Andrew Thomson, Freight Agent. 24mo. . . $1.25 
TURNER'S (THE) COMPANION: . 

Containing Instructions in Concentric, Elliptic^ and Eccentric Tufnjl 
ing; also various Plates of Chucks, Tools, and Instruments; and 
s Directions for using the Eccentric Cutter, Drill,- Vertical Cutter, and 
Circular Rest; with. Patterns and Instructions for working them, 
l2mo. .'.-.. • . • . . ... . . $1.00 

TURNIN^: Specimens of Fancy T,urning Executed on the 
Hand qr Foot-Lathe : ^ V^. x . 
With Geometric, Oval, and Eccentric Chucks, and Elliptical Cutting 
Frame. By an Amateur. Illustrated by 30 exquisite Photographs. 
4to. t . . '. . . . '. . . ■ $2.50- 

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HB&RY CAREY BA1RD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 27 



;.;VAILE. — Galvanized- Iron, Cornice- Worker's Manual: 

ContjajAing Instructions in)' Laying out the Different Mitres, and 
MakSjjff Patterns for all jffnds of Plain and ^Circular Work. Also, 
TableiTof Weights, Areas and Circumferences of Circles, and other 
Matter calculate<T7©~B£$iefit the Trade'.' By Charles A. V-AILE. 
Illustrated by Iwem^one plates. 4tof .. . •' \ • $5-°0 

y -' VILLE. — On Artificial Manures : 

Their- Chemical Selection a,nd Scientific Application to Agriculture. 
A series of Lectures given at the Experimental Farm at Vincennes, 
during 1867 and 1874-75. By M. Georges VIlle. Translated and ' 
/ • Edited by William, Crookes, F. R. S. Illustrated by thirty-one 
engravings. 8vo.,45olpages *„■ . . . . $6.00. 

'; .1 VILLE. — The School of Chemical Manures : ' 
'■' • Or, Elementary Principles in the Use of Fertilizing Agents. From 
the French of M. Geo; Ville, by A. A-' Fesquet, Chemist and En- 
\ ■■ gineer. With Illustrations'. _ 12010. . -. - . . $1.25 

VOGT^ElC— The Architect's and Builder's Pocket- Companion , 

and Price-Rook: . , y 

■ Consisting of a Sl^.il -but -Comprehensive Epitome of Decimals^J&to- 

decimul^Geonie^y aifd Mensuration';^ with Tables- of:, UjikelrStatesc 

• *'" Measuresf^Sties-,- Weights^ Strengths, etc., of IrQn^_Wood, Stone, 

BriAk, Cement aTid"CojicretesfT7u%ntities of Materials in given Sizes 

aM„ liimen^ons of Wood, Brick and. 'Stone; and full and complete 

^. Bills<ST J Prices for Carpenters Work and Painting; also, Rules' for 

^fejompaiing" and Valuing Bridv-aw^Skick Work, Stone Work, Paint- 

s ing, Plastering, with/ a Vocabulary of Technical 1 Terms, etc. By 

Frank Wl Vc-goes, Architect, Indianapolis, Ind. . Enlarged, revised, 

.ahcF'correcled. In one volume, 368 pages, full-bound, pocket-book 

form, gilt edges . . . % •■ . . ^-$2.00 

Cloth ° . V. . ... . . . . >>? ^*-50 

VAN; CLEVE. — The English and American Mechanic 7^**^ 
Comprising a Collection of Over Three Thousand Receipts, Rules, 
and Tables, designed for the Use of every Mechanic and Manufac- 
turer. By B. FranIc Van Cleve. ^Illustrated.- 500 pp. 121110. $2.00 
VAN DER BURG.^Schoofbf Painting for the-Imitation of: 
Woods and Marbles : 
A Compete, Practical Treatise on the Art and Craft of Graining and 
Marbling with the Tools and Appliances. 36 platesi '. Folio, 12 x 20 
inches ~,__±_^h '•': • „ • W-" • • ' v $10.00 
WAHNSCHAFFE.— A Guide to the Scientific Examination 
. of Soils : ■— . . " ' - 

Comprising Select Methods of Mechanical and Chemical Analysis 
and Physical Investigation. TranslatecV-from the German of Dr. F. 
Wahn£chaffe. With "additions by Wh££iam T. Brannt.. Illus- 
trated by 25 engravings. 121110. 177 pages . . . ^1.50 
WALTG^I.— Cpal-Mining Described and Illustrated : 
• By Thomas H. Walton, Mining Engineer. Illustrated by 24 .'arg? 
and elaborate Plates, after Actual Workings and Apparatus. ,»5.oc 



2S liENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

WARE.— The Sugar Beet. 
Including a History of the Beet Sugar Industry in Europe, Varietie 
of the Sugar Beet, Examination, Soils, Tillage, Seeds and Sowing 
Yield and Cost of Cultivation, Harvesting, Transportation, Conserva 
tion, Feeding Qualities of the Beet and of the Pulp, etc. By Lewi< 
S. Ware, C. E., M. E. Illustrated by ninety engravings. 8vo. 

WARN.— The Sheet-Metal Worker's Instructor: 

For Zinc, Sheet-Iron, Copper, and Tin-Plate Workers, etc. Contain- 
ing a selection of Geometrical Problems ; also, Practical and Simple 
Rules for Describing the various Patterns required in the different 
branches of the above Trades. By Reuben H. Warn, Practical 
Tin-Plate Worker. To which is added an Appendix, containing 
Instructions for Boiler-Making, Mensuration of Surfaces and Solids, 
Rules for Calculating the Weights of different Figures of Iron and 
Steel, Tables of the Weights of Jron, Steel, etc. Illustrated by thirty 
two Plates and thirty-seven Wood Engravings. 8vo. . $3-00 

WARNER. — New Theorems, Tables', and Diagrams, for the 
Computation of Earth-work : 

Designed for the use of Engineers in Preliminary and Final Estimates 
of Students in Engineering, and of Contractors and other non-profes- 
sional Computers. In two parts, with an Appendix. Part I. A Prac- 
tical Treatise; Part II. A Theoretical Treatise, and the Appendix. 
Containing Notes to the Rules and Examples of Part I.; Explana- 
tions of the Construction of Scales, Tables, and Diagrams, and a 
Treatise upon Equivalent Square Bases and Equivalent Level Heights. 
By John Warner, A. M., Mining and Mechanical Engineer. Illus- 
trated by 14 Plates. 8vo. $3-oo 

WILSON. — Carpentry and Joinery. 

By John Wilson, Lecturer on Building Construction, Carpentry and 
Joinery, etc., in the Manchester Technical School. Third Edition, 
with 65 full page plates, in flexible cover, oblong . . .80 

WATSON.— A Manual of the Hand-Lathe : 

Comprising Concise Directions for Working Metals of all kinds, 
Ivory, Bone and Precious Woods; Dyeing, Coloring, and French 
Polishing; Inlaying by Veneers, and various methods practised to 
produce Elaborate work with Dispatch, and at Small Expense. By 
Egbert P. Watson, Author of " The Modern Practice of American 
Machinists and Engineers." Illustrated by 78 engravings. #1.50 

WATSON. — The Modern Practice of American Machinists and 
Engineers 

Including the Construction, Application, and Use of Drills, Lathe 
Tools, Cutters for Boring Cylinders, and Hollow-work generally , with 
the most Economical Speed for the same; the Results verified b) 
Actual Practice at the Lathe, the Vise, and on the Floor. Together 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 29 



with Workshop Management, Economy of Manufacture, the Steam 
Engine, Boilers, Gears, Belting, etc., etc. By Egbert P. Watson. 
Illustrated by eighty-six engravings. l2mo. . . . $2.50 

WATT. — The Art of Soap Making : 

A Practical Hand-Book of the Manufacture of Hard and Soft Soaps, 
Toilet Soaps, etc. Fifth Edition, Revised, to which is added an 
Appendix on Modern Candle Making. By Alexander Watt. 
111. 121110 $3-°° 

WEATHERLY.- Treatise on the Art of Boiling Sugar, Crys- 
tallizing, Lozenge-making, Comfits, Gum Goods, 
And other processes for Confectionery, etc., in which are explained, 
in an easy and familiar manner, the various Methods of Manufactur- 
ing every Description of Raw and Refined Sugar Goods, as sold by 
Confectioners and others. 121110. ..... $1-5° 

WILL.— Tables of Qualitative Chemical Analysis : 

With an Introductory Chapter on the Course of Analysis. By Pro- 
fessor HE1NR1CH Will, of Giessen, Germany. Third American, 
from the eleventh German edition. Edited by Charles F. Himes, 
Ph. D., Professor of Natural Science, Dickinson College, Carlisle, 
Pa. 8vo #1.50 

WILLIAMS.— On Heat and Steam : 

Embracing New Views of Vaporization, Condensation and Explo- 
sion. By Charles Wye Wiiliams, A. I. C. E. Illustrated. 8vo. 

$2.50 

WILSON. — First Principles of Political Economy: 

With Reference to Statesmanship and the Progress of Civilization. 
By Professor W. D. Wilson, of the Cornell University. A new and 
revised edition. i2mo. ....... $1-5° 

WILSON. — The Practical Tool-Maker and Designer: 

A Treatise upon the Designing of Tools and Fixtures for Machine 
Tools and Metal Working Machinery, Comprising Modern Examples 
of Machines with Fundamental Designs for Tools for the Actual Pro- 
duciion of the work; Together witli Special Reference to a Set of 
Tools for Machining the Various Parts of a Bicycle. Illustrated by 
189 engravings. 1898 $2.50 

CONTENTS: Introductory. Chapter I. Modern Tool Room and Equipment. 
II. Files, Their Use and Abuse. III. Steel and Tempering. IV. Making Jigs. 
V. Milling Machine fixtures. VI. Tools and Fixtures for Screw Machines. VII. 
Broaching. VIII. Punches and Dies for Cutting and Drop Press. IX. Tools for 
Hollow- Ware. X. Embossing : Metal, Coin, and Stamped Sheet-Metal Orna- 
ments. XI. Drop Forging. XII. Solid Drawn Shells or Ferrules: Cupping or 
Cutting, and Drawing : Breaking Down Shells. XIII. Annealing, Pickling and 
Cleaning. XIV. Tools for Draw Bench. XV. Cutting and Assembling Pieces 
by Means of Ratchet Dial Plates at One Operation. XVI. The Header. XVII. 
Tools for Fox Lathe. XVIII. Suggestions for a Set of Tools for Machining the 
Various Parts of a Bicycle. XIX. The Plater's Dynamo. XX. Conclusion— 
With a Few Random Ideas. Appendix. Index. 

WOODS. — Compound Locomotives: 

By Arthur Tannatt Woods. Second edition, revised and enlarged 
by David Leonard Barnes, A. M., C. E. 8vo. 330 pp. fo.oc 



30 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 



WOHLER. — A Hand-Book of Mineral Analysis : 

Bv F. WShler, Professor of Chemistry in the University of GSttin- 
gen. Edited by Henry B. Nason, Professor of Chemistry in the 
Renssalaer Polytechnic Institute, Troy, New York. Illustrated. 
i2mo. 

WORSSAM. — On Mechanical Saws: 

From the Transactions of the Society of Engineers, 1869. By S. W. 
Worssam, Jr. Illustrated by eighteen large plates. 8vo. $1-5° 



RECENT ADDITIONS. 

BRANNT. — Varnishes, Lacquers, Printing Inks and Sealing-: 
Waxes : 

Their Raw Materials and their Manufacture, to which is added the 
Art of Varnishing and Lacquering, including the Preparation of Put- 
ties and of Stains for Wood, Ivory, Bone, Horn, and Leather. By 
William T. Brannt. Illustrated by 39 Engravings, 338 pages. 

i2mo #3.00 

BRANNT — The Practical Scourer and Garment Dyer: 

Comprising Dry or Chemical Cleaning ; the Art of Removing Stains ; 
Fine Washing; Bleaching and Dyeing of Straw Hats, Gloves, and 
Feathers of all kinds; Dyeing of Worn Clothes of all fabrics, in- 
cluding Mixed Goods, by One Dip; and the Manufacture of Soaps 
and Fluids for Cleansing Purposes. Edited by William T. Brannt, 
Editor of " The Techno-Chemical Receipt Book." Illustrated. 
203 pages. i2mo. ....... $2.00 

BRANNT.— Petroleum . 

Its History, Origin, Occurrence, Production, Physical and Chemical 
Constitution, Technology, Examination and Uses; Together with 
the Occurrence and Uses of Natural Gas. Edited chiefly from the 
German of Prof. Hans Hoefer and Dr. Alexander Veith, by Wm. 
T. Brannt. Illustrated by 3 Plates and 284 Engravings. 743 pp. 
8vo. #7.50 

BRANNT. — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Vine- 
gar and Acetates, Cider, and Fruit-Wines ; 
Preservation of Fruits and Vegetables by Canning and Evaporation; 
Preparation of Fruit-Butters, Jellies, Marmalades, Catchups, Pickles, 
Mustards, etc. Edited from various sources. By William T. 
Brannt. Illustrated by 79 Engravings. 479 pp. 8vo. $6.00 

BRANNT.— The Metal Worker's Handy-Book of Receipts 
and Processes : 

Being a Collection of Chemical Formulas and Practical Manipula- 
tions for the working of all Metals ; including the Decoration and 
Beautifying of Articles Manufactured therefrom, as well as their 
Preservation. Edited from various sources. By Willi AM T. 
Brannt. Illustrated, iamo. $2.50 



HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 31 

DEITE. — A Practical Treatise on the Manufacture of Per- 
fumery : 

Comprising directions for making all kinds of Perfumes, Saclie. 
Powders, Fumigating Materials, Dentifrices, Cosmetics, etc., with a 
full account of the Volatile Oils, Balsams, Resins, and other Natural 
and Artificial Perfume-substances, including the Manufacture of 
Fruit Ethers, and tests of their purity. By Dr. C. Deite, assisted 
by L. Borchert, F. Eichbaum, E. Kugler, H. Toeffner, and 
other experts. From the German, by Wm. T. Brannt. 28 Engrav- 
ings. 358 pages. 8vo. #3.00 

EDWARDS. — American Marine Engineer, Theoretical and 
Practical : 

With Examples of the latest and most approved American Practice. 
By Emory Edwards. 85 illustrations. i2mo. . . $2.50 

EDWARDS. — 900 Examination Questions and Answers: 

For Engineers and Firemen (Land and Marine) who desire to ob- 
tain a United States Government or State License. Pocket-book 

form, gilt edge . # T -5° 

FLEMMING.— Practical Tanning. 

By Louis A. Flemming, an American Practical Tanner. 450 pages. 
8vo. (1903) .... $4.00 

POSSELT. — The Jacquard Machine Analysed and Explained : 

With an Appendix on the Preparation of Jacquard Cards, and 
Practical Hints to Learners of Jacquard Designing. By E. A. 
Posselt. With 230 illustrations and numerous diagrams. 127 pp. 
4to $3-OQ 

POSSELT.— The Structure of Fibres, Yarns and Fabrics: 

Being a Practical Treatise for the Use of all Persons Employed in 
the Manufacture of Textile Fabrics, containing a Description of the 
Growth and Manipulation of Cotton, Wool, Worsted, Silk Flax, 
Jute, Ramie, China Grass and Hemp, and Dealing with all Manu- 
facturers' Calculations for Every Class of Material, also Giving 
Minute Details for the Structure of all kinds of Textile Fabrics, and 
an Appendix of Arithmetic, specially adapted for Textile Purposes. 
By E. A. Posselt. Over 400 Illustrations, quarto. . $5-00 

RICH. — Artistic Horse-Shoeing : 

A Practical and Scientific Treatise, giving Improved Methods of 
Shoeing, with Special Directions for Shaping Shoes to Cure Different 
Diseases of the Foot, and for the Correction of Faulty Action in 
Trotters. By George E. Rich. 62 Illustrations. 153 pages 

'. larno, ..... . .... $1.00 



-I 



32 HENRY CAREY BAIRD & CO.'S CATALOGUE. 

RICHARDSON.— Practical Blacksmithing : 

A Collection of Articles Contributed at Different Times by Skilled 
Workmen to the columns of " The Blacksmith and Wheelwright," 
and Covering nearly the Whole Range of Blacksmithing, from the 
Simplest Job of Work to some of the Most Complex Forgings. 
Compiled and Edited by M. T. Richardson. 

Vol.1. 210 Illustrations. 224 pages. i2mo. . . $1.00 

Vol. II. ,230 Illustrations. 262 pages. l2mo»,' . . $1.00 
Vol. III. 390 Illustrations. 307 pages. i2rrio. . . $1.00 . 
Vol. IV. 226 Illustrations. 276 pages. l2mo. , . #1.00 

RICHARDSON. — The Practical Horseshoer: 

Being a Collection of Articles on Horseshoeing in aH its Branches* 
which have appeared from time to time in the colurrfhs oPfi'Ihe 
Blacksmith and Wheelwright," etc. Compiled and edited bjjjjl. T. 
Richardson. 174 illustrations. . . . <. . $1.00 

ROPER. — Instructions and Suggestions for Engineers and 
Firemen : 
By Stephen Roper, Engineer. i8mo. Morocco . $2.00 

ROPER. — The Steam Boiler: Its Care and Management: 
By Stephen Roper, Engineer. 1 2mo., tuck, gilt edges. $2.00 

ROPER. — The Young Engineer's Own Book: 

Containing an Explanation of the Principle and Theories on which 
the Steam Engine as a Prime Mover is Based. By Stephen Roper, 
Engineer. 160 illustrations, 363 pages. i8mo., tuck . $2.50 

ROSE. — Modern Steam -Engines: 

An Elementary Treatise upon the Steam-Engine, written in Plaid 
language ; for Use in the Workshop as well as in the Drawing Office. 
Giving Full Explanations of the Construction of Modern Steam. 
Engines : Including Diagrams showing their Actual operation. To- 
gether with Complete but Simple Explanations of the operations of 
Various Kinds of Valves, Valve Motions, and Link Motions, etc., 
thereby Enabling the Ordinary Engineer to clearly Understand the 
Principles Involved in their Construction and Use, ana to Plot out 
their Movements upon the Drawing Board. By Joshua Rose. M. E. 
Illustrated by 422 engravings. Revised. 358 pp. . . $6.00 

ROSE.— Steam Boilers: 
A Practical Treatise on Boiler Construction and Examination, for the 
Use of Practical Boiler Makers, Boiler Users, and Inspectors; and 
embracing in plain figures all the calculations necessary in Designing 
or Classifying Steam Boilers. By JOshua Rose, M. E. Illustrated 
by 73 engravings. 250 pages. 8vo. ... . . $2,150 

SCHRIBER.— The Complete Carriage and Wagon Painter: 
A Concise Compendium of the Art of Painting Carriages, Wagons, 
and Sleighs, embracing Full Directions in all the Various Branches, 
including Lettering, Scrolling, v>man!enting, Striping, Varnishing, 
and Coloring, with numerous Recipes for Mixing Color*. 73 Illus- 
trations. 177 pp. i2mo $i-or 



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